Tunisian Impressions (Live)

■ Regarding currency exchange, there are plenty of exchange offices on Avenue Bourguiba, but the exchange rate is either the same as at the airport or worse, so you might as well do it upon arrival at the airport.

■ I paid 20 TND (6 €) for the taxi from the airport to the hotel. I asked the price beforehand and didn’t negotiate because it matched what I’d been told.

Several people advised me not to take taxis at the arrivals level but to go upstairs and take one that had just dropped someone off at departures—that’s what I did.

I’ll post photos from my trip when I’m back in France.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Hi Marie, Thanks for the info about your arrival in Tunis. For the trip from the airport, that’s the right price—great that you weren’t overcharged as soon as you arrived! Not surprised you didn’t see many people in town early in the evening. It’s one of the very noticeable contrasts in Tunisia: in summer, people stay out late, but in winter, everyone heads home early. Night falls around 6:30 PM. The hotel you chose is indeed very well located between the old city and the modern one. You’re just a stone’s throw from the central market, which is really worth spending some time in—whether it’s the fish market, the vegetables, the cheeses, or the florists’ corner. You’re also not far from the French Institute of Tunisia, so don’t hesitate to check out what events they have going on. Nearby is Saint Vincent de Paul Cathedral, which is open for visits, unlike the mosques... When you head into the medina, before reaching the government square and the ministries, look for the magnificent Ed Dar store and its wonders on every floor. Ask to go up to the terrace for a view of the city and especially the Zitouna Mosque from above. Diwan, the little bookshop across from one of Ed Dar’s entrances. Next door, you’ll find the cheapest foutas in Tunisia—almost cheaper than in Mahdia, where they’re often made. Around the ministries, the Dar El Jeld hotel-restaurant is worth a look. In these neighborhoods, there are lots of palaces, small mosques, madrasas, and charming little shops that make exploring the souk really enjoyable. In Carthage, it’s interesting to visit the Acropolium, the former Saint Louis Cathedral—a visit outside the ten sites included in the group ticket. Have fun! 🤗

In winter, people go home early.

The hotel you chose is indeed very well located between the old city and the modern city.

You should look for the magnificent Ed Dar store and its wonders on every floor.

The Dar El Jeld hotel-restaurant is worth a look.

Hello,

For Avenue Bourguiba after dark, I wouldn’t say it was deserted—quite the opposite! During the day, you don’t see them much on this avenue. I think they’re scared of the people and traffic, but in the evening, they come out. It’s incredible how many cats there are in Tunis!

The Royal Victoria Hotel offers great value for money and location. There are quite a few English-speaking guests, likely because of its history. This hotel is said to have hosted Winston Churchill and Prince Charles back when the building was the British Embassy. I have a room with a small terrace and a view of Bab El Bhar, one of the gates to the medina (it’s lit up at night). You can also hear the call to prayer very clearly, so I really feel like I’m in the thick of it!

As for the Ed Dar store, I didn’t have to look for it—someone took me there (a tout). I don’t think I would’ve found it on my own! The rugs in the store are gorgeous, and the view from the terrace is stunning, especially since the wind had cleared the sky.

Regarding Dar El Jeld, I stopped by to eat, but they told me it was international cuisine, and I wanted Tunisian food. For my last two nights before heading back to France, I wanted to splurge and stay there, but I also want to see a Ramadan-night show at the Municipal Theatre or the Colosseum. I’d prefer a hotel closer by so I can walk back in the evening.

Bab El Bhar, one of the medina’s gates, is a real gate that’s closed at night:



■ THE VICTORIA HOTEL and the night view from my terrace:

Thanks for the live updates, Marie! I’ll be following along closely since I don’t know Tunisia at all, but it’s been catching my eye for a while now 😊 Christelle

Today I was planning to go to Carthage, so I headed to the train station that goes there, but the tracks were flooded, and I had to take a bus instead. I bought the ticket (1 TND, which is 0.30 €), but in the end, I didn’t go because there were too many people waiting for the bus, and the weather was really overcast—it looked like it was going to rain.

There were other nearby streets flooded too. I think they were opening the sewers because there was a foul smell.

■ I turned back toward the medina and along the way, I photographed some murals, some of which were under a bridge. I’d read that under the Republic Bridge, there had been political works erased after the Revolution (and replaced with more consensual ones). I don’t know if this was the same bridge, but right now, there are some really engaged pieces about international current events. I love street art when it’s political because the walls speak, and they say a lot about the countries we visit. In this case, the words were in Arabic, but the paintings were unmistakable.

■ A little further on, on Avenue Bourguiba, I went into a bookstore with lots of books in French (photo books, Arabic novels, essays, etc.). I love visiting bookstores in the countries I travel to because the books they highlight say a lot about the place—and just like with the murals, I wasn’t disappointed! I’ll go back because I always bring books home from my trips.

■ MEDINA OF TUNIS ♥️♥️♥️

A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s a real labyrinth where you shouldn’t hesitate to get lost. I spent a good part of the day there but didn’t see everything because there’s so much to explore: shops, artisans, panoramic views, etc.

You should also take the time to sip tea on the terrace of a café playing Arabic music. I had pine nut tea at a café near Dar El Jeld. There were tons of young Tunisians—there’s a high school nearby, and the owner told me, "The schools are empty, and the cafés are full!" What struck me is how much young people smoke—both girls and boys—and in Tunisia, you can still smoke inside cafés. There’s also shisha, which both men and women smoke.

● Note that to enter the courtyards of mosques and mausoleums, you need to wear a headscarf. You have to bring your own—they don’t provide them. I had my hair tied up and was wearing a beret, and they asked me to put the hood of my puffer jacket over it. I saw an Asian tourist take off her headscarf and clown around in the courtyard of Zitouna Mosque while men were praying nearby. I thought her behavior was really disrespectful, but when you travel, you know some tourists treat places of worship like amusement parks—everything’s just a spectacle to them.

● Also, there’s no "harassment" from the medina’s vendors trying to get you into their shops. I spent several hours there, and it only happened twice. Both times, I said right away that I’d just arrived in Tunisia and didn’t want to buy anything today.

● Some items aren’t made in Tunisia, but many are. I saw artisans making shoes, silver-plated copper objects, chechias, and painting wooden furniture. I spotted a cute chechia shop where the owner, an older man, was really interesting and cultured.

Tomorrow, I’m planning to go to the Bardo Museum. The tram goes there, but I’m a little worried—it looks run-down, it’s packed, and it runs with the doors open, with passengers hanging more outside than inside...

































TO BE CONTINUED...

NATIONAL BARDO MUSEUM ❤️❤️❤️ (13 TND = 3.85 €)

Tunisia has the world's largest collection of Roman mosaics, mainly at the Bardo Museum but also at the Archaeological Museum in Sousse and the one in El Jem (I also plan to visit these two).

For me, the Bardo Museum is an exceptional place that would justify a trip to Tunisia all by itself! It’s housed in a stunning palace (with painted ceilings, ceramic tile panels, etc.) that’s the perfect setting for displaying magnificent mosaics. Some are enormous, practically stretching from floor to ceiling. The floor is partly covered in mosaics too, and most visitors are left in awe by so many wonders.

The marine mosaics room is spectacular, and the "Triumph of Neptune" at the entrance is just as impressive. Don’t miss the mosaic of Ulysses trying to resist the sirens' song or the one depicting Virgil between two muses.

The museum also features beautiful statues of gods and goddesses, sarcophagi, and other treasures.

Plan for at least two hours to visit.

I took the tram to get there, but it wasn’t easy! First, you have to find the starting station. Then, you never know when the tram will arrive (long wait...). You don’t know when to get off because the tram is packed, and you can’t see the stops. You end up jumping off directly onto the tracks in a narrow space between the tram and a barrier. Plus, the Bardo stop isn’t right in front of the museum—you have to cross several busy streets with no traffic lights or officers to stop the cars. You have to run across (and sometimes walk on the road because there are barriers on the sidewalk)!

In short, it’s better to take a taxi, even if the tram is cheap (1 TND one way, which is 0.30 €, and free on the return since there’s no ticket booth).

Luckily, Tunisians are very helpful, even when you don’t ask. On the way there, an elderly man made sure I got on the right tram with him (he’d heard me ask for the tram number at the ticket booth). A young girl repeated three or four times that when she got off, I should get off three stops later (and she even counted on her fingers: "Not the first, not the second, the third stop!"). And on the way back, a Tunisian man who had lived in Italy and spoke Italian with me walked me all the way to my hotel (I declined the coffee invitation).

On the street, if you ask for directions, people will often say, "Are you French? Welcome to Tunisia!" I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve heard that in the past two days.

I’ve already mentioned the many cats in Tunis (in a bookstore, I even saw an Italian book about them: *I gatti di Tunisi*). If you visit the Bardo Museum, you might spot a pretty white cat with blue eyes wandering calmly through the rooms.



























TO BE CONTINUED...

Thanks for these impressions from the day. Actually, the mosaics in the Bardo, Sousse, or El Jem museums are exceptional. 50 rooms in the Bardo, with walls and floors covered in mosaics. Much smaller, El Jem is my favorite—I really love the place. Between the amphitheater and the museum, it’ll be a great day. There are also some mosaics at the small museum in Mahdia. If the buses are as disastrous as they say, take taxis—they’re not expensive in Tunisia. Though it’s a shame for the social vibe. I’m still amazed at how people here put up with such appalling transport conditions where safety is completely absent. Have a lovely evening and a great day tomorrow.

I'm still amazed at how people here put up with transportation conditions that are downright unsafe.

I asked the gentleman who spoke Italian (he’s a former engineer) if people didn’t complain, and he told me, "Yeah, but nothing changes."

Otherwise, on the way there, while waiting for the tram, I saw a slightly surreal scene: when the tram going the other way left, a cleaning woman stepped onto the tracks to sweep them!

I forgot to mention that it’s tram number 4 that goes to the Bardo, in case some of you still want to risk taking this mode of transport...

The hotel had advised me to go by taxi, and I think that’s what most tourists do.

SIDI BOU SAID ❤️❤️

It's hard not to love Sidi Bou Said and not to fall for the crazy charm of its alleys with white houses, stunning blue studded doors, blue windows and balconies, and its ever-present cats!

The panoramic views of the sea and the city of Tunis are sublime. From the cemetery, which you can enter, the view is breathtaking.

Sure, Sidi Bou Said is super touristy (today there were loads of tourists, mostly Asians, French, Spanish, and Italians; I can't imagine what it must be like in summer!), but you just need to leave the main street and take a side alley to find yourself completely alone.

Sidi Bou Said is made for the sun, which enhances the blue and white of its walls. Today, the sun was out in full force—there wasn’t a single cloud, and the temperatures soared. Overnight, we practically went from winter to summer.

I wanted to visit the Center for Arab and Mediterranean Music (Baron d’Erlanger’s palace), but the entrance gate was open, and you can’t visit it because of ongoing work.

I visited DAR EL ANNABI (6 TND = 1.75 €) ❤️—a beautiful summer residence of a mufti (18th century). You can see a magnificent patio, a library, panoramic terraces, and more... At the entrance, it says tea is offered, but that’s not true. The welcome was rather cold.

I went to Sidi Bou Said by bus (1 TND each way). On the way there, the bus wasn’t too full, but on the way back, it was packed. Luckily, I had a seat both ways. While waiting for the bus, I chatted with two young women finishing their nursing studies in Tunis. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

Normally, there’s a train that makes the trip, but the tracks are still flooded. I thought it was from the heavy rains last week, but I just read an article saying it’s seawater from La Goulette and the old port of Tunis that overflowed! A few days ago, I wrote that streets near the station were also flooded, and according to this article, some people claim to have seen fish swimming there!































TO BE CONTINUED...

■ On the forums, I often see questions about alcohol sales in Muslim countries. In Tunis, I saw beer, Pastis, wine, etc. in Monoprix, but not at Magasin Général, where they had cans of "non-alcoholic malt-based drink."

■ Tomorrow is the first day of the holy month of Ramadan. I’ll see if there are any changes in activity, hours, etc...

Yesterday, I walked down a street with several date shops where they were constantly delivering crates. I was told it was for Ramadan.

For my last day in Tunis, I’ll have to go to the Marché Central, which isn’t far from my hotel. With Ramadan, there might be more activity for shopping for the iftar meal.

Good evening Marie, Tunisia is indeed a Muslim country, but the sale and consumption of alcohol aren't banned. I'm surprised that in Tunis, shops are still selling alcohol today. Here in Mahdia, stores that sell alcohol have been closed for several days. On Fridays and during Ramadan, it's impossible to buy alcohol here. You can let us know tomorrow if things change. However, since alcohol consumption isn't banned, restaurants and cafés will continue serving alcohol to customers. I’ve seen servers refuse to serve customers they assumed were Muslim. I don’t know what the law says, but I think regardless of your religion, you have the right to consume. You might notice starting tomorrow that some cafés will have their windows covered with newspapers or white paint—it seems this is to allow people who want to drink discreetly. If you drive between cities or go to the beaches, you’ll see Celtia cans or bottles, the Tunisian beer, everywhere. Yes, Tunisians often break their fast with a glass of water or milk and dates. They’re on every table during Ramadan. Let us know what the market’s like tomorrow—usually, people don’t go shopping very early during this period. It’s a very busy market. Did you ask if the work at the Baron’s house is expected to last much longer? It’s a real shame you didn’t get to see it. But it seems you were still charmed by Sidi Bou Said, not too damaged by recent events? Is Carthage not on your itinerary? Have a good day tomorrow.

If you don’t know there’s been bad weather, you won’t notice anything unusual in Sidi Bou Said, especially if it’s your first time there. I don’t know how long the renovations at the Baron’s Palace are scheduled to last.

About alcohol, yesterday at Monoprix I saw Tunisian men in front of me at the checkout with a huge amount of beer and pastis, and what caught my attention was the cashier’s attitude—she clearly showed her disapproval by making a disgusted face, turning her head as if she didn’t want to see, closing her eyes, etc. Today, out of curiosity, I checked at Magasin Général, and there was no alcohol (I don’t know about Monoprix because I didn’t go there today). After your explanations, I think those men were stocking up on alcohol before it runs out, and at Magasin Général, there wasn’t any because they removed it.

Glad you’re here to clarify some points!

Today is the first day of the holy month of Ramadan, and while there are some changes, nothing is insurmountable for tourists—you just need to adapt.

■ Cafés, tea salons, and restaurants are closed. On Avenue Bourguiba, while the terraces are closed, there are restaurants open indoors for tourists, and my hotel’s restaurant is also open (though the terrace is closed).

■ Bakeries and supermarkets are open. Usually, the latter close at 8:00 PM, but today they’re closing at 5:00 PM or 5:15 PM.

■ In the medina, the shops are open, but cafés are not. When I went there on the first day, it was packed, but today there was almost no one—just a few tourists. The shops started closing at 3:00 PM. From my terrace, I just saw the last ones shut (it’s not even 4:30 PM yet), and Victory Square is nearly deserted! The change is drastic because this square, which leads to the medina, is usually lively—street vendors (selling jasmine, pineapple, etc.), people coming and going, groups of young boys, tourists photographing Bab-El-Bahr, and so on... But now, in just a few minutes, the square emptied out!

CENTRAL MARKET OF TUNIS❤️

This morning, it was packed, especially the meat and fish sections. I don’t know if it’s always like this or if it’s because of Ramadan. Either way, I recommend checking it out—the fish area is a must-see, with vendors shouting and all kinds of fish: live eels, octopus, cuttlefish, etc... There are also tons of dates—I think I’ll bring some back to France.

In the end, I didn’t go to Carthage because I don’t know the site or bus schedules during Ramadan. Anyway, I’d like to come back to Tunisia in the spring—maybe it’ll be better to visit then than now.

I bought a ticket for a concert on February 28th at the Municipal Theatre of Tunis as part of the Medina Festival for Ramadan nights. The seats aren’t too expensive—I got one of the best spots for 50 TND (15 €).

For those who’ll be in Tunis during Ramadan, I recommend checking out the Municipal Theatre’s program and looking up info online because there are quite a few shows and concerts during the Ramadan nights, both at the Municipal Theatre and in the medina.

Since the concert is at 10:00 PM, I booked a room across from the Municipal Theatre at the Hôtel El Hana International (120 TND = 35.50 €). While I was at the front desk, a Tunisian woman came in asking for beer! I thought, *She didn’t plan ahead like the guys at Monoprix the other day!* (Today, I didn’t see any alcohol at Monoprix.)

I’ll head out again at nightfall to see if the city becomes livelier at iftar...



























TO BE CONTINUED...

Later in the afternoon, some young people came to play soccer on Place de la Victoire, but it wasn’t as lively as the previous days. By nightfall, they had left, and the square became deserted again.

I went out around 8:00 PM, and there wasn’t much open. On Avenue Bourguiba, there was only the terrace of a snack bar and a café at one corner of Place de la Victoire. The previous days were pretty much the same, so in the evening, there isn’t much change during Ramadan when it comes to cafés and restaurants.

The real difference is probably around the Zitouna Mosque—I was told it’s packed during Ramadan (prayers last two hours).



AVENUE BOURGUIBA ❤️

This avenue is often called the Champs-Élysées of Tunis. You’ll find the Municipal Theatre of Tunis with its beautiful Art Nouveau façade, the French Embassy, the cathedral (always closed), and a few international clothing brands.

It’s quite pleasant with its trees and cafés (the one at the Municipal Theatre is really nice—I had almond tea there yesterday), but it’s still far from the Parisian Champs-Élysées. There are many very run-down buildings, and some adjacent streets are quite dirty and poorly lit at night.

Tomorrow, I’m heading to Sousse. I’ll need to leave early because I don’t know the bus schedules or frequency yet...

LA MOSQUEE ZITOUNA:

L'AVENUE BOURGUIBA



■ L'HOTEL AFRICA:



■ L'HOTEL EL HANA INTERNATIONAL where I stayed the last few nights:



■ SAINT-VINCENT-DE-PAUL CATHEDRAL:











TO BE CONTINUED...

SOUSSE ❤️❤️❤️

I went there by *louage*—more frequent and faster than the bus (price: 13.5 TND = 4 €). The trip takes 1h45, it’s direct, it doesn’t stop, but the ride isn’t very comfortable.

I booked the hotel the day before yesterday by email without giving my credit card number. I’m at Hôtel Médina (110 TND = 32.50 € for a double room; 80 TND for a single, but the bed is too small). The only advantage of this hotel is its location—in a traditional medina house, right next to the Great Mosque (I’ve been hearing religious chants for over an hour now). I think I’ll change hotels because the room is very basic (there isn’t even a bedside lamp), and they only turn the heating on at night, so the room is cold. Too bad, because I like the location.

Along the seaside promenade, lots of hotels and restaurants are closed. The vibe isn’t great—one hotel was even on fire, billowing thick black smoke over part of the promenade. I saw the firefighters arrive pretty quickly.

There are a lot of Russian tourists here. In the shops, there are even signs in Russian. They’re dressed like they’re in the Caribbean—shorts and flip-flops. A shopkeeper asked a couple if they weren’t cold.

Like in Tunis, shops and stalls close early because of Ramadan. Markets and food stores are packed, and you can find pastries everywhere—each one more delicious than the last. I think some are Ramadan specialties.

A shopkeeper told me that in a few days, the medina will stay open in the evenings.

Sousse is a quiet city. Its medina is a UNESCO site, and I love getting lost in it, just like in Tunis (you have to leave the main shopping streets).

The city also has walls around the medina and a Great Mosque that’s unique because it doesn’t have a minaret.





























RIBAT ❤️ (8 TND = 2.36 €)

This fortress is the oldest monument in Sousse’s medina. You can climb to the top of the watchtower via a narrow spiral staircase. The view is spectacular—over the city, the sea, the medina, and the courtyard of the Great Mosque.





TO BE CONTINUED...

At nightfall, I went for a stroll through the deserted medina, which was poorly lit in places. The wind was blowing hard, and the alleyways had a mysterious, slightly eerie feel. A few cafés were open, but there weren’t any customers—it was still early, and people were probably eating after the fast.

Anyway, I love the medina, day or night.

Tomorrow, I’m planning to visit the archaeological museum and continue "exploring" the medina.

During Ramadan, the Great Mosque can be visited until 12:30 PM (non-Muslims are only allowed in the courtyard, not inside the mosque itself). I’ll head there tomorrow too.

Hi Marie, I’m revisiting some things you mentioned about Tunis—generally, the cathedral is open at certain hours and services are held there. So, are there any works going on? I see you’ll be changing hotels when you return; the Hana is also very well located but in a pretty sorry state of neglect. Great that you managed to book some evenings for when you’re back! About your trip to Sousse, the *louage* is super practical and friendly, but the drivers have a reputation for driving with their phone and coffee in hand, racing against the clock... For Tunis/Sousse, the train is very convenient and might be less stressful. I don’t know what your plans are after, but from Sousse, you can take the metro to Monastir and Mahdia. It’s a different station from the one for long-distance trains. Boujafar, the beach in Sousse, used to be called the Copacabana of Tunisia. It’s heartbreaking to see those abandoned hotels after their owners seized agricultural land—it shows a kind of tourism that wasn’t well thought out and doesn’t meet today’s standards anymore. If you’re heading to the archaeological museum this morning, it’d be interesting to come back down through the upper part of the souk. There are lots of little shops and nice restaurants in that area that you might miss if you enter the souk from the Great Mosque. If you get the chance to visit the Am Taïeb Museum, it’s a lovely spot. Also in Sousse, not too far away, check out the activities at the *Institut français*—there are events and evening gatherings for Ramadan. I’m not sure if Am Salem, near the theater, is open this Ramadan, but it’s always a pleasure to grab a fruit juice there. Have a wonderful day.

Hi Michèle,

For the Tunis Cathedral, I don’t think there’s any construction work going on, but every time I’ve passed by, the gate was closed—both in the morning and the afternoon.

Given the price of the Hôtel Hana, I suspect the room isn’t great, but since the concert at the Théâtre Municipal will end late, I’ll only have to cross the street (the Hôtel Africa is also near the theater—wonder if it’s any better?).

Boujafar has nothing to do with Copacabana, but I thought the vibe might be different in summer. I was curious what the Russian tourists were doing here; the Chinese are plenty, but they’re more into monuments and culture than beaches.

I was planning a day trip from Sousse to El Jem and maybe Monastir too, but since almost everything closes early, I decided to book a hotel in El Jem for tomorrow. Mahdia isn’t far, so I can go there, and then I’ve got Kairouan planned (I haven’t booked anything else yet, except in El Jem—I reserved by email yesterday without giving my credit card number).

PS: The weather’s gorgeous—sunny with not a cloud in sight, but it’s a little chilly in the shade.

SOUSSE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM ♥️♥️ ( 10 TND = 3 € )

It’s much smaller than the one in Tunis, but it has some stunning mosaics: the portrait of the God Ocean is a masterpiece, Medusa is hypnotic, the venatio scenes are magnificent, and so on...

You should plan at least an hour for your visit.









THE GREAT MOSQUE ( 5 TND = 1.5 € )

For non-Muslims, only the courtyard is accessible. You need to cover up (no shorts, bermudas, etc.), and a long robe with a hood is provided at the entrance.

When I was there, no one was praying, so you could take photos of the interior—the mihrab and minbar were lit up.

■ Today I went to the modern part of the city around iftar, at about 6:00 PM, and it was really surprising to see streets and avenues completely empty when just minutes earlier the traffic had been really heavy.

It’s also quite something to see the mosque square deserted, with religious chants playing from the loudspeakers, and just a few people hurrying to get home to eat or go to the mosque.

After 8:00 PM, people come back out and go to cafés, sing, etc. This morning in the medina, only two tourist cafés were open, with just three tourists seated.

■ Earlier, I mentioned the delicious Tunisian pastries, some of which are Ramadan specialties (I love "ktayefs"—they’re a calorie bomb, but so good!). There are also Tunisian breads that are amazing (I think some are made especially for Ramadan). Today, I tried "khobz mbesses," a yellow bread (turmeric?) with fennel seeds and others I don’t know (black seeds, maybe nigella?). It’s excellent and really soft. Anyway, I highly recommend trying Tunisian bread—they’re just as good as the pastries!

In Sousse, the Essoukri bakery-pastry shop, across from the Magasin Général, makes great bread and pastries.









TO BE CONTINUED...

EL JEM

I went there by shared taxi from Sousse. The ticket cost 6.8 TND (2 euros), and the trip took about 1 hour 15 minutes. I asked the driver where the hotel was, and a passenger who heard me walked me to the hotel on foot (no taxis in El Jem). This time, I didn’t get an invitation for coffee (it’s Ramadan), but to stay in touch via social media. I told him I don’t have a smartphone! (Which is true.)

There aren’t many hotel options in El Jem.

I’m staying at the Hôtel Julius. The room costs 145 TND (42.50 €), and it’s an excellent value for money. The room is huge with a massive bed, a safe, fridge, hairdryer, air conditioning, a bathtub, and a kettle. Plus, the receptionist—a young man studying design—is really friendly, and the room has a large window with an amazing view of the amphitheater. I feel like I have the Colosseum of Rome right in front of my room (I didn’t know there was a monument like this in Africa)!

I’m glad I didn’t try to do a day trip from Sousse because the amphitheater and archaeological museum have limited hours during Ramadan—they close at 3:00 PM. I’ll go tomorrow, but even from the outside, the amphitheater is impressive. It doesn’t seem much smaller than the Colosseum in Rome.

Like in Tunis and Sousse, around 6:15 PM, the streets empty out—it’s striking! The man who walked me to the hotel said that breaking the fast is a sacred moment. At the hotel, there’s a café, and I was told there’d be activity until 11:00 PM or midnight. I’d already noticed this in Sousse—after the iftar meal, people go out to cafés late into the night.

When I step out of my room, I see the café two floors below. At this hour (9:00 PM), it’s packed, completely smoky from cigarettes, and the clientele is exclusively male.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Hi Marie, thanks for this daily chronicle. If you're not afraid of the road, *louages* are definitely the most convenient way to get around. They run pretty often and aren’t too expensive. The amphitheater of El Jem is the largest Roman monument in Tunisia and the best-preserved in North Africa. Depending on the source, it seats between 25,000 and 30,000 people, and it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979. Every summer, there’s a symphony music festival, and the amphitheater is lit by countless candles—it’s magical! I’d like to revisit the prices you mentioned, especially hotel prices, which are quite low for Europeans. Unfortunately, they’re out of reach for many Tunisians. Since the Tunisian minimum wage is about 550 dinars (165 €) for 48 hours... The cost of living is obviously not the same... When you talked about what was on your in-flight meal tray—what you called a sort of quiche—it was probably a piece of *tajine*. Tunisian *tajine* is more like a thick, hearty omelet. I don’t know if you plan to visit Mahdia and stay overnight, but there are two nice little guesthouses there: *Dar Evelyne* and *Dar El Mahdia*. Have a great visit tomorrow and keep up the good work!

Hi Michèle,

■ For the Tunisair meal tray, yes, you're right—it was tajine. The gentleman next to me, the former cameraman, told me so.

■ About the *louages*: both times, the drivers drove carefully. The second one had his phone in his hand for a few minutes, but I'm used to taking *chicken buses* in Central America, and it takes a lot to scare me!

Over there, they drive like maniacs on narrow mountain roads. If you're at the back of the bus, you literally lift off your seat when you hit a speed bump! They pass on blind curves, watch videos on their phones, and more...

Here, I fell asleep on both *louage* trips—something I’ve never managed to do on a *chicken bus*, even though I’ve taken dozens of them! And I think the roads in Tunisia are in pretty good condition, at least on the two routes I took.

■ You're right, salaries are very low. At the Tunis hotel, the young woman who handled breakfasts told me she earned 600 dinars. When you give a small tip—say, the equivalent of two or three euros—they’re really happy and thank you warmly. You can tell they really need that money.

But the hotel in El Jem is an *excellent* value for money because it’s a high-end room. I mentioned the amenities, but there are also rugs, two chairs, a coffee table, a desk, etc... and the view of the amphitheater! The hotel café is chic, with armchairs covered in red fabric and mosaic tables.

All the hotel prices I mention include breakfast.

■ For the rest of the trip, it’s after 6 PM, and I still haven’t decided where I’m going tomorrow! I think it’ll be Kairouan. This morning, I booked a room by email without giving my credit card number, so I can change my mind—but I only have 6 days of vacation left...

■ The sun just set (I also have a nice view of the Great Mosque’s minaret and the sun setting behind it), and I just heard gunshots, like yesterday at the same time. I even saw smoke. I guess it’s to signal the moment of breaking the fast?

PS: It’s getting hotter and hotter....

EL JEM

THE AMPHITHEATRE ❤️❤️❤️

(12 TND = 4 euros for the combined Amphitheatre + Archaeological Museum ticket)

The "must-sees" depend on everyone's tastes, but for me, this site is truly a must-see in Tunisia.

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it's the third-largest Roman amphitheatre in the world after those in Rome and Capua, with a capacity of up to 30,000 spectators.

It has three levels of galleries in very good condition; the higher you go, the better the view, but the stairs are steep and the steps quite high.

I recommend going early before it gets too hot.

The amphitheatre hosts a music festival in the summer, and in a few days, for the end of Ramadan, there will be special evenings. For those passing through El Jem at that time, I think you shouldn’t miss the chance to attend a show in such an exceptional place.

The tourist cafés and restaurants opposite the amphitheatre were open during the day.









ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM ❤️❤️

Same ticket as for the amphitheatre

This museum houses magnificent mosaics, some of which are gigantic. Many depict mythology, while others show circus games, and so on... The floor is also covered with mosaics.

You’ll also find the House of Africa, the remains of a Roman home with some lovely floor mosaics.

A mosaic artist was working outside the House of Africa. He explained his craft to me—it’s very meticulous work. He was trained by Italian mosaic artists.

Both sites can be visited in a morning. Opening hours during Ramadan: 8:00 AM–3:00 PM.

I didn’t know how long these visits would take, but I could’ve left today for Mahdia and spent the night there instead of staying in El Jem.

In Roman times, El Jem was known as Thysdrus. It was a wealthy trading city that thrived on olive oil. Today, the town seems less prosperous—on one of the main avenues, you’ll occasionally see a donkey-drawn cart loaded with hay...

But on the road between Sousse and El Jem, you can still see olive trees as far as the eye can see. The landscape reminds me of southwestern Spain, where you also see endless olive groves and shepherds with their sheep.





















TO BE CONTINUED...

Good evening Marie, if you had plans to visit Kairouan, El Jem, and Mahdia, I’d say you did things a bit out of order. It would’ve made more sense to go from Sousse to Kairouan first, then El Jem, then Mahdia. Still, Kairouan is definitely worth the trip. A day and a half in El Jem seems reasonable. Were you able to visit both sites with the same ticket over two days? If you booked at the Hôtel La Kasbah, you shouldn’t be disappointed. Bring a shawl to cover your head. You mentioned bread. In Kairouan, there are so many different kinds, and they’re all better than the last. And in Kairouan, you *have* to buy makrouds—semolina cakes stuffed with dates and soaked in honey... What you called "coups de feu" are actually cannon shots announcing sunset and the end of the fast. Have a great day tomorrow

Good evening,

Yesterday I arrived in El Jem in the early afternoon, and I didn’t have time to visit anything since the sites close very early. I wandered around the streets and the market instead.

The ticket for the sites has the date on it, so you have to visit both on the same day.

For Mahdia and Monastir, I wasn’t sure if I’d go, but given the little time I have, it doesn’t make sense to spend just one day there. I’d rather save them for another trip.

On the other hand, I really wanted to go to Kairouan, and I actually booked a room at the Kasbah Hotel. The room is 245 dinars including breakfast, which doesn’t seem excessive for a hotel in this category.

I’ll head back up toward Tunis and maybe arrive a day earlier than planned to visit Carthage.

Near Kairouan, there’s the site of Sbeitla, but it’s advised against on travel advisory sites. Have you been there recently?

Oh, I thought you’d managed to visit the museum yesterday. Yeah, it did seem like you had to visit all the sites included on the ticket on the same day. It’ll be the same for Kairouan and even more sites. Now that you’ve seen the El Jem amphitheater, just imagine an artist like Barbara Hendrix or Dee Dee Bridgewater—or even the Gipsy Kings last summer. What amazing moments! 😊 As for Mahdia, it’s a small town, and apart from the museum and the ribat, which follow Ramadan hours, a stroll through the marine cemetery and the little medina won’t take more than a day. I haven’t been to Sbeitla recently—it’s an interesting site, but it’s over 100 km southwest of Kairouan. It could make for a nice stop on another trip south. For Carthage, check if the museum is open; otherwise, there’s the amphitheater, the baths, and the Roman villas. It’s just the two of us chatting—would be great if others joined in with comments...

Hello,

For Carthage, their website does indeed state that the museum is closed.

For Sbeitla, it’s near Kasserine, not Kairouan...

Regarding concerts in the El Jem amphitheater, I didn’t know that big international names perform there. For those who’ll be in Tunisia this summer, it’s definitely worth making the detour.

As for comments on the forum, unfortunately, travel forums don’t really have exchanges anymore. Most people come to GET information, not to share it or help plan a trip. Or they come to advertise a guide or an agency.

Without constructive exchanges, travel forums lose a lot of their appeal and are becoming more and more deserted.

PS: The weather’s nice and hot. In the end, I’m glad I didn’t go to Djerba. Maybe next time, perhaps in the spring.

KAIROUAN ❤️❤️❤️

Kairouan is the spiritual capital of Tunisia, the first holy city of the Maghreb, and the fourth holiest city for Sunni Muslims.

It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988.

I traveled there from El Jem by *louage* (shared taxi). It’s not direct—first, you have to go to Sousse (6.5 TND = 2 euros), which takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes, then switch to another *louage* for Kairouan (6.2 TND = 2 euros), taking another hour. Total: 4 euros and 2 hours and 10 minutes.

In the van, I was sandwiched between the driver and a young girl. I chatted with the driver, whose brother lives in Nice. When we arrived in Kairouan, I asked him about the taxi fare to my hotel, and he offered to take me there himself. He dropped everyone else off at the station, and I stayed in the vehicle while he drove me to the hotel. I gave him a tip. He even offered to be my guide in the medina, but I declined.

■ Hotel La Kasbah is located in an old fortress and is a classified site of Muslim architecture. The rooms have a lot of charm, with walls covered in ceramic tiles, woodwork, *moucharabieh* shutters, a veranda overlooking the pool, and Tunisian wooden furniture and mirrors, etc. In the late afternoon, it’s really nice to relax by the pool with the sound of water from a stone basin flowing into it and thousands of birds in the trees around the pool.

It’s a 5-star hotel, and the room rate with breakfast is around 75 euros.



THE MEDINA ❤️❤️❤️

I love all medinas, and this one is no exception. I love everything about it: the stunning doors (I only have photos of doors!), the architecture of the houses, the bright white walls, the shops (the jewelry stores have gorgeous Berber pieces), the people going about their day, etc.

I met a man weaving on a traditional loom, and we chatted for a while in Italian (it’s amazing how many Tunisians speak Italian, even some who’ve never set foot in Italy!). We had an interesting discussion about his work, the fatigue during Ramadan, etc.

In the medina, I saw a beautiful house with several Olympique de Marseille flags. A man came out, and I asked if a Marseillais lived there. He told me he was a Marseillais at heart (he was actually from Aix-en-Provence). He runs an OM supporters’ club in Aix and Kairouan and also manages a cinema-café next to his house. He said it was open in the evening if I wanted to go.

I asked a group of men for directions to the Great Mosque, and one of them insisted on accompanying me. He was a police officer (in civilian clothes) whose father lives in Cannes. He took me to the terrace of a carpet shop next to the mosque, and from up there, the view of the mosque courtyard is breathtaking. I highly recommend going up there. No one in the shop tried to sell me anything. I wanted to give the officer a tip for his trouble (I was far from the mosque when I asked for directions), but he refused.

I arrived in Kairouan in the early afternoon and didn’t see everything, but I really love the tranquility of this pretty city (surprisingly, there are few tourists).

At the top of the terrace, there’s a small café. Two tourists were sitting there, and the officer offered me a soda, but I declined. I’m not Muslim, but I didn’t feel like eating or drinking in public during Ramadan.

Otherwise, cafés frequented by locals are closed during the day. The tables are set up (in other cities, chairs and tables were put away), and men sit at them without consuming anything (not even cigarettes).



























TO BE CONTINUED...

KAIROUAN (continued)

Today I was planning to visit the Great Mosque and the zaouias, but these sites close at 2:00 PM, and I didn’t have time to go because I left the hotel late. Then I spent quite a while in the medina talking to people, and there were more workshops open than yesterday afternoon.

There were especially more weaving workshops with pedal looms—some medium-sized and others quite large. It’s the men who do the weaving.

There are also lots of shoe workshops, especially for babouches made of goat leather with camel soles.

Some of these workshops are in low houses that look like "caves."

Near the Zaouia of Sidi Abid El-Ghariani, there’s a carpet shop in a stunning Kairouanese house. It’s a (free) visit you shouldn’t miss! If you can’t find it, touts will likely take you there—you’re not obligated to buy anything.

Some men offer themselves as guides without you even asking. If you don’t want to pay them, insist that you’ll find your way alone and don’t need a guide.

■ This afternoon, I had a hammam session at the hotel’s traditional hammam. I went all out: exfoliation with black soap and an algae wrap. I came out completely refreshed! It’s definitely worth doing!

■ In Kairouan, like the rest of Tunisia, you absolutely must try the different breads—they’re all excellent! Today I had a round, not-too-thick bread made with cracked wheat and flavored with fennel and other seeds. Delicious! Someone warned me to watch out for pickpockets in the crowded bakeries where there’s always a scrum.

■ In Tunisian cuisine, I recognize some dishes that are also eaten in Spain, a country I know very well. For example, "mechouia"—in Extremadura, it’s called "moje" or "mojeteo," and the peppers are chopped into strips rather than finely minced like in Tunisia. I checked Wikipedia, and mechouia is indeed an Arab-Andalusian heritage.

In Spain, there are also many fried pastries similar to Tunisian "deblas," called "floretas." There are lots of other common fried pastries, but I think in Tunisia, they use sugar syrup instead of honey like in Spain, and in Spain, anise seeds are often used.

■ In a pastry shop, I saw "bouza to drink" for 20 dinars per liter (over 6 €). I don’t know what it is, but it’s expensive.

Otherwise, the lemonade and strawberry juice are delicious!

■ The "azulejos" ("jelliz" in Tunisia), which I love, are another common point between Spain and Tunisia.

■ And in many Spanish cities, even the smallest ones, in the old Arab and Jewish quarters, you’ll find the same narrow streets as in the medinas.

But Tunisia is especially close to Italy, and I practiced my Italian a lot today....





















TO BE CONTINUED.....

Hi Marie, So if I understand correctly, you went to Kairouan, the 4th holiest city in Islam, the oldest mosque in North Africa, and you didn’t visit any religious monuments? The medina of Kairouan is quite unique and really nice. Different from Tunis and Sousse, which are similar to each other. Are you still there tonight? Will you visit tomorrow? I think bouza is a kind of cream dessert with dried fruits or sorghum. Maybe also with hazelnuts. A bit special during Ramadan. The strawberry juices are delicious! 😋 I don’t like makrouds, but I always find Kairouan’s bread delicious—you’re right. The touting guides on mopeds are a specialty of Kairouan, and they wait for cars at all the city entrances! A hammam at the Kasbah hotel must be something else... I stick to the hammams in Mahdia, and they’re quite formal! What’s next tomorrow?

Hi Michèle,

Tomorrow I’m staying in Kairouan—I’m not leaving this hotel!

For the hammam, I don’t have any point of comparison since I was alone.

Makrouds aren’t my favorite Tunisian pastries either.

Thanks so much for this live travel journal. I find it really interesting—a great mix of personal feelings and practical info. I’m enjoying it and looking forward to each new episode.

Thanks so much for this live travel journal. I’m finding it really interesting.

Hi there,

I’ll do a full recap when I get back to France, but in any case, don’t follow my itinerary—I did it backward. As Michèle (Mraissa) pointed out, yesterday a shopkeeper asked me where I’d been in Tunisia and told me the same thing: "You did it backward." It happens to me often, and sometimes I think, "If some people do organized trips, well, I do completely disorganized ones!" So this isn’t an example to follow....

KAIROUAN (end)

●Great Mosque ♥️♥️♥️ (12 TND = 3.50 €, ticket valid for several sites)

This is the city’s iconic building—it’s huge, and from the outside, it looks like a fortress. It’s the oldest and most prestigious mosque in the western Muslim world. Even if you don’t know much about Islamic art, you can’t help but be impressed by its size, courtyard, and so on.

Non-Muslims can’t enter the prayer hall, but from the threshold, you can see the interior and its many arches.

Before visiting, I recommend reading the Wikipedia page about it—it’s extremely comprehensive (history, architecture, photos, etc.), with accounts from Western writers and travelers who were blown away by this building (Maupassant, Rainer Maria Rilke, etc.).

As with all Muslim religious sites, you need to cover up. At the entrance, they provide outfits for men and women, but this is the mosque where I saw the most women with their hair half uncovered. I tucked my hair under my beret and pulled up my hood.

Behind the mosque, don’t miss the small cemetery with its immaculate white tombs.









●Zaouïa of Sidi Abid El-Ghariani ♥️♥️ (Same ticket as the Great Mosque)

This is the mausoleum of a 14th-century saint from Libya. The walls are covered with beautiful ceramic tiles, and the ceiling is painted marquetry.

Here too, you’re supposed to cover up, but I saw a family of Spanish tourists, and the woman had nothing on her hair.







● Zaouïa of Abou Zamaa ♥️♥️♥️ (Same ticket as the previous sites)

This building is outside the medina. I walked there and took a taxi back (2 dinars, less than 1 €).

This mausoleum is larger than the previous one. The walls feature beautiful ceramic tiles and stucco friezes, and there are also lovely wooden ceilings.

It’s where a companion of the Prophet Muhammad is buried (the entrance to the sanctuary itself is off-limits to non-Muslims—it’s a place of prayer).

Explanatory panels mention that this is the most visited mausoleum by Tunisians, especially during the Mouled festival, which celebrates the birth of the Prophet Muhammad.

■ There was another zaouïa included in the ticket, but it was closed.

■ The Carpet Museum of the National Office of Tunisian Crafts was closed yesterday and today too.

■ Many tourists come in groups in the morning and then leave—you don’t see many in the afternoon.

■ The men who watch for tourists to offer as guides are always in the same strategic spots. Today, one of them—who I had a hard time getting rid of yesterday—came to say hello, and I told him, "You’re following me!" That made him laugh. There are quite a few of them in Kairouan.

■ The taxi driver was a woman—she’s the first and only female taxi driver in Kairouan (she must be in her fifties). A younger colleague quit because of the stress from the chaotic traffic. She warned me to watch my bag because there are kids who snatch things.













TO BE CONTINUED...

I got back to Tunis today by *louage* (14.6 dinars = 4.30 €). The trip took a little over two hours, but they flew by. I met a Tunisian guy who was heading back to Paris—he’s spent his whole life there and knows it like the back of his hand. He was really chatty and told me all sorts of stories about working in big Parisian brasseries where showbiz folks are regulars. He’s met Aznavour, Gainsbourg, Michel Drucker, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and more. He also worked at the cabaret *Chez Michou*. He was such a funny and interesting guy—he even gave me his address in his village near Kairouan and his wife’s phone number so I could visit and she could make me couscous!

We also talked about Tunisia. He was frank and clear-eyed about the country, often using the phrase "laisser-aller." For example, when I pointed out the insane number of plastic bags littering the roadsides and fields (when you travel across different continents, you realize the planet is slowly being completely overrun by plastic—it’s terrifying!).

Anyway, the two-hour trip just flew by.

I’d planned to come back to Tunis tomorrow, but I ended up returning a day early. I hadn’t booked a hotel for today, but I found a room at the Hôtel El Hana International (128 dinars = 38 €), where I’d already planned to stay for my last two nights.

This hotel has definitely seen better days, but I’m on the sixth floor with a great view of the Théâtre Municipal, where I’m going to see a concert tonight, as well as tomorrow and the day after. The concerts start at 10 PM and end around midnight, so the hotel’s super convenient—but it’s noisy since my room faces Avenue Bourguiba (which is totally deserted right now at 6:20 PM, marking the end of the fast).

Tunisians who aren’t fasting for Ramadan can grab a coffee and smoke in the café in the hotel lobby.

Oh, and on Avenue Bourguiba, near the clock, don’t miss the Hôtel du Lac—an icon of Brutalist architecture. I think they’re demolishing it.

For my last two days, I’m planning to visit Carthage and La Marsa.

TO BE CONTINUED...

I really enjoyed tonight’s concert—traditional Arabic music reimagined by a Tunisian DJ. There was such a mix of instruments (piano, violins, Spanish guitar, bagpipes, drums, etc.), different singers, and it was more of a music-to-dance-to than something to sit and listen to in an armchair. In fact, the audience was on their feet, dancing in the aisles and on the balcony—the show was happening in the room as much as on stage! Poems were recited in voiceovers, but even if you don’t understand Arabic, it’s not really an issue.

Tunisians, especially Tunisian women, really dress up to go out at night, competing in elegance, and the streets stay lively until late.

If you get the chance, I highly recommend catching a concert at the Théâtre Municipal de Tunis or elsewhere in the city. It’s a great way to discover music you’d never hear in France, especially since the prices are super affordable—at the Théâtre Municipal, the most expensive tickets cost 40 and 50 dinars, which is 12 and 15 €.

I read in the news that the Théâtre Municipal wasn’t supposed to be open for Ramadan nights because renovations are planned, so it might close soon.

TO BE CONTINUED...

I’m revisiting the Municipal Theatre of Tunis, a little Art Nouveau gem (from my room overlooking the theatre, I can perfectly see the bas-relief that’s hard to spot from below. It depicts Apollo surrounded by the Muse of Poetry and the Muse of Drama, and it’s the work of a French sculptor, Jean-Baptiste Belloc).

What struck me last night was the elegance of the audience. I’m more used to going to the theatre in Madrid, where people dress much less formally—it’s really only for the opera that Spaniards dress up more.

Last night, among the spectators, there was a very elegant lady in a green outfit with a matching scarf and a chechia (a unisex head covering), young women in stunning djellabas, others in leather miniskirts and knee-high boots, some wearing sequined or gold-coin-embroidered scarves. Even the usher (a woman in her fifties) who showed us to our seats had a lot of style—she was wearing a shiny red top, a tight skirt, and burgundy boots.

The most eccentric was an elderly gentleman in a red suit with a flower behind his ear. He didn’t stop dancing by himself while holding his phone to film the whole time. He was in the front and knocked over a metal bar that was on the side.

Throughout the concert, people kept standing up, others arrived halfway through the show and kissed everyone in their row, some were talking on the phone, and many were filming the performance.

At the balcony and in the hallways, women (and a few men) were dancing, and those seated raised their arms and swayed in an oriental style.

In short, there was a great atmosphere, even though the hall wasn’t even close to full (there were other shows happening elsewhere in Tunis, including Cheb Mami at the Cité de la Culture).

People are allowed to smoke inside the theatre (though not in the auditorium), so you can smell tobacco throughout the show. That’s also very different from Europe, where smoking is now banned in public spaces).

LA MARSA

This is the chic and quiet suburb of Tunis. I think expats must live here because I ran into quite a few Westerners who didn’t seem like tourists. In La Marsa, you can find all the foreign press (especially French).

The shops are upscale (decor, clothing, pastries, etc.), prices are high (the *bouza* that was 20 dinars per liter in Kairouan is 52 dinars per liter here), international restaurants are plentiful (Breton crêperie, Thai catering, etc.), and the cars are high-end. In short, it feels like Europe.

There are also beautiful villas, and the seafront is nice. The beach was crowded—families, young people playing beach volleyball, etc.

In my opinion, it’s not an essential stop. La Marsa can be a nice detour in the summer for swimming and escaping Tunis, but in winter and during Ramadan, with bars and restaurants closed, it’s a different story.









LA GOULETTE

Closer to Tunis than La Marsa and on the same bus line, I’d say this is another stop you can skip.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Tonight’s concert was different from yesterday’s—tonight it was Tunisian classical music, *malouf* from Tunisia, with all the traditional instruments. I loved it.

Like yesterday, the audience was very well dressed—clothes, jewelry, hats. These are affluent, cultured Tunisians.

The eccentric old gentleman was there again, still in the front row. Tonight he was wearing a golden-yellow suit and still had that flower behind his ear. He danced through a good part of the show, spinning around and raising his arms with a perpetual smile on his lips. What a character! My neighbor pointed him out to me, laughing, and said something in Arabic that I didn’t understand. They assume I understand Arabic just because the performance is in Arabic.

Tomorrow night, it’ll be traditional music from Djerba. The night’s going to be short because my return flight is Monday at 6:30 AM...

Today is my last full day in Tunisia. In the end, I didn’t go to Carthage—I’ll visit when the schedules return to "normal." I did a bit of shopping; up until now, I hadn’t bought much.

About Saint-Vincent-de-Paul Cathedral, I asked one of the police officers stationed out front if it was still closed. He told me the entrance is on the side, on Rue d’Alger, not Avenue Bourguiba. I went there, and they told me it opens tomorrow from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM. I won’t be able to check since I’ll be gone by then, but in any case, that doesn’t match the visiting hours posted at the entrance on Avenue Bourguiba.

I still have the evening at the Municipal Theatre to look forward to (I can’t wait to see if the eccentric old gentleman will be there and what color his suit will be tonight!). The night will be short since my flight leaves tomorrow morning at 6:30 AM. I hope it isn’t canceled or significantly delayed because I have to be back at work Tuesday morning at 8:00 AM.

TO BE CONTINUED... THE RECAP! (And a few photos...)

Hi Marie, Thank you so much for keeping up with this daily travel journal. For making us laugh with your descriptions, For keeping us informed about the costs... For showing us the kindness of Tunisians toward us French folks—always so warmly welcomed. We were starting to think Tunisians were becoming "more interested," but that doesn’t seem to have been the case. I’m glad you eventually found the weather wasn’t *that* cold. Heading to northern Tunisia in February is always a gamble with the cold. Looking forward to the wrap-up and some photos! 🤩 Have a lovely evening! 🌙

Hi Michèle,

Regarding the weather, these days it’s unpredictable—you can go from winter to summer in a week. In the end, I had quite a bit of heat during the day, but in the evenings, you still need heating.

There are indeed Tunisians who are "interested," so you shouldn’t be naive, but not all of them, and that’s also the case in other poorer countries.

I’d like to come back in 6 weeks. I’m not sure which region would be best for this time of year, and I’d like to do a different kind of trip—this one was very culture-focused.

In six weeks, mid-April, I’d rather head (again) to the south, arriving in Tozeur and departing from Djerba... If you're looking to take a break from culture and instead see some beautiful landscapes, I’d do a route like this, and in this direction: Tozeur and the mountain oases, Chott el Jerid, Douz, Matmata, Toujane, the troglodyte houses, the ksars and ghorfas, Chenini, Douiret, Ksar Ouled Soltane, and then the road to Djerba, Houmt Souk, Erriadh, and the paintings... Your thoughts? !

Hi Michèle,

Yes, I’ll check out the south of the country.

I’m still thinking about last night’s show at the Municipal Theatre of Tunis—the place was packed, and the atmosphere was electric! Almost everyone in the audience, young and old, was dancing, singing, clapping, and the women were ululating—it was incredible! The show was as much in the crowd as it was on stage.

One of the singers had a censer, and there was incense everywhere.

It was a traditional music concert with African influences (featuring several Black singers and dancers, unlike other nights). At the end, a "character" entered from the audience wearing an African masked costume (his head completely covered). He danced and played the *qraqeb*, metal castanets.

There was this older gentleman—his look, the way he danced, and his smile, like he had an audience right in front of him—I think he was a former performer. He wore a stunning deep blue outfit with white embroidery, as usual had a big flower behind his ear, and of course, he never stopped dancing.

I’ve never experienced an atmosphere like that in a theater before!

For anyone interested in culture, I *highly* recommend spending an evening at the Municipal Theatre of Tunis. The vibe is 100% Tunisian, and you’ll also get a glimpse of Tunisian fashion (djellabas, hats, sequins, jasmine flowers behind the ear, etc.). It’s really something to see and experience! 😊

The least we can say is that it looks *super* inviting, Marie 🤩 But it’d be great to know if you just got lucky or if the vibe is always like this.

Hi Christelle,

I went to three evenings at the Municipal Theatre of Tunis. At the first two, there was some atmosphere, but much less because there were far fewer people. At last night’s event, the singers and dancers were radiating so much energy and encouraging the audience to join in—the theatre had turned into an oriental nightclub!

I think the atmosphere depends on the number of spectators and the type of music. At all three evenings, it was Tunisian music.

During Ramadan nights, there are other shows elsewhere in Tunis that are also worth checking out. For example, the Algerian Cheb Mami at the Cité de la Culture. In the medina, I saw there was a concert by a well-known Tunisian duo—a pianist brother and singer sister—and there are plenty of other concerts and shows planned until the end of Ramadan.

I chose to go to the Municipal Theatre because my hotel was right across the street. It was more convenient for getting back alone at midnight.

Anyway, it’s a great way to discover the Tunisian music scene, and all for a bargain price for us Europeans (last night, I paid 40 dinars, which is 12 € for an orchestra seat).

It’s really "authentic," as they say—it’s not a show put on for tourists. The audience was Arabic-speaking, etc. The usher who seats people gave me a big smile when she saw me (she’d seen me before) and spoke to me in Arabic. I didn’t understand a word, but I said "choukrane!" She thought I understood Arabic like the other spectators.

I’ve started adding some photos on pages 1 and 2 (Medina and the central market in Tunis, Sidi Bou Saïd, El Jem).

I’ll put together a travel journal on MyAtlas with fewer details and a few more photos—I’ll post the link here once it’s done (it’s on my profile for now).

DOORS I’m taking advantage of the fact that I’m currently illustrating the travel journal (I’ve just visited Sousse, the Bardo Museum, and La Marsa) to also share some photos of Tunisian doors—they’re stunning! They’re what I photographed the most, and I’ll post more on MyAtlas. Here, I’m limited to 10 photos.

They’re usually old and can be found mostly in the medinas.

Most are yellow or blue, but some are white. The green ones are mosque doors.

Thanks Marie for all these photos. I just found out we can add photos a few days after sending the message! 👏