Bright red and a headache

Hi Catherine,

I think you’re right about what’s going on. But maybe by now you’ve got an Italian passport?

Michel

PS: So it’s no longer Bishkek?

Hi Michel,

Maybe you don’t know this, but France used to be *extremely* possessive: it was me or no one else, or I’d strip you of your French nationality. That’s not the case anymore (or so it seems), but in the meantime, Meloni’s Italy has become just as bad. If you don’t have typically Italian red blood cells going back I-don’t-know-how-many generations, you can’t even apply for Italian citizenship. In short, I missed the narrow window—the tiny time slot—due to my careless, couldn’t-care-less attitude. And now I only have a French passport. Slightly worse than an Italian one: an Italian journalist was recently imprisoned in Evin (sounds like a Breton name, right? [;)]).

Catherine

PS:

PS: So it’s no longer Bishkek?

Bishkek was just a pastime. A way to see a stretch of the Karakoram Highway (one of the world’s great places) and check out the possibility of continuing on to Kashgar. From Milan, all of that is really hard to wrap your head around. It was through the agency offering to climb Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan that I found this Iranian trip.

No, no, I suspected as much, but I thought that in 5 or maybe 8 years—Hungary, for example, took 8 years, the Netherlands 5—you might have changed the colors of the potential problem a bit.

I sometimes watch, an old passion for motorcycle travel, the journeys of "Itchy Boots" / Noraly Shoemaker in Saudi Arabia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and I think her passport is really enviable, so much less compromising. https://youtu.be/bbKQNqu50a0?si=X46DCNJNy4QtRGLO I’m not convinced a French passport would have allowed her to do that kind of travel. In case of trouble, the Dutch culture regarding consulates and assistance to travelers is also completely different.

Well, since it didn’t happen, in Iran you’ll go "as you are."

Michel

Alright, let’s talk about your points, which aren’t mine, by the way [:)]

No, no, I suspected as much, but I thought that in 5 or maybe 8 years—Hungary, for example, is 8 years, the Netherlands, 5—you might’ve changed the colors of the potential problem a bit.

In Italy, it used to be 5 years. A language test (easy for me) and, after a bunch of lengthy administrative formalities, you’d also get Italian citizenship. The issue then, since I didn’t want to replace my nationality but align it with my life and identity—so dual citizenship—was France. For this country, the only justification for dual citizenship after birth is... marriage . No joke, it doesn’t make sense. And the marital bond (the yoke of oxen hitched together), well... let’s move on...

That said, today, even if an Italian passport would’ve been a little less ideologically rigid and a bit more pragmatic than a French one, it still wouldn’t solve my Iranian issue. The Farnesina lists Iran as a deep red.

Cat

The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is still missing.

You might want to contact Cécile Kohler, Jacques Paris, and Lennart Monterlos for the latest updates on this country.

I don’t exactly boycott dictatorship-countries, but since I’m not really into rough travel experiences, I avoid those where I’m clearly not welcome ("I" meaning my way of life), like countries that are too unstable.

And Russian roulette isn’t my favorite pastime.

I was curious enough to click on the "Iran" link highlighted in my reply. Here’s what I got:



*Sigh*, sighs. In Italian: *ma vaffanculo*, *azz*. Vaffanculo to you, to all of you, and to your ideology, your arrogance, your ridiculous pride.

Cat

Hello local embodiment of French intellectual nobility [:p],

What percentage of tourism in Iran do your unfortunate compatriots represent? It’s the only missing piece of data—cruelly missing—that’ll let me make my decision.

Catherine

Iranian tourism professionals are complaining about the lack of Western visitors. The majority of entries are from Iraqis, followed by Afghans and then Turks.

Fewer than 500,000 travelers come from outside these three countries.

Most come from countries "friendly" with the Iranian dictatorship: Russia or China, for example. Some are also religious tourists (Shia pilgrims from Pakistan, Kuwait, etc.). Others are into medical tourism (cosmetic surgery), usually from the Middle East.

There are 1,000 French citizens registered on Ariane for Iran. 90% are dual nationals.

In short, Europeans shouldn’t expect to have the place to themselves in Isfahan.

One indicator is the number of recent travel journals for the destination. I’ve searched online, but the ones I find are all pre-Covid.

Hi Lillie

that you already know, right?

I don’t know. Actually, no. How is it possible to truly know a country without living there fully for years? I know a bit about France and Italy. I’ve never set foot in Iran.

I’ve been approaching it, brushing against it insistently for years. Since a noisy dawn of birds in front of Ararat, just a few kilometers from the border. Books, films—the ones "they" select and deign to show us. So partial, biased, that’s certain. Landscapes, cities of stunning beauty. A language, too. A density of past, both different and shared. I glimpse it, desire it, feel I could love it. Far beyond what it is today, a contingent avatar, perhaps or undoubtedly.

The question here and now is: will desire overcome personal apprehension and the anxiety of loved ones?

Answer in a few days/months. At best, you’ll gain a beautiful travel journal. [;)]

Cat

There are 1,000 French citizens registered on the Ariane system for Iran. 90% are dual nationals.

So that’d put us at about 0.75% (3/4 out of 100) of "political hostages"... Interesting, very. What are your sources? [:)]

Catherine

In a newspaper dear to Tatra...[:P]

(The other tourism data came from an Iranian site and a Lebanese site)

Good evening Agnès,

One indicator is the number of recent travel journals about the destination. No matter how much I searched online, the ones I found were pre-Covid.

After the Covid mess, in 2023 it was possible, and I was about to do it. Then it became clear there would be an armed confrontation with Israel, the scale of which was impossible for the average citizen to grasp. It happened. And for now, it doesn’t seem like it will happen again.

I’m thinking, I’m thinking tonight, that the last time I tied my brain in knots before leaving was for Kars, which was completely off the beaten path. And I had one of, if not *the* most moving trips of my life there—rare light under the snow. So...

Given the topic: maybe traveling is about looking your fear—partly induced—in the eye, taking it in your trembling hand, and saying, "Come on, let’s go." [:)]

The travel journal will be called "All the Way to Hormuz," I think.

Catherine

Good evening,

I’m used to personal attacks, that’s true. I’ve had worse, that’s true. But as a press reference, you should find something else... Look to the left if you want. https://www.liberation.fr/medias/2005/12/20/la-prefecture-pige-a-ouest-france_542405/ I admit it’s old (from my only trip to Tehran, by the way), but since then, I haven’t given much credit to *Ouest-France*. This isn’t where I’d go for information.

Michel

Maybe traveling is about looking your fear—partly self-induced—in the eye, taking it in your trembling hand, and saying, "Come on, let’s go." Smile

Possible for some folks.

I think my personal risk-taking pretty much stops at skiing. Maybe some hikes too.

My last scare was on Mauritius. The ocean can be treacherous.

But dying? That’s nothing. Ending up in a jail cell sounds way worse.

Tatra that provides a source. I'm still stunned.

Telegram from Persia June 2, 2011 -- STOP Iranian hospitality fabulous -- STOP -- Little bro Seb: 'But how can they love us so much in such a short time?' -- STOP -- No tourists encountered in ten days except a couple of Germans who biked from Europe -- STOP Tehran detestable -- STOP -- Lorestan province cool and welcoming, Khuzestan stifling with a large Arab minority -- STOP Men as warm as women are absent -- STOP -- Apartheid everywhere -- STOP -- Outside of students, conservative atmosphere -- STOP -- Strong animosity toward Israel -- STOP Gastronomy nonexistent -- STOP -- Lamb kebabs, rice, and bread -- STOP -- Carrot juice the national drink, we prefer kiwi, cherry, and melon juice -- STOP Ruins of Persepolis tomorrow -- STOP Splendors of Isfahan the day after -- STOP Love and kisses from Shiraz, city of poets -- -- END

Hi Louis,

Thanks. 2011 [;)]

@Agnès

Ending up in a jail cell seems significantly more unpleasant to me.

We agree. The question is how to assess the probability that I’ll at least end up there—or at least pass through. [;)] But I don’t think we’ll agree on this destination. For me, if Paris was worth a mass, Hormuz or Yazd are worth a hijab. And that doesn’t put my identity in the slightest danger—it’s infinitely more solid than any outfit here or there.

Catherine [:)]

I could’ve made an effort with the costume before.

But the murder of Mahsa Amini and what followed confirmed my decision to wait for better days to visit this country (not to mention the potential risk of being taken hostage).

The fruit is ripe—the mullahs’ clique is on an ejector seat. One more spark could make them disappear.

Iran definitely deserves better than a visit where you’re hugging the walls of a country smothered under a lead blanket.

Good evening Catherine, On this one, I’m a bit like Agnès—brave but not reckless 😅. And I don’t like playing Russian roulette either! But I’ve no doubt that the imprisoned kid’s bike trip was fantastic, with an unmatched welcome from the locals (apparently everyone agrees on that in Iran) until the moment he was locked up and went from paradise to hell in two minutes! And while I’m all for "everyone does what they want," I struggle a bit more with people who don’t own their choices to the end and then scream "heeeelp, France!" after wandering into parts of the world marked red. But if you do go, we’ll definitely be interested in hearing about your trip! Good luck with your thoughts, and see you soon! Christelle

Hello Christelle,

Under the 1963 Vienna Convention, which grants "consular protection," states have a duty to assist their nationals abroad. It’s mostly a framework, an obligation of means, which doesn’t legally require anything, but morally and statutorily, it still carries some weight.

I’m not aware of many people crying "help, France!"—beyond a few highly publicized cases. And that media coverage is also a political message, not something the detained individuals control. They’re just hoping for a quick and humane solution. But some states are now taking French citizens hostage as a means of leverage or retaliation, and our world is shrinking.

The current trend is grim for travelers: more and more high-risk or "red" zones, a government that’s increasingly alarmist, and a large part of the population demanding more coddling and protection. This is much more true in France than in other European countries, which are less involved and less resistant to citizen autonomy. I’ve also heard that the EU is about to ban organized travel to Russia—for now—and possibly Belarus next, as part of sanctions. Though, in my opinion, it’s the people who end up paying the price... In the past, Canadians, for example, had major issues with Iran.

At this rate, exit bans won’t be far behind.

Michel

Hi there,

It seems like you think a political regime change will let you visit an Iran without veiled women or moral conservatism; you’re underestimating the role of religion and how much most people value it. In other words, things probably won’t be much better for you afterward. When I see the list of countries you’ve never visited in your profile, it makes more sense.

Michel

Where did I say that the fall of this theocracy would mean a country without veils or bearded men?

You can't erase the tales and legends people believe in from their minds, any more than you can force someone to believe in such nonsense.

The difference is that people will be free to express their opinions—and that’s huge!

It won’t necessarily be better for me; it’s primarily for the Iranians.

As the list of countries I haven’t visited shows, I’ve already stayed in many undemocratic countries where women’s rights aren’t exactly shining.

I think visiting a country under an iron fist ultimately means not really seeing the country or meeting its people, but discovering a regime.

Why go to North Korea or Afghanistan?

Not for the countries themselves, but to see the North Korean regime or the Taliban with your own eyes.

That’s why my memories of Romania behind the Iron Curtain are almost entirely tied to Ceaușescu’s madness.

The lines for gas, black-market exchanges, empty plates, water and electricity shortages, the Romanians’ frenzy to buy anything Western...

I’d love to go back to finally discover the country—its monuments, its landscapes—all the things that didn’t stick in my memory because they were overshadowed by the dictatorship the Romanians endured.

I read your post carefully about your Iranian dream trip. The upside is that you’ll have solid, serious support. This agency can even cancel the trip at the last minute. They should know the route and accommodations inside out. If you can trust them with all the possible—and unimaginable—details, then why not? But there are risks, and you’re well aware of them. It’s a tough decision to make. You chose to talk about it on the forum—I’m not sure I would’ve done the same. It’s a kind of courage, too.

Good evening Marie-Anne,

Yes, that’s exactly what’s so deeply troubling. The agency (Kailas) is a well-established (25 years) and reputable organization. It’d be like Clio in France to give you an idea—except it’s geology-focused. I can’t wrap my head around how they’d risk destroying, annihilating their reputation and credibility by rushing their clients into such a cursed situation, for both themselves and the country they come from. It makes me think that the color assigned to Iran by European chancelleries is mostly a way to deter the clueless folks who scatter about these days—those who *are* likely to put themselves in danger, because it’s still obvious that Iran is a tough country, truly different, and needs to be approached with caution and restraint.

Catherine, perplexed.

Catherine,

You’ve brought up some really interesting points. From what I understand, the French nationals accused and imprisoned in Iran were traveling independently, without any organized framework or clear package-tourist status through an agency. If you're in a small group with a guide, I can see how espionage accusations would be harder to justify. Personally, knowing how I travel, I wouldn’t go either—but in this case, I think we’re talking about something a bit different.

Michel

We’re talking about the dawn lights over Yazd, sitting for a moment in the Lotfollah Mosque and letting your pupils dilate as you soak in the beauty of the place forever, a twilight in the wild splendor of the Dasht-e Lut, a walk through Bam wrapped in the icy mountain air, the red cliffs of Hormuz guarding the Persian Gulf... [:)] and all the things I haven’t even imagined yet.

I’m bracing for the hijab, the constrained group travel (6 minimum, 8 max), pretending to be Catholic if needed, and even eating lamb kebabs that turn my stomach.

I wouldn’t go alone, not even with a custom local agency like in Uzbekistan, but here...

C.

But now, the decision is entirely up to you...

If a distinguished VF member heads to Iran and ends up getting locked up for some obscure reasons... if all that gets out, what amazing publicity for the site! [:P]

My wife dragged me to Egypt a few months after the 2011 events. It turned out to be the best time to go, and it was wonderful. At the same time, if we’d had bad luck, I might not be here to talk about it. So you’d better go see a fortune teller ASAP for some enlightened advice.

What percentage of tourism in Iran do your "unfortunate cases" represent?

Good evening,

If you give such an answer—which I find, forgive me, a bit condescending—and argue this way, I wonder why you’re even hesitating about this trip. These three cases might be isolated, but each one is one too many and speaks volumes about the regime in Iran...

Personally, I can’t give you advice on this, since I don’t know the country and have never visited it (and I have absolutely no desire to discover or visit it). Plus, the Asian continent really isn’t a region that interests me much or one I feel any great sympathy for. And I won’t hide that I’m very much on the same page as the concerns raised by Attila or Solene40.

Still, I hope you’ll make the decision that’s right for you.

hgb

Hello there :)

I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from the bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.

Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz, a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.

A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore. A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.

"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"

I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats that allow it to define and justify itself, miserably. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.

But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be anchored, we must absolutely keep all our strength, not give any leverage to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.

Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.

Catherine

Hello Catherine, In 2025, the world’s leaders spread a general sense of unease, but should people just give in to this gloomy atmosphere? The desire to explore the earth and its peoples will always live on in the minds of adventurers, including mine. Back in 2014, 2015, and 2016, we traveled in Iran, as usual with our backpacks, moving by bus, shared taxi, train, and hitchhiking—yes, hitchhiking in Iran—with no problems during those three trips. The first covered the entire central plateau. Afterward, we wanted to climb several summits, and I found a small local agency that entrusted us to the good care of two brothers: a cook and a high-mountain guide. Two months of travel. In 2015, we explored the northeast with Rafi, a great local guide we met in a guesthouse—we’re still in touch. Finally, in 2016, we went from the northeast to the southeast, along the Afghan and Pakistani borders. That was the trickiest trip to organize, but once again, everything went smoothly with Rafi. I wanted to meet the Baloch people, and I have a great memory of the tailor who made me two magnificent Salwat Kamiz. Rafi asks me, "My friend, when are you coming back to Iran?" But now, with age, grandchildren, and this tense climate, I won’t try to persuade you to go meet the Persians, one of the most cultured, respectful, and hospitable peoples in the world. But if by some extraordinary chance you need anything, then yes, you should go? Wishing you a wonderful trip. Gilles

Hello everyone,

Thank you all for your replies, your opinions, and sharing your beautiful memories. I’m happy for all of you who’ve been able to experience fragments of this magnificent country. [:)]

But ultimately, the decision is yours alone...

If the decision is mine—and mine alone—I’m going. Because the real risk is very moderate, objectively low given the trip’s setup and the guarantees provided by the agency. The only valid concerns are about the geopolitical instability in our Middle East, though Iran isn’t the main culprit, and it’s not certain that the situation on November 30th will still be relevant by mid-February. I’d take that risk, knowing I can still choose not to go at the last minute.

But today, on the eve of my 56th birthday, the question is: "Am I the one deciding my own life?" The positive side is that things are crystal clear: either I go, if possible on the departure date, to Iran, or instead, I do 17 days of intensive psychotherapy to rid MY life of my loved ones’ anxieties and stop limping through it.

Catherine

PS: I’m sorry this discussion thread appears in the Middle East / Iran section. I’d only posted it in "Thoughts and Reflections."

Hey there, "Instead, I’m doing 17 days of intensive psychotherapy to remove the anxieties of loved ones from MY life and stop limping along."

I laughed so hard at that! I could totally come with you—it gets heavy for me sometimes too (I canceled a trip to the Philippines right when Fukushima happened because of family pressure!). But hey, I figure their worries mostly come from a place of love 😅. Imagine only getting indifference from your loved ones when you announce your trip to Iran—wouldn’t that worry you a little? 😮

"Is it me who decides my life?"

As a strong advocate for euthanasia, my answer is yes.

But you have to accept that it’ll hurt your loved ones.

Is the subject worth it? Always the same question.

But you have to accept hurting your loved ones.

At the same time, it kinda depends on how much the inheritance is worth.

"Is it me who decides my life?"

As a staunch advocate of euthanasia, my answer is yes.

But you have to accept that it’ll hurt your loved ones.

Is the subject really worth it? Always the same question.

So euthanasia just for yourself, if I understand correctly? Would you be the one pushing the syringe plunger?

The issue with euthanasia is that it should be—and stay—an individual choice. Legislating for others really weighs on my conscience.

Euthanasia is a personal choice. A choice that should be allowed by legislation.

If some people want to end up bedridden in adult diapers in a retirement home, kept alive by a range of machines, or live thirty more minutes in atrocious suffering, that’s their business, and good for them. But they shouldn’t prevent others from choosing their own end.

A law is necessary. Otherwise, it’s impossible to choose your own fate unless you go to Switzerland or Belgium, which isn’t always possible and isn’t very equal.

But we’re getting off topic...

The law is mandatory, yes. I’m not debating that fact. France is governed by the Law.

What bothers me are the potential abuses by families. That’s why I’d prefer a law that’s quite restrictive or well-regulated—not just left to families.

And to clarify, I don’t plan on ending up bedridden in a nursing home or hospital. Everything’s already set up if needed. Even the funding for the final exit. The only remaining gray area is the final choice for the body: worms or the barbecue.

But we’re getting off topic.

Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.

A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore. A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.

"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"

I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, miserably. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.

But the unchanging red—deep, garnet red, so beautiful in itself—echoes through all the Western chancelleries: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go. You’re putting yourself in danger, and we won’t be able to do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, pawns in endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled; we must keep all our strength and give no ground to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.

We went there independently 20 years ago. We used a local agency based in Shiraz, and everything went very smoothly. At the time, female tourists had to wear a veil. I hesitated a lot about taking this trip for that reason. I don’t know if that’s still the case now. Personally, I found it quite difficult. Especially since we came from Turkmenistan by land. I got some unpleasant comments at the border crossing about not being dressed modestly enough... If we’d arrived by airport, the "welcome" would probably have been different. When we got to the hotel in Mashhad, where we were just passing through, I literally collapsed. But shortly after, we discovered a population that was as kind as could be and genuinely happy to communicate with foreigners. In the cities, women let strands of hair show. We even talked to a teacher visiting Yazd with his young students—veiled 10-year-old girls who already told us back then that 80% of women dreamed of living Western-style and removing their veils once and for all. We also came across a gay couple in Mashhad, a highly religious city. They were very open about it, and no one paid any attention. All this to say that even if the country’s politics are disastrous, our media also tend to exaggerate the situation. At the time, it wasn’t uncommon to hear that homosexuals were heavily punished. The weight of religion is very heavy in this country. If you can look past that, everything will go well. And besides, you’re going for a heritage of unparalleled richness, stunning landscapes, and people—who, I’ll say it again, are extremely welcoming.

The only downside still being the final choice for the body. Worms or barbecue.

To stay on topic, why not a Zoroastrian-style burial: the body left at the top of a Tower of Silence to be devoured by scavenging birds!

I don’t know if Catherine will be able to meet followers of this ancient religion if she finally decides to head to Persia.

Good evening Anne-Claire,

Thanks for sharing your memories. [:)] Religion doesn’t bother me at all. I’m used to listening to a confiteor without flinching, even while dealing with the daily damage it causes. So... anything else, no matter what, for just 17 days, is a tiny little hiccup.

Ashgabat could be an alternative, with the unbeatable advantage that nobody’s ever heard of it and the silence that comes with it. But, well, it’s got nothing to do with density.

If my employer gives me one more day than I’m officially entitled to, I’ll tell you all about it. [;)]

Catherine

Maybe I should say this in the Thoughts and Reflections section (and not in the Middle East one where this topic unfortunately ended up. Ugh, it’s so annoying!)...

2012. The summer trip is ready. Venice-Tartous by ferry, then Aleppo, Damascus, Jordan, Jerusalem, Alexandria-Venice. The situation in Syria is uncertain. We... postpone... I’ll never sleep in the Baron Hotel, I’ll never watch the sunrise over Palmyra from the terrace of the Zenobia Hotel. It’s over, for good. I (just a tiny, insignificant human in the face of the pain that unfolded there) will forever feel like a part of me is missing.

You should never let an opportunity pass, even if it’s uncertain.

C.

I don’t know if you’ve already left or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be taking hold in the country.

Yeah, but at least it’ll give us a travel journal as eventful as it is poetic.

Turkmenistan would be a very poor alternative to Iran, which remains one of the most extraordinary countries I’ve visited—especially for the encounters and hospitality. Sure, that was decades ago, but I know that in that regard, things haven’t changed much. I only found that kind of atmosphere again much later in Syria. My wife really wants to go to Iran but is put off by the mandatory headscarf rule. Instead of shaving her head (too drastic), I suggested she wear a swim cap. She’s thinking about it.

I suggested that instead of shaving her head (too drastic), she wear a swimming cap.

I’m not sure the mullahs would look kindly on this subversion of their vision of Islam...

There’s also the Orthodox Jewish method: the wig! But that would be even worse...

Hi Agnes,

I don’t know if you’ve already left or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be spreading across the country.

The agency canceled the trip.

Catherine

Good evening Agnès

I don’t know if you’ve left yet or if you’re about to, but some unrest seems to be taking hold in the country.

The agency canceled the trip. Catherine

Which tends to prove that, indeed, it’s a legit agency…