Séjourner dans la région de Golfito, Costa Rica?
by Surmont
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
j'envisage de séjourner dans le grand sud du costa rica, autour du golfo dulce, Golfito... y a t-il des francophones habitant cette région ou des voyageurs y ayant posé leurs valises assez longtemps pour pouvoir me renseigner sur la qualité de vie que l'on peut y trouver. Le coût de la vie également. Est ce une partie du Costa Rica pas encore trop pourrie par le tourisme? je suis déjà passé plus haut sur Tamarindo il y 3 ans et il me semble qu'il y avait encore des coins sympa. Bien sûr au sud il y plus de pluie mais il y quand même une saison séche. Je viens de prendre ma retraite et ce serait pour passer le prochain hiver. Une ville ou dans les abords immédiats (parce que nous avons passé l'âge de camper et que bien vivre c'est aussi pouvoir bénéficier des services de la ville (Golfito, puerto gimenez???) et des vecteurs de socialisation qu'elle peut offrir même si c'est une petite ville, même et surtout si c'est pittoresque).merci d'avance des éléments qui pourront venir rapIdement nourir mes recherches pour y préparer éventuellement un premiers voyage exploratoir.
bonjour
vous cherchez un endroit qui ne soit pas pourri par le tourisme , pour reprendre vos mots mais vous êtes français alors à partir du moment ou vous souhaitez vous imposer dans un pays étranger , vous êtes vous même touriste!!!!!
Bonjour, regardé a partir de Samara tout le long de la cote jusq'a tamarindo brasilito flamingo et mon village potrero région de guanacaste c'est un coin en saison seche de si l'ont veux dire de novembre a mai, plus ou moins.C'est un beau coin tres paisible et bien vivable, vous savez ils y a des amis qui vive a playa del coco et il adore moi pas vraiment trop de gringos mais tout et dans les gout, , des personnes.Comme vous dite de venir en explorateur et apres posé ses valises est plus que sage.Nous aimons notre village avec 4 playas de la peche artisanal des fetes ticos, ont connais tout le monde dans le village les prix des petite maisons et pas trop cher et c'est bien ainsi, , , , c'est plus que bien pour du long terme.bon ben a plus, , 😎 faut que je parte a la playa peché des huitres, , , a marée base, , , alors a plus a vous surmont et bonne retraite, , , , el marcelo de el potrero..😉
Je remercie moselle 57 et aryflo de leurs contributions. moselle 57 car je n'ai probablement pas été suffisamment explicite et cela me permet de rappeller qu'il ne s'agit pas de tourisme mais d'informations pour préparer un projet de séjour à plus long terme. Ainsi sa contribution a quand même une cetaine utilité. Et pour aryflo, merci, car des petits flaschs comme celui là, ciblant la qualité de vie manifestement en live et géographiquement bien ciblé , c'est exactement ce pourquoi j'ai voulu lancer cette discussion à propos de la qualité de vie sur la côte pacifique sud du costa rica.
😎😏merci a vous surmont si cela a bien plus vous éclairé, Vous savez nous avons des amis qui ont costruit une maison dans la montagne a samara et ils sont tres heureux pour leur retraite d'autre loue et la vie est belle dépent des personnes !!!!voyez-vous ici dans mon village aujourd'hui nous sommes a faire une vente de garage nous vendons linges et articles de toute sorte a petit prix au gens du village et nous fraternisons et avons bien du plaisir, , nous sommes 3 familles et organisons l, événement chaque année...vous voyez ont s'occupe a plein de chose et adorons demeuré ici avec les ticos....bon faut préparé la vente alors bonne journée les nouveaux retraité et pura vida amigos, , , el marcelo de el potrero guanacaste, , , 😎
😉moselle... qui a parlé de s'imposé voyons ca d'un autre oeil pour bien des gens critiqué est plus facile que de conseillé, , , bonne journée a vous, , , soyez souriante la vie passe vite sur cette petite boule, , , el marcelo de potrero... 😄
Merci de ce nouveau flasch de vie; je vois qu'on y retrouve des activités qui ont une dimension un peu universelle _ vente de garage_ on retrouve cela dans les villages ici en France aussi au printemps, ici on dit "vide grenier" ou "brocante" et, effectivement, ce sont des moments agréable de convivialité et de fête spontannée. Je suis content de voir que cela peu aussi exister au Costa Rica et j'espère pour vous que cela c'est bien passé et que vous avez vécu un agréable moment( je ne vous demande même pas comme on le fait ici en France si vous avez eu du beau temps car je suppose qu'à cette saison le climat vous l'assure systématiquement). Vos participations m'ont ammené à prendre un peu plus en considération cette partie nord de la côte pacifique: J'ai surfé sur internet pour essayer de découvrir un peu Samara que je ne connaissais pas . Cela a l'air effectivement assez agréable en plus il semble que ce soit un lieu d'implantation d'école d'apprentissage des langues ce qui est intéressant car dans une optique de séjour il faudra se mettre rapidement à parler espagnol correctement. Il faut maintenant que je tape "properties for sale in Samara" pour voir s'il est encore possible de trouver des petites maisons pas trop chères. A bientôt peut être et bonne continuation dans la "pura vida amigos" comme vous dites.
bonjour a vous, , , non nous sommes les premiers qui le font les vente de garage ailleurs je ne sais si sa se fait.Petit conseil prenez-vous un court d'espagnol a partir de chez-vous mettons 2 semaine pour avoir la base, , , nous l'avons fait ma femme et moi et nous avons plus nous débrouillé en arrivant.Oui samara est un bon départ la playa est bien les gens sympatique et sa parle francais passablement.Je vous conseil (2ieme)de louer pour 1 mois et apres évalué si l'endroit nous convient c'est mieux et si quelquechose nous dérange ont n'a pas payé pour 4 mois.Avez-vous l'intention d'acheté une casa??Si oui prenez bien votre temps, , vous savez au prix qu'ils loue vaut mieux louer que d'acheté ok, , , , pour du long terme ne faite pas affaire avec une agence de voyage sa coute cher $$$ en titi pour rien.Présentement le prix des locations va de 350.$us a 1500.$dépent du secteur, , , moi je dit souvent ont arrive ont prend une petite chambrette ont regarde et l'ont loue plus exgisant mais tres sur.....mais les deux se font bien.Alors bonne journée a vous jeune retraité el marcelo de el potrero, , 😎
hello marcello, merci de votre nouveau message. tout en gardant le fil de cette discussion, je continue par ailleurs mes visites virtuelles de la côte pacifique via internet: en tapant "a potrero" j'ai même trouvé des vues de votre lieu de vie au costa rica(effectivement les paysages semblent ressembler à ceux de Tamarindo où nous étions venu en vacances il ya 3 ans). Cela ne semble pas trop grand; un club de vacances français s'y implante semble-t-il.
quand vous dites que "sa parle français passablement " vers Samara s'agit il de touristes ou d'expatriés qui résident sur place ?
Enfin, effectivement, au moins pour un premier séjour, louer pour un mois ou deux et explorer les différentes opportunités qui peuvent exister jusqu'à trouver le coup de coeur est effectivement la solution que je retiens.
Au fait, il me semble avoir compris que vous passez l'hiver a potrero et que vous retourner au canada l'été; comment gérez vous le problème de vos déplacements à l'intérieur du costarica? est que vous pouvez ne pas avoir de voiture ou est que vous en louer une pour la durée de votre séjour ou encore est ce que vous en avez acheté une que vous laissez là quand vous retournez au canada ? quelle est la meilleure solution à envisager?
quand vous dites que "sa parle français passablement " vers Samara s'agit il de touristes ou d'expatriés qui résident sur place ?
Enfin, effectivement, au moins pour un premier séjour, louer pour un mois ou deux et explorer les différentes opportunités qui peuvent exister jusqu'à trouver le coup de coeur est effectivement la solution que je retiens.
Au fait, il me semble avoir compris que vous passez l'hiver a potrero et que vous retourner au canada l'été; comment gérez vous le problème de vos déplacements à l'intérieur du costarica? est que vous pouvez ne pas avoir de voiture ou est que vous en louer une pour la durée de votre séjour ou encore est ce que vous en avez acheté une que vous laissez là quand vous retournez au canada ? quelle est la meilleure solution à envisager?
Hola nouveau retraité, , , potrero est un petit village d'environ 600 personnes max et qui est loin de resemblé a tamarindo c'est tres typique et nous sommes sur la terre battue, , , sur le bord de 3 playas, , , ici ont se déplace en vélo en taxi a pieds, en el bus, et de temps a autre ont loue une voiture pour une petite virée dans pays...A samara se sont des canadiens francais (québec)qui y vive mais aussi américains, italiens, un peu de tout et bien sur les ticos quand ils leur reste de la place mais passons, , , , , , la meilleur solution pour du court terme exemple 1 mois la vous pouvez louer une voiture sinon pour du long terme peux etre en acheté une mais ca c'est une autre histoire mais sa se fait, , , tout se fait vous savez....avec l'achat qui se passe chez un avocat pour une auto usagé pas de probleme, , faut l'assuré et vous avez une inspection a chaque année sur la voiture....qui n'est pas toujours facile, , parfois au costa rica un petit probleme devien un énorme probleme hahaha mais ont fini toujours par réussir, , , faut pas laché la patate comme y dise au el québec....alors a plus surmont et faite le bon garcon hihi, , , el marcelo de el potrero, , , 😉
belle photo amigo, , , , , mais je me leve a tout les matins avec a peu pres ca devant moi, , , , , , et ce depuis 70 jours, , , 😛 hahaha bonne journée mon p'tit comique de cousin, , , el marcelo a+32, , , 😏
mais je me leve a tout les matins avec a peu pres ca devant moi
Ah, sacré veinard. Je crois que je vais finir par acheter une maison par là. 😎
Ah, sacré veinard. Je crois que je vais finir par acheter une maison par là. 😎
Les concours photos VF
😎hola futur veinard, , , nous n'avons pas de maison au costa rica, , nous arrivons nous louons et nous repartons, , , , ni vue ni connue, , , , au prix qu'ont paye les location sa prend beaucoup de pesos $$$ pour acheté tu sais amigo...😄😄alors c'est pour cette raison que nous avons le el sourire pas de tracas amigo, , une maison j'en ai une au el québec c'est assez , , , , , bonne soirée a toi herikles, , , , , el marcelo a+37 tres tres chaud aujourd'hui, , , , mais bon, , , , , 😏😏
Hola Marcello. je n'ai pas eu trop le temps de penser au costa rica ces 15 derniers jours mais j'y reviens. Oui effectivement pour les déplacements, le bus est probablement une bonne solution:c'est un service qui semble assez bien organisé sur l'ensemble du pays et en plus les tarifs sont trés économiques. Cela nous est déjà arrivé de prendre des transports locaux aux cours de nos voyages (je me souviens des "guaguas" ou des mototaxis); c'est aussi effetivement une bonne façon de s'intégrer au pays réel. Si en plus cela peut éviter d'avoir à se frotter à la bureaucratie et à ses tracasseries , c'est aussi un point positif , car j'ai l'impression qu'effectivement le costa rica n'est pas pour rien un pays de tradition latine: il a l'air assez bien pourvu de ce côté là aussi. Mais bon en France on connait aussi et comme tu dis " il suffit de pas lâcher la patate" .
Je ne lâche non plus pas la patate sur mon projet: je compte bien venir hiverner à la fin de cette année; un jour ou l'autre je passerais voir Potrero(je mettrais une bouteille de vin français dans la valise et j'espère bien qu'on pourra la vider ensemble).
En contrebas, c'est la playa Pan de Azucar, juste au nord de Potrero.
Faut admettre, le coin est top. 😎
Les concours photos VF
bonjour parfait pour le petit rouge surmont, , , la présentement ont est revenu au québec avec des montagnes de neige, , incroyable mais vrai, , , une grosse hiver q'y dise.....mais ici la vie continu est ont se prépare déja pour la prochaine saison, , , , alors bon project et bon courage a vos deux, , , el marcelo de waterloo en estrie...😉
et bien bon courage avec la neige Marcello: j'ai des souvenirs du canada à cette époque ci de l'année, l'île de Vancouver exactement que nous avions parcouru de long en large et du haut en bas il a 3 ans. On avait fait le plein de paysages vraiment GRANDIOSES, de superbes lumières sur l'océan, mais aussi de la pluie mélée de neige. Et on avait eu froid comme jamais au cours d'un voyage. C'est là que je me suis dit l'océan pacifique, oui... mais beaucoup plus au sud....
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In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap. It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!" The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
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WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
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• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
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we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22. We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short. So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day - Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán - Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover: Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22. Actually, I have a few questions: Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough? We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it. Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market. We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day? We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees. We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive. Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost. Thanks so much for your help! Annick
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22. We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short. So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day - Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán - Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover: Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22. Actually, I have a few questions: Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough? We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it. Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market. We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day? We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees. We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive. Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost. Thanks so much for your help! Annick
Hi everyone,
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ?? Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough. Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day? I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times: - How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please? I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕. Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus? Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ?? Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough. Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day? I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times: - How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please? I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕. Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus? Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
Thanks for the tips!
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
Thanks for the tips!
Hi there,
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency. If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t. No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto - The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul - The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán - Antigua, very touristy but beautiful - Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-deux-mois-au-pays-de-la-couleur
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency. If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t. No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto - The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul - The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán - Antigua, very touristy but beautiful - Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-deux-mois-au-pays-de-la-couleur
Hi there,
We’re planning a road trip in Mexico.
Is it feasible to rent a car from Mexico City to Oaxaca? What’s the road safety like?
After that, we’d like to take a domestic flight to the Yucatán. Same question—especially about safety when visiting Palenque.
We have a child, so we don’t want to take any risks with safety.
We speak Spanish and have already lived in Nicaragua for two years.
What’s the weather like in August? We’re a bit unsure.
Thanks for your help and tips!
Marc
We’re planning a road trip in Mexico.
Is it feasible to rent a car from Mexico City to Oaxaca? What’s the road safety like?
After that, we’d like to take a domestic flight to the Yucatán. Same question—especially about safety when visiting Palenque.
We have a child, so we don’t want to take any risks with safety.
We speak Spanish and have already lived in Nicaragua for two years.
What’s the weather like in August? We’re a bit unsure.
Thanks for your help and tips!
Marc
Hi there,
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy). So, we’re leaning toward something like this: - Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city) - Puebla: 3 days - Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?) - Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours) - Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Thanks for your help!
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy). So, we’re leaning toward something like this: - Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city) - Puebla: 3 days - Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?) - Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours) - Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Hello,
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala. Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua - Atitlán - Lanquín - Río Dulce - El Remate – Flores - Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín - Lanquín – Río Dulce - Río Dulce – El Remate - Flores – Guatemala City
Thanks for your help
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala. Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua - Atitlán - Lanquín - Río Dulce - El Remate – Flores - Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín - Lanquín – Río Dulce - Río Dulce – El Remate - Flores – Guatemala City
Thanks for your help
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
Hi everyone,
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Thanks, and have a great week.
Marie.
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Thanks, and have a great week.
Marie.
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi,
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are: - Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier? - Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Thanks for your answers.
Claire
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are: - Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier? - Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Thanks for your answers.
Claire
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things: - **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island? - **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend? - **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres. Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour. Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 2 – February 22nd**: Ek’ Balam + Cenote X’Canché → Valladolid
Drive from Cancún to Ek’ Balam (~2h). Visit the archaeological site. Swim at Cenote X’Canché. Drive to Valladolid (~30 min). Overnight in Valladolid.
**Day 3 – February 23rd**: Chichén Itzá → Bacalar
Early departure to Chichén Itzá (~45 min). Guided tour + optional visit to Ik-Kil cenote. Drive to Bacalar (~4h). Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 4 – February 24th**: Bacalar
Boat excursion to the "Laguna of Seven Colors." Cenote Azul + Fuerte San Felipe. Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 5 – February 25th**: Bacalar → Tulum + Ruins, Cenote & Beach
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum. Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view). Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera. End the day at Playa Paraíso. Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal. Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal. Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen. Evening on 5th Avenue. Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino). Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min). Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos. Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport. Return rental car. Return flight.
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things: - **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island? - **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend? - **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres. Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour. Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 2 – February 22nd**: Ek’ Balam + Cenote X’Canché → Valladolid
Drive from Cancún to Ek’ Balam (~2h). Visit the archaeological site. Swim at Cenote X’Canché. Drive to Valladolid (~30 min). Overnight in Valladolid.
**Day 3 – February 23rd**: Chichén Itzá → Bacalar
Early departure to Chichén Itzá (~45 min). Guided tour + optional visit to Ik-Kil cenote. Drive to Bacalar (~4h). Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 4 – February 24th**: Bacalar
Boat excursion to the "Laguna of Seven Colors." Cenote Azul + Fuerte San Felipe. Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 5 – February 25th**: Bacalar → Tulum + Ruins, Cenote & Beach
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum. Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view). Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera. End the day at Playa Paraíso. Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal. Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal. Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen. Evening on 5th Avenue. Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino). Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min). Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos. Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport. Return rental car. Return flight.
Hi there,
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Thanks in advance!
Stéphane
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Thanks in advance!
Stéphane
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
A fantastic trip, dominated by the Altiplano, volcanoes, and especially the Mayan people!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over. In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans. Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy! Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall. The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different. We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over. In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans. Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy! Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall. The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different. We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!






