Retour d'un circuit Tananarive-Tuléar-Isalo (Madagascar)
by Ramiaraka
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Comme promis, je vais vous décrire mon dernier voyage,
Nous avons pris l’avion depuis Tananarive destination Tuléar, pour commencer sur ce point nous avons commis une erreur car il fallait réserver les places 15 jour à l’avance pour bénéficier de 15% de réduction sur les vols interne d’Air Madagascar, c’est avec un peu de chagrin que je paie la note car si on avais un peu plus de temps nous aurions pris une voiture ( simple voiture comme une 405 ou une 309) pas besoin de 4x4 car l’état de la route est bonne en général ou le taxi brousse…..
Donc comme prévu l’avion décolle à 7h 30 pour arriver à Tuléar vers les coups des 9h, le temps de négocier le pris un taxi à l’aéroport pour aller à « l’Escapade » un hôtel sympa, j’ai pu négocier pour 10 000 Ar car souvent à l’allé le prix est négociable dans ces zones la car sinon ils repartent vide.
Juste après avoir posé nos affaires, nous avons passé un coup de téléphone au « quad du capricorne » pour savoir exactement le prix des quads puis nous sommes allés au centre de la ville pour chercher une voiture de location pour aller à Isalo Ranohira, nous avons pu trouver par chance sur les pancartes du restaurant « la terrasse » un numéros de téléphone, puis nous avons conclu avec ce prestataire de location la location de sa voiture une 309 rouge pour 2 jour d’utilisation avec chauffeur pour nous amener voir ces fameux paysages de western que je vais vous conté par la suite.
Une fois cela fini, nous avons pris le temps de manger la croute pour enfin commencer nos vacances, direction la location de quad, pour cela nous avons eu le malheur de prendre des pousse- pousses dressé à l’arnaque, heureusement que nous avons peu nous en sortir après quelques minutes d’explication, moralité de l’histoire, ne pas prendre de pousse que si vous avez négocié
Une fois nos quads en main, nous avons pris la direction du sud de la ville de Tuléar, qui n’est autre que Sarodrano. Apres 10 minute de bitume (pour se familiariser et à prendre en main cet engin qui est d’une facilité déroutante), nous atteignons enfin la bifurcation pour aller vers notre destination, la enfin nous allons exploiter nos quads, car la route est en fait un piste idéal pour le quad, alors on commencer par s’éclater, mais je tiens à préciser qu’il ne faut pas trop prendre de risque pour les nouveaux, puis ensuite nous sommes arrêtés à la grotte de Sarodrano pour y faire un petit bain à l’eau douce moyennant une modique somme de 1000 Ar par personne à l’entré, mais cela valais le détour car c’est une super baignade !!!, nager avec les poissons, se rafraichir, voir une belle œuvre de la nature, puis bien sur avoir un aperçu global de la baie de Sarodrano ou une presque ile cela dépend c’est comme l’histoire du verre à demi plein ou à demi vide. Il est à, noté que pour certaines personnes cette endroit est tabou, enfin je ne sais pas vraiment car depuis toujours j’ai nagé sans avoir de problème….
Puis une fois rafraichi par cette eau douce, nous reprenons nos quad en direction de la plage pour exploiter à 100% nos machines, trop bien, puis nous poussons plus notre exploration du coin, nous nous hasardons vers les dunes du coin, mais je tiens à dire qu’une « dune » ne cache pas forcément une autre. C'est-à-dire qu’il faut toujours faire très attention.
Une fois satisfait de cette endroit nous avons pris la direction de la baie de « saint augustin » histoire de voir une autre baie formidable, mais dommage qu’a mis parcours notre réserve d’essence est au plus bas, nous devons rebrousser chemin sous peine de regretter de ne pas avoir loué de VTT.
Sur la route une des personnes qui nous accompagne fais une sortie de route, pas trop méchant mais quelques bleu, tout cela à cause d’un enfant qui a voulu faire peur à notre cher conducteur chevronné de quad. Donc le retour ce fait dans le calme, mais détour obligé vers une pharmacie pour de la Bétadine, et autre pansements pour bobo.
Nous rendons nos quad et nous payons à contre cœur la note des futures réparations.
Pour nous remettre de nos émotions fortes de la journée, nous sommes allés au bar la « bernique », comme d’habitude je prend des tapas : « beignet de piment », un régal puis après quelques verres, nous décidons de choisir un restaurant, nous avons le choix entre 3 resto : « la maisons », mais dommage celui-ci n’est pas ouvert le lundi, donc nous avons opté pour « le refuge », élu meilleure table une certaine année, comme elle se trouve un peu loin du bar nous nous décidâmes de prendre un taxi, manque de pot pas de taxi dans la ville, enfin presque pas du tout, donc nous décidâmes de marcher ver s le restaurant l’ « escapade ».
Je vais continuer de conter ce voyage mais voici quelques photos prises.
Que la terre est petite, mais pourquoi je n'ai jamais rencontré Beyonce
Super, on attends la suite avec impatience 😇
Fait gaffe, tes photos ne sont pas passées, surement trop lourdes !!
Fait gaffe, tes photos ne sont pas passées, surement trop lourdes !!
"Nous savons comment meurent les africains, mais jamais comment ils vivent" H. Mankell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kindofblue_1
merci
peux tu nous donner qqes precisions sur les prix de location voiture et quad??
et aussi les prix resto et hotel
c est pour se faire une idee du cout de la vie a tulear ou je ne suis pas alle depuis 2002
merci
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Bonjour!!!🙂
Très beau récit et pour quand le deuxième tome!!!!!!!😉
Oui, moi aussi, je serais intérêssé par le prix de location d'un quad!!🙂
J'attend avec impatience, la suite de ton récit!😎
Veloma
Très beau récit et pour quand le deuxième tome!!!!!!!😉
Oui, moi aussi, je serais intérêssé par le prix de location d'un quad!!🙂
J'attend avec impatience, la suite de ton récit!😎
Veloma
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Très intéressant le circuit. Pour ceux qui veulent faire comme lui, un petit tuyau pour moins de dépenses: taxi brousse de tana à tuléar ( la route est impéc), et location de voiture légère comme t'as fais.
Elles sont ou les photos?
Ton récit me donne une envie de retourner ds mon pays, c'est surttt une fois en France qu'on se rend le plus compte à kel point ce pays est unique.
On attend la suite .....
Oui tu as raison le taxi brousse est tout à fait possible, mais pas à faire en un seul trajet, les reins des Vazahas sont pas adaptés 😉
Avantage : contact avec la population 😉 Inconvénient : On peut s'arréter prendre des photos 😕
CHAQUE récit ici nous donne envie de retourner dans ton pays 😉😉😉😉😉
Veloma !
Avantage : contact avec la population 😉 Inconvénient : On peut s'arréter prendre des photos 😕
CHAQUE récit ici nous donne envie de retourner dans ton pays 😉😉😉😉😉
Veloma !
"Nous savons comment meurent les africains, mais jamais comment ils vivent" H. Mankell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kindofblue_1
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Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details: Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo 220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue. Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue. Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina. Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers) Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve 135 km, 6 hours Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava 100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs" Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo 3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts 310 km, 9 hours by minibus Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track. Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family. Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family. Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra. Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more) Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport. Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
Trip details: Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo 220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue. Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue. Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina. Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers) Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve 135 km, 6 hours Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava 100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs" Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo 3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts 310 km, 9 hours by minibus Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track. Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family. Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family. Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra. Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more) Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport. Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
If anyone has stayed at this eco-lodge, I’d love to get some info.
Thanks
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau? Thanks!
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau? Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
hi everyone, are there any rental car models you’d recommend for 3 weeks on the island?
compact or mid-range?
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks! Gigi
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks! Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12) Duration: 2 to 3 weeks Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan: - A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches - We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints - A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes - A safe destination
Our thoughts so far: - New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++ - Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think? - Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^ - Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options: - French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip? - Hawaii: same question—too far? - Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Blanche & Nicolas
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12) Duration: 2 to 3 weeks Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan: - A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches - We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints - A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes - A safe destination
Our thoughts so far: - New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++ - Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think? - Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^ - Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options: - French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip? - Hawaii: same question—too far? - Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Blanche & Nicolas
Hey everyone,
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major... So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Thanks
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major... So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Thanks
Hi
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
hi there
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
Hello!
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
Thanks! !
Thanks! !




