we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
Hi there,
we’re also planning a 2-week road trip in Guatemala in February (from the 14th to the 28th). We’ve decided to fly straight to Flores, then rent a car and drive back toward Guatemala City via Río Dulce. Here’s why we chose this route:
- I don’t want to take a flight (or a really long bus ride) right before my international flight (I’m always afraid of missing it 😛). So we’ll end our trip in Antigua, which is close to GC.
- We want to climb Acatenango. To do that, we’d rather have a few days to acclimate to the altitude first. The climb is pretty physical, and we might be sore the next few days. We didn’t want that to be "disruptive" during our trip, so we’ve scheduled Antigua and the volcano climb for the end of the trip, after spending a few days around Lake Atitlán. Then we’ll spend one night near GC (a hotel with a pool) so I won’t stress about missing my flight!
- We chose to rent a car to avoid wasting time on transportation, not be tied to bus/shuttle schedules, and be able to take breaks along the way wherever we want. My partner is a good driver and isn’t afraid to drive there. I trust him and his skills completely!
Here’s our itinerary:
- Arrival in GC, flight to Flores, 1 night in Flores
- 3 nights in El Remate: Yaxha, Tikal, Crater Azul
- 2 nights in Río Dulce
- 1 *very* long driving day to Panajachel: a short night there, then visit Santa Catalina Palopó the next day before heading to Chichicastenango, stopping in Sololá and at different viewpoints over the lake.
- 1 night in Chichi (Saturday night) to be at the market at dawn before the tours arrive.
- 2 nights in San Juan with a local host: Indian Nose, cultural visits in San Juan, and exploring other villages around the lake
- 3 nights in Antigua (including the night at the volcano summit). We’ll return the car when we get there.
- Final night near the airport: a hotel 3 minutes away, free shuttle, pool. This will be our only "nice tourist hotel"—a chance to relax before flying back to Marseille and jumping straight back into work!
There you go! It’ll be a bit of a whirlwind, but we don’t know how to travel any other way than these "rally-style" trips! We’ve skipped Semuc Champey because we don’t have time and had to make choices. But since we’re going to Crater Azul, that’ll more than make up for it!
Everything’s already booked/reserved—just missing the flight tickets! XD
Hi Lomaphi,
We spent two weeks in Guatemala in May, and I think 3 nights in Antigua is a bit short—especially since your first day might be cut short by travel and jet lag. And the last day too, since the trip to the lake is pretty long.
Personally, I loved Antigua, but the lake… not so much.
We’re also heading to Guatemala in February for a little over two weeks.
We’ve got a lot of the same stops as you, just in a different order!
We’re planning to spend 5 days around Flores, El Remate, and I’d love to visit Crater Azul, which you mentioned.
You said you’ve already got everything planned—does that include Crater Azul? Did you book a day trip from Flores?
I was thinking of maybe spending a night in Sayaxche to take the boat ride first thing in the morning, then heading back to Flores by the end of the day. I’m not finding much info—do you know if it’s doable without booking in advance?
Did your trip to Guatemala go well (we crossed paths on Myatlas Guatemala)? Did you enjoy the country?
I don’t know what weather you had, but I read accounts from tourists talking about a cold snap in the country—I hope you avoided it.
Hi Marie,
Yes, I remember our exchange on Myatlas—how are you?
I’m actually putting together a travel journal about our recent trip to Guatemala, and I’ll definitely post a little recap here on VF afterward.
We really loved Guatemala, though we were a bit frustrated we didn’t stay longer... Our itinerary was pretty classic: Antigua - Lake Atitlán - El Remate/Flores.
It was our first taste of Central America, and it made us want to go back.
And yeah, it was *really* cold in Antigua! The temperatures were unusually low, but it warmed up later.🙂
I’m putting together a travel journal about our recent trip to Guatemala, and I’ll definitely share a little recap on VF later.
Our itinerary was pretty classic: Antigua - Lake Atitlan - El Remate/Flores.
It was our first taste of Central America, and it’s made us want to go back.
Good evening Béatrice,
Your itinerary was classic, but you saw some of the most beautiful spots in the country—though you’ll have to come back to see the rest!
You skipped Rio Dulce, and that was the right call. For a two-week trip, you have to make choices because getting around the country takes time, no matter how you travel.
The other Central American countries are also worth it—they each have their own charm.
I’ll be happy to read your travel journal on MyAtlas and your recap on VoyageForum.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
I just read your travel journal on Myatlas, and I’m leaving a few comments here—seems more fitting than on Myatlas.
You did well to mention the shuttle travel times because people often look at a map of Guatemala and think places aren’t far apart, but in reality, the trips are long and time-consuming, and it’s even worse in mountainous areas.
Too bad about the lost day getting to Flores. I left Antigua around 4 or 5 in the morning for Río Dulce, and at that early hour, we avoided traffic. If I’d kept going to Flores, I think I would’ve arrived in the early afternoon. With your shoulder, you made the right call not taking a chicken bus for long distances—it would’ve finished you off! Hope you’re feeling better.
During my stay, Flores wasn’t flooded like in your photos, but I’d heard it could happen.
For Panajachel, I agree with you—the tourist exploitation ruins the place, even though the lake view is stunning. I met some Spanish tourists who couldn’t wait to leave, and I didn’t love San Marco either.
If you’d never heard howler monkeys before, I get why it was surprising! In El Remate, they were right near my room, and I could hear them at night. I also saw some at Tikal, along with quite a few spider monkeys.
You mention three lost days and wonder where you could’ve spent them. I think Río Dulce would’ve been great, especially if you like boat rides. The Yaxhá site is nice too.
I haven’t been to El Paredón, but from the photos, it looks like the surf beaches in Nicaragua and El Salvador. I think the mountainous regions of the Ixil Triangle and the Cuchumatanes are more interesting, with gorgeous landscapes for hiking and communities that have kept their traditions, clothing, etc.—that’s something you don’t see as much in Nicaragua or El Salvador.
From your photos, it looks like you lucked out with the weather and avoided the rain.
Didn’t you go to Chichicastenango?
By the way, during your stay, there was a "state of prevention" in the country, but I guess you didn’t notice anything unusual since it mostly affects the capital?
Have a good evening, and hope your shoulder recovers soon!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
hi there—if there are flooded areas, especially in Tikal, avoid going into the vegetation.
You could get bitten by a barba amarilla.
With the flooded ground, snakes come out.
If there are flooded areas, especially in Tikal, avoid going into the vegetation.
You risk getting bitten by a barba amarilla.
Good evening,
In Tikal, I was about to take a path that was actually marked with a sign—it seemed to be toward the north—and a guide who saw me leave called out to tell me not to go alone because visitors had gotten lost in that area. Some men in military fatigues who seemed to be guards told me it was dangerous because of wild animals.
Don’t forget the site is right in the jungle. A few days earlier, a female jaguar and her cub even passed in front of the hotel where I was staying—the receptionist showed me the photos.
Tikal is huge, and a lot of tourists only see a small part of it. Between the jaguar in front of the hotel and the warnings from the guide and the guard, I didn’t really feel like venturing too far off.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Did you know there’s a lookout point? And a few meters further, an "aguada"?
I don’t know which lookout point you’re talking about? There’s one that everyone climbs, where you get a great view of the jungle surrounding the site. As you go up, you end up really close to the tops of some trees, where you can see several families of howler monkeys.
I don’t know what an "aguada" is?
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Yes, the travel times were really long, and we could’ve planned better—like you, leaving at dawn—but it’s okay, it’s all part of the unpredictability of travel, and we don’t like planning everything too much. Even missed connections, in my opinion, are part of the journey...
Flores wasn’t completely flooded, just the docks, and I read that it’s a lake that doesn’t drain, so the rains from previous years made it overflow more or less. It gave off a "Venice-like" vibe—mysterious and pretty romantic. In Peten, they had an unusually cold and rainy winter, not typical at all.
Yes, we didn’t get any rain, phew! Just cold in Antigua.
At Tikal, we also strayed onto a more secluded path at one point, and I remembered your comment about jaguars... We didn’t go any further...😛
I’ve already come across a big snake in Chocó, Colombia, while walking along the beach with a headlamp, and honestly, it was pretty stressful—we almost stepped on it! Since then, we’ve been more careful!
We did see the military quite present on the roads, in airports, and bus stations. We hadn’t seen the news at all, so it didn’t really stand out to us.
Living in Paris, we’re (unfortunately) used to seeing armed security brigades in the streets and train stations...
I’m sure I would’ve loved Rio Dulce and Livingston!
See you soon, Marie. I’ll try to post a quick summary of this trip on VF as soon as I can.
I don’t know what it was like in February, but in July and August, there’s no need to book accommodations weeks ahead. In touristy spots, there are plenty of lodging options, and in less touristy areas, there aren’t many guests, so I’d book the day before or two days prior. For shuttles, it was the same—there are lots of agencies and vans running, and I even bought a ticket one afternoon to leave the next morning.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Sinforosa, regarding El Mirador I mentioned— to reach it, you need to follow the old disused airstrip to the end, then you’ll find a trail that leads to this mirador. A few meters further, there’s an "aguada" (a watering hole) with two or three caimans 😉
If you keep going on this trail, you’ll head deeper into the jungle, and it leads to a kind of pond buried in the jungle.
From there, a path cuts through the jungle, and after about 3 hours, you’ll reach the boundaries of Tikal National Park.
The mirador you climbed is most likely Temple IV, the tallest one—I think it’s the Temple of the Serpent.
As for the other trails starting from Tikal for those who want to venture into the jungle:
- 1. The one that starts from the mirador mentioned above.
- 2. Before the first *comedores*, there’s a trail that branches off the road leading to El Remate.
This one connects with Trail 1.
- 3. Behind Temple IV, there’s a trail leading to Tizin Tikal and toward El Zotz.
It’s not recommended to take this one alone—make sure you have a guide with you.
- 4. The road to Uaxactun, obviously.
hi Sinforosa, gotta say I’ve been to Tikal about ten times 🙂
Unfortunately, no jaguars—I haven’t spotted any, even though I’ve crisscrossed the trails in the Petén jungle quite a bit.
I did the Uaxactun–El Mirador stretch without a guide and still didn’t see any jaguars
I did see white-lipped peccaries, snakes (including boa constrictors), deer, and caimans.
But with a bit of luck, you might also spot tapirs.
The main pyramid at El Mirador is called La Danta, which means tapir in Spanish
I was told that where there are coatis, there can be jaguars.
I saw a boa in the garden of my place in Nicaragua—it was pretty big. It’s quite impressive. That one had just swallowed one of the house kittens. The housekeeper killed it with a machete. We saw the little kitten’s paw sticking out, but obviously, it was already dead. The boa didn’t fight back—it was probably digesting its catch.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hey there, yeah, I love adventure.
I’m planning to go back to Petén next February.
Have any of you actually seen a jaguar there?
There are jaguars all over Petén since it’s such a huge protected area
No, I’ve never seen a jaguar, and I wouldn’t want to run into one in the middle of the jungle—even though I’ve heard they don’t attack humans because they already have plenty to eat there. (If you come face-to-face with one, I was told you shouldn’t move—just stay completely still...)
I only saw a photo of a female and her cub (already quite big) that had passed by the hotel a few days earlier. The receptionist showed it to me on his phone (some tourists were also at the hotel at the time), and it’s really a beautiful animal.
Otherwise, in Brazil, I met some Spanish tourists who had seen them in the Pantanal.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Lomaphi,
We spent two weeks in Guatemala in May. I think 3 nights in Antigua is a bit short, especially since your first day might be cut short by travel and jet lag. And the last day too, because the trip to the lake is quite long.
Personally, I loved Antigua, but the lake... not so much.
I’ll throw in some personal notes here, a bit scattered, following up on Dede75010:
I agree that 3 days in Antigua is a minimum, especially if those 3 days include the travel time to get there (at least 2 hours from GUA airport, I think), and if you want to do the little Pacaya hike, which takes several hours by bus and on foot. The city has several sites worth visiting, lots of nice restaurants and cafés, it’s very walkable, and big enough that you won’t get tired of it after 2 days. We really liked the restaurant San Martin, on a street corner one block from the cathedral—spacious, visually appealing, good food with plenty of choices, and reasonable prices.
Lake Atitlan is a bit tricky to describe in a few sentences, but I’ll try based on what I know. Panajachel is nice but doesn’t have much beauty in itself. It’s very touristy, but it’s bearable (it could be worse!). For those who like hunting for typical souvenirs, there are tons of little shops—it’s a real Aladdin’s cave! We found a well-located hotel, very pleasant with nice rooms and a lovely garden where it’s great to sit in the shade of the trees, at a reasonable price (we’re not into luxury!). But I think many people would get tired of it after 2 days. The real appeal of the lake is only fully enjoyed if you visit one of the small villages outside Panajachel. We only went to San Juan La Laguna—small, nice, but we were tired of it after 2 days. Very touristy too. There are several other spots around the lake, but you’d need someone else’s opinion on those. Getting around the lake by *lancha* is cheap and quick...
It takes a good 3 hours to get from Panajachel to the airport. You can’t avoid the capital and its surrounding area, where traffic is heavy...
I’ll add a comment on Tikal and Flores. The little town of Flores isn’t interesting at all in my opinion, whether it’s the island or anything else. Okay, you see the lake, which is nice, but there are so many prettier ones in the world! A restaurant we enjoyed: Capitan Tortuga. And Tikal? I might shock some people, but we were a bit disappointed. We’ve visited Palenque, among others, which in my/our opinion is much prettier and has a better overall harmony that Tikal lacks. Sure, there’s all the magic and folklore around Tikal being lost in the jungle and only recently discovered. But the few ruins you can visit are in poor condition and sometimes suffer from unfortunate repairs.
With all that, I’d say for those planning a 2-week trip, it might be better to focus on Antigua and Atitlan, and maybe Chichicastenango. But I know, we always want to do it all...
Good evening, just a heads-up—don’t get it wrong.
If the temples at Tikal are intentionally left in their rough state (i.e., not "whitewashed"), it’s because—just in case you hadn’t noticed—there’s a sort of blackish moss that helps preserve the stone.
Without this moss, the stones would suffer erosion from the fairly heavy rains in the area.
A guide told me that.
Good evening, just a heads-up—don’t get it wrong.
If the temples at Tikal are intentionally left in their current state—meaning they’re not "whitewashed"—it’s because, in case you hadn’t noticed, there’s a sort of blackish moss that helps preserve the stone.
Without this moss, the stones would suffer erosion from the fairly heavy rains in the area.
A guide told me that.
Hello,
Yes, I understand. Actually, I might not have been very clear—it’s not that moss I find unattractive, but the rather massive cement reinforcements on some of the most important ruins you can visit. I get the need for reinforcement or consolidation, but in my opinion, the result isn’t very pleasing.
Of course, everyone will form their own opinion. For my part, having paid a pretty expensive round-trip flight from GUA to FRS (with TAG) for two people, just to spend 2 days/3 nights in Flores and visit Tikal, and considering what I’d seen at Palenque, Uxmal, and another site in the Yucatán (just to mention the Mayan sites), I can’t help thinking it was a lot of effort in both time and money—and that those efforts could’ve been better spent elsewhere.
Amérique Centrale › Guatemala / Nicaragua · 3 replies
Cet été, on part à 3 pour faire un tour de deux mois en amerique centrale. Essentiellement le guatemal et le nicaragua. Petit budget mais grande ambitions:)…
Voici notre itinéraire pour 15 jours au Guatemala. Vous semble-t-il cohérent en termes de distances pour ne pas faire des trajets trop longs? Si ce n'est pas…
Bonjour,
Nous envisageons 15 jours dans le Chiapas, nous avons déjà fait 3 semaines dans le Yucatan il y a 4 ans.
Que nous conseillez vous dans le Chiapas, notre idée serait de louer une voiture pour être libre de nous déplacer comme nous le souhaitons, nous serons 2.
Je vous remercie de vous conseils de vos bons plans logements restos visites, Merci
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Hi,
For those who’ve tried it, are Uber or similar services (if available—could you also let me know the names of local equivalents?) reliable and safe?
Thanks in advance.
Philippe
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips.
I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize.
We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days.
So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides?
Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.
Marilyne
Good evening,
We’re planning a long stay in Panama and Costa Rica (one of the perks of being retired), and I’m having a bit of trouble preparing for this trip.
I’ll start with Panama first, then move on to Costa Rica with my questions.
I’ll share my initial ideas a bit randomly—my partner is a bird enthusiast and photographer, so we’ll take our time in certain spots.
1) Late arrival in Panama City
2-3-4-5) Exploring the city—the canal, Gamboa Rainforest, Gatun Lake, Pipeline Road, and Soberanía National Park.
6-7: We’re thinking of heading to the San Blas Islands for 2 nights.
8: Return to Panama City
9-10-11: Renting a car to go to El Valle de Antón for 3 nights.
12-13-14: Heading to the Azuero Peninsula for 3 nights.
15-16-17: We’d love to visit Coiba Island, but it seems tricky to fit into our itinerary.
18-19-20: Boquete and Volcán Barú for 3 nights.
21: Drive to Almirante and head to the Bocas del Toro Archipelago.
22-23: 2 nights there.
24: Return, drop off the car, and cross the border on foot at Sixaola.
If any of you can help, thank you so much!
Christiane
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
