Budget to plan for the Three Passes Trek in Nepal
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
DB
Hi there,

I’m heading to Nepal very soon to do the Three Passes Trek, among other things. Could anyone tell me what the average daily budget is for this trek? From what I’ve heard, this area seems more expensive than others.

Thanks in advance for your replies! :)
dbo
DN Dniorthe Veteran ·
Hi, The rates will depend on the "level" of accommodation quality... In Namche, there's a standardized rate. Watch out... If you don't eat at the lodge, the room price changes... Above that, budget 2000 to 3000 rupees per day. Always more expensive when there's little or no choice! Dominique
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Can anyone tell me what the average daily budget is?

Hi,

I assume you’ll be doing the trek independently? I mean without a guide or porter?

Here are the 2016 rates (February/March)—prices have probably changed, so someone can confirm...

Accommodation ranged from free to 2 € (200 rupees), as long as you ate your meals at the lodge where you spent the night. A meal cost around 5 € per person, not including drinks. The price of a beer varied between 3 and 5 € depending on the location. The higher the altitude, the more expensive it gets. You’ll need to buy the TIMS or equivalent for 20 or 30 €, plus the national park entry fee, which was around 2000 rupees if I remember correctly. We had a porter for my wife: 15 € per day. You’ll also need to factor in the round-trip flight to Lukla if you’re not starting from Jiri.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
Prices are skyrocketing in the Khumbu. Right now (peak season), it's 500 NPR per night above Namche (except maybe in the Thame Valley—I haven’t stayed there). Lobuche and Gorakshep are 700 NPR. For food, I tried to keep it to a minimum (tight budget), but man, those Three Passes make you hungry... I was spending at least 2000 NPR a day on food (mostly eggs, noodles, and a few Snickers).

So I’d say budget at least 3000–3500 NPR above Namche. Way more if you want showers, beer, soda, or other Western products. I was there in March and November 2018.

To cut costs, bring Snickers/noodles from KTM.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Prices are skyrocketing in the Khumbu. Right now (peak season), it's 500 NPR per night above Namche (except maybe in the Thame Valley—I haven’t stayed there). Lobuche and Gorakshep are 700 NPR.

Since late 2018 (at least November), minimum threshold rates for a lodge room have been set. So, the 500 NPR (also valid in Dingboche and Chhukhung) and the 700 NPR mentioned. Charged whether there’s 1 or 2 occupants. A sign of an oligopoly, formed under the local Khumbu government’s guidance (according to what a Dingboche hotelier told me), even if it’s under the guise of a hoteliers’ association. From what I read on TripAdvisor, this oligopolistic pricing was renewed for 2019. I’d noticed a similar policy in November 2017 at Machhapuchare Base Camp, with uniform rates extending to menus.

In Thame, on 12/10/18, prices varied by lodge for those still open.

No uniform rate in Namche Bazaar, at least not when I stayed there on 11/28/18.

Since I was trekking solo, I tried to share rooms everywhere beyond Namche Bazaar, but in early December, there weren’t many takers, and I only managed it for 2 nights. Beyond splitting costs, I actually wanted to do it for safety—just in case I had a sudden bout of altitude sickness at night. (But I never had any symptoms during the trek.)

When I asked to pay a per-bed rate (half the room) instead of the full room rate (while expressing my need to share), most hoteliers stayed inflexible, even though their lodges were nearly empty at that time of year. Inflexible for most... but not all. In the end, I always paid the per-bed price, not the full room rate. The room was even comped for me 3 times (Chhukhung, Dzonglha, Gokyo).

In Chhukhung, I shared a room with a young French guy, but the second night (12/03/18), I was the only guest in the lodge. The owner comped my stay, and I got the winter discount (almost 10% off). That evening, she was handing out bonuses to her staff, and the next morning, she left by helicopter with the cash (expensive but secure transport 😉).

In Gokyo, the free room seemed to be part of the lodge’s pricing policy (including free electricity charging). Logically, the 500 NPR room rate should’ve applied...

Note that I was the only guest at the lodges in Phortse, Upper Pangboche, Chhukhung (second night), Dzonglha, Lungden, Thame, and Bengkar. Even in Namche Bazaar, there were only 2 of us.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Hi Deborah,

I did the Three Passes Trek after Pikey Peak and Junbesi - Paiya (just below Lukla), and before Paiya - Tumlingtar. The Three Passes section is significantly more expensive (2 to 2.5 times pricier), and several factors explain this: - transport costs (pack animals, porters, helicopter), - intense commercialization in a very popular area during peak season, - clientele often not price-sensitive or unaware of the cost within an agency package.

From Paiya to Paiya, "my" Three Passes Trek took 17 days, as it included many side trips beyond the direct route. Over those 17 days, I spent 28,780 Rs, or 1,693 Rs/day. However, this doesn’t include my food supplies bought in Kathmandu (110 Rs for 550 g of Nepali muesli, 420 Rs for 600 g of yellow raisins, 890 g for 638 g of nak cheese). Plus 2 bars of chocolate imported from France. These supplies lasted me through my 25-day trek.

Naturally, my 28,780 Rs expenses broke down as follows: - accommodation: 2,250 Rs. - food: 17,150 Rs. - entry fees: 5,000 Rs (2,000 Rs for the Khumbu local tax, 3,000 Rs for Sagarmatha National Park). - EverestLink wifi package: 2,000 Rs for 10 GB (to be used within 30 days). - other: 2,380 Rs (2 hot showers, 4 paid electric charges, 1 laundry).

Paid electric charges cost me between 300 and 500 Rs, but even more in Lobuche and Gorakshep.

I only drank water, disinfected with Piyush bought in Kathmandu (25 Rs for 60 ml).

My food expenses deserve a special mention, as they really depend on your consumption habits.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
I'm really interested in that part about your food expenses. I felt like I wasn't eating anything, yet I still ended up with bills around 3000 NPR, even though—as I mentioned—I was living on instant noodles 😵 (in my defense, I'd been trekking for 8 months and was starting to really suffer from long-term food deprivation, but still...)

I'd love to know how many calories you managed to pack away near Gokyo, Lobuche, and Chukhung for so little money—it'll help me plan for my next visit to the Khumbu... 😵
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
As mentioned above, my food expenses amounted to 17,150 Rs for 17 days, which is 1,009 Rs per day. But the daily average doesn’t mean much because prices vary a lot depending on how far you are from the road delivery point (Adheri in 2018, downstream from Jubing, but this might be replaced in 2020 by Kharikhola when the road via Taksindu/Nunthala becomes operational).

For example, here’s how the price of daal bhat I ate changed (from 11/29/18 to 12/12/18): - 450 Rs in Khumjung (without vegetable curry). - 500 Rs in Upper Pangboche (without vegetable curry). - 530 Rs in Chhukhung (in the porters' canteen). - 550 Rs in Chhukung (-55 Rs = 495 Rs, 10% winter discount). - 850 Rs in Gorak Shep (-150 Rs = 700 Rs, negotiated discount when booking the room). - 600 Rs in Dzonglha (reasonable price since the night was free). - 500 Rs in Gokyo (reasonable price since the night and phone charging were free). - 550 Rs in Thame. - 400 Rs in Namche (without daal but with curry, low price for Namche because it was in one of the porters' canteens). - 450 Rs in Bengkar (reasonable since the night was free). - 350 Rs in Paiya (cheap since the night was free).

Note that the very first lodge in Junbesi (when coming from Jiri) charges 700 Rs for its daal bhat while also charging for the room. Now that the road reaches the foot of Junbesi, just on the opposite bank of the Junbesi Khola, it takes advantage of trekkers’ ignorance. The same goes for Ringmo, where I paid 400 Rs. It’s also the case in Namche Bazar, where hotel owners take advantage of trekkers who’ve just arrived from Lukla. Many daal bhat there are priced at 700 Rs or more... In the porters' canteen (at the entrance of Namche), the daal bhat was around 450 Rs, I think, but I skipped the daal because it took longer to prepare.

For comparison, in roadside restaurants (obviously not on the trek), daal bhat is usually offered for 150 Rs.

Next up, what I ate—I survived on just walking and daal bhat. 😄

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
As I do everywhere I travel, I follow the British adage: "When in Rome, do as the Romans do" (a phrase actually originating from Saint Augustine).

During my treks in Nepal, I eat exclusively Nepali food—meaning daal bhat, veg chowmein, veg fried rice, thukpa, fried potatoes, momos, various broths (including thantuk and Sherpa Stew), and rigi kur (a Sherpa specialty)...

Not a single Western dish, and no drinks other than water (disinfected with Piyush).

For breakfast, I always had thukpa (a hot, slow-digesting liquid with some vegetables) or Rara noodle soup as a backup. Another advantage is that it’s quick to prepare, allowing me to set off shortly after sunrise. The breakfast options on offer tend to have a poor quality-to-price ratio, as I’d already noticed in the Annapurna region in November 2017.

For lunch, I usually had daal bhat. It’s all about the prep time. Unlike on the Annapurna Circuit (November 2017), I never found daal bhat ready to serve, except in Ringmo (served in 5 minutes). Every time, I happily went for seconds—or even thirds.

For dinner, I’d choose between veg chowmein, veg fried rice, or momos.

I never ate meat because the transport and storage conditions made me wary of its safety. The one exception was in Lungden, where I took the risk of joining the yak momo party at the family-run lodge—I was their only guest.

Every meal was rounded off with a serving of raisins (for a sweet finish) and sometimes a square of chocolate.

On days without teahouses along the route (like when crossing a pass), I relied on my Kathmandu supplies: Nepali muesli and nak cheese.

The Thame region is a major potato producer, so that’s where I ate them—fried and served generously.

In Lobuche and Gorakshep, prices do skyrocket, so I cut back a bit. In Lobuche, I settled for mushroom soup (450 Rs) in the evening because I thought the menu prices were really over the top. Luckily, I’d had daal bhat for breakfast in Chhukhung, anticipating a long day. In Gorakshep, I negotiated the room rates when booking, making them more reasonable (though I’m still aware of the supply costs).

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I'd love to know how many calories you could pack away around Gokyo, Lobuche, and Chukkung for such little spending—it’ll help for my next visit to the Khumbu... 🤪

I have absolutely no idea, because in my life I’ve never counted calories, and I don’t even know the calorie content of foods.

I came back lighter than when I left—probably 6-7 kg less compared to my usual weight of 73 kg—but that’s the case on all my trips, usually without any trekking at all.

Except for exceptions (e.g., trekking in Nepal), I travel in high temperatures (e.g., India and Southeast Asia in spring, Iran, the Chinese Silk Road in summer), which is why I drink a lot, reducing my appetite. Plus, I tend to walk a lot (city sightseeing), while I don’t do any sports the rest of the year. Enough to shed some unnecessary kg.

Still, both in 2017 (28 days of trekking) and 2018 (25 days of trekking), I came back with my ribs showing, which isn’t the case on my other trips. Since I always ate my fill without restrictions (except at Lobuche, as a matter of principle), this must be a particular effect of long-distance trekking.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
Interesting, thanks! Lots of Dhaal Bhat, huh? 🙂 I definitely overdid it in the first four months—ate so much I got completely sick of it. Still, it seems way too low in calories for days of hiking at 5000m!

Yeah, below Namche it’s relatively easy to stick to a tight budget while still stuffing your face. For me, the problems started above that. My mistake was not bringing anything from Kathmandu—such a beginner’s error . Bounty bars at 400 NPR when I could’ve gotten them for 70 NPR in KTM or even Jiri. Next time, I’ll also bring a small stove and gas to heat up my own raras—those cost several hundred rupees above 4000m... (Raw raras are like DB, I overdid them the first few weeks, and now I can’t stomach them anymore. They’re not bad, though!)

The big advantage of DB is definitely the unlimited refills. Maybe we’ll have made up by then. 🙂
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
The big advantage of the DB is indeed being able to get seconds as much as you want. Maybe we’ll have made up by then. 🙂

As a kid, I really didn’t like rice. We made up during my travels in Asia. Still, I’m not a fan of plain rice. In Nepal, I generously add their tomato sauce that’s left on the table. I like the mix, even if I could do without the added sugar to make it taste like ketchup.

Some days in France, I’d love to eat a good daal bhat. Because it really depends on the cook (more often men than women, even in homestays).

So far, the best daal bhat I’ve had was in Chyawabesi. Especially because the curry was eggplant-based. I went overboard: 3 times, 4 times? 🙂 The owner was happy, and I went to compliment his wife in the kitchen.

The Bountys at 400 NPR when I could’ve gotten them for 70 in KTM or even in Jiri.

In Kathmandu, you can already save money by shopping outside Thamel. In 2017, I stumbled upon a small shop where guides and porters stock up. It’s just at the start of Talachhi Marg, just south of Amrit Marg, so a few steps from Thamel. On the left side when coming from Amrit Marg, heading south. According to Google Maps, it seems to match DDC PRODUCTS, at 27°42'35.6"N 85°18'44.0"E.

For example, 500 g of Nepali muesli for 110 NPR vs 140 NPR in a Thamel minimarket. Similar price differences for other products.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hey,

I knew the cost of living had gone up in the Khumbu, just like it probably has elsewhere in Nepal, but still—not *this* much! Doing a trek in the Khumbu is about to become as expensive as hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DB Dbora74 ·
Hi,

Thanks to everyone for your replies. This really helps me see things more clearly 🙂 And I’ll probably do as you suggest and bring some snacks along 😉 I was also thinking, like Fabrice mentioned, to eat pretty much only DB so I can be sure to eat my fill without breaking the bank 😛
dbo
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I knew the cost of living had gone up in the Khumbu, just like it probably has elsewhere in Nepal, but still—not *that* much!

Because it’s so remote from any road, the Khumbu is understandably pricier than other popular treks in Nepal.

But the difference is smaller than I expected. For comparison, my Annapurna Circuit (19 days from Dharapani, including the descent from Jomsom, then Khopra Danda, ABC, and Mardi Himal BC) cost me around 1,200 Rs per day (excluding access permits since I’d already paid for the Manaslu Circuit). Same spending habits for my Three Passes Trek.

So the Khumbu is about 30% more expensive than the Annapurna region. But for food alone, my spending was very similar—just under 1,100 Rs per day.

The big price hike since late 2018 has been the minimum set prices for lodge stays. That’s what makes the difference compared to the Annapurna region.

Trekking in the Khumbu is about to get as expensive as doing the Tour du Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn Circuit!

For the Matterhorn Circuit, there’s still a noticeable gap. A simple Valaisanne salad costs around 15 CHF in a village restaurant—even more in a mountain hut.

What seems most expensive in the Khumbu is the flight to Lukla. If you take a land route (e.g., Salleri/Phaplu), it’s *way* cheaper, even with the extra trekking days.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I was also considering, like Fabrice said, eating almost exclusively DB to make sure I had enough to eat without breaking the bank

Daal bhat was definitely my go-to for lunch, but I ate other dishes for breakfasts (except before crossing a pass) and dinners. So no exclusivity for daal bhat.

To keep expenses under control, avoid drinks—especially alcohol. I also saved a lot by skipping classic breakfasts. Plus, I didn’t buy any desserts, opting for my dried raisins instead.

In my food supplies list, I forgot to mention a bag of soft dried apricots (300 or 500 g?) I brought from France (no equivalent in Nepal, not even dried apricots). A treat every night for dinner. I ate the very last apricot the evening I arrived in Chyawabesi, after 25 days of trekking. Last square of chocolate the next morning.

Another perk of dipping into my food supplies was that it lightened my backpack. 😎

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
The Khumbu is about 30% more expensive than the Annapurna region.

Hi everyone,

I can confirm that. My husband just finished the big Three Passes loop (from Jiri to Jiri, so no flight). Lodge prices have gone up again. (He was there 2 years ago, and we were there together almost 4 years ago.) Porter services cost him 20 €.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
As I mentioned earlier, it's the accommodation that accounts for the cost difference.

When it comes to food alone, prices in the Khumbu are in line with those in the Annapurnas. Despite the increased remoteness from a road (see delivery logistics). Likely due to the economies of scale from trekkers being concentrated on the same route.

Downside: a really unpleasant density of pack-animal caravans. Especially downstream, between Jubing and Phakding. The worst is around Kharikhola, where mule caravans have turned the trail into an open-air dump. Particularly nauseating in the sun.

The almost constant drone of planes and helicopters becomes secondary in this particular area.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
eating my fill without breaking the bank

I forgot to mention a money-saving strategy I already used back in 2017 around the Annapurnas: choosing the lodge based on the total cost (including meals and services), not just the nightly rate, the dining room’s vibe, or even the hostess’s smile...

On stages where the nightly rate is the same no matter the lodge, you just need to compare the menus.

Easy when you're solo, but impossible with 4 or more people unless you standardize your choices every day.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
DB Dbora74 ·
Hi Fabrice, Thanks for sharing your experiences 😊. Another question just popped into my mind—do you think a rain cover is essential? Even if we have Gore-Tex gear?
dbo
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Since December is the driest month in the Khumbu, I decided not to bother with my rain poncho. My Gore-Tex jacket was enough during the hail (though I had to stop at the first teashop I came across after a nasty fall on the trail caused by slipping on a small rock).

For early November, I probably would’ve taken my rain poncho, just to be safe.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
DB Dbora74 ·
Hi Fabrice, I think I’m gonna get myself a rain cape, haha 😄. Another question just popped into my head—are there regular water points along the way to refill my water bottle? Or should I start the day with 2L of water in my pack?
dbo
JU Julien92Sui Veteran ·
I've done the Three Passes trek twice. In autumn 2014, I never had to pay for the room—just for meals (when I asked, they’d just say "okay." You couldn’t even call it a negotiation). In spring 2017, we had to pay half, but never more than 200 rupees... Those room rates make a big difference in the budget!
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/. Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.

Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
JU Julien92Sui Veteran ·
You can find water easily, but you’ll need to treat it.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/. Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.

Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
DB Dbora74 ·
Hi Julien, That’s great news because my filtering water bottle only holds 750ml. I’ll still take a small extra bottle, but at least I won’t need to start each day with 2 liters of water in my pack. 😊
dbo
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
It's the Himalayas—water isn't something you'll lack (for now, anyway!) 😉
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Generally, water is indeed quite accessible in the Khumbu region. Below Namche, there are many villages or hamlets, all at least equipped with a fountain (some dried up since the 2015 earthquake, but a new supply system was installed with a simple plastic pipe). However, above Namche Bazaar, there are far fewer villages, even though teashops are frequent along the EBC trail.

Off the EBC trail, there are a few exceptions.

For example, I don’t recall crossing any streams between Chhukhung and the Khumbu Glacier via the Kongma La. There are lakes, but that’s not my preferred water source.

Similarly, I don’t remember any streams between Pangboche and the Ama Dablam base camp. Or between Tabuche Kharka (off the beaten path) and the Khumbu Khola before Pheriche.

Additionally, at high altitudes, streams can be frozen, for example, above Gokyo toward the upper lakes. Even at my lodge in Gokyo, water supply wasn’t straightforward because all the pipes were frozen during the two days I was there. Same for Gokyo Lake. It’s tricky, especially for toilets.

Gorakshep is known for its lack of water sources, and indeed, I saw an employee breaking up a block of ice and bringing it back to his lodge.

Throughout my trek in the region, every morning, I set off with 2 x 1L bottles and a ½L bottle (easier to refill with a trickle of hard-to-reach water). I’d also hydrate well at breakfast (VG thukpa = noodle soup with vegetables).

gourde filtrante ne fait que 750ml

In my opinion, this doesn’t eliminate the need for water purification. Typically, tablets or drops (like Piyush) are recommended for 1L quantities.

Fabrice

P.S.: My 3 plastic bottles (2 x 1L + ½L) came from Paris and returned to Paris 😉
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
DB Dbora74 ·
Thanks for your replies. Just FYI, I already tried the filtering water bottle on the Annapurna Circuit two years ago and had no issues at all 😊. But I’ll still bring a few purification tablets just in case.
dbo
CH Chlochlos ·
Hi there,

I’m sorry, but I don’t think I fully understand this threshold rate for the room. Could you recommend a webpage where I can find this info?

- Basically, does this mean we have to pay for the room (for 2 people) each time—either 500 or 700 Rs—and then add the cost of meals on top?

- Does this mean there’s no way to negotiate anymore?

Also, is it possible to cook our own food in the lodges (with our own stove)?
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
It's the Himalayas—water isn't exactly scarce (for now!)

😏
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Does this basically mean we have to pay for the room (for 2 people) each time, either 500 or 700 Rs, and then add the meal costs?

Yes, that’s exactly it. And menu prices haven’t been lowered at all.

What’s more, if you’re a solo trekker like I was, you’re charged the full room price, which adds a hefty extra cost.

I was ready—and even eager—to share a room, but at the end of the season, there weren’t many takers. Don’t count on the hotel owner to play matchmaker; you’ll have to find a roommate yourself, which I managed for my first night in Chhukhung and the one in Lobuche. Only two nights, though.

Does this mean there’s no way to negotiate anymore?

At the end of the season, early December 2018, I *did* manage to negotiate a few times, usually by being *very* persistent. I wasn’t asking for freebies—just to pay for one bed, agreeing to share the room if needed. But most lodge owners flat-out refused.

Here’s what you should know about peak season: - There are checkpoints set up at strategic spots controlling access to higher areas (e.g., Shomare for Pheriche and Dingboche), where young staff enforce the room fee for every trekker in exchange for an official voucher from the Khumbu lodge owners’ association. - In the evenings, the same staff come around to check that every guest has a voucher. If not, they collect the room fee on the spot. The atmosphere got pretty heated, and apparently, things escalated in October/November 2018.

When this practice was reported on TripAdvisor in early November 2018, most experienced forum users assumed it was a new scam targeting novice trekkers... implying they’d never fall for it. But a young Sherpa lodge owner in Dingboche confirmed that the local government had initiated this system, and there were inter-professional meetings to evaluate and adjust it.

I’d noticed a similar price-fixing agreement at Machhapuchare Base Camp in late November 2017, maybe even in the previous hamlet. In 2017, the local government tried to extend this agreement to all accommodations on the ABC trek but had to backtrack after protests from trekking agencies worried about losing customers. But in the Khumbu, overcrowding is so bad that lodge owners aren’t afraid of losing business.

Of the money collected, half goes to the lodges where guests stay (identified during the evening voucher checks), and the other half is kept centrally—partly to fund the collection and control system.

In early December 2018, I didn’t see those staff operating, probably because there weren’t enough trekkers left to justify keeping the system in place.

Also, after Namche Bazar, I always avoided the classic EBC trail: - Stayed in Phortse before sleeping in Upper Pangboche. - Walked to Tabuche Kharka, then continued to Pheriche/Dingboche—so I didn’t pass through Shomare. - Then carried on via the Three Passes. That was my plan to escape the overcrowding on the EBC trek.

By the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove)?

Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price skyrockets—like 2000 Rs or more. I’ve seen it explicitly stated on menus.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
CH Chlochlos ·
Thanks so much for this detailed answer!

And by the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove?)

Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price is heavily increased. Like 2000 Rs and up. I’ve seen it explicitly mentioned on menus.

Fabrice

So, I was thinking that this threshold price might still be good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the whole trek! Like paying 500 Rs but "saving" on meal costs... My daydream only lasted 5 minutes!
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the entire trek!

As of now, fully independent trekking is still possible in the Khumbu region, and no guide is mandatory (except in the Bothe Kosi Valley toward Nangpa La, as it’s a restricted-access zone upstream from Lungden).

However, some Nepalis are envious of Bhutan’s policy requiring tourists to spend a minimum of $100/day. Such a premium-niche strategy is unrealistic for Nepal as a whole, since it caters to mass tourism (even if not on the same scale as beach tourism in some countries). The increase in daily spending per tourist wouldn’t offset the sharp drop in visitor numbers.

That said, a premium strategy *could* work in limited, easily controlled geographic zones. In a way, this is already the case for Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo (with a $50/day permit). I’ve met several Sherpas who want a Bhutan-style policy for the Khumbu. Since the 2017 decentralization law, the local Khumbu government might have the authority to implement it—just as they already collect the local 2,000 Rs tax that replaced the TIMS.

Plus, it would help manage overcrowding at peak season.

Fabrice

P.S.: Between Thame and Namche Bazar, I saw an ad for wealth management and tax optimization consulting. Makes sense—the Khumbu has the highest per capita income in all of Nepal.
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
This is absolutely not the Nepalese government's goal—they're planning for 500,000 visitors a year in the Khumbu, 10 times more than today, mainly thanks to the new road to Lukla, which will bring lots of Nepalese and Indian tourists by 4x4 and motorbike.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
In the context of a newly federal state, this will be an interesting debate to follow between the local level and central authority.

500,000 visitors a year is going to "slightly" clog the trail to Namche Bazaar. Enough to revive the direct cable car project.

Not very comforting for mountain lovers who used to wander peacefully there... off-season.

Beyond Namche Bazaar, the price of overnight stays will still filter out a good portion of Indians and Nepalis. Unless they introduce a SAARC tariff.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Some trekkers post the menus from the lodges where they stayed.

For example, check out the prices charged in Nov 2018 on the Gokyo trek at https://thewanderingspot.com/gokyo-menus/.

It also gives you an idea of the variety of dishes on offer.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
NI Nicolasomb ·
If it might interest you, there’s a ton of info on the Three Passes Trek on this blog: https://backpackerdudimanche.com/trek-3-cols-three-passes-trek-nepal/
___ Backpacker du Dimanche

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