Questions about a three-week itinerary in Bali - Lombok - Flores - Komodo

Hi Albin,

You're putting the cart before the horse... Before diving into detailed questions about places and your itinerary, you should first ask yourself if you’ll even have time to do it all. Just for crossing Flores from Maumere to Labuhan Bajo, plus Komodo and the surrounding islands—without rushing or dragging your feet—you’ll need at least 2 weeks of sightseeing. Add a minimum of one night at the start in Bali and another at the end before your return flight, and you’re left with only 5 days for Lombok and Bali. Does that sound reasonable to you?

Hi Songsam, Thanks already for your message. Our itinerary isn't set in stone yet, and I'm actually asking for advice to help us make the best choices. To be more precise, we'll be there for 24 nights. We're initially thinking of focusing on Flores and Komodo (and possibly another island, which could be Lombok or a nearby one). As I mentioned, we don’t plan to visit Bali since we’ve already been there with family a few years ago. Your tips are more than welcome, especially about Flores and Komodo, which you seem to know well! Albin

Flores from East to West, possible stops:

Maumere, because you have to start somewhere and for its beaches and snorkeling opportunities in the surrounding area. It has an airport that isn’t directly served from Bali—you’ll need to connect via Labuhan Bajo or Kupang.

Moni for its colorful lakes of the Kelimutu volcano and the walking trails available in the nearby villages and hamlets. The Kelimutu lakes can sometimes be shrouded in mist, so I recommend planning several days in Moni to potentially try your luck again the next day.

Detusoko for its pretty, less-visited countryside—though accommodations are limited here (the only exception among the stops mentioned).

Ende, a quiet town that many use only as a transit stop between buses. It has an airport with the same connections as Maumere.

Riung for its beaches and lovely offshore islands, perfect for snorkeling. It’s the only place in Flores you can geographically skip by going straight from Ende to Bajawa.

Bajawa (accessible from Ende or Riung), famous for its surrounding ethnic villages. It also offers hot springs (with varying temperatures) north of the city. It has an airport with the same connections as Maumere.

Ruteng, known for its spiderweb-shaped rice terraces, which are quite spectacular when viewed from above. Its airport isn’t directly served from Bali—you’ll need to connect via Kupang.

Labuhan Bajo, the "tourist capital" of Flores and the gateway to Komodo and its surrounding islands, beaches, and snorkeling. Many agencies offer island cruises, or you can approach a boat captain directly (a less comfortable option). When booking a cruise, make sure to clarify whether the recently introduced island visit taxes are included in the price. Its airport is served from Maumere, Ende, Bajawa, Bali, Surabaya, Jakarta, and even Kuala Lumpur. Not all routes operate daily (Bali does). A ferry connects it to Sape (on Sumbawa Island, which is also linked to Lombok by ferry—handy if you’re returning from Flores to Bali by land and sea).

Public transport in Flores is slow, not very comfortable, and infrequent. I recommend it, though, as it offers a closer experience with the always-charming locals. Don’t lock yourself into a private car with a driver. Except for Detusoko, every stop mentioned has enough accommodations to avoid sleeping outdoors. All the flight connections listed are current but may change by July.

possibly another island like Lombok or a nearby one

Sumba Island (not the same as Sumbawa) is more interesting than Lombok, much less touristy than Flores, but also more off-the-beaten-path to visit.

Hi Songsam,

Thanks for all this info—I’m heading back to Flores in May. My last trip there was in 2007, so I’m interested in any updates. From what you’re saying, the travel times are still just as long. That doesn’t bother me—I survived the 10-hour Labuanbajo to Bajawa bemo ride with chickens, pigs, kreteks, and blasting local music… not to mention the stunning landscapes. A great memory!

It looks like there are no more flights between Bali and Maumere? That’s not very convenient for an east-to-west crossing, so I’d have to go back to Labuanbajo, right?

You mentioned Detusoko—I’ve been to Flores four or five times, but I’ve never heard of that place. Could you tell me where it is?

From what I remember, there weren’t many places to stay in Moni or Bajawa 15 years ago. Have things changed since then? Do you have any recommendations for accommodations? Thanks in advance.

Have a good evening.

Good evening Bruno,

Apparently, there are no more flights between Bali and Maumere => not very practical for a west-to-east crossing. So, we have to go back to Labuanbajo, right?

It’s crazy to think that not so long ago, Maumere was served directly not only from Bali and Kupang but also from Kalimantan (Balikpapan, I think) and Makassar... Today, yes, you’ll have to go back through Labuhan Bajo. Or go via Kupang.

Detusoko: I’ve been to Flores 4 or 5 times, but I’ve never heard of this place. Could you tell me where it is?

It’s more or less halfway along the road from Moni to Ende. If you’ve taken that route—which is highly likely if you’ve already crossed the island—you’ve passed through without realizing it.

From what I remember, there weren’t many places to stay in Moni and Bajawa 15 years ago. Have things changed since then? Do you have any recommendations?

No, I never recommend specific places because in the budget category—the only one I know in Indonesia or elsewhere—things change too often. Anyway, in May, you shouldn’t have any trouble finding a place.

Labuanbajo - Bajawa by bemo, with chickens, pigs, and kreteks

Back when I smoked, in Indonesia, I only smoked kreteks, and I used to bring some back to France to "share" with everyone. You were lucky to have them in the bemo—their smell covers up the pigs’ odor.

Hi Thierry,

Thanks for your replies.

Do you know which airline operates flights to Labuan Bajo from Bali—is it AirAsia?

Terima kasih.

Hi Bruno,

Yes, as well as Batik Air. Between them, they offer 5 to 6 daily flights depending on the day of the week.

Thanks Thierry,

Well, I shouldn’t have any trouble finding a flight.

I know Air Asia but not Batik Air—what do you think of them?

Have a good evening

I don’t know Batik Air either. On Skytrax, both airlines are rated 3 stars out of 5, and in passenger ratings, AirAsia scores 5/10 compared to 4/10 for Batik Air. Remember that these are low-cost airlines in rankings that also include full-service carriers.

Hi there, Just following up! I have a little organizational question ;) Do you take a suitcase or a backpack for traveling? (boat, road, plane) Thanks

Hello Following up I have a little organizational question ;) Do you take a suitcase or a backpack for traveling? (boat, road, plane) Thanks

So far I’ve always taken a backpack. And I’ll keep doing that. I think it’ll hold up better to the rough transport conditions in Flores

Hi there,

Are you taking a suitcase or a backpack for your trip?

In Indonesia or anywhere else, I’ve never taken a suitcase because when you end up in transport without a luggage hold—like a tuk-tuk, songthaew, minivan, bemo, or shared taxi—a backpack is *way* easier to lug around on your lap or squeeze into a tiny free space. Plus, it stays balanced way better when the roads are rough.

Did you find an agency for your boat/snorkeling trip from Labuan Bajo to Lombok?

What about Wings Air serving Maumere? Any experiences?

No.