Results for "Brière+|+127"
12928 results found.
Travel companions for Vietnam and Cambodia January-February 2027
I’d love to settle around Da Nang for about a month and explore the surrounding areas in Vietnam.
I’ve already been to this country and don’t feel like rushing around every day like I used to a few years ago.
I’d really like to find some company to stay for at least a month, and then maybe spend a month in Cambodia...
Given that I’m now 76, I don’t want to run around like I used to, trying to see everything...
I enjoy calm people... Those who love life and with whom I can share a beer... And meet people to create a great atmosphere—la dolce vita....
Visit ideas around Ajaccio and Porto-Vecchio
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Corsica for 12 days:
- One week in Ajaccio
- One week in Porto-Vecchio
I’m renting a car at Ajaccio airport.
Any special visit ideas?
Thanks
On the Roads of Costa Rica
Hello everyone, I’m happy to welcome you to this new travel journal.
We’re heading to Costa Rica together—a Central American destination that dreams are made of for many French travelers and attracts crowds from France.

It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one. We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.

Here’s the itinerary: Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille. That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.

Budget breakdown: Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up. For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).

Flights: We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included). Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions. That’s 2220 € for the family.

Accommodations: Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day. Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment). Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle). Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights). La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights). Total: 941 €.

Car rental: I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips). I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints. Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).

Activities: To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him). Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them: La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 € Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 € Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 € Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 € Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 € El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal) Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 € Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 € Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 € Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 € Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 € Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 € Night tour ***: 116 € Total: 1171 €.

Meals: 600 € My favorite restaurants: Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle Santa Elena: HG’s Food Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant

Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.) Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.
https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1772295011-z8mILBEUXHU8Ajz.jpg

It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one. We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.

Here’s the itinerary: Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille. That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.

Budget breakdown: Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up. For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).

Flights: We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included). Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions. That’s 2220 € for the family.

Accommodations: Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day. Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment). Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle). Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights). La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights). Total: 941 €.

Car rental: I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips). I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints. Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).

Activities: To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him). Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them: La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 € Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 € Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 € Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 € Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 € El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal) Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 € Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 € Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 € Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 € Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 € Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 € Night tour ***: 116 € Total: 1171 €.

Meals: 600 € My favorite restaurants: Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle Santa Elena: HG’s Food Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant

Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.) Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.
https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1772295011-z8mILBEUXHU8Ajz.jpg
From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s.
Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid.
Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.

Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.

The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
What foods can I bring to Kyrgyzstan?
Hi there! 🙂
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
All-Inclusive Stay on Roatan Island
HENRY MORGAN HOTEL AND BEACH RESORT
Transfer (half an hour) from the airport to the hotel by minibus. We drop off our suitcases at the airport exit. They are loaded onto another vehicle and transported directly to the hotel, where we pick them up upon arrival.
We’re given our wristbands, two key cards for our room, a remote for the TV, a remote for the air conditioning (ours was already in the room), and a document with a detailed site map and information on restaurant, bar, and other service hours. Reception is open 24 hours.
We got room F3, located on the ground floor of a two-story building. It’s very well situated since it’s in the central part of the resort.
The room has two large beds with super comfortable mattresses, two nightstands, a coffee table with two chairs, two wardrobes, and plenty of storage space.
There’s also a large flat-screen TV. Netflix is included free of charge by the hotel—no subscription required. The safe is also provided at no extra cost.
There’s a mini-fridge, and the housekeeper provides bottles of water. However, it’s suggested to refill the bottles at the water stations by the bar, which we did several times.
The bathroom has a shower, toilet, sink with storage space, a large mirror, a towel rack, a hairdryer, soap, shampoo, and several rolls of toilet paper.
The hot water temperature in the shower varied during our stay. The air conditioning works perfectly.
We have a terrace with a chair and two hammocks.
The room uses 110 volts, and there are a few power outlets in the room.
The buffet restaurant is air-conditioned and open from 7 AM to 10 AM for breakfast, 12 PM to 3 PM for lunch, and 6 PM to 8:30 PM for dinner.
The buffet selection is very varied, and the food is delicious. The wine, both white and red, tastes great. The service is exceptional.
There’s also an à la carte restaurant ($), the Gastro Bar & Winery, open from 11 AM to 10 PM. We didn’t go there.
There’s a snack bar open from 11 AM to 1 PM and 3 PM to 5 PM, but I can’t comment on it since we didn’t visit.
We only went to the lobby bar near the showroom, which is open from 9:30 AM to 11 PM. The staff is very friendly, and the service is excellent.
Beer is served in cans but poured into a glass, and a wide variety of cocktails is available.
Beach towels are placed in our room upon arrival. There’s a kiosk near the main pool where you can exchange them.
There are two pools on-site. Many lounge chairs are arranged around both pools. If you prefer tranquility, I suggest heading to the pool between blocks A and B.
This hotel is located on the stunning public West Bay Beach, which is long and very pretty. It’s great for walking, and the sea color is remarkable.
There are plenty of lounge chairs on the beach, but there’s very little space between them.
There’s a long coral reef near the beach where you can observe beautiful corals and several species of tropical fish, lobsters, squid, leopard rays, turtles, etc. You’ll get a glimpse of these in an upcoming video.
Activities are offered throughout the day, but we didn’t really participate. I can’t comment on them, but the entertainment team seems very dynamic.
During our stay, there was only one evening dance show. Other days featured activities like bingo, karaoke, and games.
We didn’t go to the nightclub.
Wi-Fi is available for free throughout the resort. There are two networks you can connect to, and the passwords are listed in the brochure given to you upon arrival.
There’s also a gym, a spa ($), a boutique ($), and a winery ($).
Check-out is at 11 AM. If you lose or damage equipment or misplace key cards, you’ll be charged fees.
https://youtu.be/_KOCUQbZvsc
Transfer (half an hour) from the airport to the hotel by minibus. We drop off our suitcases at the airport exit. They are loaded onto another vehicle and transported directly to the hotel, where we pick them up upon arrival.
We’re given our wristbands, two key cards for our room, a remote for the TV, a remote for the air conditioning (ours was already in the room), and a document with a detailed site map and information on restaurant, bar, and other service hours. Reception is open 24 hours.
We got room F3, located on the ground floor of a two-story building. It’s very well situated since it’s in the central part of the resort.
The room has two large beds with super comfortable mattresses, two nightstands, a coffee table with two chairs, two wardrobes, and plenty of storage space.
There’s also a large flat-screen TV. Netflix is included free of charge by the hotel—no subscription required. The safe is also provided at no extra cost.
There’s a mini-fridge, and the housekeeper provides bottles of water. However, it’s suggested to refill the bottles at the water stations by the bar, which we did several times.
The bathroom has a shower, toilet, sink with storage space, a large mirror, a towel rack, a hairdryer, soap, shampoo, and several rolls of toilet paper.
The hot water temperature in the shower varied during our stay. The air conditioning works perfectly.
We have a terrace with a chair and two hammocks.
The room uses 110 volts, and there are a few power outlets in the room.
The buffet restaurant is air-conditioned and open from 7 AM to 10 AM for breakfast, 12 PM to 3 PM for lunch, and 6 PM to 8:30 PM for dinner.
The buffet selection is very varied, and the food is delicious. The wine, both white and red, tastes great. The service is exceptional.
There’s also an à la carte restaurant ($), the Gastro Bar & Winery, open from 11 AM to 10 PM. We didn’t go there.
There’s a snack bar open from 11 AM to 1 PM and 3 PM to 5 PM, but I can’t comment on it since we didn’t visit.
We only went to the lobby bar near the showroom, which is open from 9:30 AM to 11 PM. The staff is very friendly, and the service is excellent.
Beer is served in cans but poured into a glass, and a wide variety of cocktails is available.
Beach towels are placed in our room upon arrival. There’s a kiosk near the main pool where you can exchange them.
There are two pools on-site. Many lounge chairs are arranged around both pools. If you prefer tranquility, I suggest heading to the pool between blocks A and B.
This hotel is located on the stunning public West Bay Beach, which is long and very pretty. It’s great for walking, and the sea color is remarkable.
There are plenty of lounge chairs on the beach, but there’s very little space between them.
There’s a long coral reef near the beach where you can observe beautiful corals and several species of tropical fish, lobsters, squid, leopard rays, turtles, etc. You’ll get a glimpse of these in an upcoming video.
Activities are offered throughout the day, but we didn’t really participate. I can’t comment on them, but the entertainment team seems very dynamic.
During our stay, there was only one evening dance show. Other days featured activities like bingo, karaoke, and games.
We didn’t go to the nightclub.
Wi-Fi is available for free throughout the resort. There are two networks you can connect to, and the passwords are listed in the brochure given to you upon arrival.
There’s also a gym, a spa ($), a boutique ($), and a winery ($).
Check-out is at 11 AM. If you lose or damage equipment or misplace key cards, you’ll be charged fees.
https://youtu.be/_KOCUQbZvsc
Sri Lankan French-speaking guide.
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share our travel experience with a Sri Lankan French-speaking guide.
This is Mr. Deen, a guide who speaks French as well as you and me. He studied French at the University of Rouen and knows every corner of his island. He specializes in the country's history, botany, and gemology, a field in which he earned his degree in Paris. What a pleasure to discover Sri Lanka this way, thanks to Deen!
We traveled as a couple with our four older children (ages 15 to 19). We had decided to explore this country with a lot of uncertainties, worried it might not appeal to everyone... Deen was a wonderful guide. From our arrival at the airport, he knew just what to say, and throughout our trip—which we largely planned on the spot with him—he found the perfect pace to satisfy everyone.
He showed us the essentials but also the details of daily life, knowing when to stop by the roadside to introduce us to fruits, a lime factory, must-see temples, and charming little temples where no one goes, a kindergarten... not to mention the best tips for attending the Kandy Perahera or the more intimate one in Dondra, as well as the train to Ella.
We also really loved some of the hotels: a few kilometers from Dambulla, the Boulder Range (tip: the early morning birdwatching walk and a beer at sunset on the lake dam), and in Ella, the Ambiente, with a breathtaking view.
We also won’t forget our driver Jonny, whose kindness was both efficient and reassuring, nor Agnès, Deen’s wife, who was so pleasant.
It was a wonderful and unforgettable trip, and the last few days in Tangalle at FrenchRésidence were very comforting, in a warm and family-like atmosphere. We won’t soon forget such an experience. Sandrine and Philipe.
Highly recommended without hesitation.
I wanted to share our travel experience with a Sri Lankan French-speaking guide.
This is Mr. Deen, a guide who speaks French as well as you and me. He studied French at the University of Rouen and knows every corner of his island. He specializes in the country's history, botany, and gemology, a field in which he earned his degree in Paris. What a pleasure to discover Sri Lanka this way, thanks to Deen!
We traveled as a couple with our four older children (ages 15 to 19). We had decided to explore this country with a lot of uncertainties, worried it might not appeal to everyone... Deen was a wonderful guide. From our arrival at the airport, he knew just what to say, and throughout our trip—which we largely planned on the spot with him—he found the perfect pace to satisfy everyone.
He showed us the essentials but also the details of daily life, knowing when to stop by the roadside to introduce us to fruits, a lime factory, must-see temples, and charming little temples where no one goes, a kindergarten... not to mention the best tips for attending the Kandy Perahera or the more intimate one in Dondra, as well as the train to Ella.
We also really loved some of the hotels: a few kilometers from Dambulla, the Boulder Range (tip: the early morning birdwatching walk and a beer at sunset on the lake dam), and in Ella, the Ambiente, with a breathtaking view.
We also won’t forget our driver Jonny, whose kindness was both efficient and reassuring, nor Agnès, Deen’s wife, who was so pleasant.
It was a wonderful and unforgettable trip, and the last few days in Tangalle at FrenchRésidence were very comforting, in a warm and family-like atmosphere. We won’t soon forget such an experience. Sandrine and Philipe.
Highly recommended without hesitation.
Cambodia Itinerary Feedback
Alright, I’m scaling back the kilometers thanks to the relevance and patience of our Cambodia experts!
Here’s yet another hesitation /\
When I arrive early on 01/12 in PP, I have the choice between spending a day in PP (booking a convenience room for half a day and leaving by night bus), sleeping in PP and taking the bus to SR the next morning, or hiring a driver to head back up to PP with a nice little stop and maybe sleeping in Kampong Thom or Kampong Chhnang, then heading to SP on the 13th.
Then from the 13th to the 17th or 18th, exploring Angkor.
I continue to Kampong Thom and stay for 2 nights (if I didn’t do it on the way there), but I might be templed-out by then.
I head to Kampong Cham, where I’ll spend 2 nights—one on the island and one on the mainland.
Next, I go to Kampot and Kep: probably 2 nights in Kampot, 2 in Kep, and 1 night on Tonsay Island.
On 01/28, I return to PP until 01/29.
One detail: how long does it take to get from downtown PP to the new airport? Because I leave on 01/29 around 7:50 PM...
Anyway, I’m ready to read your unfiltered reactions 🤓 and thank you in advance for your help!
A Scandinavian Tour - Summer 2025
Off on new adventures!!!
For my wife’s 60th birthday, I’m really making her happy. While I usually pick warm, sunny destinations, she’s more tempted by places where you don’t suffer from the heat.
So, it’s off to Norway!! A real challenge for me—a southern guy who’s as cold-sensitive as they come.
I keep telling anyone who’ll listen (well, just myself, really) that these aren’t the countries for me, that rain will be our travel companion, that we’ll have to face polar bears, navigate between icebergs, that there are still Vikings around, and all sorts of other things.
Of course, not wanting to make it easy, we’re driving from the Lyon area where we live.
Friends who’ve visited the country told us it’s pretty expensive to eat out (among other things), so we’re bringing supplies—especially enough for apéritifs the whole trip!!!
It’s not a camper van, but a "hotel-car" we’ll be doing! We’ll see how it goes!
As usual, I’ll try to narrate the journey with my two-cent comments, plus some little tips to avoid our mistakes—assuming I don’t lose any fingers to the cold!
Every night, I’ll count them to make sure I still have all ten! We’re not in *Ch’tis* territory but even farther Noooorth (as Galabru would say).
Note that I’m traveling with a synovial effusion in my knee! The old man’s not in great shape!!
Here we go!!
PS: As always, I’m a filmmaker, so I’ve made an effort with a few photos from my phone.
PS: As always, I’m a filmmaker, so I’ve made an effort with a few photos from my phone.
Kangaroo Island after the fires: what's still worth seeing?
Hi there,
I’ve blocked out 3 weeks at the end of March/beginning of April, arriving in Sydney and departing from Adelaide while following the coast.
Kangaroo Island is a bit of a question mark for me. If I go, I can dedicate 2.5 days to it. Is it worth the time and the cost? I’ve read plenty of travel journals highlighting the landscapes and wildlife, but I’m sure I’ll see plenty of that along my route anyway. I’m not factoring in the financial side (which isn’t negligible for KI), but I’d rather not be disappointed. What are the real added values of KI, especially since the island has been affected by fires? I’ve also come across people online calling it a tourist trap. For example, I ruled out Phillip Island because it felt too organized and structured. Sorry if I’m opening Pandora’s box here!
Thanks for your feedback.
I’ve blocked out 3 weeks at the end of March/beginning of April, arriving in Sydney and departing from Adelaide while following the coast.
Kangaroo Island is a bit of a question mark for me. If I go, I can dedicate 2.5 days to it. Is it worth the time and the cost? I’ve read plenty of travel journals highlighting the landscapes and wildlife, but I’m sure I’ll see plenty of that along my route anyway. I’m not factoring in the financial side (which isn’t negligible for KI), but I’d rather not be disappointed. What are the real added values of KI, especially since the island has been affected by fires? I’ve also come across people online calling it a tourist trap. For example, I ruled out Phillip Island because it felt too organized and structured. Sorry if I’m opening Pandora’s box here!
Thanks for your feedback.
Where to park when visiting Swiss cities?
Hi there,
I’m spending some time in Switzerland this summer. Beyond the landscapes, I’d still like to visit a few cities—especially Bern, Lausanne, Zurich, and Fribourg.
The issue is parking...
For Lausanne, I found a park-and-ride that’s cheaper on Saturdays. But for the others, it gets tricky...
I don’t necessarily plan to park right in the city center, but there don’t seem to be proper park-and-rides...
I see that the Bern–Fribourg railway line is under construction.
I’d really like to avoid paying an arm and a leg for parking over there or relying on a train once an hour.
Same goes for Montreux—it looks pretty complicated...
If you’ve got any tips...
Thanks! !
I’m spending some time in Switzerland this summer. Beyond the landscapes, I’d still like to visit a few cities—especially Bern, Lausanne, Zurich, and Fribourg.
The issue is parking...
For Lausanne, I found a park-and-ride that’s cheaper on Saturdays. But for the others, it gets tricky...
I don’t necessarily plan to park right in the city center, but there don’t seem to be proper park-and-rides...
I see that the Bern–Fribourg railway line is under construction.
I’d really like to avoid paying an arm and a leg for parking over there or relying on a train once an hour.
Same goes for Montreux—it looks pretty complicated...
If you’ve got any tips...
Thanks! !
Madagascar - June 2025
Five years of an unintended break... The closure of VF, COVID... What a joy to rediscover the pleasure of sharing!
I’ve stayed true to my habits: the following account is a collection of practical tips rather than a travel journal...
Madagascar is as big as France and Belgium combined. In three weeks, choices have to be made! It was the Great Tsingy that inspired our trip. We decided to focus on the southwest and the RN7. We skipped the Deep South and the North. Oh well...
OUR ITINERARY IN 3 WEEKS:
Fri 6 June – Direct AF flight to Tana – Flight arrives at 10:30 PM – Tana Sat – Antsirabe Sun – Miandrivazo Mon – Drive to the Masiakampy pier – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Tue – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Wed – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue – Bekopaka Thu – Pirogue on the Manambolo River and Small Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Fri – Great Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Sat – Avenue of the Baobabs – Morondava Sun – Belo sur Mer Mon – Free day – Belo sur Mer Tue – Manja Wed – Andavadoaka Thu – Free day – Andavadoaka Fri – Salary Lagoon – Mangily Sat – Ranohira Sun – Isalo National Park - Ranohira Mon – Anja Reserve - Ambalavao - Fianarantsoa Tue – FCE train canceled – Visit to a Tanala village - Manakara Wed – Pirogue on the Pangalanes Canal – Ranomafana Thu – Ranomafana NP – Ranomafana Fri – Ambositra – Antsirabe Sat 28 June – AF flight to Paris – Flight departs at 11:55 PM
TRIP ORGANIZATION: I prepared my trip using the usual guides (LP and Rough Guide), the internet, and the Freytag & Berndt map (1:1,000,000). I’m old-school—I still love visualizing my route on a paper map, even though in Madagascar, it’s misleading because some National Roads are only national in name!...
The agency: Since we couldn’t deal directly with a driver-guide (we lacked reliable info to take the plunge), we went through an agency to organize the logistics of our trip. We didn’t feel like using bush taxis (not enough time) or driving a 4x4 ourselves (neither the skills nor the boldness). The French agency connected us with a local agency, to whom I sent my detailed itinerary by email. A few exchanges via email and WhatsApp calls allowed us to finalize everything quickly after some adjustments. As you’ve gathered... we multiplied the commissions, which inflated the budget. That said, in the end, we were thrilled with our decision and our choice. Our trip was booked by the end of 2024, and reservations were made immediately. No bad surprises: the bookings in the planned hotels were honored, often with one of the best rooms. On our last day in Tana, before departure, we were lucky enough to meet the director I’d been communicating with, who helped build and validate our circuit. A very warm debriefing.
The driver-guide: The agency assigned us Faly, 33, a driver-guide for over 10 years. He stayed with us from start to finish: he picked us up at the airport on arrival and dropped us off 23 days later. A very experienced driver (which is important here), an open and cultured guide, reliable, punctual, and a great companion. And a provider of good advice throughout the trip. We made the most of the long stretches on dirt roads or highways to listen to him talk about daily life, rituals, wildlife, and flora... No time wasted! With a great playlist in the background, we combined business with pleasure! Faly’s accommodation and meals were included (quite often, hotels offer free lodging and meals to driver-guides who bring clients), as was the fuel. That didn’t stop us from inviting Faly to share a beer or our evening meal sometimes. He didn’t always accept, wanting to let us "enjoy our romantic evenings," as he put it. Present without being intrusive! Faly is fully capable of organizing a tailor-made trip directly. I recommend him without any hesitation—we were delighted with his service. I’ll gladly share his contact details via PM to anyone who asks.
Local guides: It’s the national guide’s prerogative to choose the local guides (mandatory in the parks). Thanks to his experience, Faly always booked us amazing, competent, and interesting local guides.
Hotels: I told the agency I wanted charming, comfortable accommodations, without falling into flashy luxury. We loved all the hotels (except the Hôtel Kanto in Manja). The rooms, mostly bungalows, were always spacious and clean. Unfortunately, I can’t give the prices—I didn’t get the details. Breakfast is always included, usually fresh and hearty. Very often, a small bottle of water is provided in the room.
Tana Hôtel Les 3 Métis Power cuts are common (!) in Tana. Bring a headlamp.
Antsirabe Ecolodge – Les chambres du voyageur Maybe our favorite! A few bungalows, beautifully arranged in a splendid tropical garden. The dog Kodak welcomes us warmly.
Miandrivazo Hôtel Princesse Tsiribihina Magnificent view of the valley.
Bekopaka Hôtel Orchidée du Bemaraha 2 (yes, 2) beautiful pools, a large open common room.
Morondava Hôtel Baobab Café Brand new or at least, according to Faly, just renovated. Very comfortable but without much charm (international style).
Belo sur Mer Ecolodge du Menabe The bungalows, all made of wood, bamboo, and thatch, are set on the beach. Very spacious and fully equipped! Large open-air restaurant by the sea. No hot water from the tap—it’s available in plastic bottles heated by the sun in front of each bungalow. Actually, we never used it... Another very, very beautiful spot.
Manja Hôtel Kanto The only hotel on this leg of the journey, so no choice. The owner knows it and, as a result, doesn’t bother. It’s a real dive! Tiny, dark room, a sordid bathroom with only a trickle of water—we skipped the shower! Clean sheets, though. Obviously, no Wi-Fi. The only place where I didn’t leave a tip. We were well warned about the discomfort of this stop, both by the agency and Faly. We weren’t surprised, and it even became a running joke during the trip. On the other hand, we found a nice little market in town.
Andavadoaka Manga Lodge What bliss! Especially after the horrible Hôtel Kanto. A paradise-like spot, overlooking three beautiful deserted white-sand beaches. Meals are served on the terrace facing the sea. Stunning sunset. We loved spending a day lounging here! We were the only guests and were pampered.
Mangily (Ifaty) Mangily is the "suburb" of Ifaty. Hôtel Vovo Telo A large beachfront bungalow complex. More touristy but pleasant—we spent a lovely evening there with our feet in the sand.
Ranohira Le Relais de la Reine A splendid resort built by a Frenchman, at the foot of the rocks, very well integrated into the environment. Beautiful marked trail starting from the garden.
Fianarantsoa Villa Sylvestre Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s a hotel right in the city center. Quite decent, though.
Manakara Parthenay Club Pretty bungalows in a large garden by the sea, but swimming isn’t safe—the water is too dangerous and rough.
Ranomafana Hôtel Thermal Very spacious rooms.
Meals: Not all our meals were included. It’s really not expensive. 1 meat or fish dish: around 35,000 Ar 1 full menu (starter, main, dessert): around 70,000 Ar 1 large THB beer (65 cl): between 8,000 and 12,000 Ar 1 piña colada: 15,000 Ar 1 flavored rum: 6,000 Ar (sometimes free) 1 glass of baobab juice (!): 5,000 Ar
We always ate very well. Rice is everywhere, served in large quantities. Zebu meat is quite good if not overcooked. Personally, I prefer fish, and I feasted: grouper, captain, crab, small lobsters...
We happily discovered baobab juice (especially in Belo, on the west coast). And of course, flavored rums!
We bought 2 packs of 6 bottles of mineral water at Carrefour (!) (about 5,000 Ar per large bottle) at the start of our trip. That was enough, especially since we often got water in the bungalows.
We had a few picnics included in our trip. Instead of picking up the hotel’s lunchbox, Faly prepared delicious, fresh, and varied picnics for us: tuna pasta salad, fried rice with eggs, grilled vegetables, and avocado...
An exceptional address not to miss: Mad Zébu – Belo sur Tsiribihina A highly reputed restaurant, a favorite of LP and Rough Guide, and rightly so! Gourmet cuisine, refined and elegant. Barely more expensive than elsewhere, and it’s worth it. We stopped there on our way up to Bekopaka and the Tsingy NP. Fully booked! So Faly reserved for our return, three days later. We’re still thanking him! What a treat!
THE BUDGET: Ariary exchange rate: 5,000 Ar = 1 €
Pre-trip expenses: Direct Air France flights: 930 € per person round trip Cost of the circuit with the agency: 2,880 € per person
The visa: Issued on arrival, very quickly. 35 € per person for a stay under 30 days. Super simple. Super fast.
On-site expenses: As soon as we arrived at the airport (it was nearly midnight), Faly advised us to exchange our euros for all our needs. There are few opportunities on our route to find an ATM or an open bank with a good rate. To be more comfortable, he took us to a small office under military protection just outside the airport. I exchanged 1,200 € (I had asked the agency for advice on the amount to bring) at a rate of 4,750 Ar and became a millionaire. Faly recounted all the stacks. That covered all our expenses (meals, drinks, tips) without ever feeling deprived. Personal purchases were made at the end of the trip. Convenient—it served as an adjustment variable. We spent our last million (200 €) on marquetry and vanilla. Tip: We asked for 200,000 Ar in 5,000 Ar bills for tips. That wasn’t too much—I even ran short of small bills in the last two days.
Tips: Madagascar is a poor country where every service deserves a small reward. While not mandatory, it’s customary. But no one ever demanded or expected it openly. On the contrary, I sometimes had to remind a porter to give them my small bill. We never carried our luggage—porters were always present when the car arrived or waiting at our door to watch for our departure. I gave each of them 5,000 Ar. In restaurants, I rounded up to the nearest ten and left the change. Local guides also expect a tip: I gave around 20,000 Ar per day for the two of us. Finally, the national guide also expects a gratuity. I had read online to budget 5 € per day per person. I added more since we were so happy with his services. The tip was given at the end of the trip, in euros, outside the budget.
Total budget all included (excluding personal purchases): 8,690 € Clearly, Madagascar is a country where life isn’t expensive, but travel costs add up quickly due to the need to rent a 4x4 with a driver.
HIGHLIGHTS:
· The dirt roads Yes, I’m listing them among the highlights! We loved those long hours spent driving at 20 km/h on rocky, muddy, white, red, or gray sand tracks... surrounded by tropical vegetation, palm trees, pandanus, mango trees... The experiences were sometimes thrilling: crossing a river on a ferry (just planks of wood fixed on two motorized pirogues side by side) or crossing a river without a ferry, with just a kid running ahead of the 4x4 to show the way; soft sand where the 4x4 easily gets stuck... The tracks are quite narrow, and crossing paths with a bush taxi, a zebu cart, or a herd of goats is always epic. So many beautiful images, so many beautiful photos! Much more beautiful than on asphalt. So yes, we loved those long stretches on dirt roads. For us, it was clearly part of the journey. Faly was particularly careful, and the 4x4 was comfortable. No injuries, no fatigue, even after 7 or 8 hours on rough tracks. The national roads (including the famous RN7) are badly damaged by cyclones, huge trucks, and lack of maintenance. Potholes have turned into ostrich nests, and we didn’t drive much faster than on the dirt roads.
· The landscapes, villages, encounters... We crossed a variety of stunning landscapes: mountains with slopes covered in terraced crops, rice fields from apple green to emerald green, sugarcane fields, then tropical forests, baobab forests (they deserve a special paragraph below), traveler’s tree forests. And then coastlines with white sand dunes against a backdrop of blue hues!... Magical! We also passed through many villages with houses whose architecture varied by region. The Betsileo houses display beautiful decorative brick reliefs. On the west coast, the houses are more precarious, made of bamboo with palm-thatched roofs. In the Highlands region, we found solid houses with pastel plaster. Each region has its own landscape, crops, habitat, and clothing. Zebu carts are often the only means of transport in remote villages. We saw them very frequently. Again, the cart’s decoration depends on the region. And then, we met many villagers coming out of the bush and walking to the next market, carrying their crops on their heads or shoulders. More beautiful photos!
· The descent of the Tsiribihina River We boarded around 9 AM in a long pirogue with Gana, the local guide, and two pirogue men. So, five of us. The pirogue is long but narrow, about 65 cm wide. We sat one behind the other at the front on seats padded with what would become our mattresses during the bivouacs. We only took the bare essentials for two nights. A little goodbye to Faly, whom we’d see again in three days! Don’t forget us! The river is silty—meaning orange, opaque but clean. We glided along silently. Gana showed us the trees, birds, crocodiles (we saw five—apparently, we were lucky). The pirogue men rowed to get us as close as possible to these crocs sunbathing on the roots of big trees. Yeah, right!... as soon as we got too close, *splash*, they disappeared into the water. We marveled at the mini rice fields lining the river. Every tiny plot, no matter how small, is cultivated. Above them, banana fields. And on the water, a whole life of fishermen and villagers living with and from the river. Gana warned us we’d eat on the pirogue because the journey was long. So, I expected chips... But no—fried rice and zebu steak, cooked right in the pirogue!! Incredible! In the middle of the afternoon, we reached a small beach where we disembarked. Gana led us about a hundred meters to a sublime waterfall. We were alone there. We had time to swim. We’d brought our swimsuits and a towel (bought at the Carrefour in Antsirabe on Faly’s wise advice!). This swim in this paradise-like spot remains one of our best memories. We found our pirogue again and set off until our first bivouac. We’d sailed for 7 hours today. The tents were set up on a wide beach, without a single tree. A moment of solitude... Uh, where can we go to the bathroom?... Especially since it was a full moon, so we felt like we were in the spotlight. Anyway... we did as everyone else—walked away, dug a hole, and the others turned their backs. A hearty meal on the beach before a comfortable and silent night. The next day, same program, with slightly different landscapes. The gorges widened, the trees were different. But still many colorful birds. Again, we ate on the pirogue: grilled chicken and vegetables. 9 hours of sailing. A similar bivouac. This time, we got it. On the third day, we finished the descent with 5 hours of sailing. So, 7 hours, 9 hours, 5 hours... doing nothing. It might sound boring... but it wasn’t. Like the dirt roads, these were contemplative moments. It glides, it’s calm, relaxing, and there’s a lot of life on this river, animal and human. Contemplation. Suspended time. On arrival, we disembarked at a sort of joyful, bustling river port. Of course, Faly was already there to pick us up.
· The Tsingy de Bemaraha NP (Small and Great) I have vertigo. During my research, several agencies advised me against visiting the Great Tsingy. "Stick to the Small ones," they said. Grrr, no, not what I wanted—we’ve dreamed of this for years! The agency we chose also warned me but didn’t discourage me. So we started with the Small Tsingy, quite close to Bekopaka, guided by Alisha. This forest of sharp limestone rocks is impressive. No vertigo issues here. The day was completed with a short pirogue ride on the Manambolo River and a visit to two caves with pretty formations. The next day, Faly and Alisha drove us to the Great Tsingy (a good hour on a terrible track). Arriving at the park entrance, Alisha equipped us with harnesses, carabiners, and gave us some safety instructions. Faly was also equipped. Wait? He’s coming with us? I quickly understood he was there for me—if I got stuck, he could go back with me, and Philippe could continue with Alisha. A wise precaution that delighted and reassured me. In the end, it was unnecessary since the famous bridge crossing was fully secured by the harness and carabiners. 18 meters on planks, one by one, it didn’t sway too much—I walked looking straight ahead, not a glance down. I even managed to smile in the middle of the crossing—I have a photo to prove it! I was overjoyed! The circuit in the Great Tsingy is a loop, so we didn’t have to cross the bridge again. We climbed to viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramic views. It’s extraordinary, unique, incredible. All this to say that if you have vertigo, don’t hesitate! It’s doable! It’s completely safe and really worth pushing your limits a bit! For those who’ve done treetop adventure courses, it’s similar. Also, no need to be a great athlete—just a bit of agility to climb a few ladders and high steps. Don’t censor yourself! I even had a small regret—the loop was a bit short (about 2 hours). I would’ve liked to continue or even redo it, with less apprehension. Tip: Do the Small Tsingy before the Great ones, or not at all. And if you can only do one, do the Great ones without hesitation.
· Canoeing in the Belo mangrove The Belo sur Mer ecolodge lends small individual canoes for free to go to the mangrove. We left at high tide, paddled for about twenty minutes to reach a fairly sparse forest where we could easily venture in. Very shallow water, crystal clear—we could see the roots of all these trees, schools of tiny fish... It was quite surprising. Until then, I only knew impenetrable, tangled mangroves. Here, nothing like that—we walked through an aquatic forest. We loved this adventure so much we left a bit late. The tide had gone out, and we had to carry our canoes for the last few meters... Of course, the staff came to help (probably laughing silently!). The lodge owners gave all the necessary explanations and lent a waterproof bag for the phone (because yes, it’s worth taking photos!). A very useful precaution—the canoes are small, low in the water, and paddling quickly soaks you. Again, this isn’t just for Tony Estanguet! It didn’t cause us any problems, not even sore muscles the next day. A great experience. It’ll take about 2 hours.
· Isalo NP Big surprise when we saw this huge rocky massif appear on the RN7! A massif of colored sandstone, carved with crevasses giving it a ruined look. Le Relais de la Reine is a little gem cleverly nestled in the heart of these rocks. A small marked trail starts from the garden. We picked up the description at reception and set off. Without a guide, alone following the markers, it took us 2 hours to complete this magnificent little trail, giving us a first glimpse of the massif before the hike the next day. And we enjoyed being completely alone for this walk. It’s free, easy, and well-signposted. Don’t miss it. In the evening, Faly took us to the so-called Isalo Window site—a hole in a wall through which we could see the sunset. We met all the tourists in the area here. We weren’t blown away by the show... The next day, we left early to reach the start of the hike. We met Zozoly at the guides’ office in the small town of Ranohira. During this hike, we climbed through the rocks to a viewpoint offering stunning 360° views of the massif. Then we reached a site called the "natural pool," breathtakingly beautiful, especially since we were alone again. A sort of oasis, a cascading waterfall, palm trees and tree ferns, fine sand, all nestled at the bottom of a small canyon. Paradise-like. We resisted swimming, but it was really tempting. A long walk on the plateaus then led us to a well-equipped picnic site where a local team prepared grills. Concrete tables were tiered in a spacious, shady clearing where a whole family of ring-tailed lemurs frolicked. They knew the tourists’ habits and tried to snatch food. Playful and not very shy, they amused us with their antics! We had to resist not luring them with a piece of banana!! Thousands of photos!! After the meal, we set off again with Zozoly for another landscape. This time, we were by a small river at the bottom of a canyon with high walls covered in vegetation. The trail was narrow and slippery, on a ledge of the wall. We progressed carefully. No danger, though. We first reached the Blue Pool, which only turns blue in photos (surprise!), then the Black Pool fed by a shower of waterfalls. Two magnificent spots that showed us a completely different aspect of the massif.
· Anja Reserve This ficus forest is home to many groups of lemurs. Used to humans, whom they don’t fear, they move around us, ignoring us completely. It’s almost annoying... The best place on our trip to see lemurs.
· The FCE train To the great regret of Manakara’s inhabitants, the FCE train hasn’t reached here for over a year and a half. As a result, there are far fewer tourists—the train was part of the experience. We drove there and didn’t regret coming to this port on the east coast.
· Visit to a Tanala village This visit wasn’t part of our program—it was added by the agency to compensate for the train not running. Which was the case. Not big fans of this kind of visit, where we feel like we’re at a zoo, voyeuristic, lacking authenticity, we followed the local guide with some skepticism and exchanged dubious looks. And yet... the guide’s explanations about village life and the warm, smiling welcome from the villagers charmed us and dispelled all our concerns. We learned a lot, met smiling families, and were able to enter these beautiful bamboo houses. A very pleasant surprise, rich in lessons.
· The Pangalanes Canal Arriving in Manakara, we crossed a bridge overlooking the Pangalanes Canal. A cry of surprise: the water is turquoise! We took a short pirogue ride with a team of three pirogue men and Joël, a local guide who explained the drama caused by the train’s halt. We stopped in a fishing village where Joël bought fish for the barbecue. We ended up on a beach where the team prepared the meal while we went to watch the fishermen return on the nearby beach. We admired the fishermen’s dexterity in untangling their nets, sorting their fish, cleaning their gear. On our return, we found a small table set up on the beach, in the shade of palm trees and casuarinas. Lobsters, captain fish, grilled vegetables, sautéed potatoes. A real feast (included in the trip cost).
· Ranomafana NP A 4-5 hour hike (some climbing) in a dense secondary forest to look for lemurs. As usual, we were accompanied by a local guide who, while waiting to find our furry friends, gave us lots of info on the vegetation, birds, and Tanala ethnic rituals. In the forest, we met 4 or 5 trackers, armed with radios to alert guides of their findings. In the end, we saw several lemurs of different types. Quite far, quite high... A nice complement to our lemur encounters in Isalo. Here, it rains 200 days a year. We started the hike in thick fog, but the forest’s density protected us from the humidity. Be careful—it can be a bit frustrating to see the lemurs so far away, so high. Nothing like the Anja Reserve or Isalo NP. Here, what’s fun is the hunt.
· The baobabs We were captivated by these kings of the forest, noble, imposing, majestic. We spotted them from very far away, towering over the rest of the vegetation. Alone, in small groups, or in forests, our trip allowed us to see hundreds of them! Mainly on the west coast. All different—bald, hairy, shaggy, short and stout, tall and thin, like Laurel and Hardy. Philippe took to naming them. Respectfully!
OUR FAVORITES: · The variety of landscapes. · The Tsingy NP.
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS: · The Avenue of the Baobabs, very overrated and the only place where we saw crowds. We saw many other "forests" of baobabs that were much more impressive. · It’s hard to approach the population calmly as swarms of children run up as soon as we arrive, asking for sweets. Without any aggression, their smiles and laughter quickly made us forget this small inconvenience. We never gave out candy, clothes, or money. We left pens at a school and clothes with Faly.
IF WE WERE TO DO IT AGAIN: · Same period, same duration, same pace, same itinerary, but if we were to do it again today, I’d go through Faly directly! · Maybe we should’ve stayed in Ambalavao instead of Fianarantsoa. · Plan a longer loop in the Great Tsingy—it felt a bit too short.
MISCELLANEOUS: The welcome: ‘Samala Vazaha,’ there are many, many kids, sometimes overwhelming, never aggressive. We were impressed by the villagers’ smiles and good humor, towards us or even among themselves—laughter was everywhere. Safety: No problems. Out of (excessive?) caution, we spread all our money across several bags that we padlocked whenever we left the hotel. Bribes: We were stopped several times on the road by police or gendarmes. They checked our papers, sometimes our passports. Faly was perfectly in order. No discussion, no bribes, a cordial greeting from the officers. However, several times we found ourselves at small "tolls" on the tracks for villagers who had leveled the road or filled a hole, or for the young guy who ran through the river to show the way... Faly complied without discussion: every service deserves a small bill. Language: French is still widely spoken. Credit card: Unused. Cash: You need it! The climate at this time: Ideal—blue skies, sunshine, and mild temperatures (20-25°C) throughout our trip. Temperatures started to drop by our departure—winter was setting in. Clothing: T-shirt or polo and a vest sometimes in the evening, sandals on our feet, hiking shoes for all the hikes. Tip: We left a bag in the car (completely safe) with things we didn’t need daily and dirty laundry. The two bags to take out at each stop were much lighter. Before leaving, we left several polos and T-shirts with Faly, which, once washed, will make a few people happy. Tourist crowds at this time: Low—we were sometimes the only guests at the hotel. Faly explained that at the Isalo picnic site, in high season, you have to queue for a table, whereas we had our pick. Photos: Lots! Too many! That’s the problem with digital—we take so many! Health issues: Nothing serious, just the usual mild traveler’s diarrhea. Mosquitoes: They’re voracious. We took anti-malaria treatment. I’m still not sure if it was the right thing to do... I’m always very skeptical about such precautions. Internet: Free Wi-Fi at the lodges’ reception (except at Hôtel Kanto!), sometimes (rarely) in the bungalows. Phone: We didn’t try to get a local SIM card—the evening Wi-Fi was enough for us to make calls and send messages via WhatsApp. Make sure to turn off mobile data and switch to airplane mode (I activated it a bit late—received calls, spam ones at that, were charged...). Electricity: French plugs. Personal purchases: Beautiful wooden objects (sculptures and marquetry) or zebu horn items in Ambositra. 1 kg of vanilla (400,000 Ar – 80 € per kg) in Tana.
IN CONCLUSION: A trip of contemplation. A pause for admiration, as our local guide in Isalo NP said. Nothing else to do but walk, look, and enjoy. Here, there are no old stones, no museums—it’s a trip where nature reigns supreme. And what nature!
I’ve stayed true to my habits: the following account is a collection of practical tips rather than a travel journal...
Madagascar is as big as France and Belgium combined. In three weeks, choices have to be made! It was the Great Tsingy that inspired our trip. We decided to focus on the southwest and the RN7. We skipped the Deep South and the North. Oh well...
OUR ITINERARY IN 3 WEEKS:
Fri 6 June – Direct AF flight to Tana – Flight arrives at 10:30 PM – Tana Sat – Antsirabe Sun – Miandrivazo Mon – Drive to the Masiakampy pier – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Tue – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue - Bivouac Wed – Descent of the Tsiribihina River by pirogue – Bekopaka Thu – Pirogue on the Manambolo River and Small Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Fri – Great Tsingy of Bemaraha – Bekopaka Sat – Avenue of the Baobabs – Morondava Sun – Belo sur Mer Mon – Free day – Belo sur Mer Tue – Manja Wed – Andavadoaka Thu – Free day – Andavadoaka Fri – Salary Lagoon – Mangily Sat – Ranohira Sun – Isalo National Park - Ranohira Mon – Anja Reserve - Ambalavao - Fianarantsoa Tue – FCE train canceled – Visit to a Tanala village - Manakara Wed – Pirogue on the Pangalanes Canal – Ranomafana Thu – Ranomafana NP – Ranomafana Fri – Ambositra – Antsirabe Sat 28 June – AF flight to Paris – Flight departs at 11:55 PM
TRIP ORGANIZATION: I prepared my trip using the usual guides (LP and Rough Guide), the internet, and the Freytag & Berndt map (1:1,000,000). I’m old-school—I still love visualizing my route on a paper map, even though in Madagascar, it’s misleading because some National Roads are only national in name!...
The agency: Since we couldn’t deal directly with a driver-guide (we lacked reliable info to take the plunge), we went through an agency to organize the logistics of our trip. We didn’t feel like using bush taxis (not enough time) or driving a 4x4 ourselves (neither the skills nor the boldness). The French agency connected us with a local agency, to whom I sent my detailed itinerary by email. A few exchanges via email and WhatsApp calls allowed us to finalize everything quickly after some adjustments. As you’ve gathered... we multiplied the commissions, which inflated the budget. That said, in the end, we were thrilled with our decision and our choice. Our trip was booked by the end of 2024, and reservations were made immediately. No bad surprises: the bookings in the planned hotels were honored, often with one of the best rooms. On our last day in Tana, before departure, we were lucky enough to meet the director I’d been communicating with, who helped build and validate our circuit. A very warm debriefing.
The driver-guide: The agency assigned us Faly, 33, a driver-guide for over 10 years. He stayed with us from start to finish: he picked us up at the airport on arrival and dropped us off 23 days later. A very experienced driver (which is important here), an open and cultured guide, reliable, punctual, and a great companion. And a provider of good advice throughout the trip. We made the most of the long stretches on dirt roads or highways to listen to him talk about daily life, rituals, wildlife, and flora... No time wasted! With a great playlist in the background, we combined business with pleasure! Faly’s accommodation and meals were included (quite often, hotels offer free lodging and meals to driver-guides who bring clients), as was the fuel. That didn’t stop us from inviting Faly to share a beer or our evening meal sometimes. He didn’t always accept, wanting to let us "enjoy our romantic evenings," as he put it. Present without being intrusive! Faly is fully capable of organizing a tailor-made trip directly. I recommend him without any hesitation—we were delighted with his service. I’ll gladly share his contact details via PM to anyone who asks.
Local guides: It’s the national guide’s prerogative to choose the local guides (mandatory in the parks). Thanks to his experience, Faly always booked us amazing, competent, and interesting local guides.
Hotels: I told the agency I wanted charming, comfortable accommodations, without falling into flashy luxury. We loved all the hotels (except the Hôtel Kanto in Manja). The rooms, mostly bungalows, were always spacious and clean. Unfortunately, I can’t give the prices—I didn’t get the details. Breakfast is always included, usually fresh and hearty. Very often, a small bottle of water is provided in the room.
Tana Hôtel Les 3 Métis Power cuts are common (!) in Tana. Bring a headlamp.
Antsirabe Ecolodge – Les chambres du voyageur Maybe our favorite! A few bungalows, beautifully arranged in a splendid tropical garden. The dog Kodak welcomes us warmly.
Miandrivazo Hôtel Princesse Tsiribihina Magnificent view of the valley.
Bekopaka Hôtel Orchidée du Bemaraha 2 (yes, 2) beautiful pools, a large open common room.
Morondava Hôtel Baobab Café Brand new or at least, according to Faly, just renovated. Very comfortable but without much charm (international style).
Belo sur Mer Ecolodge du Menabe The bungalows, all made of wood, bamboo, and thatch, are set on the beach. Very spacious and fully equipped! Large open-air restaurant by the sea. No hot water from the tap—it’s available in plastic bottles heated by the sun in front of each bungalow. Actually, we never used it... Another very, very beautiful spot.
Manja Hôtel Kanto The only hotel on this leg of the journey, so no choice. The owner knows it and, as a result, doesn’t bother. It’s a real dive! Tiny, dark room, a sordid bathroom with only a trickle of water—we skipped the shower! Clean sheets, though. Obviously, no Wi-Fi. The only place where I didn’t leave a tip. We were well warned about the discomfort of this stop, both by the agency and Faly. We weren’t surprised, and it even became a running joke during the trip. On the other hand, we found a nice little market in town.
Andavadoaka Manga Lodge What bliss! Especially after the horrible Hôtel Kanto. A paradise-like spot, overlooking three beautiful deserted white-sand beaches. Meals are served on the terrace facing the sea. Stunning sunset. We loved spending a day lounging here! We were the only guests and were pampered.
Mangily (Ifaty) Mangily is the "suburb" of Ifaty. Hôtel Vovo Telo A large beachfront bungalow complex. More touristy but pleasant—we spent a lovely evening there with our feet in the sand.
Ranohira Le Relais de la Reine A splendid resort built by a Frenchman, at the foot of the rocks, very well integrated into the environment. Beautiful marked trail starting from the garden.
Fianarantsoa Villa Sylvestre Contrary to what its name suggests, it’s a hotel right in the city center. Quite decent, though.
Manakara Parthenay Club Pretty bungalows in a large garden by the sea, but swimming isn’t safe—the water is too dangerous and rough.
Ranomafana Hôtel Thermal Very spacious rooms.
Meals: Not all our meals were included. It’s really not expensive. 1 meat or fish dish: around 35,000 Ar 1 full menu (starter, main, dessert): around 70,000 Ar 1 large THB beer (65 cl): between 8,000 and 12,000 Ar 1 piña colada: 15,000 Ar 1 flavored rum: 6,000 Ar (sometimes free) 1 glass of baobab juice (!): 5,000 Ar
We always ate very well. Rice is everywhere, served in large quantities. Zebu meat is quite good if not overcooked. Personally, I prefer fish, and I feasted: grouper, captain, crab, small lobsters...
We happily discovered baobab juice (especially in Belo, on the west coast). And of course, flavored rums!
We bought 2 packs of 6 bottles of mineral water at Carrefour (!) (about 5,000 Ar per large bottle) at the start of our trip. That was enough, especially since we often got water in the bungalows.
We had a few picnics included in our trip. Instead of picking up the hotel’s lunchbox, Faly prepared delicious, fresh, and varied picnics for us: tuna pasta salad, fried rice with eggs, grilled vegetables, and avocado...
An exceptional address not to miss: Mad Zébu – Belo sur Tsiribihina A highly reputed restaurant, a favorite of LP and Rough Guide, and rightly so! Gourmet cuisine, refined and elegant. Barely more expensive than elsewhere, and it’s worth it. We stopped there on our way up to Bekopaka and the Tsingy NP. Fully booked! So Faly reserved for our return, three days later. We’re still thanking him! What a treat!
THE BUDGET: Ariary exchange rate: 5,000 Ar = 1 €
Pre-trip expenses: Direct Air France flights: 930 € per person round trip Cost of the circuit with the agency: 2,880 € per person
The visa: Issued on arrival, very quickly. 35 € per person for a stay under 30 days. Super simple. Super fast.
On-site expenses: As soon as we arrived at the airport (it was nearly midnight), Faly advised us to exchange our euros for all our needs. There are few opportunities on our route to find an ATM or an open bank with a good rate. To be more comfortable, he took us to a small office under military protection just outside the airport. I exchanged 1,200 € (I had asked the agency for advice on the amount to bring) at a rate of 4,750 Ar and became a millionaire. Faly recounted all the stacks. That covered all our expenses (meals, drinks, tips) without ever feeling deprived. Personal purchases were made at the end of the trip. Convenient—it served as an adjustment variable. We spent our last million (200 €) on marquetry and vanilla. Tip: We asked for 200,000 Ar in 5,000 Ar bills for tips. That wasn’t too much—I even ran short of small bills in the last two days.
Tips: Madagascar is a poor country where every service deserves a small reward. While not mandatory, it’s customary. But no one ever demanded or expected it openly. On the contrary, I sometimes had to remind a porter to give them my small bill. We never carried our luggage—porters were always present when the car arrived or waiting at our door to watch for our departure. I gave each of them 5,000 Ar. In restaurants, I rounded up to the nearest ten and left the change. Local guides also expect a tip: I gave around 20,000 Ar per day for the two of us. Finally, the national guide also expects a gratuity. I had read online to budget 5 € per day per person. I added more since we were so happy with his services. The tip was given at the end of the trip, in euros, outside the budget.
Total budget all included (excluding personal purchases): 8,690 € Clearly, Madagascar is a country where life isn’t expensive, but travel costs add up quickly due to the need to rent a 4x4 with a driver.
HIGHLIGHTS:
· The dirt roads Yes, I’m listing them among the highlights! We loved those long hours spent driving at 20 km/h on rocky, muddy, white, red, or gray sand tracks... surrounded by tropical vegetation, palm trees, pandanus, mango trees... The experiences were sometimes thrilling: crossing a river on a ferry (just planks of wood fixed on two motorized pirogues side by side) or crossing a river without a ferry, with just a kid running ahead of the 4x4 to show the way; soft sand where the 4x4 easily gets stuck... The tracks are quite narrow, and crossing paths with a bush taxi, a zebu cart, or a herd of goats is always epic. So many beautiful images, so many beautiful photos! Much more beautiful than on asphalt. So yes, we loved those long stretches on dirt roads. For us, it was clearly part of the journey. Faly was particularly careful, and the 4x4 was comfortable. No injuries, no fatigue, even after 7 or 8 hours on rough tracks. The national roads (including the famous RN7) are badly damaged by cyclones, huge trucks, and lack of maintenance. Potholes have turned into ostrich nests, and we didn’t drive much faster than on the dirt roads.
· The landscapes, villages, encounters... We crossed a variety of stunning landscapes: mountains with slopes covered in terraced crops, rice fields from apple green to emerald green, sugarcane fields, then tropical forests, baobab forests (they deserve a special paragraph below), traveler’s tree forests. And then coastlines with white sand dunes against a backdrop of blue hues!... Magical! We also passed through many villages with houses whose architecture varied by region. The Betsileo houses display beautiful decorative brick reliefs. On the west coast, the houses are more precarious, made of bamboo with palm-thatched roofs. In the Highlands region, we found solid houses with pastel plaster. Each region has its own landscape, crops, habitat, and clothing. Zebu carts are often the only means of transport in remote villages. We saw them very frequently. Again, the cart’s decoration depends on the region. And then, we met many villagers coming out of the bush and walking to the next market, carrying their crops on their heads or shoulders. More beautiful photos!
· The descent of the Tsiribihina River We boarded around 9 AM in a long pirogue with Gana, the local guide, and two pirogue men. So, five of us. The pirogue is long but narrow, about 65 cm wide. We sat one behind the other at the front on seats padded with what would become our mattresses during the bivouacs. We only took the bare essentials for two nights. A little goodbye to Faly, whom we’d see again in three days! Don’t forget us! The river is silty—meaning orange, opaque but clean. We glided along silently. Gana showed us the trees, birds, crocodiles (we saw five—apparently, we were lucky). The pirogue men rowed to get us as close as possible to these crocs sunbathing on the roots of big trees. Yeah, right!... as soon as we got too close, *splash*, they disappeared into the water. We marveled at the mini rice fields lining the river. Every tiny plot, no matter how small, is cultivated. Above them, banana fields. And on the water, a whole life of fishermen and villagers living with and from the river. Gana warned us we’d eat on the pirogue because the journey was long. So, I expected chips... But no—fried rice and zebu steak, cooked right in the pirogue!! Incredible! In the middle of the afternoon, we reached a small beach where we disembarked. Gana led us about a hundred meters to a sublime waterfall. We were alone there. We had time to swim. We’d brought our swimsuits and a towel (bought at the Carrefour in Antsirabe on Faly’s wise advice!). This swim in this paradise-like spot remains one of our best memories. We found our pirogue again and set off until our first bivouac. We’d sailed for 7 hours today. The tents were set up on a wide beach, without a single tree. A moment of solitude... Uh, where can we go to the bathroom?... Especially since it was a full moon, so we felt like we were in the spotlight. Anyway... we did as everyone else—walked away, dug a hole, and the others turned their backs. A hearty meal on the beach before a comfortable and silent night. The next day, same program, with slightly different landscapes. The gorges widened, the trees were different. But still many colorful birds. Again, we ate on the pirogue: grilled chicken and vegetables. 9 hours of sailing. A similar bivouac. This time, we got it. On the third day, we finished the descent with 5 hours of sailing. So, 7 hours, 9 hours, 5 hours... doing nothing. It might sound boring... but it wasn’t. Like the dirt roads, these were contemplative moments. It glides, it’s calm, relaxing, and there’s a lot of life on this river, animal and human. Contemplation. Suspended time. On arrival, we disembarked at a sort of joyful, bustling river port. Of course, Faly was already there to pick us up.
· The Tsingy de Bemaraha NP (Small and Great) I have vertigo. During my research, several agencies advised me against visiting the Great Tsingy. "Stick to the Small ones," they said. Grrr, no, not what I wanted—we’ve dreamed of this for years! The agency we chose also warned me but didn’t discourage me. So we started with the Small Tsingy, quite close to Bekopaka, guided by Alisha. This forest of sharp limestone rocks is impressive. No vertigo issues here. The day was completed with a short pirogue ride on the Manambolo River and a visit to two caves with pretty formations. The next day, Faly and Alisha drove us to the Great Tsingy (a good hour on a terrible track). Arriving at the park entrance, Alisha equipped us with harnesses, carabiners, and gave us some safety instructions. Faly was also equipped. Wait? He’s coming with us? I quickly understood he was there for me—if I got stuck, he could go back with me, and Philippe could continue with Alisha. A wise precaution that delighted and reassured me. In the end, it was unnecessary since the famous bridge crossing was fully secured by the harness and carabiners. 18 meters on planks, one by one, it didn’t sway too much—I walked looking straight ahead, not a glance down. I even managed to smile in the middle of the crossing—I have a photo to prove it! I was overjoyed! The circuit in the Great Tsingy is a loop, so we didn’t have to cross the bridge again. We climbed to viewpoints offering breathtaking panoramic views. It’s extraordinary, unique, incredible. All this to say that if you have vertigo, don’t hesitate! It’s doable! It’s completely safe and really worth pushing your limits a bit! For those who’ve done treetop adventure courses, it’s similar. Also, no need to be a great athlete—just a bit of agility to climb a few ladders and high steps. Don’t censor yourself! I even had a small regret—the loop was a bit short (about 2 hours). I would’ve liked to continue or even redo it, with less apprehension. Tip: Do the Small Tsingy before the Great ones, or not at all. And if you can only do one, do the Great ones without hesitation.
· Canoeing in the Belo mangrove The Belo sur Mer ecolodge lends small individual canoes for free to go to the mangrove. We left at high tide, paddled for about twenty minutes to reach a fairly sparse forest where we could easily venture in. Very shallow water, crystal clear—we could see the roots of all these trees, schools of tiny fish... It was quite surprising. Until then, I only knew impenetrable, tangled mangroves. Here, nothing like that—we walked through an aquatic forest. We loved this adventure so much we left a bit late. The tide had gone out, and we had to carry our canoes for the last few meters... Of course, the staff came to help (probably laughing silently!). The lodge owners gave all the necessary explanations and lent a waterproof bag for the phone (because yes, it’s worth taking photos!). A very useful precaution—the canoes are small, low in the water, and paddling quickly soaks you. Again, this isn’t just for Tony Estanguet! It didn’t cause us any problems, not even sore muscles the next day. A great experience. It’ll take about 2 hours.
· Isalo NP Big surprise when we saw this huge rocky massif appear on the RN7! A massif of colored sandstone, carved with crevasses giving it a ruined look. Le Relais de la Reine is a little gem cleverly nestled in the heart of these rocks. A small marked trail starts from the garden. We picked up the description at reception and set off. Without a guide, alone following the markers, it took us 2 hours to complete this magnificent little trail, giving us a first glimpse of the massif before the hike the next day. And we enjoyed being completely alone for this walk. It’s free, easy, and well-signposted. Don’t miss it. In the evening, Faly took us to the so-called Isalo Window site—a hole in a wall through which we could see the sunset. We met all the tourists in the area here. We weren’t blown away by the show... The next day, we left early to reach the start of the hike. We met Zozoly at the guides’ office in the small town of Ranohira. During this hike, we climbed through the rocks to a viewpoint offering stunning 360° views of the massif. Then we reached a site called the "natural pool," breathtakingly beautiful, especially since we were alone again. A sort of oasis, a cascading waterfall, palm trees and tree ferns, fine sand, all nestled at the bottom of a small canyon. Paradise-like. We resisted swimming, but it was really tempting. A long walk on the plateaus then led us to a well-equipped picnic site where a local team prepared grills. Concrete tables were tiered in a spacious, shady clearing where a whole family of ring-tailed lemurs frolicked. They knew the tourists’ habits and tried to snatch food. Playful and not very shy, they amused us with their antics! We had to resist not luring them with a piece of banana!! Thousands of photos!! After the meal, we set off again with Zozoly for another landscape. This time, we were by a small river at the bottom of a canyon with high walls covered in vegetation. The trail was narrow and slippery, on a ledge of the wall. We progressed carefully. No danger, though. We first reached the Blue Pool, which only turns blue in photos (surprise!), then the Black Pool fed by a shower of waterfalls. Two magnificent spots that showed us a completely different aspect of the massif.
· Anja Reserve This ficus forest is home to many groups of lemurs. Used to humans, whom they don’t fear, they move around us, ignoring us completely. It’s almost annoying... The best place on our trip to see lemurs.
· The FCE train To the great regret of Manakara’s inhabitants, the FCE train hasn’t reached here for over a year and a half. As a result, there are far fewer tourists—the train was part of the experience. We drove there and didn’t regret coming to this port on the east coast.
· Visit to a Tanala village This visit wasn’t part of our program—it was added by the agency to compensate for the train not running. Which was the case. Not big fans of this kind of visit, where we feel like we’re at a zoo, voyeuristic, lacking authenticity, we followed the local guide with some skepticism and exchanged dubious looks. And yet... the guide’s explanations about village life and the warm, smiling welcome from the villagers charmed us and dispelled all our concerns. We learned a lot, met smiling families, and were able to enter these beautiful bamboo houses. A very pleasant surprise, rich in lessons.
· The Pangalanes Canal Arriving in Manakara, we crossed a bridge overlooking the Pangalanes Canal. A cry of surprise: the water is turquoise! We took a short pirogue ride with a team of three pirogue men and Joël, a local guide who explained the drama caused by the train’s halt. We stopped in a fishing village where Joël bought fish for the barbecue. We ended up on a beach where the team prepared the meal while we went to watch the fishermen return on the nearby beach. We admired the fishermen’s dexterity in untangling their nets, sorting their fish, cleaning their gear. On our return, we found a small table set up on the beach, in the shade of palm trees and casuarinas. Lobsters, captain fish, grilled vegetables, sautéed potatoes. A real feast (included in the trip cost).
· Ranomafana NP A 4-5 hour hike (some climbing) in a dense secondary forest to look for lemurs. As usual, we were accompanied by a local guide who, while waiting to find our furry friends, gave us lots of info on the vegetation, birds, and Tanala ethnic rituals. In the forest, we met 4 or 5 trackers, armed with radios to alert guides of their findings. In the end, we saw several lemurs of different types. Quite far, quite high... A nice complement to our lemur encounters in Isalo. Here, it rains 200 days a year. We started the hike in thick fog, but the forest’s density protected us from the humidity. Be careful—it can be a bit frustrating to see the lemurs so far away, so high. Nothing like the Anja Reserve or Isalo NP. Here, what’s fun is the hunt.
· The baobabs We were captivated by these kings of the forest, noble, imposing, majestic. We spotted them from very far away, towering over the rest of the vegetation. Alone, in small groups, or in forests, our trip allowed us to see hundreds of them! Mainly on the west coast. All different—bald, hairy, shaggy, short and stout, tall and thin, like Laurel and Hardy. Philippe took to naming them. Respectfully!
OUR FAVORITES: · The variety of landscapes. · The Tsingy NP.
OUR DISAPPOINTMENTS: · The Avenue of the Baobabs, very overrated and the only place where we saw crowds. We saw many other "forests" of baobabs that were much more impressive. · It’s hard to approach the population calmly as swarms of children run up as soon as we arrive, asking for sweets. Without any aggression, their smiles and laughter quickly made us forget this small inconvenience. We never gave out candy, clothes, or money. We left pens at a school and clothes with Faly.
IF WE WERE TO DO IT AGAIN: · Same period, same duration, same pace, same itinerary, but if we were to do it again today, I’d go through Faly directly! · Maybe we should’ve stayed in Ambalavao instead of Fianarantsoa. · Plan a longer loop in the Great Tsingy—it felt a bit too short.
MISCELLANEOUS: The welcome: ‘Samala Vazaha,’ there are many, many kids, sometimes overwhelming, never aggressive. We were impressed by the villagers’ smiles and good humor, towards us or even among themselves—laughter was everywhere. Safety: No problems. Out of (excessive?) caution, we spread all our money across several bags that we padlocked whenever we left the hotel. Bribes: We were stopped several times on the road by police or gendarmes. They checked our papers, sometimes our passports. Faly was perfectly in order. No discussion, no bribes, a cordial greeting from the officers. However, several times we found ourselves at small "tolls" on the tracks for villagers who had leveled the road or filled a hole, or for the young guy who ran through the river to show the way... Faly complied without discussion: every service deserves a small bill. Language: French is still widely spoken. Credit card: Unused. Cash: You need it! The climate at this time: Ideal—blue skies, sunshine, and mild temperatures (20-25°C) throughout our trip. Temperatures started to drop by our departure—winter was setting in. Clothing: T-shirt or polo and a vest sometimes in the evening, sandals on our feet, hiking shoes for all the hikes. Tip: We left a bag in the car (completely safe) with things we didn’t need daily and dirty laundry. The two bags to take out at each stop were much lighter. Before leaving, we left several polos and T-shirts with Faly, which, once washed, will make a few people happy. Tourist crowds at this time: Low—we were sometimes the only guests at the hotel. Faly explained that at the Isalo picnic site, in high season, you have to queue for a table, whereas we had our pick. Photos: Lots! Too many! That’s the problem with digital—we take so many! Health issues: Nothing serious, just the usual mild traveler’s diarrhea. Mosquitoes: They’re voracious. We took anti-malaria treatment. I’m still not sure if it was the right thing to do... I’m always very skeptical about such precautions. Internet: Free Wi-Fi at the lodges’ reception (except at Hôtel Kanto!), sometimes (rarely) in the bungalows. Phone: We didn’t try to get a local SIM card—the evening Wi-Fi was enough for us to make calls and send messages via WhatsApp. Make sure to turn off mobile data and switch to airplane mode (I activated it a bit late—received calls, spam ones at that, were charged...). Electricity: French plugs. Personal purchases: Beautiful wooden objects (sculptures and marquetry) or zebu horn items in Ambositra. 1 kg of vanilla (400,000 Ar – 80 € per kg) in Tana.
IN CONCLUSION: A trip of contemplation. A pause for admiration, as our local guide in Isalo NP said. Nothing else to do but walk, look, and enjoy. Here, there are no old stones, no museums—it’s a trip where nature reigns supreme. And what nature!
Safari itinerary in Kruger Park and surrounding areas
Hi everyone,
I’m sharing the following itinerary for your experienced eyes 😏—I’m finalizing it for Kruger Park and two camps outside the park. We’re starting in the north, entering through Phalabowa Gate to head to Shingwedzi:
Shingwedzi Camp: 2 nights, sunrise drive Mopani Camp: 2 nights, morning walk and night drive Olifants Camp: 2 nights, morning walk Satara: 1 night, sunset drive Manyeleti Game Reserve: 1 night at Buffelshoek Lions Rock Luxury Tented Camp: 2 nights
Did I pick the right sunrise and sunset drives? Thanks in advance for your feedback and experiences! 😎
Shingwedzi Camp: 2 nights, sunrise drive Mopani Camp: 2 nights, morning walk and night drive Olifants Camp: 2 nights, morning walk Satara: 1 night, sunset drive Manyeleti Game Reserve: 1 night at Buffelshoek Lions Rock Luxury Tented Camp: 2 nights
Did I pick the right sunrise and sunset drives? Thanks in advance for your feedback and experiences! 😎
What budget should I plan for outings in Phuket?
Hi everyone, I hope you're doing well!
Just a quick question—I wanted to know, excluding accommodation and flight tickets, just for leisure activities and food on the spot,
I go out a lot so I’d like to know what the costs are for a budget that includes some outings, drinks, eating (local food), and a few massages (local massages).
Could those of you who know share some prices, please?
Do you think a budget of 100 € per day is reasonable?
I’ve read in some places that it’s more than enough, and in others that it’s really tight 😕
I hope I won’t have to watch every penny 😅
I’m staying for two months, from May 27th to the end of July.
Question about customs in San Francisco
Hi there,
We're leaving this Thursday, August 8th: Paris → Detroit → SF.
Today I'm loading up the app and filling it out at my own pace, knowing I'll need to take the photos when we arrive in Detroit to benefit from the fast-track customs process.
But what about SF? After a domestic flight, do we have to go through customs again?
I did Rapid City → Minneapolis → NYC a long time ago... can't remember how it worked...
Thanks!
Transatlantic Cruise Review: Oceania Rio to Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Hello everyone!
Booked the cruise a year in advance for a departure from Rio on April 5th.
Air France flight to Rio on April 3rd, arriving at the Windsor Plaza hotel, very well located just 300 meters from Copacabana Beach, with a pool on the 15th floor offering a view of Rio.
The next morning, a behind-the-scenes visit to Rio’s Carnival—there were still some floats not yet dismantled and a little samba session. At noon, lunch on Copacabana Beach, which was deserted due to rain and gray skies all day.
Saturday, April 5th, boarding the *Marina*—still raining :( To get around Rio, we used Uber, which was really cheap—5 euros for a 15-minute ride, while taxis cost double... Arrived at the cruise terminal, boarding was very quick as usual with Oceania. The cabins would be ready around 3 PM, with luggage at the cabin door. We had booked an inside cabin. Despite numerous offers from Oceania to upgrade (with a supplement, of course), we stuck with our first choice. It’s worth noting that at least 200 cabins remained unoccupied—about 800 passengers for this transatlantic crossing... Last September, since the cruise wasn’t filling up well, Oceania lowered the price by 1,000 euros per person for an inside cabin—a great deal for us, as they adjusted the rate downward when we asked.
For this cruise, weekends and drinks at the table were included—champagne, wine, beer...—plus an onboard credit that’s now only for excursions (before, it was more flexible—another downgrade, lol).
Headed to the Terrace Café for our first meal, and what a surprise when we saw the changes... No more staff mixing your chosen salad, and way fewer options: big bowls of salad, trays of potato salad, beets, lentils—I don’t remember seeing that before—thin slices of cold cuts and cheese. On the meat side, not much choice and lower quality. Desserts also had fewer options. Well, we’ll make up for it at Jacques on the first night ;) The menu hasn’t changed much—it’s still top-notch. The seasoning is average, but it’s a safe bet.
A little note on the 15-day cruise: we ate at 11 different restaurants—3 at Jacques, 3 at Polo Grill, 3 at Toscana, and 2 at Red Ginger. Not bad for two weeks ;) A French officer invited us to Toscana, which was really nice of her. Polo Grill is still amazing—I’d rank it second after Jacques, with Toscana third and Red Ginger last. I think since the ship wasn’t full, it was easier to get into these restaurants ;)
The staff was, as always, excellent. There were 3 French employees on the *Marina*: 1 waiter at Jacques, 1 manager at Wave, and 1 officer in the offices.
In the afternoon, Tea Time had way fewer pastry choices than before... Cost-cutting seems to be happening at every level. We met people who used to stay in Penthouse Suites—before, they got a bottle of champagne in their suite every night, but since January, it’s been Prosecco instead... Just a small example of Oceania’s cost reductions. At the Terrace Café in the evening, there was no more lobster on this cruise :(
Still, the value for money on this cruise was excellent given the price we paid per person. This transatlantic crossing had 4 stops in Brazil, 1 in the Cape Verde Islands, then Dakar in Senegal, and ended in the Canary Islands.
Mich74
Saturday, April 5th, boarding the *Marina*—still raining :( To get around Rio, we used Uber, which was really cheap—5 euros for a 15-minute ride, while taxis cost double... Arrived at the cruise terminal, boarding was very quick as usual with Oceania. The cabins would be ready around 3 PM, with luggage at the cabin door. We had booked an inside cabin. Despite numerous offers from Oceania to upgrade (with a supplement, of course), we stuck with our first choice. It’s worth noting that at least 200 cabins remained unoccupied—about 800 passengers for this transatlantic crossing... Last September, since the cruise wasn’t filling up well, Oceania lowered the price by 1,000 euros per person for an inside cabin—a great deal for us, as they adjusted the rate downward when we asked.
For this cruise, weekends and drinks at the table were included—champagne, wine, beer...—plus an onboard credit that’s now only for excursions (before, it was more flexible—another downgrade, lol).
Headed to the Terrace Café for our first meal, and what a surprise when we saw the changes... No more staff mixing your chosen salad, and way fewer options: big bowls of salad, trays of potato salad, beets, lentils—I don’t remember seeing that before—thin slices of cold cuts and cheese. On the meat side, not much choice and lower quality. Desserts also had fewer options. Well, we’ll make up for it at Jacques on the first night ;) The menu hasn’t changed much—it’s still top-notch. The seasoning is average, but it’s a safe bet.
A little note on the 15-day cruise: we ate at 11 different restaurants—3 at Jacques, 3 at Polo Grill, 3 at Toscana, and 2 at Red Ginger. Not bad for two weeks ;) A French officer invited us to Toscana, which was really nice of her. Polo Grill is still amazing—I’d rank it second after Jacques, with Toscana third and Red Ginger last. I think since the ship wasn’t full, it was easier to get into these restaurants ;)
The staff was, as always, excellent. There were 3 French employees on the *Marina*: 1 waiter at Jacques, 1 manager at Wave, and 1 officer in the offices.
In the afternoon, Tea Time had way fewer pastry choices than before... Cost-cutting seems to be happening at every level. We met people who used to stay in Penthouse Suites—before, they got a bottle of champagne in their suite every night, but since January, it’s been Prosecco instead... Just a small example of Oceania’s cost reductions. At the Terrace Café in the evening, there was no more lobster on this cruise :(
Still, the value for money on this cruise was excellent given the price we paid per person. This transatlantic crossing had 4 stops in Brazil, 1 in the Cape Verde Islands, then Dakar in Senegal, and ended in the Canary Islands.
Mich74
Feedback on 2-week road-trip itinerary in Nova Scotia
Hi there,
Our son is in Canada for a year on a Working Holiday Visa, and we’re planning to join him around September 20th for a 15-day campervan road trip in Nova Scotia.
I was thinking of going with Canadream, but if you have other rental companies to recommend, don’t hesitate!
Here’s the itinerary I’ve been considering—I tried not to cram in too many stops so we’re not just driving the whole time.
Day 1: Pick up campervan in Halifax at 3 PM. Stop at Peggy’s Cove, then drive to Lunenburg and Blue Rocks (151 km) Day 2: Explore Lunenburg, then head to Kejimkujik National Park for hikes or other activities. Overnight in the park (91 km) Day 3: Drive to Annapolis Royal (visit), Port-Royal National Historic Site, then on to Digby (111 km) Day 4: Ferry to Saint John (visit Reversing Falls), then drive to St. Andrews (103 km) Day 5: Whale-watching excursion and explore St. Andrews Day 6: Drive to Alma and Fundy National Park (233 km—we’ll probably leave St. Andrews the night before to split the drive and arrive earlier in Alma) Day 7: Hopewell Rocks (check tides) (43 km) Day 8: Hopewell Rocks—Tatamagouche (dinner train)—Pictou (237 km). Any suggestions for this day? Day 9: Drive to Baddeck, Cabot Trail to Chéticamp (317 km). Ideas for breaking up the drive? I thought of Pomquet Beach Provincial Park for a walk on the boardwalks, but any other suggestions are welcome. Day 10–11: Cape Breton Highlands National Park for hikes and Cabot Trail to Baddeck (208 km) Day 12: Explore Baddeck, Graham Bell Museum, and Bras d’Or Lake Drive. Drive to Louisbourg (118 km) Day 13: Fortress of Louisbourg, then drive to Liscomb (302 km) Day 14: Drive back to Halifax via Lawrencetown Beach (or other suggestions?). Fisherman’s Cove (205 km) Day 15: Return campervan by 10 AM
- All suggestions are welcome, as long as they don’t add too much detour from the main stops. We’d rather skip some places to fully enjoy the ones we visit. We love hiking in beautiful landscapes, charming and lively towns or villages, etc. - I wanted to add a museum dedicated to Acadian culture, but I didn’t find anything along the route—or they’re closed this time of year. Maybe there are places to listen to folk music? - If you have any campgrounds or wild camping spots to recommend, I’d love to hear about them. - Do we need to book the ferry this time of year?
Thanks in advance for your ideas and suggestions!
Claire
Day 1: Pick up campervan in Halifax at 3 PM. Stop at Peggy’s Cove, then drive to Lunenburg and Blue Rocks (151 km) Day 2: Explore Lunenburg, then head to Kejimkujik National Park for hikes or other activities. Overnight in the park (91 km) Day 3: Drive to Annapolis Royal (visit), Port-Royal National Historic Site, then on to Digby (111 km) Day 4: Ferry to Saint John (visit Reversing Falls), then drive to St. Andrews (103 km) Day 5: Whale-watching excursion and explore St. Andrews Day 6: Drive to Alma and Fundy National Park (233 km—we’ll probably leave St. Andrews the night before to split the drive and arrive earlier in Alma) Day 7: Hopewell Rocks (check tides) (43 km) Day 8: Hopewell Rocks—Tatamagouche (dinner train)—Pictou (237 km). Any suggestions for this day? Day 9: Drive to Baddeck, Cabot Trail to Chéticamp (317 km). Ideas for breaking up the drive? I thought of Pomquet Beach Provincial Park for a walk on the boardwalks, but any other suggestions are welcome. Day 10–11: Cape Breton Highlands National Park for hikes and Cabot Trail to Baddeck (208 km) Day 12: Explore Baddeck, Graham Bell Museum, and Bras d’Or Lake Drive. Drive to Louisbourg (118 km) Day 13: Fortress of Louisbourg, then drive to Liscomb (302 km) Day 14: Drive back to Halifax via Lawrencetown Beach (or other suggestions?). Fisherman’s Cove (205 km) Day 15: Return campervan by 10 AM
- All suggestions are welcome, as long as they don’t add too much detour from the main stops. We’d rather skip some places to fully enjoy the ones we visit. We love hiking in beautiful landscapes, charming and lively towns or villages, etc. - I wanted to add a museum dedicated to Acadian culture, but I didn’t find anything along the route—or they’re closed this time of year. Maybe there are places to listen to folk music? - If you have any campgrounds or wild camping spots to recommend, I’d love to hear about them. - Do we need to book the ferry this time of year?
Thanks in advance for your ideas and suggestions!
Claire
A super classic trio: Praslin, La Digue, Mahé (Seychelles)
Since no travel journal has been posted about this destination since 2020, I’m giving it a go—maybe it’ll jog some memories for a few of you or give others a few ideas... even if, in the end, there isn’t much to tell 😎!
Even though the itinerary was as classic as can be, it still led to a few brain knots: in what order? How many nights on each island? Rent a car or not?
In short, plenty of existential questions to land on 4 nights per island, finishing with Mahé to avoid any nasty surprises before the return flight.
Saturday 03/22: Flight to Mahé with Qatar Airways (no—or rather, no more—direct flights from Paris 😕) A nice surprise at CDG with the discovery of a new lounge in Terminal 1
Then, an in-depth exploration of Doha Airport thanks to (or because of) a loooong layover:

And finally, arrival at the tiny Mahé airport where we step onto the tarmac feeling like we’ve walked into a steam room
Baggage claim is quick, the shuttle to the port is on time, the ferry is punctual (we, on the other hand, are *very* early for it ), and there’s Praslin in sight:

... with a sneak peek of the sea’s colors 🙂 Quick note on the photos: most were taken with a smartphone, and the colors are a bit more saturated than in real life (I did bring my hybrid camera, but in the end, I barely used it since it wasn’t very practical to lug around on the water or for snorkeling).
We pick up the car (a Grand i10 instead of a Picanto) from a muddy parking lot (it just rained) and off we go—of course, with a windshield wiper instead of the turn signal 😎, left-hand driving obliges. In just a few minutes, we arrive at our accommodation for these 4 nights on Praslin (Oh, and now the "lien" tab isn’t working! ) We’re blown away by the view from the terrace:

Then by the view from the little shared terrace on a promontory:
Before heading to test the water temperature on the other side of the road, at Anse Boudin, and spotting our first fish.

Saturday 03/22: Flight to Mahé with Qatar Airways (no—or rather, no more—direct flights from Paris 😕) A nice surprise at CDG with the discovery of a new lounge in Terminal 1

Then, an in-depth exploration of Doha Airport thanks to (or because of) a loooong layover:

And finally, arrival at the tiny Mahé airport where we step onto the tarmac feeling like we’ve walked into a steam room
Baggage claim is quick, the shuttle to the port is on time, the ferry is punctual (we, on the other hand, are *very* early for it ), and there’s Praslin in sight:
... with a sneak peek of the sea’s colors 🙂 Quick note on the photos: most were taken with a smartphone, and the colors are a bit more saturated than in real life (I did bring my hybrid camera, but in the end, I barely used it since it wasn’t very practical to lug around on the water or for snorkeling).
We pick up the car (a Grand i10 instead of a Picanto) from a muddy parking lot (it just rained) and off we go—of course, with a windshield wiper instead of the turn signal 😎, left-hand driving obliges. In just a few minutes, we arrive at our accommodation for these 4 nights on Praslin (Oh, and now the "lien" tab isn’t working! ) We’re blown away by the view from the terrace:

Then by the view from the little shared terrace on a promontory:
Before heading to test the water temperature on the other side of the road, at Anse Boudin, and spotting our first fish.

Drinking water and cash in the United States
Hi there,
- Is tap water safe to drink everywhere in the U.S., or do you prefer bottled water?
- How do you handle money?
★ Is cash preferred and more commonly used than card payments?
★ For ATM withdrawals, what are the fees? I’ve read that bank ATMs have lower fees than those in some stores—is that true?
★ Is the cashback trick used in the U.S. (e.g., for a $100 purchase, you pay $150, and the cashier gives you $50 in cash)?
Thanks in advance to U.S. experts for your tips!
Egypt trip review - April 2025
We just got back from a trip to Egypt: 2 days in Cairo, then a week on the Nile with a cruise through a tour operator.
An incredible discovery of the Pyramids of Cairo—such an emotional moment! Then a wonderful stroll along the Nile, where we leisurely soaked in the "life" along this river.
An exceptional guide who transported us back less than 4,000–5,000 years BC...
But here’s the thing—because there’s often a "BUT"—the flip side is discovering a *very* polluted country! Even on the Nile, the number of boats is staggering (I went barefoot on the boat one day, and by the end of the day, my feet were black with soot?).
In Cairo, with nearly 20 million inhabitants, there’s trash everywhere (except around the airport and villa areas). We even saw a dead cow with stray dogs eating its "innards"—but no one seemed bothered! By the way, there are *tons* of wild dogs in Egypt and very few... cats!
One day after our arrival, we had to pay our entry visa to the guide on the bus—and *only* in cash? 95 EUROS???? A disgrace, since the visa price is $25 (as stated on the visa stamp)... Someone needs to explain where that money goes???
The excursions (optional ones) are *five times* more expensive than the posted rates for tourists. There are two prices: one for Egyptians (which makes sense, given an average salary of 360 euros/month). On top of that, the cruise manager asked us to pay half in cash and half by card (we refused and paid everything in cash). First time I’ve ever seen that payment method for excursions—where *does* the money go?...
During a stop in Aswan, we wanted to visit the Nubian Museum (amazing!). We took a carriage, and before leaving, we agreed on a round-trip price of 20 euros for 4 people to take us to the museum. It was all good with the driver—who called himself "Michel" and his poor horse, Rambo. On the way back, of course, he caused a scene, demanding *much* more... We refused and gave him the 20 euros we’d agreed on. But then, as if by chance, this same carriage driver stopped for a man who asked us to exchange two 20-euro bills and 10 one-euro coins for a 50-euro bill. I pulled out my 50-euro note while talking to Michel, and the other guy claimed I’d given him a 10-euro bill?? He handed me the bill—so you get the scam!
So, be *very* careful with carriage drivers and their "colleagues"!
Drinks on board are outrageously priced—a simple beer (Stella) costs 5 euros, and the wine is undrinkable...
Tips are expected in euros—they won’t accept Egyptian pounds... and of course, you’re constantly harassed to exchange 5-euro or 10-euro bills, or even more! They end up with tons of coins, so we did it at first, but after a while, it’s just not possible—they insist way too much!
I’ll stop here—it’s already quite long. So, a mixed-feelings trip overall...
philippe
philippe
Family Road Trip from Salt Lake City to Salt Lake City
Hello fellow travel forum members,
This time, it's real, concrete stuff.
We’ll be going on a road trip in September this year (if all goes well, yes, I know it’s a bit superstitious, but I can’t help it, especially with the current family circumstances).
There’ll be four of us: my husband, our two grown kids (20 and 24), and me.
The flights aren’t booked yet because I’m still hesitating over the dates (it’s down to a day or two). They should be finalized by the end of this week or sometime next week.
J1 - Friday, August 29: Brussels-SLC via Amsterdam with KLM (I’d love your opinions on this airline since I’ve never flown with them before) – arrival scheduled for early afternoon. J2 - Saturday, August 30: SLC-Moab J3 - Sunday, August 31: Arches – we’ll see if we can get tickets; otherwise, we’ll wake up at dawn (entries possible without a reservation before 7 am) J4 - Monday, September 1: Arches J5 - Tuesday, September 2: Moab - Grand Teton – night booked J6 - Wednesday, September 3: Grand Teton – night booked J7 - Thursday, September 4: Grand Teton - Jackson J8 - Friday, September 5: Jackson J9 - Saturday, September 6: Jackson – evening: Rodeo (tickets booked) J10 - Sunday, September 7: Jackson - Yellowstone – night booked at Lake Yellowstone J11 - Monday, September 8: Yellowstone – night booked at Canyon Lodge J12 - Tuesday, September 9: Yellowstone – night booked at Canyon Lodge J13 - Wednesday, September 10: Yellowstone – night booked at Old Faithful Snow J14 - Thursday, September 11: Yellowstone – night booked at Old Faithful Snow J15 - Friday, September 12: Yellowstone - SLC J16 - Saturday, September 13: departure from SLC J17 - Sunday, September 14: arrival in Brussels
As I mentioned in the intro, the departure and return dates aren’t set in stone yet. Normally, we’d leave on August 29, which would mean visiting Moab and Arches. Otherwise, we’d leave on August 30 and stay in SLC. Around SLC, we’d explore the area, but I’ll admit I’m a bit stuck on what to do there.
For the return, we’d leave SLC on Saturday, September 13, or Sunday, September 14. Our youngest starts classes on Monday, September 15, but he doesn’t mind starting a day later.
Some things are already booked and paid for and can’t be changed (or only with difficulty), so please keep that in mind in your comments. 😕
I’d love to hear about your experiences with a few questions:
* Is it too ambitious to include Arches in the road trip? Especially since the drives are long, particularly the Moab-Grand Teton stretch.
* What do you recommend doing around SLC?
* Same for Jackson. We’ve decided to spend two full days there to take a break between the national parks.
* For the return, I was wondering if spending a day in SLC before heading back to Europe might be a good idea.
Thanks so much in advance for your advice!
Patricia
This time, it's real, concrete stuff.
We’ll be going on a road trip in September this year (if all goes well, yes, I know it’s a bit superstitious, but I can’t help it, especially with the current family circumstances).
There’ll be four of us: my husband, our two grown kids (20 and 24), and me.
The flights aren’t booked yet because I’m still hesitating over the dates (it’s down to a day or two). They should be finalized by the end of this week or sometime next week.
J1 - Friday, August 29: Brussels-SLC via Amsterdam with KLM (I’d love your opinions on this airline since I’ve never flown with them before) – arrival scheduled for early afternoon. J2 - Saturday, August 30: SLC-Moab J3 - Sunday, August 31: Arches – we’ll see if we can get tickets; otherwise, we’ll wake up at dawn (entries possible without a reservation before 7 am) J4 - Monday, September 1: Arches J5 - Tuesday, September 2: Moab - Grand Teton – night booked J6 - Wednesday, September 3: Grand Teton – night booked J7 - Thursday, September 4: Grand Teton - Jackson J8 - Friday, September 5: Jackson J9 - Saturday, September 6: Jackson – evening: Rodeo (tickets booked) J10 - Sunday, September 7: Jackson - Yellowstone – night booked at Lake Yellowstone J11 - Monday, September 8: Yellowstone – night booked at Canyon Lodge J12 - Tuesday, September 9: Yellowstone – night booked at Canyon Lodge J13 - Wednesday, September 10: Yellowstone – night booked at Old Faithful Snow J14 - Thursday, September 11: Yellowstone – night booked at Old Faithful Snow J15 - Friday, September 12: Yellowstone - SLC J16 - Saturday, September 13: departure from SLC J17 - Sunday, September 14: arrival in Brussels
As I mentioned in the intro, the departure and return dates aren’t set in stone yet. Normally, we’d leave on August 29, which would mean visiting Moab and Arches. Otherwise, we’d leave on August 30 and stay in SLC. Around SLC, we’d explore the area, but I’ll admit I’m a bit stuck on what to do there.
For the return, we’d leave SLC on Saturday, September 13, or Sunday, September 14. Our youngest starts classes on Monday, September 15, but he doesn’t mind starting a day later.
Some things are already booked and paid for and can’t be changed (or only with difficulty), so please keep that in mind in your comments. 😕
I’d love to hear about your experiences with a few questions:
* Is it too ambitious to include Arches in the road trip? Especially since the drives are long, particularly the Moab-Grand Teton stretch.
* What do you recommend doing around SLC?
* Same for Jackson. We’ve decided to spend two full days there to take a break between the national parks.
* For the return, I was wondering if spending a day in SLC before heading back to Europe might be a good idea.
Thanks so much in advance for your advice!
Patricia
Sumatra Questions: Domestic Flights and Route Direction
Hi there,
After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore.
We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore.
Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh.
Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄.
My questions:
- Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)?
- Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer?
Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊
Sabino Canyon
Hi everyone! 🙂
Since my 2024 travel journal is finally posted, I’m diving into planning our September road trip to the part of Arizona we haven’t explored yet and to New Mexico, which we don’t know at all.

Flights, accommodations, and the rental car are all set—I just need to organize the stops. On the day we arrive in Phoenix (we’re staying in Gold Canyon), I’ve planned a visit to Lost Dutchman State Park at sunset with a short hike and a stop at Goldfield Ghost Town. I was thinking of driving as far as Tortilla Flat, but it might be tight, especially since our flight lands at 12:50 PM, and the most scenic part of the Apache Trail seems to be just past Tortilla Flat. The next day, we’re heading to Tucson for three nights. The first day will be dedicated to Saguaro East (near our hotel), the following day to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, then the Bajada Loop Drive with two short hikes, and the North Kidney Road up to the OVL. Finally, on the last day, we’ll visit Sabino Canyon and hike to Seven Falls—and this is where I could use your insights! The hike is 13 km if we don’t take the shuttle. If we do, it’s only 8 km. Are those kilometers flat, or does it climb right from the start? And if we take the shuttle, where should we get off? Is the trail well-marked? I’ve heard it’s not very clearly signposted.
Thanks in advance for your tips, and I’ll be back with more questions soon! Marcalamar 🙂
Since my 2024 travel journal is finally posted, I’m diving into planning our September road trip to the part of Arizona we haven’t explored yet and to New Mexico, which we don’t know at all.

Flights, accommodations, and the rental car are all set—I just need to organize the stops. On the day we arrive in Phoenix (we’re staying in Gold Canyon), I’ve planned a visit to Lost Dutchman State Park at sunset with a short hike and a stop at Goldfield Ghost Town. I was thinking of driving as far as Tortilla Flat, but it might be tight, especially since our flight lands at 12:50 PM, and the most scenic part of the Apache Trail seems to be just past Tortilla Flat. The next day, we’re heading to Tucson for three nights. The first day will be dedicated to Saguaro East (near our hotel), the following day to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, then the Bajada Loop Drive with two short hikes, and the North Kidney Road up to the OVL. Finally, on the last day, we’ll visit Sabino Canyon and hike to Seven Falls—and this is where I could use your insights! The hike is 13 km if we don’t take the shuttle. If we do, it’s only 8 km. Are those kilometers flat, or does it climb right from the start? And if we take the shuttle, where should we get off? Is the trail well-marked? I’ve heard it’s not very clearly signposted.
Thanks in advance for your tips, and I’ll be back with more questions soon! Marcalamar 🙂
Cécile, from Big Sur to Sausalito
After our first trip discovering the American West with our teens, Cécile asked me to go back for a romantic getaway to this wonderful destination. Whatever my wife wants, so here we are on a plane in September 2022, heading to San Francisco. Since we’d already visited the main parks two years earlier, this time we took the scenic route:

We arrived late in the evening, spent a short night at the hotel, and picked up our rental car to hit Highway 1 and the Pacific coast. The sky was gray, foggy, and a bit disappointing for now.

As Brittany lovers, we know coastal weather can change quickly... but no! Bixby Bridge was just a quick view from the car, and it was only 11°C outside.

We had a quick picnic on the spot, quickly bothered by the local wildlife.

And then—miracle! This charming animal made the wind shift and brought us sunshine. So this coast is absolutely worth the trip—it’s just stunning.

Only the sound of the wind and the seals’ calls disturbed the tranquility of the moment.


But even the best things come to an end, and we turned inland toward the sequoias. We drove through a long plain with fruit trees, vineyards, and endless straight roads.


First night at the hotel, tired but happy! !

We arrived late in the evening, spent a short night at the hotel, and picked up our rental car to hit Highway 1 and the Pacific coast. The sky was gray, foggy, and a bit disappointing for now.

As Brittany lovers, we know coastal weather can change quickly... but no! Bixby Bridge was just a quick view from the car, and it was only 11°C outside.

We had a quick picnic on the spot, quickly bothered by the local wildlife.

And then—miracle! This charming animal made the wind shift and brought us sunshine. So this coast is absolutely worth the trip—it’s just stunning.

Only the sound of the wind and the seals’ calls disturbed the tranquility of the moment.


But even the best things come to an end, and we turned inland toward the sequoias. We drove through a long plain with fruit trees, vineyards, and endless straight roads.


First night at the hotel, tired but happy! !
Accommodation near the beach in Koh Samui
Hi there, We're thinking of spending 3 weeks in Koh Samui at the start of 2026. Where can we find accommodation close to a pretty beach that's not too touristy but not isolated either, near a small town or village? We've already been to Surin Beach on Phuket Island. We really liked that spot, but we've heard Koh Samui is great too. Thanks for your tips!
Cambodia Information
hi there
since the forum is back up, let’s try to gather some updated info.
first off, arrival formalities are changing—starting January 1st, you’ll need to fill out an electronic form before arrival. This replaces the paperwork you used to fill out on the plane or at the airport (for air arrivals). Here’s the link: https://www.arrival.gov.kh/.
for visas, the same options remain: e-visa, visa on arrival, or visa at the embassy. The standard price is $30 on arrival, but at land borders, be prepared for a small "extra" for "cigarettes or coffee."
don’t forget your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return.
regarding airlines, prices are pretty high for carriers like Singapore, Qatar, Emirates, Vietnam Airlines, and Thai. EVA Air is a great Taiwanese airline with slightly lower fares, but ongoing pressure from mainland China and quasi-blockades could cause delays or issues—something to watch.
there are cheaper Chinese airlines, but friends from China advise being cautious with connections. Worth double-checking.
transport is evolving too—there’s now a highway from Phnom Penh to Kampot. Soraya, a well-known bus company, has disappeared. More highway projects are in the works. Buildings are popping up fast, just mentioning this for those who haven’t been to Cambodia in a while.
Sugar overload in the American West
After a first trip with her teens to the West during Easter 2019 and then to New York at All Saints' Day that same year, Cécile has only one idea in 2022: to go back!!!! So, we’re planning a loop from SF to SF, passing through the sequoias, LV, Death Valley, and Yellowstone.

Off we go, full of joy and good spirits, heading to San Francisco. To make the flight more comfortable, I’d booked a seat with extra legroom.

Really nice!

Anyway, everything went smoothly until we arrived—1h30 of waiting at customs!!!
But no matter, around 11 PM, we took the shuttle to a hotel, tired but happy

Off we go, full of joy and good spirits, heading to San Francisco. To make the flight more comfortable, I’d booked a seat with extra legroom.

Really nice!

Anyway, everything went smoothly until we arrived—1h30 of waiting at customs!!!

But no matter, around 11 PM, we took the shuttle to a hotel, tired but happy
A trip to Australia: the Northern Territory.
Thursday, November 2, 2023
Lake Argyle – Katherine

We had a great time. Now we’ve got to pay the price. We’re down one stop before Katherine. Gotta do the whole trip in one go—6 hours of driving. Let’s go! We’re a bit low on fuel with only 300 kilometers of range. The only station at the lake doesn’t open until 9 a.m., and the next (and only) one is 227 kilometers away… Should we risk it? Except for a magnificent frilled-neck lizard darting across the road on its big hind legs and an emu quickly disappearing into the bush, we didn’t see much. Oh—there was also a donkey, lost and panicked in the middle of the road… A quiet road with some beautiful scenery,
some worrying bushfires

and a few opportunities to stop for a "warrior’s rest" (never go beyond the first second of the thought that starts drifting off the road…)
We cross an invisible border as we enter the Northern Territory, which comes with consequences—we immediately lose an hour and a half by changing time zones. The speed limit goes from 110 to 130.

We arrive at the self check-in in Katherine. As usual, we’re a little taken aback at first. The noise, for starters. There’s a group rehearsing, it seems. We go check it out. We pass through the doors separating "The Stuart" from the adjoining bar and stumble upon what feels like collective hysteria. Turns out, it’s a concert. Aboriginal musicians completely fired up by some incredible music! There are just three of them, but they’re delivering a wall of sound that reminds us of South Africa’s finest neo-techno with a trance-like vibe. The crowd is wild! They’re singing in unison, screaming with joy. We get gently kicked out by security because we’re carrying our groceries, and they’re not having it. We promise ourselves we’ll come back once we’ve put them away in our little fridge.
Then we land. We end up finding plenty of nice things. It’s very possible we’ll like this place!
We head back to enjoy our post-battle Happy Hour.
The concert’s over, but the crowd’s still riding the high. It’s indescribable. People are shouting across the room, screaming just for the fun of it—men and women alike. There’s pool, some beat-up arcade games being shaken like coconut trees. Dom and I feel like anthropologists. We’re pretty blown away. It’s epic! And the beer’s half the price it is elsewhere! We’ll definitely be back—that’s for sure!
We give up on finding a restaurant. Not sure they even exist, at least not this season. So, we’ve got a microwave—we eat at home on our little terrace, with a musical accompaniment from a massive orchestra of birds.
It sounds amazing!


We had a great time. Now we’ve got to pay the price. We’re down one stop before Katherine. Gotta do the whole trip in one go—6 hours of driving. Let’s go! We’re a bit low on fuel with only 300 kilometers of range. The only station at the lake doesn’t open until 9 a.m., and the next (and only) one is 227 kilometers away… Should we risk it? Except for a magnificent frilled-neck lizard darting across the road on its big hind legs and an emu quickly disappearing into the bush, we didn’t see much. Oh—there was also a donkey, lost and panicked in the middle of the road… A quiet road with some beautiful scenery,
some worrying bushfires

and a few opportunities to stop for a "warrior’s rest" (never go beyond the first second of the thought that starts drifting off the road…)
We cross an invisible border as we enter the Northern Territory, which comes with consequences—we immediately lose an hour and a half by changing time zones. The speed limit goes from 110 to 130.

We arrive at the self check-in in Katherine. As usual, we’re a little taken aback at first. The noise, for starters. There’s a group rehearsing, it seems. We go check it out. We pass through the doors separating "The Stuart" from the adjoining bar and stumble upon what feels like collective hysteria. Turns out, it’s a concert. Aboriginal musicians completely fired up by some incredible music! There are just three of them, but they’re delivering a wall of sound that reminds us of South Africa’s finest neo-techno with a trance-like vibe. The crowd is wild! They’re singing in unison, screaming with joy. We get gently kicked out by security because we’re carrying our groceries, and they’re not having it. We promise ourselves we’ll come back once we’ve put them away in our little fridge.
Then we land. We end up finding plenty of nice things. It’s very possible we’ll like this place!

We head back to enjoy our post-battle Happy Hour.
The concert’s over, but the crowd’s still riding the high. It’s indescribable. People are shouting across the room, screaming just for the fun of it—men and women alike. There’s pool, some beat-up arcade games being shaken like coconut trees. Dom and I feel like anthropologists. We’re pretty blown away. It’s epic! And the beer’s half the price it is elsewhere! We’ll definitely be back—that’s for sure!We give up on finding a restaurant. Not sure they even exist, at least not this season. So, we’ve got a microwave—we eat at home on our little terrace, with a musical accompaniment from a massive orchestra of birds.
It sounds amazing!

Two weeks in Bangkok: your off-the-beaten-path suggestions
Hello,
After a lot of searching, exchanging ideas, and thinking it over, I’ve decided to go back to my original plan of spending two weeks in Bangkok. From January 19th to February 2nd. I’ll also take a quick trip for one night/two days to Ayutthaya (and return to Bangkok, where I’ll have kept the apartment I booked), and possibly the same for Kanchanaburi, depending on how I feel once I’m there—whether I find something more interesting in Bangkok or nearby.
The key word is: taking my time to take photos, observe, taste, savor (in every sense of the word), and most importantly, not rushing.
Beyond the must-see tourist spots, I’d love to wander around the city and maybe within a 40 to 50 km radius for a day trip to discover unusual and lesser-known streets, houses, temples, markets, gardens, and more.
I’ll also be spending two weeks in Chiang Mai and two weeks in Nan.
I’m open to any suggestions. Thank you so much!
Southwest Part 2: 55 Days in Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah
This travel journal is the second part of the trip whose first part you can find here: 1st part...
Sunday, August 7: the day we discover a magical place... Edmaier's Secret...
We got up at 8:00 AM, had breakfast on the terrace of our tiny house, and then set off again toward yesterday’s trail. This time, we stopped after 4.5 miles on House Rock Valley Road at the Buckskin Gulch Trail parking lot. We weren’t interested in that trail today—the slot canyon is muddy anyway after the recent storms...
Instead, we explored a lesser-known area that became our playground. And what a playground it was, folks—an out-of-this-world spot, THE highlight of our trip!!! 😏
Just imagine being in the middle of these landscapes, and the cherry on top... no one else around!!!!! Well, we did meet a couple who were coming back—it was 9:30 AM 😮. Did they camp there? Did they turn back? 🙁
After paying the entry permit online, we set off with plenty of water (6L for the four of us) plus a gallon we hid along the way for the return trip. 😉 After a one-hour approach hike along a wash, we reached the sea of sand.

We had to cross it to reach our goal: a strip about 2 km long and 1 km wide that you can explore freely since there’s no marked trail... We entered a few GPS points into our Garmin Etrex, and off we went!!! 😎 It was... magical, enchanting, a true love-at-first-sight moment!

Brain Rock, waves, fine and brittle rock, colors—it goes up, it goes down.



Just thinking about it gives me chills... I remember sitting still for two minutes, taking in these wonders with such emotion that I teared up...





Sunday, August 7: the day we discover a magical place... Edmaier's Secret...
We got up at 8:00 AM, had breakfast on the terrace of our tiny house, and then set off again toward yesterday’s trail. This time, we stopped after 4.5 miles on House Rock Valley Road at the Buckskin Gulch Trail parking lot. We weren’t interested in that trail today—the slot canyon is muddy anyway after the recent storms...
Instead, we explored a lesser-known area that became our playground. And what a playground it was, folks—an out-of-this-world spot, THE highlight of our trip!!! 😏
Just imagine being in the middle of these landscapes, and the cherry on top... no one else around!!!!! Well, we did meet a couple who were coming back—it was 9:30 AM 😮. Did they camp there? Did they turn back? 🙁
After paying the entry permit online, we set off with plenty of water (6L for the four of us) plus a gallon we hid along the way for the return trip. 😉 After a one-hour approach hike along a wash, we reached the sea of sand.

We had to cross it to reach our goal: a strip about 2 km long and 1 km wide that you can explore freely since there’s no marked trail... We entered a few GPS points into our Garmin Etrex, and off we went!!! 😎 It was... magical, enchanting, a true love-at-first-sight moment!

Brain Rock, waves, fine and brittle rock, colors—it goes up, it goes down.



Just thinking about it gives me chills... I remember sitting still for two minutes, taking in these wonders with such emotion that I teared up...




