Results for "Grand+Palais+|+127"

Cela fait déja quelque temps que je connais et cotoie des Algériens en France, et c'est un grand plaisir. Un récent voyage au Mali, avec Air Algérie, via Alger pour une escale a encore renforcé les très bonnes impressions que j'ai sur cette jeune Nation. Lors de mes deux passages à Alger, l'accueil a été exemplaire : sympathique, courtois, juste ce qu'il faut de sérieux, même de la part du personnel de l'aeroport. Cela m'encourage vivement à aller y faire un tour

Quelles sont vos impressions et vos coups de coeur ?

Bonjour, je pars en Indo et je dois passer une nuit à KL en attendant m correspondance le lendemain. Je ne sais pas trop où dormir... Quelqu'un a-t-il un bon plan ? Merci pour vos conseils Ywenn

Bonjour,

Mon voyage au Cambodge approche... Après Siem Rep, je serais à Phnom Penh dans une dizaine de jours !

À ceux qui connaissent, pourriez-vous me conseiller sur un endroit/quartier où loger à PP ? Je voyage en solo et suis à la recherche d'un coin où me poser pour 3-4 jours, ni trop chicos ni trop "routard", un un coin plutôt "safe" et pas trop cher (une guest autour de 10$ m'irait bien) et si possible bien situé. Bref, je suis preneuse de toutes vos infos et autres conseils !

Merci d'avance !

Catherine

bonjour à tous 😉

Je prévois un voyage en Turquie en septembre, mais je suis indécise sur la région, IZMIR, ISTANBUL ou plus au sud, quel est le plus joli? et en meme temps si vous connaissez de bons plans pour petit budget. Merci et bonne soirée😎

Tient sa me dirait une petite rencontre pour nouvel ans chinois dans le 13 ème le 12 février dans mon resto préférer le palais d'asie vers 19h00 rien que pour déguster un bon petit riz au trois trésors ou encore du nougat chinois clin d'oeil à Kelaier. Bon alors ce que sa tente prévener moi à l'avance pour que je réserve le resto car à mon avis y aura du monde.

PS: avant manger j'irais bien faire une petite ballade shopping

aller

salut a tous,

j'envisage de sillonner quelques temps le Madhya Pradesh, car cet etat me parait etre ignore du tourisme de masse, et posseder de nombreux coins vraiment profondement isoles.

Je voudrais a cette occasion demander a tous ceux qui connaissent un peu cet etat de me filer quelques infos a son sujet (coins sympas, etc..)

De plus sauriez vous me dire s'il y a un endroit la-bas, ou je pourrais louer une moto ?

Merci d'avance,

Nico

Salut à tous, je prépare un voyage au Cambodge et je me dis que ce serait pas mal d'avoir un point de chute pas trop désagréable en arrivantà Phnom Penh, exténués par le long voyage . Nous avons un budget de 20$ maxi la nuit, ce qui semble assez confortable vus les tarifs locaux. En me balladant sur le net, j'ai trouvé quelques références: Boddhitree Ghesthouse, Hotel Walkabout, ou Le Lyon d'or, un chouilla plus cher. Connaissez-vous ces adresses? Si vous avez mieux et - pourquoi pas - moins cher, surtout n'hésitez pas, car c'est un peu difficile de se faire une idée avec les 3 photos disponibles en ligne :)

Merci et à bientôt

Nicolas

Bonjour à tous,

Est-il possible de prendre le Car de PP à Kampong Thom puis le Bateau de Kampong Thom à Siem Reap. En fait, j'ai lu que la route était défoncée entre ces deux dernières villes. Quelqu'un peut-il m'informer à ce sujet ?

D'autre part, j'arrive à PP le 14/11 pour en repartir le 15 (j'y reviens plus tard). Pouvez-vous m'indiquer une Gest House sympa, pas chère et pas trop loin du départ des cars pour Kampong Thom.

Merci à tous.

Bonjour,

Je vais passer quelque jours à Istambul avec mon amie, fin août, et je suis à la recherche d'infos pour organiser mon séjour. Si quelqu'un peu m'indiquer des adresses ou des coins sympas pour découvrir cette ville sans avoir à suivre la foule des touristes!!!

Merci d'avance.

Hi fellow travelers, First trip to Vietnam. We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet. Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period? Any tips would be welcome. Thanks for your replies.

Hello

This month’s photo contest theme for May 2026 is "Staircases"

Plural or singular? Does it really matter as long as you’re told you’ve gone up or down them well?

Anyway, it’s not that complicated, even though I’m sure some will manage to overcomplicate it—after all, why keep things simple when making them complicated is so much more fun (as an Indian proverb goes).

To participate: Submit your photos until Monday, May 25 at 11:59 PM You can post up to 3 photos, numbered and shared in separate messages, along with a short description of the location and the story behind it.

To vote: From Tuesday, May 26 at 12:01 AM until Saturday, May 30 at 11:59 PM After the deadline, it’s too late.

Please include the photo number, username, and the points awarded: Photo #1 = 3 pts Photo #2 = 2 pts Photo #3 = 1 pt

All VF members can vote (even those who didn’t submit photos). In case of a tie for first place, the winning photo will be the one with the most first-place votes, then second-place votes! The lucky winner will get to organize June 2026’s photo contest.

For discussions about the theme, click here: Discussion thread for May 2026’s theme: Staircases

It's been 39 years since we last came back to Andalusia...

For this last week of March, we waited until the end of the "votes" in France to go soak up some sun in southern Spain. And spring is the ideal season.

Our itinerary was a very (very) classic loop: Seville / Granada / Ronda and the white villages / Seville (with the start of Holy Week as a bonus gift!).

We flew from Lyon with Transavia (no issues) and landed in Seville on Monday. We rented a car (Goldcar), drove for 3 hours, and there we were in Granada, charmed by its ZTL (limited traffic zone) that Waze made us discover in detail (a nightmare!). Our hotel: Hotel Monjas del Carmen (perfectly located and with parking).

The weather was overcast, but a little stroll through the Albaicín district was a must. In the evening, we had dinner at "Restaurant Arabe Ambar" to get into the Nasrid atmosphere—we recommend it!

I'm starting a new travel journal in Italy. It's about a month-long trip (from September 3, 2025, to October 4, 2025), or rather a part of it. This section matches the title: an opera festival in Verona (one evening) and the Dolomites in the Veneto region. I'm posting the part of the trip I think will interest French-speaking readers the most (since this is where I saw the most French travelers). Here’s a quick summary: - Trip in September 2025 - Solo travel with camping (caravan) - Small geographic area: besides Verona, the surroundings of the Marmolada massif and Cortina d'Ampezzo. - Main but not exclusive activity: hiking.

Since I have limited internet access where I am now, I’ll be writing slowly. Here we go!

Day 1: Thursday, September 4, 2025

I arrived in Veneto under the sun and with warm weather. I drove to Verona and tried to find a spot at the campsite (Verona Village) located south of the city. Unfortunately, it was full. Booking on the website was mandatory, but when I tried to reserve a few days ago, the site never moved from the "reservation" step to the "payment" step (I don’t know why—it’s always like that in these cases). I found another solution over the phone; the drive from southern Verona to the northeast was a bit long, but I finally settled at the "Oro Verde" campsite. It’s an "agricampeggio" (farm camping or rural campsite) on the outskirts of the city, and its name (green gold) suggests they produce olives there. Since it wasn’t late, I biked to the Adige River, following the recommended route into the city.

We arrive in the evening in Marrakesh, and a taxi arranged by our friendly Riad is waiting for us. The driver takes us to the door, where we’re briefly greeted by our hosts. The room is heated—phew—because it’s really cold on this January 17th for our arrival. Riad Alisma, where we’re staying for 2 nights. The next morning, it’s pouring rain when we wake up, but after a good breakfast, the rain has calmed down. Off we go to the medersa, which allows for a relatively sheltered visit. We’d visited this palace 15 years ago—it’s been renovated since then.





From there, without the rain, we wander aimlessly and eventually end up near the tanneries, but it’s Sunday, and there’s very little activity. Of course, we get hassled by a tout.



Here, the hides after being treated with lime—I love the colors.

We part ways a bit annoyed. He gets a little revenge by giving us bad directions, and we end up outside the city walls. We decide to take a taxi to the new modern art museum—60 dirhams for the 5 km, which is nothing when you think about it. That tout, who we didn’t ask for anything and made it clear we weren’t buying anything, dragged us into a shop supposedly only open that day and demanded 50 dirhams for his "services"! Let’s forget that bad moment and enjoy the exhibition at the MACAL.



The taxi on the way back drops us off at Place des Ferblantiers, not far from our Riad. We’re a little peckish—it’s worth mentioning that at lunchtime, we only ate a plate of beans from a street vendor. So, we buy a bunch of little sweets, each more delicious than the last, at Ajar. We snack while sipping mint tea and watching life go by around us. A final visit to the Museum of Moroccan Cuisine on our way back helps us dodge a few more showers. Then it’s back to the Riad. The atmosphere in the city is heating up—it’s the AFCON final tonight. The temperatures, though? Not so much. We ordered a meal at the Riad, and it was a good call—not only was it really tasty, but the rain also picked up again. Our day in Marrakesh ends under the covers with a good book and some photo sorting. Still, we managed 10,750 steps. View of our Riad



Tomorrow, we’ll pick up our rental car from Medloc and head to Essaouira.

Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.

That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.

That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...

So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.

If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.

This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.

Hi there! 😉

I’ve already created a post for our entire trip to Japan, but I’d love to focus specifically on our stay in Tokyo here. We (two couples of friends) will be spending 6 full days there in early November. Here’s what we’ve planned so far. We’d really appreciate your feedback to validate—or not—our schedule, and especially to hear your tips. Thanks in advance! 😉

DAY 0: Arrival in Tokyo in the evening, so rest and dinner near the hotel.

DAY 1:

09:00 – Shinjuku Gyoen Park

Must-see: ✔ Japanese garden (red bridge, pond) ✔ French garden (perspective and rose garden) ✔ English garden (lawns and maple trees) Photo spot: Red bridge + red maples (koyo).

11:00 – Harajuku & Takeshita Street

Walking route:

Start with Takeshita-dori (kawaii fashion, Japanese crepes). Walk up to Omotesandō (designer architecture: Dior, Prada).

Don’t miss: ✔ Kiddy Land (toys, souvenirs) ✔ Tokyu Plaza Omotesandō (entrance with escalators and mirrors → iconic photo)

12:30 – Lunch

Afuri Harajuku (yuzu ramen, light and fragrant). Alternative: Uogashi Nihon-Ichi (standing sushi, quick and fresh).

14:00 – Meiji-jingū (optional but recommended)

Access: From Omotesandō, enter through the large wooden torii. Must-see: ✔ Decorative sake barrels ✔ Forest path (zen atmosphere) ✔ Main pavilion (respect the purification ritual at the entrance). Duration: 45 min.

16:30 – Return to hotel / rest

JR Yamanote Line from Harajuku → Shinjuku (5 min).

18:30 – Evening in Yurakucho (Gado-shita)

DAY 2 09:00 – Visit to Asakusa

Walking route:

Kaminarimon Gate → photo under the large red lantern. Nakamise-dori → shopping street (souvenirs, snacks: melon pan, senbei). Sensō-ji Temple → main pavilion, five-story pagoda.

Don’t miss: ✔ Omikuji (fortune-telling draw) ✔ Photo with the pagoda and Tokyo Skytree in the background.

11:30 – Akihabara

Walking route: ✔ Yodobashi Camera (gadgets, electronics) ✔ Mandarake (figurines, manga) ✔ Super Potato (retro games)

13:00 – Lunch

Quick option: Ichiran Ramen (Akihabara). Local option: Tendon Tenya (affordable tempura).

14:30 – Free time / shopping

Explore the small alleys for anime shops, figurines, gashapon.

16:30 – Departure for Toyosu (teamLab Planets)

Transport:

JR Yamanote Line from Akihabara → Shimbashi (15 min) Yurikamome Line from Shimbashi → Shin-Toyosu (15 min)

Tip: Book a 6:30 PM slot to enjoy the evening atmosphere.

18:30 – teamLab Planets

Duration: 1.5 to 2 hours. Tip: Bring a towel (barefoot experience in water). Mandatory reservation: (official website).

20:30 – Dinner

Option on-site: DMM Café (Toyosu). Option back in Shinjuku: Izakaya (Torikizoku or Teyandei).

DAY 3:

Excursion to Mount Fuji (Kawaguchiko)

DAY 4:

09:00 – East Gardens of the Imperial Palace

Must-see: ✔ Ruins of Edo Castle ✔ Nijubashi Bridge (iconic photo) ✔ Museum of the Imperial Collections (free) Duration: 1h15. Tip: Open exceptionally this day (public holiday).

10:30 – Walk to Ginza

Walk: 15 min via Marunouchi Naka-dori (chic street with shops and cafés). Tip: Enjoy the autumn decorations and designer façades.

11:00 – Ginza

Must-see: ✔ Ginza Six (modern shopping center) ✔ Nissan Crossing (futuristic car exhibit) ✔ Wako Clock Tower (iconic photo)

14:30 – Shibuya

Walking route: ✔ Shibuya Crossing (photo from Starbucks Tsutaya) ✔ Hachikō Statue ✔ Shibuya Scramble Square → Shibuya Sky (panoramic view of Tokyo and Mount Fuji if the sky is clear). Shopping: Loft, Tokyu Hands, Shibuya 109 (fashion).

17:30 – Return to hotel / rest

JR Yamanote Line from Shibuya → Shinjuku (7 min).

19:30 – Dinner

Izakaya option: Izakaya Tofuro Shinjuku (traditional atmosphere). Modern option: Nabezo Shinjuku (all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu).

DAY 5:

10:00 – Ghibli Museum

Duration: 2 hours. Must-see: ✔ Permanent exhibits (Totoro, My Neighbor Totoro, Spirited Away) ✔ Exclusive short films (Saturn Theater) Tip: Photos are not allowed inside, but there are beautiful spots outside.

12:00 – Stroll in Inokashira Park

Must-see: ✔ Central pond (boat rental available) ✔ Benzaiten Shrine Duration: 30 min.

14:30 – Nakameguro & Daikanyama

Transport: JR Chuo Line from Mitaka → Shibuya, then Tokyu Toyoko Line → Nakameguro (40 min). Must-see: ✔ Walk along the Meguro River (trendy cafés, design shops) ✔ T-Site Daikanyama (magnificent architecture) Coffee break: Onibus Coffee Nakameguro (artisanal coffee).

17:30 – Return to Shinjuku

Transport: Tokyu Toyoko Line → Shibuya → JR Yamanote Line → Shinjuku.

DAY 6:

Free morning (shopping or relaxation)

Suggestions: ✔ Shopping at Lumine Shinjuku or Isetan ✔ Stop by Don Quijote for souvenirs ✔ Or Thermae-Yu Onsen (if you want a relaxing morning before departure).

14:45 – Arrival in Odaiba

Walking route: ✔ Aqua City (shopping, bay view) ✔ Statue of Liberty (photo with Rainbow Bridge) ✔ DiverCity Tokyo Plaza (giant Gundam statue) Immersive option: Immersive Fort Tokyo (if you want a fun indoor activity).

16:30 – Sunset over Rainbow Bridge

Best spot: Esplanade in front of Aqua City or Odaiba Beach. Photo tip: Wait for the bridge lights to turn on (around 5 PM).

18:30 – Dinner in Odaiba 20:00 – Departure for Tokyo Tower

Transport:

Yurikamome Line from Daiba → Shimbashi → Oedo Line → Akabanebashi (30 min).

Tokyo Tower: ✔ Incredible night view of illuminated Tokyo. ✔ Duration: 45 min to 1 hour.

21:30 – Return to Shinjuku

Transport: Oedo Line → Shinjuku (15 min).

And there you have it—I hope I didn’t go on too long! 😉 Thanks everyone for your advice....

Five years of an unintended break... The closure of VF, COVID... What a joy to rediscover the pleasure of sharing!

I’ve stayed true to my habits: the following account is a collection of practical tips rather than a travel journal...

Madagascar is as big as France and Belgium combined. In three weeks, choices have to be made! It was the Great Tsingy that inspired our trip. We decided to focus on the southwest and the RN7. We skipped the Deep South and the North. Oh well...

OUR ITINERARY IN 3 WEEKS:

Fri 6 June – Direct AF flight to Tana – Flight arrives at 10:30 PM – Tana Sat – Antsirabe Sun – Miandrivazo Mon – Drive to the Masiakampy pier – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Tue – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Wed – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue – Bekopaka Thu – Pirogue on the Manambolo River and Small Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Fri – Great Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Sat – Avenue of the Baobabs – Morondava Sun – Belo sur Mer Mon – Free day – Belo sur Mer Tue – Manja Wed – Andavadoaka Thu – Free day – Andavadoaka Fri – Salary Lagoon – Mangily Sat – Ranohira Sun – Isalo National Park - Ranohira Mon – Anja Reserve - Ambalavao - Fianarantsoa Tue – FCE train canceled – Visit to a Tanala village - Manakara Wed – Pirogue on the Pangalanes Canal – Ranomafana Thu – Ranomafana NP – Ranomafana Fri – Ambositra – Antsirabe Sat 28 June – AF flight to Paris – Flight departs at 11:55 PM

TRIP ORGANIZATION: I prepared my trip using the usual guides (LP and Rough Guide), the internet, and the Freytag & Berndt map (1:1,000,000). I’m old-school—I still love visualizing my route on a paper map, even though in Madagascar, it’s misleading because some National Roads are only national in name!...

The agency: Since we couldn’t deal directly with a driver-guide (we lacked reliable info to take the plunge), we went through an agency to organize the logistics of our trip. We didn’t feel like using bush taxis (not enough time) or driving a 4x4 ourselves (neither the skills nor the boldness). The French agency connected us with a local agency, to whom I sent my detailed itinerary by email. A few exchanges via email and WhatsApp calls allowed us to finalize everything quickly after some adjustments. As you’ve gathered... we multiplied the commissions, which inflated the budget. That said, in the end, we were thrilled with our decision and our choice. Our trip was booked by the end of 2024, and reservations were made immediately. No bad surprises: the bookings in the planned hotels were honored, often with one of the best rooms. On our last day in Tana, before departure, we were lucky enough to meet the director I’d been communicating with, who helped build and validate our circuit. A very warm debriefing.

The driver-guide: The agency assigned us Faly, 33, a driver-guide for over 10 years. He stayed with us from start to finish: he picked us up at the airport on arrival and dropped us off 23 days later. A very experienced driver (which is important here), an open and cultured guide, reliable, punctual, and a great companion. And a provider of good advice throughout the trip. We made the most of the long stretches on dirt roads or highways to listen to him talk about daily life, rituals, wildlife, and flora... No time wasted! With a great playlist in the background, we combined business with pleasure! Faly’s accommodation and meals were included (quite often, hotels offer free lodging and meals to driver-guides who bring clients), as was the fuel. That didn’t stop us from inviting Faly to share a beer or our evening meal sometimes. He didn’t always accept, wanting to let us "enjoy our romantic evenings," as he put it. Present without being intrusive! Faly is fully capable of organizing a tailor-made trip directly. I recommend him without any hesitation—we were delighted with his service. I’ll gladly share his contact details via PM to anyone who asks.

Local guides: It’s the national guide’s prerogative to choose the local guides (mandatory in the parks). Thanks to his experience, Faly always booked us amazing, competent, and interesting local guides.

Hotels: I told the agency I wanted charming, comfortable accommodations, without falling into flashy luxury. We loved all the hotels (except the Hôtel Kanto in Manja). The rooms, mostly bungalows, were always spacious and clean. Unfortunately, I can’t give the prices—I didn’t get the details. Breakfast is always included, usually fresh and hearty. Very often, a small bottle of water is provided in the room.

Tana Hôtel Les 3 Métis Power cuts are common (!) in Tana. Bring a headlamp.

Antsirabe Ecolodge – Les chambres du voyageur Maybe our favorite! A few bungalows, beautifully arranged in a splendid tropical garden. The dog Kodak welcomes us warmly.

Miandrivazo Hôtel Princesse Tsiribihina Magnificent view of the valley.

Bekopaka Hôtel Orchidée du Bemaraha 2 (yes, 2) beautiful pools, a large open common room.

Morondava Hôtel Baobab Café Brand new or at least, according to Faly, just renovated. Very comfortable but without much charm (international style).

Belo sur Mer Ecolodge du Menabe The bungalows, all made of wood, bamboo, and thatch, are set on the beach. Very spacious and fully equipped! Large open-air restaurant by the sea. No hot water from the tap—it’s available in plastic bottles heated by the sun in front of each bungalow. Actually, we never used it... Another very, very beautiful spot.

Manja Hôtel Kanto The only hotel on this leg of the journey, so no choice. The owner knows it and, as a result, doesn’t bother. It’s a real dive! Tiny, dark room, a sordid bathroom with only a trickle of water—we skipped the shower! Clean sheets, though. Obviously, no Wi-Fi. The only place where I didn’t leave a tip. We were well warned about the discomfort of this stop, both by the agency and Faly. We weren’t surprised, and it even became a running joke during the trip. On the other hand, we found a nice little market in town.

Andavadoaka Manga Lodge What bliss! Especially after the horrible Hôtel Kanto. A paradise-like spot, overlooking three beautiful deserted white-sand beaches. Meals are served on the terrace facing the sea. Stunning sunset. We loved spending a day lounging here! We were the only guests and were pampered.

Mangily (Ifaty) Mangily is the "suburb" of Ifaty. Hôtel Vovo Telo A large beachfront bungalow complex. More touristy but pleasant—we spent a lovely evening there with our feet in the sand.

Ranohira Le Relais de la Reine A splendid resort built by a Frenchman, at the foot of the rocks, very well integrated into the environment. Beautiful marked trail starting from the garden.

Fianarantsoa Villa Sylvestre Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s a hotel right in the city center. Quite decent, though.

Manakara Parthenay Club Pretty bungalows in a large garden by the sea, but swimming isn’t safe—the water is too dangerous and rough.

Ranomafana Hôtel Thermal Very spacious rooms.

Meals: Not all our meals were included. It’s really not expensive. 1 meat or fish dish: around 35,000 Ar 1 full menu (starter, main, dessert): around 70,000 Ar 1 large THB beer (65 cl): between 8,000 and 12,000 Ar 1 piña colada: 15,000 Ar 1 flavored rum: 6,000 Ar (sometimes free) 1 glass of baobab juice (!): 5,000 Ar

We always ate very well. Rice is everywhere, served in large quantities. Zebu meat is quite good if not overcooked. Personally, I prefer fish, and I feasted: grouper, captain, crab, small lobsters...

We happily discovered baobab juice (especially in Belo, on the west coast). And of course, flavored rums!

We bought 2 packs of 6 bottles of mineral water at Carrefour (!) (about 5,000 Ar per large bottle) at the start of our trip. That was enough, especially since we often got water in the bungalows.

We had a few picnics included in our trip. Instead of picking up the hotel’s lunchbox, Faly prepared delicious, fresh, and varied picnics for us: tuna pasta salad, fried rice with eggs, grilled vegetables, and avocado...

An exceptional address not to miss: Mad Zébu – Belo sur Tsiribihina A highly reputed restaurant, a favorite of LP and Rough Guide, and rightly so! Gourmet cuisine, refined and elegant. Barely more expensive than elsewhere, and it’s worth it. We stopped there on our way up to Bekopaka and the Tsingy NP. Fully booked! So Faly reserved for our return, three days later. We’re still thanking him! What a treat!

THE BUDGET: Ariary exchange rate: 5,000 Ar = 1 €

Pre-trip expenses: Direct Air France flights: 930 € per person round trip Cost of the circuit with the agency: 2,880 € per person

The visa: Issued on arrival, very quickly. 35 € per person for a stay under 30 days. Super simple. Super fast.

On-site expenses: As soon as we arrived at the airport (it was nearly midnight), Faly advised us to exchange our euros for all our needs. There are few opportunities on our route to find an ATM or an open bank with a good rate. To be more comfortable, he took us to a small office under military protection just outside the airport. I exchanged 1,200 € (I had asked the agency for advice on the amount to bring) at a rate of 4,750 Ar and became a millionaire. Faly recounted all the stacks. That covered all our expenses (meals, drinks, tips) without ever feeling deprived. Personal purchases were made at the end of the trip. Convenient—it served as an adjustment variable. We spent our last million (200 €) on marquetry and vanilla. Tip: We asked for 200,000 Ar in 5,000 Ar bills for tips. That wasn’t too much—I even ran short of small bills in the last two days.

Tips: Madagascar is a poor country where every service deserves a small reward. While not mandatory, it’s customary. But no one ever demanded or expected it openly. On the contrary, I sometimes had to remind a porter to give them my small bill. We never carried our luggage—porters were always present when the car arrived or waiting at our door to watch for our departure. I gave each of them 5,000 Ar. In restaurants, I rounded up to the nearest ten and left the change. Local guides also expect a tip: I gave around 20,000 Ar per day for the two of us. Finally, the national guide also expects a gratuity. I had read online to budget 5 € per day per person. I added more since we were so happy with his services. The tip was given at the end of the trip, in euros, outside the budget.

Total budget all included (excluding personal purchases): 8,690 € Clearly, Madagascar is a country where life isn’t expensive, but travel costs add up quickly due to the need to rent a 4x4 with a driver.

HIGHLIGHTS:

· The dirt roads Yes, I’m listing them among the highlights! We loved those long hours spent driving at 20 km/h on rocky, muddy, white, red, or gray sand tracks... surrounded by tropical vegetation, palm trees, pandanus, mango trees... The experiences were sometimes thrilling: crossing a river on a ferry (just planks of wood fixed on two motorized pirogues side by side) or crossing a river without a ferry, with just a kid running ahead of the 4x4 to show the way; soft sand where the 4x4 easily gets stuck... The tracks are quite narrow, and crossing paths with a bush taxi, a zebu cart, or a herd of goats is always epic. So many beautiful images, so many beautiful photos! Much more beautiful than on asphalt. So yes, we loved those long stretches on dirt roads. For us, it was clearly part of the journey. Faly was particularly careful, and the 4x4 was comfortable. No injuries, no fatigue, even after 7 or 8 hours on rough tracks. The national roads (including the famous RN7) are badly damaged by cyclones, huge trucks, and lack of maintenance. Potholes have turned into ostrich nests, and we didn’t drive much faster than on the dirt roads.

· The landscapes, villages, encounters... We crossed a variety of stunning landscapes: mountains with slopes covered in terraced crops, rice fields from apple green to emerald green, sugarcane fields, then tropical forests, baobab forests (they deserve a special paragraph below), traveler’s tree forests. And then coastlines with white sand dunes against a backdrop of blue hues!... Magical! We also passed through many villages with houses whose architecture varied by region. The Betsileo houses display beautiful decorative brick reliefs. On the west coast, the houses are more precarious, made of bamboo with palm-thatched roofs. In the Highlands region, we found solid houses with pastel plaster. Each region has its own landscape, crops, habitat, and clothing. Zebu carts are often the only means of transport in remote villages. We saw them very frequently. Again, the cart’s decoration depends on the region. And then, we met many villagers coming out of the bush and walking to the next market, carrying their crops on their heads or shoulders. More beautiful photos!

· The descent of the Tsiribihina River We boarded around 9 AM in a long pirogue with Gana, the local guide, and two pirogue men. So, five of us. The pirogue is long but narrow, about 65 cm wide. We sat one behind the other at the front on seats padded with what would become our mattresses during the bivouacs. We only took the bare essentials for two nights. A little goodbye to Faly, whom we’d see again in three days! Don’t forget us! The river is silty—meaning orange, opaque but clean. We glided along silently. Gana showed us the trees, birds, crocodiles (we saw five—apparently, we were lucky). The pirogue men rowed to get us as close as possible to these crocs sunbathing on the roots of big trees. Yeah, right!... as soon as we got too close, *splash*, they disappeared into the water. We marveled at the mini rice fields lining the river. Every tiny plot, no matter how small, is cultivated. Above them, banana fields. And on the water, a whole life of fishermen and villagers living with and from the river. Gana warned us we’d eat on the pirogue because the journey was long. So, I expected chips... But no—fried rice and zebu steak, cooked right in the pirogue!! Incredible! In the middle of the afternoon, we reached a small beach where we disembarked. Gana led us about a hundred meters to a sublime waterfall. We were alone there. We had time to swim. We’d brought our swimsuits and a towel (bought at the Carrefour in Antsirabe on Faly’s wise advice!). This swim in this paradise-like spot remains one of our best memories. We found our pirogue again and set off until our first bivouac. We’d sailed for 7 hours today. The tents were set up on a wide beach, without a single tree. A moment of solitude... Uh, where can we go to the bathroom?... Especially since it was a full moon, so we felt like we were in the spotlight. Anyway... we did as everyone else—walked away, dug a hole, and the others turned their backs. A hearty meal on the beach before a comfortable and silent night. The next day, same program, with slightly different landscapes. The gorges widened, the trees were different. But still many colorful birds. Again, we ate on the pirogue: grilled chicken and vegetables. 9 hours of sailing. A similar bivouac. This time, we got it. On the third day, we finished the descent with 5 hours of sailing. So, 7 hours, 9 hours, 5 hours... doing nothing. It might sound boring... but it wasn’t. Like the dirt roads, these were contemplative moments. It glides, it’s calm, relaxing, and there’s a lot of life on this river, animal and human. Contemplation. Suspended time. On arrival, we disembarked at a sort of joyful, bustling river port. Of course, Faly was already there to pick us up.

· The Tsingy de Bemaraha NP (Small and Great) I have vertigo. During my research, several agencies advised me against visiting the Great Tsingy. "Stick to the Small ones," they said. Grrr, no, not what I wanted—we’ve dreamed of this for years! The agency we chose also warned me but didn’t discourage me. So we started with the Small Tsingy, quite close to Bekopaka, guided by Alisha. This forest of sharp limestone rocks is impressive. No vertigo issues here. The day was completed with a short pirogue ride on the Manambolo River and a visit to two caves with pretty formations. The next day, Faly and Alisha drove us to the Great Tsingy (a good hour on a terrible track). Arriving at the park entrance, Alisha equipped us with harnesses, carabiners, and gave us some safety instructions. Faly was also equipped. Wait? He’s coming with us? I quickly understood he was there for me—if I got stuck, he could go back with me, and Philippe could continue with Alisha. A wise precaution that delighted and reassured me. In the end, it was unnecessary since the famous bridge crossing was fully secured by the harness and carabiners. 18 meters on planks, one by one, it didn’t sway too much—I walked looking straight ahead, not a glance down. I even managed to smile in the middle of the crossing—I have a photo to prove it! I was overjoyed! The circuit in the Great Tsingy is a loop, so we didn’t have to cross the bridge again. We climbed to viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramic views. It’s extraordinary, unique, incredible. All this to say that if you have vertigo, don’t hesitate! It’s doable! It’s completely safe and really worth pushing your limits a bit! For those who’ve done treetop adventure courses, it’s similar. Also, no need to be a great athlete—just a bit of agility to climb a few ladders and high steps. Don’t censor yourself! I even had a small regret—the loop was a bit short (about 2 hours). I would’ve liked to continue or even redo it, with less apprehension. Tip: Do the Small Tsingy before the Great ones, or not at all. And if you can only do one, do the Great ones without hesitation.

· Canoeing in the Belo mangrove The Belo sur Mer ecolodge lends small individual canoes for free to go to the mangrove. We left at high tide, paddled for about twenty minutes to reach a fairly sparse forest where we could easily venture in. Very shallow water, crystal clear—we could see the roots of all these trees, schools of tiny fish... It was quite surprising. Until then, I only knew impenetrable, tangled mangroves. Here, nothing like that—we walked through an aquatic forest. We loved this adventure so much we left a bit late. The tide had gone out, and we had to carry our canoes for the last few meters... Of course, the staff came to help (probably laughing silently!). The lodge owners gave all the necessary explanations and lent a waterproof bag for the phone (because yes, it’s worth taking photos!). A very useful precaution—the canoes are small, low in the water, and paddling quickly soaks you. Again, this isn’t just for Tony Estanguet! It didn’t cause us any problems, not even sore muscles the next day. A great experience. It’ll take about 2 hours.

· Isalo NP Big surprise when we saw this huge rocky massif appear on the RN7! A massif of colored sandstone, carved with crevasses giving it a ruined look. Le Relais de la Reine is a little gem cleverly nestled in the heart of these rocks. A small marked trail starts from the garden. We picked up the description at reception and set off. Without a guide, alone following the markers, it took us 2 hours to complete this magnificent little trail, giving us a first glimpse of the massif before the hike the next day. And we enjoyed being completely alone for this walk. It’s free, easy, and well-signposted. Don’t miss it. In the evening, Faly took us to the so-called Isalo Window site—a hole in a wall through which we could see the sunset. We met all the tourists in the area here. We weren’t blown away by the show... The next day, we left early to reach the start of the hike. We met Zozoly at the guides’ office in the small town of Ranohira. During this hike, we climbed through the rocks to a viewpoint offering stunning 360° views of the massif. Then we reached a site called the "natural pool," breathtakingly beautiful, especially since we were alone again. A sort of oasis, a cascading waterfall, palm trees and tree ferns, fine sand, all nestled at the bottom of a small canyon. Paradise-like. We resisted swimming, but it was really tempting. A long walk on the plateaus then led us to a well-equipped picnic site where a local team prepared grills. Concrete tables were tiered in a spacious, shady clearing where a whole family of ring-tailed lemurs frolicked. They knew the tourists’ habits and tried to snatch food. Playful and not very shy, they amused us with their antics! We had to resist not luring them with a piece of banana!! Thousands of photos!! After the meal, we set off again with Zozoly for another landscape. This time, we were by a small river at the bottom of a canyon with high walls covered in vegetation. The trail was narrow and slippery, on a ledge of the wall. We progressed carefully. No danger, though. We first reached the Blue Pool, which only turns blue in photos (surprise!), then the Black Pool fed by a shower of waterfalls. Two magnificent spots that showed us a completely different aspect of the massif.

· Anja Reserve This ficus forest is home to many groups of lemurs. Used to humans, whom they don’t fear, they move around us, ignoring us completely. It’s almost annoying... The best place on our trip to see lemurs.

· The FCE train To the great regret of Manakara’s inhabitants, the FCE train hasn’t reached here for over a year and a half. As a result, there are far fewer tourists—the train was part of the experience. We drove there and didn’t regret coming to this port on the east coast.

· Visit to a Tanala village This visit wasn’t part of our program—it was added by the agency to compensate for the train not running. Which was the case. Not big fans of this kind of visit, where we feel like we’re at a zoo, voyeuristic, lacking authenticity, we followed the local guide with some skepticism and exchanged dubious looks. And yet... the guide’s explanations about village life and the warm, smiling welcome from the villagers charmed us and dispelled all our concerns. We learned a lot, met smiling families, and were able to enter these beautiful bamboo houses. A very pleasant surprise, rich in lessons.

· The Pangalanes Canal Arriving in Manakara, we crossed a bridge overlooking the Pangalanes Canal. A cry of surprise: the water is turquoise! We took a short pirogue ride with a team of three pirogue men and Joël, a local guide who explained the drama caused by the train’s halt. We stopped in a fishing village where Joël bought fish for the barbecue. We ended up on a beach where the team prepared the meal while we went to watch the fishermen return on the nearby beach. We admired the fishermen’s dexterity in untangling their nets, sorting their fish, cleaning their gear. On our return, we found a small table set up on the beach, in the shade of palm trees and casuarinas. Lobsters, captain fish, grilled vegetables, sautéed potatoes. A real feast (included in the trip cost).

· Ranomafana NP A 4-5 hour hike (some climbing) in a dense secondary forest to look for lemurs. As usual, we were accompanied by a local guide who, while waiting to find our furry friends, gave us lots of info on the vegetation, birds, and Tanala ethnic rituals. In the forest, we met 4 or 5 trackers, armed with radios to alert guides of their findings. In the end, we saw several lemurs of different types. Quite far, quite high... A nice complement to our lemur encounters in Isalo. Here, it rains 200 days a year. We started the hike in thick fog, but the forest’s density protected us from the humidity. Be careful—it can be a bit frustrating to see the lemurs so far away, so high. Nothing like the Anja Reserve or Isalo NP. Here, what’s fun is the hunt.

· The baobabs We were captivated by these kings of the forest, noble, imposing, majestic. We spotted them from very far away, towering over the rest of the vegetation. Alone, in small groups, or in forests, our trip allowed us to see hundreds of them! Mainly on the west coast. All different—bald, hairy, shaggy, short and stout, tall and thin, like Laurel and Hardy. Philippe took to naming them. Respectfully!

OUR FAVORITES: · The variety of landscapes. · The Tsingy NP.

OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS: · The Avenue of the Baobabs, very overrated and the only place where we saw crowds. We saw many other "forests" of baobabs that were much more impressive. · It’s hard to approach the population calmly as swarms of children run up as soon as we arrive, asking for sweets. Without any aggression, their smiles and laughter quickly made us forget this small inconvenience. We never gave out candy, clothes, or money. We left pens at a school and clothes with Faly.

IF WE WERE TO DO IT AGAIN: · Same period, same duration, same pace, same itinerary, but if we were to do it again today, I’d go through Faly directly! · Maybe we should’ve stayed in Ambalavao instead of Fianarantsoa. · Plan a longer loop in the Great Tsingy—it felt a bit too short.

MISCELLANEOUS: The welcome: ‘Samala Vazaha,’ there are many, many kids, sometimes overwhelming, never aggressive. We were impressed by the villagers’ smiles and good humor, towards us or even among themselves—laughter was everywhere. Safety: No problems. Out of (excessive?) caution, we spread all our money across several bags that we padlocked whenever we left the hotel. Bribes: We were stopped several times on the road by police or gendarmes. They checked our papers, sometimes our passports. Faly was perfectly in order. No discussion, no bribes, a cordial greeting from the officers. However, several times we found ourselves at small "tolls" on the tracks for villagers who had leveled the road or filled a hole, or for the young guy who ran through the river to show the way... Faly complied without discussion: every service deserves a small bill. Language: French is still widely spoken. Credit card: Unused. Cash: You need it! The climate at this time: Ideal—blue skies, sunshine, and mild temperatures (20-25°C) throughout our trip. Temperatures started to drop by our departure—winter was setting in. Clothing: T-shirt or polo and a vest sometimes in the evening, sandals on our feet, hiking shoes for all the hikes. Tip: We left a bag in the car (completely safe) with things we didn’t need daily and dirty laundry. The two bags to take out at each stop were much lighter. Before leaving, we left several polos and T-shirts with Faly, which, once washed, will make a few people happy. Tourist crowds at this time: Low—we were sometimes the only guests at the hotel. Faly explained that at the Isalo picnic site, in high season, you have to queue for a table, whereas we had our pick. Photos: Lots! Too many! That’s the problem with digital—we take so many! Health issues: Nothing serious, just the usual mild traveler’s diarrhea. Mosquitoes: They’re voracious. We took anti-malaria treatment. I’m still not sure if it was the right thing to do... I’m always very skeptical about such precautions. Internet: Free Wi-Fi at the lodges’ reception (except at Hôtel Kanto!), sometimes (rarely) in the bungalows. Phone: We didn’t try to get a local SIM card—the evening Wi-Fi was enough for us to make calls and send messages via WhatsApp. Make sure to turn off mobile data and switch to airplane mode (I activated it a bit late—received calls, spam ones at that, were charged...). Electricity: French plugs. Personal purchases: Beautiful wooden objects (sculptures and marquetry) or zebu horn items in Ambositra. 1 kg of vanilla (400,000 Ar – 80 € per kg) in Tana.

IN CONCLUSION: A trip of contemplation. A pause for admiration, as our local guide in Isalo NP said. Nothing else to do but walk, look, and enjoy. Here, there are no old stones, no museums—it’s a trip where nature reigns supreme. And what nature!

Hi everyone,

I’ve planned a little day trip with my kids (12 and 16 years old) to Venice. The goal is to go for a walk through the city’s streets rather than visiting museums, which would take way too much time. We’d like to pass by the main landmarks, so I’ve put together a small 15 km hike... (thanks to Komoot and visioRando). Could you take a quick look and let me know if I’ve missed anything or made any mistakes?

1. Start at Santa Lucia Train Station 2. Ponte Degli Scalzi 3. Ponte dei Pugni 4. squero de San Trovaso 5 Le rio della Salute 6. Accademia Bridge 7. St. Mark’s Square 8. St. Mark’s Basilica 9. Ponte de la Canonica 10. Ponte de la Pietà 11. Ponte de la Tana 12. The Arsenale 13. Bridge of Sighs 14. Doge’s Palace Then return to the Rialto Bridge via Marzaria dell’Orologio

Also, could you tell me if the Doge’s Palace courtyard is paid entry? Thanks for your help and feedback!

Stéphane.

Hello there!



Here’s the recap of a little week we spent as a couple in Saint Petersburg in early May 2019, just before the *annus horribilis* of Covid. Since then, there’s also been the war in Ukraine, which has made things quite complicated, but tourist stays in Russia are still possible (see the discussion thread for the post-2022 situation). Looking back, early May was a bit too soon in the season—the trees were just starting to bud, and the wind was pretty chilly. It’s better to go at the end of May to enjoy the gardens.

Below is our 5-day itinerary. I’d brought along the inevitable Lonely Planet and the Blue Guide to Saint Petersburg, just to get a basic understanding of the architecture of the buildings I’d be admiring. I’d prepared two complementary routes on G**gle Maps in advance to cover the essentials of the city center in two days. That left the other days completely free for the big highlights: the Hermitage Museum and Peterhof Palace. We tried to adapt based on the weather, visiting Peterhof and its gardens on what was *supposed* to be the nicest day. We’d saved the Hermitage for a day when the weather was really bad, but in the end, we had more or less the same weather every day (sunny but windy and chilly).

Itinerary:

Day 1: City center north of Nevsky Prospect, up to the fortress (Route 1 on the map) Day 2: Peterhof Day 3: City center south of Nevsky Prospect up to Mariinsky (Route 2) Day 4: Canal boat tour during the day + nighttime boat ride on the Neva Day 5: Hermitage

Evening activities:

On the 3rd day, we saw an opera at the Mariinsky I, On the 4th day, we saw a ballet at the Mariinsky II, then headed back to the embankments at half past midnight for a nighttime cruise on the Neva—magical!

Why Colombia? It's quite simple. For the past few years, my daughter has been living with a Colombian from Bogotá. The idea was to discover his country, meet his family, and do part of the trip all four of us together. We’re heading out first as scouts, then they’ll join us to continue the journey. The itinerary was shared in another post—now it’s time for the impressions. No photos, as for me, it’s video and nothing more!

Day 1: The big departure What was planned: A flight from Lyon Saint-Exupéry late morning heading to Frankfurt. Two hours of waiting in Frankfurt (just enough time to eat a pretzel!!) and then off to Bogotá for an arrival around 7 PM local time. I hadn’t done the Check-Mig (to be done 72 hours before the flight). I did it on my phone, giving a fake arrival date in Colombia, and the attendant told me there wouldn’t be any issues in Bogotá. Actually, two hours of delay at departure in Lyon because a sick passenger was on the plane—they had to evacuate him, and the ambulance that was supposed to be there didn’t have permission to come near the plane. Ah, French administrative formalities!!!!! Flight to Frankfurt with Lufthansa went smoothly. A sprint through the airport—very well organized. Connection secured, so we boarded the plane, and two hours later than scheduled, we took off for an 11-hour flight! Arrival in Bogotá, and the immigration process took over an hour and a half because of the crowds. However, no issues with the Check-Mig—they barely glanced at it. Our daughter’s father-in-law ended up waiting over 3 hours at the airport because of this!!! Surprise: No luggage. Luckily, we had packed essentials in our carry-ons! Quick administrative paperwork, and Lufthansa informed me our bags would be on the next flight, so no big deal. Off to our hotel in La Candelaria and a good night’s rest.

The plus: We’re in Bogotá! The minus: Flight delays are becoming more and more common.

Hi everyone,

We’re back from our vacation in Uzbekistan with our kids—a wonderful trip with amazing memories! I’m sharing our itinerary and a few tips.

**Khiva + Aral Sea (3 days)**

- Arrived in Urgench at 5 AM on Saturday - Transferred to Khiva and spent the day exploring the city (that’s enough time). Among other sights, we struggled to find the Tash Khauli harem—it’s totally worth it! - Sunday: headed to Moynaq (the ship graveyard of the Aral Sea). On the way, we stopped to visit two fortresses in the desert—there are about fifty in varying states of repair. Really beautiful, especially Ayaz-Kala. We continued to Moynaq on a rough road (4-hour drive). - Monday: visited the ship graveyard and the small museum. There isn’t much to see, but we thought it was worth it to understand the consequences of human activity—a real eye-opener. It’s true that it’s a long drive, so you’ll have to decide for yourselves. On the way back to Nukus, we stopped to visit the Mizdakhan necropolis (worth it, even if it doesn’t compare to Bukhara or Samarkand’s buildings—it’s no match for them ;-)) - Evening: flight to Tashkent (saved us a day of travel to get to Bukhara from Khiva)

**Ferghana Valley (3 days)**

- Tuesday morning: left Tashkent by train to reach Margilan by noon. - Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday: visited Margilan’s market, silk/ceramic workshops, and dutar-making (a traditional two-stringed, bulging violin). Arrived in Kokand in the evening. - Thursday: explored Kokand (the palace is worth it) - Summary: Margilan and Fergana aren’t very pretty—only the workshops are interesting. Don’t miss Kokand. This leg could’ve been done in 2 days. - Left Kokand by overnight train to Bukhara (note on overnight trains: *very* small cabins—but for us, overnight train rides are a must ;-)!)

**Bukhara (3 days)**

- Arrived Friday morning: 3 days there—perfect for seeing (and revisiting) everything at our own pace. - Hired a French-speaking guide for one day—really helpful for understanding the history and politics, and getting a better grasp of Uzbekistan.

**Toward Lake Aydar Kul (2 days)**

- Left Monday morning by car for the lake. On the way, stopped at a renowned ceramicist’s workshop and to see Neolithic petroglyphs. Note on the petroglyphs: there’s apparently a 3 km walk to see quite a few, but we skipped it due to time—we regret it! For the kids, it was like a treasure hunt, searching for the petroglyphs among the rocks—they loved it. - Arrived in the evening at a yurt camp with traditional music. The yurts were fun, but we ate in a very Westernized restaurant with way too many tourist groups for our taste. - The next day: a 2-hour camel ride in the desert to see plants and animals. We saw a few things, but it wasn’t very interesting unless you’re going from point A to point B. Then left the camp for Lake Aydar Kul—we ate at a lakeside restaurant, but it was pointless. There must be nice spots, but this one was a bust. - Drove to Samarkand (4 hours)

**Samarkand (2 days)**

- Wednesday–Thursday: explored this stunning city. Two days are enough to see everything, but three would’ve been better to take more time to wander and revisit certain spots. - Another day with a French-speaking guide—we confirm it’s worth it!

**Urgut (1 day)**

- Friday: 1.5 hours from Samarkand, in the mountains. AMAZING! A 3-hour hike in the mountains with a guide (you can do longer). We stayed in a guesthouse—so peaceful, with the sound of the stream and mountain views. It deserves 2 days. - Left by train that evening for Tashkent

**Tashkent (2 days)**

- Saturday: visited Chorsu Market (incredible—even though we’d been to several markets, Tashkent’s is wild), the TV Tower (for the view, but not much else), and lunch at The Plov Center (at the base of the tower)—a plov factory, so cool! You can see the kitchens, it’s insane! Spent a relaxed afternoon on Broadway: a park with ping-pong tables, archery, ice cream stands—great with the kids. - Sunday: Chimgan—took the cable car at a ski resort (no snow this time of year), had a picnic at the top of the mountain—nice. - Evening: off to Tashkent Airport and goodbye, Uzbekistan!

**A few tips:**

- In cities, *must* download Yandex Go—super practical, fast, and cheap for getting around. - We bought a Ucell SIM card: 80 GB of data for 50,000 sums (around 3 €). We put it in an old phone and connected our two phones to it—so handy! - Uzbeks are *so* nice, welcoming, and helpful. - Thank you, Google Translate—few people speak English. - The beds are hard… I think it’s an Uzbek thing!! - Guesthouses: between 50 and 70 € per night for the four of us. Comfortable enough, private bathroom, but not luxury. - Meals: we mostly looked for Uzbek restaurants without tourists. Around 200,000 sums per meal (about 15 €). If you add wine, it adds up fast—one glass of wine = the price of a dish. - Don’t hesitate to buy from markets for picnics (samsa, dried cheese balls, fruits and veggies, bread). You can even taste before buying. Some good (and not-so-good) discoveries ;) - Everything is very clean: the streets, the cities, the accommodations.

**Special thanks to our organizer, Sardor (fluent in French):**

I contacted him by email before we left; he optimized the program we’d planned. He set us up with French-speaking guides and handled all the transport and activities outside the four main cities. Super available via WhatsApp and phone while we were there. All the drivers/guides were *very* punctual. DM me if you need his info.

There you go. Sorry for the long post, but I looked for some of this info before we left—I figured it might help someone.

Happy travels in Uzbekistan! We’ll remember this trip for a long time!

Hi there, By sheer chance, a family housewarming in Brussels gave us the opportunity to depart from Zeebrugge for our first experience with CFC, allowing us to discover ports we didn’t know (which has become rare). After some questions before departure while browsing the forums, we discovered this company with great pleasure. Of course, luck may have played a particularly favorable part: dream weather, a sea as calm as a lake, and boarding and disembarking almost as if the ship were reserved just for us, since during our departure from Zeebrugge, only a small number of passengers were taking advantage of the unoccupied cabins from the previous cruise ending in Le Havre. As a result, we couldn’t get a suite, but our balcony cabin was very functional, with plenty of storage and a whirlpool bath we thoroughly enjoyed. Admittedly, the carpet was a bit worn, but it wasn’t a big deal. Having a large enough table allowed us to have breakfast in the cabin (our usual habit) in excellent conditions. The ship, a reasonable size, was pleasant, in great condition, and had many comfortable lounges. A large enclosed and heated space with a pool, jacuzzi, and deck chairs offered a calm atmosphere without intrusive activities (which is rare). I won’t mention the entertainment since we barely participated, but I think there was plenty of choice, including a "special bridge" activity. The restaurant had a lovely setting, with quick service and particularly attentive staff, reminding us of cruises from the past. The food was good quality and well-presented, though portions were quite small—something big eaters might regret. We loved the charm of an old-fashioned theater with comfortable seats and a table for drinks. The shows were fairly high quality, though opinions may vary. They catered mainly to a French-speaking audience, which is quite rare, and featured a live orchestra. The excursions seemed reasonably priced for what they offered, but we didn’t participate since we prefer organizing things ourselves. To sum up, we were pleasantly surprised by this "old little ship" with a mostly French-speaking, very attentive staff, all in a great atmosphere.

January 2025 We had to negotiate hard to get an official yellow taxi at the airport to go to Yene, one of the villages closest to the airport. Exchange rate at the airport was bad: 630 XOF for 1 €. Taxi fare: 15,000 XOF = 24 €. It’s still quite far from the airport. The driver won’t know the place, so it’s better to have the location saved on a GPS like Organic Maps or similar.

La Résidence Keur Fleurie in Yene Hotel fleurie residence Address: Route de Toubab Dialaw Phone: +221 78 484 95 95 19,000 CFA (about 30 €) for two people per night. Dinner was a single dish for 5,000 CFA (very expensive for just one plate). Breakfast: 2,500 CFA. The place is in a very small fishing village. No restaurants, no bars. If you go there, you’ll have to eat and have breakfast on-site. There’s nothing to do in the area in the evening. The room and bathroom are nice, the beds are comfortable—one large and one small. The Wi-Fi barely works. There are mosquitoes. You’ll need to ask for towels, top sheets, and blankets if needed. To get back to the city, take bus 228 to the train station. You’ll need to go to the paved road and wait. Bus fare: 500 XOF. You arrive at Bargny station, and surprisingly, there’s a high-standard train—cleaner and more efficient than the best TER trains. It’s almost unreal. The cheap train takes you into Dakar. Just choose the station closest to your destination.

Apartment Villa Lumière Tel +221 77 710 91 79 Address: Scat Urbam (Hlm Grand Yoff) Rue Gy 178 in Dakar If you see this apartment on booking.com, **do not go**—it’s a dump. Don’t trust the photos, unless you’re into "roots"-style places, then it’s up to you. For one night without booking: 12,000 CFA for two people. One large bed, no Wi-Fi. It feels like walking into a squat. Once inside the apartment, it’s better, but everything is run-down. The guy is very nice, but this apartment has no business being on an online booking site!

Gorée Island There are several departures per day. Crossing takes half an hour. Price: 5,000 CFA.

To Saint Louis From Liberté 6, Demdick buses leave twice a day. They’re comfortable but often full, so book in advance. Price: 5,000 CFA, and it takes 5 hours to get there. First night at Chez Marie, found on Airbnb. It’s not on the island—it’s in the Balacos neighborhood, Rue BL 16 or 14, near Rue Modu Sow Ousmane. The house is nice and quiet. The hosts take great care of you. The room is good, with Wi-Fi, and breakfast is included in the price. Price for two people: 20,000 CFA (30 €).

Another hotel on the island: Hôtel du Palais. Rue Ababacar (Tel: (221) 33 961 17 72 / 78 137 47 07). 25,000 CFA (39 €) for two people without breakfast. It’s the cheapest we could find. It’s old-fashioned. In the bathroom, there’s no water pressure in the shower, though it’s hot. You’ll have to ask multiple times—or even harass them—to get top sheets, blankets if needed, and towels. The mattresses aren’t comfortable—one large bed and one small. Wi-Fi in the room. Prices in Saint Louis are very high, and the quality of the hotels really doesn’t justify such steep rates.

Restaurants: (in my opinion) One of the best is Le Fleuve Plus. Rue Blaise Diagne. The best: La Linguère, on the same street.

Shared taxi (7-seater) to Rosso, Senegal, to cross the border into Mauritania (the border is the Senegal River). Go to the garage (bus/taxi station). From there, only shared 7-seater taxis make the trip, and they only leave when full. In front of each spot, a sign indicates the taxi’s destination. It costs 2,500 CFA—if you’re lucky. Otherwise, they’ll charge you an extra 500 CFA for luggage. If you can, choose the seat next to the driver (by far the best). Ironically, you have to wear a seatbelt even though the taxi is a rolling wreck! Otherwise, pick the seats behind the driver and prioritize the window side. The back seats are very uncomfortable.

By contacting hotels directly, you won’t pay the booking.com fee, which can add up to several euros.

Hi, Do you think 8 days is enough to visit Philadelphia, especially the Rocky spots (my son is a huge fan), and the White House in Washington? For mid-April or mid-July. Thanks

Hi everyone, and first of all, I wish you all wonderful travels in 2025! ;)

My partner and I (we're seniors) are leaving at the end of January for a 40-day trip to India, arriving in Cochin and departing from Delhi. After reading lots of travel journals about India, I’ve put together an itinerary, but I’m worried it might be too (very?) packed... Here’s my plan:

5 or 6 days in the backwaters Munnar: 1 or 2 nights? Ideally next: Madurai, Trichy, Tanjore, Kumbakonam, Chidambaram, Pondi, Mahabalipuram (number of nights in each place to be decided if I keep Tamil Nadu) Flight from Chennai to Varanasi Varanasi: 2 or 3 nights Overnight train to Agra Agra: 1 night Drive to Jaipur with a stop in Fatehpur Sikri Jaipur: 3 nights Bundi: 3 nights Drive to Udaipur with a stop in Chittorgarh? Udaipur: 2 nights Drive to Jodhpur with a stop in Ranakpur Jodhpur: 1 night Jaisalmer: 3 nights Flight to Delhi, then back to France.

This all feels *very* packed. We’re thinking of taking taxis between cities fairly often if public transport is too complicated or time-consuming. Do you think this is doable? Otherwise, the alternative would be to spend more time in Kerala (though we’re not really beach people) and skip Tamil Nadu (which I’d hate to do!!) to focus more on the north instead. We’ve never been to India before, and I’m a little worried about feeling overwhelmed with all the city and temple visits. We’re more used to alternating nature and culture. Looking forward to your valuable advice to finalize our itinerary!

A turbulent period came to an end around 2022.

Many of us have returned to big trips after making only very small ones—or none at all. For a little anecdote, my dentist told me that due to the lack of travel, a lot of clients treated themselves to implants they would’ve otherwise skipped. The joy of traveling again probably gave some vacationers smiles they hadn’t dared to show before!

Here, you can share what’s on your mind: Have these new, real trips disappointed you, rejuvenated you, or just relieved a long frustration?

For my part, not being so young anymore, there was definitely relief but no explosion of joy. I just had the feeling of picking up the thread of life after a foggy pause, with the bitter taste that 2 or 3 years of my life had been partly stolen from me.

En ces temps de confinement (ou de dé.........) , nous nous remémorons nos voyages passés. Que vous en reste-t-il côté culinaire? Je reprends là un document qui m'a été communiqué par un TO avec qui je voyage en Ethiopie. Il décrit parfaitement le plat national , digeste ou indigeste , que l'on mangera forcément lors d'un passage là bas. En Ethiopie, encore plus qu’ailleurs, le repas tient du moment de convivialité et de partage. Ici, manger ne se conçoit ni seul, ni sans Injera. Lors de votre séjour, il vous sera impossible de ne pas goûter, ne serait-ce qu’une fois à cette large crêpe légèrement fermentée et véritable plat national. L’hôte dispose le plat, tapissé au fond d’une épaisse injera, au milieu de la tablée de convives puis dépose sur la galette légèrement acidulée légumes, sauces, viandes. Chacun des invités déchire un petit bout de la crêpe pour récolter les accompagnements en petit tas et les porte à sa bouche. Il vous faut bien entendu oublier que votre main gauche existe et ne vous servir que de la droite. Les garnitures terminées, il vous reste encore à déguster, tous ensemble, l’injera imprégnée de la saveur des mets engloutis. Vous l’aurez compris l’injera sert tout à la fois d’aliment, de récipient et de couverts. Pour obtenir cette galette spongieuse qui vous laissera sur le palais cette sensation aigrelette et subtilement amère unique, il vous faut combiner farine de teff et eau. Pour obtenir la fermentation souhaitée et idéale de cette pâte, on ajoute un liquide jaune clair appelé ersho. Ce processus peut durer jusqu’à trois jours avant la cuisson.

Le Teff, une céréale très ancienne … Le teff, principal ingrédient de cette spécialité culinaire, est une céréale inconnue des régions occidentales. Cette graine endémique et sans gluten possède des vertus nutritives prodigieuses. Hautement nourrissante, elle contient 15 % de protéines, 3 % de matières grasses et 82 % de glucides complexes. Extrêmement riche en fer, le teff renferme vingt fois plus de calcium que le blé ou l’orge. Source infinie de fibres alimentaires, cette céréale apporte aussi à l’organisme une grande quantité d’autres minéraux dont l’organisme a besoin tels le manganèse, le phosphore, le magnésium, le cuivre… De plus, le teff compte un autre petit miracle à son actif, puisqu’il contient de la levure symbiotique, ce qui signifie qu'aucune n'a besoin d'être ajoutée pendant la préparation de l'injera. Mais au grand avenir Heureuse ironie du sort, la culture du teff, une des plus anciennes de l’humanité se révèle une de celles promises au plus grand avenir. Avec ses nombreux apports nutritifs, la connaissance du teff s’est largement répandue chez les végétariens et les vegans du monde entier. Depuis longtemps, les personnes tenues de suivre un régime sans gluten l ‘ont adopté. D’ailleurs, les éthiopiens obtiennent avec l’injera les deux tiers des protéines journalières lors du jeûne orthodoxe durant lequel il ne faut consommer aucun produit animal. Alors, si votre hôte en signe de respect, de bienvenue, d’affection porte lui-même la première part du repas à votre bouche selon la tradition du « guscha », ne soyez ni surpris ni offusqué et pensez que les meilleurs athlètes éthiopiens ont été élevés ainsi " A vous maintenant de nous faire connaître les spécialités culinaires dégustées lors de vos voyages. On s'en lèche les babines par avance. "

Bonjour, En ce temps de confinement, le temps devient texture, palpable , vivant et fécond. Surgissent des idées, des envies de faire urgemment ce que l'on a toujours repoussé à plus tard.

Donc un petit carnet de voyage sur notre court séjour à Séville, Cordoue et Grenade au mois de Mai 2019.

Séville : Dès notre atterrissage tôt le matin - nous avons eu la chance d'avoir un vol direct de Nice - nous déposons nos affaires à notre appartement AirBNB idéalement situé à côté de la cathédrale.

De là, nous pouvons tout faire à pied. Le 1er matin : le magnifique parque de Maria Luisa et la Plazza de España





















L'après midi nous visitons la cathédrale et flânons dans les rues commerçantes autour. Nous avons choisi de découvrir la cathédrale au moment le plus chaud de la journée pour profiter de la fraîcheur intérieure de cette grande bâtisse.

La vue de la ville du haut de la Giralda



Et puis la Calle Castelar et les ruelles adjacentes. On se réserve une soirée flamenco dans le quartier Santa Cruz en soirée.





Des étudiants de l'école des Beaux Arts



Et une bonne gastronomie pour ne pas nous déplaire

Au milieu de toute cette morosité, je me lance dans un nouveau carnet indien qui vous changera les idées, je l’espère. Un nouveau séjour de deux semaines pendant les vacances d’hiver, du 21 au 6 mars. Mon 15ème voyage en Inde, mais mon 1er dans le grand sud.

Cette année, ce sera une petite partie du Tamil Nadu, un petit tour de 1000 km à peu près, de Chennai à Chennai (Kanchipuram, Gingee, Tirunmavallai, Chidambaram, Tranquebar, Kumbakonam, Trichy, le Chettinad, Tanjore, Pondichery et Mahabalipuram) avec une amie. Nous avons volontairement zappé Madurai et Rameshvaram, ce sera pour une autre fois, nous n’avions pas envie de faire trop de km et nous avons déjà beaucoup de chose au programme... Comme d’habitude, location d’une voiture avec chauffeur, et nous ne le regrettons pas, tant nous avons vu de lieux, quelquefois bien perdus, que nous n’aurions jamais pu atteindre en transport en commun, ou certainement pas en 14 jours.

J’ai consulté les carnets et blogs de Pagaljavad et Yann55 entre autre et je les remercie pour leurs tuyaux. J’ai eu des conseils d’Aleph, qui quand elle écumait le Tamil Nadu, ne postait pas encore de carnet. J’ai lu et relu les pages sur le Tamil Nadu sur le site Purattatva, un must pour moi depuis toujours. Et cherché, lu et relu, sur internet et sur papier (j’ai un vieux guide bleu de 1984 trouvé sur une brocante que je conserve précieusement et consulte pour chaque voyage car la qualité des guides a bien baissé culturellement depuis …)

A l’aéroport de Chennai, nous faisons connaissance avec notre chauffeur, Pandi. Départ immédiat pour Kanchipuram, à 65 km de là. Chennai sera pour une prochaine fois … Nous arrivons en fin de journée, il fait quasi nuit. Après le dîner, nous nous lançons à l’assaut des petites rues de Kanchipuram pour aller au temple de Kamaskhi, (une forme de Parvati), le plus proche, avec ses gopurams illuminés, son bassin sacré, des familles indiennes.



La photo n'est pas terrible car mon APN ne gère pas bien l'obscurité ...