Nous sommes 2, nous arrivons à Madagascar le Jeudi 15 octobre pour un séjour de 2 semaines. Nous souhaitons faire la RN7, Tananarive-fianarantsoa, puis le train jusqu’à Manakara. La descente en 1 seule traite (bus type madasmiles ou gasy car bus), puis remonter tranquillement sur le reste du temps.
Nous avons parcouru les forums, pris des renseignements diverses à droite et à gauche ...
Il nous reste quelques interrogations basiques …
Que doit-on mettre dans notre sac ( vêtements chauds ? ou shorts ? ) ?
Pour ce 1er trajet direct, c’est bien possible ? Y a t-il un bus ( ou autres ) qui fait tana-manakara d’une seule traite ?
Des conseils, adresses, visites à ne pas manquer ?
Je te conseille de consulter tout les posts qui ont été mis sur ce forum, tu trouveras certainement des choses intêressantes pour ton parcours.
Attention, il n'y a pas des départs tous les jours pour le train FCE de Fianare à Manakara.
De plus, tu ne nous dis pas jusqu'où tu as l'intention de vouloir descendre le long de la N7!!!!!!!!🤪
Je vais rester fidèle à ce que je dis tout le temps, Madagaascar est un pays qu'il faut visiter mora mora c'est à dire tranquille et en 15 jours si tu veux profiter du pays et des malgaches et bien tu ne pourras pas faire grand chose et c'est franchement dommage de venir dans ce pays, en s'imposant une cadence d'enfer, de plus les taxi brousse ne partent que lorsqu'ils sont plein, alors, l'attente peu être très longue et le départ en fin de matinée ou d'après midi.
De plus tout le long de cette nationale 7, il y a bcp de choses à visiter, tout d'abord à Antsirabé et ces environs mais aussi pareil vers Fianare et Ambositra.
A Manakara, il faut une journée pour le train et une autre pour une ballade sur le Canal des Pangalanes et une aussi pour la réserve de Ranamafana.
Voila en gros......!😎
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Nous avons bien fouillé dans les forums, et je viens de trouver les informations météorologiques. Il fait chaud à cette période n'est-ce pas ?
Pour notre trajet, nous voulions descendre d'une traite à manakara, dans la mesure du possible ... Pour y rester 2 jours, prendre le train ... 1 ou 2 journées à Fianarantsoa ... 3 jours à Ambositra et alentours puis 3 jours à Antsirabe et alentours.
Nous essayons au maximum de tenir compte du rythme de vie de mada, nous ne voulons pas nous presser ... Cet itinéraire parait-il correct ?
La descente Tana-manakara d'une traite est-elle envisageable ?
En octobre, c'est le printemps dans la zone. Plein de fleurs, température agréable et un temps assez sec, du moins c'est le temps le plus probable. Pas de cyclone.
Attention, petite laine conseillée pour les hautes plaines le soir et le matin au réveil.
Prévois aussi un traitement anti-paludéen à suivre scrupuleusement pendant et après le séjour. Et les médicaments habituels pour traiter les problèmes digestifs qui peuvent survenir éventuellement, et aussi désinfectant...etc...
Pour le climat mon prédecesseur t'a bien répondu donc petite laine pour le soir sur les haut plateaux.
Dommage d'essayer de faire Tana Manakara d'une traite, as tu vu tout ce qu'il y a à voir sur cette route Antsirabé et Ambositra avec les villages Zafimaniry et la réserve de Ranamafana.
Voila...............!😉
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Petite précision : Nous voulons le faire d'une traite à l'aller pour remonter tranquillement ! et profiter de toutes les belles régions des hautes terres !
Le train Manakara / fiana
La région "ambositra"
La région "Antsirabe"
Si vous avez des adresses bien sympa pour manger, dormir ... elles sont les bienvenues ! Merci encore
Petite précision, donc, tu ne fais pas Ranomafana nous sommes d'accord!!!!!!!🤪
Autre chose, je ne sais pas sincèrement si le trajet direct Tana Manakara existe mais je peux le savoir ma compagne est sur place à Tana et peut me le confirmer mais ce que je peux te dire c'est que nous, nous n'avions fait que le trajet Ranomafana Tana de nuit et c'était très long et voir dangereux de nuit.
Le taxi brousse de nuit n'est pas recommander à Mada surtout en cette période de troubles.
Il faut suivre aussi l'évolution politique du pays qui est loin d'etre stable, une accalmie jusqu'au 6 octobre est sur mais après wait and see!!!!!!!! Cela ne veut pas dire qu'il y aura des pbls surtout en province mais dans la capitale, il pourra y en avoir.😕
Pas d'affolement, personnellement, je dois partir en novembre et j'y suis allé durant une période plus chaude et nous n'avons rien ressenti.
D'ailleurs un ami à moi, viens de partir dimanche pour Tana et je viens d'avoir des nouvelles et il est parti rejoindre Majunga.
Amicalement😉
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Bonjour,
Pour manger à Fianar, au "Panda", pour dormir le Zoma hotel est bien.
A Antsirabe, manger à L'Arche, ou chez Jenny, ou au Pousse-Pousse. Pour dormir le GreenPark est mon préféré.
Cordialement,
Tapayo
Sans lire les autres réponses; descendre d'une traite c'est de la folie et c'est dommage.
Tana-Fiana; c'est au moins 10h de taxi brousse; peut être un peu moins en bus touristique type madasmile.
Le train FCE, ça n'est pas tous les jours et c'est entre 8 et 10h de train (moi j'avais mis 9h30 sans aléas).
De manakara, c'est long pour remonter ensuite; 2 chemins soit Manakara-Fiana-Tana, soit Manakara-Mananjary-Tana; dans les 2 cas minimum 2 jours de trajets.
Tout ça c'est hors aléas et crévant.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ok j'avais pas lu la suite; 2 jours à fiana; c'est bien; vieille ville très bien. Prévoir plus si tu veux faire un tour à Ranomafana et ambavalao.
2 à 3 jours antsirabé; ok (hôtel chez billy, très bien)
Perso je rajouterai 1j à Ambositra (hôtel mania bien) qui est super; ambositra même et autour (villages zafimaniry).
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Le trajet Tana : Manakara (650km) est faisable d’une traite, minimum 12 heures mais exclusivement de nuit. La situation actuelle ne permet pas de te le conseiller.
Il semble plus raisonnable de faire de jour, Tana/ Fianarantsoa (entre 8 et 10 h) et de prendre le train par la suite pour Manakara.
Les chambres « des Flamboyants » à Manakara, me semblent d’un excellent rapport qualité prix.
Les « Délices » offre une des meilleures tables tout en restant dans des prix corrects.
Merci pour tous ces renseignements.
Nous notons toutes les adresses et nous ne manquerons pas d'y aller faire un tour !
Ce trajet tana-manakara est un peu contraignant... C'est surtout que nous voulions le faire dès notre arrivée, de nuit ça aurait été bien, pour pouvoir profiter un maximum par la suite ... Mais si c'est dangereux nous allons revoir notre timing et faire ce trajet de jour.
Pour les bonnes adresses, je te conseille un bon restaurant à Manakara c'est le Fumoir "chez Loulou " c'est un petit bout France en moins cher avec des bons plats de chez nous et aussi dans cette même ville " Chez Madame Rose, la Guiguette " après le pont en allant sur le bord de mer.
Si tu fais une escale, chose que je te souhaite à Ranomafana sinon tu ne feras pas de forêt primaire pluvieuse ( pour la pluie, cela dépend de la saison, bien sur ), alors arrête toi à l'hôtel Manja c'est là que les taxi brousse s'arrêtent pour repartir sur Manakara, Manajary, Fianare ou Tana cela dépend dans quel sens tu arrives.😉
Amicalement😎
PS: Pour les adresses, je suis d'accord avec les autres pour Antsirabé et Fianare, à Antsirabé, il y a aussi la maison de retraitre et oui, ce n'est pas une blague!!😉
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Bonjour,
Une autre adresse de charme à Anstirabe (pas très originale j'en conviens puisque dans tous les guides...) :
- les chambres du voyageur.
Denis et Myriam sont vraiment hyper sympas. Accueil extra, service nickel, les chambres sont très joliment décorées avec beaucoup d'artisanat local. Les produits malgaches sont mis en valeur. La localisation (derrière la gare) oblige également le voyageur à sortir des artères principales de la ville et à s'impregner de la vie des petits quatiers.
En + Denis participe bcp à la vie de la communauté, il aide et sensibilise les populations locales avec l'aide des chefs de quartier locaux (recyclage des piles, mise en place de projets communs, partage de l'electricité....). Il a reçu le trophée label vert du tourisme durable en 2008 ! Enfin ils seront (à mon avis) de bon conseil pour des excursions dans le coin.
Bon voyage
Bonjour,
Je te conseille de faire plutôt le train dans le sens Fianar-Manakara, cela nous a pris 9h"30 - 10h00, je sais que le train du retour le lendemain a mis 14h....le trajet est sympa mais éprouvant. de plus la nuit tombe tôt...vers 18h00 donc ce serait dommage de rater 2h de paysages en roulant de nuit.
@+
A Manakara, se rendre à l'hôtel des délices au centre et lui demander ses bungalows au bord de l'eau (très chouette, tranquille et pas cher). C'est un réunionnais sympa, on y mange bien aussi. En remontant, aussi bien à ambositra qu'à Antsirabe, faire le tour des différents artisans, des guides vous le proposeront pour pas chers. Je regrette de ne pas avoir fait sur plusieurs jours les villages zafimary aux alentours d'ambositra (un peu cher mais je pense que ça vaut le coup).
Bon voyage, nous allons nous croiser car nous arrivons le 10 novembre. Annelore
Pour le trajet tana vers manakar, je te conseil de le faire en deux jours car il faut deja 12h en taxi brousse pour faire tana Fianar et apres prendre le train pour manakar.
Pour ce qui est des vetement moi quand je fais la route , la journée pantacourt ou short et t-shirt mais la nuit prevoir des vetement chaud car fianar (milieu du trajet) se trouve dans les hauts plaineset les nuits sont fraiche.
Moi j'y retourne avec mon frere depard de france le 18 octobre et nous faisons la descente tana-fianar-tulear entre le 19 et le 21.
Bon sejour.
Bonjour,
Merci pour les infos.
Je viens de contacter Madasmile pour le trajet Tana-Fiana.
Ils me précisent la prise en charge à 7h15 le matin à l'hôtel, et préconisent 5 à 6 heures de trajets.. ça me parait peu ! qu'en pensez-vous ? Surtout que ça ne correspond pas aux infos données sur le site.
Quelqu'un a t-il déjà fait ce trajet avec madasmile ?
Pour moi ils racompte n'importe quoi, vu l'etat des route c'est pas possible de faire tana tulear en 5 à 6 heures. Moi perso je l'ai toujour fais en taxi brousse et on met entre 10 à 12 heures, certe on va pas a la meme vitesse mais il ne vont pas deux fois plus vite. (A moins qu'ils aient construit des auto route 😉 !!!
Tana/ fianar ça fait 450 Kms, en VL je n'ai jamais mis moins de 7h.
La route est en bon état, mais il ne faut compter guère plus de 60 km/H de moyenne et en roulant bien.
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Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?