Mon mari et moi prévoyons de faire un voyage self drive en Namibie et Botswana en août 2012. J'ai lu presque tous les messages du forum et je me suis inspirée (pour ne pas dire j'ai copié😉) de vos super conseils aux autres voyageurs. Mais cela fait maintenant quelques mois que je suis sur ce projet et j'ai la tête comme un tambour. Pourriez-vous m'aider et me dire ce que vous pensez de cet itinéraire?
Jeudi 2 août: arrivée à Windhoek (vérifier le 4x4, faire les courses...), dormir là
Vendredi 3: direction Sesriem
Samedi 4 et dimanche 5: Sossusvlei, dormir le 5 au camp NWR de Naukluft
Lundi 6: Olive Trail et autres petites randos
Mardi 7: direction Walvis Bay
Mercredi 8: excursion avec Mola Mola à Sandwich Harbour
Jeudi 9: route de Moonvalley-Welwitschia, nuit à Spitzkoppe (1er problème, apparemment cette adresse www.nacobta.com.na prise sur le forum ne fonctionne pas/plus)
Vendredi 10: excursion au Bushmen Paradise puis direction le Brandberd
Samedi 11: peintures rupestres du Brandberg puis direction Twyfelfontein
Dimanche 12: visite des environs puis direction et nuit à Outjo
Du lundi 13 au mercredi 15: Etosha
Jeudi 16: route vers Divundu (j'ai vu que SamuelMarlin l'a fait l'année dernière)
Vendredi 17: réserve de Mahango et direction Kongola
Samedi 18: direction Kasane
Dimanche 19: chutes Victoria
D'après vous, faut-il que nous réservions cette excursion ou c'est faisable une fois sur place?
Lundi 20: Kasane-Ihaha
Mardi 21: Ihaha-Linyanti
Mercredi 22: Linyanti-Savuti
Jeudi 23: Savuti-Khwai
Vendredi 24 et samedi 25: Khwai-Xakanaxa
Dimanche 26: Xakanaxa-Third Bridge
Évidemment, tout ça c'est si j'arrive à réserver les campsites😕
Lundi 27: direction Maun
Mardi 28: Maun (avion, repos...)
Mercredi 29: direction et nuit à Windhoek!!!
Jeudi 30 et vendredi 31: Okonjima
Et voilà la théorie! Qu'en pensez-vous? J'ai plein de questions plus précises mais un coup de main sur cet itinéraire m'aiderait déjà beaucoup.
Merci.
Sandrine
nuit à Spitzkoppe (1er problème, apparemment cette adresse www.nacobta.com.na prise sur le forum ne fonctionne pas/plus)
La réponse vient dêtre donnée par vinny ici:
http://voyageforum.com/...ost=4397641;#4397641
- Bushman paradise : as-tu lu cette discussion ?
- Etosha : tu logeras à l'intérieur du parc ? Ne tarde pas à réserver afin d'avoir les camps souhaités ( pour moi c'est Okakuejo le plus intéressant grâce à son merveilleux trou d'eau) et le type d'hébergement.
jeudi 16: route vers Divundu (j'ai vu que SamuelMarlin l'a fait l'année dernière)
D'accord mais en ne partant pas trop tard ! Sinon tu as qlq lodges aux environs de Rundu , nous avions logé au N'Kwazi (TTB) lors de notre 1er Voyage.
Dimanche 19: chutes Victoria
D'après vous, faut-il que nous réservions cette excursion ou c'est faisable une fois sur place?
Tu peux réserver sur place mais avec le risque de n'avoir plus de place...
Nous, nous l'avions fait une quinzaine de J avant notre départ et avions confirmé et réglé une fois sur place au Chobe Safari L.; la plupart des lodges proposent cette excursion.
Botswana :Évidemment, tout ça c'est si j'arrive à réserver les campsites
Je pense qu'il n'est pas trop tôt en juillet 2011 pour réserver pour août 2012 ! 😉
As-tu lu les discussions où Pierre 77N donne les références pour les résas ?
Je ne peux rien te dire de plus car je suis passée par un organisme pour faire Moremi.
Mardi 28: Maun (avion, repos...) Mercredi 29: direction et nuit à Windhoek!!!
Ce sera une étape super longue !
L'an dernier nous avion mis 7h pour faire Maun- Gobabis et 3h le lendemain pour Gobabis -Windhoek(puis nous continuions jsq au Gamsberg).
La route est asphaltée et bonne dans sa totalité mais assez monotone.
Attention aux radars (nous en avons vu un près de Gobabis - entre-autres !)
J'ai plein de questions plus précises mais un coup de main sur cet itinéraire m'aiderait déjà beaucoup.
De bien belle découvertes en perspective ! Je n'ai pas fait le Nord de la Namibie, et le Botswana c'était il y a bien longtemps. Je ne ferai donc pas de commentaires sur cette partie de ton projet, hormis le trajet Maun-Windhoek qui est très long. Il vaudrait mieux faire un stop à Ghanzi ou ses environs, au tout au Moins à Gobabis, mais attention aux horaires de fermeture du poste frontière. A moins que "avion" à Maun veut dire que le trajet jusqu'à Windhoek soit en avion.
Comme tu parles de réserver les camp-sites, je suppose que c'est un périple plutôt camping que lodge.
Pour le reste, voici mes remarques :
J2 , dormir à Windhoek : en arrivant le matin, il sera plus sympathique de dormir à mi-route de Sessriem, soit à Mariental (acessible par la B1 -que du goudron-) au Hardap resort par exemple, ou vers Rehoboth (Oanob resort), c'est moins loin. Si tu arrives le jeudi, ce n'est pas par Air Namibia (pas de départ le Mercredi de Frankort). Windhoek-Sessriem, c'est 5h de route, hors pauses.
Puis, jusqu'au jour 15, pas remarques (tu as bien "copié😉" ). Ah non, J12, nuit à Outjo. Pas terrible, à mois de chercher dans les environs (Mamselle Nature Camp, Sophienhof..), pourquoi pas te rapprocher d'Etosha et profiter d'une réserve privée située au sud d'Etosha ?
Jour 16 : alors là, attention : 630km, 6h30 de route sans arrêts, en supposant que tu pars de Namutoni. Ça tranche avec les étapes de 200km. Il y a de quoi faire une étape (Mururani Camp, Mangetti NP). Ou bien quitter le parc au aurores, mais ça perd de son intérêt (pas de game drive au premières heures).
Pour le reste, comme dit plus haut, je ne connais pas.
L'an dernier nous avion mis 7h pour faire Maun- Gobabis et 3h le lendemain pour Gobabis -Windhoek
A l'époque où ce n'était pas encore asphalté nous avions mis 3 jours (bon d'accord, c'était en auto-stop😉) : Maun-Ghanzi, puis Ghanzi-Frontière, et enfin Frontière-Windhoek. On a au moins eu le temps d'admirer le paysage en attendant les voitures, et même en roulant : pour le premier tronçon ce sont des rangers qui nous ont chargés à l'arrière de leur pick-up, et j'ai découvert la signification de l'expression "rouler à tombeau ouvert" 🙁
Je vois que je ne suis pas le seul à butter sur les grosses-grosses étapes.
c'est pas mal comme itinéraire.
J'oublierai quand même Okonjima à la fin pour inclure ces 2 jours dans le parcours.
Comme le souligne Michelle le Maun Windhoek est quasi infaisable et c'est aussi dommage de ne pas profiter des bushman à Ganzhi. C'est aussi ça le Botswana.
Je rajouterai également un jour dans la bande de Caprivi
Nuit à Outjo ? pour quoi faire ?
soit tu fais une journée de plus dans le damaraland, soit tu vas direct à Etosha
le premier jour tu peux envisger la nuit dans le Kalahari si tu arrives tôt plutôt que Windhoek
Pour les chutes Victoria tu trouveras facilement sur place mais puisque tu vas réserver une nuit à Kasane vaut autant prendre l'excursion en même temps
pour la partie Botswana sauvage, le parcours est bon mais c'est coton. J'espère que vous en avez conscience et que vous avez une petite expérience de conduite de 4x4 en milieu difficile
Je suis avec intérêt votre fil, nous avons la même destination, à peu près aux mêmes dates mais avec une semaine de moins 😉
Mais je ne suis pas encore aussi loin que vous, j'en suis toujours à hésiter entre une expédition dans le Kaokoland et le Botswana (principalement Chobe)😮
Le plus dur sera d'avoir les dispos des camps de Ihaha à 3rd bridge : ne traine pas à reserver dès septembre.
La fin de ton périple va être fatigante mais certainement très riche en émotions (Les 7 jours dans les réserves de Chobe/Moremi peuvent amener plein de belles rencontres animalières...et de près...
Je ne sais pas si cela vaut le coup de faire un stop pour un jour dans Mahango. Tu peux peut être sauvegarder cette journée et faire Etosha-->Kasane en 2 jours et une nuit avec étape à Divundu/bagani.
Pour la résa de l'excursion Kasane-->chutes Victoria, il y a beaucoup de T.O locaux (affiliés ou non aux hôtels) qui le proposent. Cependant, tu ne vas pas arriver de bonne heure à Kasane pour t'inscrire. Si tu es à l'aise en anglais, je te conseillerai de glaner sur le net quelques numéros de téléphone de ces T.O et de les appeler sur la route quelques jours avant pour reserver. (Emmène un vieux telephone portable désimbloqué et achete des puces prépayées en Namibie, c'est pas cher et ca peut être utile)
Maun-->Windhoek en 1 jour...cela me parait très ambitieux...on n'a pas la capacité de roulage des Sud Africains, surtout que vous serez quand même assez éprouvés du rythme des semaines précédentes.
D'abord, merci de vos commentaires parce que même si j'ai copié ce que vous avez déjà vécu comme je l'ai dit avant, quand on bosse des semaines sur un projet, tout devient flou!
Merci Michelle et Ericarole, j'ai regardé ce que vous m'avez envoyé pour Spitzkoppe.
Pour l'Olive Trail, Michelle, j'avais déjà lu la discussion que tu m'as envoyée et j'espère qu'il n'y aura pas de problèmes; on a l'habitude des randos dans les Pyrénées.
Cette semaine, je vais essayer de commencer à réserver MAIS pour ce qui est géré par le NWR (Sesriem, Etosha) comment on fait, puisque leur page web n'accepte les réservations que jusqu'à décembre 2011? Quand ouvrent-ils les réservations pour 2012?
Loïc, tu me dis que pour la journée où j'avais prévu de dormir à Outjo dans un backpacker, ça serait mieux de m'arrêter dans une réserve privée MAIS elles sont à quel prix et lesquelles me conseillerais-tu?
Vinny, pourquoi tu dis que je pourrais oublier OKonjima; tu as eu un mauvais retour sur cette réserve? J'y ai pensé au cas où on ne verrait pas suffisamment de beaux chats ... et aussi pour dormir à la fin du périple dans un vrai lit 🙂(tout le reste se ferait en camping dans le 4x4 sauf dans les backpackers de Windhoek et Walvis Bay)
Et vous avez raison sur la journée de Maun-Windhoek; c'est un peu ... infaisable😕 mais ça paraissait si bien sur le papier.
Ah, j'ai d'autres doutes:
- pour la réservation du 4x4, il faut "exiger" qu'ils nous disent le kilométrage du véhicule dans un mél? Et pour tous les suppléments dont vous parlez dans beaucoup de discussions (sangles d'ensablement, bidons d'essence...), c'est pareil? On doit leur demander la liste détaillée avant ou à l'arrivée?
- pour la réservation des campsites au Botswana, qu'est-ce qui est mieux; leur envoyer un mél et attendre ou leur téléphoner? Et pour le paiement, on verse un acompte, la quantité totale, quel est le mode de paiement? Désolée, je l'ai lu quelque part mais je ne sais plus où !😊
Ah, et pour les 7 jours à Chobe, Savuti... combien de litres d'eau et d'essence vous pensez qu'on doit prendre?
Bon, j'arrête de vous assommer... pour aujourd'hui.
Merci encore à tous.
Sandrine
Vinny, pourquoi tu dis que je pourrais oublier OKonjima; tu as eu un mauvais retour sur cette réserve? J'y ai pensé au cas où on ne verrait pas suffisamment de beaux chats ... et aussi pour dormir à la fin du périple dans un vrai lit 🙂(tout le reste se ferait en camping dans le 4x4 sauf dans les backpackers de Windhoek et Walvis Bay)
salut Sandrine,
non non pas de retour négatif, bien au contraire. c'est une de mes réserves préférées. Okonjima c'est vraiment top.
Je dis simplement que ce n'est pas très logique de l'intégrer à la fin de ton périple surtout que tu as besoin de ces 2 jours pour le reste.
De plus , Okonjima avec les activités c'est la nuit à 500 € et faire Okonjima sans les activités ça n'a aucun sens
pour NWR si c'est en camping tu es tranquille pendant un bon moment pour faire tes résas. Tu peux les faire tranquille en fin d'année.
Pour les voitures comment veux tu qu'ils te disent le kilométrage du véhicule que tu vas louer dans 1 an ?
même à court terme ils ne peuvent le dire.
Par contre certaines compagnies garantissent de louer des véhicules de moins de 3 ans.
Mais pour ce genre de périple avec les conditions difficiles des réserves au Botswana ( hein je l'ai déjà dit ?.. on ne le dit jamais assez) je ne me poserais pas de questions et louerais direct chez Asco un véhicule adapté.
- La discussion concernant Bushman paradise , cétait pour l'explication du parcours donnée par mlefevre.
- Pour une alternative au backp. d'Outjo regarde ici ->Western Etosha Lodges et alternatives ou ceci ou encore sur ce site où en plus tu trouveras plusieurs types d'hébergements dont des campings .
Pour les résas de camps au Botswana :
Je pense qu'il n'est pas trop tôt en juillet 2011 pour réserver pour août 2012 !
As-tu lu les discussions où Pierre 77N donne les références pour les résas ? ?
😇
Les deux adresses que je t’ai données sont à 50 N$/p pour Mamselle Nature Camp, et 120 N$/p pour le Sophienhof lodge (prix pour le campsite).
Toujours près de Outjo il y a aussi le Bushveld Park Lodge qui offre deux emplacements de camping. Comme indiqué par Michèle, il y a aussi Etotongwe.
Près d’Etosha, il y a le Eldorado B&B qui propose des emplacements de camping ainsi que le Etosha safari camp. Ils sont très proches l’un de l’autre.
Ce ne sont ici que les option camping, mais si tu vérifies la liste des hébegeurs de Tourmaline, il y a sans doute aussi des options en 'dur' qui pourraient être abordables.
En tapant Eldorado b&b namibia sur google (bing) voici la 1ère adresse répertoriée:
Rifle / Bow Hunting Safaris Namibia, Etosha
Traduire cette page
| Eldorado B& B and Camping | Eldorado B & B and Camping is a family-operated business which ... like, the Etosha Wildlife park, Koakoveld and Damaraland in the north of Namibia.
.htm http://a3hunting.com/links.htm
😮 🤪 😠
sur ce site on tombe directo sur le lien Eldorado b&b ... (ainsi que sur Etotongwe...)
Par contre sur http://www.campsa.co.za/eldorado voici l'adresse website:www.etosha-camping.com ...
C'est une appellation qui peut prêter à confusion car cela n'a rien à voir avec l'Etosha safari camp ou etosha safari camping !
Ce n'est pas la 1ère fois que je tombe sur une accomodation de ce genre.😠
Tu te souviens peut-être que à l'aéroport de Windhoek lorsqu'on passe à l'immigration on aperçoit le bureau pour les "chasseurs-killers" ? 😠
Il faut de tout pour faire un monde ! 🤪 😠
Je n'ai effectivement pas googlisé toutes les indications que j'ai trouvées sur la carte T4A. Ceci explique peut-être cela 😉.
Oui, il y a bien des lodges qui accueillent spécifiquement les chasseurs, et comme tu le dis, il faut de tout pour faire un monde. Je ne me rappelle pas de l'aéroport de Windhoek, mais j'en ai trouvé quelques-uns pendant ma préparation.
J'ai regardé de plus près la carte et je crois que je vais inclure Okonjima dans mon programme avant Etosha. Comme ça, on en profitera pleinement et on fera moins de détours que s'il était à la fin du programme.
Pour les voitures comment veux tu qu'ils te disent le kilométrage du véhicule que tu vas louer dans 1 an ?
même à court terme ils ne peuvent le dire.
Gloups!!! 😊 J'étais morte de rire toute seule chez moi en relisant ma question!!!
Je pense qu'il n'est pas trop tôt en juillet 2011 pour réserver pour août 2012 !
As-tu lu les discussions où Pierre 77N donne les références pour les résas ? ?
😇
Oui, j'ai lu ce que Pierre77N a mis; il faut envoyer un mél de réservation pour chaque camping (ou presque), attendre, insister et si on n'a pas de réponse claire, téléphoner et croiser les doigts😛
- Pour les résas, le plus tôt est le mieux et le fax marche parfois mieux que les emails.
- Pour payer, ce sera la visa. Je te conseille de contracter une e-carte bleue avec ta banque si elle le propose. Généralement tu payes par avance les campsites. Pour les entrées des parcs, tu peux le faire sur place à des points de la DWNP (y en a un à Kasane, tu peux payer Chobe Linyanti, Savuti et Moremi en même temps)
- Pour le kilométrage des VL, impossible à savoir à l'avance, sauf que dans tes mails de contact, insiste aupres des loueurs pour avoir un vl récent, tu verras leurs réponses. Egalement, insiste beaucoup sur l'état des pneus. A ne pas négliger outre l'équipement de camping : l'état du compresseur pour le pneus (indispensable) et une longue sangle de traction (10 mètres).
- Pour les 7 jours Chobe -->Moremi, un plein de 4x4 double réservoir (Entre 120 et 160 litres suffiront). Compte pour l'eau potable 2 à 3 L par personne/jour (du petit déj à la tisane du soir en passant par la soupe...) c'est large et cela te laisse une petite marge au cas où... Sinon tu auras des points d'eau pour la lessive, la vaisselle et la toilette dans tous les campsites (sauf probleme de plomberie)
Merci à tous pour vos conseils. J'ai envoyé quelques fax comme Ericarole me l'a recommandé et ... j'attends. Je vous tiendrai au courant de mes démarches et je suis sûre que je vous demanderai encore beaucoup de choses😉
À bientôt.
Nous sommes rentrés en début de semaine de notre voyage (avec notre fils de 8 ans). Le parcours est similaire ainsi que la durée (1 mois).
Premier point: au total, cela a fait 6400 km, c'est jouable mais c'est beaucoup, surtout quand on sait que les 2/3 du kilométrage s'est fait sur des routes dans un état plus que moyen !
Nous étions fin juillet à Moremi et début août à Chobe: les routes de toute la partie nord n'étaient pas praticables: de Khwai vers Chobe par Linyanti, plus de 2 mètres d'eau sur le parcours.
De Third Bridge à Xakanaxa, on a réussit à passer avec 1,2 m de flotte par endroit et c'était chaud... Néanmoins, en faisant des détours on peut aller n'importe où dans Moremi sans prendre de risque.
Chobe est très sablonneux, la conduite est éprouvante mais le risque de s'ensabler reste plus que limité (j'ai vu passer des combis Volkswagen sur les pistes !).
Il faudra donc considérer pour votre voyage que le passage de Savuti vers Khwai risque de se faire par South Gate et pas North Gate (il faut 1 h pour faire South Gate - North Gate, la piste est bonne).
Je n'avais aucune expérience de conduite 4x4 mais j'avais loué une vraie bonne voiture (avec un snorkel): Landcruiser série 70... et j'ai pas regretté...
Seules galères: 2 crevaisons... et un équipement de camping trop limité en matière de lumière ! A Moremi et Chobe, on était couché tôt car on ne voyait les hyènes à la nuit tombée que quand elles étaient à 1 m de nous ... et franchement ça file les jetons !
Une semaine en autonomie dans Moremi et Chobe c'est 120 litres de gasoil.
Merci Lilian pour les conseils. J'ai réservé les campings au Botswana 🙂 et j'essaie maintenant avec le NWR de Namibie qui a apparemment un problème d'informatique. Et je lis en attendant... août 2012!!!
Lilian, avec quelle agence avez-vous réservé le 4X4?
Lilian, avec quelle agence avez-vous réservé le 4X4?
Bonjour,
J'ai réservé chez Britz (agence de Windhoek). Rien à reprocher. Dans tous les cas, je n'avais plus trop le choix car la disponibilité du type de 4x4 que je voulais a été mon seul critère et je m'y suis pris un peu tard (vous, vous avez de la marge !).
Camp NWR de Naukluft: plutôt sympathique, en pleine nature
Olive Trail: 4 à 5h de marche sans trainer sur un terrain pas facile suspendu à des chaînes pour finir !
Excursion avec Mola Mola à Sandwich Harbour: On a pris le combiné Bateau puis Dunes avec repas, très bien, surtout les dunes.
Route vers Divundu: depuis Etosha, ça fait une trotte (c'est jouable mais faut partir tôt).
Chutes Victoria: Excursion réservable la veille sans problème, sachant que les départs se font aux alentours de 9h pour retour vers 17h.
Ihaha-Linyanti-Savuti-Khwai: Faire cette route en 3 jours signifie que vous allez quasiment passer votre temps à conduire. la conduite est longue et éprouvante et ne vous laissera pas le temps de chercher la faune. Vous risquez de vous frustrer...
En ce qui concerne les camps:
South Gate: très calme, jamais plein.
Khwai: bien placé, assez "sauvage" avec un point d'eau actif, on a vu lions, hippos et éléphants facilement.
Third Bridge: très sympa, le plus fréquenté, idéal pour les guépards
Savuti: emplacements sympas pour ceux qui se trouvent au bord de l'eau pour les autres, c'est bof
Ihaha: Vide, patrouille nocturne d'un garde EN VOITURE la nuit (côté tranquilité c'est pas idéal) ! Autant dormir à Kasane (Kasane - Ihaha = 30 mn de route)
Les routes:
South Gate - Khwai: bonne piste, des animaux.
Khwai - Third Bridge ou Khwai - Xakanaxa: de d'eau, gros risque de devoir passer par South Gate, la piste est pas très bonne et pas très fréquentée (par les animaux).
Third Bridge - Xakanaxa: de l'eau mais gérable.
Vers Lynianti ou Savuti depuis Moremi: passage quasi obligé par South Gate, piste très sablonneuse.
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
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🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards