Où serait le problème? (VTT Decathlon de 1991 de taille 47 cm)
by Gobois64
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à toutes/tous
Tout d'abord tous mes meilleurs voeux de voyages pour toutes/tous !
Ma question :
j'ai un vieux VTT Decathlon de 1991 de taille 47 cm ! J'ai une entrejambe de 83. Je voudrais équiper ce vélo de porte-bagages (j'ai les oeillets de fixation pour cela) et de sacoches et ajouter des poignées corne de vaches. Maintenant que je suis à la retraite, j'envisage de me lancer dans le cyclotourisme de plusieurs jours consécutifs, pas forcément franchir des cols mais plutôt d'explorer les voies vertes, les canaux de notre beau pays.
D'après les discussions des différents forums mon 47 cm ne serait pas trop l'idéal ! En fait je l'ai déjà constaté en roulant une journée entière. J'ai mal aux cervicales et j'ai des engourdissement dans les doigts. Les différents forums donnent les réglages selon les usages "VTT" ou"Route", peut-être des réglages "Rando" seraient-ils différents?
Donc pour résumer : mon vélo est-il vraiment trop inadapté pour ce genre de randonnée et quels seraient les risques physiques encourus ? Quels réglages de base pourraient améliorer la situation ? hauteur de guidon, de selle ? sachant que j'aime bien pédaler à la "hollandaise" (buste droit et non "tête dans le guidon")
En vous remerciant par avance, j'espère grâce à vos conseils, vite préparer ma "monture" pour le nouveau printemps :-)
la "mesure" classique est difficile actuellement, la plupart des cadres étant résolument "slooping" alors que sur un vélo de route "classique" les cadres étaient souvent taillés "au carré" (tube de selle de dimenssion égale au tube horizontal .... on estimait alors que la hauteur du tube de selle devait être approximativement égale à l'entrejambe moins 25 cm (17 cm de manivelle + 8 cm de tige de selle !!!) -
Cela dit, la mesure "primordiale" en matière de confort est le plus souvent la valeur du tube horizontal "virtuel" (mesure prise à l'horizontale entre la potence - juste au dessus de le douille de direction - et la tige de selle ..... on peut en déduire la valeur du tube de selle "théorique" d'un cadre au carré ... et donc de vérifier si il est adapté.... A défaut, quelques adaptations sont possibles (potence "relevée" ou réglable - longueur de potence, avancée de la selle et réglage en hauteur, etc...) mais on ne peut pas tout compenser !!!!
A voir aussi : en début de saison, ou en début de pratique, ou sur de longues distances .... les muscles ne sont pas adaptés à tenir la tête, alourdie d'un casque éventuellement, très relevée ... et ça fait mal au fil des heures !!!! - précautions : faire un peu de muscu spécifique, casque sans visière pour voir la route sans trop relever la tête, s'habituer à regarder (au moins de temps en temps), la route "par en-dessous"...
à vérifier tout celà avant de changer de vélo !!
et bonne année (de voyages sans soufrances !!)
michel mathieu
www.lethieu39.fr
Merci Lethieu pour ta réponse instructive !
J'ai donc mesurer mon tube horizontal comme tu le préconises et j'ai 56 cm. Que cela indiquerait-il ? Sachant que je mesure 1.79 m et que je pèse 75 kg.
Je voudrais bien résoudre ce problème car le confort sur un vélo semble bien, à la lecture des expériences cyclotouristiques que je lis sur ce forum, être un des atouts et conditions de réussite et surtout de poursuite de balades.
Mon vélo est tout de même en acier et encore en bon état donc avant éventuellement de le changer je veux m'assurer qu'il n'est pas adapté à ce genre de pratique.
Cordialement
Si tu fais le calcul entre jambe x 0,56 pour calculer la hauteur d'un cadre VTT tu obtiens 46,48. Donc la taille devrait convenir
Pour la hauteur de selle c'est entre jambe x 0,885, soit 73,45 cm (mesure prise entre l'axe du pédalier et le creux de la selle). La mesure est à ajuster au feeling mais ça donne une indication.
Pour le recul de selle, pédales à l'horizontale, assis en position normale, la face avant du genoux doit tomber sur l'axe de la pédale (au fil à plomb).
Pour la longueur, cela dépends de l'intensité à laquelle tu roule, si tu aime une position "hollaidaise", je suppose que tu roule relax. Donc pour obtenir cette position il n'y a pas 36 solutions, il faut monter la potence et/ou augmenter son inclinaison et éventuellement la raccourcir. Ça dépends de la souplesse et du style de chacun, il n'y a pas de formule magique pour la longueur. Si tu as déjà une potence de 40 mm relevé au maximum, tu n'a plus trop de marge de manœuvre et alors il faudra peut être voir du côté d'un cadre dont la géométrie est prévu pour roulé "relevé". Sinon tu peux commencer par jouer sur la potence pour trouver la bonne position.
Tu peut aussi monter un cintre relevé ou papillon pour relever la position car ce n'est pas très bon de relever la potence au maximum surtout si ce n'est pas de l'aheadset (à cause du porte-à-faux).
Voilà, j'espère que ça t'aidera :)
Voilà, j'espère que ça t'aidera :)
http://lebraquetdelaliberte.com/
Guide gratuit sur le voyage à vélo --> http://minu.me/8njr
Communauté des Voyageurs à vélo sur Google+ : http://minu.me/c509
taille 56, pour un vélo "classique" était la mesure moyenne (taille autour de 1,75 ....) - A mon avis, il devrait convenir : l'écart n'est pas très important !!!
Perso, j'utilise, en voyage, un ancien VTT "rigide" (fourche avant fixe) d'une taille légèrement inférieure à celle de mon vélo "route" ... donc, à priori, avec un équipement assez équivalent à ton vélo actuel ... Reste les réglages , l'adaptation à de "longues" pédalées (mais on peut commencer avec des étapes pas trop longues, et surtout faire des arrêts courts mais fréquents ....
michel mathieu
www.lethieu39.fr
Oui c'est vrai aussi que lorsque l'on reprends le vélo après de longues années (ou même quelques semaines pour ceux qui roulent beaucoup), peu importe la position, il faudra passer par les mal de dos, cervicales...
Il faut y aller progressivement...
http://lebraquetdelaliberte.com/
Guide gratuit sur le voyage à vélo --> http://minu.me/8njr
Communauté des Voyageurs à vélo sur Google+ : http://minu.me/c509
Merci à tous les deux pour vos réponses.
Donc à vous lire rien de rédhibitoire concernant mon "engin" :-) Reste à m'entrainer progressivement et régulièrement pour muscler mes cervicales :-)
Il faut que je regarde si je peux augmenter ma hauteur de potence, car oui je roule "cool". Ma longueur axe pédalier et fond de selle est 71.5. Mais si je la monte je vais me retrouver avec la tête encore plus en extension, n'est-ce pas ? Délicat, délicat que tous ces réglages !!!
Merci Berhrt pour ton lien, je vais lire attentivement ton article "Quelle taille..."
Cordialement
Oui en montant la selle tu va être couché un tout petit peu plus, mais pédaler dans une mauvaise position n'est pas la solution non plus, tu va te fatiguer plus vite.
La hauteur de selle est aussi une question de souplesse, cette formule est une moyenne, pour quelqu'un qui reprends le vélo il est normale d'être positionné un peu en dessus. Même Armstrong lorsqu'il est revenu après 3 ans d'absence était plus bas sur son vélo. Moi je ne suis pas souple, entrainé ou non je suis légèrement en dessous de la valeur indiqué par la formule.
En fait, la règle c'est de monter la selle au maximum dans la mesure où ça ne créé pas gênes (on ne doit pas se déhancher sur la selle ni sentir de tensions articulaires).
http://lebraquetdelaliberte.com/
Guide gratuit sur le voyage à vélo --> http://minu.me/8njr
Communauté des Voyageurs à vélo sur Google+ : http://minu.me/c509
Pour le réglage de position, le plus délicat est sans doute le recul de selle ... Il est courant que l'on doive tâtonner avant de trouver la "bonne" position .... Au niveau des sensations, on doit parvenir à un équilibre parfait, malgré l'effort ... en fait, l'idéal, c'est de parvenir à lâcher le guidon sans cesser de pédaler - ou du moins, on doit pouvoir, à l'effort, ne pas "peser" sur le guidon ...
Une fois, le résultat obtenu, la hauteur de guidon n'est plus un problème aussi important !!!
nb : j'ai mis plusieurs années avant de trouver mes réglages optimum ... et certains "pros" aussi ... Bonne chance !!!
michel mathieu
www.lethieu39.fr
Le VTT par définition est un vélo pour s'amuser sur terrain difficile avec plein de bosses, ou des flancs de colline qu'on dévale. On est plus souvent debout qu'assis. Bref il n'a jamais été conçu pour être un vélo de ville ou de randonnée. Donc c'est tout à fait normal d'avoir mal en randonnée.
Il peut arriver qu'un cadre corresponde pile poile à notre morphologie et soit confortable comme une bonne paire de chaussure mais apparemment ce n'est pas ton cas.
Le guidon droit d'un vtt est fait pour avoir beaucoup de force et de contrôle ce qui est nécessaire en terrain difficile mais pas pour être bien quand on est en appui dessus.
Les pneus de vtt ne sont pas fait pour rouler sur un terrain facile ce qui est le cas le plus souvent en randonnée car ils accrochent trop.
Non même quand on débute ce n'est pas normal d'avoir mal aux cervicales, aux épaules, aux mains car c'est un pb de posture pas d'entrainement ou de muscle. Malgré tous les réglages j'avais ce genre de douleur sur mon vtc. La seule solution a été de changer mon guidon droit pour un papillon.
Par contre aux fesses les 2 premières années c'est normal. Au-delà si ça continue il faut se poser des questions. Avoir mal de temps en temps au-delà de la deuxième année est normal. Il est vraiment difficile de trouver la bonne selle.
Pour les douleurs dans les jambes (genou, pied) qu'on débute ou non c'est parce qu'on force trop. Il faut écouter son corps. Ce n'est pas normal d'avoir mal. Il faut ralentir et diminuer son braquet.
La posture en randonnée est le plus souvent une posture pour profiter du spectacle. C'est la posture du vélo de ville. On est légèrement penché (5 à 10 °) pour protéger la colonne vertébrale. Le poids repose essentiellement sur les fesses et légèrement sur le guidon. Bien sûr dans une montée ou face au vent là la posture est plus celle d'un coureur. Ces 2 postures sont permises avec un papillon (ouvert dans le bas)
Le vélo de randonnée idéal est un vélo de ville avec des roues de 559 mm, des développements quasiment de vtt (pignons commençant à 13 ou 14 dents, pas très utile en dessous) avec un guidon papillon et des roues équipées de pneus lisse au milieu, large (40 mm) et avec des bon crampons sur les cotés pour pouvoir rouler sur un terrain un peu difficile qu'on est amené à rencontrer : chemin de terre, d'herbe, traversé de champ etc. J'ai un vtc (roue de 622 mm) équipé ainsi. J'ai pu faire une partie du canal du rhône qui est plutôt d'un niveau vtt facile à moyen (c'est sportif !).
Il peut arriver qu'un cadre corresponde pile poile à notre morphologie et soit confortable comme une bonne paire de chaussure mais apparemment ce n'est pas ton cas.
Le guidon droit d'un vtt est fait pour avoir beaucoup de force et de contrôle ce qui est nécessaire en terrain difficile mais pas pour être bien quand on est en appui dessus.
Les pneus de vtt ne sont pas fait pour rouler sur un terrain facile ce qui est le cas le plus souvent en randonnée car ils accrochent trop.
Non même quand on débute ce n'est pas normal d'avoir mal aux cervicales, aux épaules, aux mains car c'est un pb de posture pas d'entrainement ou de muscle. Malgré tous les réglages j'avais ce genre de douleur sur mon vtc. La seule solution a été de changer mon guidon droit pour un papillon.
Par contre aux fesses les 2 premières années c'est normal. Au-delà si ça continue il faut se poser des questions. Avoir mal de temps en temps au-delà de la deuxième année est normal. Il est vraiment difficile de trouver la bonne selle.
Pour les douleurs dans les jambes (genou, pied) qu'on débute ou non c'est parce qu'on force trop. Il faut écouter son corps. Ce n'est pas normal d'avoir mal. Il faut ralentir et diminuer son braquet.
La posture en randonnée est le plus souvent une posture pour profiter du spectacle. C'est la posture du vélo de ville. On est légèrement penché (5 à 10 °) pour protéger la colonne vertébrale. Le poids repose essentiellement sur les fesses et légèrement sur le guidon. Bien sûr dans une montée ou face au vent là la posture est plus celle d'un coureur. Ces 2 postures sont permises avec un papillon (ouvert dans le bas)
Le vélo de randonnée idéal est un vélo de ville avec des roues de 559 mm, des développements quasiment de vtt (pignons commençant à 13 ou 14 dents, pas très utile en dessous) avec un guidon papillon et des roues équipées de pneus lisse au milieu, large (40 mm) et avec des bon crampons sur les cotés pour pouvoir rouler sur un terrain un peu difficile qu'on est amené à rencontrer : chemin de terre, d'herbe, traversé de champ etc. J'ai un vtc (roue de 622 mm) équipé ainsi. J'ai pu faire une partie du canal du rhône qui est plutôt d'un niveau vtt facile à moyen (c'est sportif !).
Bonjour Vfpromeneur,
j'ai lu avec attention ta réponse, elle me semble très judicieuse, non parce qu'elle va dans le sens de mes interrogations, mais parce que, comme tu le démontres, un VTT ne peut pas être un VTC et encore moins une vélo de randonnée confortable. Cela me paraît logique, sinon il n'y aurait pas toutes ces différentes appellations !
Depuis le lancement de cette discussion j'ai ajouté des grandes cornes de guidon et déjà j'ai noté du mieux !
Ah, je ne connaissais pas ces pneus à partie lisse au milieu, je suis vraiment trop débutant !!!
Une question toujours de débutant ? lorsque tu parles de pignons à 13 ou 14 dents !!! Quesaco ?
Dois-je compter le nombres de dents sur mes 3 plateaux (de devant au niveau du pédalier) ou bien compter les dents au niveau de mes 7 plateaux au niveau de la roue arrière ?
Cette année je projette de parcourir le littoral aquitain, mais en avant saison je ferais quelques randonnées de week-end (sur 2 ou 3 jours).
Que me conseillerais-tu de faire ? si les douleurs persistent, plutôt envisager d'acheter un vrai vélo de rando ? ou essayer de changer quelques éléments vitaux sur mon VTT ?
Je te remercie de ta réponse et à bientôt de te lire
Cordialement
lorsque tu parles de pignons à 13 ou 14 dents !!! Quesaco ?
les pignons sont des roues dentées fixées sur l'axe de la roue arrière. les plateaux sont des roues dentées fixées sur l'axe du pédalier.
réglage de base du vélo : - hauteur de selle : assis le talon posé sur la pédale en position basse la jambe doit être tendue (+- 1 cm). Il existe des prolongateur de tide de selle.
- hauteur du guidon : jouer sur le réglage de la tige et de la potence(si réglable) du guidon, sur le réglage en rotation du guidon afin d'être quasi assis comme j'en ai parlé. - la selle doit être horizontale - reculer ou avancer la selle jusqu'à ce que ton postérieur soit entièrement sur la selle en pédalant. le postérieur ne doit pas être sur le bout avant de la selle.
Une tige de selle à suspension est vraiment un plus car ça secoue bien par moment. Ta colonne vertébrale te remerciera (ça ne protège pas vraiment du mal de fesse). ça peut-être long avant que la suspension soit moelleuse.
Si malgré tous ces réglages, il y a toujours des pb. alors il faut envisager: - un guidon papillon à ouverture vers le bas (attention différent diamètre de tube ! doit être identique au diamètre acceptable par la potence, nécessité probable de rallonger de 2 cm la potence) - de changer de vélo.
Je te rassure j'ai fait mes 2 premières saisons sur du plat en ayant mal au cou, à l'épaule droite et en ayant un ou deux doigts engourdis malgré de bons réglages et avant de changer mon guidon. Il ne m'est rien arrivé de grave. c'est juste (très) désagréable. tu envisage le littoral aquitain donc tu ne vas pas surmener ton corps.
Je ne vois pas la nécessité de changer tes pignons et plateaux car les développement de vtt conviennent pour la randonnée sauf si on veut fignoler. De toute façon rien ne vaut ton expérience.
si tu fais ta première saison sur du plat, tu peux garder tes pneus de vtt. attention si tu change de pneus les jantes acceptent différentes tailles de pneus mais dans certaines limites(diamètre). Voir la fiche technique de la jante sur le site du constructeur de la jante. par example ma jante mavixc a319 accepte les diamètres de 28 à 47 mm.
les pneux lisses au milieu et cranté sur les bords différentes marques en font : - Schwalbe "marathon plus tour" http://www.schwalbe.com/fr/fr/produkte/tour_city/produkt/index.php5?flash=1&ID_Produktgruppe=36&ID_Produkt=133&ID_Land=7&ID_Sprache=5&ID_Einsatzbereich=9&tn_mainPoint=Produkte&tn_subPoint=Tour/City
- Vredestein "perfect trek" http://www.vredestein.fr/pneus-pour-deux-roues/tour-trek-city/excellent-line/perfect-trek/info/
les Vredestein sont difficiles à trouver
les pignons sont des roues dentées fixées sur l'axe de la roue arrière. les plateaux sont des roues dentées fixées sur l'axe du pédalier.
réglage de base du vélo : - hauteur de selle : assis le talon posé sur la pédale en position basse la jambe doit être tendue (+- 1 cm). Il existe des prolongateur de tide de selle.
- hauteur du guidon : jouer sur le réglage de la tige et de la potence(si réglable) du guidon, sur le réglage en rotation du guidon afin d'être quasi assis comme j'en ai parlé. - la selle doit être horizontale - reculer ou avancer la selle jusqu'à ce que ton postérieur soit entièrement sur la selle en pédalant. le postérieur ne doit pas être sur le bout avant de la selle.
Une tige de selle à suspension est vraiment un plus car ça secoue bien par moment. Ta colonne vertébrale te remerciera (ça ne protège pas vraiment du mal de fesse). ça peut-être long avant que la suspension soit moelleuse.
Si malgré tous ces réglages, il y a toujours des pb. alors il faut envisager: - un guidon papillon à ouverture vers le bas (attention différent diamètre de tube ! doit être identique au diamètre acceptable par la potence, nécessité probable de rallonger de 2 cm la potence) - de changer de vélo.
Je te rassure j'ai fait mes 2 premières saisons sur du plat en ayant mal au cou, à l'épaule droite et en ayant un ou deux doigts engourdis malgré de bons réglages et avant de changer mon guidon. Il ne m'est rien arrivé de grave. c'est juste (très) désagréable. tu envisage le littoral aquitain donc tu ne vas pas surmener ton corps.
Je ne vois pas la nécessité de changer tes pignons et plateaux car les développement de vtt conviennent pour la randonnée sauf si on veut fignoler. De toute façon rien ne vaut ton expérience.
si tu fais ta première saison sur du plat, tu peux garder tes pneus de vtt. attention si tu change de pneus les jantes acceptent différentes tailles de pneus mais dans certaines limites(diamètre). Voir la fiche technique de la jante sur le site du constructeur de la jante. par example ma jante mavixc a319 accepte les diamètres de 28 à 47 mm.
les pneux lisses au milieu et cranté sur les bords différentes marques en font : - Schwalbe "marathon plus tour" http://www.schwalbe.com/fr/fr/produkte/tour_city/produkt/index.php5?flash=1&ID_Produktgruppe=36&ID_Produkt=133&ID_Land=7&ID_Sprache=5&ID_Einsatzbereich=9&tn_mainPoint=Produkte&tn_subPoint=Tour/City
- Vredestein "perfect trek" http://www.vredestein.fr/pneus-pour-deux-roues/tour-trek-city/excellent-line/perfect-trek/info/
les Vredestein sont difficiles à trouver
Merci infiniment de tous tes conseils !
bonne journée à toi Vfpromeneur
Cordialement
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I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
Hi there,
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share with you the incredible feat my friend José, who’s 72 years old, is currently undertaking. He left Auterive near Toulouse on Monday, May 18, 2026, on his non-electric bike, heading for the North Cape in Norway!
You can follow his route on the link below—he’s currently in Sweden:
https://thierry-thomas.travelmap.net/jose-de-toulouse-a-nord-cap-2026
You can zoom in on the map and click on each stopover town to see the photos
Hi there!
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

Hi, I'm looking for a Pino tandem bike for sale in Quebec and I can't find any. Does anyone have any info, please? Thanks a bunch!
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April.
Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys!
Claudio (still from Faverges)
dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin)
from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross)
The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice.
I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island,
but it sounds a bit stressful.
Has anyone already tackled this route?
Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/
Claudio
Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/
Claudio

Hi there,
I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).
So, I’ve got quite a few questions:
* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?
* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?
* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?
If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!
Thanks in advance for your help!
I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).
So, I’ve got quite a few questions:
* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?
* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?
* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?
If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!
Thanks in advance for your help!