Itinerary in the works for 3 weeks in southern Chile and Argentina
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
AB
Hi there,

Three years after exploring northern Argentina and Chile, my two travel buddies and I want to discover the southern part of these two countries. We’re traveling on a budget, backpacker-style, favoring public transport and modest accommodations, but we don’t hesitate to splurge a little when it’s worth it. The classic spots that have been fueling our dreams: Bariloche, the lakes, Chiloé, El Chaltén, Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, El Calafate, Fitz Roy, Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego, and wrapping up in Valparaíso. We’ll take a round-trip flight to Santiago, then I’m thinking of a one-way flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas. From there, we’ll explore and do several day hikes in the south, including Ushuaia and, if possible, Tierra del Fuego. Then we’ll head back north by bus to Bariloche and the lakes, followed by Chiloé, then a bus to Santiago and Valparaíso. Based on your experience, could you help me figure out the best way to structure this trip and maybe suggest some ideas? Thanks in advance. Didier
Didier
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

Three weeks just isn't enough time. Add another one to two weeks, or scale back your plans.

Ushuaia and, if possible, Tierra del Fuego. Then take a bus back up to Bariloche

That’s about 3 to 4 days.

FYI, there’s a flight from Calafate to Bariloche 3 times a week that could save you time if you reversed your route in the far south. However, there are no direct flights between Ushuaia, Punta Arenas, or Río Gallegos and Bariloche.

Ancud on Chiloé

Border on the road between Porvenir and Río Grande

Cerro Fitzroy

Lighthouse on the Beagle Channel (departing from Ushuaia)
MU Musiquemusic ·
Hello

I agree with the reply about your Chile/Argentina travel plans. It seems a bit tight time-wise to really enjoy the countries and the stunning landscapes in those regions. We did roughly the same route using buses—Bariloche, El Calafate, El Chaltén—a long ride, then Ushuaia. If you can spare more time, it’s worth it. Happy trails
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

using the buses, especially Bariloche to El Calafate

How many hours by bus between the two? Via the east coast (Comodoro Rivadavia and Río Gallegos) or by a more direct route?
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Okay, thanks. I might be able to add 3 more days, which would make it 24 days total on site. So I’ll fly directly from Santiago to the south and from Calafate to Bariloche. The far south is the part that’s giving me trouble—it seems complicated to organize, right? If we don’t have enough time, maybe we could skip Tierra del Fuego. Thanks.
Didier
MU Musiquemusic ·
Hi there! We did Bariloche to El Calafate by bus, taking a mostly "west" route—basically Route 40. That’s about 27 hours of bus time, with quite a few stops—90% of passengers get off at El Chaltén for Fitz Roy. We went there after El Calafate. Really beautiful ride. Happy trails. PS: The farther south you go, the trickier it gets to leave Ushuaia. Personal experience.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I can maybe add 3 days,

Do it—it’ll always be better than nothing!

It’s the far south that’s giving me trouble; it seems complicated to organize, right?

It’s no more complicated to organize than the rest: from the port of Punta Arenas, ferry + bus to Río Grande + bus to Ushuaia. I even think there are now buses that do the full Porvenir–Ushuaia route (still via Río Grande, at least ten hours of bus total). Same route for the return, or you could take a daily Ushuaia–El Calafate flight if you’ve already visited Torres del Paine National Park.

If we don’t have enough time, maybe we should skip Tierra del Fuego.

If by Tierra del Fuego you mean Ushuaia, you’d miss out on sailing those “mythic” names (in my opinion)—the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel.

Chiloé is a really nice island (I’ve been there once on each of my two trips), but it’s the one I’d “sacrifice” in your itinerary. You could save it for a future trip that also includes the beautiful Chilean Lake District. If you skip Chiloé: travel from Bariloche to Puerto Varas, then take an overnight bus to Santiago (check if there are direct ones to Valparaíso) or a Bariloche–Santiago flight 3 times a week.
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Thanks Thierry for all this great info. I just need to put together a rough itinerary now. I’ll take your experience into account and send it to you for approval. I also saw on a blog that you can fly into Ushuaia and out of Santiago. Of course, it’s more expensive and a bit of a hassle, but otherwise, you’d have to take a Santiago-Ushuaia flight anyway.
Didier
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Thanks Lionel for your tips. I think we’ll take an El Calafate–Bariloche flight if we can, to skip the 27-hour bus ride!
Didier
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I also saw on a blog that you can take a one-way to Ushuaia and return from Santiago.

If you're talking about flights, this is called an "open jaw" ticket (arriving in one city and returning from another). It’s possible for almost any destination on the planet, as long as the two flights are with the same airline or with different airlines that have a commercial partnership.

Generally, the price isn’t the cost of a one-way plus a return ticket but rather the price of a round-trip to the arrival city plus the price of a round-trip to the return city, all divided by two. You shouldn’t book the segments separately. Few flight search engines offer the open jaw option.

I could see Aerolíneas Argentinas offering you an open jaw like Paris/Buenos Aires/Ushuaia/surface/Santiago/Buenos Aires/Paris. The layovers in B.A. would just be a few hours on the same day. For the "surface" part, you’d be free to buy additional flights if you want. If Iberia has a partnership with Aerolíneas Argentinas, you might be able to replace Paris with Bordeaux or Toulouse (but that’d mean two layovers instead of one, and Iberia doesn’t have the best reputation for baggage handling...). In B.A., not all domestic flights leave from the international airport.
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Actually, I know what an open jaw is—it’s basically a multi-destination ticket. Well, I looked into it, and it’s not worth it. After a lot of research, the best option turns out to be: round-trip Toulouse - Santiago + Santiago - Punta Arenas + Calafate - Bariloche. And with 24 days on the ground, it’s doable.
Didier
SO Songsam Veteran ·
+ Santiago - Punta Arenas + Calafate - Bariloche. And with 24 days on site, it's doable.

What would you cut from the original wish list?
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Either the lakes above Bariloche, or Chiloé, or nothing—flights save so much time.
Didier
SO Songsam Veteran ·
The SCL-Pta. Arenas flight was already planned, and the one from Calafate to Bariloche will only save you one night. Even with 24 days and skipping Chiloé, it'll be a marathon.
AB Abélios Veteran ·
Ok d'accord. Ce sont les transports qui font perdre beaucoup de temps, car sinon c'est très réalisable. 10 jours dans le sud, 4-5 jours autour de Bariloche, 3-4 jours à Chiloe et 2 journées à Valparaiso. Tout dépend ce qu'on recherche dans le voyage. Pour nous, pas de visite de musée, de villes (sauf Valparaiso, mais rapide). Ce qui nous intéresse ce sont kes paysages. Donc priorité à : Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, Fritz Roy et autour d'Ushuaia. Pas question pour autant de faire tous les treks. A Bariloche pareil, 2 ou 3 treks nous suffiront. Pour comparaison, nous revenons d'Afrique du Sud. Beaucoup de gens disaient qu'il faut un minimum de 3 jours pour visiter le parc Kruger. Au bout d'une journée et demie nous avions à peu près vu tous les animaux, nous sommes partis. Idem pour les autres parcs. Donc nous ferons en sorte de voir les spots principaux, car de toutes façons nous ne pourrons pas rester plus longtemps. Ce qu'il nous faut c'est trouver comment articuler notre périple dans le sud de la façon la plus logique. Et c'est çà qui me préoccupe, car les endroits à visiter sont à cheval sur les 2 pays et j'avoue que çà paraît compliqué de trouver le bon cheminement. En tous cas merci pour vos précieux conseils, qui ont été importants.
Didier
SO Songsam Veteran ·
10 jours dans le sud (...) Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, Fritz Roy et autour d'Ushuaia. Pas question pour autant de faire tous les treks.

J'ai beau tourner le problème dans tous les sens, je n'arrive à rien qui fasse moins de 12 nuits, et ce en courant (seulement 2 jours pleins à Ushuaia par ex.). J'ai aussi essayé en incluant un vol Ushuaia-Calafate mais finalement ça ne résout pas le problème, on reste sur 12 nuits minimum.

Pour nous, pas de visite de (...) villes

Visite ou pas visite, il y en a pourtant certaines où tu devras bien passer une ou plusieurs nuits de transit car pas le choix, le meilleur exemple dans le sud étant Punta Arenas, et plus au nord Puerto Varas ou Puerto Montt avant de descendre à Chiloe...

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