Nothing’s stopping you from going to Ampefy (Madagascar)

Since the start of this trip to Ampefy set off something insane—an avalanche of reactions and so much enthusiasm—let’s keep this loop going so the momentum doesn’t fade.

We’re now on the third day after a journey from Tana to Ampefy that took us through a unique tapia forest before reaching the heart of Madagascar’s central highlands, then catching sight of Lake Itasy and Ampefy. The second day was spent wandering along the Lily River and toward the geysers before deciding on a morning paraglider flight. The third day began with a paragliding trip over the lake and extinct volcanoes before heading to Antsirabe. That’s where this post picks up from the previous one.

We hit the road around 10:30/11:00 AM for Antsirabe, leaving Ampefy and the Farihy Hotel after grabbing a quick breakfast in the village. The weather’s still nice, so we soak up the last bits of sunshine and blue sky before the afternoon storms roll in. We take the RN43 until Sambaina, where we join the RN7. It was rehabilitated not too long ago, and the stretch between Faratsiho and Sambaina is even excellent. That said, the first few kilometers from Ampefy to Soavinadriana are a bit of a purgatory—the road’s untouched, just like they say, "authentic." Not great, but thankfully it’s a short stretch that gradually climbs toward Soavinadriana, overlooking rice paddies and, at the start, plenty of chayote plantations (also called christophine or chouchou). This veggie acts like a passion fruit with its tendrils and vertical growth along bamboo trellises. It’s delicious with peanut sauce and also makes jam for pigs that seem to love it.

Once in Soavinadriana, we get back on the rehabilitated portion—it’s not *amazing*, but it’s still really good. Hardly any potholes or badly degraded sections that force you to slow down too much. Until Faratsiho, we cross the Kitsamby Valley, where the river has carved its way through the highlands. We descend steeply at first, with the Kitsamby far below to our left, then cross it on a narrow one-way bridge before climbing higher than we descended to reach Faratsiho, the highest town in Madagascar, in the heart of Vakinankatra. Besides the stunning escarpment of the Kitsamby Valley, this stretch lets you drive kilometers along high moors and hills with likely peaty, poor soil where what’s called *tanety* farming is practiced. The recurring village names with *Tanety* (like Antanety, Tanetibe) confirm it: rainfed crops on slopes or hilltops—upland rice, corn, cassava (which doesn’t yield much here), sweet potatoes, and potatoes (*ovimbazaha*, or "vazaha’s eggs"). Thorny thickets dot the gentle slopes and hills, and the dark soil gives the landscape a somewhat somber tone, especially on cloudy days. In the valleys where it’s possible, newly planted rice paddies brighten the scene with their tender green. We then enter the side of a valley before arriving at a vast irrigated plain fed by several rivers—fifty shades of green. A harlequin checkerboard of fields, canals, rice nurseries, and *dobo* (small dikes), where industrious farmers have used all their know-how to connect every plot in an infernal puzzle. It’s just stunning. We climb a bit more, passing one or two waterfalls, including one dedicated to the Virgin, before continuing to Sambaina. Another area of highlands and peatier soil, the kingdom of corn and forests destined for massive charcoal production. The agricultural landscapes are once again gorgeous, leading to the immense irrigated perimeter of Ambohibory, which signals the junction with the RN7 (we actually drive alongside it on the RN7).

Then we’re back on the RN7—its potholes, traffic, struggling trucks coughing pathetically with every bump, and drivers swerving their minibuses or SUVs to find the best path through the chaos of pedestrians, panicked animals, and frustrated vehicles. Less than 40 kilometers takes over an hour to reach Antsirabe and the Couleur Café Hotel. Well-located on the ring road and just steps from downtown, it has a beautiful garden, spacious bungalows, and large rooms in lovely colonial-style houses. A touch of the past in today’s Madagascar. The large dining room serves family-style meals with Malagasy influences and typical dishes. It’s good but not mind-blowing—slightly disappointing given the hotel’s promise for its cuisine.

The next day, a peaceful walk on the paved streets toward downtown, passing old villas—some restored, some crumbling—the Hôtel des Thermes with its huge garden, grand staircase, and woodwork, the suite where the King of Morocco lived in exile, and the 21st-century wreck of a palace from times gone by. If you look closely, you might find Sleeping Beauty and her slumbering court around a corner. A melancholic stroll that continues to the Baths building and its small lake before heading back to the cathedral via little alleys. It’s beautiful like what once was, and sad like what could be. But there’s no time for nostalgia—life goes on, and it’s the Malagasy who are writing their own history now, as they wish or at least as they can. The lake is now used for washing vehicles, and near the Hôtel des Thermes, there are spaces for kids’ games, money-making, and eating *masikito* with a THB or other drinks. Further on, a bigger festival with countless stalls and human-powered merry-go-rounds where kids play and dream.

We prepare to leave this mirage of the past wrapped in modernity, hoping the journey continues in Antsirabe, a town proud of its history but also of what it will become.

As for the RN7, we’ve seen it all—disastrous sections, especially leaving Antsirabe, and nothing remarkable until Tana anyway. The road alternates between completely wrecked and just not great. Heavy traffic slows everything down in the worst stretches. We stop in Behenjy for some foie gras and in Ambatolampy for a bit of handicrafts before arriving in Tana after 5 hours of driving. Long.

All in all, this 4-day loop is worth trying either as a weekend or 3-day trip just for Ampefy and its activities (there’s *so* much more to do beyond what we did), or for the loop itself to then continue beyond Ampefy via the RN43. In my opinion, this stretch offers the best way to discover the highlands’ countryside and its diverse agricultural landscapes in the most comfortable conditions over such a distance.

I even think the RN7 descent should now include Ampefy—whether you stop there or not—because it lets you arrive in Antsirabe after seeing landscapes you won’t find elsewhere, and in conditions that are easier on fragile backs and vehicles. Instead of Tana-Ambatolampy-Antsirabe, a Tana-Ampefy-Antsirabe route (with or without a stop) might be a good alternative to consider now (and probably even more so after the RN7 takes another cyclone or rainy season).

That’s all for this time—have a great weekend, everyone!

Yeah, I really love the Ampefy area. The good, well-maintained RN1 road, which was in great shape during my last visit (which makes you wonder why some roads stay in good condition while others don’t—RN 2, 4, 5, 6, 7; probably fewer trucks and better construction). It’s got beautiful landscapes with interesting sites all along the way. And the road to Antsirabe is stunning, with what I think is the highest road pass in Madagascar. I thought it was fully finished, but apparently there’s still a rough stretch left. Either way, it’s definitely worth taking if you’ve got the time for the Tana–Antsirabe route.

Hello, great description of Antsirabé—a town I’d kind of forgotten about. It’s exactly like that… like the sleeping beauty, going back to the early 20th century.