Results for "Flers+|+127"

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Peru and have estimated how many days I’ll spend in each place. Any advice on must-see sights and tourist traps to avoid? September–October

5 days in Lima

Bus: 07:00→13:30 or 06:00 to 09:30 (express) (3 hr 30 min journey) 3 days in Paracas (beach)

3 days in Nazca

3 days in Arequipa

3 days in Puno (Lake Titicaca)

5 days in Cusco

Thanks in advance

Imagination or reality, fiction or true story. Everything blends together, and if the characters really existed, if their story is partly true, I freely transcribed what Surya told me in her English as precarious as mine. Have I already posted this on vf? I can't find it. Maybe on the small forum Wapiti created to continue our wild stories that went on for pages and pages and no longer pleased anyone on vf.

No matter.

I heard from Bavani—life is crazy, isn’t it?

That’s why I’m bringing her story back.

I’m settling into the -miscellaneous- section; I like being away from the noise.

When the house is overrun with running feet, laughter, arguments, and music, I go to the barn turned into a honey house. It’s cool, it smells of wax and honey, and among the disorder of hive frames, supers, and stacked jars, I refocus.

Here, in -miscellaneous-, no one rants. I can let my fingers glide over the keyboard in peace.

Alright, enough digressions. At the end of the notebook, I’ll tell you what became of this little girl.

Bavani

“Bavani, stop daydreaming, work.”

I’m not daydreaming, I’m thinking.

My teacher is Surya, and she asked us to write a story. She doesn’t like us—I heard her talking to the teacher in the little kids’ class. She said: I stay here because the white people pay better than in government schools, but it’s a shame to teach gypsies. Filthy street urchins.

I’m not a gypsy, I’m a Narikuravar. Grandmother told me: you’re going to this school, you’ll learn English well, and when you come back, you’ll be richer than the others because you’ll beg better from the tourists. Grandmother makes necklaces and sells them, but often she sells nothing at all.

There are lots of tourists in my town, Tiruvannamalai. Before, I lived behind the temple with dad and mom. We had our spot and were happy, especially when mom cooked rice on the brazier. Then we’d lie down, and I’d press my back against mom’s huge belly, and it would move inside. One day, mom told me: stay here, I’ll be back very soon. I waited a long time, and neither dad nor mom came back. After a long time, dad came, and we went to Salem to my grandmother, who’s dad’s mom.

I asked: where’s mom? “Shut up, two was too many.” “Two what? He didn’t say.”

So I went to Salem to grandmother’s hut, and there was no rice, and Muriga came to get me with his minibus. Now I live here. We eat several times a day—yellow rice, then white rice to digest, and eggs and bananas.

And we have to study.

Papom *

.../...

Papom: in common language, it’s the equivalent of -see ya-

Hello everyone,

I’m starting a travel journal about the amazing round trip I took in August 2022 with a big circuit through the US West.

Here’s what I posted on another travel forum back when VoyageForum hadn’t yet regained its freedom. 😉

Hello!

We got back yesterday in the middle of the afternoon, and here’s a quick first take on the 2022 round trip.

Has America changed? You could say that, yeah. For better? For worse? Who knows. A massive circuit—nearly 8,000 kilometers, actually around 5,000–6,000 miles.

Round-trip flights went smoothly, except for Air France on the way back, which let a rather large dog in the cabin with an owner who let it roam around the plane. Cool, Air France... Outrageous!

The rough itinerary: Salt Lake City. Jackson Hole–Grand Teton. Yellowstone. Cody. Rock Springs. Moab–Arches–Canyonlands. Monument Valley. Grand Canyon. Bryce Canyon. Zion Park. Las Vegas. Death Valley. Mammoth Lakes. Tioga Road. Mariposa. Yosemite Valley. San Francisco.

Tourists on site—a sociological study:

Italians: Always nice but just as loud as ever! Hispanics: Same as the Italians, just a different language. Germans: *Ein, zwei, ach mein Gott!* Order and discipline! Americans: Still no manners whatsoever. Pathetic. I’m only talking about the tourists, not the locals who work there. Quebecers: Pure joy! English-speaking Canadians: Same as the Americans. Asians: For the Japanese, it’s perfect. But the others from the Middle Kingdom... Let’s not start a war over this. There’s already Ukraine going on. And yet... Israelis: Still no manners. The Kibbutz kids are the bane of this country. French: Some excellent, some very good, some good, and some... not much.

Note that tourists in the northern part of the trip were much better behaved than those in the south. "Hello," "Goodbye," offering a hand? Etc. Few Asians in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Lots of locals. The same goes for hotel staff in the northern part—more attentive. Really cool!

On the other hand, we were pretty surprised not to encounter any African-American locals in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, or even Arizona—whether tourists or employees. It’s quite striking, to be honest.

The Hotels:

Holiday Inn - 206 South West Temple, Salt Lake City, UT 84101, United States. A modern but soulless hotel. Basically, a place to pass through. Minimal breakfast.

Miller Park Lodge - 155 North Jackson Street - Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Not a hotel but a luxury motel. 750 € for two nights!! No breakfast. Huge room where you could hold a tea dance!! Well-located. No staff. Only room of the month-long stay that was fully redone during those two days.

Best Western Weston Inn. 103 Gibbon Avenue, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 Well-located, not far from the park entrance. Minimal breakfast. Friendly staff. Room refreshed every two days.

Best Western Sunset Inn. 1601 8th St, Cody, 82414-4134 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff.

Baymont by Wyndham 2717 Dewar Drive, Rock Springs, WY 82901 Very good. Quiet. Good breakfast. Friendly staff. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!

Wingate by Wyndham Moab. 126 South Highway 191, Moab, 84532 End of the "family" hotels. Start of the tourist hotels. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.

Hampton Inn Kayenta. US Highway 160, Kayenta, AZ 86033, United States A stopover hotel run by the Navajos. Friendly staff wearing masks. Lots of people. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.

La Quinta by Wyndham Williams. 1100 Cataract Lake Rd, Williams, AZ 86046, United States Finally, Route 66 for 500 meters! The staff is there. Nothing more. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Minimal breakfast.

BEST WESTERN PLUS Ruby's Inn. 26 South Main Street, Bryce Canyon City, UT 84764, United States A factory!!! Great Hispanic or Romanian staff! A liquor store in the hotel! Awesome! Very good breakfast, but go early because the crowd—and the jerks—are there! Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene!

BEST WESTERN Casino Royale - 3411 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Strip, Las Vegas Good hotel at a reasonable price. No breakfast, but Denny’s is next door. Quiet hotel despite the casino. Friendly staff. No memory of seeing any pets!

Shilo Inn Mammoth Lake. 2963 Main Street, Mammoth Lake Disastrous! Ineffective security system. Fire doors propped open with wooden wedges. Tiny breakfast room. No staff in the room. Tables not cleaned. Minimal breakfast. Gross pool. Rooms need work. No, the whole hotel needs to be redone. They say they’re renovating. They’d be better off tearing it down. Too many pets that should be "not allowed." Hello, hygiene! Very bad memory. Apparently, there’s supposed to be staff in this hotel.

Quality Inn Yosemite Valley Gateway. 4994 Bullion Street, Mariposa, CA 95338 Hotel or motel? Booking should clean up its listings! No room refresh! Minimal breakfast. The staff is there. Nothing more.

Comfort Inn by the Bay. 775 Van Ness Avenue, Marina District, San Francisco No room refresh in four days! Minimal breakfast. Friendly and helpful staff. Well-located. Depends on what for, but well-located.

And then there are those who steal apples from the breakfast to put in their bags in the morning, those who fill up their famous US water bottles with orange juice from the breakfast pump, those who don’t clear their tables—I could go on. And also, those who don’t say hello or respond to a greeting!

Met some super nice French people (in the northern parks)! They’ll recognize themselves!

And the magic phrase that opens doors with Americans: "Do you speak French? OK, good!" Laughter guaranteed!

Don’t try that with Asians who run souvenir shops in big cities—they have no sense of humor unless it’s about the color of the green bill.

The park rangers are always available! Great!

And 5,000 photos to sort and organize, plus a few hours of dashcam videos!

See you soon.

Until the next update...

I’m heading to Nepal at the end of April 2026 with my brother, the two kids, and my mom. My mom is 75, in good shape, she walks but isn’t a big sports enthusiast. My daughter is 16, she’s not really into hiking but with the right vibe, she’ll step up. I’m looking for a 5-6 day trek that’s not too difficult—around 4-5 hours of walking and 500-600m of elevation gain per day. What’s our goal? Well, like everyone, we’d love something not too crowded. We want to experience Nepali village life away from the main routes—terraced fields, all that. Some encounters, authenticity, sharing... And if we can catch a glimpse of some high peaks, even better. Any suggestions?

Another fresh travel journal!

The context: For my 60th birthday, I had planned to take my family (kids + partners) for a week in Gran Canaria, at an all-inclusive hotel, but with the firm intention of exploring and hiking. The deal was to meet up at least in the evenings to spend time together, if my pace didn’t suit them. Personally, I’m not into beaches and lazing around, but my daughter-in-law is pretty cool. We were going to be together, do what we liked, and all would be well. Unfortunately, five days before departure, my mother-in-law passed away, and of course, we had to cancel everything. I was able to get a refund for a lot of things, including the hotel despite missing the free cancellation deadline (really cool of them), and I got a one-year credit for the full price of the flight tickets. So, we tried to plan the same thing for my kids, but with their schedules, we couldn’t find a date. I had to find a destination served by Iberia, far enough to use up my credit. We don’t know the Caribbean, we needed sun and a bit of rest, so the Dominican Republic won out. But no way were we going to mess up by staying in an all-inclusive hotel and only visiting the island’s paradise beaches… (we’ll get back to that). So, as usual, I put together a little road trip with a rental car.

Here we go!!!!

Day 1: Crossing the Atlantic Super early departure for Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport. A 3-hour layover in Madrid (my wife’s had enough of flight delays, so I played it safe). Flight to Santo Domingo without any issues. The luggage arrived, the driver I’d booked was there, everything went smoothly. We got to our hotel in the Zona Colonial around 4 PM. Bad luck—it’s on a cute little square where there was supposed to be neighborhood activity in the evening. It’s completely under construction! Too bad! We decided to head to the Malecón, a sort of local Promenade des Anglais, except there are no English people. It’s nice, safe, spacious, and by the ocean. We walked for a while, and as happy hour rolled around, I started my training as an intern in rum-based cocktails. A mojito, classic, but it’s amazing to be sipping the drink in the warmth, right by the big blue. On the way back to the hotel, we grabbed some bananas, ate them in the room, and then bedtime.

The plus: We actually left! The minus: There isn’t one

Ah! This trip to Texas, postponed so many times because of Covid. I wanted to discover this state, but not in the summer due to the temperatures. I’ll try to dig into my memories since I didn’t take any notes.

Day 1: Departure

Early morning flight from Lyon to Frankfurt (I often fly with Lufthansa). We only have a 50-minute layover, but I trust German organization—it’s not just talk, since it took us only 30 minutes to get to the boarding gate. Arriving in Houston, we’re excited because it’s been 3 years since we last visited the USA, and we’ve missed it.

Everything goes smoothly with the formalities and the car rental, so 1.5 hours after landing, I park near Sam Houston Park to start our discovery. The park is pretty, clean, and has the unique feature of housing some well-preserved Victorian houses. The sun is shining, and it’s always fun to see old wooden houses surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. A quick drive to the Rothko Chapel, which is dedicated to all faiths. There are also modern artworks in an annex building and outside. Then we head to Pasadena to reach our hotel and go to bed since we’ve been awake for a while!

Hotel: A classic Days Inn. It’s standard, but the beds are comfortable, and it’s a quiet place. The + of the day: We're back in the USA The -: Nothing

Day 2: NASA and then Galveston

Of course, we wake up super early. A quick trip to the nearby Walmart for the usual small purchases. Surprise—I can’t buy a bottle of California white wine because in Texas, there are set hours for buying alcohol. Talk about a bummer for my apéro! Next, we head to Kemah, a small, hyper-touristy port where everything is kitschy but clean and nice. It’s a bit overdone, but since NASA doesn’t open until 10 AM and it’s still early, we might as well enjoy the good weather in a pleasant spot.

We arrive at the NASA Houston center without any issues. It’s smaller than the one in Florida and organized a bit differently. There are trains that take passengers to the different sites, but you need to get tickets (included in the price), and once you’ve finished visiting one site, you have to return to the center to get a ticket for another. Not very practical.

We choose to visit the training center and the rockets, skipping the control room, which, based on the photos, looks like the one at Cape Canaveral. The training center is a cool place because it’s still in use. Engineers are working on machines and computers. We don’t see any astronauts training, but we see the space chair, the shuttle’s robotic arm, and lots of gadgets—this hangar is like Gyro Gearloose’s or Doc’s domain!

Next, we head to the rocket hangar, featuring the Saturn V, the same one as at Cape Canaveral. Finally, we wrap up our tour by returning to the center, where a Boeing 747 with a shuttle attached to its back dominates the outside. We can visit the shuttle, and we don’t miss the chance.

A few exhibits inside complete the experience and satisfy our thirst for knowledge. I love the space exploration era, and gotta say, the Americans do it right. Then we drive to Galveston, about 100 km away. Why Galveston? It’s by the sea, so swimming in late October isn’t unpleasant, and there’s a neighborhood called East End Historic District filled with stunning Victorian houses, each more beautiful than the last. Plus, it’s Halloween season, so the decorations are over the top! They really go all out!

Madame takes a swim, but I find the water too cold for my taste. Apéro (they didn’t trick me twice—I had time to go back to another Walmart!) Dinner + bedtime

Hotel: A classic Quality Inn. No issues. The +: NASA, even if it’s smaller than Cape Canaveral The -: I would’ve preferred the water in the Gulf of Mexico to be a bit warmer

Why Colombia? It's quite simple. For the past few years, my daughter has been living with a Colombian from Bogotá. The idea was to discover his country, meet his family, and do part of the trip all four of us together. We’re heading out first as scouts, then they’ll join us to continue the journey. The itinerary was shared in another post—now it’s time for the impressions. No photos, as for me, it’s video and nothing more!

Day 1: The big departure What was planned: A flight from Lyon Saint-Exupéry late morning heading to Frankfurt. Two hours of waiting in Frankfurt (just enough time to eat a pretzel!!) and then off to Bogotá for an arrival around 7 PM local time. I hadn’t done the Check-Mig (to be done 72 hours before the flight). I did it on my phone, giving a fake arrival date in Colombia, and the attendant told me there wouldn’t be any issues in Bogotá. Actually, two hours of delay at departure in Lyon because a sick passenger was on the plane—they had to evacuate him, and the ambulance that was supposed to be there didn’t have permission to come near the plane. Ah, French administrative formalities!!!!! Flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa went smoothly. A sprint through the airport—very well organized. Connection secured, so we boarded the plane, and two hours later than scheduled, we took off for an 11-hour flight! Arrival in Bogotá, and the immigration process took over an hour and a half because of the crowds. However, no issues with the Check-Mig—they barely glanced at it. Our daughter’s father-in-law ended up waiting over 3 hours at the airport because of this!!! Surprise: No luggage. Luckily, we had packed essentials in our carry-ons! Quick administrative paperwork, and Lufthansa informed me our bags would be on the next flight, so no big deal. Off to our hotel in La Candelaria and a good night’s rest.

The plus: We’re in Bogotá! The minus: Flight delays are becoming more and more common.

Hi there, I’m finalizing the itinerary for my trip to Namibia in October and would love to get it validated by you, the experts. I’ll be traveling by 4x4 with a rooftop tent.

Here’s the itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Windhoek Night in REHOBOTH or nearby

Day 2: Rehoboth to Stampriet

Day 3: Road to Sesriem

Day 4: Head to Sossusvlei/Sesriem Canyon

Day 5: Road to Walvis Bay

Day 6: Day in Walvis Bay

Day 7: Head to Spitzkoppe

Day 8: Direction Cape Cross then Brandberg

Day 9: Brandberg, Twyfelfontein, Palmwag

Day 10: Palmwag

Day 11: Head to Etosha Day 12: Etosha

Day 13: Head to Waterberg after morning safari

Day 14: Full day at Waterberg

Day 15: Return to Windhoek for flight at 8:30 PM

What do you think? I’m open to all suggestions!

Thanks

Hello,

A few months ago, I posted a message in the Southern Africa section about a family trip in July/August. In the end, since I had too much trouble deciding on the destination and procrastinated too much with the planning 😎, I changed my mind and we’re going for a completely different trip—to Madagascar, a country we already know a bit since we’ve traveled there several times for 4 to 6 months each time, though our last visit was back in 2012!

The tickets are booked: 19 days on the ground (excluding arrival and departure days in Tana), spanning July and August.

We’re not looking to rack up landscapes (and kilometers). The kids really want to see lots of animals, while we mostly want to show them what daily life is like in Malagasy villages. So ideally, we’d like a trip split into two parts: - For 8/10 days, a hiking portion. The idea isn’t to do a tough trek in very remote areas but rather to walk from one village to another. Let’s say 3-4 hours a day. And when we arrive in each village, we’d have time to explore a bit, chat with the locals, let our kids play with the village children, etc. Stay with locals when possible. Move to a new village every day or every 2-3 days. - A few days visiting 1 or 2 national parks (with lemurs if possible to keep everyone happy!) - With the inevitable travel days, we’ll quickly hit 19 days.

Does this kind of trip sound doable (and fun) to you? Do you know of any villages that would fit our hiking plans?

I don’t have a preferred region yet, except that very dry landscapes appeal to me less. My real love from past trips was the highlands and their bright green rice paddies against red earth, but I’m a bit worried about the cold at this time of year.

After my initial research (thanks to this forum), I get the impression that the Ambalavao/Ambohimahamasina area might meet our criteria. I saw there are "accueil paysan" (farm stays) in that area, which could match what we’re looking for and would let us visit Andringitra National Park and Ranomafana on the way there or back.

But I’m open to all your more original ideas!

For logistical questions (transport, guides, accommodations, etc.), I’ll tackle those later—it’ll depend on the area we choose.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions

Hello, I need some advice because I can't decide on an itinerary. We're going to join our son around September 20th, who's spending a year in Canada on a working holiday visa. I did the classic Quebec loop over 30 years ago, so I’m ruling out the Saguenay Fjord and Lac Saint-Jean right away. Here are the stops (overnights) I’ve tentatively planned:

D1-2-3: Quebec City D4: Malbaie Gorges National Park via Routes 360 and 362 D5: Malbaie Gorges National Park (fishing and canoeing) D6: Tadoussac (walks and whale watching from the shore, hiking up to Cap du Bon Désir) D7: Whale-watching zodiac excursion – ferry – Bic National Park D8: Bic National Park D9: Carleton-sur-Mer via the Matapedia Valley D10: Percé D11: Percé (Bonaventure Island excursion) D12: Forillon National Park D13: Forillon National Park D14: Sainte-Anne-des-Monts via Route 132 D15: Sainte-Anne-des-Monts (Gaspésie National Park) D16: Kamouraska D17: Quebec City D18-19-20: Montreal

I feel like one night in Tadoussac is too short. Wouldn’t it be better to add another night there and only spend one night in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, skipping Gaspésie National Park? Just to clarify, we love nature and hiking but limit ourselves to about 10 km per day.

Also, I’m wondering about the distances (even though I tried to keep them reasonable), the short stops (max 2 nights except in Quebec City and Montreal, so not much time to settle in), and the weather in Gaspésie in late September-October (my husband doesn’t handle the cold well). Maybe it’d be better to only go as far as Bic National Park, then head back, and add more nights at Malbaie Gorges National Park (I didn’t stay in a park on my first trip, and my son, who got his fishing license, would be proud to bring us dinner 😊), Tadoussac, and maybe around Bic/Rimouski?

One last detail: the plan is to land in Quebec City, rent a car on D4, return it on D17, and take the train or bus to Montreal the next day, where we’ll catch our flight 4 days later. This is to cut down on rental costs and avoid having a car in Quebec City.

Thanks for reading this far—I hope I can count on your advice! 😊

Claire

Alright, I'm diving into this Hawaiian travel journal! I hope lots of you will follow along because the destination is absolutely charming. 🙂 Just a heads-up—I might take a while to finish it.

The trip took place from February 20th to March 3rd, 2025 (11 days total, with 9 days on-site). It was a trip with my friend Christelle, with whom I’ve already traveled to Iceland and Morocco in recent years. We’re totally on the same wavelength, with the same expectations and desires, which makes things a lot easier (and, as a bonus, it helps cut down the final bill). Being the generous soul I am, I asked Christelle which country she wanted to visit. Her answer: Asia, since I’ve never been, or Namibia... Hawaii is basically the same thing, right?!! All thanks to the search comparator—I stumbled upon round-trip tickets from Paris to Honolulu for 580 € per person during school holidays, with a layover in Canada (I don’t get to choose my vacation dates). We jumped on it on August 28th (didn’t take much convincing). For info, I always check flight tickets during the last week of August or the first half of September because there are always amazing deals.

Nine days on-site is short, so we had to make some tough choices for the islands we’d visit (I’m only listing the main ones): - Oahu: the most urbanized but also home to Honolulu, Pearl Harbor, and some stunning beaches.

Kauai: the Garden Isle. It’s the island from *Jurassic Park*, with lush vegetation—so it’s pretty rainy. Big Island: volcanoes, volcanoes, and more, but also things like night snorkeling with manta rays. Maui: very touristy, with a magnificent volcano, the Road to Hana, and the ultimate spot for whale watching (and we were there right in the middle of whale season).

We limited ourselves to two islands to avoid rushing, and in the end, we picked Kauai (non-negotiable) and Oahu (which saved us an extra domestic flight and, since we were there in winter, let us experience the BIG WAVES on the North Shore). We would’ve loved to visit Big Island, but we’d already seen volcanoes in Iceland, and the island is huge—we just didn’t have enough time. Maui was recently hit by a major wildfire and is also the most expensive island (along with Kauai). We were really hoping to see humpback whales (my favorite animal) on both Oahu and Kauai. Hawaii is far, and it’s worth the effort. The journey went smoothly. I took a 40-minute bus ride and a 1h32 RER trip just to get to Roissy, then a 9h15 flight to Calgary, with a two-hour layover before a 6h45 flight to Honolulu. 11 hours of time difference, arriving at 10 PM local time. And you know what? (spoiler alert) I’d do it a thousand times if I got the chance.

Alright, let’s go—here we go!

Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.



.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:



Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:



I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...



On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.





Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??



A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:





Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!



When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...

This first trip of 2025 will have the taste of Asia.

More precisely, Thailand!

It’s not my first time—I’ve often traveled across Southeast Asia between 2000 and 2015. (This travel journal, for example...)

But it’ll be my partner’s first steps in this part of the world.

The itinerary we’ve chosen will alternate between familiar sights for me and new discoveries for both of us.

I’ll get to see how the country has changed in 20 years—and what’s stayed the same!

We were torn between the north and the south of the kingdom. Fears of smoke from slash-and-burn farming and a desire to relax on the sand tipped the scales toward the south...

What if we rented a car?

I think driving in sprawling Bangkok would be a bit ambitious, so we’ll only book our vehicle from Hua Hin to return it in Surat Thani.

Other transportation will range from tuk-tuks to overnight trains and ride-hailing services.

And of course, the plane!

I’d love to travel from Auvergne to Bangkok by road, but 15 days wouldn’t be enough...

Plus, the current geopolitical situation isn’t exactly favorable...

So, once again, we’ll be stuck for hours in the less-than-comfortable economy class of Qatar Airways.

The arrival time was on schedule, entry formalities were quick, and all our luggage made it.

We left Lyon in wind and cold—now we’re breathing in the warm, humid air of กรุงเทพมหานคร.

To reach our hotel, we first took the metro, which dropped us off in the city center in about 30 minutes for the incredible price of 1.18 €.

A few taps on the GRAB app, and we booked a ride-hailing service for the last few kilometers.

We waited a while for our driver due to insane traffic in the area, but once in the 4x4, we were at our lodging in no time.

We chose this small hotel for its riverside location, tranquility, and price.

It’ll do the job perfectly—the only downside is the weak breakfast.

The room is inviting, and we collapse onto the bed for a well-deserved short nap.

Wake-up call in an hour for our first visits!

See you soon...

Hello everyone! This trip dates back to late 2021, but since Voyage Forum reopened for writing, I haven’t seen many travel journals about Tanzania, so I decided to repost this one, which I originally shared on another well-known travelers’ site—even though I prefer Voyage Forum’s user experience. It’s also a chance for me to relive this exhilarating trip... So, if you’re up for it, let me take you on a classic adventure: Tarangire - Ngorongoro - Serengeti, plus a little bonus—the small Arusha Park. First off, yes, as the title of this journal suggests, we were lucky enough to spot *tons* of lions. The power they exude is incredible, even if most of the time they just look like big cats napping or strolling around. But lock eyes with one, and you’ll be glad you’re in the jeep.

But let’s not forget the rest of the wildlife—and the landscapes, which are absolutely stunning, with those iconic tree silhouettes.







I remember before leaving, I was a little worried I wouldn’t feel that same sense of wonder I’d experienced two years earlier in Botswana (see my travel journal). That fear was unfounded—the magic worked its charm once again! Note: Since we had limited time, we focused our trip entirely on safari, so this journal is 100% animals and landscapes—and 0% Maasai. Next post: TARANGIRE

Hi everyone, We (two adults, 74 and 70 years old) had already shared a travel journal about our first trip to the Philippines in February/March 2019 on this forum (https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9377175;search_string=carnet%20philippines). We had visited Manila, the Banaue rice terraces, Sagada, the Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, Dumaguette), and on our way back to Luzon, the Taal volcano before returning to France. Delighted by this trip, organized by the French-speaking agency Alizé, we decided to further explore this beautiful country, this time focusing on Coron and Palawan. Before writing this journal, I should mention that these are personal comments and don’t reflect any differing opinions. Without any literary or photographic talent, I’ll stick to the facts and share a few details about the visits, hotels, and restaurants.

Preparations

We decided to return in mid-January 2025 and consulted three French-speaking tour operators to create a trip based on our wishes (places to visit, type of accommodation) and budget. Comparing three operators helped us weigh their advice and make our choices. Only our first operator respected the budget, a second came close, and the third proposed a slightly more upscale trip. In the end, we chose the agency from our first trip. Our discussions helped refine our itinerary, and when we reviewed it point by point, the document provided was perfect, full of great tips. The most debated point was a 3-day, 2-night cruise between Coron and Palawan. We were tempted but worried about being the only "older" travelers among younger people and feared two uncomfortable nights. Reassured by our tour operator, we finally opted for this "exploration." We’ll come back to that later. Once the choice was made and dates set, we booked our international flights with Cathay Pacific for 750 € per person, which offers the best schedules (short layovers) at an acceptable price for flights arriving in Cebu. Our trip started on February 25 and returned to Paris on March 15.

International flights

The round-trip flights went smoothly. Cathay does the job well, without frills. The service quality seems to have slightly declined compared to our previous trips with them. Hong Kong Airport is huge but very practical. Note that not all airlines serve Cebu. Recommendation: Fill out your Philippine entry form within 72 hours before your flight. This can prevent issues with the airline (possible boarding refusal) and saves a lot of time upon arrival (see the Philippine embassy website).

Domestic flights

For our two domestic flights—Cebu to Coron and Puerto Princesa to Cebu—our tour operator chose Philippine Airlines and their propeller planes. No problems there.

Day 1: We landed around 12 PM (local time) after 17 hours of travel. A driver was waiting for us at the airport exit and took us to our hotel, intentionally chosen near the airport (Mandaue, about 10 minutes away) to help us recover and get a good night’s sleep before our early morning domestic flight the next day. The Mayoo Hotel, reasonably priced, was perfect for this. Large, beautiful room in a new building—clean, comfortable, with a spa. We could relax by the pool on the 16th floor and enjoy the city view. The breakfast was exceptional, and the staff was smiling, attentive, and helpful. An ATM in the lobby allowed for withdrawals. However, the hotel is in a neighborhood with nothing to see or do. We dined at the Korean restaurant K-GOGI across from the hotel—a real attraction and a great discovery.

Day 2: After a restful night, we were driven to the airport around 6:30 AM for an 8:10 AM flight from Cebu to Busuanga (Coron).



The flight was uneventful. Upon arrival, we paid 200 pesos per person for the Coron tourist fee before a 40-minute transfer to our hotel: Natura Resort, located outside the city in a secluded spot. The setting is stunning—a beautifully maintained tropical garden, a pleasant pool, and the option to book massages. The cottages are tropical-style with thatched roofs, simple and unpretentious.



The owner, who speaks French, told us that given the heat and our ages, climbing the 721 steps to the top of Mount Tapyas wasn’t necessary. She gave us a few rooftop recommendations to watch the sunset over Coron Bay. After a good swim in the pool and a meal at the resort’s pleasant restaurant, we hired a tricycle to go into town. We were told it costs 150 pesos one way, and depending on the return time, it could exceed 250 pesos. But our driver gave us his WhatsApp number and charged the same price regardless of the time. He just earned two days’ worth of customers. He dropped us off at the port where bangkas (local boats) gather for day trips. It was the end of the day, so there was a rush. A few shops around the port sold waterproof bags for marine excursions at reasonable prices (compared to back home), after some bargaining. We wandered the town’s alleys looking for the Top Hotel, whose rooftop is famous. Indeed, it’s perfectly located to admire the sunset and enjoy a refreshing drink.







We dined nearby at a small Chinese restaurant, then just had to call our driver to head back. The night wasn’t entirely restful—our hotel had a soundtrack of all the countryside animals, and it seemed they had no set bedtime! :

Dear members of this forum,

*With the pandemic, travel guides were replaced by cookbooks. With lockdown, there’s no need for the *Guía del Trotamundos*—the cookbook is gospel, and your daily life turns into a *Spaghetti Western*. It’s no longer about good and bad actors but good and bad fats. And for a few extra pinches of salt. To the tune of Ennio Morricone, it’s hard to diagnose pastalogy—sorry, the pathology—you’re suffering from. Italy, now confined, and pasta—no more aimless gondola rides on Venice’s canals or *Dolce Vita* weekends in Rome. The beauty of the soul blends with minestrone preparation.

*With the pandemic, Professor Didier Raoult became the new Christ-like figure; like the Indira Gandhi of medicine, like Moses showing the way to the people across the Dead Sea, for tormented souls, the value of a medical prescription doesn’t wait for the years to pass. And plexiglass reigned over the world.

*With the pandemic and gender theory, in particular, pushing us to become androgynous, hermaphroditic beings—*patatras*—the Colossi of Rhodes we are waver because of a tiny nuisance.

*Phew, the pandemic has receded... but watch out for a new swine flu pandemic, because on this forum, it’ll be followed by long-winded rants. Political/historical revisionism with such a pandemic—Fidel Castro wouldn’t have been able to invade the *Bahía de los Cochinos*. And that’s where his comrade Ernesto *Che* Guevara becomes a perfect scam. A fierce opponent of capitalist ideology, yet many clothing sellers got rich selling T-shirts with his face on them.

*Neutrality and the Helvetic underground. Last summer, I found myself passing the *Chalet Gaillard* deep in the *Forêt du Risoux* in the Jura, then crossing the border into the Canton of Vaud on foot. My disappointment was great: no sign indicating we were in neutral territory. And what kind of neutrality are we talking about? Since neutrality is an abstract concept. It’s like those visitors eager to see Calais who, spotting the sign for the *Pas-de-Calais* department, turn around on the road.

*There’s always a traveler quick to recommend a local guide. I know an excellent guide named Michel who lives in Cairo—Michel of Cairo. He has a truck and takes you to see the pharaoh’s ruins by truck. Still, be careful—good guides aren’t that common, because there are only eight Cairenes.

*The mix between large mammals and humans. Or how infantilism rules the world. The ultimate quest for happiness is petting rhinos in Nepal—we’ll confirm if this kind of animal is visible on the streets of Sauraha, a town near Chitwan National Park. The downside of this animal? It takes up too much space as a pet—better to raise a Yorkshire terrier in your modest apartment.

*I’m tired of recurring topics like, *‘Do I have time for my connection at New York airport?’* Aren’t you? There’s the discussion about *Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*—*Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu*, God bless you. In the name of the Father, the taxman, and the Holy Spirit, don’t miss your connection. *Gare de Lyon-Part-Dieu*—apparently, a great French actor, Gérard de Part-Dieu, was born there. If you think you’ll miss your connection, just get rich and fly private. The working masses of the *lumpenproletariat*—they dare everything, that’s how you recognize them.

*Experts in non-events: learning that some members don’t like Spanish-speaking countries because, supposedly, the people are too loud. That’s it, I’m not going to China anymore—too many stairs on the Great Wall. So, too bad, I’m not going. It’s like two people crossing paths—one asks, *‘Going fishing?’* and the other says no. These experts are probably natives of Arles, because with people like that, it’s *l’Arlésienne*...

*The art of taking selfies at every turn. You’d think it’s an ancient practice, almost an anthropological ritual—everything suggests it dates back to prehistoric times. Back in the days of the Lascaux caves, instead of photographing the meal they were about to eat (it’s crazy how many food photos we see on this forum, especially in travel journals), prehistoric men and women could only make cave paintings. From there, it’s only a small step to conclude that cave art was nothing more than the menu served in caves that doubled as *Buffalo Grills* long before the chain existed. By the way, if you want to visit the caves, ask for a guide named Josiane. When it comes to parietal art skills, Josiane beats Lascaux... (Only the French on this forum will get that one.)

*Mythology of an object: the suitcase (a nod to Mr. Éric Libiot, whose columns I enjoy) An object that gets lost during a flight, especially during a transfer at an airport. And it’s stuffed to the brim with clothes and other useless items, like Mickey Mouse slippers. You’re in despair: when going through customs, the officers find those slightly risqué photos hidden in your laundry, taken at Cap d’Agde on a naturist beach. The suitcase is an object that makes noise when rolling because of its wheels—you’re quickly spotted.

*Hurry up and visit New York while you still can. Because of *Woke* ideology, more and more statues are being torn down, and the Statue of Liberty will likely meet the same fate. *Queer* culture isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.

*The Dead Poets Society I admired the beautiful photos of Venice, and *click*—I check the new discussions when I come across one where Mr. J.M.B. offers money loans. This person probably works at the Ministry of Finance and risks loosening the purse strings of your wallets.

*Toward the independence of New Caledonia: will we call it *Nouvelle Nouvelle-Calédonie*? From what I know, Chinese authorities want to settle there and invest; apparently, they want to send (fake) tourists—facsimiles of real travelers. So, it’ll be hard to separate the wheat from the chaff (the *ivraie* tourists).

*There’s a topic about hitchhiking in Scotland: apparently, Scots are very welcoming people. I imagine arriving at Aberdeen Airport to a typical welcoming committee—men in kilts and a bagpiper playing. Just like arriving in Papeete, where you’re greeted with flower leis—*Aloha! (Jacta Est)*. To attract tourists, Scottish cities will end up installing whisky vending machines.

*Eskimo pies banned for sale because of *cancel culture*—you can’t go to Iqaluit anymore. Panicked, ice cream manufacturers had to revise their *packaging*—sorry for the anglicism. Because of *cancel culture*, we can no longer say *Eskimo* without it being pejorative. The identity of the Arctic people of the same name takes a hit—it’s crazy how *bien-pensance* wreaks havoc in our minds... We can’t even bite into a chocolate *Eskimo* pie anymore.

*Diplomatic tensions between France and Australia: and there goes the submarine sale project, canceled. Given that the cost of these machines is a fifth of Australia’s public finances budget, it’s tough to pay in didgeridoos and kangaroo skins.

Thanks for reading, and see you soon for more chronicles.

Three of our grandchildren came to spend the last weekend of the holidays at our house. With her driver’s license just in hand, the oldest took her sister and a cousin along. I was talking about VoyageForum, and the conversation turned to AI, which finds writing travel journals a breeze—churning out amazing ads for this or that country and even nudging tourists to visit one place over another.

Jules: "It’s crazy, you can plan and organize everything, then just add your photos and the AI’s text, and boom—you’ve got something great." Héloïse: "What a cheat for yourself and for others." (She’s so wise!) Gaïané: "Ugh, no more surprises. It even picks the restaurants—so lame."

I had this idea to stay on the theme of travel journals:

I found an excerpt from a book (I’ll let you guess the title and author—of course, the kids figured it out in two seconds with their phones), then I wrote my own version, and finally, the AI generated its own using a few keywords.

Here they are:

"We walked at dusk through the thick, dark forest. Sometimes, a clearing would reveal a dreamlike landscape. A magical world, far from humans. A world of frozen waterfalls, stiff fir trees, and sharp peaks slicing through the blinding whiteness of the air.

We gazed, dazzled, at the spectacle, imagining we’d left the human world behind and joined that of the spirits."

"For days, we walked through the half-darkness of dense, untouched forests, then suddenly, a clearing would unveil landscapes you only see in dreams. Sharp peaks piercing the sky, icy torrents, giant waterfalls—an entire fantastical world, blindingly white, rising above the dark line traced by the giant fir trees. We stared at this extraordinary sight, speechless, awestruck, ready to believe we’d reached the limits of the human world and stood at the threshold of the spirits’ realm."

"We walked through the mountain, wild and unyielding, its sharp peaks tearing the sky like honed blades. Giant waterfalls roared and foamed, as if the earth’s hidden forces were pouring out. Higher still, the blinding whiteness belonged to the world of spirits—capricious beings whispering to lost travelers. Faced with this silent vastness, we felt tiny, uninvited guests meditating on the invisible that dwells in these forbidden peaks."

And, amazingly, they unanimously agreed that the author’s excerpt was a thousand times more poetic. Héloïse, my history buff, said: "Nothing replaces the real travel experience." Jules said: "Yeah, but it does the job. Even if the excerpt is cool." And our oldest added: "It makes you want to go there—not at all like the other two versions. Sorry, Mamido."

And then, miracle—Jules asks: "Do you have the book? Can I borrow it?"

I’m so relieved—young people aren’t completely devoured by technology yet. And the forum will keep its charm and usefulness for a long time. Phew!

You agree, right?

My train to Mathura is at 2 PM, and we’ll arrive an hour late—all good. I booked a hotel on booking, but unfortunately, it’s really far from the ghats. Walking there is out of the question—what a shame. The hotel itself is fine, and there are several restaurants right across the street, which will be handy for dinner. This won’t be an exception, though—starting at 10 PM, they must wake up because I can hear them talking loudly, and music is playing along. My room faces the entrance, so it’s going to be tough. At midnight, I ask them to lower the volume, but they don’t listen. By 1 AM, I lose my temper, and this time, everything stops. Finally, I can get some sleep—until 4 AM, when they start up again for a little while before quiet returns until 6 AM. But when do they sleep? The noise never seems to bother them—it’s unbelievable, and I’m finding it harder and harder to tolerate. It makes a huge difference. The next morning, as I leave, they tell me they’ll give me another room for the following night. Oh, two nights like that wouldn’t be possible—I’m exhausted. I head out to explore the ghats and take a rickshaw, which I share with a family, to Vrindavan, a city of temples dedicated to Krishna. I visit several while wandering through the lively streets, surrounded by a crowd of devotees. By 1 PM, I’m near the Bankey Bihari Temple, but I can’t go in—it just closed. Nearby, there are restaurants, so I take the opportunity to grab my usual aloo paratha with a lassi.





The work women do here is incredibly hard, and their pay must be miserable.



I want to leave Vrindavan for Govardhan. Two young guys on a motorcycle in front of the temple approach me, and the driver offers to take me part of the way. I’m pretty skeptical, but he insists, and I eventually agree. I didn’t fully understand what was happening. Once on the bike, his friend hops on too, and suddenly I’m sandwiched between them for a multi-kilometer ride—*travel Indian-style*. We quickly drop off the friend, and I breathe easier for the rest of the trip. At an intersection, he stops—Govardhan is straight ahead, but to get to his village, he needs to turn right. We wait for the bus for a few minutes, and he flags it down so I can hop on and continue my journey. What an adventure.





the neighbor with its beautiful dome.

The Afrosiyob races through a premature twilight, lashed by a blizzard of thick snow. In the endless gray, a monumental industrial complex occasionally emerges, ghostly. Here and there, in the middle of nowhere, a human silhouette appears (a soldier?), standing motionless by the tracks. On the screen mounted in the middle of the ceiling, a dashing Bollywood cat in vibrant colors writhes in all directions, throwing smoldering glances at a dancer on the verge of fainting. A server moves down the central aisle, offering crepes for sale—ones I suspect are stuffed with ground beef. I’m in Central Asia, in Uzbekistan, somewhere between Bukhara and Samarkand.

I chose the title "notes"—scattered thoughts, rough drafts. I’m not sure what I’ll write, but one thing’s certain: this won’t be a linear travel journal.

And a photo... there must be a photo, so here:



Local tourists between a Bactrian camel and an electric car, in front of ancient walls—it’ll do.

Hi there, Here’s a little recap of my cruise on the CELEBRITY INFINITY from February 14th to 23rd. Itinerary: Athens / Thessaloniki / Thessaloniki / Kusadasi / AT SEA / Cyprus / AT SEA / Rhodes / Heraklion / Athens / Athens Since the cruise ended on Monday, we had to leave the ship on Sunday to go back to work on Monday 😕 Bring on retirement! This was our 34th cruise, and the price was around 1,300 € per person for AQUACLASS. Just to remind you, AQUACLASS includes spa access, a cabin with a hydro-massage shower, and a dedicated restaurant. For once, I have to say we didn’t get a good deal—prices dropped two months before departure, and we could’ve had AQUACLASS in a guaranteed cabin for 1,000 € per person. So, I think for January/February cruises, it’s better to book last-minute. We arrived in Piraeus on the 12th in the evening. The hotel was great—"Phidias Piraeus Hotel"—close to the center, with a spacious room (upgraded by Booking to a junior suite). The breakfast was decent, and the price was 125 € for two nights, all included. The cherry on top? The hotel offers free shuttles to the cruise ship on departure day—really awesome! We’d never visited Piraeus before, and it was a lovely surprise. Not only was the weather gorgeous, but the walk was really pleasant—the port, the beach, the little streets. It was way nicer than I’d imagined! TO BE CONTINUED: BOARDING 😉

Hi there!

I think the question’s in the title...

What price can I expect to pay in 2025 for a ride of about two kilometers in the tourist center?

Thanks😉

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Japan with my three grown-up kids, who aren’t exactly keen on rushing from one place to another with heavy luggage. I’ve tried to balance things so we can see as much as possible while still giving them time to enjoy the evenings. Here’s what I’ve come up with: - Arrival in Tokyo on May 17 - Staying in Tokyo from May 17 to 22, exploring the city, with a day trip to Nikko (round trip in one day): is it worth it, considering it’s a 2-hour train ride each way? - Sending our big suitcases directly to Osaka - Traveling to Kamakura on May 23: 1 night (with small luggage) - Traveling to Hakone on May 24: 1 night (with small luggage) - Heading to Osaka on May 25: staying from May 25 to June 2 in Osaka, where we’ll pick up our big suitcases Day trips from Osaka: - Kyoto: 2 days (round trip in one day) - Nara: 1 day (round trip in one day) My son would prefer to stay in Osaka for all 8 days, but I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to spend at least one night in Kyoto. What do you think? - Leaving for Himeji on June 3: is it possible to leave both big and small luggage in a coin locker to visit the castle, or is it better to do a round trip from Osaka? - Traveling to Hiroshima: 3 nights from June 3 to 5: - Hiroshima: 1 day - Miyajima: 1 day - Okayama and Kurashiki: 1 day: is it better to do a round trip from Hiroshima and return to Tokyo from there, or spend the night of June 5 in Okayama and head to Tokyo from there? - Back to Tokyo from June 6 to 9, with departure on the morning of June 9. Since I’ve never been to Japan, I’ve tried to focus on the most interesting spots. Are there any places I’ve missed that you think we should add, or others that might not be as worthwhile? About the luggage: is it a hassle to forward it to Kamakura, Hakone, and Kyoto? How much do coin lockers usually cost? My son says the JR Pass isn’t worth it—what’s your take? For accommodations, we’re leaning toward mid-range hotels with good value rather than apartments. Any great tips? I know I’m asking a lot of questions—I really appreciate anyone who can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!

Namaste everyone,

We went to Nepal last October and literally fell in love with this country (like so many others, it seems). During our trek, we had the chance to meet and travel with an incredible independent local guide, Apsara Luitel. She told us about a unique project she’s organizing starting mid-May, and we wanted to share it in case it interests anyone. We mentioned it on another travel forum, but just in case, we’re posting it here too to reach as many people as possible.

Apsara, who knows the Api mountain valley (a name as joyful as it is intriguing!) in Nepal’s Far West (on the border between India and Tibet, at the edge of the world) perfectly, is offering an off-the-beaten-path trek for a group of 3 to 8 people max. The program? An authentic and preserved itinerary combining homestays and small mountain lodges, all the way to the Api base camp. Once at base camp, locals will guide us to secret spots only they know, where we’ll harvest yarsagumba (those famous caterpillar-fungi, rare and prized for their medicinal properties in traditional Chinese medicine—they were going for $20,000 per kilo last year!).

Mid-May is the ideal time to discover this almost unexplored region and take part in harvesting these natural treasures. This kind of adventure, led by an inspiring young woman like Apsara, is rare, and we think it could appeal to Nepal lovers and those who enjoy authentic treks far from the usual tourist routes.

No matter how many participants there are (between 3 and 8), there will always be two guides: Apsara, who speaks English (and is learning French!), and a French-speaking guide. The dates are flexible around May 15th, depending on the availability of those who’d like to take on the adventure.

I’ve been busy—here’s another travel journal on Rajasthan, with some new discoveries as always.

Thursday, January 25: I left home at 4:30 AM and headed to Barcelona airport. The roads weren’t blocked by farmers yet, so I made the trip without any issues. I arrived at the airport at 7:10 AM, called Parkvia, and someone picked up my car 15 minutes later. All that was left was to check in my luggage. My Etihad flight was at 10:25 AM, which gave me time for breakfast. We landed in Abu Dhabi at 7:30 PM. The flight to Delhi was at 10:15 PM, the transfer went smoothly without any stress, and we arrived in Delhi at 3:00 AM. I couldn’t waste any time upon arrival because I had a flight to Jodhpur at 6:55 AM. I got to customs, and what a nice surprise—the hall was empty. I went through immediately, had my passport and visa checked, and everything was fine. I grabbed my bag quickly and looked for the transfer to T2, which is outside. You have to walk along the taxi parking lot and take the long corridors—it’s well signposted, and the transfer took 10 minutes. At first, I was a little stressed, not knowing how long customs would take, but in the end, I was early for my 6:55 AM flight. I’m even glad I booked this one, as it got me to Jodhpur at 8:20 AM.

When I arrived, I took an auto-rickshaw to Jodhpur Palace GH, which I’d booked on Booking. The welcome was nice, and I was given a room right away. I was hoping to rest a bit, but unfortunately, it was very noisy. I settled in, took a shower, and was ready to go out and explore the city. The owner stopped me as I was leaving and told me I had to change rooms—I had to repack my bag before heading out. He showed me the way to the clock tower, which is about a 15-minute walk away.

A market lines the street leading to the tower, and the traffic is intense.



I set off in search of the stepwells and Gulab Sagar, a large basin with three water jets and a great view of Mehrangarh Fort. And yes, more baoris!



Toorji Ka Jhalra Bawdi isn’t far away. It’s a meet-up spot for tourists, with restaurants and terraces lining the area. The place is nice.





I looked for Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra, went around in circles a bit, and finally found it right across from Gulab Sagar, where I’d already been. It’s not in good condition—it’s a shame it hasn’t been restored.



I went back through the clock tower area, found a currency exchange with a good rate, and booked my train tickets for the whole trip. The street was lively, with heavy traffic.





I was tired and headed back to the guesthouse. When I got there, I realized my phone wasn’t showing the right time, which gave me a chance to rest before going out for dinner. The Indigo restaurant is nearby and will be perfect.

Friday, November 4 My flight Barcelona - Abu Dhabi - Delhi went smoothly, it’s on time, and here I am back in India after 3 long years. As I step off the plane, we head toward customs. It’s 3 AM, I’m tired but happy. The huge customs hall is below ground level and buzzing with people who’ve just arrived. In the end, they’re well organized—Indians to the left, foreigners to the right, and all along the hall, the customs officers’ posts, who remain very zen despite the crowd. It took me less than 2 hours to get out of the airport, which was pretty quick. For this return trip, I got in touch with a driver from the "Lovers of India" group who was supposed to take me from the airport to Udaipur, passing through non-touristy villages like I love. This French-speaking driver had convinced me to travel by car, which was supposed to make moving from village to village easier. Two or three days before departure, I receive a message from the driver saying he was sick with a cold and sending another driver, his very kind brother who knows Rajasthan well but doesn’t speak French. I’m a bit disappointed by this message and doubtful about the driver’s sincerity, but I don’t have time to find another driver, so I stick to my plans, though I’m not at ease. At the exit, the driver hasn’t arrived, and I wait half an hour before seeing him show up with a big smile, "Namaste." We don’t waste time and head to the car, which is clean and new. We get to know each other in the car and hit the road toward Alwar. Along the way, we stop for lunch and to taste my first masala chai, which wakes up my taste buds.



I doze off during the drive, and we arrive at the Atlantic Hotel in Alwar at 10:30 AM. My room is on the ground floor, and I settle in quickly. The Wi-Fi isn’t working, but the staff do everything they can to fix it. At noon, Gajender, the driver, suggests visiting the Qila Fort, which is on the heights of Alwar. The fort is closed for restoration, but safari tours are offered—jeep, guide, driver, and visit for 1600 Rs.



We follow the great wall, which is impressive—the second largest in India and the third in the world.



We spot peacocks and monkeys.





The guide shows me an old stepwell lost in nature. It’s always my thing to check out these baoris, which can be stunning, but this one isn’t anything special. We arrive at the palace overlooking the city.



We walk around the palace, and I discover another stepwell that’s not worth lingering over.

The tour is over, and I had a great time despite the fatigue. We head back down to Alwar, near the City Palace, which has been turned into administrative offices. Gaju (the driver’s nickname) finds a parking spot near a dhaba where we have lunch (paneer masala, chapatis, chai)—it’s delicious. With my energy restored, we head to the palace. On the top floor is a museum that I visit.



At the exit of the museum, we have to go back down and walk around the palace to get to the Moosi Maharani Chhatri. I’ve been here once before and really liked it, and the place is still the same—calm and relaxing.



"This monument is the most artistic in Alwar and also the most royal, filled with fascinating history. Maharaja Vinay Singh of Alwar built this two-story cenotaph in 1815 in memory of his father, Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh. It’s also known as Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, named after the king’s mistress, who performed sati upon his death. After the sati, she was accepted as the king’s wife. It’s an elegant monument, shaped like a flower and built with a mix of brown sandstone and white marble. The first floor is made of sandstone, while the upper floor and the chhatris (cenotaphs) are in white marble. Its sculpted pavilion has dome-shaped arches with intricate lace-like and exquisite floral patterns. There are complex motifs that shine brightly in the sunlight. The colorful circular ceiling is an important part of Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri and is adorned with faded gold-leaf paintings of mythological figures and scenes. The footprints of Maharaja and Moosi Rani are engraved in marble inside the cenotaph, and locals pay their respects to them."



Near the chhatri, there’s a large water reservoir with a magnificent view. The place is peaceful and relaxing, and I stay here for a while, contemplating and daydreaming before heading back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. The Wi-Fi is working now. I’m the only foreign guest, and since my room is near the entrance, I’ll be well taken care of throughout my stay.

This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.

VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now. The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.

Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions. I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.

Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.

Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid? Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again? Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with? Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now? What’s really going on here?

Hello,

For a week-long trip starting from Marrakech with a rental car, if you had to choose between these two loops, which one would you go for and why? 1) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Merzouga - Marrakech (map itinerary) 2) Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Dades Gorges - Zagora - Marrakech (map itinerary)

Important info: this is for mid-February, so nights will be cold. For option 1, we’re thinking of staying in a "solid" hotel in Merzouga rather than camping in a tent without heating (our 10-year-old might not like that ^^). If you’ve got any experience to share about cold winter nights in the desert while camping, that’d be super helpful!

Thanks so much in advance!