Randonnée de Devil's Garden et Primitive Trail (Arches National Park)
by JMPe
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à tous,
Je suis en train de préparer mon séjour de l'été 2009.
A arches NP je prévois de faire la randonnée de Devils Garden.
D'après vous, le retour par primitive trail vaut-il le coup ?
Et quelle est la difficulté réelle ? On lit en effet des avis très différents sur le net.
Merci d'avance.
http://mjm-nosvoyages.blogspot.fr/
http://surlarouteasiatique.blogspot.fr/ : périple de 5 mois en Asie et 3 mois dans l'ouest Américain
Hello,
Oui le retour par Primitive Trail vaut le coup car il est plus sauvage, aventureux et fun que celui qui mène à Double O Arch : il faut bien suivre les cairns (dès qu'on n'en voit plus c'est qu'on s'est trompé et il faut revenir en arrière) car on ne peut pas deviner où on va nous faire passer dans ce labyrinthe, on passe entre et sur les monolithes de grès (2 ou 3 fois il faut s'aider un peu des mains) mais il faut éviter ce chemin par temps humide car le slickrock serait glissant. En étant prudent et attentionné ce n'est pas vraiment difficile et c'est à la portée de quasiment tout le monde dans une forme normale, le problème pouvant être l'intense chaleur en été (amener beaucoup d'eau).
Philippe
Oui le retour par Primitive Trail vaut le coup car il est plus sauvage, aventureux et fun que celui qui mène à Double O Arch : il faut bien suivre les cairns (dès qu'on n'en voit plus c'est qu'on s'est trompé et il faut revenir en arrière) car on ne peut pas deviner où on va nous faire passer dans ce labyrinthe, on passe entre et sur les monolithes de grès (2 ou 3 fois il faut s'aider un peu des mains) mais il faut éviter ce chemin par temps humide car le slickrock serait glissant. En étant prudent et attentionné ce n'est pas vraiment difficile et c'est à la portée de quasiment tout le monde dans une forme normale, le problème pouvant être l'intense chaleur en été (amener beaucoup d'eau).
Philippe
www.phschuler.com et www.ouestusa.fr, pour une vision de l'Ouest en dehors des sentiers battus.
Carnet de voyage Ouest USA 2009
Ballade intéressante que je n'ai point faite. Coordonnées GPS: http://www.protrails.com/trail.php?trailID=129
Carte: http://climb-utah.com/Moab/Maps/Devil.JPG
Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses.
Je crois que je vais me laisser tenter.
Si j'ai bien compris, lors du retour par primitive trail on a des vues sympas sur les "fins" ?
Bye.
http://mjm-nosvoyages.blogspot.fr/
http://surlarouteasiatique.blogspot.fr/ : périple de 5 mois en Asie et 3 mois dans l'ouest Américain
Je confirme ce que dit Sedonax. Le trail est superbe, tranquille (tout le monde passe de l'autre côté), tu ne regretteras pas d'avoir fait le détour. Les difficultés sont minimes, excepté les passages sur le grés, la plus grande serait de bien suivre les cairns. Quand on l'a fait, des rangers étaient assis à l'ombre d'un rocher et servaient de poteaux indicateurs...😎
Pascale
Pascale
Hello!
Je viens sur ce post que j'avais consulté avant mon départ aux usa, et j'avais lu que le Primitive Trail du Devil's Garden n'était pas si dur que ça.
Et bien moi je l'ai trouvé dur ce trail!!!!
Ok je suis un peu du genre poule mouillée, mais plusieurs fois je me suis dit "merde si je tombe, comment je ferai pour remonter". Certains passages sur les roches m'ont bien donné des sueurs foides!
Mais c'est vrai que les paysages sont splendides, le chemin est bien plus intéressant que l'autre, et sturtout on y est au calme!
Bon je suis contente, maintenant je me dis "je l'ai fait", mais j'ai eu peur!!! Et en tout, en allant voir toute les arches et en escaladant un peu autour, et en faisasnt une grosse pause de 40 minutes à Double O Arch, on a mis un peu plus de 4h tout de même!
Bon je suis contente, maintenant je me dis "je l'ai fait", mais j'ai eu peur!!! Et en tout, en allant voir toute les arches et en escaladant un peu autour, et en faisasnt une grosse pause de 40 minutes à Double O Arch, on a mis un peu plus de 4h tout de même!
Mes voyages sur http://laetitiaraconte.over-blog.com/
Hello,
Je viens sur ce post que j'avais consulté avant mon départ aux usa, et j'avais lu que le Primitive Trail du Devil's Garden n'était pas si dur que ça. Et bien moi je l'ai trouvé dur ce trail!!!! Ok je suis un peu du genre poule mouillée, mais plusieurs fois je me suis dit "merde si je tombe, comment je ferai pour remonter". Certains passages sur les roches m'ont bien donné des sueurs foides!
C'est vrai que chacun peut avoir une perception différente, en ce qui me concerne la partie slickrock ne m'a pas impressionné (le slickrock adhère bien si on a de bonnes semelles) mais j'ai trouvé plus pénible la partie finale où il faut marcher dans le sable mou.
Bon je suis contente, maintenant je me dis "je l'ai fait", mais j'ai eu peur!!!
Bravo pour avoir persévéré et surmonté ta peur. Si tu veux continuer dnas cette voie du dépassement de soi, la prochaine étape sera Angel's Landing à Zion 😛
Et en tout, en allant voir toute les arches et en escaladant un peu autour, et en faisasnt une grosse pause de 40 minutes à Double O Arch, on a mis un peu plus de 4h tout de même!
Tu avais tout de même un bon rythme si tu as fait tout cela en 4 heures
Philippe
Je viens sur ce post que j'avais consulté avant mon départ aux usa, et j'avais lu que le Primitive Trail du Devil's Garden n'était pas si dur que ça. Et bien moi je l'ai trouvé dur ce trail!!!! Ok je suis un peu du genre poule mouillée, mais plusieurs fois je me suis dit "merde si je tombe, comment je ferai pour remonter". Certains passages sur les roches m'ont bien donné des sueurs foides!
C'est vrai que chacun peut avoir une perception différente, en ce qui me concerne la partie slickrock ne m'a pas impressionné (le slickrock adhère bien si on a de bonnes semelles) mais j'ai trouvé plus pénible la partie finale où il faut marcher dans le sable mou.
Bon je suis contente, maintenant je me dis "je l'ai fait", mais j'ai eu peur!!!
Bravo pour avoir persévéré et surmonté ta peur. Si tu veux continuer dnas cette voie du dépassement de soi, la prochaine étape sera Angel's Landing à Zion 😛
Et en tout, en allant voir toute les arches et en escaladant un peu autour, et en faisasnt une grosse pause de 40 minutes à Double O Arch, on a mis un peu plus de 4h tout de même!
Tu avais tout de même un bon rythme si tu as fait tout cela en 4 heures
Philippe
www.phschuler.com et www.ouestusa.fr, pour une vision de l'Ouest en dehors des sentiers battus.
Carnet de voyage Ouest USA 2009
Merci Philippe!
Oui je suis aussi d'accord pour la partie danas le sable mou, et en plus avec la chaleur!
Ah tu trouves que 4h c'est pas si nul que ça?!?
En tout cas cette journée avec cette rando et celle de Delicate Arch le soir est mon meilleur souvenir du séjour, tout du moins la journée la plus chargée en émotions!
Ah tu trouves que 4h c'est pas si nul que ça?!?
En tout cas cette journée avec cette rando et celle de Delicate Arch le soir est mon meilleur souvenir du séjour, tout du moins la journée la plus chargée en émotions!
Mes voyages sur http://laetitiaraconte.over-blog.com/
Hello Laetitia,
Ah tu trouves que 4h c'est pas si nul que ça?!?
C'est un bon rythme compte tenu des visites et des pauses que tu évoques, mais il n'est pas question de qualifier cela de "bien" ou de "nul", chacun va à son rythme et visite les lieux comme il l'entend.
En tout cas cette journée avec cette rando et celle de Delicate Arch le soir est mon meilleur souvenir du séjour, tout du moins la journée la plus chargée en émotions!
Ces 2 randonnées, plus quelques points de vue sur la scenic road en passant, permettent effectivement de réaliser une très belle journée à Arches qui est un parc magnifique, au delà même des arches qui ont fait sa réputation.
Si tu es impressionnée par les balades sur du slickrock pentu avec risques de chute, il ne faudra pas que tu fasses celle que j'ai faite cette année pour visiter des ruines Anasazi encore confidentielles. Il faut suivre la vire en venant de la gauche de la photo (on y devine la silhouette de mon ami John au bord du précipice) puis passer au bord (et à gauche) de la ruine en premier plan. Là, c'est franchement impressionnant !
Philippe

Ah tu trouves que 4h c'est pas si nul que ça?!?
C'est un bon rythme compte tenu des visites et des pauses que tu évoques, mais il n'est pas question de qualifier cela de "bien" ou de "nul", chacun va à son rythme et visite les lieux comme il l'entend.
En tout cas cette journée avec cette rando et celle de Delicate Arch le soir est mon meilleur souvenir du séjour, tout du moins la journée la plus chargée en émotions!
Ces 2 randonnées, plus quelques points de vue sur la scenic road en passant, permettent effectivement de réaliser une très belle journée à Arches qui est un parc magnifique, au delà même des arches qui ont fait sa réputation.
Si tu es impressionnée par les balades sur du slickrock pentu avec risques de chute, il ne faudra pas que tu fasses celle que j'ai faite cette année pour visiter des ruines Anasazi encore confidentielles. Il faut suivre la vire en venant de la gauche de la photo (on y devine la silhouette de mon ami John au bord du précipice) puis passer au bord (et à gauche) de la ruine en premier plan. Là, c'est franchement impressionnant !
Philippe

www.phschuler.com et www.ouestusa.fr, pour une vision de l'Ouest en dehors des sentiers battus.
Carnet de voyage Ouest USA 2009
Hello Philippe
Tu nous mets l'eau a la bouche en montrant une randonnee de reve mais reservee aux inities. Avec de bonnes chaussures comme tu le dis on accroche bien sur le gres. Une remarque: on ne dis plus Anazasi mais Ancient Pueblan .
Cordialement,
Francoise
Ohlala!
Elle est trop belle cette photo!
Arrête donc!!!
Mes voyages sur http://laetitiaraconte.over-blog.com/
Hello Françoise,
Tu nous mets l'eau a la bouche en montrant une randonnee de reve mais reservee aux inities.
Comme ces ruines ne sont pas situées sur une réserve indienne ou un site protégé, l'accès n'en est pas "interdit" mais les locaux ne veulent pas que sa localisation soit diffusée sur le web car ces ruines sont fragiles et non consolidées, l'accès n'y est pas facile (en 4x4 puis à pied) et leur visite est dangereuse car un faux pas n'y pardonne pas. Leur visite est "réservée" aux plus motivés... comme moi... et peut être toi (qui a été 2 fois à Keet Seel !).
Une remarque: on ne dis plus Anazasi mais Ancient Pueblan
Tu as raison, on ne devrait plus dire Anasazi car ce terme (de langue Navajo) n'est pas apprécié des Pueblos modernes et d'un certain nombre d'archéologues, mais il reste de loin le plus largement utilisé et il faudra encore longtemps pour que "Ancient Pueblos" finisse par le supplanter dans le langage courant.
Philippe
Tu nous mets l'eau a la bouche en montrant une randonnee de reve mais reservee aux inities.
Comme ces ruines ne sont pas situées sur une réserve indienne ou un site protégé, l'accès n'en est pas "interdit" mais les locaux ne veulent pas que sa localisation soit diffusée sur le web car ces ruines sont fragiles et non consolidées, l'accès n'y est pas facile (en 4x4 puis à pied) et leur visite est dangereuse car un faux pas n'y pardonne pas. Leur visite est "réservée" aux plus motivés... comme moi... et peut être toi (qui a été 2 fois à Keet Seel !).
Une remarque: on ne dis plus Anazasi mais Ancient Pueblan
Tu as raison, on ne devrait plus dire Anasazi car ce terme (de langue Navajo) n'est pas apprécié des Pueblos modernes et d'un certain nombre d'archéologues, mais il reste de loin le plus largement utilisé et il faudra encore longtemps pour que "Ancient Pueblos" finisse par le supplanter dans le langage courant.
Philippe
www.phschuler.com et www.ouestusa.fr, pour une vision de l'Ouest en dehors des sentiers battus.
Carnet de voyage Ouest USA 2009
OK, j'arrête....
Philippe
Philippe
www.phschuler.com et www.ouestusa.fr, pour une vision de l'Ouest en dehors des sentiers battus.
Carnet de voyage Ouest USA 2009
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I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
hi
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra






