Retour de dix jours à Madagascar
by Polorun
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Dix jours à Madagascar.
Arrivée le 23 Octobre à Tuléar venant de La Réunion, le taxi demandé ‘ chez Alain’ est bien là, pas de soucis pour rejoindre l’hôtel, il est 22 h00. Installation dans le bungalow numéro 12. La chambre est un peu vide (pas de placard, pas de cintre, sanitaire très vétuste) pas de soucis la nuit, peu de bruit, cadre très agréable !!! Petit déjeuné et je fonce en ville pour changé de l’argent…. 45 minutes pour obtenir de l’argent, retour à l’hôtel en pousse pousse, première arnaque !! Le pousse me dit 5000, je lui dis ok, mais à l’arrivée il s’agit de 5000 ariary (ayant passé 8 mois à Mada il y a 3 ans je parle Franc malgache) soit 25000 fmg. Les taxis profitent du changement de monnaie, avec les touristes… le lendemain visite de la ville, (mon appareil photo numérique est en panne, il n’a pas du aimé le voyage…. les boules !!!) sous une chaleur torride et un vent chaud (ville, mal entretenue et peut enclin à visitée !!). Le lendemain visite au marseillais qui tiens un bar sur le front de mer, sympa… je demande à trouvé un transport pour Antsirabe, pas de soucis, il en parlera…. Retour à l’hôtel, et un repas correct, un Monsieur me demande déjà si je cherche un taxi pour Antsirabe, nous nous mettons d’accord sur 60 Euros jusqu'à Antsirabe le lendemain départ à 7 h00, (il s’agit du bus d’une agence de voyage regagnant Tana vide, qui ne verra pas la couleur de l’argent, mais le chauffeur est très content!!!). Départ par la route, avec un chauffeur et un guide dans un bus 16 places, je suis seul, nous traversons un village envahi par les chinois (à 2h00 de Tuléar) apparemment il y aurait du pétrole !!! Halte à 13h00 dans un village à mi chemin, repas en 45 minutes et on reprend la route. Après pas moins de 12 controles de police le long de la route, arrivée à Antsirabe à 21h30, j’avais réservé à l’hôtel chez Jenny, (12 euros /nuit) alors pas de problème….Bon accueil, et je suis logé dans un bungalow avec les croissements des grenouilles…..Le lendemain matin je découvre un cadre idyllique autour de moi, de l’eau, des fleurs, et le calme…. Les repas sont corrects, le prix également…je passe 4 jours dans cet hôtel (à conseillé) je revois des amis (et amies) dans cette ville que je connais bien pour y avoir déjà séjourné 8 fois je crois… Un bain tous les jours aux thermes, et j’ai la forme !!! Une visite et achat de pierres au mess s’impose, mais j’ai déjà pratiqué, et j’aime bien négocier, les marchants sont gentils et sympa(les prix descendent facilement par 2 voir 3 pour des pierres de qualité). Recherche d’un transport pour rejoindre Tana. Pas de soucis avec Madabus, bus de 16 places, confortable et à l’heure, départ devant l’Arche, un resto très sympa ou l’on mange très bien…2 heures30 de route et je suis à Tana à 23h00. J’avais réservé par internet à l’hôtel des Jardins. Dans le quartier de Antanamina je crois, je connais bien cet hôtel tenu par un français qui vient de la Réunion…Les chambres situées dans une grande maison à étage sont à 12 euros avec télé, les repas sont corrects, seul les petits papiers demandés par le patron aux serveuses (jacques) à la moindre commande sont un peu stressants…..Discipline !!!! Discipline !!! Madame Nana son épouse malgache (masseuse réputée) est quand à elle très sympa et prêt à rendre service, vos désirs sont toujours exécutés …Je cherche un réparateur d’appareil photo, incroyable mais vrai. Je trouve après avoir cherché dans 5 ou 6 boutiques, un réparateur super qu’il faut connaitre(ingénieur malgache) !! À ce jour, ça marche toujours, coût 60 euros…. (Quartier Analakil, le pavillon numéro 647)… en France, pour la même opération délai 3 semaines, coût 200 euros mini….je passe sur mon séjour à Tana, que je fréquente depuis 5 années…Si vous avez des questions…je suis à votre disposition. Bye…
Ps. 1 euros est égal à 2500 Ariary au 6 Novembre 2007...
jean paul de lyon, jeune retraité, 25 années dans le secteur du batiment!!!
Salut !
Le pousse me dit 5000, je lui dis ok, mais à l’arrivée il s’agit de 5000 ariary (ayant passé 8 mois à Mada il y a 3 ans je parle Franc malgache) soit 25000 fmg. Les taxis profitent du changement de monnaie, avec les touristes…
Ahahaha le coup classique 😉 Tu me diras on se fait toujours avoir une fois, et après on fait bien gaffe 😉 Mais là tu t'en sort pas trop mal .....
Le pousse me dit 5000, je lui dis ok, mais à l’arrivée il s’agit de 5000 ariary (ayant passé 8 mois à Mada il y a 3 ans je parle Franc malgache) soit 25000 fmg. Les taxis profitent du changement de monnaie, avec les touristes…
Ahahaha le coup classique 😉 Tu me diras on se fait toujours avoir une fois, et après on fait bien gaffe 😉 Mais là tu t'en sort pas trop mal .....
"Nous savons comment meurent les africains, mais jamais comment ils vivent" H. Mankell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kindofblue_1
Salut!!!😉
merci pour les bonnes adresses, je note cela me servira!!!🙂
le coup des 5000 super et un grand classique crois moi cela m'est arrivé mais à T/VE🙂😄😏
Veloma et merci encore pour ton récit super!!!!!😛
merci pour les bonnes adresses, je note cela me servira!!!🙂
le coup des 5000 super et un grand classique crois moi cela m'est arrivé mais à T/VE🙂😄😏
Veloma et merci encore pour ton récit super!!!!!😛
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
tu sembles bien connaitre Tana, as tu des bonnes adresses et des incontournables à voir, un peu moins classiques que le Palais de la Reine??
on m'a dit "Tana, c'est moche, c'est pollué, y a rien à faire, en une journée, c'est bouclé", j'aime pas trop ce genre de sentence, et comme je n'ai pas trop de temps...( 15 jours de Majunga à Tuléar en passant par Tana!!!)
combien de temps me conseilles tu d'y consacrer (même si j'ai bien compris que si tu y viens depuis 5 ans c'est que cela ne doit être facile d'en faire vite le tour!!)
merci pour tes infos
Val97650
je t'avoue que je connais mieux Tana la nuit, le jour, dur les mendiants Avenue de l'indépendance, dur les rues sales!!!! je ne reste jamais au Centre sauf pour déjeuné!!!! autour de tana, plein de choses à voir!!!..bye
jean paul de lyon, jeune retraité, 25 années dans le secteur du batiment!!!
il faut pas non plus exagerer meme si depuis qqes temps je reste pas plus de 36 heures a tana mais je connais depuis plus de 40 ans
il y a quand meme des choses a faire a tana pour achats (souvenirs bijoux produits locaux) le parc de tsimbazaza, ballades dans les rues de divers quartier, les marchés
et aussi le soir pas mal d endroits pour la musique et spectacle
pour ma part je loge toujours dans l hyper centre (avenue de l independance) bcp plus facile pour les deplacements on peut faire bcp de choses a pied et on trouve facilement des taxi pour les courses lointaines
en plus pour les demarches (change, billets avion, et autres bcp plus facile)
au centre le soir plein de resto tres proche et surement les meilleur qualite /prix de tana
le centre a quand meme bpc change depuis qqes annees
sale : ici a bordeaux il y a bcp plus de crottes de chien qu a tana😉
c est une grande ville du tiers monde pas pire que les autres et se confronter a cela fait aussi partie du voyage arretons de faire "les chochottes"
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Bonjour!!!!😉
Tana n'est pas une ville sale, as tu déjà été dans d'autres capitales africaines!!!!!!😕
Franchement cette ville mérite d'être connue et presonnellement chaque année, j'y consacre minimun 3 ou 4 jours car il y a la ville bien sur mais aussi ces environs et crois moi, il y a beaucoup de choses à voir!!!😉
Je suis d'accord, le centre ville est très pollué mais à Cotonou cela n'est pas mieux!!!! la ville par elle même est construite sur des collines et cela lui donne un charme!!!🙂
Restes y deux jours et voilà
Veloma😎
Tana n'est pas une ville sale, as tu déjà été dans d'autres capitales africaines!!!!!!😕
Franchement cette ville mérite d'être connue et presonnellement chaque année, j'y consacre minimun 3 ou 4 jours car il y a la ville bien sur mais aussi ces environs et crois moi, il y a beaucoup de choses à voir!!!😉
Je suis d'accord, le centre ville est très pollué mais à Cotonou cela n'est pas mieux!!!! la ville par elle même est construite sur des collines et cela lui donne un charme!!!🙂
Restes y deux jours et voilà
Veloma😎
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
Salut,
ça a déjà été abordé là : http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=1136350
Bon voyage !
ça a déjà été abordé là : http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=1136350
Bon voyage !
"Nous savons comment meurent les africains, mais jamais comment ils vivent" H. Mankell
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kindofblue_1
Compte tenu de la durée de ton périple de Mahjunga à Tuléar il ne te restera certainement pas assez de temps pour apprécier cette ville à sa juste valeur. Cette ville est très grande, bâtie sur des collines et le Palais de la Reine n'est certainement pas la chose la plus spéctaculaire à visiter.
Il y a trois jours j'avais parcuru le quartier très vivant des 67 HA à pied.
Parcourir l'immense marché d'Andravohangi derrière le stationement des taxi brousse pour Mahjunga et pour Tamatave est très bien.
Un des villages du Père Pédro sur la route de Tamatave..................etc!
Beaucoup de gens jugent cette ville sur une impression qu'ils on eu en la traversant mais même pour moi qui n'est pas du tout citadin elle me surprend à chaque passage.
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Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major... So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
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Hi
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Thanks for your replies
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
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In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
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In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
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Hi everyone,
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Do you have a contact, please?
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I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
hi there
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
Hello!
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
Thanks! !
Thanks! !
Hi everyone! I’ve put together an itinerary for Madagascar and would love to get your feedback if you can help—thanks!
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
I'm heading to Nosy Be (Madagascar) this coming October. This is my very first visit to this part of the Indian Ocean. I'd like to know if it's better to bring my bank card and withdraw cash from ATMs there, or if it would be preferable to bring cash in euros or dollars and exchange it for the local currency upon arrival.
Thanks!
/D





