Day-hike guide in Northern Vietnam
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
AP
My husband and I are planning a 10-day trip to Northern Vietnam in November, traveling independently (no agency organizing everything) and using local buses. We’d like to spend at least 3 days in each place (including Meo Vac). We’re wondering if it’s possible to find local guides for day hikes, and if so, in which towns/villages (Meo Vac plus one or two other spots to explore the surrounding area). Thanks!
catherine
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
If you're heading to Sapa—yes, it's super touristy, but the surrounding area is absolutely worth it—I'd recommend getting in touch with Nhu, a young Hmong woman who speaks perfect French. She and her husband run a small guiding agency to show travelers around their region. You can reach her through her website https://sapa-decouverte.com/ (she’s really responsive on WhatsApp). And you can even spend the night at her place.
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
AP Apilipol ·
thanks for this info.... So that means there are guides outside the big tourism agencies! But we were actually thinking of avoiding Sapa, which seems to be quite the hotspot. I’ll still note down their details though, and we’ll think it over before contacting them so we’re clear about what we want.
catherine
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
I think I remember that Nhu’s husband went with other travelers on the Ha Giang Loop when we were in Sapa. Maybe check what they could offer you over there.
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
AP Apilipol ·
thanks. We’ll reach out to them, because you never know! They might have contacts who could meet our needs!
catherine
AP Apilipol ·
Hey there, we're back! So, we contacted Nhu, whose details you gave me. She’s offering us a 6-day trip (Lao Cai, Ha Giang, Yen Minh, Dong Van, Meo Vac, Di Giang, and back to Ha Giang), including visits to ethnic minorities... with 3 hikes of 5 to 7 hours packed in. We don’t have the cost yet, but whatever it is, it doesn’t really suit us. We’d dreamed of settling in a small town for a week and finding a guide for day hikes (around 6 hours of walking), or even 2-day treks with homestays. But it seems like the tourist reality in Vietnam—at least in this region and from what we’re seeing—is all about cramming in as much as possible in record time.

Anyway... we have another option: head to Lao Cai and, once there, try to find a hiking guide with a car to explore the area. So much for our dream of Dong Van and Meo Vac! Do you know if that’s possible? Are there reliable, independent guides available for this kind of request?

Thanks no matter what! Catherine
catherine
OL OldPlatypus Regular ·
Okay... we have another option: go to Lao Cai, and once there, try to find a hiking guide with a car to explore the area, and forget our dream of Dong Van and Meo Vac for now! Do you know if that’s possible? Are there any reliable, independent guides available for this kind of request?

Sorry, I don’t have any more info than what I’ve already shared, and I’m not sure what’s possible from Lao Cai. However, there are several French-speaking travel agencies, often based in Hanoi (you’ll find them easily online), that you could reach out to with your plans.

Good luck with your search!
Mon voyage au Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/discussion/pays-tswanas-botswana-d9819920/
AP Apilipol ·
thanks for taking the time to reply! we’ll see what’s possible when we get there, and...we’ll adapt!!!!!
catherine
GA Gaura Veteran ·
Hi, I hadn’t replied to your request because what you’re asking for seems impossible unless Vietnam has changed a lot in recent years. First, don’t forget that the political regime controls everything, including what happens in remote villages. The mountain roads are tough—you’ll need a good car and a good driver. The ethnic groups you want to meet live in remote areas, accessible only on foot or by motorbike. Many don’t speak Vietnamese, so you’ll need a guide with contacts among the ethnic groups and access to authorized accommodations. Food is also an issue—there are no roadside eateries in remote villages, so it’s often the Vietnamese guide who buys the meat or fish to cook for you. We noticed we were always hosted in the homes of village chiefs, whose houses were decorated with medals and awards from the Vietnamese Communist Party. We also had meals at the teacher’s house, with the kids sent out to recess during our visit. If the hike needs to be adjusted because it’s too tough (steep climbs+++), only the local ethnic guide will know how to modify the route.

Personally, I never do organized tours except in Egypt and Nepal. I’ve been to Asia about twenty times, but for Vietnam’s ethnic groups, I did two 5-day trips with French-speaking agencies, and I didn’t regret the investment: stunning landscapes, friendly encounters, a few nights with locals, around twenty ethnic groups, and tons of photos.

It seems the government is building roads to better control the area and develop tourism, which might turn places like Sapa or Bac Ha into tourist traps where villagers only wear their traditional costumes for visitors... The mandatory helmet rule has also made many women’s bulky headdresses disappear—safety first, after all.

Check the market days when planning your route—the one in Dong Van was incredible. My favorite spots: the rice terraces of Ban Phung (La Chi ethnic group), hikes around Hoang Su Phi (Dao people in long tunics), Nghia Lo with its tea plantations (Black Thai ethnic group), the heavily visited rice terraces of La Pan Tan (Hmong people), and the Nam Hong region (Red Dao ethnic group). At the big markets, you’ll meet loads of ethnic groups in their finest outfits, arriving at dawn to sell their goods.

We easily found French-speaking agencies in Hanoi. Our guide had studied to be a French teacher and was very knowledgeable.

If you don’t go with an agency, I hope you’ll share your trip on the forum to help future visitors to Northern Vietnam. Safe travels.
gaura
GA Gaura Veteran ·
Oops! I didn’t realize your trip was in November… for the rice terraces, it’s too late—they’ll already be harvested. You want to aim for the rice harvest season, when the fields are golden and there’s activity for the harvest. Otherwise, you’ll have to see the rice terraces flooded with water.

Make sure to check ahead—rice terraces (or wheat fields after harvest) can be pretty disappointing. Plus, it gets cold quickly at higher altitudes.
gaura
AP Apilipol ·
Thank you so much for your message—it really shed light on the situation and answered our questions.

We used to travel in West Africa, where we’d plan our itinerary day by day, using public transport, enjoying total freedom, and the simplicity of connections, etc.… But here we are—we have to adapt! We’ll be arriving in Hanoi on November 3rd, and as you suggested at the end of your message, we’ll get in touch with a French-speaking agency (if you have any recommendations…). For our trip to the northern part (we were tempted by Dong Van and Meo Vac), it’ll be easier to communicate directly to stay as close as possible to our expectations… and our budget, I hope.

On the other hand, we’re also planning a little getaway to Cat Ba, hoping we can at least explore that area without a guide!

Thanks again for all this info!! Catherine
catherine

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