Chiang Rai to Pai road in April
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
HO
Hi there, As we’re putting the finishing touches on our travel journal, we could really use your help, please. We’re heading to Thailand in three weeks and will be in Chiang Rai right during the burning season... Will the stunning road between Chiang Rai and Pai still be beautiful? Are the landscapes green like we’d expect at this time of year, or are they dry with gray and brown mountains due to the drought? We were planning to rent a car, but that’s a lot of time we could spend elsewhere if it’s not worth it! Thanks for your help.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

Regarding the burning season, the issue isn’t what you *see* (most of the time, you don’t see it anyway) but the air you breathe. If you’re staying in the North for a while, have pre-existing lung conditions, or are older, it can be rough. Otherwise, it shouldn’t ruin your trip, and the landscapes overall don’t look scorched.

The bigger problem here isn’t the burning—it’s Pai itself. What’s the point of going? The town and its immediate surroundings don’t have any must-see sites that justify the trip up there, and if you’re over 25–30, you’ll likely find it boring. The North has plenty of other towns and villages that are way more interesting and charming than Pai (and far less touristy), like Nan—not just the city but, since you seem open to renting a car, the whole province. As for the road to Pai, I don’t get what people find "sublime" about it. It climbs, there are tons of curves, sure, but calling it "sublime"? If you’ve driven Alpine or Pyrenees roads, you’ve seen much better.
HO Houkka83 ·
Thanks for this really interesting info. We’ll check out Nan and its province, hoping for green rice fields! !
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
April is the hottest month of the year. The green season is mostly, roughly, from mid-May to the end of October. At least the water won’t be too cold in the pools 🙂

I don’t know if there’s still a lot of burning off in April.

Lots of travelers have done the Chiang Mai - Pai - Mae Hong Son - Mae Sariang loop—it’s a real classic. Everyone knows Pai is kind of the backpacker town, but the whole region is gorgeous.

Personally, I didn’t fall in love with Nan and its area.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
GA Gaura Veteran ·
I loved Nan... 30 years ago. We were two couples, the men had white hair and glasses, which really drew attention to our great surprise. We arrived on a flight (which no longer exists) with Thai Airways from Chiang Mai, and we stayed in the city center in a teak hotel, a beautiful construction. I’ll never forget the welcome from a charming young woman who checked us in while gracefully swatting away the huge cockroaches running across the counter. We were quite the curiosity—we only met a handful of Europeans during our stay. A man named Phu from the Yao ethnic group, a guide at a local agency, took us in a 4x4 to meet the local ethnic communities. It was an extraordinary expedition. We visited a Yao village, an ethnic group known for their beautifully embroidered costumes. My friend tried on the women’s headdress—a 7-meter-long strip of indigo cotton wrapped around the head—😉)—but we declined the offer to smoke a little opium with the grandfather who had a stomachache🤪. We also went to a village of an ethnic group that didn’t touch iron, the Htins: all the constructions were lashed together, and the basketry was stunning. Another ethnic group had many blacksmiths; we saw the woman operating the bellows while the husband forged... a gun part. That’s when we understood where those huge old firearms came from that some men carried along the trails we’d taken. We also saw children hunting with slingshots. In the villages or schoolyards, the kids who were sneakily watching us would scatter like a flock of sparrows as we approached. Our guide didn’t speak English except when we came across animals he’d label as "barbecue" or "no barbecue"; I don’t think he spoke much Thai either, but he was adorable. The highlight of the expedition was meeting the Mlabri, called Phi tong Luang by the Thais—I think that means "spirits of the yellow leaves." Their way of life was scattered in the forest: a woman would leave with a man (and a dog) to start a family, settling in the forest near a spring or stream (we were in the mountains), clearing a small area, cutting large leaves to cover the ground and make a roof. They lived off hunting and gathering and moved when the leaves turned yellow (hence their name). Our guide had contacts in neighboring villages where he’d bought meat and tobacco... we climbed into the forest behind him, and he made contact by whistling. We approached a family living exactly as described. We were speechless, feeling like we were meeting prehistoric people. I felt guilty about a sense of unhealthy voyeurism, even though we were warmly welcomed (tobacco was precious to them as it was burned to keep mosquitoes away). It was dark in that jungle, but I had a reflex camera around my neck, lenses of all kinds, and a flash in my backpack... yet I didn’t dare take a single photo of that little family on those few square meters of leaves. A little stream water was diverted to them through bamboo pipes; they had nothing! That image I didn’t capture will forever be etched in my memory and that of my companions. I’ve heard that the Mlabri were later hired by the Hmong to cultivate their land and paid with alcohol. When I see a video of a Mlabri village with houses... it’s very different from what I experienced, but that was government and royal policy. I have a Thai friend who didn’t join us in Nan and told me she wouldn’t have come: since childhood, she’d been told that if she wasn’t good, the Phi Luang would come and take her into the forest.😕 I’m lucky to have so many vivid memories of that trip—I stocked up on embroidery, basketry, and textiles from the ethnic groups around Nan. I hope tourists are still as warmly welcomed in Nan and that the landscapes remain as breathtaking. It seems the farther you get from tourist areas, the better you’re received—so why not Nan?
gaura
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
I went there less than two years ago and really explored the region. It's beautiful, like most regions in Thailand, but in my opinion, not among the most enchanting. Going there 30 years ago must've been something else though!
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
HO Houkka83 ·
Thanks for this lovely account. Unfortunately... after 30 years, it’s certain things won’t have stayed the same.... Have a great weekend.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
And luckily, even if you're not a total adventurer!

Anyway, it's a province where I saw a lot of brand-new roads.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood

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