Andalusia and the White Villages
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
CL
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to the White Villages and noticed that many are in the Province of Cádiz—like Setenil de las Bodegas, Olvera, Ubrique, Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Medina-Sidonia, and Vejer de la Frontera. Are all of these worth visiting, or are there others you’d recommend? I’ve already been to Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda in the area and wouldn’t mind returning, of course. I’m also considering the Caminito del Rey, so maybe a few interesting villages in the province of Málaga too. Do you think an itinerary starting from Málaga (arriving at the airport) with 2 or 3 stops (like Ronda, Arcos, and a third in one of these villages) would work? Thanks for your tips!
NO Normandaluz Veteran ·
Hi there, The white villages are really pretty, but if you do too many, it gets repetitive fast. A lot of them look nice from a distance, but once you're inside, not so much.

The most beautiful ones are Arcos and Ronda, but you probably already know them. Setenil is surprising. I like Medina Sidonia, but I was disappointed by Ubrique.

If you do the "Caminito del Rey," I recommend Antequera—a really pretty little town—and "El Torcal," nearby, a kind of rocky chaos.
BA Barneyg Regular ·
I assume you’ve already been to Cádiz?

We saw the first four on your list. Setenil is the most unique. Olvera is very photogenic—the main road is the best spot for an overview. Ubrique is a large town, visually it’s not that striking. Grazalema is a lovely hillside village, easy to visit from Ronda.

We skipped Vejer de la Frontera due to lack of time, but we did visit the Roman ruins of Bolonia (Baelo Claudia) a bit further south. They’re interesting and in a really beautiful setting.
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks for your reply. I can imagine you might get tired of seeing "too many" villages, but you could always make a selection—or at least spend less time in some of them. I think the surroundings must also be enjoyable to make the most of the beautiful scenery this stunning region has to offer
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks Carl for your reply. No, I can’t say I really know Cádiz—I passed through a long time ago, wandered around a bit, but didn’t stay. I know Seville, Córdoba, and Granada well as the big cities, and then Ronda, where I’m thinking of booking accommodation, at least in the area, as a base to explore this part of the region. I also know Arcos, which might be a second base for exploring the Cádiz area or even heading down to Medina Sidonia—we’ll see.
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Claude,

The villages you mentioned are in the province of Cádiz but most of them are (very) close to Ronda: Setenil de las Bodegas, Olvera, Ubrique, Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Medina-Sidonia, Vejer de la Frontera. You can skip Ubrique, Medina, and Vejer if you want. On the other hand, add Gaucin and Génalguacil. And for the lesser-known one: Benarrabá. Ronda is a good base for visiting these villages, including El Caminito del Rey. For the latter, I recommend booking as soon as possible... and for your comfort, plan to park at the start (at the top) so you can finish at the bottom, near the buses that go back up to the start. This avoids stressing over the schedule... been there, done that! And all of this will be easier if you start from Málaga...

Option 1: Depart from Málaga, head toward Coín, El Burgo, and Ronda via the Sierra de las Nieves (total change of scenery).

Option 2: Depart from Málaga, take the coast road via Marbella to Estepona (both old towns are worth a stop), then take the road to Genalguacil via El Puerto de Peñas Blancas, then Algatocín, and finally Ronda.

Have a great trip! You’re leaving at the end of February for 6 weeks down there...
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks Philippe, Depending on the time we have, we’ll probably have to make a few choices, and some villages will deserve more or less time based on how interesting they are. For the Caminito del Rey, is it still really crowded even this time of year? If it’s better to book ahead to skip the line, I’ll take care of it. I think there’s a set direction everyone has to follow... I’ll check out the website. I’m planning to get there from Ronda, where I’m thinking of staying a few days—there’s plenty to see in the area. Thanks!
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
hi there,

Good resolution to adapt to the weather and your schedule. I can confirm that Ronda is a great base for exploring this whole area and pretty much all the villages worth seeing if you have a vehicle, of course. For the Caminito del Rey, you can only do it in one direction, from top to bottom (El Chorro station). But either you park at the start, and once you arrive at El Chorro, you take a bus back up to the starting parking lot... or you park at the finish and take the bus up to the start. (You need to book this at the same time as your ticket.) Personally, I recommend the second option because it’s more comfortable to have your car right there at the end... The official website to buy tickets: https://www.caminitodelrey.info/es It’s often busy, and it’s very difficult—if not impossible—to find tickets on-site. It’s best to book early to choose your day, time slot... and you can find self-guided tickets for 10 €. Otherwise, it’s a guided tour for 18 €. A tip: book your visit for the beginning of your trip in case the site closes temporarily due to weather... that way, you can reschedule for the following days. In any case, it’s worth seeing... and seeing again. Just a heads-up: crutches, canes, and walking sticks are not allowed! The restaurant at the start of the Caminito, "El Kiosko," is the only option and decent for the price... If you need restaurant or hotel ideas in Ronda, send me a private message!) bye
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks Philippe for all this info. I took a quick look at the Caminito website—calendar and booking times are there, sure enough. The price you mentioned is 10 €. I’ll take care of that and book it early in our trip. Ronda, which I know from elsewhere, is indeed well located for that and for visiting quite a few villages. Our accommodation isn’t in the center, it’s a few km away, so it’s easy if we want to eat in Ronda (if you have one or two restaurant recommendations, I’d love them—DM me). I also think we can eat where we’re staying, but it’ll be nice to go into Ronda once or twice. After that, I’ll head toward Cádiz after Arcos. Let me know if Cádiz is really worth it—I just passed through quickly a long time ago... After that, maybe Málaga, we’ll see. Thanks again! Best regards,
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Hi Philippe, Hope you're having an amazing time in Andalusia... Just wanted to let you know I couldn't get tickets for the Caminito del Rey, and neither could my daughter and her partner, who are leaving in 3 weeks. The reason? Agencies block at least 70% of the entries, and it's impossible to get individual tickets—you have to book through an agency at a higher price and go as part of a group, which doesn’t interest me. Maybe we’ll show up early one morning at the ticket office and see what happens???

Do you know the El Torcal site, by any chance? I think it’s worth a visit.

Take care, Best regards
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Hi there, Our trip is coming to an end... leaving on April 10th. It’s been a very rainy year. 23 days of rain in March, 330 ml per square meter. Haven’t seen that in 51 years. But the Andalusians are happy. No drought for the summer. When will you be here? Watch out—the coastal road to Ronda is closed for at least 6 months. Other ways to get to Ronda take at least 2h30 instead of 50 minutes. For El Caminito, no availability before May... that’s the issue. Tickets are limited to 700 per day. On the other hand, if you can find a guided tour (18 € instead of 10 €), don’t hesitate. It’s not a problem. Once you’re in, you go at your own pace and don’t worry about the others. I’ve done both options and had no issues. Tell me all about it when you get back...
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks for your message. We’re supposed to be in Ronda on May 6th, but your info about the weather isn’t exactly reassuring—especially with the road that was cut off due to the bad storms? Apparently, this rainy season lasts until September. Of course, for locals, it’s great after years of severe drought, but the torrential rains we’ve been seeing everywhere lately also bring their share of devastation, like we saw last year near Valencia.

You’re making me wonder if I should postpone the trip until September... I’ll think about it, but first, I need to figure out the road situation. Thanks, and safe travels!
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Just to clarify, I’ll be arriving via the A367 road (Cuevas del Becerro) and then heading toward Grazalema. Which road is closed? If it’s been closed this long, was it due to flooding? If you could give me a few more details, thanks!
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Hi Claude! The closed road is the A 397 from San Pedro (Marbella) to Ronda... no worries for you if you're going directly from Malaga to Ronda. In May, you can still get tickets for the Caminito del Rey on the official site—the one I sent you. Probably with a guide, but go for it! For the weather, don’t worry—May is a great month. I’m heading back down on the 13th by motorcycle with a friend... trust me! As for weather surprises, here or anywhere else, no matter the month... it’s always a risk, and part of the memories 😅 I remember Quebec at the end of September 2017 (I think) when we barely saw the Indian summer because it was a drought year and everything was scorched. Bye!
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Thanks! I’ve identified route 397, which goes up from San Pedro to Ronda, but we’re not planning to take it. We’ll be passing near Antequera and Campillos, then taking route 367—I’ve booked 3 nights a little past Ronda. I’ll check the Caminito del Rey website again, and what about El Torcal? Someone strongly recommended it, but since I overlooked it at the start of the trip, our accommodation is now over 100 km away. Is it really worth the detour, or should I try to visit on the way back if there’s time? Thanks
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Yes, El Torcal is worth a look. Be aware, you’ll need to hike—no cars allowed. And of course, under a scorching ☀️ that day! Bye
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Okay, thanks a lot! For the Caminito, it’s impossible. Of course, I’d already tried with the link you sent me—even before that, actually—the page was frozen. You can’t navigate it at all. You have to go through the GetYourGuide site, where there’s a big page with different guided excursion options at various prices. I’d tried with an offer at 14.50 euros, but the only available dates were May 9 and 11 (which doesn’t work for me, and on top of that, only one ticket was available when we’re two of us...). You’d have to book the 30-euro option, which would make it 60 euros for both of us. . Guided tour in Spanish or English. Personally, I’m not interested in a guided tour. We prefer exploring this kind of place independently and at our own pace. As you said, paying for a guided tour and then going off on your own is always possible, sure—but at 18 euros instead of 10, okay, but at 30 euros, it’s a bit steep. Oh well, I can risk trying the ticket office in the morning or maybe during another trip to Málaga/Marbella. I watched a YouTube video of the route—it’s spectacular! As a big mountain lover, it really speaks to me... Best regards,
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Claude The official site is working and there are tickets available for 18 € in May without any issues... You just need to create an account first and then proceed with purchasing the tickets.... Not simple, I admit....
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
For me, it's impossible to use the official site—I end up on a page displaying various info, including ticket purchases, but I can't click on any of it. The screen freezes, so the only solution is to go through the one I mentioned, GetYourGuide. Oh well...
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
On the page that appears, you need to click on "rechazar" (refuse cookies). Then, in the top right corner, click on the three little dots... the language options for English or Spanish will appear, as well as the "register" section. You create your account, and then you can buy the tickets... Normally, that should work. Good luck!
philippe du lot
CL Claude48 Regular ·
Actually, as soon as you land on the site’s page (which you can’t use normally, as I mentioned), you need to right-click, then in the window that pops up, select "create a QR code." It’ll appear on the screen, and you’ll have to scan it—I did it with my phone. After that, you can actually access the site to buy tickets. That’s also where you can accept or refuse cookies.

Phew!!! It’s still pretty unusual. I’ve booked quite a few things in Spain, like the Alhambra in Granada, but this time you really have to guess. Thanks for the info!

I’ll check it out because tickets are scarcer right now. If I’d known the process earlier, I’d have had more options, and now it might complicate our plans a bit.

Booking will only be possible with a guide, but I think we can do without one.

Thanks anyway—we’ll give it a try, and if we have to skip it, I’ll try again next time since we’re planning to come back to Málaga.

Have a great end to your trip
FP Fphilippe Veteran ·
Content for you. It’s a bit special, I admit... Having also done the guided tour with a Caminito guide, I can confirm there’s no pressure to follow them. Plus, I found it really interesting when we were close to her. Her approach was more like that of rangers in American national parks than typical organized tour guides... Don’t hesitate... And of course, have a great trip! You can contact me via PM if you need anything before or during your stay. Bye
philippe du lot

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