Cotahuasi: bref séjour avec courtes randonnées (Pérou)
by Adlinepr
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Début mai je serai à Arequipa avec mon mari. Nous avons choisi de visiter le canon de Cotahuasi et nous sommes à la recherche d'infos récentes: le livre de Vincent Geus en effet est daté 2006 et les discussions sur le site ne sont pas trop fraîches. Les choses semblent avoir changé ...
Notre plan de voyage prévoit dex nuits dans le canyon; on aimerait quelques suggestions à propos de courtes randonnées qui nous permettent de passer la nuit chez les habitants; on aimerait également savoir s'il y à des nouveautés à propos de transports de/ pour Arequipa et dans le canyon même. Toute indication ulterieure sera accuillie avec plaisir!
Graziella,
ben tu vas dans mon blog, il y a notamment un article en anglais donné par un des visiteurs de Lonely Planet sur leur forum et des cartes. Et puis aussi un article sur les pierres sculptées, de Toro par exemple. Cela devrait au moins faire avancer ton projet.
En espérant que cela aide, Ciao.
pourrais-tu me donner l'adresse de ton blog pour avoir des infos sur le Pérou
Merci
Yoann
Merci
Yoann
Yoann, tu peux aller ici --> MAYAKE.
Bonne lecture
Ciao Jack, Merci pour les renseignements sur Cotahuasi (j'ai bien lu ton blog). Notre planification avance petit à petit (on a encore le temps de réfléchir!). Voilà quelques questions:
- une permanence de deux nuits dans le canyon de Cotahausi vaut-elle la peine, compte tenu de la distance à parcourir, du temps qu'il nous faudra, des inconvénients de la route dont quelqu'un me dit qu'elle est effrayante, car le bus passe à côté de précipices profonds? Ou, pour mieux dire, combien de nuits minimum faut -il passer dans le canyon à ton avis, pour que le voyage ait un sens?
- nous sommes également attirés par Huaraz, la possibilité de quelques balades d'une journée, la visite de Chavin et des autres sites archéologiques qu'on peut visiter à partir de Huaraz. Il nous paraît que le contexte là est un peu plus simple et le milieu naturel merveilleux, mais le temps que nous pouvons dédier à Huaraz dépend du temps consacré à Cotahausi. Nous disposons de 8- 9 journées àprès Cuzco, Machu Picchu, et Titicaca. Grazie!
Ciao Graziella
Si vous ne disposez que de ce temps, à mon avis, et puisque Arequipa est sur le chemin du retour vers Lima, autant aller à Cotahuasi. Sinon pour Huaraz il faudra déduire minimum 3 jours de trajet Aller-Retour avec changement de bus à Lima et les nuits passées dans le bus (bonjour la forme en sortant du bus).
La route pour Cotahuasi, si je ne me trompe pas, a été refaite sur une bonne partie du trajet, peut être même tout du long maintenant bien que ce ne soit pas asphaltée. Elle n'est pas dangereuse et vous la feriez presque toute de nuit parce que départ de très très bonne heure de Arequipa.
Il y a plusieurs possibilités de randos, aussi bien partie Est que partie Ouest, Cotahuasi étant plus ou moins au milieu. A chaque fois il y a possibilités d'hébergement et de restauration. De plus il y a normalement ASOTURS à Cotahuasi, une association locale qui peut vous aider et organiser votre truc si vous en avez besoin. Sans problème, il y a de quoi passer une semaine en faisant des boucles. Les dénivelés sont moins importants que le Colca et il y a beaucoup moins la foule et les hordes de touristes. C'est en partie pourquoi c'est si agréable ce coin. Les paysages sont très variés et les populations de cactées sont une merveille.
Voilà en pensant que cela peut éclairer.
Ciao
Bonsoir,
Nous avons déjà eté plusieurs fois à Cotahuasi et tous les bus partaient à la même heure, entre 16 et 16h30 ( La reyna, Alex, Immacula conception).Et si tout se passait bien on arrivait vers 4h du matin â Cotahuasi.
Tu dis est-ce une erreur de ta part ou les horaires ont-ils changé?
Nous savons que la cie Chromotex fait la route depuis quelque temps, est-ce cette cie qui part de très bonne heure?
Celà reste tout de même une route difficile, avec un col à 4500m d'altitude et une descente dangereuse sur Cotahuasi, et méme si les derniers km ont etés asphaltés recemment, il y a toujours beaucoup d'éboulis et de glissements de terrain.
Nous avons eté bloqués au col par de la neige et aussi plusieurs fois par des éboulis peu de km avant Cotahuasi; nous avions mis cette fois là 17 h de voyage, mais nous savions que celà pouvait arriver car c'etait en fevrier, a la saison des pluies .
Cordialement
Cela fait longtemps. C'est sans nul doute une erreur de ma part, ce dont je me souviens bien c'est le voyage de nuit assez terrible. C'est vrai les horaires sont à vérifier maintenant. Merci de rectifier et compléter. 😉
Hello!
Comme certain l'on dit, il y a des bus en effet tous les jours avec départ en fin d'après-midi en général, mais si mes souvenirs sont bon il me semble qu'une seule compagnie faisait le trajet de jour en partant très tot le matin. Il est preferable de reserver votre billet dans la journée avant de partir car le bus est très vite pleins avec tous les villageois qui font le trajet (et surtout leurs bagages). Attendez vous a ce que ce soit folklo! à voyager dans un bus complètement pourri, avec des poules et d'autres amis de basse-cours dans la soute a bagage, des gens entassés dans le couloir central du bus... bref rien que ça c'est déjà une aventure!(nous avions pris le bus le moins cher à 28 soles/pers.) La route est pas trop mal pendant une bonne partie mais les dernières heures sont terrible... elles est complètement défoncée! Ce qui est un peu embêtant c'est d'arrivé à 3h3o du matin dans un village inconnu au milieu de nul part, mais tu pourra frapper aux portes des auberges pour avoir un lit, ou faire comme nous planter la tente pour se reposer quelques heures. Point de vue hébergement, vous aurez le choix, car il n'y a aucun touriste (lors de notre passage nous étions les seuls). Les habitants vous voient un peu comme des ovnis, et ça c'est super pour les vrais rencontres authentiques. Il y a des combi qui relient les petits villages alentours dans tout le canyon. Les horaires ne sont pas très fixe, il faudra voir sur place et l'attendre parfois quelques heures. La lenteur des combis vous feront profiter du paysage superbe et passer a travers plein de petit village où toute la vie c'est organiser de façon intelligente et les gens sont heureux. Des petites ruelles pavées, des petits canaux pour l'eau... et c'est propre! Vous pourrez aller à la cataracte de Sipia. c'est très sauvage et très beau. le combi qui va en direction de Toro pourra vous déposer à une intersection, où il faudra marcher 20 minutes pour rejoindre un sentier qui vous mènera en 1O minutes a la cascade. Lors de notre passage, un chemin était en construction...Vous pourrez camper sans problème sur le site. Autre village interesant, c'est Pampamarca. Le trajet en combi y est superbe et c'est le village le plus haut du canyon (3400 mètre d'altitude). Il faut compter 2 heures de route.C'est rempli de terrasse cultivées dans ce desert aride. Vous aurez un panorama superbe, vue sur la chaine de montagne avec ses pics enneigés. Vous pourrez aussi planter la tente ou demander aux habitants qui seront super content de vous accueillir (sans vous demander un centimes). Vous pourrez aussi aller voir les condors...si vous arrivez a trouver un 4x4 qui vous y emmené... bref nous avons adoré l'authenticité de cet endroit qui parlait déjà de faire des infrastructures pour attirer les touristes... Bon voyage!
Comme certain l'on dit, il y a des bus en effet tous les jours avec départ en fin d'après-midi en général, mais si mes souvenirs sont bon il me semble qu'une seule compagnie faisait le trajet de jour en partant très tot le matin. Il est preferable de reserver votre billet dans la journée avant de partir car le bus est très vite pleins avec tous les villageois qui font le trajet (et surtout leurs bagages). Attendez vous a ce que ce soit folklo! à voyager dans un bus complètement pourri, avec des poules et d'autres amis de basse-cours dans la soute a bagage, des gens entassés dans le couloir central du bus... bref rien que ça c'est déjà une aventure!(nous avions pris le bus le moins cher à 28 soles/pers.) La route est pas trop mal pendant une bonne partie mais les dernières heures sont terrible... elles est complètement défoncée! Ce qui est un peu embêtant c'est d'arrivé à 3h3o du matin dans un village inconnu au milieu de nul part, mais tu pourra frapper aux portes des auberges pour avoir un lit, ou faire comme nous planter la tente pour se reposer quelques heures. Point de vue hébergement, vous aurez le choix, car il n'y a aucun touriste (lors de notre passage nous étions les seuls). Les habitants vous voient un peu comme des ovnis, et ça c'est super pour les vrais rencontres authentiques. Il y a des combi qui relient les petits villages alentours dans tout le canyon. Les horaires ne sont pas très fixe, il faudra voir sur place et l'attendre parfois quelques heures. La lenteur des combis vous feront profiter du paysage superbe et passer a travers plein de petit village où toute la vie c'est organiser de façon intelligente et les gens sont heureux. Des petites ruelles pavées, des petits canaux pour l'eau... et c'est propre! Vous pourrez aller à la cataracte de Sipia. c'est très sauvage et très beau. le combi qui va en direction de Toro pourra vous déposer à une intersection, où il faudra marcher 20 minutes pour rejoindre un sentier qui vous mènera en 1O minutes a la cascade. Lors de notre passage, un chemin était en construction...Vous pourrez camper sans problème sur le site. Autre village interesant, c'est Pampamarca. Le trajet en combi y est superbe et c'est le village le plus haut du canyon (3400 mètre d'altitude). Il faut compter 2 heures de route.C'est rempli de terrasse cultivées dans ce desert aride. Vous aurez un panorama superbe, vue sur la chaine de montagne avec ses pics enneigés. Vous pourrez aussi planter la tente ou demander aux habitants qui seront super content de vous accueillir (sans vous demander un centimes). Vous pourrez aussi aller voir les condors...si vous arrivez a trouver un 4x4 qui vous y emmené... bref nous avons adoré l'authenticité de cet endroit qui parlait déjà de faire des infrastructures pour attirer les touristes... Bon voyage!
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Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
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Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
hi
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann






