last edited Dec 11, 2019
Crossing Borders Smoothly
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Dress and Behavior
Two things we sometimes forget when crossing a border, but which can occasionally signal the start of trouble...
Things to Know Beforehand
While in Europe and a few other countries, crossing borders poses little difficulty for most French travelers (at least in principle), elsewhere—or for certain types of trips, especially when traveling with your own vehicle—things can sometimes be a bit different.
Though the risk of being turned away isn’t huge, crossing a border or customs can still lead to some difficulties, require time and patience, and even cost unexpected money...
The first (and main) thing to know is that customs officers and police—whether you like it or not—will always have the upper hand, with the power to turn you away or prolong your hassles if they wish (and they know it!). So, unless you have good local connections or enjoy procedures, complications, and unnecessary delays, don’t forget this. That doesn’t mean you should accept anything and everything without question, though. It’s simply useful to know a few tricks to avoid too much trouble.
Dress
Like everyone else, your counterparts will judge you first—even unconsciously—on your appearance and behavior. In some countries, the backpacker look isn’t always appreciated. So, first rule: always dress smartly when crossing borders.
In many "developing" countries, a traveler—usually assumed to be "Western"—arriving looking scruffy (and thus, in many minds, not very wealthy) won’t be well received by local authorities, especially if some of them have lived in Europe or the USA. The "Kathmandu-hippie-drifter" tourist isn’t really what most countries are looking for, which, in a way, is understandable.
In terms of dress, avoid anything that might shock, whether through excessive originality or by clashing with local customs. For example, in many Muslim countries, women should avoid overly revealing clothing (elsewhere too, but for different reasons...). Also, avoid speaking to customs officers while wearing sunglasses. This can be seen as a sign of disdain or, worse, raise suspicions ("Why is he hiding his eyes?").
Behavior
Stay Calm
Some border or customs crossings can drag on. Even so, the first rule is to always stay calm. Even if things are slow or complicated, there’s no point in getting upset, especially not by playing the lecturing Westerner generously offering their dollars to the country. Almost always, judging things by your own standards—especially time and efficiency—will only reinforce your counterparts’ convictions and make the situation worse. No one likes being disrespected in their work. So stay calm and polite; that doesn’t mean you can’t be firm if needed. It’s just a matter of how...
"Higher Authorities"
As for wanting to escalate problems to higher authorities, your country’s representatives, etc., think twice before doing so.
Unless things get really serious, it’s better to abstain—especially if you don’t know who to turn to at that moment. Remember that going up the chain of command risks complicating the situation to the point of making it "official," with no real chance of an amicable resolution or a "face-saving" exit for either side. Not to mention the time and other hassles it will involve. If you must complain, do it afterward or upon return to the appropriate authorities, even if it’s unlikely to have any effect.
At the Border/Customs Post
Arriving by Land
When arriving by land, it can sometimes be tricky to spot the right offices and staff at certain border posts. Again, no need to get worked up—start by observing and asking around. Often, you’ll be directed automatically before you’ve even said anything. For a few bills, someone may even offer to help with your paperwork. As with guides, it’s up to you; but if you don’t speak the language, face complex procedures, or just want to get things done quickly, it’s an option. As always, negotiate the price beforehand.
Amid the "hustle and bustle" that can sometimes reign inside a customs post, don’t panic. Observe and identify the "boss" to whom you should address yourself.
At border posts that rarely see Westerners, you’ll quickly become a curiosity, a status symbol (especially for the boss), and a source of cigarettes (preferably premium brands) or even foreign currency. Without letting yourself be fleeced, don’t reject these contacts—on the contrary. They can help build a relationship that might be useful later if problems arise. A few words in the local language will go a long way.
Respect local practices too: don’t smoke if no one else is, and don’t sit on the ground—sometimes frowned upon for a European.
Finally, in some countries, it’s better for a man rather than a woman to handle the paperwork, especially if there are problems.
Arriving by Plane
The process is often much simpler, faster, and more streamlined than land crossings. That said, controls—often for various reasons—are usually stricter, especially in large airports. Plus, given the assembly-line work of police and customs officers, don’t expect to establish a "special connection" that might help in case of trouble. In short, even more than at land borders, it’s best to always stay calm.
Handling Problems
When it comes to trouble, stick to your own and don’t intervene in locals’ issues, even if you witness questionable practices like police extortion (common at some African borders) or certain arrests. You’re unlikely to know the full story, and there’s little you can do.
In short, with the right behavior and dress, you’ll already limit difficulties when crossing borders.
Luggage and Travel Documents
Obviously, for both your travel documents and luggage, it’s best to be in order.
Luggage
Generally, your luggage will be most thoroughly searched at airports, both on departure (always) and return. By land, customs officers will be less interested in your belongings—unless they decide to make an example of you or the border is in a high-risk or trafficking zone. Still, keep an eye on your bags to prevent them from being used to distract police while prohibited items are planted (giving real traffickers a clear path or at least less scrutiny). On the other hand, don’t carry anything that might irritate customs: alcohol in some Muslim countries, prohibited foodstuffs for health reasons, or readings deemed subversive by the regime (you’ll have to judge which ones). At best, you’ll face confiscation; at worst, a more thorough search with additional hassles.
On another note, never accept luggage from someone you don’t know well, especially on a plane. And never—under any circumstances—carry drugs, even soft ones or in small quantities, when crossing a border, even if they’re widely available in the country. If discovered, you could face real trouble, including long prison sentences or worse in some Southeast Asian countries.
Don’t forget that when returning home, you’ll also have to clear your country’s customs. French travelers should remember that both within the European Union and elsewhere, there are precise regulations on goods and merchandise. Buying counterfeits is also an offense, as is importing certain live plants and animals.
Customs: What You Can Bring Back
For residents of the European area traveling within or coming from outside it.
Travel Documents
In practice, crossing difficulties are most often linked to the necessary travel documents. It can already be helpful to check basic requirements (passport, visa, vaccination record, etc.) before departure or along the way.
Passport and Visas
Watch your passport’s validity—most countries require it to be valid for 6 months after your planned return date (and if you run into a strict officer...).
The same goes for long trips regarding visas, some of which have limited validity. In this case, you can get them at the last minute or ask for them to be post-dated (sometimes possible for a few days).
In some countries, visas can theoretically be obtained upon arrival. If you choose this option, confirm with consular authorities before leaving (in writing if you think there’s a risk). When entering the country, avoid small border posts where staff may not be informed and will turn you away without question.
Also, your visa’s duration will depend on the return date on your ticket or, if continuing by land with an open or long-validity ticket, the officer’s discretion. Often, it’s a matter of first impressions. If you plan multiple entries, get a multiple-entry visa.
Don’t forget that if a visa is needed to enter, you’ll usually also need to have your passport stamped before leaving the country. This may require finding the right office, which won’t always be at the border if it’s in a remote area (it might be in a larger town).
Photo/Video Equipment, Computer
You may also be asked for receipts for your photo, video, or laptop equipment. This is relatively rare, though, and mostly concerns your country’s customs when returning from a destination known for good deals in these areas. To avoid trouble, you can register your equipment for free on a “Free Circulation Card” valid for 10 years. Just present the items and receipts (including tax payments if bought abroad) to customs.
Resources and Travel Purpose
Beyond legal documents, some countries may also take an interest in your resources and travel purpose.
Travel Purpose
Unless you’re sent by your company with all the right paperwork, always say it’s for tourism, even if you hope to do business or find a job there. In most countries, work and even studies are strictly regulated and require specific formalities. For business travel, visas are often much more expensive than tourist ones.
Similarly, avoid saying you’re a journalist or plan to report on the country—two things not always appreciated by authorities, especially in countries under media scrutiny. In short, play the average tourist.
Resources and More
Your resources will be of particular interest if you look like a budget traveler—i.e., backpacking. A credit card, a stack of traveler’s checks, or cash (including small bills to look more substantial) will always reassure. When arriving by plane, you’ll often be asked for a hotel address. Always give a mid- to high-end establishment (but not too high if you don’t look the part), even if you plan to stay in the cheapest place in town.
Services
Similarly, for some countries or transport modes, you’re theoretically required to have booked a minimum of services before arrival. This is the case for charter flights (not regular ones) to North African countries, Senegal, or Turkey. Fortunately, for travelers organizing their own trips, this requirement is often just theoretical and is bypassed by agencies adding fake services to your ticket to meet the host country’s original rules.
To boost revenue—and sometimes control visitors, as in Bhutan—some countries (or certain regions requiring permits) may occasionally refuse visas to individuals and only accept groups. Note that such rules often apply to applications made at consulates in Europe, while in neighboring countries or even at borders, individuals can easily obtain visas. Laos was once a typical case, with visa refusals for individuals in France but easy approval in Bangkok or on-site. In fact, Bhutan is the only country with a strict policy on this.
Invitation
More restrictive is the mandatory "invitation" (essentially the same as services) still required by a few rare countries. Here, you must go through a local agency to get your visa and cross the border.
Continuation or Return Ticket
Another traditional border complication is not having a continuation ticket. Some countries—particularly in Africa but also the USA—may cause problems if you don’t have proof of onward travel (sometimes even when applying for a visa).
If you show you have enough money and explain you’re continuing to another country, things may work out. If not, the solution is to buy a full-fare ticket to a nearby destination. If unused, it can be refunded to your bank account without penalties (a key feature of full-fare tickets), with only minor administrative fees. The only downside is that it may take some time and tie up funds.
Vehicle Papers
But more than the pedestrian traveler, those traveling with their own vehicle will often face the most hassles—if only due to the special papers and documents required (insurance, customs passbook, etc.).
Miscellaneous Papers
Beyond these "classic" documents, there are country-specific ones (immigration forms, tax payment certificates, etc.) that you won’t want to lose between entry and exit, or you’ll face complications or extra costs.
Border Situations
Problems, difficulties, or even impossibilities crossing between countries.