Connaissez-vous une agence locale ayant une bonne connaissance du terrain pour nous faire découvrir cet endroit?
Pour l'instant, j'en ai contacté deux : Eden Garden Tour, pas cher mais je ne suis pas sûre qu'ils connaissent ce coin aussi bien que le désert blanc, et Helal Travel, bien plus cher, qui a l'air de mieux connaître.
Si l'un d'entre vous a voyagé avec l'une de ces agences ou une autre, je serais ravie de savoir comment ça s'est passé.
(on voudrait ne pas faire que du 4X4 mais aussi marcher dans de beaux coins SANS 4X4)
Pas vraiment d'agence à te recommander. J'ai bien croisé un guide anglophone en avril qui avait l'air très compétent mais à part qu'il y avait aventure dedans, je ne suis pas foutu de me souvenir du nom de l'agence. Quand à moi, j'avais loué un minibus avec chauffeur.
Le 4x4 te sera utile car la route est ensablée par endroits. Arrivé au wadi, il y a un sentier balisé jusqu'aux différents fossiles, rien de très impressionnant, les plus beaux squelettes ne sont pas accessibles pour les protéger. Il y a des panneaux d'explication bien utiles lorsqu'on n'est pas spécialiste en paleontologie, placés dans des cabanes en brique crues pratiques pour se protéger du vent ou du soleil et souffler un moment. La ballade est sympa, le cadre vaut bien le désert blanc, mais c'est une réserve naturelle et je ne pense pas qu'on puisse sortir des chemins balisés. Sur la route, tu peux t'arréter au wadi rayan où il y a une chute d'eau artificielle, mais bon, rien de bien transcendant.
Ah! Merci Aswad, je désespérai d'avoir des infos sur ce coin.
Voici ce que me propose Hela travel dans ce coin (après on va vers le désert blanc):
the first day : starting from Cairo around 8:00 morning visiting ( Wadi Elrayan, Karoon lake, water falls, the four springs then the church ) camping in the desert. the second day: Wadi Hitan and in the afternoon going to Bahariya in the way to Bahariya we will see the Fossils Valley, some sand dunes, arriving Bahariya in the evening spending the night in my camp, it's behind the Black Desert 35KM from Bahariya.
Nous ne sommes en effet pas férus de paléontologie mais j'espérais que le paysage vaudrait le déplacement. Apparemment... bof?
Tu penses qu'il vaut mieux passer plus de temps dans le désert blanc?
Mais peut-être qu'il prévoit de nous emmener plus à l'ouest que tu n'es allé? Est-ce que les indications données ci-dessus te disent qq chose?
Marie
Pour résumer, wadi rayan, bof, ça ne mérite pas plus d'une heure, c'est là qu'il y a les chutes d'eau, le lac Quarun (karoon comme ils l'écrivent), ben, ça dépend où ils s'arrétent, mais le plus agréable serait de vous enfoncer un peu dans le fayoum. L'église, je ne sais pas de quoi ils parlent.
wadi el hitan, c'est sympa, mais comme je t'ai décrit, c'est à une trentaine de km de wadi rayan, donc je suppose que vous camperez entre les deux. Sur le site, il est interdit de s'écarter des zones balisées, une voiture de diplomates belges aurait écrabouillé une baleine il y a quelques temps et ça a fait du foin.
Je ne sais pas si la vallée des fossiles dont ils parlent est un autre site sur la route de Baharya, ou si c'est wadi el hitane, leur description est un peu confuse.
Effectivement, je ne suis pas allé plus à l'ouest sur cette route, pour aller à Bahareya, j'étais passé par Alexandrie et Siwa. Mais du Fayoum, je suppose qu'il vont vous faire reprendre la grande (et morne) route entre qui relie Le Caire à Bahareya, c'est la seule dans le coin et ça m'étonnerait qu'il y ait une piste permettant d'être le soir à l'oasis.
Bon, mmmouais, me v'là perplexe...
Je peux toujours espérer que Helal connaisse des coins un peu hors de sentiers battus un peu plus à l'ouest, mais.... l'espoir me parait mince.
Je vais encore rôder sur le net pour essayer de trouver d'autres infos!
En tout cas, merci Aswad!
Marie
J'ai eu beau regarder, plus à l'ouest, pas grand chose et la grand route vers l'oasis est à une soixantaine de km maxi. Je ne connais pas ton itinéraire, mais je te conseillerais plutôt si tu peux de passer par Alexandrie et Siwa, ou alors juste un petit crochet sur wadi el hitane en allant à bahareya, mais sans que ça te prenne autant de temps.
J'hésite, j'hésite.
La difficulté quand on ne trouve pas d'info sur un endroit c'est que ça peut être parce qu'il ne présente pas d'intérêt particulier ou alors parce qu'il n'existe pas (encore) d'infrastructure touristique.
Je crois que je vais simplement poser la question à ces 2 agences, même si je ne suis pas sûre de leur impartialité quant à la réponse car pour elles c'est plus simple de nous emmener dans leur "camps" habituels que de sortir des "autoroutes".
Je crois que je suis si curieuse que je regretterais de ne pas y être allée, dilemme, dilemme....
Et puis, même si c'est un peu "bof", on commencera notre voyage par là donc on ne sera pas encore blasé!
A+
Marie
Essaie d'avoir plus de détails sur les programmes. Pour celui que tu as transmis, je dirais que la première journée n'est peut-être pas terrible, mais parfois un bon guide peut rendre les choses plus intéressantes. Le deuxième sera sans doute meilleure, et puis il y a le trajet vers Bahareya pas drôle, mais inévitable, et si tu regardes une carte, ça fait quand même un paquet de km.
Si cette escapade ne te coute pas trop cher, je dirais vas-y, c'est ce que j'ai fait et même si tout n'était pas génial, je ne le regrette pas.
Il est effectivement plus pratique pour eux d'avoir des circuits standard que tout le monde fait, à moins de tomber sur la perle rare qui va t'emmener dans des coins superbes où il n'y a personne. Mais ça dépend de la chance, ça m'est arrivé à Siwa, mais dans les autres oasis, je me suis retrouvé aux mêmes endroits que tout le monde (pas toujours en même temps heureusement), mais ce n'est pas un hasard, si ces endroits sont très fréquentés, c'est aussi parce qu'ils sont chouettes.
Ludo
Tu devrais y arriver!
Quid des températures en février?
Y es-tu déjà allé à cette période?
J'ai bien trouvé un site de stat mais il n'indique que les températures moyennes (jour et nuit mélangés)
Marie
En février, je ne connais que Le Caire et le nord du Sinaï. Froid la nuit (vraiment frois), pluies possibles, vent de sable aussi, à partir de 9h, ça devient vraiment agréable. Quand j'y étais, je passais de blouson et pull à pull puis T-shirt entre 6 h et 10 h.
Cette vallée des balaines n'est pas toujours bien fréquentée. j'ai lu dans le dernier Ulysse qu'un 4x4 diplomatique a écrasé un squelette foscilisé de baleine, poursuivant son chemin alors que les gardes du site leur ordonaient d'arrêter ! Moi, j'aurais tiré dans les pneus ! 🤪
Ah! Merci Aswad, je désespérai d'avoir des infos sur ce coin.
Voici ce que me propose Hela travel dans ce coin (après on va vers le désert blanc):
the first day : starting from Cairo around 8:00 morning visiting ( Wadi Elrayan, Karoon lake, water falls, the four springs then the church ) camping in the desert. the second day: Wadi Hitan and in the afternoon going to Bahariya in the way to Bahariya we will see the Fossils Valley, some sand dunes, arriving Bahariya in the evening spending the night in my camp, it's behind the Black Desert 35KM from Bahariya.
bonjour,
cette agence te propose un itineraire "hors pistes et hors routes" magnifique !!!
il existe effetivemetn une connection connue par les agences specialistes de ce coin de desert reliant le fayoum a l'oasis de baharyah ... je l'ai faite plusieurs fois et ai monté le meme programme dans l'autre sens pour le TO pour lequel je travaille !
la route est magnifisque par la mais il faut etre absolument 2 voitures car loin de toute civilisation pour au moins 12 heures de ce "hors piste " et snas couverture telephone (avions un telephone satelite de secours avec nous)
"the church" dont ils parlent doit etre le monsastere troglodyte a proximité des lacs et a la "sortie de l'oasis de wadi rayan", ils y vivent en hermite la moitié du temps et cultivent un petit jardinde legume grace effectivement a des sources d'eau douces jaillissant au milieu de nulle part et créant leur oasis.... si tu as une tenue décente, ils te laisseront entrer, visiter leur monastere et meme t'inviter a prednre le thé ...
les dunes dont ils parlent sont effectivement des dunes géantes magnifiques que tu devra passer en chemin dans le detroit que forme le wadi rayan sur plusieurs dizaines de kilometres ...sensations assurées si tu as un excellent chauffeur ... galere et pelles a sable sinon a prevoir !!
des photos et souvenirs immemorables de ce parcours...
le black desert et le white desert peuvent etre fait en continuité ... c'etait notre itineraire pour 5 jours et 4 nuits en totalité avec retour au caire par la route ...
je connais bien Helal et son agence 🙂. Il est quelqu'un de très sérieux, vous n'aurez pas de mauvaises surprises. Il est localisé à Baharya, et connait très très bien les déserts blancs, noir, Western, oasis etc ! Il vous fera un trip sur mesure !
Je pars, une fois de plus, ce WE dans le désert des baleines. C'est vrai que la réserve n'est pas immense, mais il y a des paysages magnifiques (également avant d'entrer dans la réserve).
Si vous entrez par la route de Baharya (et non par la route du Fayoum), vous passerez dans des endroits magnifiques.
Il est vrai que le désert des baleines n'est pas très grand et que la pluspart des ossements ont été abimés (ou volés...😠), mais pour 1 WE ou juste 2-3 jours si vous voulez faire un peu de marche, c'est vraiment très beau 😏.
Bonjour Cécile et bienvenue sur le forum!
Il doit être vraiment sympathique ce Mr Helal pour susciter ces messages de soutien sur le forum...
Bonne balade!
Marie
ce sont des français qui l'on "boosté" ces deux dernières années pour monter son business avec son site internet et tout et tout (il a même des tentes 3s ramenées de Décathlon.... alors que la pluspart des autres bédouins ne proposent qu'un couchage à la belle étoile - ce qui n'est pas mal non plus ! mais si on a le choix... en cas de bêbêtes.....). Son camp est très bien tenu (il y a même 2 douches et WC !) au pied du désert noir.... J'y ai passé ma 1ère nuit dans le désert il y a un peu plus de 1 an, et maintenant je suis accroc !
Et entre nous, je préfère partir avec un bédouin sans GPS, qu'avec des étrangers et 3 GPS !!!!
Pour voir les photos en grand format, cliquer ici: si belle la terre EGYPTE FEVRIER 2008 « Maman, si on allait en Egypte?! » « Pff! Bof! Va y avoir la foule et…
Activités aquatiques en voyage › Égypte · 5 replies
Pour me présenter j'adore voyager et faire de la plonger en même temps? J'ai un niveau rescue (PADI) et une 100 de plongées. J'ai besoin d'un petit de la part…
Je compte arriver fin janvier à Abou Simbel en provenance de Wadi Halfa au Soudan dans l' après midi et repartir le lendemain également l' après midi pour…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!