Nos impressions après un voyage en couple de 11 jours sur l'Express Côtier HURTIGRUTEN du 14 au 24 Avril 2015 sur le Kong Harald.
Nous ne reviendrons pas sur la beauté des sites traversés, tout a déjà été dit et redit sur les forums.
Par contre, compte tenu des tarifs pratiqués il nous semble nécessaire d'exprimer nos points de vue quant à l'intendance et au service à bord…
Les contacts téléphoniques avec l'Agence HURTIGRUTEN :
Si avant votre départ vous téléphonez à l'agence HURTIGRUTEN de Paris (la plateforme est délocalisée ailleurs), vous n'y trouverez pas toujours les réponses exactes et le service risque d'être limite. Nous avons appelé trois fois et les trois réponses formulées ont été contredites une fois en voyage.
L'arrivée à bord de l'express côtier :
Avant d'embarquer vous devrez fournir votre carte bancaire afin qu'un badge vous soit délivré (pas obligatoire mais nous le recommandons) pour vos dépenses à bord. Ce badge vous permettra l'accès à votre cabine et à quitter et revenir à bord lorsque vous descendrez dans les ports d'escale.
Nos remarques quant au service à bord :
Tout d'abord il faut savoir que les officiers du navire ne vous salueront jamais; aucun geste aucun sourire. Ils prennent leur repas dans la même salle à manger que les passagers mais demeurent muets. C'est un premier contact vraiment étrange qui dénote comparativement à l'accueil à bord des avions SAS où les équipages et le personnel de cabine sont souriants, prévenants… Sur le Kong Harald vous ne représentez rien… sauf des "Couronnes NOK" au travers de tout ce que l'on vous propose tout au long du voyage.
Quant à l'équipage de service, ce sera le strict minimum à de trop rares exceptions près.
Les Horaires et Places pour le repas du soir sont fixées une fois pour toute, ce qui est très désagréable si vous avez la malchance de vous trouver en compagnie de gens avec qui vous n'avez aucune sympathie particulière. Il est quasiment impossible de changer de table.
Il n'y a pas d'internet fiable. C'est un comble! Comme la plupart des voyageurs, nous avons rencontré de nombreuses impossibilités de connexion. Et, ne cherchez pas de l'aide auprès du personnel de bord…
Au cours de la traversée nous avons rencontré deux soucis qui ont contrarié les idées que nous nous faisions de la propreté à bord. Il faut savoir que dés que vous montez à bord, on vous demande et recommande plusieurs fois, de vous nettoyer les mains avec un produit désinfectant. Soit!
Dans le même temps nous avons supporté :
Une cabine mal nettoyée le second jour de la traversée : abattant de la cuvette des WC pas net et papier hygiénique déroulé trainant à même le sol de la "salle d'eau". Cela a été signalé. Ensuite tout a été très bien fait; mais tout de même!
Seconde anecdote. Nous buvions du lait frais tous les matins et avions remarqué que la date de validité des berlingots en papier précisant une date limite au 22 Avril. Le 23 Avril, les mêmes berlingots étaient à disposition… Nous en avons alors fait la remarque à la responsable de salle. Celle-ci n'a rien dit, est partie en cuisine et est revenue avec du lait dans des bouteilles. A-t-elle transvasé le lait dans ces bouteilles? A telle fourni un lait frais? Nous ne le saurons jamais. Mais c'est incident a semé le doute dans notre esprit et dans celui de nombreux passagers avec qui nous avions sympathisé!
A table vous devrez soit ne pas boire soit acheter des bouteilles d'eau de 50cl à 3 Euros chacune. Sur le Kong Harald, aucune possibilité de fontaine ou quoi que ce soit… Il est donc nécessaire de souscrire un forfait; pour notre part nous prenions une bouteille de 50cl pour deux à chaque repas soit 425 Couronnes (en gros 50 Euros) de Bergen à Trondheim.
Quant au café, on vous proposera un forfait trop cher (345 couronnes soit 40 euros environ pour le trajet Bergen Trondheim) ) comprenant la fourniture d'un "mug". Le café n'est vraiment pas fameux (du même goût que celui bu à l'armée…) et ce "mug" y donne un goût métallique. En temps normal, nous sommes gros consommateurs de café mais vu le goût du breuvage, nous ne conseillons pas de souscrire à ce forfait; le soir le café est offert et au petit déjeuner il est servi à volonté.
Les petits déjeuners sont copieux mais on regrettera qu'il n'y ait eu qu'une seule fois des œufs au plat… Le buffet de midi est varié et riche. Les poissons sont probablement issus des élevages Norvégiens, souvent gras (pour le saumon). Les dîners sont trop légers et l'affectation définitive des places est un vrai soucis dans le confort du voyage.
Il n'y a pas de piano à bord. On aurait aimé y trouver à minima un clavier électronique au sein de l'un des salons souvent bien peu occupés…
Enfin, alors que la majeure partie des voyageurs sont là pour admirer les paysages et prendre des photographies, il n'y a rien d'organisé à bord pour échanger entre voyageurs. HURTIGRUTEN serait bien inspiré en installant deux ou trois ordinateurs associés à des prises USB et cartes SD afin de permettre échanges, discussions et pourquoi pas appréciation quotidienne de la plus belle photographie de la journée par exemple. On comprend mal pourquoi cette idée n'a pas déjà été mise en œuvre?
Pour finir, lors de ce voyage il y avait environ 300 passagers lors de l'embarquement de Bergen, dont une petite cinquantaine de Français, voire moins. Nous avons constaté que les Français étaient peu considérés; une forme de discrimination. Les messages en français sont toujours les derniers après Norvégien, Allemand, Anglais et leurs traductions ne sont pas toujours très fidèles.
En conclusion, le voyage vaut le coup pour les paysages, les escales, etc. Mais pour ce qui concerne la qualité des services offerts par HURTIGRUTEN, nous disons "peut mieux faire".
Bonjour,
Après 6 voyages sur l'Express-Cotier je suis d'accord avec vous sur 3 points:
- le diner que je trouve trop long (mais par contre, très bon) et en particulier le fait qu'on nous impose nos voisins de table. Comme Hurtigruten regroupe les passagers par nationalité (dans le but, devinez quoi, de faciliter le dialogue entre les passagers), je me suis toujours retrouvée à table avec d'autres passagers français, et il faut le reconnaitre, les français en voyage sont souvent chiants. 😉
- Le café n'est pas bon
- Faire payer pour l'eau est assez scandaleux (c'est récent).
Pour le reste, mon ressenti est totalement inverse du votre, comme quoi, ça dépend de la sensibilité de chacun. J'ai toujours rencontré des équipages polis et qui disent bonjour quand on les croise dans l'escalier (même un capitaine qui nous a proposé de visiter la cabine de pilotage) et du personnel de service attentif (je passe sur le reste mais je n'ai pas eu de pbs de propreté, et la wifi est en général correcte - et gratuite, ce qui ne me semble pas être le cas sur de nombreux bateaux de croisière).
Et tant mieux qu'il n'y ait pas de piano à bord, celà ne correspond pas du tout à ce voyage. Attention à bien savoir où l'on va quand on embarque : même si aujourd'hui les touristes représentent une bonne partie des passagers, les bateaux sont des bateaux de travail.
Quant au français à bord... Il y a fréquemment des dizaines de nationalités sur un seul voyage, donc Hurtigruten ne peut pas assurer la traduction dans toutes les langues. Vous étiez apparemment de nombreux français, mais ça n'est pas le cas très fréquemment (dans tous mes voyages, il y en avait entre 5 et 20 max). Les allemands, par contre, représentent depuis longtemps une part importante des passagers. Si les français se mettent à venir plus fréquemment et plus régulièrement, peut-être qu'Hurtigruten fera plus d'efforts vers eux. Mais bon, ça n'est pas anormal de ne pas avoir de français dans un pays étranger. Si vous n'avez aucune notion d'anglais, ce n'est sans doute pas le bon voyage (il y a ceci dit plusieurs départs dans l'année avec accompagnateurs français).
Bonjour et merci de ce retour et confrontation d'impressions,
Juste un dernier mot afin de ne pas créer de fausses polémiques et demeurer respectueux des idées de chacun.
Nous avons demandé à visiter le poste de pilotage du navire. Refus net et plutôt sec.
OK pour le piano... je ne vois pas ce que cela changerai à l'état d'esprit sur un navire marchand. Sauf erreur, sur les batiments de la royale les militaires disposent de salles de détente...
Bien cordialement à vous. Il n'y aura pas de nouvelles réponse de notre part.
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Hi, I'm heading to Italy soon and I wanted to know if Italian banks charge fees when you withdraw cash at an ATM, or if, like in Spain or Greece, it's better to avoid taking out money and bring cash instead. Looking forward to your replies... Thanks
We’re planning a short trip at the end of July to explore the legendary mountains and valleys of the Bernese Oberland: round trip from Nancy (Swiss highway vignette planned), 2 nights in a room with a small kitchen in Adelboden, then 2 nights in a hotel at the Gletscherblick in Grindelwald, both with half-board included.
Could you share some tips on the best road routes to take, as well as some walking hikes (we’re not as fit as we used to be, so nothing longer than 2-3 hours)? Maybe also 1 or 2 cable car rides—I was thinking of Oeschinensee Lake above Kandersteg and the First gondola above Grindelwald for better panoramic views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau... all while keeping it doable with our schedule. We’ve ruled out the "premium" trip up to the Jungfraujoch for this time.
I’m also guessing that paying to access Wengen or Mürren only makes sense if we’re staying there for a few days, right?
- Is the road through the narrow valley of the White Lütschine toward Lauterbrunnen and beyond still worth it in terms of views and scenery?
On the way back, if we have a little time to explore Bern’s historic old town, what’s the best parking plan for a 1- or 2-hour stop?
Thanks in advance for your advice, fellow travelers familiar with this beautiful region! 😉
Hi there, my husband and I are planning a trip to Iceland in mid-October 2026.
Would you have any advice on the best places to visit for a first trip to this destination? Thanks
Amazing trip in May 2026: fantastic landscapes, such a different vibe from our other journeys, wonderful memories, but...
- Discovering the population: very few "native" Icelanders,
and exceptional discretion from the police, who were notably absent from the white vehicle stopped by the roadside that caught us speeding in mid-May...
To this day, only our inquiry with the car rental company has informed us of a "speeding ticket" message. More than a month later, we still don’t know the "severity" of the offense or the amount of the fine we’ll be "hit with."
Well, well, a taste of Icelandic administrative experience...
I’ve found some great deals on flights to two destinations: Menorca in the Balearic Islands and Alghero in Sardinia.
The flights would take us from Bordeaux to Menorca on the evening of 9/07 and return to Bordeaux in the evening on 13/07.
Or to Alghero very early on 10/07 (departure at 6 AM) and return in the mid-afternoon on 13/07.
We love beautiful landscapes, the sea, snorkeling, walks (hiking), and the charm of villages.
We want to spend some quality time as a couple without our kids and mix discovery with relaxation.
I can’t make up my mind. The transport costs are roughly the same when you factor in parking for Sardinia since the early departure means no public transport from home.
We’ve never been to Menorca, Sardinia, or Italy at all. I’ve been to Majorca, though.
Menorca would be 4 nights and 4 days, while Alghero would be 3 nights and 2.5 days.
Also, what itinerary would you recommend for Alghero and Menorca?
Where to stay?
Thank you so much for your insightful traveler tips.
Hi,
I’ll be in Barcelona at the end of October.
I can choose to be there over the weekend or during the week. Probably 4 nights.
Is there a big difference in terms of crowds in the city and in the museums?
Little or no difference would simplify my itinerary on the way.
Hi there,
I’ll be in Rome from April 1st to 13th, 2026—it’s coming up fast!
I’ve been searching online for tickets to visit the Borghese Gallery, but either there’s no availability or the tickets offered are ridiculously expensive.
Could someone guide me to a website where I can book 2 skip-the-line tickets (I’ve heard you have to reserve in advance online)?
Hi everyone,
I rented a car through Klaus Wagen, picking it up in downtown Porto and returning it in downtown Lisbon.
After paying, I read some pretty negative reviews about them.
So, can anyone reassure me with positive experiences they’ve had with them?
Thanks in advance!
Hello, VoyageForum friends, and happy holidays!
I’m planning a trip with my 19-year-old grandson to Milan for Easter Saturday, Sunday, and Monday in 2025.
I’d love your insights on what we can visit in Milan that would interest both my grandson and me (I’m 75). Of course, I’m thinking of the must-sees, but not just those—cozy little restaurants, trendy neighborhoods, and anything else you’d recommend. I’m also looking for a comfortable hotel in the city center that isn’t too expensive!
I’m sure the VoyageForum community will help me uncover some hidden gems! Looking forward to your replies.
Hi there,
I’m heading to Setúbal at the end of June with my granddaughter, and I can’t seem to find clear info on the best way to get from Lisbon Airport to Setúbal. It looks like there’s a train or bus, but I can’t find the exact names of the bus (or train) companies or the precise departure points. Thanks if anyone can help me out! 😉 Just to clarify, I’m on a tight budget and have already ruled out taxis or similar options.
Hello,
We’re heading to Puglia at the end of May. We’re a senior couple. We arrive in Bari, where we’ve booked accommodation for 2 nights. We’ve rented a car.
Day 1: Bari
Day 2: Polignano a Mare – Monopoli
Day 3: Ostuni – Brindisi
Day 4: Lecce
Day 5 & 6: Exploring the coast from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca
Day 7 & 8: Gallipoli area
Day 9 & 10: Matera
We’re considering renting a place near Lecce for 5 days and using it as a base to explore the region.
Hi there,
I visited the Faroe Islands in late March 2026 for about ten days. I was invited by a friend who lives near Tórshavn, so I don’t have any info on tourist accommodations or car rentals. Still, I’d like to share a few thoughts about my trip:
- Before leaving, I consulted travel guides and blogs. I was surprised by how repetitive and unoriginal the featured sites were. This leads hurried travelers to follow the same overcrowded routes, which can annoy locals. I found that all Faroese villages were interesting—they reflect the country’s identity, even without the iconic grass-roofed houses. Those are indeed harmonious and beautiful, but they feel like an exotic cliché. For activities, I loved the lively ports that keep the country running.
- I was annoyed by the paid trails in tourist spots. Locals explained that these paths cross private land, and owners are responsible for maintenance and safety. There are plenty of free trails, too—signs at the start detail their features. While not alarmist, the extreme and unpredictable weather is a key factor to consider before setting out.
- The wind’s strength really impressed me. The architecture, with doors and windows opening outward to prevent gusts from blowing roofs off, speaks to the harsh climate. Some days, relentless rain and squalls made going outside unappealing. I realized that in this country, it’s best to plan for flexible indoor days.
- Distances are relatively short. I was happy to be based near Tórshavn because it was easy to explore one or more places in a day. The roads are in great condition. In late March, diesel was 2 €. Tunnel tolls can add up (~26 € per crossing), making a fixed base less practical than I’d thought.
- Everyone agrees: the landscapes are breathtaking. Nature feels untamed here—except for the short grass, thanks to all the woolly sheep.
- The flight from Paris to the Faroe Islands (and back) was long in March—11 hours with three legs: Paris-Amsterdam, Amsterdam-Copenhagen, Copenhagen-Vágar. In bad weather, Vágar Airport can close, causing delays. During tourist season, Atlantic Airways offers a direct Paris-Faroe Islands flight, which is more comfortable and cheaper.
- I found a book recommendation in a guide that fascinated me after my trip: *Les collectionneurs d'images* by Joanes Nielsen. Through its sometimes caricatured characters, it offers a glimpse into Faroese mentalities from the 1950s to 1970s—attitudes that likely persist today.
In conclusion, I’ve traveled a lot and I’m tired of destinations that all start to look the same. The Faroe Islands were a delight—a country stunning in its landscape, climate, and culture, where tourism has barely altered its authenticity.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip for October to visit Naples (6 nights) and the Amalfi Coast (5 nights). We’ve already got the historic center and the Lapis Museum in Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Procida, Sorrento, and Ravello on our list. Any suggestions, addresses, or tips?
Thanks for your help.
Hello,
We’re heading to Rome from 21/09, arriving in the early afternoon, and returning on 28/09, leaving in the morning. We’ve already booked our flight tickets and our accommodation in the city center: Via Ezio.
I’d love to get your feedback on our itinerary and if there are any visits we should book right now:
Monday 21 afternoon:
Largo di Torre Argentina: a sacred spot for cats.
Tuesday 22:
The Vatican: Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel in the morning. Afternoon: St. Peter’s Basilica, the dome, and if possible, the necropolis.
Wednesday 23:
Morning: Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. Afternoon: Trastevere neighborhood and the Monumento a Garibaldi.
Thursday 24:
Piazza Navona, Church of St. Louis of the French, the Pantheon, Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Venezia, Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, Trevi Fountain.
Friday 25:
Villa Borghese, Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps, Quirinale, Piazza della Repubblica, and Santa Maria degli Angeli.
Saturday 26:
Aventine and Testaccio neighborhoods, the Capuchin Crypt.
Sunday 27:
Ostia.
Monday 28:
Departure.
Are any days too packed, or should we add more visits?
Thanks for your input and help!
Cheers!
Anne
Summer 2027 is going to be Norwegian for us!
We’re heading to the Lofoten Islands first, then Senja, near Tromsø, and finally the North Cape.
We’ll likely start from northern Finland (flight tickets and car rentals are more affordable there).
I’d like to book accommodations early to have more options.
Good value-for-money places go fast in these pricey Nordic destinations...
But where should we book?
We’re planning to stay around ten nights in the Lofoten Islands.
What’s the best approach?
One place in the central part and explore from there?
One place in the south and another in the center?
Or one in the south, one in the center, and one in the north (3-4-3 nights)?
Hi there,
I’m looking for some great tips for a stay in Palma de Mallorca this summer.
I need cheap flights departing from Toulouse and affordable accommodation for 4 people.
What do you recommend?
Best regards,
I’d love to get your thoughts on the following itinerary (late May). I like to take my time in ruins and museums, and beaches don’t interest me. I’ll be staying in hostels and using public transport. Do you see any major omissions or things that aren’t worth it?
Thanks!
Day 1: Arrival in CATANIA
Day 2: Catania – visit (fish market, cathedral, Biscarri Palace, etc.)
Day 3: Mount Etna (day trip)
Day 4: Morning trip to TAORMINA, visit the town
Day 5: Alcantara Gorge (day trip) + more time in Taormina
Day 6: Trip to SYRACUSE, visit Ortigia
Day 7: Ortigia
Day 8: NOTO (day trip) (or another Baroque town?)
Day 9: Syracuse Archaeological Park + more time in Ortigia (or leave for Enna?)
Day 10: Transport via Enna? TO BE RESOLVED (long, 2 or 3 changes, limited accommodation in Enna...)
Day 11: AGRIGENTO: town and Scala dei Turchi (optional)
Day 12: Valley of the Temples + archaeological museum
Day 13: Departure for TRAPANI (4h), afternoon: town (+ salt flats?)
Day 14: Segesta (day trip) + town/Erice
Day 15: Monte Cofano Nature Reserve (hike + summit) (day trip)
Day 16: Zingaro Nature Park (coastal route out, ridge route back) (day trip)
Day 17: Departure for the AEGADIAN ISLANDS: Levanzo and Favignana (bike), overnight if possible
Day 18: Egadi Islands
Day 19: Departure for PALERMO + first visits
Day 20: The city
Day 21: The city (Monreale?)
Day 22: Options:
- Capo Gallo hike (3.5h round trip) (via Mondello)
- Cefalù (45 min by train)
Day 23: Return flight
Hello,
We’re heading to Bavaria from May 13 to 23, with a side trip to Austria.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Brussels-Munich
Day 2: Munich
Day 3: Munich and departure for Salzburg
We’ll be staying three nights in Salzburg.
Then we’ll head to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, where we’ll stay for five nights.
Visiting Munich and Salzburg isn’t too tricky.
Once in Garmisch, we’re planning a day in Innsbruck, a day for Neuschwanstein Castle, and the rest is still up in the air.
What’s really got me stumped is that we’d love to see Königssee Lake—everyone says it’s a must-see.
We’d also like to visit the Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus), where the landscapes are supposedly stunning.
This would either be a round trip while we’re in Salzburg or on the way between Salzburg and Garmisch, but I’m guessing it’s impossible to do the drive from Salzburg to Garmisch, the Eagle’s Nest, *and* Königssee Lake all in one day.
Plus, the Alpine route between Salzburg and Garmisch seems prettier than the highway.
But honestly, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with the planning.
We should’ve added a stop between Salzburg and Garmisch, but the hotels are already booked.
Thanks for any advice on the itinerary and visits!
Another question: How far in advance should we book Neuschwanstein, Königssee, and the Eagle’s Nest in May?
Thanks so much in advance for your tips and ideas!
hi
I’m wondering if anyone can give me some info on how to get from Mallorca to Menorca.
Since flights are cheaper to Mallorca, I’d like to go that way.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’re planning a trip to Finland and Norway this summer, starting in Oulu to explore Lapland, heading up to the North Cape, and then making our way down to Bergen.
This route means renting a car in Finland and dropping it off in Norway. My initial searches are showing rental rates that are... astronomical—about three times the price compared to returning it at the starting point.
I’m guessing I’m not the only one wanting to visit both countries. Are there any great tips to drastically reduce the cost of renting a car?
Hi there, we’re a couple of bikers planning a trip to Majorca in June 2026, and I’d love to organize a half-day or full-day boat or catamaran outing. Which coast do you think is the nicest for this, and do you have any suggestions or personal experiences to share? Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
Does anyone know if there are any works in progress at Torcello, and if so, what type of works and how long they’re expected to last?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’m sharing my draft itinerary with you because I just booked our flight tickets, and I feel like it’s quite late in the season. So, I’d like to be sure about my stops before reserving the hotels. I’ll be traveling alone with my two adult children. We want to prioritize outdoor walks, avoid too many indoor visits (both for budget and preference), and not spend too much time on the road.
D1: Arrival at 9 AM in Malaga, day in Malaga and overnight stay
D2: Head straight to Nerja (1-hour drive) and spend the night there
D3: Head straight to Granada (1.5-hour drive), spend the day and night there
D4: Granada. Visit the Alhambra (Nasrid Palaces tour at 5 PM) and spend the night
D5: Head to Ronda (2.5-hour drive) and spend the night
D6: White Villages and overnight in Ronda
D7: Head straight to the Costa del Sol (e.g., Estepona), spend the day and night there
D8: Return to Malaga to catch our flight
There you go! This itinerary takes into account that we’d like to do a circuit starting from Seville in a few years. That said, it’d be a shame to miss something doable from Malaga.
Questions:
Since the Alhambra visit is only at 5 PM, and we’d already have the day to explore Granada, would arriving the day before be a mistake? Or should we skip this day and dedicate it elsewhere (Costa del Sol? Head toward Tabernas?)? The old town appeals to me, but maybe the Sacromonte neighborhood isn’t essential...
Same question for Ronda: should we dedicate a full day to it, or combine Ronda and the White Villages in one day?
Note that we love wandering around villages outside, so that might answer my question! :)
Final question: Is it better to rent the car at Malaga Airport or in the city? If we rent at the airport, we’d need a hotel with parking, which doesn’t seem easy. Or stay outside the city and park for free near the center if possible? I’ve read comments about taking a taxi to Malaga and then picking up the rental car at the airport the next morning. The taxi would really need to be affordable...
Thanks so much for your feedback and suggestions for visits during this little circuit.
Have a great day, everyone!
Christine
Hello,
we’re a couple planning a 2-week road trip this August, with a must-stop (about 3 days on Skye). Any route suggestions? Hotel recommendations? Photo spots?
My husband and I are planning a trip to Ireland in September 2026.
We’ll be flying from Montreal to London, where we’ll spend three nights.
After that, we’ll head to Dublin for a few days and take trains to visit the main attractions.
Our ideal plan would be to choose hotels near train stations and take tours to the interesting spots.
Would 8 days in Ireland be enough for this kind of trip?
We’re a group of 4 heading out at the end of June for 11 days.
I’m just starting my research.
We’ll be renting a regular car, not a 4x4.
I’m not finding a ton of info on the North.
Would love your take on all those kilometers—is there a route that lets us cut out a section?
Thanks
