J’ai effectué ce trek du camp de base de l’Everest par les 3 cols au mois de novembre 2019 avec un pote, sans guide ni porteur et suite à la réussite de cette initiative, je souhaite partager ici mon expérience et synthétisé un peu les informations. Merci encore à Fabgreg et à Dniorthe pour leurs conseils avant départ. Je ne peux que conseiller le sens anti horaire, il est beaucoup plus simple, les ascensions du Kongma La et et du Renjo La en sens horaire me semblent beaucoup plus compliqués.
Condition de réalisation : Nous étions dans la grosse saison touristique mais au final, la très grande majorité des trekkeurs et des groupes se concentrent sur la voie menant au Base camp, sur les chemins des 3 passes, nous étions assez tranquilles. La météo était parfaite, ciel bleu jusqu’à 15h généralement, nuit à 17H30. Sans guide ni porteurs mais il faut vraiment en vouloir pour se perdre. Nos sacs pesaient 12-14 kg.
Transport : Nous avons effectué le trajet aller en avion, les compagnies sont nombreuses (Sita air, Summit Air, Tara air…), nous avions réservé pour un départ de Katmandou mais en 2019 les vols sont en très grande majorité déplacés à Ramechhap (4-5h de trajet depuis KTM). Les compagnies proposent des navettes au départ de KTM. Pour le trajet retour, nous sommes descendus jusqu’à Phaplu en marchant, il faut compter deux jours de marche depuis Lukla. Nouveauté 2019 : la piste carrossable va maintenant jusqu’à Bupsa, soit un village situé à une journée de marche de Lukla, il faut prendre des Jeep depuis Salleri/Phaplu puis il me semble en prendre une deuxième jusqu’à Bupsa pour envirion 2000R les deux. L’objectif du gouvernement népalais dans l’optique du « Népal 2020 » est d’avoir la piste carrossable jusqu’à Lukla pour 2020.
Budget : Le prix moyen d’une lodge est de 500 Roupies (par chambre avec deux lits soit 250R par personne). Les prix des lodges varient sans vraiment de logique : 1000R à Namche (à négocier discrètement avec les hôtes pour faire baisser à 500R), gratuit à Monjo, Surke, Pangboche…700R à Lobuche et Garok Shep, 200 à Gokkyo. Nous avons pu avoir la chambre gratuite à certains endroits (en prenant le dîner et le petit déjeuner dans la lodge). De toutes façon, un message indique que si vous ne prenez pas le diner dans la lodge, vous serez chargés de 3000R supplémentaires ! Les couvertures sont fournies et suffisent dans toutes les lodges. En revanche les prix de la nourriture et des services augmentent bien avec l’altitude, de 400R le Dhal Bat à Monjo, il monte jusqu’à 800R à Garok Shep. Les douches chaudes entre 500R et 1000 R, la recharge électrique de 100R à Namche à 600R à Lobuche. Un budget de 450 € par personne est confortable.
Infos générales : Pour le wifi, si vous ne pouvez pas vous en passer, prenez la carte EverestLink dès Namche à 2000R, elle fonctionnera tout le voyage, il s’agit d’un code à rentrer à chaque connexion Wifi sur une borne Everst link que l’on retrouve dans chaque village du trek. Permis : Plus besoin de permis, nous avons payé 3000R à Lukla et 2000R à Monjo avant l’entrée du parc. Pour les micro crampons vous trouverez ce qu’il faut pour 1500R à Namche (nous les avons revendus au même vendeur lors de notre retour).
Itinéraire : Nous avons marché 17j et avons effectué des marches d’acclimatations ici et là afin de ne pas subir le MAM. Ce fut très efficace, nous n’avons eu aucun symptôme ni maux de tête et de très bonnes nuits.
Jour 1 : Lukla (2800m) – Monjo (2835m) : 5h00. L’étape monte et descend sans grandes difficultés, des dizaines de lodges et magasins d’équipements de trek sur votre route, des distributeurs de billets…
Jour 2 : Monjo (2835m) – Namche (3440m) + marche d’acclimatation à Kumjung (3800m) : 6h00. La montée vers Namche dure 3h00 et on monte ensuite jusqu’à 3800 m en allant à Khumjung, puis redescente vers Namche, il faut 3h A/R.
Jour 3 : Namche (3440m) – Pangboche (3930m) : 6h00. Il faut compter 4h30 jusqu’à Tangboche puis 1h30 de plus pour rejoindre Pangboche.
Jour 4 : Depuis Pangboche (3930m) : A/R jusqu’au camp de base de l’Ama Dablam (4600m) : 4h30. 2h30 d’ascension jusqu’à 4600m où se trouve le camp de base, vous pouvez pousser un peu plus haut pour atteindre les 5000M.
Jour 5 : Pangboche (3930m) – Dingboche (4360m) + A/R au Nangkar Tshang (5650m) : 8H00. Jusqu’à Dingboche comptez 2h30 puis l’ascension jusqu’au sommet est longue 3h00 mais très bonne marche pour s’acclimater.
Jour 6 : Dingboche (4360m) – Chukung (4730m) + A/R au camp de base de l’Island Peak (4900m) : 8H00. Il faut 2h30 jusqu’à Chukung puis route jusqu’au camp de base, facile mais longue.
Jour 7 : Chukung (4360m) – Lobuche (4940m) par la Kongma La pass (5550m) : 8h00. Vous pouvez faire une journée de plus à Chukung et monter au Chukung Ri, nous avons fait le choix de tenter direct le col. Il faut compter sur 4h00 de montée jusqu’au sommet, c’est long et difficile puis 4h de descente entre pierrier et glacier.
Jour 8 : Lobuche (4940m) – Gorakshep (5190m) + A/R au camp de base : 6H00. Chemin très fréquenté sans grosses difficultés, de Gorakshep il faut 2h00 pour aller au BC.
Jour 9 : A/R Kala Patthar (5400m) + Gorakshep (5190m) – Dzongla (4840m) : 7h00. L’ascension du KP nous a pris 1h30 puis 1h00 pour redescendre. Ensuite il faut 2H00 jusqu’à Lobuche et encore 2h30 jusqu’à Dzongla.
Jour 10 : Dzongla (4840m) – Gokyo (4790m) via le Cho La Pass (5420m) : 8h30. Nous avons pris 3h00 pour arriver au sommet du col, 3H00 de plus pour arriver à Dragnag et enfin 2h30 pour traverser le glacier et arriver à Gokyo. Le passage sur le glacier fut très simple, il est court (30m), il n'y a qu'un chemin et avec des micro crampons, il n’y a aucun danger.
Jour 11 : Gokyo (4790m), lac 4 + Gokyo Ri (5400m) : 4h30. Il faut 2h00 A/R pour voir le 4ème lac puis nous avons pris 1h30 pour grimper au sommet du Gokyo Ri.
Jour 12 : Gokyo (4790m) – Marulung (4210m) via le Renjo La Pass (5360m) : 7h00. Il faut 3h00 pour arriver au sommet, 3h00 pour descendre à Lumde et moins d’une heure pour arriver au moins fréquenté mais très agréable village de Marulung.
Jour 13 : Marulung (4210m) – Namche (3440m) : 5h00.
Jour 14 : Namche (3440m) – Surke (2290m) : 7H00.
Jour 15 : Surke (2290m) – KhariKhola (1985m) : 7h00. Journée longue avec du dénivelé positif au programme avant de finir très bas.
Jour 16 : Kharikhola (1985m) – Ringmu (2720m) : 7H00. Journée très difficile avec beaucoup de dénivelé, comptez 6h00 d’ascension.
Jour 17 : Ringmu (2720m) – Phaplu (2469m) : 3H00.
Jour 18 : Retour en bus (1100R) ou jeep (1500R), très long (13h) jusqu’à KTM.
Compte-rendu intéressant, cela pourra rassurer certains candidats à venir.
Jour 16 : Kharikhola (1985m) – Ringmu (2720m) : 7H00. Journée très difficile avec beaucoup de dénivelé, comptez 6h00 d’ascension.
A voir ces seules altitudes, cela semble simple, mais il faut d'abord descendre jusqu'à un pont sur la Dudh Kosi, puis remonter jusqu'au col Taksindu La, un peu au-dessus de 3000 m. D'où le "très difficile".
Dans l'autre sens, mon étape Phuleli (juste en aval de Nunthala) -> Paiya (en amont de Karikhola) s'était révélée la plus éraintante de mon trek incluant les 3 cols.
Plus encore que les altitudes, et même les altitudes départ / arrivée, ce sont les dénivelés cumulés quotidiens qui marquent la difficulté de l'étape. D'où l'intérêt de consulter des traces gps, comme celles publiées sur wikiloc.
Jour 9 : A/R Kala Patthar (5400m) + Gorakshep (5190m) – Dzongla (4840m)
Dzongla s'écrit en fait Dzonglha, "lha" signifiant "divinité" en sherpa / tibétain, et non "la" comme col. De même que la montagne Khumbilha dominant Kumjung, demeure supposée de la divinité tutélaire du Khumbu. Dans les translittérations latines des langues nepali et tibétaine, les "h" correspondent à des expirations. Idem pour Phaplu.
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
Merci beaucoup Romain pour ce retour complet!
Je vais faire ce trek sans guide et sans porteur du 23 décembre en 9 janvier, alors ca m'est très utile!
Qu'as-tu pensé de ce trek? ( impressions, beauté, difficulté etc....)?
Je ne peux que conseiller le sens anti horaire, il est beaucoup plus simple, les ascensions du Kongma La et du Renjo La en sens horaire me semblent beaucoup plus compliqués.
Un autre élément important : dans le sens anti-horaire (Est vers Ouest), on peut monter très progressivement en altitude jusqu'à 4730 m (Chhukhung), alors que dans l'autre sens, Lumde n'est qu'à 4360 m. De plus, avant Chhukhung, le circuit présente plusieurs escapades en haute-altitude favorisant l'acclimatation à l'altitude, alors que les environs de Lumde sont peu attractifs.
Dernier détail : le matin, la montée vers le col se fait au soleil, alors que l'on reste dans l'ombre si on vient de l'Ouest. Cela a son impact sur la température subie et sur l'état du sentier (risque de verglas). Au détriment néanmoins d'avoir le paysage le plus marquant dans le dos (surtout pour le Renjo La), il faut penser à se retourner !
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
C'est une super expérience, difficile par moment notamment dans les ascensions des 3 cols mais rien d'insurmontable. Il fait très froid le matin, les mains sont en souffrance en attendant le soleil. Au mois de décembre tu risques d'avoir très froid...mais moins de monde sur les chemins !
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Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands.
Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili.
Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?)
There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4.
If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit.
if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips.
Here are my questions:
- Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages)
- I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share!
Yann
I’m a 56-year-old man who’s done several treks in Nepal and elsewhere. Also passionate about photography.
I’m looking for one or more people to form a group for a trek in Nepal. The trek is the Annapurna and Manaslu circuit (24 days), including a stop at Tilicho Lake. I’ve got a great itinerary and the local company seems solid. The price is around $1600.
I’ll be in Nepal from April 5 to May 12, 2026, so the trek would need to happen within those dates.
