Solo road trip in Algeria

Hi, In Djanet or Tamanrasset, crossing the Sahara is still a long way off. From Djanet to Tamanrasset, it's best not to break down or leave the track. Relations with Algeria aren't great at the moment, so permits might be tough to get. Plus, in my opinion, it's not without risks in southern Algeria. This forum is more about cozy trips and cruises than African adventures... so getting recent info might be tricky. PS: The ideal time for the Sahara is from December to February.

Relations with Tunisia are fine, unlike relations with Morocco, which are tense due to Western Sahara. For southern Algeria (at least around Djanet), I’ve been going there for two years and haven’t had any incidents to report... But is there really such a thing as zero risk in the world? 🤔 Best time for the Sahara: November (excellent) to February, while March can bring its share of sandstorms 🙁

If you have your Algerian visa, it’s possible to cross from Tunisia into Algeria (we met some tourists who did it in early November), but I can’t tell you the exact name of the border crossing. For the Djanet region, no problem since you’ll need to be accompanied for the Tadrat, the Sefar, etc. Around Tamanrasset, the area is *heavily* monitored because of its proximity to Mali 🇲 and the limited number of places to visit.

Hi there, I went to Algeria in 2023 (got a 40-day visa from the consulate in Bordeaux). Took the Corsica Ferry from Marseille—you’re already in the vibe there. I was the only Caucasian with my Toyota. The welcome was really friendly, and the Algerian passengers were often very curious. I slept without a cabin, so in the hallways, and that’s where I quickly encountered an Islam I didn’t know, one that’s anti-Western and about dependency. Arrived in Béjaïa after 10 hours of waiting before finally reaching the checkpoint. I started complaining to the Algerians about the zealous customs searches (no comment).

Arrived at 12:00 PM, so it was midnight by the time I got out, ate something, and finally found a hotel.

Set off for the south the next day—departmental roads, then the RN 1, and the parade of migrants and makeshift camps began before Ghardaïa. Nothing much there.

In Ghardaïa, my agency forced me to take an escort. I was there a week after Antoine de Maximi, and I can confirm: surveillance is everywhere, but it was benevolent as far as I was concerned.

Don’t forget to always top up your diesel—it’s *really* cheap!! To avoid anxiety or ending up with a tank full of low-quality fuel.

Then, the omnipresence of the gendarmerie will be even more noticeable—checkpoints and hotel inspections. Your guide usually doesn’t pay for accommodation, but it’s up to you to feed them.

There are a lot of migrants on the N1; they’re employed (exploited) by the Algerian economy and can be forcibly returned in convoys of minibuses tightly supervised by the gendarmerie. You won’t be allowed to pick them up hitchhiking (only farmers have that right).

I managed to reach the Draa Valley after a morning of negotiations, even though it was officially approved by their tourism and foreign affairs departments. After that, it was a game of cat and mouse and more negotiations just to be able to camp.

In Tam, I found a campsite and slept in my roof tent. I was escorted by the police and an intelligence officer (for a "visit") throughout my stay (two nights).

I left for Assekrem with a Tuareg guide—that was way more enjoyable than the previous one. We joined a convoy to reach Djanet, visited Tadrart with my guide, and saw a lot of tourist groups. But it’s truly one of the most beautiful deserts in the world.

In conclusion, Algeria is a country worth visiting, but the infrastructure is still lacking, and the population is monitored and cautious when it comes to speaking out about their dictatorship. Fuel can be hard to come by in the south. Islam is becoming increasingly radicalized. Having traveled in a few Central Asian dictatorships, Algeria is the only country I wouldn’t return to. Hope this helps!