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Campervan Road Trips: Freedom and Adventure in New Zealand
Ah! New Zealand, the ultimate road trip destination. If you've been dreaming of trying out a campervan adventure, it's definitely one of the best places in the world to take the plunge. With its diverse landscapes—white sand beaches, volcanoes, glaciers, fjords, and glacial lakes—the country also boasts top-notch infrastructure for campers, making it ideal for campervan circuits, even for beginners!
Why is New Zealand the perfect country for your first campervan trip?
Safe and Scenic Roads
New Zealand offers a well-maintained road network, usually not too busy outside major cities. This is a huge plus if you're new to driving a campervan. The routes often feature spectacular viewpoints. You'll also find a vast network of campgrounds, and while freedom camping is regulated, there are still plenty of spots where you can sleep for free. Speed limits are reasonable, and the driving culture is pretty relaxed.

Adapted Infrastructure
There are plenty of campervan rental companies offering different models, from converted vans to large family motorhomes. You'll find rental depots in major cities (Auckland, Christchurch, Queenstown), along with shuttle services between the airport and the depot. Campgrounds in New Zealand, whether private or managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), are easy to find and well-marked. Plus, since New Zealand is a country of campers, you'll often get helpful tips from the locals.
Diverse and Accessible Landscapes
Beaches, volcanoes, deep fjords, or subtropical forests—you can experience a completely different setting in just a few hours of driving. No need to be a 4x4 expert: most roads leading to these stunning sites are campervan-friendly. This variety of landscapes, combined with easy access, makes New Zealand a top choice for a first road trip experience.

The Most Beautiful Places to Discover in a Campervan
To give you an idea, here’s a selection of must-see spots to inspire your next adventure.
1. The Coromandel Peninsula (North Island)
Just a few hours from Auckland, the Coromandel Peninsula is famous for its white sand beaches, hot springs, and lush vegetation. Hot Water Beach is a must-visit—dig your own "thermal bath" on the shore at low tide. You’ll easily find campgrounds by the ocean, perfect for your first taste of campervan life.
2. Rotorua and the Geothermal Wonders (North Island)
A little further south, Rotorua is the geothermal heart of New Zealand. Geysers, bubbling pools, and sulfur lakes with amazing colors—there’s no shortage of things to do. It’s also a major hub for Māori culture. Take the time to visit a traditional village or watch a haka performance. In the evening, relax at a campground with natural hot pools.
3. Tongariro National Park (North Island)
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this volcanic park is a paradise for hikers, especially with the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Even if you're not an experienced hiker, you can enjoy stunning views from the roads or short marked trails. The campgrounds in the area will immerse you in a postcard-worthy setting.
4. Abel Tasman, Coastal Gem (South Island)
After taking the ferry from Wellington to Picton, head to Abel Tasman National Park. Its golden beaches, crystal-clear waters, and coastal trails are perfect for unwinding. One of the perks of a campervan is exploring at your own pace, choosing spots near the beaches or deeper in the forest.

5. Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks (South Island)
As you drive along the West Coast’s thick rainforests and wild beaches, stop at Punakaiki to see the Pancake Rocks—surprising rock formations that look like stacks of pancakes. A marked trail runs along the coast, letting you watch waves crash into the "blowholes" (marine geysers). Spending the night at a seaside campground, lulled by the sound of waves, is an experience not to be missed.
6. The Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers (South Island)
Further south, the glacier region is a must for lovers of breathtaking landscapes. You can admire the icy giants from a distance on an easy trail or take a helicopter to fly over them—or even walk on them. The campgrounds in Franz Josef or Fox Glacier let you wake up in an alpine atmosphere, contrasting with the lush vegetation around you.
7. Queenstown and Wanaka (South Island)
Queenstown, on the shore of a sparkling lake surrounded by majestic peaks, is known as the adventure capital: bungee jumping, paragliding, rafting—anything’s possible. If you prefer a quieter vibe, Wanaka is just as charming, with its beautiful lake and accessible walks. The road between these two towns is stunning, with plenty of perfect spots for a picnic stop.
8. Te Anau and Milford Sound (South Island)
New Zealand’s fjords are world-famous. Te Anau is the gateway to exploring Milford Sound or, for something wilder, Doubtful Sound. A cruise through these deep fjords, surrounded by towering cliffs, is one of the highlights of any trip to New Zealand. Staying overnight in a campervan in Te Anau saves you a long round trip in a day and lets you set off at dawn for more adventures.
9. Lake Tekapo and Mount Cook (South Island)
In the heart of the Southern Alps, Lake Tekapo charms with its unique turquoise color and its picturesque church by the water. The area is known for its starry skies (it’s an International Dark Sky Reserve). Mount Cook, the country’s highest peak, stands majestically in the background. Several campgrounds offer views of these mountains.
Practical Tips for a Successful Campervan Road Trip
Where to start? Between choosing the right vehicle, the best time to go, parking rules, and tips for where to sleep, here are our practical tips to plan your road trip stress-free.
Duration and Itinerary Choices
Less than 15 days: Focus on one island to avoid spending too much time on the road.
More than 15 days: Consider a North-South combo with a one-way trip (e.g., Auckland to Christchurch).
Book Early
In peak season (November to March), demand is high, especially for family-sized vehicles. Book your campervan ideally 6 to 8 months in advance.
Opt for full insurance to avoid high excess fees and hassles in case of issues. Standard bank insurance rarely covers campervans.
Choosing the Right Vehicle
Watch out for campervans over 3 years old—they can be "tired" in terms of both equipment and driving. If your budget allows, go for a newer model for better reliability and comfort.
Check the depot’s opening hours for pick-up. If you arrive late or after a long trip, it’s better to spend the first night in accommodation rather than driving straight away.
Where to Spend the Night
Freedom camping: Allowed in some remote areas but heavily regulated. Fines for breaking the rules can reach $200. Use comprehensive apps to identify legal spots and avoid penalties!
Basic campsites / DOC: Basic facilities but often in idyllic settings. These are campgrounds managed by the Department of Conservation, perfect for getting close to nature.
Private campgrounds: More expensive but offer hot showers, electricity, playgrounds for kids, pools, and laundry. Ideal for recharging—both your campervan’s batteries and your own.
Respect Nature
New Zealand is known for its pristine landscapes. Manage your waste, use designated dumping areas, and follow local signage. New Zealanders care deeply about keeping their environment clean and warmly welcome responsible tourists. For support, consider a local French-speaking agency like Frogs, which can help with administrative steps, planning your itinerary, and of course, renting a campervan.
Why is New Zealand the perfect country for your first campervan trip?
Safe and Scenic Roads
New Zealand offers a well-maintained road network, usually not too busy outside major cities. This is a huge plus if you're new to driving a campervan. The routes often feature spectacular viewpoints. You'll also find a vast network of campgrounds, and while freedom camping is regulated, there are still plenty of spots where you can sleep for free. Speed limits are reasonable, and the driving culture is pretty relaxed.

Adapted Infrastructure
There are plenty of campervan rental companies offering different models, from converted vans to large family motorhomes. You'll find rental depots in major cities (Auckland, Christchurch, Queenstown), along with shuttle services between the airport and the depot. Campgrounds in New Zealand, whether private or managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), are easy to find and well-marked. Plus, since New Zealand is a country of campers, you'll often get helpful tips from the locals.
Diverse and Accessible Landscapes
Beaches, volcanoes, deep fjords, or subtropical forests—you can experience a completely different setting in just a few hours of driving. No need to be a 4x4 expert: most roads leading to these stunning sites are campervan-friendly. This variety of landscapes, combined with easy access, makes New Zealand a top choice for a first road trip experience.

The Most Beautiful Places to Discover in a Campervan
To give you an idea, here’s a selection of must-see spots to inspire your next adventure.
1. The Coromandel Peninsula (North Island)
Just a few hours from Auckland, the Coromandel Peninsula is famous for its white sand beaches, hot springs, and lush vegetation. Hot Water Beach is a must-visit—dig your own "thermal bath" on the shore at low tide. You’ll easily find campgrounds by the ocean, perfect for your first taste of campervan life.
2. Rotorua and the Geothermal Wonders (North Island)
A little further south, Rotorua is the geothermal heart of New Zealand. Geysers, bubbling pools, and sulfur lakes with amazing colors—there’s no shortage of things to do. It’s also a major hub for Māori culture. Take the time to visit a traditional village or watch a haka performance. In the evening, relax at a campground with natural hot pools.
3. Tongariro National Park (North Island)
A UNESCO World Heritage site, this volcanic park is a paradise for hikers, especially with the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Even if you're not an experienced hiker, you can enjoy stunning views from the roads or short marked trails. The campgrounds in the area will immerse you in a postcard-worthy setting.
4. Abel Tasman, Coastal Gem (South Island)
After taking the ferry from Wellington to Picton, head to Abel Tasman National Park. Its golden beaches, crystal-clear waters, and coastal trails are perfect for unwinding. One of the perks of a campervan is exploring at your own pace, choosing spots near the beaches or deeper in the forest.

5. Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks (South Island)
As you drive along the West Coast’s thick rainforests and wild beaches, stop at Punakaiki to see the Pancake Rocks—surprising rock formations that look like stacks of pancakes. A marked trail runs along the coast, letting you watch waves crash into the "blowholes" (marine geysers). Spending the night at a seaside campground, lulled by the sound of waves, is an experience not to be missed.
6. The Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers (South Island)
Further south, the glacier region is a must for lovers of breathtaking landscapes. You can admire the icy giants from a distance on an easy trail or take a helicopter to fly over them—or even walk on them. The campgrounds in Franz Josef or Fox Glacier let you wake up in an alpine atmosphere, contrasting with the lush vegetation around you.
7. Queenstown and Wanaka (South Island)
Queenstown, on the shore of a sparkling lake surrounded by majestic peaks, is known as the adventure capital: bungee jumping, paragliding, rafting—anything’s possible. If you prefer a quieter vibe, Wanaka is just as charming, with its beautiful lake and accessible walks. The road between these two towns is stunning, with plenty of perfect spots for a picnic stop.
8. Te Anau and Milford Sound (South Island)
New Zealand’s fjords are world-famous. Te Anau is the gateway to exploring Milford Sound or, for something wilder, Doubtful Sound. A cruise through these deep fjords, surrounded by towering cliffs, is one of the highlights of any trip to New Zealand. Staying overnight in a campervan in Te Anau saves you a long round trip in a day and lets you set off at dawn for more adventures.
9. Lake Tekapo and Mount Cook (South Island)
In the heart of the Southern Alps, Lake Tekapo charms with its unique turquoise color and its picturesque church by the water. The area is known for its starry skies (it’s an International Dark Sky Reserve). Mount Cook, the country’s highest peak, stands majestically in the background. Several campgrounds offer views of these mountains.

Practical Tips for a Successful Campervan Road Trip
Where to start? Between choosing the right vehicle, the best time to go, parking rules, and tips for where to sleep, here are our practical tips to plan your road trip stress-free.
Duration and Itinerary Choices
Less than 15 days: Focus on one island to avoid spending too much time on the road.
More than 15 days: Consider a North-South combo with a one-way trip (e.g., Auckland to Christchurch).
Book Early
In peak season (November to March), demand is high, especially for family-sized vehicles. Book your campervan ideally 6 to 8 months in advance.
Opt for full insurance to avoid high excess fees and hassles in case of issues. Standard bank insurance rarely covers campervans.
Choosing the Right Vehicle
Watch out for campervans over 3 years old—they can be "tired" in terms of both equipment and driving. If your budget allows, go for a newer model for better reliability and comfort.
Check the depot’s opening hours for pick-up. If you arrive late or after a long trip, it’s better to spend the first night in accommodation rather than driving straight away.
Where to Spend the Night
Freedom camping: Allowed in some remote areas but heavily regulated. Fines for breaking the rules can reach $200. Use comprehensive apps to identify legal spots and avoid penalties!
Basic campsites / DOC: Basic facilities but often in idyllic settings. These are campgrounds managed by the Department of Conservation, perfect for getting close to nature.
Private campgrounds: More expensive but offer hot showers, electricity, playgrounds for kids, pools, and laundry. Ideal for recharging—both your campervan’s batteries and your own.
Respect Nature
New Zealand is known for its pristine landscapes. Manage your waste, use designated dumping areas, and follow local signage. New Zealanders care deeply about keeping their environment clean and warmly welcome responsible tourists. For support, consider a local French-speaking agency like Frogs, which can help with administrative steps, planning your itinerary, and of course, renting a campervan.
Phongsaly or Luang Namtha for an authentic trek with a child?
Hello, We’re heading to Laos in December 2025, and we want to do a multi-day trek—maybe even a week—to really take our time and make stops in villages since we’ll have our 3-year-old daughter with us.
We’re torn between the Luang Namtha region or Phongsaly for our big trek. We’re looking for the least touristy spot possible, we love mountains, so we’d like an area with varied landscapes, including rice paddies, and a chance to really connect with local ethnic groups. We’re after authenticity and only want to stay with locals. Which of the two should we prioritize? Any advice would be welcome to help us decide—it’s tough when you don’t know the area! Maybe there are other spots in the north worth considering for a beautiful week-long trek.
Thanks, fellow travelers
We’re torn between the Luang Namtha region or Phongsaly for our big trek. We’re looking for the least touristy spot possible, we love mountains, so we’d like an area with varied landscapes, including rice paddies, and a chance to really connect with local ethnic groups. We’re after authenticity and only want to stay with locals. Which of the two should we prioritize? Any advice would be welcome to help us decide—it’s tough when you don’t know the area! Maybe there are other spots in the north worth considering for a beautiful week-long trek.
Thanks, fellow travelers
On the Derisive Thread (Episode 1)
Dear members of this forum,
*With the pandemic, travel guides were replaced by cookbooks. With lockdown, there’s no need for the *Guía del Trotamundos*—the cookbook is gospel, and your daily life turns into a *Spaghetti Western*. It’s no longer about good and bad actors but good and bad fats. And for a few extra pinches of salt. To the tune of Ennio Morricone, it’s hard to diagnose pastalogy—sorry, the pathology—you’re suffering from. Italy, now confined, and pasta—no more aimless gondola rides on Venice’s canals or *Dolce Vita* weekends in Rome. The beauty of the soul blends with minestrone preparation.
*With the pandemic, Professor Didier Raoult became the new Christ-like figure; like the Indira Gandhi of medicine, like Moses showing the way to the people across the Dead Sea, for tormented souls, the value of a medical prescription doesn’t wait for the years to pass. And plexiglass reigned over the world.
*With the pandemic and gender theory, in particular, pushing us to become androgynous, hermaphroditic beings—*patatras*—the Colossi of Rhodes we are waver because of a tiny nuisance.
*Phew, the pandemic has receded... but watch out for a new swine flu pandemic, because on this forum, it’ll be followed by long-winded rants. Political/historical revisionism with such a pandemic—Fidel Castro wouldn’t have been able to invade the *Bahía de los Cochinos*. And that’s where his comrade Ernesto *Che* Guevara becomes a perfect scam. A fierce opponent of capitalist ideology, yet many clothing sellers got rich selling T-shirts with his face on them.
*Neutrality and the Helvetic underground. Last summer, I found myself passing the *Chalet Gaillard* deep in the *Forêt du Risoux* in the Jura, then crossing the border into the Canton of Vaud on foot. My disappointment was great: no sign indicating we were in neutral territory. And what kind of neutrality are we talking about? Since neutrality is an abstract concept. It’s like those visitors eager to see Calais who, spotting the sign for the *Pas-de-Calais* department, turn around on the road.
*There’s always a traveler quick to recommend a local guide. I know an excellent guide named Michel who lives in Cairo—Michel of Cairo. He has a truck and takes you to see the pharaoh’s ruins by truck. Still, be careful—good guides aren’t that common, because there are only eight Cairenes.
*The mix between large mammals and humans. Or how infantilism rules the world. The ultimate quest for happiness is petting rhinos in Nepal—we’ll confirm if this kind of animal is visible on the streets of Sauraha, a town near Chitwan National Park. The downside of this animal? It takes up too much space as a pet—better to raise a Yorkshire terrier in your modest apartment.
*I’m tired of recurring topics like, *‘Do I have time for my connection at New York airport?’* Aren’t you? There’s the discussion about *Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*—*Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*, God bless you. In the name of the Father, the taxman, and the Holy Spirit, don’t miss your connection. *Gare de Lyon-Part-Dieu*—apparently, a great French actor, Gérard de Part-Dieu, was born there. If you think you’ll miss your connection, just get rich and fly private. The working masses of the *lumpenproletariat*—they dare everything, that’s how you recognize them.
*Experts in non-events: learning that some members don’t like Spanish-speaking countries because, supposedly, the people are too loud. That’s it, I’m not going to China anymore—too many stairs on the Great Wall. So, too bad, I’m not going. It’s like two people crossing paths—one asks, *‘Going fishing?’* and the other says no. These experts are probably natives of Arles, because with people like that, it’s *l’Arlésienne*...
*The art of taking selfies at every turn. You’d think it’s an ancient practice, almost an anthropological ritual—everything suggests it dates back to prehistoric times. Back in the days of the Lascaux caves, instead of photographing the meal they were about to eat (it’s crazy how many food photos we see on this forum, especially in travel journals), prehistoric men and women could only make cave paintings. From there, it’s only a small step to conclude that cave art was nothing more than the menu served in caves that doubled as *Buffalo Grills* long before the chain existed. By the way, if you want to visit the caves, ask for a guide named Josiane. When it comes to parietal art skills, Josiane beats Lascaux... (Only the French on this forum will get that one.)
*Mythology of an object: the suitcase (a nod to Mr. Éric Libiot, whose columns I enjoy) An object that gets lost during a flight, especially during a transfer at an airport. And it’s stuffed to the brim with clothes and other useless items, like Mickey Mouse slippers. You’re in despair: when going through customs, the officers find those slightly risqué photos hidden in your laundry, taken at Cap d’Agde on a naturist beach. The suitcase is an object that makes noise when rolling because of its wheels—you’re quickly spotted.
*Hurry up and visit New York while you still can. Because of *Woke* ideology, more and more statues are being torn down, and the Statue of Liberty will likely meet the same fate. *Queer* culture isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
*The Dead Poets Society I admired the beautiful photos of Venice, and *click*—I check the new discussions when I come across one where Mr. J.M.B. offers money loans. This person probably works at the Ministry of Finance and risks loosening the purse strings of your wallets.
*Toward the independence of New Caledonia: will we call it *Nouvelle Nouvelle-Calédonie*? From what I know, Chinese authorities want to settle there and invest; apparently, they want to send (fake) tourists—facsimiles of real travelers. So, it’ll be hard to separate the wheat from the chaff (the *ivraie* tourists).
*There’s a topic about hitchhiking in Scotland: apparently, Scots are very welcoming people. I imagine arriving at Aberdeen Airport to a typical welcoming committee—men in kilts and a bagpiper playing. Just like arriving in Papeete, where you’re greeted with flower leis—*Aloha! (Jacta Est)*. To attract tourists, Scottish cities will end up installing whisky vending machines.
*Eskimo pies banned for sale because of *cancel culture*—you can’t go to Iqaluit anymore. Panicked, ice cream manufacturers had to revise their *packaging*—sorry for the anglicism. Because of *cancel culture*, we can no longer say *Eskimo* without it being pejorative. The identity of the Arctic people of the same name takes a hit—it’s crazy how *bien-pensance* wreaks havoc in our minds... We can’t even bite into a chocolate *Eskimo* pie anymore.
*Diplomatic tensions between France and Australia: and there goes the submarine sale project, canceled. Given that the cost of these machines is a fifth of Australia’s public finances budget, it’s tough to pay in didgeridoos and kangaroo skins.
Thanks for reading, and see you soon for more chronicles.
*With the pandemic, travel guides were replaced by cookbooks. With lockdown, there’s no need for the *Guía del Trotamundos*—the cookbook is gospel, and your daily life turns into a *Spaghetti Western*. It’s no longer about good and bad actors but good and bad fats. And for a few extra pinches of salt. To the tune of Ennio Morricone, it’s hard to diagnose pastalogy—sorry, the pathology—you’re suffering from. Italy, now confined, and pasta—no more aimless gondola rides on Venice’s canals or *Dolce Vita* weekends in Rome. The beauty of the soul blends with minestrone preparation.
*With the pandemic, Professor Didier Raoult became the new Christ-like figure; like the Indira Gandhi of medicine, like Moses showing the way to the people across the Dead Sea, for tormented souls, the value of a medical prescription doesn’t wait for the years to pass. And plexiglass reigned over the world.
*With the pandemic and gender theory, in particular, pushing us to become androgynous, hermaphroditic beings—*patatras*—the Colossi of Rhodes we are waver because of a tiny nuisance.
*Phew, the pandemic has receded... but watch out for a new swine flu pandemic, because on this forum, it’ll be followed by long-winded rants. Political/historical revisionism with such a pandemic—Fidel Castro wouldn’t have been able to invade the *Bahía de los Cochinos*. And that’s where his comrade Ernesto *Che* Guevara becomes a perfect scam. A fierce opponent of capitalist ideology, yet many clothing sellers got rich selling T-shirts with his face on them.
*Neutrality and the Helvetic underground. Last summer, I found myself passing the *Chalet Gaillard* deep in the *Forêt du Risoux* in the Jura, then crossing the border into the Canton of Vaud on foot. My disappointment was great: no sign indicating we were in neutral territory. And what kind of neutrality are we talking about? Since neutrality is an abstract concept. It’s like those visitors eager to see Calais who, spotting the sign for the *Pas-de-Calais* department, turn around on the road.
*There’s always a traveler quick to recommend a local guide. I know an excellent guide named Michel who lives in Cairo—Michel of Cairo. He has a truck and takes you to see the pharaoh’s ruins by truck. Still, be careful—good guides aren’t that common, because there are only eight Cairenes.
*The mix between large mammals and humans. Or how infantilism rules the world. The ultimate quest for happiness is petting rhinos in Nepal—we’ll confirm if this kind of animal is visible on the streets of Sauraha, a town near Chitwan National Park. The downside of this animal? It takes up too much space as a pet—better to raise a Yorkshire terrier in your modest apartment.
*I’m tired of recurring topics like, *‘Do I have time for my connection at New York airport?’* Aren’t you? There’s the discussion about *Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*—*Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*, God bless you. In the name of the Father, the taxman, and the Holy Spirit, don’t miss your connection. *Gare de Lyon-Part-Dieu*—apparently, a great French actor, Gérard de Part-Dieu, was born there. If you think you’ll miss your connection, just get rich and fly private. The working masses of the *lumpenproletariat*—they dare everything, that’s how you recognize them.
*Experts in non-events: learning that some members don’t like Spanish-speaking countries because, supposedly, the people are too loud. That’s it, I’m not going to China anymore—too many stairs on the Great Wall. So, too bad, I’m not going. It’s like two people crossing paths—one asks, *‘Going fishing?’* and the other says no. These experts are probably natives of Arles, because with people like that, it’s *l’Arlésienne*...
*The art of taking selfies at every turn. You’d think it’s an ancient practice, almost an anthropological ritual—everything suggests it dates back to prehistoric times. Back in the days of the Lascaux caves, instead of photographing the meal they were about to eat (it’s crazy how many food photos we see on this forum, especially in travel journals), prehistoric men and women could only make cave paintings. From there, it’s only a small step to conclude that cave art was nothing more than the menu served in caves that doubled as *Buffalo Grills* long before the chain existed. By the way, if you want to visit the caves, ask for a guide named Josiane. When it comes to parietal art skills, Josiane beats Lascaux... (Only the French on this forum will get that one.)
*Mythology of an object: the suitcase (a nod to Mr. Éric Libiot, whose columns I enjoy) An object that gets lost during a flight, especially during a transfer at an airport. And it’s stuffed to the brim with clothes and other useless items, like Mickey Mouse slippers. You’re in despair: when going through customs, the officers find those slightly risqué photos hidden in your laundry, taken at Cap d’Agde on a naturist beach. The suitcase is an object that makes noise when rolling because of its wheels—you’re quickly spotted.
*Hurry up and visit New York while you still can. Because of *Woke* ideology, more and more statues are being torn down, and the Statue of Liberty will likely meet the same fate. *Queer* culture isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
*The Dead Poets Society I admired the beautiful photos of Venice, and *click*—I check the new discussions when I come across one where Mr. J.M.B. offers money loans. This person probably works at the Ministry of Finance and risks loosening the purse strings of your wallets.
*Toward the independence of New Caledonia: will we call it *Nouvelle Nouvelle-Calédonie*? From what I know, Chinese authorities want to settle there and invest; apparently, they want to send (fake) tourists—facsimiles of real travelers. So, it’ll be hard to separate the wheat from the chaff (the *ivraie* tourists).
*There’s a topic about hitchhiking in Scotland: apparently, Scots are very welcoming people. I imagine arriving at Aberdeen Airport to a typical welcoming committee—men in kilts and a bagpiper playing. Just like arriving in Papeete, where you’re greeted with flower leis—*Aloha! (Jacta Est)*. To attract tourists, Scottish cities will end up installing whisky vending machines.
*Eskimo pies banned for sale because of *cancel culture*—you can’t go to Iqaluit anymore. Panicked, ice cream manufacturers had to revise their *packaging*—sorry for the anglicism. Because of *cancel culture*, we can no longer say *Eskimo* without it being pejorative. The identity of the Arctic people of the same name takes a hit—it’s crazy how *bien-pensance* wreaks havoc in our minds... We can’t even bite into a chocolate *Eskimo* pie anymore.
*Diplomatic tensions between France and Australia: and there goes the submarine sale project, canceled. Given that the cost of these machines is a fifth of Australia’s public finances budget, it’s tough to pay in didgeridoos and kangaroo skins.
Thanks for reading, and see you soon for more chronicles.
Chiang Rai to Pai road in April
Hi there,
As we’re putting the finishing touches on our travel journal, we could really use your help, please.
We’re heading to Thailand in three weeks and will be in Chiang Rai right during the burning season...
Will the stunning road between Chiang Rai and Pai still be beautiful?
Are the landscapes green like we’d expect at this time of year, or are they dry with gray and brown mountains due to the drought?
We were planning to rent a car, but that’s a lot of time we could spend elsewhere if it’s not worth it!
Thanks for your help.
One-month trip to Nicaragua – feedback
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
3-week Panama itinerary plan for summer
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Panama in the summer of 2026 (2 adults and 2 kids, ages 9 and 6).
Here’s my first draft for the itinerary. Could you give me some advice, please?
Day 1: Panama City + night 1 Day 2: Departure for the San Blas Islands (I don’t have a transfer company yet and I’m hesitant to drive there myself in an SUV) + 1 or 2 nights depending on the price Day 3 (or 4): Return to Panama City + departure for Isla Grande (maybe too much in one day, so maybe an extra night in Panama City and leave the next day for Isla Grande) For Isla Grande, should I go through Portobelo? Day 3 or 4: Isla Grande + night Day 4 or 5: From Isla Grande to Lake Gatun for an Embera immersion (I haven’t checked the travel time yet) + night Day 5 or 6: Departure from Lake Gatun to El Valle de Antón + 2 or 3 nights Day 7 or max Day 9: Head to the Gulf of Chiriquí and Boca Chica + 2 or 3 nights? Day 9 or max Day 12: Boquete + 2 nights Day 11 or 14: Bocas del Toro (one of the surrounding islands) + 2 nights Day 13 or 16: Return to Panama City by plane the day before the international flight. I don’t have all 21 nights planned yet, but there are still some details to work out with your help ;)
Also, is it possible to rent a car in Panama City and drop it off at the Bocas del Toro airport? (I think so...) Finally, what are the steps for driving back from Bocas del Toro to Panama City (to avoid the domestic flight)?
Thanks in advance!
I’m planning a trip to Panama in the summer of 2026 (2 adults and 2 kids, ages 9 and 6).
Here’s my first draft for the itinerary. Could you give me some advice, please?
Day 1: Panama City + night 1 Day 2: Departure for the San Blas Islands (I don’t have a transfer company yet and I’m hesitant to drive there myself in an SUV) + 1 or 2 nights depending on the price Day 3 (or 4): Return to Panama City + departure for Isla Grande (maybe too much in one day, so maybe an extra night in Panama City and leave the next day for Isla Grande) For Isla Grande, should I go through Portobelo? Day 3 or 4: Isla Grande + night Day 4 or 5: From Isla Grande to Lake Gatun for an Embera immersion (I haven’t checked the travel time yet) + night Day 5 or 6: Departure from Lake Gatun to El Valle de Antón + 2 or 3 nights Day 7 or max Day 9: Head to the Gulf of Chiriquí and Boca Chica + 2 or 3 nights? Day 9 or max Day 12: Boquete + 2 nights Day 11 or 14: Bocas del Toro (one of the surrounding islands) + 2 nights Day 13 or 16: Return to Panama City by plane the day before the international flight. I don’t have all 21 nights planned yet, but there are still some details to work out with your help ;)
Also, is it possible to rent a car in Panama City and drop it off at the Bocas del Toro airport? (I think so...) Finally, what are the steps for driving back from Bocas del Toro to Panama City (to avoid the domestic flight)?
Thanks in advance!
Where to stay between Tarifa and Cadiz for hiking along the beaches?
Hi there!
We’re heading to Andalusia for a week in early April. We’ll spend 3 days in Seville and 1 day in Córdoba. After that, we’d like to rent a car for the remaining 3 days to explore the Costa de la Luz.
We’d love to do some great hikes along the beaches between Tarifa and Cadiz and visit Cadiz itself. Is 3 full days enough to do this? Is it better to stay in Cadiz and explore the area from there, or should we move around to different villages? Do you have any hiking suggestions? We’ve spotted some hikes in Barbate, Trafalgar Beach, and Bolonia.
Thanks for your tips and hiking ideas! :-)
We’d love to do some great hikes along the beaches between Tarifa and Cadiz and visit Cadiz itself. Is 3 full days enough to do this? Is it better to stay in Cadiz and explore the area from there, or should we move around to different villages? Do you have any hiking suggestions? We’ve spotted some hikes in Barbate, Trafalgar Beach, and Bolonia.
Thanks for your tips and hiking ideas! :-)
Sumatra Questions: Domestic Flights and Route Direction
Hi there,
After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore.
We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore.
Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh.
Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄.
My questions:
- Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)?
- Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer?
Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊
Two Quebecers Attempting Mount Meru
In 2015, for my 50th birthday, my daughter and I went to Kenya and Tanzania for a safari. Ten years later, for my 60th, a new African adventure: returning to Tanzania, this time to attempt the ascent of Mount Meru.
After watching documentaries and films about Everest climbers, I’ve always been drawn to the idea of experiencing something like that. I’m impressed by those who risk their lives just to chase their dreams and push their limits (my partner would say they’re crazy). I’ve never pretended I could climb the roof of the world. My sights were set on Kilimanjaro instead. But when my daughter planned our adventure, she lowered my ambitions by a few meters by choosing Meru—and I get it. We’re both very active, but we’re not seasoned athletes. And our mountains in Quebec, as beautiful as they are, don’t offer the chance to climb very high to test our endurance against the lack of oxygen.
So, to prepare physically, I worked my 60-year-old legs daily by walking and climbing small hills near home. As for altitude sickness, I’ll have to trust my system and my old lungs, but it still stresses me out. The departure is approaching, and there’s no turning back—I tell myself that at worst, I’ll have tried.
February 2nd, departure day. We leave Montreal on an Air France flight as scheduled. Luckily, because we were worried, our flight times were delayed, and our layover at CDG will be tight. After a 6.5-hour flight to Paris, no messing around—we have just enough time to sit for about thirty minutes before boarding another 8.5-hour flight to Zanzibar, still with Air France. In Zanzibar, we stay on the plane while pale-faced passengers disembark, replaced by sun-kissed travelers (it’s sunny and warm in Zanzibar). We then take a short flight to Kilimanjaro Airport, our final destination. Exhausted but happy to step off the big metal bird, a driver from the agency we chose (Soaring Flamingo) waits to take us to our hotel, the Tulia in Arusha. It’s 2 AM when we finally collapse onto the mattress. Tomorrow, we’ll spend the day recovering from the sleepless flight, relaxing by a murky pool in a beautiful flower-filled courtyard, surrounded by palm trees and the everyday sounds of Africa. At that moment, I feel privileged to share this experience with my daughter, and I think about the mountain that awaits us.
To be continued...
After watching documentaries and films about Everest climbers, I’ve always been drawn to the idea of experiencing something like that. I’m impressed by those who risk their lives just to chase their dreams and push their limits (my partner would say they’re crazy). I’ve never pretended I could climb the roof of the world. My sights were set on Kilimanjaro instead. But when my daughter planned our adventure, she lowered my ambitions by a few meters by choosing Meru—and I get it. We’re both very active, but we’re not seasoned athletes. And our mountains in Quebec, as beautiful as they are, don’t offer the chance to climb very high to test our endurance against the lack of oxygen.
So, to prepare physically, I worked my 60-year-old legs daily by walking and climbing small hills near home. As for altitude sickness, I’ll have to trust my system and my old lungs, but it still stresses me out. The departure is approaching, and there’s no turning back—I tell myself that at worst, I’ll have tried.
February 2nd, departure day. We leave Montreal on an Air France flight as scheduled. Luckily, because we were worried, our flight times were delayed, and our layover at CDG will be tight. After a 6.5-hour flight to Paris, no messing around—we have just enough time to sit for about thirty minutes before boarding another 8.5-hour flight to Zanzibar, still with Air France. In Zanzibar, we stay on the plane while pale-faced passengers disembark, replaced by sun-kissed travelers (it’s sunny and warm in Zanzibar). We then take a short flight to Kilimanjaro Airport, our final destination. Exhausted but happy to step off the big metal bird, a driver from the agency we chose (Soaring Flamingo) waits to take us to our hotel, the Tulia in Arusha. It’s 2 AM when we finally collapse onto the mattress. Tomorrow, we’ll spend the day recovering from the sleepless flight, relaxing by a murky pool in a beautiful flower-filled courtyard, surrounded by palm trees and the everyday sounds of Africa. At that moment, I feel privileged to share this experience with my daughter, and I think about the mountain that awaits us.
To be continued...
Have you considered Reunion Island as a destination?
Reunion Island, a French island located in the Indian Ocean, is characterized by remarkable geographical and cultural diversity. This island offers an immersive experience that harmoniously blends wild nature and human heritage, between active volcanoes, mountainous cirques, impressive waterfalls, and charming villages. This report explores the must-see spots, from the lunar landscapes of Piton de la Fournaise to the mountainous trails of the Mafate cirque, not forgetting the natural pools and tropical gardens. Each section highlights a distinct aspect of this vibrant island, supported by geological and historical information, as well as accounts from those who have visited.
Piton de la Fournaise, which reaches a height of 2,632 meters, is one of the most active volcanoes on our planet. Its frequent eruptions constantly shape the landscape, offering a natural spectacle where burning lava meets the ocean. The trail leading to the Dolomieu crater, though difficult to access, is open to hikers and rewards them with a panorama of vast expanses of solidified lava and volcanic gas emissions. It’s usually best to visit at this time of day to avoid clouds and enjoy the low light that enhances the lunar reliefs.
Volcanic activity has also given rise to unique structures, such as the lava tunnels of Grand Brûlé, where tourists can walk along cooled lava flows. For geology enthusiasts, the site of Cassé de la Rivière de l'Est reveals incredible basaltic organ pipes, testifying to ancient eruptions.
Despite its inactivity, Piton des Neiges (3,071 m) remains the island’s highest peak. Its ascent, via the GR R2 trail, passes through virgin forests before reaching rocky landscapes where sunrise offers a 360° panoramic view of the three cirques. This extinct volcano symbolizes Reunion Island’s geological history, characterized by successive collapses that gave birth to the surrounding cirques.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Salazie cirque charms with its lush greenery and hamlets clinging to cliffs. Hell-Bourg, listed among France’s most beautiful villages, delights with its brightly colored Creole houses and picturesque cobblestone streets. The trek to Voile de la Mariée, a famous waterfall, winds through bamboo groves and natural pools perfect for a swim.
Mafate, a preserved haven of tranquility, is accessible only on foot or by helicopter. Places like La Nouvelle or Marla, small villages called "îlets," offer a glimpse into traditional life on Reunion Island. The GR R1 trail, which circles Piton des Neiges, immerses hikers in breathtaking landscapes, alternating between rocky ridges and narrow valleys.
Known for its lentils and wines, Cilaos combines culinary delights with stunning scenery. The healing properties of the thermal springs at Bras-Rouge are highlighted by the trails leading to them, which also offer panoramas like the Col du Taïbit, a privileged access point to Mafate.
This unique spot features pebble beaches, waterfalls by the sea, and a palm forest. Picnickers enjoy its peaceful atmosphere, while local fishermen maintain ancient traditions. Nearby, the Garden of Perfumes and Spices cultivates vanilla, cloves, and turmeric, offering an olfactory experience at the heart of Reunionese agriculture.
Bassin Boeuf, famous for its turquoise waters, is a popular swimming spot, framed by volcanic formations. Further south, the Langevin River creates a series of waterfalls and natural pools, including the famous Trou de Fer, a 300-meter-deep canyon where water cascades in a shimmering curtain.
The island’s capital blends colonial heritage with modernity. The Léon Dierx Museum showcases modern art, while the Grand Marché draws visitors with its spices and local crafts. The Barachois promenade, along the sea, evokes the city’s maritime past with its 18th-century cannons.
The Domaine de Villèle, once a colonial plantation, now houses a museum dedicated to the history of slavery and a geranium distillery. The Chapelle Pointue, with its neo-Gothic style, offers a striking contrast to the brightly colored Tamil temples surrounding it.
The GR R1 and R2 trails are popular with experienced hikers, but more accessible routes like the Piton Maido (2,200 m) are suitable for beginners. The latter offers an unparalleled view of the Mafate cirque at dawn.
The coast of Saint-Gilles offers activities like diving, surfing, and paddleboarding, while ULM flights provide an impressive aerial view of Piton de la Fournaise.
Reunion Island presents itself as a microcosm where every landscape tells a story—geological, cultural, or human. Between the fury of volcanoes and the calm of cirques, between the bustle of markets and the tranquility of natural pools, this destination offers a diverse experience. Travelers are encouraged to mix their activities: morning hikes, cultural visits during the day, and moments of relaxation at dusk. Preserving these wonders relies on responsible tourism, respectful of fragile ecosystems and local communities.
Piton de la Fournaise, which reaches a height of 2,632 meters, is one of the most active volcanoes on our planet. Its frequent eruptions constantly shape the landscape, offering a natural spectacle where burning lava meets the ocean. The trail leading to the Dolomieu crater, though difficult to access, is open to hikers and rewards them with a panorama of vast expanses of solidified lava and volcanic gas emissions. It’s usually best to visit at this time of day to avoid clouds and enjoy the low light that enhances the lunar reliefs.
Volcanic activity has also given rise to unique structures, such as the lava tunnels of Grand Brûlé, where tourists can walk along cooled lava flows. For geology enthusiasts, the site of Cassé de la Rivière de l'Est reveals incredible basaltic organ pipes, testifying to ancient eruptions.
Despite its inactivity, Piton des Neiges (3,071 m) remains the island’s highest peak. Its ascent, via the GR R2 trail, passes through virgin forests before reaching rocky landscapes where sunrise offers a 360° panoramic view of the three cirques. This extinct volcano symbolizes Reunion Island’s geological history, characterized by successive collapses that gave birth to the surrounding cirques.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Salazie cirque charms with its lush greenery and hamlets clinging to cliffs. Hell-Bourg, listed among France’s most beautiful villages, delights with its brightly colored Creole houses and picturesque cobblestone streets. The trek to Voile de la Mariée, a famous waterfall, winds through bamboo groves and natural pools perfect for a swim.
Mafate, a preserved haven of tranquility, is accessible only on foot or by helicopter. Places like La Nouvelle or Marla, small villages called "îlets," offer a glimpse into traditional life on Reunion Island. The GR R1 trail, which circles Piton des Neiges, immerses hikers in breathtaking landscapes, alternating between rocky ridges and narrow valleys.
Known for its lentils and wines, Cilaos combines culinary delights with stunning scenery. The healing properties of the thermal springs at Bras-Rouge are highlighted by the trails leading to them, which also offer panoramas like the Col du Taïbit, a privileged access point to Mafate.
This unique spot features pebble beaches, waterfalls by the sea, and a palm forest. Picnickers enjoy its peaceful atmosphere, while local fishermen maintain ancient traditions. Nearby, the Garden of Perfumes and Spices cultivates vanilla, cloves, and turmeric, offering an olfactory experience at the heart of Reunionese agriculture.
Bassin Boeuf, famous for its turquoise waters, is a popular swimming spot, framed by volcanic formations. Further south, the Langevin River creates a series of waterfalls and natural pools, including the famous Trou de Fer, a 300-meter-deep canyon where water cascades in a shimmering curtain.
The island’s capital blends colonial heritage with modernity. The Léon Dierx Museum showcases modern art, while the Grand Marché draws visitors with its spices and local crafts. The Barachois promenade, along the sea, evokes the city’s maritime past with its 18th-century cannons.
The Domaine de Villèle, once a colonial plantation, now houses a museum dedicated to the history of slavery and a geranium distillery. The Chapelle Pointue, with its neo-Gothic style, offers a striking contrast to the brightly colored Tamil temples surrounding it.
The GR R1 and R2 trails are popular with experienced hikers, but more accessible routes like the Piton Maido (2,200 m) are suitable for beginners. The latter offers an unparalleled view of the Mafate cirque at dawn.
The coast of Saint-Gilles offers activities like diving, surfing, and paddleboarding, while ULM flights provide an impressive aerial view of Piton de la Fournaise.
Reunion Island presents itself as a microcosm where every landscape tells a story—geological, cultural, or human. Between the fury of volcanoes and the calm of cirques, between the bustle of markets and the tranquility of natural pools, this destination offers a diverse experience. Travelers are encouraged to mix their activities: morning hikes, cultural visits during the day, and moments of relaxation at dusk. Preserving these wonders relies on responsible tourism, respectful of fragile ecosystems and local communities.
Feedback on 3-week Argentina itinerary
Hi there,
Could you let me know if this itinerary is doable:
14/09: Arrival in BA at 9:45 PM
15/09 to 16/09: BA
17/09: Flight to Iguazu early in the morning + visit the falls on the Brazilian side
18/09: Visit the falls on the Argentine side
19/09: Flight to Salta + visit Salta
20/09 to 25/09: Northern + Southern Loop in 6 full days (rental car)
26/09 to 28/09: Tolar Grande 3 days (with an agency)
29/09: Flight to Puerto Madryn (arrival in the evening)
30/09: Valdes Peninsula
01/10: Valdes Peninsula + Punta Tombo + overnight bus to Bariloche
02/10 to 07/10: 6 days to see Bariloche and the surrounding area by car (what are the must-sees?)
08/10: Flight to BA
09/10: Flight to Paris at 2:40 PM
Do I need an eco sticker to drive in Germany?
Hi,
We're heading to Germany in August. Finally, after all this time I wanted to go back to Germany :)
I think I need an eco sticker for my car, but I'm not sure.
I found this info:
"Since June 1, 2022, it’s no longer necessary to buy the German eco sticker to drive in Freiburg-im-Breisgau’s Umweltzonen (low-emission zones).
The Crit'Air sticker, rated from 0 to 3, is recognized by the authorities."
Could you tell me the name of the website where I can find this info, please?
We’ll be staying in Brigachtal (Baden-Württemberg). We’ll visit Friedrichshafen, Triberg, and Hohenzollern Castle.
Thanks :)
Thanks :)
Questions about excursions around Marrakech
Hi there,
A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:
- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?
Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !
A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:
- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?
Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !
Quick feedback on our trip to Nepal, Rajasthan, South India, and the Andaman Islands
Our trip through Nepal, Rajasthan, South India, and the Andaman Islands.
Dates: October 26 to January 14, 2025
Departure from Geneva to Kathmandu.
NEPAL, one month. 2 days of exploring between Kathmandu and Patan. 14 days of trekking from Kathmandu to Langtang, passing by sacred lakes. Trek with a French-speaking guide and 2 porters from the local French-speaking tour operator "NEPAL VOYAGE." Ended with a helicopter ride due to a wrist fracture on black ice at 3,900m. 3 days in the hospital in Kathmandu. Continued the trip in Nepal with a self-guided stay in Bhaktapur and Pokhara. Returned to Kathmandu by plane, then flew to Delhi.
RAJASTHAN. 18 days touring Rajasthan with a French-speaking driver "RAVINDRA MENA." Highlights: Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur*, Ranakpur*, Udaipur*, Bundi, Pushkar*, Jaipur, Agra, Jaipur (Top spots marked with *). Flight from Jaipur to Kochi.
KERALA. Kochi, 3 nights—disappointing, but the Backwaters to the north by scooter were stunning and not touristy. Kochi to Varkala by Uber with a Canadian couple. Varkala, 4 nights—great for relaxing, but scooter rentals weren’t available, which was a shame. Varkala to Munroe Island by train. 2 nights in Monroe. Munroe Island to Kumilly. 2 nights on Christmas Day—meh, not much to do since all the park excursions were booked by Indian tourists. Kumilly to Munnar by local taxi, negotiated the day before. Munnar—processions, tea fields, and *so* many Indian tourists during this period that it was impossible to find scooters to rent.
TAMIL NADU Crossed Tamil Nadu from Munnar to Auroville in 3 days, stopping at the extraordinary Tamil temples of Madurai, Trichy, Thanjavur, Darasuram, Chidambaram, and others. With the lunar conjunction, pilgrimages, and year-end holidays, there were *tons* of pilgrims! Auroville to Pondicherry by scooter, then a tuk-tuk for New Year’s Eve—still *so* crowded! Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram by local bus. Mahabalipuram, 2 nights—nice and chill. Mahabalipuram to Chennai by Uber.
ANDAMAN ISLANDS Chennai to Port Blair by flight, Andaman Islands. Port Blair, 2 nights—almost too much! Speedboat to Havelock, 4 nights—still lots of Indian tourism. Couldn’t go snorkeling with a dive operator or rent gear. Luckily, we managed to buy some and do it ourselves. Speedboat to Neil Island, 3 days, 2 nights—too short, but excellent snorkeling from "Elephant, Four Wise Men." Phew, no biting flies, and we weren’t eaten by crocodiles. Back to Port Blair, then Delhi, one night, and return to Geneva.
Our impressions of India. Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu—we eventually got tired of palaces and temples. It’s always complicated and exhausting to get around on foot in the cities. During the year-end period from mid-December to mid-January, *so* many tourists! The Andaman Islands were a bit disappointing—too short, and for snorkeling, Indonesia is easier and less expensive.
Our photos========================= Trip summary NEPAL AND INDIA (140 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVY4qaLcArvXzUx58
All photos from the Nepal trek (81 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/pXkG3JaFyJg93k1s8
All photos NEPAL After the trek and Christine’s accident (87 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/UgbNWb6oAibif3837
All photos RAJASTHAN (tough to narrow down! 230 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/GghreEkzhZoq6Rcw7
All photos SOUTH INDIA KERALA, Tamil Nadu, Andaman (200 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/DYnp2JLyLR2UCM3R6
NEPAL, one month. 2 days of exploring between Kathmandu and Patan. 14 days of trekking from Kathmandu to Langtang, passing by sacred lakes. Trek with a French-speaking guide and 2 porters from the local French-speaking tour operator "NEPAL VOYAGE." Ended with a helicopter ride due to a wrist fracture on black ice at 3,900m. 3 days in the hospital in Kathmandu. Continued the trip in Nepal with a self-guided stay in Bhaktapur and Pokhara. Returned to Kathmandu by plane, then flew to Delhi.
RAJASTHAN. 18 days touring Rajasthan with a French-speaking driver "RAVINDRA MENA." Highlights: Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur*, Ranakpur*, Udaipur*, Bundi, Pushkar*, Jaipur, Agra, Jaipur (Top spots marked with *). Flight from Jaipur to Kochi.
KERALA. Kochi, 3 nights—disappointing, but the Backwaters to the north by scooter were stunning and not touristy. Kochi to Varkala by Uber with a Canadian couple. Varkala, 4 nights—great for relaxing, but scooter rentals weren’t available, which was a shame. Varkala to Munroe Island by train. 2 nights in Monroe. Munroe Island to Kumilly. 2 nights on Christmas Day—meh, not much to do since all the park excursions were booked by Indian tourists. Kumilly to Munnar by local taxi, negotiated the day before. Munnar—processions, tea fields, and *so* many Indian tourists during this period that it was impossible to find scooters to rent.
TAMIL NADU Crossed Tamil Nadu from Munnar to Auroville in 3 days, stopping at the extraordinary Tamil temples of Madurai, Trichy, Thanjavur, Darasuram, Chidambaram, and others. With the lunar conjunction, pilgrimages, and year-end holidays, there were *tons* of pilgrims! Auroville to Pondicherry by scooter, then a tuk-tuk for New Year’s Eve—still *so* crowded! Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram by local bus. Mahabalipuram, 2 nights—nice and chill. Mahabalipuram to Chennai by Uber.
ANDAMAN ISLANDS Chennai to Port Blair by flight, Andaman Islands. Port Blair, 2 nights—almost too much! Speedboat to Havelock, 4 nights—still lots of Indian tourism. Couldn’t go snorkeling with a dive operator or rent gear. Luckily, we managed to buy some and do it ourselves. Speedboat to Neil Island, 3 days, 2 nights—too short, but excellent snorkeling from "Elephant, Four Wise Men." Phew, no biting flies, and we weren’t eaten by crocodiles. Back to Port Blair, then Delhi, one night, and return to Geneva.
Our impressions of India. Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu—we eventually got tired of palaces and temples. It’s always complicated and exhausting to get around on foot in the cities. During the year-end period from mid-December to mid-January, *so* many tourists! The Andaman Islands were a bit disappointing—too short, and for snorkeling, Indonesia is easier and less expensive.
Our photos========================= Trip summary NEPAL AND INDIA (140 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVY4qaLcArvXzUx58
All photos from the Nepal trek (81 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/pXkG3JaFyJg93k1s8
All photos NEPAL After the trek and Christine’s accident (87 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/UgbNWb6oAibif3837
All photos RAJASTHAN (tough to narrow down! 230 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/GghreEkzhZoq6Rcw7
All photos SOUTH INDIA KERALA, Tamil Nadu, Andaman (200 photos) https://photos.app.goo.gl/DYnp2JLyLR2UCM3R6
Renting a car across multiple islands in Indonesia
Hi everyone,
When we travel abroad, we usually rent a car to be independent with our itinerary and free with our timing. But we get the feeling that it’s not so simple in Indonesia.
Is it feasible, for example, to drive from Bali to Komodo National Park by car? What are the roads like? Can you rent and return cars on these smaller islands?
Thanks for your replies.
What to see and do in Quebec for a first trip?
Hello,
I’m planning a trip for mid-September. 4 adults. Retirees—what should we do in Quebec for 3 weeks? Starting from Montreal. First-timers for planning. With car rentals. Thanks for your help!
Feedback on a 7-day itinerary in Senegal
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for the first time at the end of February as a group of four, and we’re eager to make the most of our 7 days. So, not much (if any) downtime—just a heads-up! ;)
For such a short trip, we’ve had to make some tough choices. We’ve decided to skip Lompoul due to the 24/7 noise and light pollution from the mine. Casamance is too far for this time around. We love animals and birds (and it seems late February/early March is still a good time to spot migratory birds). We’re planning to rent a car.
Putting all these factors together, here’s the rough itinerary we’ve come up with:
- Day 1: Dakar, Gorée
- Day 2: Kayar, Saint-Louis, Lac de Barbarie
- Day 3: Makhana, Djoudj Bird Sanctuary, Lac de Barbarie
- Day 4: Drive to Somone
- Day 5: Bandia, Somone
- Day 6: Saloum Delta
- Day 7: Saloum Delta
- Day 8: Return to Dakar Airport
What do you think? How much extra does it cost, roughly, to hire a guide compared to just renting a car on our own? Thanks so much for your insights—we really appreciate it! Christophe
What do you think? How much extra does it cost, roughly, to hire a guide compared to just renting a car on our own? Thanks so much for your insights—we really appreciate it! Christophe
Oman for backpackers: trip report
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
The Great Ocean Road in Australia
Tuesday, December 5, 2023
Melbourne – Lorne
We pick up the car 500 meters away, in a Chinatown parking lot that the hotel has a deal with, then it’s off with a *vroom vroom* while listening to a podcast about the victim of a compulsive mythomaniac—who also happens to be her husband—leading a completely compartmentalized double life. Later, he discovers, after contacting his alter-ego from this parallel universe, that he was actually living a *third* life... and maybe even more? We arrive in Torquay, where we stretch our legs along the Koorie Cultural Walk with a view of Bells Beach...


It’s here, just outside Lorne, that the Great Ocean Road officially begins...
We arrive at our apartment, which is pretty nice—Dom and I are really particular about the quality of our terraces. I’ve never really talked about the practical quirks of daily life in Australia. For example, I could tell you that *every single* power outlet we used on this trip had a switch to turn it on or off. No exceptions, ever! Why? They must find it useful, but for us, it’s a total mystery... And of course, their power outlets require an adapter. Just one of many little peculiarities.
Another odd observation: *every* toilet, even the most remote ones hidden deep in the bush, always had a roll of toilet paper available. No shortages here!
And then we’re greeted by a big family of cute sparrows...


We spent a long time enjoying their pool before heading out for a walk—all the way to Erskine Falls, about ten kilometers away...
We pick up the car 500 meters away, in a Chinatown parking lot that the hotel has a deal with, then it’s off with a *vroom vroom* while listening to a podcast about the victim of a compulsive mythomaniac—who also happens to be her husband—leading a completely compartmentalized double life. Later, he discovers, after contacting his alter-ego from this parallel universe, that he was actually living a *third* life... and maybe even more? We arrive in Torquay, where we stretch our legs along the Koorie Cultural Walk with a view of Bells Beach...



It’s here, just outside Lorne, that the Great Ocean Road officially begins...

We arrive at our apartment, which is pretty nice—Dom and I are really particular about the quality of our terraces. I’ve never really talked about the practical quirks of daily life in Australia. For example, I could tell you that *every single* power outlet we used on this trip had a switch to turn it on or off. No exceptions, ever! Why? They must find it useful, but for us, it’s a total mystery... And of course, their power outlets require an adapter. Just one of many little peculiarities.
Another odd observation: *every* toilet, even the most remote ones hidden deep in the bush, always had a roll of toilet paper available. No shortages here!
And then we’re greeted by a big family of cute sparrows...

We spent a long time enjoying their pool before heading out for a walk—all the way to Erskine Falls, about ten kilometers away...

Trip to Japan in autumn 2025 with a child
Hi everyone,
So great to be back on this forum😉
I just lightened my wallet by 3000 € for 3 tickets: Paris > Tokyo > Osaka > Paris (well, not just mine—I’m exaggerating, there are two of us). For my daughter’s 10th birthday, we’re heading to Japan—it’s her "decade gift," though I thought she’d pick London🏴☠️. But I’ve been dreaming of going back to Japan since my 2013 trip, so I’ll admit this trip is (a lot) for me too. We’re traveling during school holidays, so the ticket prices are unfortunately sky-high. Maybe I could’ve gotten a better deal if I’d waited, but who knows... oh well, it’s done now. We leave at the end of October, so we still have a few months to prepare. That said, I’d rather start early to make sure we don’t miss anything (like the Ghibli Museum—I couldn’t go last time, and anyway, I’ll have to wait until September to book). Last time, there were three adults, so it was pretty straightforward. Eleven years later, well, now it’s two adults with a 10-year-old😛.
So I’m wondering how many days to spend in Tokyo. My daughter idealizes the city (that’s why she wants to go to Japan), and she’s really drawn to Japanese culture and food. Actually, what first got her interested in Japan were all the *kawaii* character products... Tokyo is such a fascinating city, but it can also be exhausting—especially for a kid, and I’m not sure what to expect. Beyond Tokyo, honestly, I’m not entirely sure. I was thinking of Hakone and maybe stopping by Fujikyu Highlands. Then heading down to Osaka for a few days in Kyoto before flying home (our return flight is from Osaka). We only have 11 days there (not counting the arrival day, and since our flight leaves at 11:30 PM on departure day, we’ll have the whole day), so it’s not a ton of time. I already spent a week in Kyoto on my last trip (huge crush on it), and I’d love to have two months there, but... well, you know how it is.
For example: 5 days in Tokyo 2 days in Hakone 4 days in Osaka/Kyoto
What do you think? If you’ve done this trip with kids, do you have any tips for family-friendly accommodations in Tokyo and Hakone? My daughter would love to try an onsen. We have a decent budget, but it’s not unlimited. We’d like to book as we go to spread out the costs a bit.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts
I just lightened my wallet by 3000 € for 3 tickets: Paris > Tokyo > Osaka > Paris (well, not just mine—I’m exaggerating, there are two of us). For my daughter’s 10th birthday, we’re heading to Japan—it’s her "decade gift," though I thought she’d pick London🏴☠️. But I’ve been dreaming of going back to Japan since my 2013 trip, so I’ll admit this trip is (a lot) for me too. We’re traveling during school holidays, so the ticket prices are unfortunately sky-high. Maybe I could’ve gotten a better deal if I’d waited, but who knows... oh well, it’s done now. We leave at the end of October, so we still have a few months to prepare. That said, I’d rather start early to make sure we don’t miss anything (like the Ghibli Museum—I couldn’t go last time, and anyway, I’ll have to wait until September to book). Last time, there were three adults, so it was pretty straightforward. Eleven years later, well, now it’s two adults with a 10-year-old😛.
So I’m wondering how many days to spend in Tokyo. My daughter idealizes the city (that’s why she wants to go to Japan), and she’s really drawn to Japanese culture and food. Actually, what first got her interested in Japan were all the *kawaii* character products... Tokyo is such a fascinating city, but it can also be exhausting—especially for a kid, and I’m not sure what to expect. Beyond Tokyo, honestly, I’m not entirely sure. I was thinking of Hakone and maybe stopping by Fujikyu Highlands. Then heading down to Osaka for a few days in Kyoto before flying home (our return flight is from Osaka). We only have 11 days there (not counting the arrival day, and since our flight leaves at 11:30 PM on departure day, we’ll have the whole day), so it’s not a ton of time. I already spent a week in Kyoto on my last trip (huge crush on it), and I’d love to have two months there, but... well, you know how it is.
For example: 5 days in Tokyo 2 days in Hakone 4 days in Osaka/Kyoto
What do you think? If you’ve done this trip with kids, do you have any tips for family-friendly accommodations in Tokyo and Hakone? My daughter would love to try an onsen. We have a decent budget, but it’s not unlimited. We’d like to book as we go to spread out the costs a bit.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts
The 8 Most Beautiful Hikes to Do in Réunion Island
Réunion Island, this paradise in the Indian Ocean, is a must-visit destination for hiking enthusiasts. With its active volcanoes, majestic cirques, and impressive peaks, there’s plenty to delight nature and adventure lovers. This article takes you on a journey to discover the eight most beautiful hikes the island has to offer. Lace up your hiking boots—let’s go!
1- Piton des Neiges: The Summit of Réunion
Piton des Neiges is the highest point on Réunion Island at 3,070 meters. It’s an iconic hike that attracts a large number of hikers every year. Climbing Piton des Neiges is like stepping into a unique atmosphere where volcanic landscapes blend with lush vegetation.
The hike usually starts from the picturesque village of Cilaos. It takes about six hours to reach the summit, so good physical condition is a must. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire island. A simple flight from Paris to Saint-Denis and you’re ready for this stunning adventure.
Here are a few tips:
Bring warm clothes—it can get very cold at the summit. Pack enough water and food. Start before dawn to catch the sunrise from the summit.
2- Piton de la Fournaise: A Volcanic Walk
You can’t visit Réunion without stopping by Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. The hike usually begins at Pas de Bellecombe, accessible after a winding road that already offers spectacular views. The well-marked trail first takes you through lunar landscapes to the Enclos Fouqué, then continues toward the Dolomieu crater. Frequent eruptions often change the scenery, making each visit unique. Piton de la Fournaise is a grand natural spectacle you won’t want to miss during your trip.
Here are a few tips:
Check the volcano’s current activity before heading out. Wear sturdy shoes for walking on solidified lava. Always bring maps or a GPS, as signs may be damaged by eruptions.

3- Cirque de Mafate: In the Heart of Nature
Accessible only on foot or by helicopter, the Cirque de Mafate is a true paradise for hikers. This isolated area offers a multitude of trails leading to authentic villages, stunning viewpoints, and untouched nature. The Sentier Scout is one of the most popular routes for exploring Mafate. It starts at Le Bélier, passes through the Col des Bœufs, and then descends into the cirque. Get ready to be amazed by the enchanting panoramas and majestic peaks along the way. It’s a full immersion into the tranquility of Mafate.
Here are a few tips:
Wear good hiking shoes, as some sections can be steep. Book your nights in a gîte in advance if you’re planning a multi-day hike. Respect the environment and locals by taking all your trash with you.
4- Cirque de Cilaos: Between Mountains and Vineyards
The Cirque de Cilaos, with its waterfalls and lush forests, also offers magnificent hiking opportunities. One of the most remarkable trails leads to Grand Bénare, the island’s third-highest peak.
The hike usually starts from the Plateau des Chênes. This moderate-difficulty hike takes about five hours to reach the summit. Once there, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Cirque de Cilaos and Piton des Neiges.
Here are a few tips:
Start early to avoid clouds that can quickly envelop the summit. Don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning landscapes. Visit the vineyards of Cilaos after your hike to taste local wine.
5- Cirque de Salazie: The Valley of Waterfalls
Known for its humid climate, the Cirque de Salazie is filled with impressive waterfalls and lush tropical forests. One of the most popular hikes leads to the Trou de Fer.
The trail starts in Hell-Bourg, ranked among France’s most beautiful villages. After a few hours of hiking through primary forest, you’ll reach a viewpoint offering an incredible view of the Trou de Fer’s abyss and its dizzying waterfalls.
Here are a few tips:
Wear waterproof and mosquito-repellent clothing. Bring a headlamp and compass, as fog can make the trail hard to follow. Check trail conditions before heading out, especially after heavy rain.

6- Grand Bénare: A Stunning Panorama
Grand Bénare offers a spectacular hike that’s a must-do on Réunion Island. Starting from the well-known viewpoint of Maïdo, the challenging yet rewarding ascent leads to the summit.
Over about ten kilometers of climbing through varied vegetation, the summit reveals a breathtaking panorama of the three cirques—Mafate, Cilaos, and Salazie. It’s a true feast for the eyes and a memorable experience for mountain lovers.
Here are a few tips:
Go when the weather is clear to fully enjoy the view from the summit. Wear good hiking shoes and bring trekking poles to make the climb easier. Don’t underestimate the duration—prepare physically for this long hike.
7- Roche Écrite: Biodiversity at Altitude
Located between the Cirque de Salazie and the Cirque de Mafate, Roche Écrite offers a hike that lets you discover exceptional flora and fauna. The hike often starts at Le Colorado, near Saint-Denis, the island’s capital.
After several hours of walking through tropical forests and varied landscapes, you’ll reach the summit at 2,276 meters. From there, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the two adjacent cirques and even spot Piton des Neiges in the distance. A must for adventurers and budding biologists.
Here are a few tips:
Check the weather forecast before heading out, as conditions can change quickly at altitude. Bring binoculars to observe endemic birds and other wildlife. Take regular breaks to soak in the scenery and recharge your energy.

8- Col des Bœufs: The Gateway to Mafate
Col des Bœufs is another popular starting point for accessing the Cirque de Mafate. This comfortable hike offers beautiful views along the way and leads to picturesque villages like Marla and La Nouvelle.
The trail starts gently from the Col des Bœufs parking lot, climbing slightly before revealing a panoramic view of Mafate. Perfect for a relaxed day hike, this route is suitable for all levels of hikers.
Here are a few tips:
Bring a picnic to enjoy a lunch break with a view. Start early to avoid crowds and the afternoon heat. Check local bus schedules to avoid any surprises at the end of your hike.
In conclusion, Réunion Island offers a multitude of exceptional hikes that let you discover breathtaking landscapes—volcanoes, cirques, tropical forests, and waterfalls. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hiker, the island will amaze you with the diversity of its trails. Get ready for unforgettable adventures in the heart of preserved nature while admiring the unique beauty of this volcanic island.
1- Piton des Neiges: The Summit of Réunion
Piton des Neiges is the highest point on Réunion Island at 3,070 meters. It’s an iconic hike that attracts a large number of hikers every year. Climbing Piton des Neiges is like stepping into a unique atmosphere where volcanic landscapes blend with lush vegetation.
The hike usually starts from the picturesque village of Cilaos. It takes about six hours to reach the summit, so good physical condition is a must. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire island. A simple flight from Paris to Saint-Denis and you’re ready for this stunning adventure.
Here are a few tips:
Bring warm clothes—it can get very cold at the summit. Pack enough water and food. Start before dawn to catch the sunrise from the summit.
2- Piton de la Fournaise: A Volcanic Walk
You can’t visit Réunion without stopping by Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. The hike usually begins at Pas de Bellecombe, accessible after a winding road that already offers spectacular views. The well-marked trail first takes you through lunar landscapes to the Enclos Fouqué, then continues toward the Dolomieu crater. Frequent eruptions often change the scenery, making each visit unique. Piton de la Fournaise is a grand natural spectacle you won’t want to miss during your trip.
Here are a few tips:
Check the volcano’s current activity before heading out. Wear sturdy shoes for walking on solidified lava. Always bring maps or a GPS, as signs may be damaged by eruptions.

3- Cirque de Mafate: In the Heart of Nature
Accessible only on foot or by helicopter, the Cirque de Mafate is a true paradise for hikers. This isolated area offers a multitude of trails leading to authentic villages, stunning viewpoints, and untouched nature. The Sentier Scout is one of the most popular routes for exploring Mafate. It starts at Le Bélier, passes through the Col des Bœufs, and then descends into the cirque. Get ready to be amazed by the enchanting panoramas and majestic peaks along the way. It’s a full immersion into the tranquility of Mafate.
Here are a few tips:
Wear good hiking shoes, as some sections can be steep. Book your nights in a gîte in advance if you’re planning a multi-day hike. Respect the environment and locals by taking all your trash with you.
4- Cirque de Cilaos: Between Mountains and Vineyards
The Cirque de Cilaos, with its waterfalls and lush forests, also offers magnificent hiking opportunities. One of the most remarkable trails leads to Grand Bénare, the island’s third-highest peak.
The hike usually starts from the Plateau des Chênes. This moderate-difficulty hike takes about five hours to reach the summit. Once there, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Cirque de Cilaos and Piton des Neiges.
Here are a few tips:
Start early to avoid clouds that can quickly envelop the summit. Don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning landscapes. Visit the vineyards of Cilaos after your hike to taste local wine.
5- Cirque de Salazie: The Valley of Waterfalls
Known for its humid climate, the Cirque de Salazie is filled with impressive waterfalls and lush tropical forests. One of the most popular hikes leads to the Trou de Fer.
The trail starts in Hell-Bourg, ranked among France’s most beautiful villages. After a few hours of hiking through primary forest, you’ll reach a viewpoint offering an incredible view of the Trou de Fer’s abyss and its dizzying waterfalls.
Here are a few tips:
Wear waterproof and mosquito-repellent clothing. Bring a headlamp and compass, as fog can make the trail hard to follow. Check trail conditions before heading out, especially after heavy rain.

6- Grand Bénare: A Stunning Panorama
Grand Bénare offers a spectacular hike that’s a must-do on Réunion Island. Starting from the well-known viewpoint of Maïdo, the challenging yet rewarding ascent leads to the summit.
Over about ten kilometers of climbing through varied vegetation, the summit reveals a breathtaking panorama of the three cirques—Mafate, Cilaos, and Salazie. It’s a true feast for the eyes and a memorable experience for mountain lovers.
Here are a few tips:
Go when the weather is clear to fully enjoy the view from the summit. Wear good hiking shoes and bring trekking poles to make the climb easier. Don’t underestimate the duration—prepare physically for this long hike.
7- Roche Écrite: Biodiversity at Altitude
Located between the Cirque de Salazie and the Cirque de Mafate, Roche Écrite offers a hike that lets you discover exceptional flora and fauna. The hike often starts at Le Colorado, near Saint-Denis, the island’s capital.
After several hours of walking through tropical forests and varied landscapes, you’ll reach the summit at 2,276 meters. From there, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the two adjacent cirques and even spot Piton des Neiges in the distance. A must for adventurers and budding biologists.
Here are a few tips:
Check the weather forecast before heading out, as conditions can change quickly at altitude. Bring binoculars to observe endemic birds and other wildlife. Take regular breaks to soak in the scenery and recharge your energy.

8- Col des Bœufs: The Gateway to Mafate
Col des Bœufs is another popular starting point for accessing the Cirque de Mafate. This comfortable hike offers beautiful views along the way and leads to picturesque villages like Marla and La Nouvelle.
The trail starts gently from the Col des Bœufs parking lot, climbing slightly before revealing a panoramic view of Mafate. Perfect for a relaxed day hike, this route is suitable for all levels of hikers.
Here are a few tips:
Bring a picnic to enjoy a lunch break with a view. Start early to avoid crowds and the afternoon heat. Check local bus schedules to avoid any surprises at the end of your hike.
In conclusion, Réunion Island offers a multitude of exceptional hikes that let you discover breathtaking landscapes—volcanoes, cirques, tropical forests, and waterfalls. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hiker, the island will amaze you with the diversity of its trails. Get ready for unforgettable adventures in the heart of preserved nature while admiring the unique beauty of this volcanic island.
Tuscany: Arezzo province and the Siena area
So happy the forum reopened last October!!!
I’ve started reading again (posts, travel journals) and chiming in on a few discussions. Now I’m stepping it up by writing a new travel journal—I’ve already posted a few between 2018 and 2020.
My latest trip was to Italy from August 27 to September 26, 2024. As the title says, it was a wander through Tuscany in parts of the region that aren’t the most visited. No Firenze-Siena-Pisa trilogy, no San Gimignano; there’ll be a quick detour into Siena, but I’ll skip the best-known sights. That choice, plus traveling in September, should help dodge overtourism. It worked out—crowds were light, sometimes very light, the whole way. Here’s the practical rundown: - a long trip outside peak season (ah, retirees!) - solo camping (caravan) - a mix of activities (hiking, mountain biking, sightseeing) in places that aren’t always packed with tourists. Still, I don’t feel like I ended up in some hidden-away spots. Not sure if this will draw any readers.
DAY 1: Tuesday, August 27, 2024 The heat was intense on the drive in across the plain; two big storms—more rain and hail than lightning and thunder—threw the weather off, the first near Imola, the second on the four-lane road up the Savio valley. I left the Cesena-Roma four-lane at the Verghereto exit and climbed up to Balze (1,100 meters). The campsite is even higher (1,200 meters), in the forest near the source of the Tevere (Tiber). Staying up here will cut down on driving for the first part of the trip: a route through the Appennino (Apennines) on the border between Toscana and Emilia-Romagna. The temperature was surprisingly mild for the altitude, the air thick with moisture by late afternoon. I drove back down from the campsite to Balze (2 km on the road) to grab groceries (it’s doable) and scout tomorrow’s hike. .
The endpoint of the planned hike is just a few meters from this sign (the trail crosses this road about 3 km from Balze). I realized Balze and the source of the Tevere (Tiber) are actually in Emilia-Romagna, not Toscana. I always thought the Tevere (Tiber), which flows toward Roma (Tyrrhenian side), started in Toscana! I’ll come back to this quirk in Day 3’s write-up.
My latest trip was to Italy from August 27 to September 26, 2024. As the title says, it was a wander through Tuscany in parts of the region that aren’t the most visited. No Firenze-Siena-Pisa trilogy, no San Gimignano; there’ll be a quick detour into Siena, but I’ll skip the best-known sights. That choice, plus traveling in September, should help dodge overtourism. It worked out—crowds were light, sometimes very light, the whole way. Here’s the practical rundown: - a long trip outside peak season (ah, retirees!) - solo camping (caravan) - a mix of activities (hiking, mountain biking, sightseeing) in places that aren’t always packed with tourists. Still, I don’t feel like I ended up in some hidden-away spots. Not sure if this will draw any readers.
DAY 1: Tuesday, August 27, 2024 The heat was intense on the drive in across the plain; two big storms—more rain and hail than lightning and thunder—threw the weather off, the first near Imola, the second on the four-lane road up the Savio valley. I left the Cesena-Roma four-lane at the Verghereto exit and climbed up to Balze (1,100 meters). The campsite is even higher (1,200 meters), in the forest near the source of the Tevere (Tiber). Staying up here will cut down on driving for the first part of the trip: a route through the Appennino (Apennines) on the border between Toscana and Emilia-Romagna. The temperature was surprisingly mild for the altitude, the air thick with moisture by late afternoon. I drove back down from the campsite to Balze (2 km on the road) to grab groceries (it’s doable) and scout tomorrow’s hike. .

The endpoint of the planned hike is just a few meters from this sign (the trail crosses this road about 3 km from Balze). I realized Balze and the source of the Tevere (Tiber) are actually in Emilia-Romagna, not Toscana. I always thought the Tevere (Tiber), which flows toward Roma (Tyrrhenian side), started in Toscana! I’ll come back to this quirk in Day 3’s write-up.
Nothing’s stopping you from going to Ampefy (Madagascar)
During these three big weeks in Madagascar, one week in Sainte Marie, a few days for a little loop in the west/south, and the rest in Tana.
This loop I’m talking about covers an area I’d never taken the time to visit before. A recent road in good condition, the chance to pass through beautiful highland landscapes, and a few free days made it the perfect opportunity. Destination: Ampefy, west of Tana via the RN1, then a turn south onto the recently rehabilitated RN43 to reach Antsirabe before heading back to Tana. Four days planned—perfect, since an extra day wouldn’t have been a problem given all the activities in Ampefy.
First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.
As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.
After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.
Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.
The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.
To be continued...
First day: a relaxed and fairly late departure for Ampefy. We weren’t in a rush and took our time. Traffic leaving Tana to get back on the RN1 cost us the head start we had on our original schedule. An hour and a half bumper-to-bumper with the *buxis*, inching painfully toward the roundabout and then the bridge that acts as a bottleneck—we dove in like all our fellow sufferers. It’s not our everyday reality, and we were early, so no big deal, but man, it’s long and slow. Once past that obstacle, traffic flowed smoothly, and the road was good (all the way to Ampefy). We moved through highland landscapes, bustling villages full of activity, and countless agricultural supply shops—clear proof, if any were needed, that we were crossing a prime farming region. Around Arivonimamo, we passed through a forest with a Mediterranean vibe: a single-species forest of stout little trees with glossy, elongated light-green leaves—these are *tapia*. An endemic tree in Madagascar, and a pretty unique forest as a result (you can see them elsewhere, like between Antsirabe and Ambositra). There are efforts to protect it from illegal logging because the wood is fire-resistant, which helps shield the forest from wildfires. Beyond its biodiversity value, the *tapia* hosts silkworms, giving it economic and cultural importance.
As we kept going, we started spotting a lake and mountains with the rounded shapes typical of extinct volcanoes worn down by time and the elements. We were approaching Lake Itasy and, by extension, Ampefy. We stopped at a *hotely* for a plate of *tongon’kisoa*—pig’s trotters caramelized by cooking, with thick, flavorful skin—along with the obligatory portion of rice, which we took the time to drizzle with cooking juices to make it a bit more appetizing. Full, we turned left to reach Ampefy and our hotel. The landscape was dotted with collapsed, dormant volcanic cones, and suddenly, the view opened up onto the lake. Shallow and expansive, we followed it, losing sight of it now and then before finding it again in Ampefy itself, which we entered after crossing the Lily, a beautiful river that drains the lake. Lots of hotels and restaurants, with plenty of options at all price points. We chose the *Farihy*, about 5 km past Ampefy. A gorgeous spot by the lake, with a pool and lovely bungalows—some with picture windows overlooking the lake. Really nice. In the evening, a drink and some *sak sak* for aperitif on the terrace. It wasn’t warm, there was a lot of wind, and a storm was brewing. Off to bed quickly to start the next day’s visits.
After buying some lychees—we hadn’t seen many this year, and these were fresh from the field, picked in Ampefy—we headed to the Lily Falls. Well signposted, with a paved road in great condition, we stopped at the kiosk for the entrance fee and parking (1 euro for one *vahiny* and 10 cents for one Malagasy). We set off down the path and quickly reached the first waterfall, then continued for maybe 1 km on a well-marked trail to the second. A guide led us to the third, which is harder to spot and isn’t actually on the Lily itself. Beautiful countryside scenery: fishermen straight out of *Tom Sawyer*, straw hats on their heads, lying down with one foot hooked to a fragile bamboo rod, their line dipping into the calm river. Men preparing rice paddies with their *angady*, women transplanting rice, bent over the water. At some points, we walked along the dikes between paddies almost ready for harvest. It’s peaceful and beautiful when you’re strolling or fishing, but working the paddies is grueling, especially under that beating sun. A really nice walk—2 hours and a bit, going at a leisurely pace. A guide isn’t mandatory; only the entrance fee is. We took one because it provides a bit of work and puts money in the hands of locals, giving them more incentive to protect the site. But you can easily skip it, like most people do. Lots of visitors since it was the weekend—Tananarivians with family or groups of young people, scout groups organized under their chaperones’ direction. Very few foreign tourists, though—that’s a general observation. It’s great to see this growth in domestic tourism, giving Malagasy people the chance to discover their own country and allowing those in the sector to rely less on foreign visitors, who’ve been scarce for years.
Next, we headed to the "geysers" (which aren’t actually geysers, but whatever). We had to go back to the RN1, head toward Tsiroanomandidy, and a few kilometers later, a well-marked sign and a newly paved track led us to a pretty site. Again, lots of people, another kiosk, more fees to pay, and guides available. This time, we skipped the guide. A downpour caught us in front of the "geysers," so we took shelter under a little shop, grabbing an ice cream and some drinks. We didn’t stay long—we weren’t interested in a massage or a dip in the thermal water. The countryside and barren mountain landscapes were stunning on the way back to the hotel. We noticed you could go paragliding right in front of the bungalow, so we booked a session for the next morning. After eating at the *Auberge* in the town center (it was good), we headed back to the hotel to turn in early. Once again, a storm rolled in during the afternoon, and the temperature dropped significantly.
The next morning, around 8 a.m., we walked to the takeoff zone near the hotel. Towed by a small boat, we took off for a flight over the lake and the volcanic domes before landing back at the same spot. Two companies handle this. I’m no expert, but it seemed safe and well-organized.
To be continued...
Family boat trip from Manaus (Brazil) to Yurimaguas (Peru)
Hello,
As part of a 10-month trip to explore and discover South America, we’d like to start our journey in northern Brazil since the timing is perfect for traveling up the Amazon. We’re traveling as a family of five with three kids aged 6, 9, and 18.
Our plan is to leave from Manaus and reach Yurimaguas in Peru via the Amazon, mostly by boat. Since we have plenty of time, we can take breaks to explore the different stops along the way that are worth it. The idea is to eventually head to Colombia via Ecuador later on.
So far, we’ve identified the following stops: - Manaus - Tabatinga - Iquitos - Sumiria Reserve (we’d like to stay there for a week) - Yurimaguas.
We’re thinking of traveling in a cabin/hammock for the longest leg (Manaus to Tabatinga) and just in hammocks for the shorter trips (max 3 days).
I have a few questions: 1. From a safety perspective, is the area we’re planning to cross safe, considering we’ll be with our three kids, the youngest being 6? 2. Isn’t this route a bit too ambitious for our kids? 3. We’re considering adding the Santarém/Manaus leg. Is Santarém a city worth adding to the itinerary? 4. Among the planned stops, which ones deserve a special visit? 5. Do the boat trips always include meals on board, or should we be careful when booking? 6. What would be a reasonable estimate for the duration of this trip to fully enjoy it?
I’ve read quite a bit—like trying to board early to get the best hammock spots, and that travel times can vary depending on currents, stops, and potential technical issues. But that’s not a problem since we have all the time in the world! :)
We’d love to hear from anyone who’s traveled in this area before!
Thanks so much in advance for your help in planning our trip.
Rémy, Céline, Antoine, Sacha, and Paul
As part of a 10-month trip to explore and discover South America, we’d like to start our journey in northern Brazil since the timing is perfect for traveling up the Amazon. We’re traveling as a family of five with three kids aged 6, 9, and 18.
Our plan is to leave from Manaus and reach Yurimaguas in Peru via the Amazon, mostly by boat. Since we have plenty of time, we can take breaks to explore the different stops along the way that are worth it. The idea is to eventually head to Colombia via Ecuador later on.
So far, we’ve identified the following stops: - Manaus - Tabatinga - Iquitos - Sumiria Reserve (we’d like to stay there for a week) - Yurimaguas.
We’re thinking of traveling in a cabin/hammock for the longest leg (Manaus to Tabatinga) and just in hammocks for the shorter trips (max 3 days).
I have a few questions: 1. From a safety perspective, is the area we’re planning to cross safe, considering we’ll be with our three kids, the youngest being 6? 2. Isn’t this route a bit too ambitious for our kids? 3. We’re considering adding the Santarém/Manaus leg. Is Santarém a city worth adding to the itinerary? 4. Among the planned stops, which ones deserve a special visit? 5. Do the boat trips always include meals on board, or should we be careful when booking? 6. What would be a reasonable estimate for the duration of this trip to fully enjoy it?
I’ve read quite a bit—like trying to board early to get the best hammock spots, and that travel times can vary depending on currents, stops, and potential technical issues. But that’s not a problem since we have all the time in the world! :)
We’d love to hear from anyone who’s traveled in this area before!
Thanks so much in advance for your help in planning our trip.
Rémy, Céline, Antoine, Sacha, and Paul
Enduimet in Tanzania: What to see and do?
Hi there!
I’m planning a self-drive trip to Tanzania (either September or October).
This route won’t include any of the usual parks you hear about everywhere (too expensive, too crowded, too touristy).
The idea is to explore Tanzania more for its landscapes, beaches, and hiking. A little wildlife spotting, sure, but that’s not the main goal.
Here’s the itinerary I’m considering:
(Arrival and departure from Kilimanjaro Airport)
Night 1: Southern gate of Arusha NP
Night 2: Northern gate of Arusha NP
Night 3: Enduimet
Night 4: Same (near the gates of Mkomazi NP)
Night 5: Mkomazi NP
Night 6: Mkomazi NP
Nights 7-8-9: Pangani or Tanga
Nights 10-11-12: Usambara Mountains
Nights 13-14: Foothills of Kilimanjaro
I can’t find much info about Enduimet at all.
So if anyone has any details about this place...
All your ideas, tips, and suggestions for the rest of the route are welcome too!
Thanks! :)
I’m planning a self-drive trip to Tanzania (either September or October).
This route won’t include any of the usual parks you hear about everywhere (too expensive, too crowded, too touristy).
The idea is to explore Tanzania more for its landscapes, beaches, and hiking. A little wildlife spotting, sure, but that’s not the main goal.
Here’s the itinerary I’m considering:
(Arrival and departure from Kilimanjaro Airport)
Night 1: Southern gate of Arusha NP
Night 2: Northern gate of Arusha NP
Night 3: Enduimet
Night 4: Same (near the gates of Mkomazi NP)
Night 5: Mkomazi NP
Night 6: Mkomazi NP
Nights 7-8-9: Pangani or Tanga
Nights 10-11-12: Usambara Mountains
Nights 13-14: Foothills of Kilimanjaro
I can’t find much info about Enduimet at all.
So if anyone has any details about this place...
All your ideas, tips, and suggestions for the rest of the route are welcome too!
Thanks! :)
Back on VoyageForum
Hello everyone.
It's to greet all the old-timers here with whom I had so many interactions when I used to visit this platform regularly and eagerly before it was shut down, much to our dismay.
I was a member under the name "Jaydev," but it seems I can't log in with that name anymore. Maybe I deleted the username, thinking VoyageForum wouldn't come back.
I'm so happy to be able to log in here again. Talking about Indian things—and in the language I love—lets me practice and chat with people who love the land where I was born.
From a visitor's perspective, I find it really interesting to interact with the local population. That's what gives meaning to the word "travel." Without it, traveling is essentially just "getting from one place to another."
Thanks, and see you soon.
Jaydev
I was a member under the name "Jaydev," but it seems I can't log in with that name anymore. Maybe I deleted the username, thinking VoyageForum wouldn't come back.
I'm so happy to be able to log in here again. Talking about Indian things—and in the language I love—lets me practice and chat with people who love the land where I was born.
From a visitor's perspective, I find it really interesting to interact with the local population. That's what gives meaning to the word "travel." Without it, traveling is essentially just "getting from one place to another."
Thanks, and see you soon.
Jaydev
A week in Dalmatia with the kids
Croatia
October 2024
Hi everyone, I wanted to share our family week in Croatia. Alex and I, with Apolline (6), Olympe (4), and Artémis (18 months).
Itinerary
Planning the itinerary was complicated, but in the end, I wouldn’t change a thing. Since we had a round-trip flight from Dubrovnik, I preferred to prioritize proximity, so we skipped Plitvice, which I’d really love to visit—but that’ll be for next time. We had time to... take our time, and it was really nice.
Day 1: Marseille-Dubrovnik flight. Night in Ston.
Day 2: Visit to Ston and Mali Ston. Ferry to Mljet. Night in Pomena (3 nights total).
Days 3 & 4: Walks in Mljet National Park and swimming.
Day 5: Return ferry. Visit to the Trsteno Arboretum. Night in Dubrovnik (3 nights total).
Day 6: Visit to Dubrovnik’s city walls and Old Town.
Day 7: Lokrum.
Day 8: Morning in Dubrovnik, then Cavtat and overnight flight back to Marseille.
Our visits
Ston area:
Ston village, small but charming. We walked the walls from Ston to Mali Ston. It’s a steep climb, but the views over Ston and then Mali Ston are stunning. Easy return by road, and we visited the fort. Stroller impossible on the walls.
Pratpano Beach before taking the ferry. A beautiful beach and our first swim!
Mljet
Everything is beautiful on Mljet—the villages, landscapes, beaches... There are plenty of hiking and biking trails of varying difficulty. We saw lots of bike rental shops (Pomena, Polače, at the dock for St. Mary’s...), with some bikes equipped with child seats (though no baby trailers). In Pomena, there’s a small national park office that provides maps, sells entry tickets, and gives info on possible routes. The trails are well-marked. The boat to St. Mary’s Island is included in the park entry fee.
On the first day, from Pomena, we were 20 minutes’ walk from the small saltwater lake and the dock for St. Mary’s Monastery. We visited the little island, but the monastery interior was closed. We swam in Malo Jezero Lake (but there are plenty of spots to swim in both lakes).
The next day, we did a big loop starting from Pomena, walking through the forest (with beautiful sea views) to Janik (across from the monastery), then returning along the shore paths for a swim. An easy hike with little elevation—Olympe did it without any problems. The route is clearly marked on the bike trail map from the park office.
On our last day before the 3 PM ferry, we swam and had a picnic on one of Saplunara’s gorgeous sandy beaches—we had the whole place to ourselves!
Trsteno Arboretum (30 minutes from Dubrovnik). A stunning botanical garden overlooking the sea, which we visited in the late afternoon. Stroller accessible.
Dubrovnik:
City walls. Very expensive, but worth it! Lets you see the whole Old Town and the port from above. Stroller impossible.
Old Town: lots of beautiful, narrow alleys where laundry dries between buildings. Stroller possible but not practical. We visited the two monasteries and the cathedral inside but skipped the Rector’s Palace and St. Lawrence Fort.
Lokrum: deserves a full day. A beautiful walk circles the island, alternating between coves, historic buildings, and botanical gardens. We were short on time before the last boat left, but there are plenty of great spots to swim. You can’t do the full loop with a stroller, but I think the main sights near the dock are accessible.
Cavtat: a great surprise—I’d recommend it if, like us, you have a late flight. Just 15 minutes from the airport, it’s a charming seaside village with a lovely waterfront promenade (stroller-friendly), several swimming coves, and a cute center with things to see if you have extra time (museum, mausoleum, church...), plus restaurants, gelato shops, and boutiques...
Even though the girls walked a lot and enjoyed the walks, they *loved* swimming almost every day.
Transportation
Flight with Volotea. 1-hour delay on the way back.
Rental car with Goldcar. Office 100m outside the airport (it’s small, so about a 10-minute walk from arrivals). We were first in line, and luckily so—the employee was alone, and the queue behind us got really long, so budget extra time.
Don’t plan on driving in central Dubrovnik—the parking is outrageously expensive (over 5 €/hour near the walls), so book accommodation with parking and be ready for some walking.
Ferry: punctual. This time of year, we didn’t need to be at the dock more than 30 minutes before departure. Booked online.
Accommodation
I won’t talk about our place in Ston—it wasn’t very comfortable—or the one in Pomena, where we were really poorly received. But both locations were great for sightseeing. In Dubrovnik, we spent 3 nights at Natasa’s Airbnb (Apt Kalea), which was well-equipped, comfortable, and well-located—20 minutes’ walk from the center, with parking, a garden, and... a washing machine. All right across from a supermarket and a great bakery. For those with bigger budgets, the Art Deco Hilton in the center had me dreaming for 3 days!
Food
We didn’t eat out much because of the prices, but when we did, the food was great. The cuisine blends Italian and Slavic influences, so expect amazing seafood dishes, cuttlefish ink risotto, and big mixed grilled meats, not to mention pepper sauce. Despite the price, I’d recommend the restaurant in Mali Ston, *Kapetanova Kuća*. The food was great, and the service was friendly. If you have a late flight like we did, don’t hesitate to eat at the bistro almost across from the airport, *Pod Dubom*—good, affordable menu and a smiling waiter!
A great local picnic specialty: *burek*, a delicious savory pie (meat or cheese) you’ll find in bakeries or supermarkets. Also, good dry sheep’s cheese.
For picnics in Dubrovnik, I’d recommend the pine grove at St. Lawrence Fort or the benches above the port (at the end of Dominika Street). Both have amazing views.
Weather
We had beautiful weather—perfect for swimming *and* hiking. A light sweater for mornings and late afternoons, T-shirt and swimsuit during the day. In this part of Croatia, I’d say it’s comparable to southeastern France, so ideal for a fall break.
Gear
We like taking our stroller (Yoyo) for airport trips, but it wasn’t much use otherwise. If you have to choose, a baby carrier is better—between the cobblestones and hiking trails, it’s often the only way to carry a little one. We have the Deuter Pro hiking carrier, and Artémis loves it. We had high chairs in the few restaurants we went to, but not in our accommodations, so I brought a foldable fabric seat that fits on any chair. We had a crib in Ston and Pomena but not in Dubrovnik—Artémis slept on the floor on a folded duvet.
I invested in a Minimax *cabin-sized* suitcase for Apolline for this trip—she was so proud to have her first rolling suitcase! It turned out to be practical and seems sturdy. It let us take just one checked bag for all five of us for the first time.
Good and bad impressions
The swims in Mljet’s stunning, nearly empty nature.
Unfortunately, we felt unwelcome. The guidebook mentioned that Croatians can be standoffish at first, but we never got past that first impression. The constant feeling of being in the way—even though we weren’t there in peak season—was a bit unsettling. On the way back, I found out everyone I talked to (with or without kids) felt the same. Of course, it’s not universal—some people were polite, even warm (yes, really!).
No major issues, but a few things to note:
The car rental company only accepted debit cards, not credit cards. It was clearly stated in the contract, but I didn’t take it seriously. Luckily, Alexandre had a professional debit card, but *double-check yours before you go*.
For the car, despite the super-low rental price, you’ll have to add fees if you plan to take a ferry (50 to 80 € depending on the agency).
On Mljet, the only supermarket in Pomena was closed. We had to drive 10 minutes to Polače for basics. For diapers, we had to go even farther. I only saw formula for newborns in small supermarkets—maybe you can find more in Dubrovnik or at a pharmacy. I ended up using regular milk for Artémis.
Health
No issues, and no one got sick. We swam in very accessible spots given the girls’ ages, but if you’re eyeing a gorgeous little cove, watch out for sea urchins—we saw a lot!
Portable DVD players for the plane and car, but we barely used them. The girls watched cartoons in English on TV.
Kidizoom cameras.
A few toys for Artémis.
Budget
We found Croatia expensive, and I imagine it’s even worse in summer. For restaurants, sightseeing, and groceries, expect to pay the same as—or more than—in France. On the other hand, flights were low-cost, and accommodations were reasonable. The rental car was almost a steal, even with the extra ferry fees.
Round-trip flight from Marseille: 583 €
Car for 8 days: 56 € (+50 € for ferry fees)
Accommodations (7 nights): 509 €
Sightseeing:
Mljet National Park entry: 15 €/adult for 2 days (boat to St. Mary’s included)
Arboretum: 10 €/adult
Dubrovnik walls: 35 €/adult
Ferry Pratpano-Mljet: 60 € round-trip
October 2024
Hi everyone, I wanted to share our family week in Croatia. Alex and I, with Apolline (6), Olympe (4), and Artémis (18 months).
Itinerary
Planning the itinerary was complicated, but in the end, I wouldn’t change a thing. Since we had a round-trip flight from Dubrovnik, I preferred to prioritize proximity, so we skipped Plitvice, which I’d really love to visit—but that’ll be for next time. We had time to... take our time, and it was really nice.
Day 1: Marseille-Dubrovnik flight. Night in Ston.
Day 2: Visit to Ston and Mali Ston. Ferry to Mljet. Night in Pomena (3 nights total).
Days 3 & 4: Walks in Mljet National Park and swimming.
Day 5: Return ferry. Visit to the Trsteno Arboretum. Night in Dubrovnik (3 nights total).
Day 6: Visit to Dubrovnik’s city walls and Old Town.
Day 7: Lokrum.
Day 8: Morning in Dubrovnik, then Cavtat and overnight flight back to Marseille.
Our visits
Ston area:
Ston village, small but charming. We walked the walls from Ston to Mali Ston. It’s a steep climb, but the views over Ston and then Mali Ston are stunning. Easy return by road, and we visited the fort. Stroller impossible on the walls.
Pratpano Beach before taking the ferry. A beautiful beach and our first swim!
Mljet
Everything is beautiful on Mljet—the villages, landscapes, beaches... There are plenty of hiking and biking trails of varying difficulty. We saw lots of bike rental shops (Pomena, Polače, at the dock for St. Mary’s...), with some bikes equipped with child seats (though no baby trailers). In Pomena, there’s a small national park office that provides maps, sells entry tickets, and gives info on possible routes. The trails are well-marked. The boat to St. Mary’s Island is included in the park entry fee.
On the first day, from Pomena, we were 20 minutes’ walk from the small saltwater lake and the dock for St. Mary’s Monastery. We visited the little island, but the monastery interior was closed. We swam in Malo Jezero Lake (but there are plenty of spots to swim in both lakes).
The next day, we did a big loop starting from Pomena, walking through the forest (with beautiful sea views) to Janik (across from the monastery), then returning along the shore paths for a swim. An easy hike with little elevation—Olympe did it without any problems. The route is clearly marked on the bike trail map from the park office.
On our last day before the 3 PM ferry, we swam and had a picnic on one of Saplunara’s gorgeous sandy beaches—we had the whole place to ourselves!
Trsteno Arboretum (30 minutes from Dubrovnik). A stunning botanical garden overlooking the sea, which we visited in the late afternoon. Stroller accessible.
Dubrovnik:
City walls. Very expensive, but worth it! Lets you see the whole Old Town and the port from above. Stroller impossible.
Old Town: lots of beautiful, narrow alleys where laundry dries between buildings. Stroller possible but not practical. We visited the two monasteries and the cathedral inside but skipped the Rector’s Palace and St. Lawrence Fort.
Lokrum: deserves a full day. A beautiful walk circles the island, alternating between coves, historic buildings, and botanical gardens. We were short on time before the last boat left, but there are plenty of great spots to swim. You can’t do the full loop with a stroller, but I think the main sights near the dock are accessible.
Cavtat: a great surprise—I’d recommend it if, like us, you have a late flight. Just 15 minutes from the airport, it’s a charming seaside village with a lovely waterfront promenade (stroller-friendly), several swimming coves, and a cute center with things to see if you have extra time (museum, mausoleum, church...), plus restaurants, gelato shops, and boutiques...
Even though the girls walked a lot and enjoyed the walks, they *loved* swimming almost every day.
Transportation
Flight with Volotea. 1-hour delay on the way back.
Rental car with Goldcar. Office 100m outside the airport (it’s small, so about a 10-minute walk from arrivals). We were first in line, and luckily so—the employee was alone, and the queue behind us got really long, so budget extra time.
Don’t plan on driving in central Dubrovnik—the parking is outrageously expensive (over 5 €/hour near the walls), so book accommodation with parking and be ready for some walking.
Ferry: punctual. This time of year, we didn’t need to be at the dock more than 30 minutes before departure. Booked online.
Accommodation
I won’t talk about our place in Ston—it wasn’t very comfortable—or the one in Pomena, where we were really poorly received. But both locations were great for sightseeing. In Dubrovnik, we spent 3 nights at Natasa’s Airbnb (Apt Kalea), which was well-equipped, comfortable, and well-located—20 minutes’ walk from the center, with parking, a garden, and... a washing machine. All right across from a supermarket and a great bakery. For those with bigger budgets, the Art Deco Hilton in the center had me dreaming for 3 days!
Food
We didn’t eat out much because of the prices, but when we did, the food was great. The cuisine blends Italian and Slavic influences, so expect amazing seafood dishes, cuttlefish ink risotto, and big mixed grilled meats, not to mention pepper sauce. Despite the price, I’d recommend the restaurant in Mali Ston, *Kapetanova Kuća*. The food was great, and the service was friendly. If you have a late flight like we did, don’t hesitate to eat at the bistro almost across from the airport, *Pod Dubom*—good, affordable menu and a smiling waiter!
A great local picnic specialty: *burek*, a delicious savory pie (meat or cheese) you’ll find in bakeries or supermarkets. Also, good dry sheep’s cheese.
For picnics in Dubrovnik, I’d recommend the pine grove at St. Lawrence Fort or the benches above the port (at the end of Dominika Street). Both have amazing views.
Weather
We had beautiful weather—perfect for swimming *and* hiking. A light sweater for mornings and late afternoons, T-shirt and swimsuit during the day. In this part of Croatia, I’d say it’s comparable to southeastern France, so ideal for a fall break.
Gear
We like taking our stroller (Yoyo) for airport trips, but it wasn’t much use otherwise. If you have to choose, a baby carrier is better—between the cobblestones and hiking trails, it’s often the only way to carry a little one. We have the Deuter Pro hiking carrier, and Artémis loves it. We had high chairs in the few restaurants we went to, but not in our accommodations, so I brought a foldable fabric seat that fits on any chair. We had a crib in Ston and Pomena but not in Dubrovnik—Artémis slept on the floor on a folded duvet.
I invested in a Minimax *cabin-sized* suitcase for Apolline for this trip—she was so proud to have her first rolling suitcase! It turned out to be practical and seems sturdy. It let us take just one checked bag for all five of us for the first time.
Good and bad impressions
The swims in Mljet’s stunning, nearly empty nature.
Unfortunately, we felt unwelcome. The guidebook mentioned that Croatians can be standoffish at first, but we never got past that first impression. The constant feeling of being in the way—even though we weren’t there in peak season—was a bit unsettling. On the way back, I found out everyone I talked to (with or without kids) felt the same. Of course, it’s not universal—some people were polite, even warm (yes, really!).
No major issues, but a few things to note:
The car rental company only accepted debit cards, not credit cards. It was clearly stated in the contract, but I didn’t take it seriously. Luckily, Alexandre had a professional debit card, but *double-check yours before you go*.
For the car, despite the super-low rental price, you’ll have to add fees if you plan to take a ferry (50 to 80 € depending on the agency).
On Mljet, the only supermarket in Pomena was closed. We had to drive 10 minutes to Polače for basics. For diapers, we had to go even farther. I only saw formula for newborns in small supermarkets—maybe you can find more in Dubrovnik or at a pharmacy. I ended up using regular milk for Artémis.
Health
No issues, and no one got sick. We swam in very accessible spots given the girls’ ages, but if you’re eyeing a gorgeous little cove, watch out for sea urchins—we saw a lot!
Portable DVD players for the plane and car, but we barely used them. The girls watched cartoons in English on TV.
Kidizoom cameras.
A few toys for Artémis.
Budget
We found Croatia expensive, and I imagine it’s even worse in summer. For restaurants, sightseeing, and groceries, expect to pay the same as—or more than—in France. On the other hand, flights were low-cost, and accommodations were reasonable. The rental car was almost a steal, even with the extra ferry fees.
Round-trip flight from Marseille: 583 €
Car for 8 days: 56 € (+50 € for ferry fees)
Accommodations (7 nights): 509 €
Sightseeing:
Mljet National Park entry: 15 €/adult for 2 days (boat to St. Mary’s included)
Arboretum: 10 €/adult
Dubrovnik walls: 35 €/adult
Ferry Pratpano-Mljet: 60 € round-trip
Trek in Northern Thailand
Hi everyone.
I’m planning a trip to Thailand for November.
We loved the treks we did in Laos, Vietnam, and Myanmar so much that we’d like to repeat the experience in Northern Thailand.
Most travelers who go trekking do it around Chiang Mai. But wouldn’t it be better to do it somewhere else (Chiang Rai?) to get a bit more authenticity?
Any tips would be welcome (agency, guide, route, etc.).
Thanks for your feedback!
First trip to Thailand, what itinerary?
Hello everyone,
I’m so happy Voyage Forum is back—it helped me plan trips (USA, Canada) a good ten years ago, and I love the quality of the discussions and the forum’s vibe. I’m currently putting together our itinerary for our first trip to Thailand from March 6th to 20th, arriving and departing from Bangkok, and I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice. I haven’t booked hotels or transfers yet. We’re traveling as a couple (ages 56 and 58). Our goal isn’t to "see it all" but to take our time. We love big cities, visiting museums, architecture, soaking up local life, walking, nature, swimming, and a bit of relaxation. Here’s how I’m envisioning the itinerary:
03/06: Departure 03/07: Arrival in Bangkok, night in Ayutthaya 03/08: Day in Ayutthaya, night in Bangkok 03/09: Exploring Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/10: Exploring Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/11: Departure for Ko Chang (flight, minibus, taxi?) 03/12: Ko Chang 03/13: Ko Chang 03/14: Ko Chang 03/15: Departure for Ko Kut 03/16: Ko Kut 03/17: Ko Kut 03/18: Return to Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/19: Bangkok 03/20: Departure at 1:00 AM
What do you think? Is it possible to add Khao Yai National Park to this itinerary and shorten the beach stay without rushing too much? Open to your comments, suggestions, and great tips—thanks in advance!
I’m so happy Voyage Forum is back—it helped me plan trips (USA, Canada) a good ten years ago, and I love the quality of the discussions and the forum’s vibe. I’m currently putting together our itinerary for our first trip to Thailand from March 6th to 20th, arriving and departing from Bangkok, and I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice. I haven’t booked hotels or transfers yet. We’re traveling as a couple (ages 56 and 58). Our goal isn’t to "see it all" but to take our time. We love big cities, visiting museums, architecture, soaking up local life, walking, nature, swimming, and a bit of relaxation. Here’s how I’m envisioning the itinerary:
03/06: Departure 03/07: Arrival in Bangkok, night in Ayutthaya 03/08: Day in Ayutthaya, night in Bangkok 03/09: Exploring Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/10: Exploring Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/11: Departure for Ko Chang (flight, minibus, taxi?) 03/12: Ko Chang 03/13: Ko Chang 03/14: Ko Chang 03/15: Departure for Ko Kut 03/16: Ko Kut 03/17: Ko Kut 03/18: Return to Bangkok, night in Bangkok 03/19: Bangkok 03/20: Departure at 1:00 AM
What do you think? Is it possible to add Khao Yai National Park to this itinerary and shorten the beach stay without rushing too much? Open to your comments, suggestions, and great tips—thanks in advance!
6 weeks in Cambodia in autumn 2023
We got back enchanted from a 6-week trip to Cambodia!
Our itinerary: Kampot - Kampong Chhnang - Battambang - Siem Reap - Kampong Cham - Sen Monorom (Mondulkiri) - Banlung (Ratanakiri) - Kratie - Kampong Thom - Phnom Penh.
We traveled by bus, minivan, boat (between Battambang and Siem Reap), overnight bus, scooter, tuk-tuk, and rickshaw for shorter distances. We stayed in guesthouses, homestays, and even in the jungle during a trek.
While the Angkor temples are fabulous, it’s the people you should visit Cambodia for—the "Land of Smiles" truly lives up to its nickname! Tourists gather in Angkor but are quite rare elsewhere, even though the country is easy to travel around.
I won’t describe our trip in detail but instead highlight a few favorite moments.
From Kampot, don’t hesitate to head out around 6 AM to see the fishermen return and their wives selling their catch (just 10 minutes away by the coast). Guaranteed picturesque!
In Battambang, known for its food scene, we discovered a cooking class with Smokin’ Pot (authentic Khmer cooking class). They pick you up from your guesthouse to shop for ingredients (we made fish amok and beef lok lak) at their village market, then cook and eat together. A private class—just the two of us! They also send the recipes via WhatsApp as a PDF. +855 12 821 400
In Siem Reap, I can recommend a francophone tuk-tuk driver who was very attentive to our wishes. We visited tourist spots but also more remote villages and local grilled-pork restaurants with him. He’s a wealth of information about local life, and chatting with him was a real pleasure—we left with regret! You can reach him on WhatsApp: Vung Hem, +855 96 614 0146.
We did a 2-day, 1-night trek in Mondulkiri. Don’t expect a super dense jungle—it looks more like a forest similar to ours. But Nara, our Bunong ethnic guide, made the experience adventurous and ultimately very immersive! WhatsApp +855 86 630 489
Bee Bee’s Chalets homestay: If you pass through Banlung in Ratanakiri, we *loved* this family and their budget-friendly bungalows. Playing Uno, enjoying Nita’s cooking (ask for her fish amok—amazing!), it was a true homestay experience! Contact Nita on WhatsApp: +855 88 818 5525.
In Kratie, rent a scooter and follow the Mekong north for 40 km at your own pace. Being so close to the locals was a treat! Same goes for heading south if you have time.
Kampong Thom: Head 25 km out to visit the pre-Angkorian temples of Sambor Prei Kuk. Around a hundred monuments spread across three sites… and hardly anyone there!
A few practical tips: Though prices are often listed in dollars, you can always pay in riels (1 USD = 4000 riels), which is what we preferred. PassApp: An app to book tuk-tuks or rickshaws (and most importantly, know the price upfront). Virak Buntham: A bus company connecting several cities, bookable online.
Feel free to ask me questions about places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
A few practical tips: Though prices are often listed in dollars, you can always pay in riels (1 USD = 4000 riels), which is what we preferred. PassApp: An app to book tuk-tuks or rickshaws (and most importantly, know the price upfront). Virak Buntham: A bus company connecting several cities, bookable online.
Feel free to ask me questions about places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!