Je suis preneur de tous renseignements utiles concernant le parcours précité (état de la piste, difficultés éventuelles, hôtels, restaurants, sites à ne pas manquer...)
Voyage aller retour à effectuer tranquillement en deux semaines.
Merci d'avance à tous ceux qui pourront me renseigner.
Bonjour,
J'ait fait ce trajet en octobre dernier, excellent souvenir ... (après une première tentative en 2012, où j'ai été bloquée en route par la météo)
Une nuit à Sonieran chez "Natafred", bungalow sympa, qui le sera sans doute bien plus quand tout sera terminé (d'autres bungalows en construction, le "jardin" un peu en chantier) dans le haut du village, plus au calme qu'au bord de l'embarcadère
J'y ai retrouvé le camion de Clément, qui fait le trajet tous les 2 ou 3 jours jusqu'à Manompana, pour approvisionner l'épicerie que tient sa femme. Belle route(pour le passager) principalement de sable, mais quelques passages à gué à l'arrivée, la hauteur de roues du camion et l'expérience de Clément bienvenues ! Normalement, il y a un pont ?
Petit village, des balades à faire, belle plage. "Les marmailles à la case" est une association qui fait du soutien scolaire, bibliothèque pour enfant ...Quelques km au sud, Sahabeva, très belle grande plage, hôtel de Gilbert, dont je ne me souviens pas du nom.(en 2012..)
Quelques hébergements dans le village (chez Julienne, ou en face), pour ma part j'ai dormi chez Wen Ki, bungalows à la sortie du village, très bel environnement, en bord de plage. eau chaude pour la douche à la demande, restaurant sur place. sinon, la gargotte de Julienne.
Le lendemain j'ai fait du stop, et une voiture hors d'âge m'a emmené jusqu'à Sahasoa, difficilement car le "crabotage" était en fin de vie, et si le début de la route est facile, très vite les choses se compliquent, ornières profondes, rochers sur la route, même les petites côtes étaient difficiles.
Sahasoa vaut la peine de s'arrêter, pour faire une pause, d'une part, et pour la plage et l'atmosphère zen du village. Je n'y ai vu qu'un seul hébergement, le gite d'étape de l'Angap géré par les femmes du village. Bungalows propre, en bord de plage,
En face, l'ile Atafana (?) mérite d'y passer une journée , parait-il, je n'y suis pas allée. Le gardien de cette île partait le lendemain chez lui à Mananara et m'a proposé de l'accompagner. Ce que j'ai fait avec plaisir, une petite journée à pied par "les raccourcis", forêt et rizières, arrêt dans les villages, pauses café/beignet, "ranaponga", corrossols en bord de chemin...
Mananara , j'y suis resté 3 jours, hotel chez Roger, qu'on ne peut pas louper.
chambres très propres, grandes, électricité et eau chaude. 1 jour de trop, mais pas de départ de TB. Petit tour à "l'ile aux Aye Aye " de Roger... Agréable, mais pas spectaculaire...
La suite de la route dans un surprenant TB de substitution, le vrai TB étant en panne à Tamatave.
Je pense que c'est ce tronçon qui fait la réputation de cette fameuse RN5, très dur, route défoncée, une belle côte bourrée d'ornières, de cailloux, détour par des plages donc ensablement, etc.. Mais avec l'expérience du chauffeur, même les véhicules en triste état passent, certes très lentement.
1 jour 1/2 pour arriver à Maroantsetra, car arrivée tardive au dernier bac, donc nuit improvisée.
Les bacs ... grande affaire, il y en a plusieurs à prendre, quelques uns à moteur, d'autres à cordes tirées à bras, d'autres sur les radeaux flottants sur un matelas de jerrycans vides propulsés à la perche en bois, quelques fois en panne ...
Mais tout au long de la route, paysages superbes, trouées de la végétation sur la mer, magnifique.
Maroantsetra : il y a un connaisseur sur ce forum, qui ne manquera pas de se manifester ? Hotel "la pagode" très sympa. Les alentours de la ville : sympa. La ville en elle-même ne m'a pas emballée, je m'étais fait une idée d'une petite bourgade dans la verdure...Pour ça, il faut aller dans le parc du Masoala, il faut absolument!. Tampolo, par exemple. J'y suis allé avec le bateau de Max et Fatima, (gérants de "l'hypocampe", qui a également un hôtel à Tampolo, et y emmène ses clients, et quelques fois s'il peut d'autres passagers, dont moi.. personnes d'une gentillesse et convivialité peu courantes) et Dona, un guide de Maroantsetra, m'a rejoint chez "mama Ibena", pour 3 jours de balades. Je peux vous retrouver son tél. si vous souhaitez.
ça m'a occupée 15 jours pour quelques cm sur une carte ... il faudra que j'y retourne, pour faire quelques cm de plus...
En voiture personnelle, et en traînant moins, l'aller retour est certainement faisable en 2 semaines, en prévoyant en bonus un petit tour dans le parc du Masoala.
a+cl
Concernant le temps et l'état de la piste que tu veux emprunter, la meilleure solution est de te renseigner à Tamatave auprès des taxi brousse, car très peu de personnes empruntent cette route et surtout pas les vazaha.
Comme, je te l'ai déjà dit, il faut un 4X4 en excellent état et surtout avec une haute garde au sol, je ne pense pas que tu pourras le faire en totalité avec ton 4X4.
Il faut effectivement du temps pour la faire en totalité surtout aller et retour, car les imprévus sont nombreux, j'en avais eu beaucoup en 2009.
Il y a une partie du trajet que je n'avais pas pu faire, c'est à dire celle de Maraontsetra à Mananara car les taxi brousse ne partaient plus et donc nous avions été obligés de prendre un bateau malgache pour faire ce trajet.
Concernant les arrêts de Mananara à Manompana et bien effectivement " chez Roger " à Mananara, " l'Angap " à Sasoha " chez Grondin " à Antanambe, et " chez Wen ki " à Manompana.
La partie la plus difficile à mon goût a été entre Mananara et Antanambe et cela se corse s'il y a des ornières et qu'il a plut.
Ne pas rater en effet d'aller au parc de Mananara en bateau avec l'Angap, il y a des iles magnifiques mais attention aux oursins qui transpercent facilement les chaussures peut épaisses.
Autre chose à Maraontsetra, il faut aussi aller à Nosy Mangabe en bateau rapide et bien sûr tu peux aussi aller dans le Masoala.
Le point crucial en fait est le moyen de transport pour y aller, les taxi brousse peuvent être en panne, nous avons galérer à Maraontsetra pour redescendre sur Tamatave et heureusement que nous avions trouvé ce bateau de marchandises pour être débloquer.
Cordialement et si tu veux plus de renseignement et bien n'hésite pas.
Jean marc
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
bonjour,
quelques photos des véhicules successifs :
-Le camion de Clément en 2012 (le beige au fond), le même en 2014, il faisait sa première sortie dans ce nouvel habit..
-La voiture qui m'a pris en stop de Manompana à Sahasoa (tombée en panne peu après que je sois descendue à Sahasoa, donc nuit en route, m'a dit le chauffeur que j'ai revu plus tard à Maroantsetra)
-Le TB de substitution de Mananara à Maroantsetra
-et une petite dernière, parce que c'était un beau parcours
Ce ne sont effectivement pas des voitures de petits bras .. et les chauffeurs connaissaient bien leur mécanique donc pas de vraie panne pendant que j'y étais, et la route pour l'avoir faite plusieurs fois . Et donc pas de problème non plus avec les bacs, sauf 1, attente due à la marée qui devait remplir le passage si j'ai bien compris.
Le temps sur la route a été de 5 j, dont 1 à pied. Je crois que j'ai eu de la chance
Pour repartir de Maroantsetra, il y a depuis peu une nouvelle compagnie de bateau, St Louis express, qui part selon la marée (2h du matin ) vers Tamatave (arrivée 14h) quelque soit le nombre de passager. Légèrement plus cher que Mélissa (réduction pour les plus de 60 ans, du jamais vu !) A+cl
Merci pour cet ensemble de renseignements qui me seront utiles pour ce voyage , normalement prévu en octobre prochain. J'en continue la préparation et ne manquerai pas d'en faire un petit compte rendu sur le forum.
Merci encore.
Merci pour les renseignements fournis. Je serai accompagné par un chauffeur mécanicien qui connait bien et la route et mon véhicule. Nous avons eu l'occasion de circuler ensemble à plusieurs reprises.
Et si nous ne pouvons pas aller jusqu'au bout et bien nous aviserons sur place.
Je me doute bien qu'il n'y a pas de nombreux touristes sur ce trajet, trop long en temps pour des vacanciers. J'ai fixé à priori deux semaines, mais s'il en faut trois ce n'est pas un problème.
Vos photos à tous les deux sont très belles et pme donnent encore plus l'envie de visiter cet endroit.
Salut!
Je l'ai fait il ya quelques années avec mon petit 4x4 suzuk que je conduisais moi meme, à peu pres le meme que le tien. C'était passé sans probleme. Depuis la piste s'est terriblement dégradée, quand je l'ai refait en moto, j'ai tout cassé. beaucoup de ponts dégradés, il faut passer par la riviere ou la plage à marée basse. je ne sais pas comment c'est actuellemnt, tu devrais te renseigner à la gare routiere de tmtve, au prés des chauffeurs.
Pour moi cette piste est un must, à faire absolument.
Amicalement.
Je savais que tu connaissais cet endroit réputé comme une très belle région de Madagascar.
Je me renseignerai avant de partir et ensuite et bien on verra 😉
Amicalement
je voudrais faire ce tronçon mois octobre ou novembre départ Ste Marie mais il me faut trouver un guide chauffeur avec un bon véhicule mon ami guide chauffeur de Tana pas emballé pour ce parcours !!!!
mais moins de 2 semaines je recherche une liaison Bateau Ste Marie Maroantsetra peut être que sur place j ai fait des recherches par demandes de renseignements par mail mais " aucune réponse" amitiés michel
bonjour
Gilbert est rentré en France pour raison de santé. Véro sa femme est toujours sur place mais l'hôtel "au bout du monde" n'est opérationnel que pour les quelques amis (es) de passage.
.Quelques km au sud, Sahabeva, très belle grande plage, hôtel de Gilbert, dont je ne me souviens pas du nom.(en 2012..)
"Les miroirs feraient bien de réfléchir avant de renvoyer les images"
Bonjour,
De retour sur le forum ?
Dommage pour l'hôtel "au bout du monde", c'est toujours un peu désolant de voir une belle structure fermer, quelqu'en soit la raison, encore plus pour raison de santé !
Cordialement
A+ CL
Bonjour Alain
Moi aussi je suis en demande de renseignements concernant un petit raid vtt de ste marie mahambo puis
Soanirana - maroantsetra-sambava
Et possibilité de continuer sur vohemar/ambilobé pour retour sur majunga en tb
Si tu as des infos a partager, je suis preneur.
Mon depart est prévu debut avril et retour fin juin 2017
Merci bcp
Veloma
Thierry
Je pense que tu trouveras avec la fonction "rechercher", sur ce forum, une multitude de discussions à ce sujet, dont certaines par moi même. Mais si tu as besoin d'un détail, n'hésite pas! Simplement on ne peut pas réécrire toujours la même chose!
Je n'ai pas utilisé de fonction gps à mada. On m'a dit du bien de mapsme qu'on télécharge au préalable puis qui fonctionne sans connexion. Sur mada je ne sais pas, je testerai la prochaine fois. Entre Sonierana et Maroantsetra tu n'as pas besoin il n'y a qu'un chemin, il suffit de suivre la mer.
J'aurai besoin de connaitre l'état du réseaux routier entre Tamatave et Soanierana Ivongo en mars prochain. J'ai 6 jours pour me rendre depuis Tamatave à…
Le catamaran Savannah V n'a rien a voir avec le Melissa question sécurité puisque catamaran = 2 coques // donc stable - alors que le Melissa est une coque…
Je serai à Antalaha au mois d'octobre, et vais devoir me rendre à Maroantsetra. J'ai entendu dire que c'était possible par bateau, mais je ne trouve aucune…
Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
