Recherche d'hébergement dans l'anti-Atlas au Maroc
by Bergot
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonsoir
J'envisage un second périple à vélo dans l'anti Atlas.
Y a t'il des hébergements pas trop cher s à aoulous ou à oled Berhil(après le Tizi n test vers Taroudant ou taliouine)
Même question pour igherm , en direction de tafraoute.
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses
Bonjour,
A Ouled Berhil, il y a 3 hébergements: 1 à l'entrée de la ville quand tu viens du Tizi n Test, à gauche à la station service; 1 autre dans le centre ville tu prends une rue à gauche longeant le marché : Palais Riad Hida; un dernier en quittant la ville vers Taroudant une chambre d'hôtes à droite. Je suis tjrs allé au Palais Riad Hida 350 dh en 1/2 pension en 2015, mais tu peux négocier.
Je n'ai pas testé les deux autres. De mémoire, il doit y en avoir un autre dans la rue principale à gauche, après le marché.
Cordialement
Jacky
A Ouled Berhil, il y a 3 hébergements: 1 à l'entrée de la ville quand tu viens du Tizi n Test, à gauche à la station service; 1 autre dans le centre ville tu prends une rue à gauche longeant le marché : Palais Riad Hida; un dernier en quittant la ville vers Taroudant une chambre d'hôtes à droite. Je suis tjrs allé au Palais Riad Hida 350 dh en 1/2 pension en 2015, mais tu peux négocier.
Je n'ai pas testé les deux autres. De mémoire, il doit y en avoir un autre dans la rue principale à gauche, après le marché.
Cordialement
Jacky
Ouled Berhil : hotel "la Paillasse" top top et pas cher.
j'y suis passée (et y ai dormi) en novembre.
http://chacunsonmaroc.blog4ever.com/ouled-berhel
Merci beaucoup pour ces infos.Comme je constate que vous connaissez bien la région, je me permets de vous poser une autre question :quelles sont les routes les plus intéressantes (paysages , pas trop de circulation) sachant que mon itinéraire serait à peu près le suivant. Marrakech Tizi n test igherm (en direction de taliouine) tafraoute tiznit sidi ifni guelmin aid Aissa (amtoudi) tafraoute ait Bahia Agadir puis bus pour le retour sur Marrakech . S i vous avez des hébergements intéressants sur ce parcours , je suis preneur également . Je pense effectuer ce périple entre mi avril et fin mai (18 à 20 jours ). Merci d'avance pour vos réponses et joyeuses fêtes de fin d'année
Bonjour ,
Attention à Igherm , pas grand chose , un hôtel glauque et encore . Tafraoute , en arrivant par la route d'Igherm 3 kms avant Tafraout ne loupe pas l'argannier d'Amelnne , 18€ la demi pension . Très sympa . Pour Ouled Berhil je confirme , hôtel tout neuf , hyper clean c'est ma découverte de novembre , surtout qu'il n'y avait pas grand chose dans le coin . Tiznit , l'hôtel de Paris , en arrivant au rond point , 12€ la nuit propre, wifi dans les chambres et un tres bon couscous . Entre Amtoudi et Tafraoute arrêtez vous manger quelques frites à Ifrane de l'anti Atlas , si vous avez le temps visite des ruines de l'ancien mellah . Bonnes fêtes
Attention à Igherm , pas grand chose , un hôtel glauque et encore . Tafraoute , en arrivant par la route d'Igherm 3 kms avant Tafraout ne loupe pas l'argannier d'Amelnne , 18€ la demi pension . Très sympa . Pour Ouled Berhil je confirme , hôtel tout neuf , hyper clean c'est ma découverte de novembre , surtout qu'il n'y avait pas grand chose dans le coin . Tiznit , l'hôtel de Paris , en arrivant au rond point , 12€ la nuit propre, wifi dans les chambres et un tres bon couscous . Entre Amtoudi et Tafraoute arrêtez vous manger quelques frites à Ifrane de l'anti Atlas , si vous avez le temps visite des ruines de l'ancien mellah . Bonnes fêtes
Que se vuelva la tortilla
Bonjour,
y a t'il un hebergement possible pres d'igherm en direction de tafraoute stp?
d'autre part as tu visité la vallee des Ammeln au nord de Tafraoute ?si oui , est ce que cela vaut le détour ?
D'après ma carte , il me semble que l'ifrane de l'anti atlas , que tu conseilles pour un repas frites se trouve à l'est de Bouizarkane :est ce exact?
Sais tu la distance entre Amtoudi et tafraoute (nous serons a velo )qu'on peut rejoindre , parait il , en passant par Iserbi .
L'auberge "on dirait le sud "serait fermée .Peux tu me le confirmer et si oui , y a t'il d'autres possibilités d'hebergement à Amtoudi?
Merci d'avance pour des réponses
Bonjour ,
A Igherm il y a un hôtel , on ne le trouve pas sur le net et j'ai souvenir d'un truc un peu glauque , sinon je n'ai pas souvenir d'autres hebergements dans le coin . La vallée des Ammelns , de très nombreuses visites depuis des années . On peut partir à pied derriere l'hôtel des arganiers et suivre les villages , je be m'en lasse pas .Si tu vas à Tafraout ne loupe pas les gorges d'Ait Mansour , il y a une possibilité as cher dans les gorges . Mais tout dépend de ce que tu aimes . Je n'ai pas la distance entre Amtoudi et Tafraout , mais ça fait tout de même une tirée comme on dit , de plus il y a une belle grimpette . On peut passer par Izerbi . L'auberge "on dirait le sud" est peut être fermée , mais son propriétaire Georges a ouvert une maison d'hôte à Amtoudi , tu la trouveras en tapant sur l'ami Google . Il y a sur le forum un très bon carnet de voyage d'un gars qui a fait ce trajet , et où il parle d'Amtoudi justement . En gros il a parcouru l'anti Atlas à partir d'Agadir en faisant une boucle . Essaie le moteur de recherche de VF tu devrais le retrouver , c'était vraiment bien détaillé. Ifrane de l'anti Atlas est sur la route qui descend à Amtoudi , pour les frites , je rigolais , mais c'est les meilleures que j'ai mangé et je commence à m'y connaître. Effectivement à l'est de Bouizarkane. Bonne préparation .
A Igherm il y a un hôtel , on ne le trouve pas sur le net et j'ai souvenir d'un truc un peu glauque , sinon je n'ai pas souvenir d'autres hebergements dans le coin . La vallée des Ammelns , de très nombreuses visites depuis des années . On peut partir à pied derriere l'hôtel des arganiers et suivre les villages , je be m'en lasse pas .Si tu vas à Tafraout ne loupe pas les gorges d'Ait Mansour , il y a une possibilité as cher dans les gorges . Mais tout dépend de ce que tu aimes . Je n'ai pas la distance entre Amtoudi et Tafraout , mais ça fait tout de même une tirée comme on dit , de plus il y a une belle grimpette . On peut passer par Izerbi . L'auberge "on dirait le sud" est peut être fermée , mais son propriétaire Georges a ouvert une maison d'hôte à Amtoudi , tu la trouveras en tapant sur l'ami Google . Il y a sur le forum un très bon carnet de voyage d'un gars qui a fait ce trajet , et où il parle d'Amtoudi justement . En gros il a parcouru l'anti Atlas à partir d'Agadir en faisant une boucle . Essaie le moteur de recherche de VF tu devrais le retrouver , c'était vraiment bien détaillé. Ifrane de l'anti Atlas est sur la route qui descend à Amtoudi , pour les frites , je rigolais , mais c'est les meilleures que j'ai mangé et je commence à m'y connaître. Effectivement à l'est de Bouizarkane. Bonne préparation .
Que se vuelva la tortilla
bonjour,
j'ai trouvé les coordonnées mail de cet hébergement à Amtoudi ( Tigmi Bulbul )
tout simplement : tigmibulbul@gmail.com
Rachid m'a répondu très rapidement
320 dhs / jour et par pers en Pension complète
j’ai réservé directement pour mars , je préfère ainsi quand je le peux que par booking
bon séjour à vous
capucine
si vous tapez tigmi bulbul sur tripadvisor , vous verrez des photos et lirez des commentaires qui sont tous très majoritairement élogieux
capucine
bien sûr que vous pouvez contacter Rachid , cela ne m'est pas réservé 😎
j'ai fait des recherches pour trouver ces coordonnées , je suis même arrivée à les mettre sur trip en détournant les codes 😉
vous ferez un retour de vos impressions sur cet hébergement ?
merci
capucine
Le propriétaire c'est Georges , l'ancien propriétaire de l'auberge "On dirait le Sud" .
Pour la maison d'hôte dont parle Fangui , il me semble que c'est celle dont parlait le cycliste justement .
Que se vuelva la tortilla
A velo , de Oulad berhil, j'ai deux choix possibles :
soit une étape àTalouine puisla route 106 jusqu'à Igherm
soit une étape à Taroudant(deja visitée) puis la route 109 jusqu'à igherm
J'aurais tendance à penser que la première option serait meilleure car j'ai dejà lu sur le forum que la route 106 était sympa .Qu'en pensez vous ?
A Ijoukak(tizi n test) , avez vous une auberge à me conseiller ?
Merci d'avance pour les réponses
Je suis actuellement en Andalousie , je n'ai pas la carte sous les yeux , mais j'opterai pour une étape à Taliouine , vous avez un chouette endroit pour loger c'est "espace rando" on le trouve sur le net .
A Ijoukak je vous conseille le gîte d'El Husseine , je vais essayer de vous trouver les coordonnees exactes . Si vous avez besoin de conseils , si vous souhaitez un cadre authentique c'est l'endroit rêvé . En Octobre il y avait une fille seule à vélo qui faisait le Tizi'n'Test .
Gîte Ijoukak : http://www.tigmmi-ntmazirte.com/
Que se vuelva la tortilla
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Hi everyone! :)
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
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Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
As-salamu alaykum!
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
hi there
we’re heading to Hammamet in a few months
what would you recommend visiting for a week?
best regards
Hi there,
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!