First trip to Madagascar (couple + 2 older teens). We’ve read quite a few posts and watched traveler videos, which helped us figure out what we could do in 3 weeks. We’d like to travel with a driver-guide. You’ll probably be able to help us with the overall duration... Are we being too ambitious, or is this reasonable? In this itinerary, are there any must-see places we shouldn’t miss?
Here’s our first draft:
Departure from Tana to the east via the RN2.
Stop at the Analamazoatra Reserve
RN11 to reach the Pangalanes Canal
3 or 4 days to travel south along the canal (taxi boat)
The train from Manakara to Fiana
RN7 toward Tulear
Time for a short trek in Andringitra? I’m not sure...
Isalo Park
From Tulear, head north or south by pirogue to relax somewhere
To get back to Tana and stay within our vacation time, I think we’ll need to fly...
Will we have time left for Ampefy?
We’ve been there three times and know the country well—including travel times between villages, especially along the west coast, southwest, and north.
If you want to visit Ampefy, make it your first stop. Plan for 2 days to explore from Tana and return to Tana if you have a car.
From Tana, allow 3 days to reach Vatomandry, including a visit to Analamazaotra, then 3 days of boat navigation along the Pangalane Canal. One day to get from Mananjary to Manakara. You can spend a day in Manakara or take the train to Fianarantsoa (also a full day).
From Fianarantsoa, you can visit Ranomafana National Park before heading south (one day is enough).
Plan 1 day to reach the village of Tsarasaotra, visiting the Anja Private Reserve and the area around Ambalavao.
If you want to visit Andringitra and Pic Boby, allow 3 days, plus one day for the Tsaranoro Valley, then another day to reach Isalo. Of course, 1 or 2 days for Isalo, followed by a day’s travel to Tulear and Ifaty. You should stay in Tulear if you want to go to Anakao to catch the boat the next day.
You can decide how to fill the rest of your trip.
I can recommend a great driver-guide if you need one.
It would be best to outline your itinerary from Day 1 to Day 20 so we can guide you on feasibility and must-see spots.
First off, taking the boat taxi from the Pangalanes near Tamatave to Manakara seems tricky because navigation on the Pangalanes isn’t always open.
The Manakara-Fianarantsoa train isn’t always scheduled and could disrupt the rest of your trip.
In my opinion, you should plan 3 stages:
- 1 week: East Coast: Analamazotra and the Pangalanes, then back to Tana
- 1 week: Tana/Antsirabe/Ranomafana/Manakara
- 1 week: Manakara/Fianarantsoa/Isalo/Tulear/Ifaty – with a flight back to Tana
As for Ampefy, it’s worth considering, but it might be too tight time-wise....
First off, taking the boat taxi from the Pangalanes near Tamatave to Manakara seems complicated because navigation on the Pangalanes isn’t always open.
There are no bush boats running between Tamatave and Manakara. They operate regularly between Mahanoro and Mananjary with an overnight stop in Nosy Varika. Between Mananjary and Manakara, only light canoes can pass due to water hyacinths and sandbanks. Same goes for between Vatomandry and Mahanoro.
The Manakara-Fianarantsoa train isn’t always scheduled and can disrupt the rest of the trip.
Currently, it’s suspended, and when the service is running, it’s reduced to just two days a week for passengers. According to Malagasy news, new railcars should be put into service before the tourist season, which could improve service.
In my opinion, you’ll need to plan 3 stages:
- 1 week: East Coast: Analamazotra and the Pangalanes, then return to Tana
Why do you want to go back through Antananarivo? This loop lets you avoid retracing the same route!
Hello!
Three weeks seems doable. However, there’s one unknown: the train. Will it be running? Impossible to predict right now.
Another thing: it’s feasible, but it’ll be exhausting if everything’s done by public transport. Are you planning to rent a vehicle? A private boat for the Pangalanes Canal? Public transport is fine, but it’s really tiring. And over time, it wears you out. Personally, I’d recommend finding a vehicle either in Mananjary (if the train isn’t running)—it can take you up the RN7 with a stop in Ranomafana—or arranging to be picked up in Fianarantsoa by a vehicle (if the train is running). By then, you’ll have had your fill of bush taxis from Tana to Mahanoro, then the bush boat, then another bush taxi from Mananjary to Manakara, and finally the train (all fun modes of transport but *extremely* exhausting, especially since things never go as planned: breakdowns, delays, waiting…). Switching to a vehicle where you control your stops and schedule might be a good idea after the first week or so, which will already have been pretty intense.
Budget comes into play here—an estimate of your budget and travel style will help tailor answers even better.
I’d also add that if you’re planning to visit Ranomafana, I wouldn’t necessarily stop in Andasibe/Analamazoatra, which I find less stunning and a bit repetitive.
If you spend a week and a half from Tana to Fianar via the canal, you’ll have another week and a half left for Ambalavao, then Isalo, and finally the beach. Three nights in Ambalavao are enough for Pic Boby, the Anja Reserve, and maybe an evening visit to the Ifandana Rock or the livestock market (if you’re there on a Wednesday). Two nights in Isalo are good, though you could push it to three if you want longer hikes. The rest can be for Tuléar and then the return trip.
Given what you’re planning, I think it might make sense to start from Tuléar, as others have suggested. Fly there, head to the farthest point, spend a few days swimming, then retrace the same route in reverse: a vehicle to Mananjary and the bush boat, then finish with a bush taxi (there’s an excellent premium company in Tamatave).
It’s less stressful. The downside? You’ll relax at the beach at the *start* instead of the end…
Thanks everyone for your feedback. I’m jumping in with quick reactions:
There are no bush boats running between Tamatave and Manakara. They operate regularly between Mahanoro and Mananjary with an overnight stop in Nosy Varika. Between Mananjary and Manakara, only light canoes can pass due to water hyacinths and sandbanks. Same goes for between Vatomandry and Mahanoro.
Oh, I hadn’t specified at this stage, but I wasn’t thinking of doing the whole route. I actually checked a blog by someone who did it, and it was indeed between Mahanoro and Mananjary. So no issue there.
The Manakara–Fianarantsoa train isn’t always on schedule and can disrupt the rest of your trip.
Worth keeping an eye on before the trip. Worst case, can we also go back by car?
Another thing: it’s doable, but it’ll be exhausting if you’re using only public transport.
Yep, I mentioned that in my post. We’d like to hire a driver-guide for the entire route. But I don’t know the "norms" of the profession. For example, can I ask them to drop us off at the canal, then meet us further along after 3 days, then take us to the train departure, then pick us up at the train’s arrival, etc.? I imagine they’re super flexible, but in practice, not everything’s possible.
I’d add that if you’re planning Ranomafana, I wouldn’t necessarily stop at Andasibe/Analamazoatra, which I find less stunning. And a bit "repetitive."
Ah, that was Bernard’s suggestion—I hadn’t planned on it myself since it means going back up the N7.
With a week and a half from Tana to Fianar via the canal, you’ll have another week and a half left for Ambalavao, then Isalo, and finally the beach. Three nights in Ambalavao are enough for Pic Boby and, for example, Parc de l’Anja, plus a short evening trip to the Ifandana Rock or the livestock market (if you’re there on a Wednesday). Two nights in Isalo are fine, though you could push it to three if you want longer hikes. The rest can be for Tuléar and then the return trip.
Parc de l’Anja? Yeah, that could be interesting to soak in the landscapes of that region if we can’t do Boby. Speaking of which, I might’ve been dreaming in color about the trek. We don’t want to bring camping gear, so is there an agency in the area that can organize the trek for us, handling everything?
I think, as has been mentioned before and given what you’re considering, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to start from Tuléar. Fly there, head to the farthest point, spend a few days swimming, then retrace the same route in reverse. A vehicle to Mananjary and the bush boat, then finish with a bush taxi (there’s an excellent premium company in Tamatave).
It’s less stressful. The downside is you chill at the beach at the start, not the end...
Okay, worth considering. Though I don’t see why it’s less stressful deep down...
Ampefy seems a bit tough to fit in.
I agree. Unless the 3-day trek doesn’t happen and we haven’t compensated elsewhere.
Yes, I mentioned it in my post. We’d like to use a driver-guide for the entire trip. But I’m not familiar with how the profession works. For example, can I ask him to drop us off at the canal, then pick us up further along after 3 days, then leave us at the train station, then collect us when the train arrives, etc.? I imagine they’re very flexible, but in practice, not everything is doable.
No problem at all—driver-guides are used to dropping clients off at one spot and picking them up at another, even 3 days later.
So something to keep an eye on before the trip. Worst case, can we just drive back instead?
Yes, of course, and it’s a road that isn’t too bad. If the train isn’t running, you might wonder whether it’s worth going all the way to Manakara. The main activity there is a canoe trip on the canal. In that case, you could spend the day in Mananjary or somewhere else instead.
Yes, of course, and it's a road that isn't bad. In case the train isn't running, the question arises whether it's worth going all the way to Manakara. The main activity offered in this town is a canoe trip on the canal. In that case, the day could be spent in Mananjary, for example, or elsewhere.
I’d add that if you’re planning to visit Ranomafana, I wouldn’t necessarily stop at Andasibe/Analamazoatra, which I find less beautiful. And a bit of a "repeat."
If you had to drive back from Manakara by car instead of taking the train because the days don’t align or it’s not running, then yes, this park would be on the way (though from Fiana, it’s not that far either). Your comparison of the two parks seems pretty subjective—hard to explain—or do you have details on why you prefer one?
You can visit the Ampéfy lakes region in a day.
If you're planning to fly from Tuléar to Tananarive, it's wise to schedule your return 48 hours before your international departure from Madagascar (in case of domestic flight cancellations). You can visit Ampefy on the second-to-last day or even the last day if your flight leaves late in the day.
Thanks to your help (though I might still be off on some points), here’s a draft itinerary:
D1: Departure from Montreal
D2: Arrival in Tana (at 3:35 PM)
D3: Departure east via RN2
D5: Arrival in Mahanoro
D6: Bush boat on the Pangalanes Canal
D8: Arrival in Mananjary
D9: Drive to Manakara
D10: Possible train available that day to Fianarantsoa (otherwise, the return trip will be from Mananjary to Fiana with Ranomafana Park)
D11: Toward Ambalavao (Anja Reserve + another spot like Ifandana Rock?)
D12-13: Trek in the region
D14: Road to Isalo
D15: Isalo Park
D16: Toward Tulear or even Ifaty
D17-19: Beach time
D20: Tulear -> Tana by plane
D21: Ampefy (buffer day if the previous flight is missed)
D22: Leaving Madagascar (at 4:25 PM)
D23: Arrival in Montreal
(Maybe add a rest day at the very start in Tana... We’ll still have a 7-hour time difference anyway)
It's a well-balanced trip: part highlands with primary forest, part east and southeast, crossing the Bara region, and a western section. Sightseeing, wildlife, and flora—you'll come back with a great sense of what Madagascar is all about. It's a packed 3 weeks in a country where it's not always easy to plan everything in advance.
The best approach is to submit your itinerary to a reliable driver-guide, keeping in mind that Malagasy people rarely say no, even if it might be difficult later. But it seems doable.
July/August is still quite far off—you'll likely get other opinions.
Hi there,
It’s a bit less stressful to take the flight at the start because with delays and cancellations, and since the real challenge is the final return flight—which you can’t miss—I’d rather deal with those uncertainties at the beginning of the trip than at the end.
Once was enough to teach me that!
Otherwise, with a driver-guide, no problem. They’ll drop you off and pick you up. As long as their days and fuel are paid for, it’s all good for them. No worries on that front.
In my opinion, the Ranomafana site is much more beautiful than Analamazaotra—a steep gorge that opens up, small mountains covered in forest, plenty of rivers and water, a larger and slightly wilder forest. That’s why. Plus, there are hot springs in Ranomafana. To be honest, though, I find the visits to both parks a bit disappointing: lemurs are pretty easy to spot, but there are usually a lot of people, and the forest itself isn’t all that impressive.
As for the itinerary, I’ve got no complaints—it seems well put together and should work for 3 weeks without feeling rushed. The train is a bit of an unknown, but it won’t change much in the end.
In Fianarantsoa, before heading to Ranomafana, take a little stroll through the upper town—beautiful houses and a well-preserved old quarter, giving you a taste of what Malagasy towns were like in centuries past.
Andringitra: from what I remember, you’ll just need good sleeping bags and mid-mountain hiking shoes. Check with your driver-guide to see if they can arrange it, or else with agencies in Fianarantsoa or Ambalavao (Sudmadatrek probably offers it, but it’ll likely be at a pretty high price). Otherwise, you could also do some rural tourism near Ambohimahamasina, not far from Ambalavao, as an alternative. Or stay in the Tsaranoro Valley—it’s gorgeous—and skip Pic Boby; there are plenty of other hikes to do there too.
Currently, it's out of service, and when the connection is available, it's been significantly reduced to just two days a week for passengers.
If we believe the Malagasy press, new locomotives should be put into service before the tourist season. Service could be improved.
An indirect acquaintance living in Tana tells me that a viaduct is under repair and it’s expected to take 5 to 6 months, so I shouldn’t count on the train being available for my trip...
Just one thing that stands out to me:
You mentioned wanting to travel with a driver-guide for the entire trip.
But it’s not at all certain they’ll be able to follow the track between Manahoro and Mananjary, which is in really bad condition. That would force them to return to Tana, adding a quick 1,000 km to your budget—plus fuel... At that point, you could take a *taxi-brousse* from Tana to Manahoro since you’re going directly, and also get a taste of the charm of local transport—a different experience and vibe!
Then you’d pick up your driver in Mananjary for the rest of the route.
For Andringitra, you don’t need any gear—no camping or sleeping equipment will be provided.
Good evening,
I also think that budget-wise, it would be wiser to pick up a rental vehicle after the bush taxi and therefore in Mananjary. Otherwise, it’s clear that it’s going to be a significant cost without even using it and just for pick-up.
But if we’re willing to pay for that, it’s definitely doable, of course.
Good evening,
I also think that budget-wise, it would be wiser to pick up a rental vehicle after the bush taxi and thus in Mananjary. Otherwise, it’s clear that it’ll be a significant cost for not using it and just getting picked up.
But if you’re willing to pay for it, it’s definitely doable, of course.
This is something to look into with an association of driver-guides who have several vehicles.
For this route, a 4x4 would only be necessary on the Mahanoro/Mananjary stretch. And even then, only if it’s passable—which isn’t certain, since in June and July, it rains quite a bit at night in that region.
Another type of vehicle clearly couldn’t handle it, but it would be much more budget-friendly in terms of rental and fuel. You can expect a difference of at least 500 € over 20 days.
This should be planned with an association of driver-guides that has several vehicles.
For this route, a 4x4 would only be necessary on the Mahanoro/Mananjary section. And even then, it’s not guaranteed to be passable—this region gets quite a bit of rain at night in June and July.
Another type of vehicle clearly wouldn’t be able to handle it but would be much more budget-friendly for both rental and fuel. You can expect a difference of at least 500 € over 20 days.
Thanks to everyone for your thoughts. Now comes the question of choosing the right driver or association. Of course, I can find email addresses on blogs or discussions here, but it’s always a bit hit-or-miss. Is there an essential association to consider? Or well-regarded agencies that also offer driver-guides? In short, where should I start? (PS: I’m not responding to those who’ve already contacted me privately to offer their services—I have no way of verifying who they are.)
Another question about Tulear—basically, "north or south"? A previously mentioned indirect contact told me I’d be better off going to Anakao, saying it’s less mass tourism than Ifaty. But when I mentioned the north, I was thinking of getting lost beyond Mangily. What are your experiences? Is it too far? Our goal is to relax but also enjoy a beautiful spot, do a bit of sailing/fishing with locals, and avoid crowds. We won’t have gear like masks/snorkels/fins, so it might be interesting to borrow some on-site.
Hi Brnard,
I’d really appreciate it if you could recommend a good driver-guide for my Madagascar trip via the RN7, please.
Thanks,
Xavier
xavier.bellavoine.perso@gmail.com
Hello,
We’ve been there three times and know the country well, including travel times between villages, especially the west coast, southwest, and north.
If you want to visit Ampefy, do it first. Plan for 2 days to explore from Tana and return to Tana if you have a car.
Allow 3 days from Tana to Vatomandry, visiting Analamazaotra, then 3 days of boat navigation on the Pangalane Canal. One day to get from Mananjary to Manakara. You can spend a day in Manakara or take the train to Fianarantsoa (also a full day).
From Fianarantsoa, you can visit Ranomafana National Park before heading south (one day is enough).
Plan 1 day to reach the village of Tsarasaotra, visiting the private Anja Reserve and the area around Ambalavao.
If you want to visit Andringitra and Pic Boby, allow 3 days, plus one day for the Tsaranoro Valley, then another day to reach the village of Isalo. Of course, 1 or 2 days for Isalo, then a full day’s drive to Tulear and Ifaty. You should stay in Tulear if you want to go to Anakao to catch the boat the next day.
It’s up to you to decide the rest of your stay.
I can recommend a good driver-guide if you need one.
Départ prévu pour Madagascar en Février pour 1 mois, saison des pluies oblige nous privilegerons la cote ouest. Est-il envisageable de prendre la N7 pour…
Voyager à petits prix › Madagascar / Maurice / Réunion · 18 replies
Nous aimerions faire un périple, Madagascar, Réunion et Maurice. Nous recherchons des hébergements pas cher. Location, ou chez l habitant. Si vous pouvez nous…
Vais en juin sur l'ile Sainte Marie (une semaine)que pouvez vous me conseiller comme hotel pour un couple (50 60 Ans)?joli si possible sur la plage ;maximum 40…
Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
