Back from Albania (1,000km by car)
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
LU
At the risk of drawing some harsh criticism, I’ll admit we were really disappointed: sure, this trip—taken at the end of September—was short (a week), but we’d planned this little road trip (1,000km by car) as a first scouting mission. We won’t be going back anytime soon!

First mistake: we flew into Tirana (from Marseille) when it would’ve been better to fly to Corfu and rent a car in the south of the country instead of staying in the capital, which frankly isn’t all that interesting. From Tirana, we headed east toward Lin, by Lake Ohrid (a very poor region facing Macedonia), then to Korça, which guidebooks call "the most pleasant city in Albania." From there, we drove to Gjirokastra, an old Ottoman town (170km of mountain roads that took us nearly 5 hours...), then further south to Butrint, near Greece. The goal of these stops? To visit UNESCO World Heritage sites. In Lin, 6th-century mosaics; in Korça, a remarkable icon museum; in Gjirokastra, the citadel. At Butrint, we fled at the sight of all the tour buses parked in front of "this major archaeological site in the Mediterranean" and headed back north! The entire Adriatic coast is undergoing severe overdevelopment: developers are destroying the coastline to attract even more tourists (11 million visited in 2024, while Albania only has 3 million residents). We preferred to leave the coastal road (in excellent condition, a future highway) to visit Berat, an Ottoman town topped by a citadel. Our favorite spot. Why were we so disappointed? Villages without charm, outskirts of major cities in advanced decay, trash along the roads... The weight of the communist dictatorship and forced industrialization over forty years is still felt everywhere. The country is recovering but betting on tourism. The result? Newly built villas for the newly rich, beaches near the capital already polluted... Too bad, because the natural landscapes are often stunning, the locals are welcoming (young people learn English, though their parents speak little), and prices remain very reasonable—except in the capital. We’d chosen to stay with locals as much as possible, but like in Croatia, families are turning their homes into guest houses (~35 € per night, hearty breakfast included). Renting the car cost us 312 € for a week (with an international rental company—it’s probably cheaper with a local one, but I prefer understanding the contract I sign), and we cautiously took the optional insurance. Just so you know: Albanians drive fast, seem unfamiliar with traffic rules, overtake before curves, ignore yellow lines, and rarely use turn signals...)
C.L
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi Carine,

I can understand your reaction, but it seems to me that it’s mostly the gap between your expectations and reality that’s the issue. Personally, I like Tirana, but don’t expect a cheap country—the development is rapid, traffic is very dense, and the Italian and American influence is strong. How would you have gone from Corfu to southern Albania? The "sprawling city with more or less clean wastelands" style isn’t unique to Albania; you’ll find it pretty much everywhere—in North Macedonia, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova, and even Greece... And driving is a matter of convention—I actually found Albanians quite cautious on that front recently, with lots of very peaceful electric taxis. Next time, try Shkodër—maybe more your style, with a side trip to Bosnia.

Michel
CA Caroki ·
Hi there! You’re being a bit harsh on Tirana! The city is worth a detour—it’s fascinating with its mix of styles. There are Enver Hoxha’s bunkers (the dictator from the communist era), which are fascinating to visit, especially with a local guide whose family experienced the dictatorship (we found one through Goalbania). Then there are the buildings from the Italian Mussolini period with beautiful architecture, plus a few monuments in the center... In short, you can easily spend an informative and enjoyable day there.

Of course, the country isn’t the cleanest right now—they’re focusing more on developing their economy than cleaning up streams and coastlines, but hopefully that’ll change! That said, there are also the UNESCO World Heritage cities, which you clearly enjoyed and are truly special. And the landscapes are breathtaking—narrow, deep canyons that are accessible, unlike anywhere else I’ve been, along with mesmerizing natural sites. The cuisine is delicious without being too unfamiliar: you can have stuffed eggplants followed by pizza (Italy isn’t far and once occupied the country, so pizza is part of the local cuisine!), grilled fish prepared with skill, then spiced rice balls...
PO Poste42 Veteran ·
Isn’t there a ferry that connects Corfu to Albania? If I remember correctly, there is one.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

I’m not sure if you’d call this a ferry, but it’s actually a really cool thing. https://finikas-lines.com/ Super Soviet-style ship.

Michel

Similar discussions

You might also like