Bonjour, Je dois partir au Burkina faso au mois de février. Je vais à Manga à 125 kms de Ouaga.
Nous devons faire le trajet en bus et il parait qu'il y a "des coupeurs de route".
L'ambassade de France à Ouaga mets en garde les touristes.
Qui sont-ils?
Quels sont les risque envisagés?
Devons nous prendre des précautions ?
J'envisage d'emmener mes filles 12 et 15 ans. Cela n'est-il pas dangereux pour elles?
Merci pour vos réponses
Sylvie
ça arrive mais c'est pas courant! Mais de toute façon ne voyage pas la nuit autant que possible, à cause des accidents (on en parlait juste aujourd'hui dans un autre poste).
Les bus sont souvent chargés à la gueule, peut etre tes filles n'apprécieront pas(?)...Sinon tu peux louer un taxi...
salut
coupeur de route rare au burkina mais cela arrive (route ouaga - po - ghana essentiellement)comme dit par choucarde voyager de jour en partant de bon heure le matin c est plus secure cote accident et aussi pour eventuel coupeurs de route (qui interviennent plus souvent la nuit)
a plus
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Bonjour,
"ça arrive" plus précisement qu'est ce que ça veut dire. Comment ça se passe? Il ya t-il des risques, vols, pillages, violences etc..?
Cela m'inquiète un peu. Pouvez vous m'en dire plus?
Merci
Sylvie
Ils coupent la route, et réclament l'argent fouillent les bagages parfois, un braquage quoi, la violence ça peut arriver oui mais il ne faut pas résister pas de provoc pas de regard dans les yeux...Ils ont tués un sous préfet une fois en 2006, mais en général ils ne s'en prennent pas aux blancs parce que sinon c'est la chasse sur eux ensuite(la police à leur trousse) . Il faut donner de l'argent comme si c'était tout ce que tu avais...le truc c'est d'en planquer sur toi.
Mais je répète, en plus si tu es avec tes enfants ne voyagent pas de nuit.
Je ne connais pas la fréquence, au Burkina les coupeurs de routes c'est rare mais ça ne veut pas dire que ça n'arrive pas. De toute façon en Afrique ou qqs autres pays meme tu fais attention et respecte certaines règles de sécurité comme ne pas voyager de nuit, éviter de montrer argent quand tu achètes dans la rue et le répartir dans tes poches avant de pantalon, avoir de petites coupures, ça évite de tout sortir ...
C quand assez rare au burkina comparé à d'autres pays d'Afrique. Après ca arrive quelquefois des braquages sur la route mais comme déjà dit c essentiellement de nuit que ca se passe et plutôt dans l'est et le nord; donc roule de jour c mieux.
Dernière chose; choisis une bonne compagnie de bus et evite la rakieta; car le plus gros risque ce sont les accidents; ils conduisent trop vites; plus que les coupeurs de routes.
Comme dit choucarde, les bus sont bondés sauf sur certains petits troncons très bien desservis type koudougou-ouaga (on n'etait que 8 dans le bus que g pris) et à certaines heures.
Dans tous les cas tu en garderas un souvenir mémorable; bonne ambiance😉
C'est un pays très sympas le burkina; les burkinabés sont très accueillants.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
salut
il ya des coupeurs de routes. vrai. mais ils suffis de voyager en pleine journée..je suis comedien et nous faison souvent ce trajet pour des spectacle de sensibilisation mais jamais il ny a eu de risques. il ya des compagnies de voyage (bus climatisés)très classes de nos jours et qui sont securisées. ou alors loue une voiture ou prend une agence specialisés. c'est leur metier . pas d'inquietude . le burkina est la plus belle destination de lafrique de l'ouest!!! besoin d'autre renseignement, je suis là. ou elsolmi_22@yahoo.fr
Je vais au Burkina retrouver nos villages avec qui nous sommes jumelés pratiquement 1 fois par an depuis 10 ans.
Je n'ai pas souvent entendu parler des coupeurs de route.
Par contre, c'est vrai qu'il vaut mieux circuler le jour, ne serait ce que pour éviter les accidents automobiles. Car en effet comme tout pays pauvre, les pièces détachées coûtent chers et les véhicules ne sont pas tous forcémént bien éclairés.
les risques de la nuit : les animaux sur la route (anes, vaches, moutons), les véhicules en pannes sans signalisation, les piétons et comme ila été dit, les chauffeurs de bus qui roulent très vite ... et on a plus de chance d'avoir un incident ou accident que d'être ""attaqué""
Sinon, dans la journée, il y a plusieurs compagnies de bus (certaines à voir l'état du bus je ne monte pas dedans)
Sur la ligne Ouaga Bobo, il y a maintenant des lignes régulières avec réservation et enregistrement des bagages qui fonctionne parfaitement...
Ne vous inquiétez pas, au Burkina la grande majorité des gens sont extrèmemnt gentils et prêts à rendre service.
Vous entendrez souvent dire : "il n'a pas de problème" et on arrive toujours à trouver une solution.
Si c'est la première fois que vous y aller, vous verrez que le bus est intéressant pour entrer de suite dans la vie du pays : Aéroport - centre ville de Ouaga, on est encore dans un urbanisme pas trop dépaysant est l'on sort de la Banlieue de OUAGA et c'est le 'vrai Burkina .....;
salut
attention moi je vais aussi au burkina depuis 10 ans (bobo et sa region surtout) mais les coupeurs de route existent au burkina
surtout sur la route de ouaga - ghana (juste a vant po), il y a eu aussi du cote de orodara et au nord de bobo il y a a peu pres 3 ans
c est rare mais vrai ;il y a depuis 2 ans une police speciale qui patrouille sur les axes les plus concernes
mais comme ces coupeurs agissent de nuit : solution voyager de jour (vrai pour toute l afrique de toute façon)
a plus
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
J'espère que je ne vous ai pas effrayé!
J'ai parlé seulement des côtés qui paraissent un peu "lourds" au départ (et encore c un terme lourd lui meme)....Le règles de sécurité sont des choses dont il faut avoir conscience, ce sont des choses qui ne pèsent pas tant que ça en fait, faciles à adopter . Sinon comme d'autres personnes l'ont dit, les burkinabe sont sympas, c un pays plutot calme et accueillant (surtout à notre époque)....En observant qqs règles de sécurité simples et je dirais plutot de bon sens : "y a pas de probleme maman*!" 😉
Avant de payer le taxi, demandez toujours le prix avant et négocier si le prix est exagéré. Des personnes pourront sans doute vous renseigner sur les prix.
* maman est un terme de respect là bas et ailleurs en Afrique.
C'est effectivement une des règles : ne pas voyager la nuit et prendre une compagnie de transport dont les cars peuvent vous amener à bon port
Cependant, il s'agit de ne pas installer une psychose
Des mises en garde et des précautions à prendre, nous en retrouvons pour tous les pays
Et pour tous les pays, la règle essentielle est de ne pas se promener, avec beaucoup d'espèces (privilégier par exemple pour le Burkina, la carte bancaire Visa ou/et les travellers chèques), avec l'appareil photo dernier cri autour du cou, sortir une liasse de billets pour payer une broutille........Bref, les memes précautions que celles que vous adoptez dans votre pays
salut
c est vrai que le burkina est particulierement secure
mais pour les coupeurs de route il est bon de rapeller les consignes elementaires comme tu le fais car bcp de voyageurs circulent la nuit en voulant economiser une nuit d hotel !!! de plus les accidents les plus graves sont de nuit
malgre tout peut etre les pbs en CDI ont amplifie les coupeurs de route du fait de l absence totale de reglementation dans le nord de ce pays
a plus
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
oui possible mais c est souvent ces polemiques qui permettent de voir la realite des choses!!
mais bon comme les pbs de CDI sont en voie de resolution je pense que les coupeurs de routes seront encore plus rares
enfin je l espere!!
a plus
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Suis d'accord mais on peut pas eviter le sujet vu la question posée à l'origine.
L'été dernier, je n'ai pas entendu parler d'affaire de coupeurs de route récentes; rien de significatif du moins; d'après tous les burkinabés rencontrés, ca existe mais bien plus rare que dans d'autres pays d'Afrique et assez localisé comme dit plus au niveau lieux (est) et temps (la nuit)
a++
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
J ai uoublié de vous dire, ne pas prendre les bus de la compagnie Rakieta, trop pourris. Pas de problèmes pour voyager en famille, les Africains sont très respectueux de la famille
Salut
Comme te le conseillent mes prédécesseurs, ne privilégies que les voyages de jour. Pour ton confort et celui de tes filles, de très bonnes compagnies de bus, avec respect du nombre de passagers et confort, permettent de voyager sur les grands axes en grande sécurité. Le Burkina faso est considéré comme un pays calme et accueillant et je le constate jours après jours depuis près de 10 ans.
Si tu veux d'autres renseignements, n'hésites pas
Xavier
Bonjour,
Merci pour tes infos.
Je dois venir avec mes deux filles de 12 ans et 15 ans.
Est ce un pays pas trop difficile pour elles, chaleur, nourriture etc..?
Je souhaite qu'elles découvrent la culture du Burkina Faso, forcément différente de la notre, en toute sécurité.
Merci
Sylvie
A propos des coupeurs de route au Burkina faso, le MAE signale une augmentation depuis quelques semaines.
J'ai lu des articles sur "lefaso.net", qui relatent 3 braquages en novembre en pleine jounnée, je'ai relevé les titres :
- Route Debougou - Bobo : 15 M FCFA braqués !
- Route Gaoua - Pa : 4 bléssés dans une tentaive de braquage !
- Sideradougou : un car braqué en plaine ville
Je sais que ce phénomène était déjà présent, mais qu'est-ce qui explique cette augmentation ? Qu'en est-il actuellement, au mois de décembre ?
Et qu'est-ce qui peut me convaincre de ne pas voyager au Burkina Faso en raison de l'augmentation de ce risque (je prévois aussi de voyager au Mali) ?
J'espère avoir du monde pour débattre sur ce sujet, à vos clavier !
"Et qu'est-ce qui peut me convaincre de ne pas voyager au Burkina Faso en raison de l'augmentation de ce risque (je prévois aussi de voyager au Mali) ? "
Bonjour,
En réponse, je dirai rien; vas y sans trop t'inquiéter; par contre ne roules jamais de nuit ou à la tombée de la nuit, choisis une bonne compagnie type STMB, fais gaffe à tes affaires surtout dans les villes et sinon précautions d'usage valables partout.
Après le risque zéro n'existe nul part comme le prouvent bien ces récents braquages de jour.
Avant cette récente vague; celà arrivait mais rarement et surtout de nuit.
Le burkina reste malgré celà l'un des pays les plus surs d'Afrique Subsaharienne.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Tu sais des coupeurs de routes il y en a plus ou moins dans beaucoup de pays d'Afrique. Il peut y avoir plusieurs raisons à cela, la pauvreté en est une, l'approche d'élections, le non paiement de salaires, corruption, l'instabilité politique ou conflits de pays voisins, les fêtes de fins d'années ou autres aussi....il vaut mieux avoir toujours une oreille à l'écoute sur place et s'informer avant de partir sur l'itinéraire. Dans la plupart des cas les coupeurs de routes cherchent seulement l'argent, à faire vite et filer et il ne faut donc pas résister pour éviter d'accentuer l'énervement. J'ai déjà vu de ces coupeurs de routes genre pieds nickelés, une seule fois tant mieux et c'était pas au Burkina si ça te rassure un peu, ils étaient un peu bourrés (pour se donner du "courage" peut être?) et gueulards, mais pas d'armes(enfin des batons qd meme) donc ils ne s'en prenaient qu'aux voitures...c'était en milieu de mois environ ou un peu apres la 15zaine en brousse, à mon avis il n'y avait plus l'argent et la paye encore à attendre , on a payé et ils nous avaient laissé passer sans plus de blêmes. Pour dire qu'il y a toutes sortes de coupeurs de routes(banditisme et ceux à "l'occasion") et d'explications à ce phénomène, de plus il peut y avoir effet boule de neige comme d'autres phénomènes ailleurs.
Mais je pense que le Burkina reste encore assez sécure pour l'Afrique et que tu ne vas pas en rencontrer tous les jours et sans doute jamais durant ton voyage je te le souhaite en tous cas😉. Qqs règles de sécurité et de bon sens, écouter les mises en gardes des gens sur place.
Bon voyage;)
Bonjour
j'étais à PO en décembre 2007 et janvier 2008 , il y a eu à cette époque là beaucoup de problèmes de coupeurs de route on m'a expliqué que c'était surtout au moment des fetes , de toutes façons il faut toujours éviter d'avoir des sacs , des appareils photos enfin tout ce qui peut tenter quand on se promène à pieds , ce qui est normal , logique , puisque plus des trois quart des habitants ne possèdent rien , les papiers dans une pochette intérieure
Par contre ça ne sert à rien d'en faire une fixation si ça arrive , obéir et se taire surtout ce sont des choses qui peuvent nous arriver sur n'importe quel parking en France quand on s'arrete pour dormir
je repars en début d'année au Burkina et seule en voiture
bon voyage
Michèle
Oui les autoroutes chez nous non plus ne sont pas plus sûre...d'ailleurs en France je ne m'arrete pas sur un parking pour dormir non plus, à la limite j'ai plus confiance dans certaines brousses en Afrique.
Bon voyage.
Bonjour,
Mais bien sûr on se fait égorger tous les jours en France🤪 (pas plus en Afrique d'ailleurs).
Cette parano des Français excessive justifie peut être qu'ils fassent quasi tous la gueule dans la rue et les lieux publics.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Tiens je découvre qu'il y a des coupeurs de route en France😎
Le burkina reste un pays sûr; ok mais la France aussi; alors arrêtons de toujours comparer les pays entre eux.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
bonjour monsieur
qui te parle d'etre égorgé en France? ça pourrait arriver mais, non je n'y ai jamais pensé , je suis toujours sur les routes de longues distances et retour de nuit , obligatoirement je dors sur les parkings , sache que ce n'est pas marrant d'etre réveillé par un mec qui frappe à ta vitre , tu n'as pas envie de savoir ce qu'il te veut
ce n'est pas le fait d'etre parano c'est etre logique tout simplement , toi tu es un mec donc les choses sont différentes et encore!!....
es tu allé souvent au Burkina , moi je vais au sud , pres de Nazinga , si tu veux je te donne les tel de mes amis là bas ils te raconteront et tu constateras que ce ne sont pas des betises , meme des gendarmes de la brigade de PO se sont fait avoir il y a 3 ou 4 ans, le Burkina est un pays sur, oui mais comme dans tous les pays il y a du bon et du mauvais et pour ce qui est des fetes de fin d'année tout le monde a envie de faire la fete, quelque soit la religion , mais il manque d'argent alors c'est une façon comme une autre d'en trouver mais ce n'est pas une raison pour ne pas s'y rendre la preuve est que j'y pars en début d'année en voiture et seule
bien cordialement
Michèle
soit moins agressif ça ne sert à rien de vouloir bouffer tout le monde parceque tu as un point de vue que tu veux imposer
Au cas ou juste pour vous préciser que vous concernant je faisais de l'humour sans aucune agressivité.😉
Par contre concernant la choucarde il y a de la tension entre nous sur ce forum: mais aucun rapport avec vous ni votre post
Cordialement🙂
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie