Trajet Casamance-Gambie
by Philipecesar
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Est-ce que le moyen de joindre la Gambie depuis Kaolack est toujours complique? dans ce cas est il judicieux de passer en Gambie en venant de la Casamance?Faire le visa a Dakar, puis bateau, puis taxi ou bus?
Merci
Luc,
merci pour le message.Banjul et les plages de Gambie sont assez proche de la Casamance, c est pourquoi je vais peut etre passer par le bas.
Bonne soiréee
Eric
Salut,
Juste pour info, tu cherches juste à rejoindre les plages de Gambie?
Car si tu passes en Casamance, tu as quand même de belles plages hyper tranquilles et dans le même style que la Gambie au nord de la basse Casamance vers Abene... C'est même bien mieux que Kafountine qui est réputée...
Juste pour info, tu cherches juste à rejoindre les plages de Gambie?
Car si tu passes en Casamance, tu as quand même de belles plages hyper tranquilles et dans le même style que la Gambie au nord de la basse Casamance vers Abene... C'est même bien mieux que Kafountine qui est réputée...
Luc,
merci pour le message.Banjul et les plages de Gambie sont assez proche de la Casamance, c est pourquoi je vais peut etre passer par le bas.
Bonne soiréee
Eric
bonjour, en plus, il n'y a personne sur les plages gambiennes, à gundjur, et carton dans le sud gambien, c assez sympa, et il y a des campements bord de mer sympas !!
bon séjour !!
patrick
bonjour, en plus, il n'y a personne sur les plages gambiennes, à gundjur, et carton dans le sud gambien, c assez sympa, et il y a des campements bord de mer sympas !!
bon séjour !!
patrick
😎 😄 😎
Bonsoir Olive,
Merci pour ton message.Finalement je m arreterai a Kaolack, car j 'y ai trouvé un bénevolat chez des soeurs qui me plaira j 'espère.Si tu connais cette ville et que tu as des tuyaux, d'avance je te remercie
Eric
Bonsoir Patrick,
Comme je l'ai signalé à Olive , je m arreterai cette fois ci à Kaolack.Si l 'expérience est agréable , j 'y retournerai et pourquoi pas visiterai cette fois là la Gambie.Que faut il éviter à Kaolack, qui semble sale?
bON DIMANCHE
Eric
Bonjour,
Avec ma compagne, nous sommes en route à vélo vers le Mali (à Dakhla à l'heure actuelle).
On aimerait se rendre en Casamance en traversant la Gambie et si possible y faire un bout de route le long du fleuve avant de re-rentrer au Sénégal.
Connaissez-vous les postes de frontières ouverts depuis le Sénégal (partie nord) vers la Gambie, puis de la Gambie vers le sud du Sénégal ?
Quant au visa, peut-on l'obtenir à la frontière ou est-il préférable de la faire à Dakar (que l'on aimerait éviter) ?
Désolé de peut-être reposer la question mais je n'ai pas vu d'info récentes.
Merci pour vos réponses.
Matt
Avec ma compagne, nous sommes en route à vélo vers le Mali (à Dakhla à l'heure actuelle).
On aimerait se rendre en Casamance en traversant la Gambie et si possible y faire un bout de route le long du fleuve avant de re-rentrer au Sénégal.
Connaissez-vous les postes de frontières ouverts depuis le Sénégal (partie nord) vers la Gambie, puis de la Gambie vers le sud du Sénégal ?
Quant au visa, peut-on l'obtenir à la frontière ou est-il préférable de la faire à Dakar (que l'on aimerait éviter) ?
Désolé de peut-être reposer la question mais je n'ai pas vu d'info récentes.
Merci pour vos réponses.
Matt
Le vélo, c'est bien, même pour celleux qui n'en font pas.
Bonjour,
J'ai fait le trajet France Mali à vélo d'oct à dec dernier. Je l'avais fait aussi fin 2012 sans pouvoir entrer au Mali compte tenu des évènements.
Pour aller du Sénégal nord en Casamance, je suis passé par la Gambie. Route St Louis - Thiès (qui évité Dakar) et direction Mbour. Petite détour par le village côtier de Poponguine qui vaut le coup (bien moins touristique qu'MBour).
Ensuite route MBOUR - FATIK (attention la route est très dangereuse car très fréquenté par camions et bus). Je me suis jeté 2 fois sur le bas-côté pour éviter des faces à face avec des bus cinglés. a FATIK , prendre à droite direction Foundioune et prendre direction Sokone. La région du Siné Saloun vaut le détour et mérite la visite. J'avais fait un halte à Toubakouta où il y de nombreuse pôssibilité d'hébergement (campements) et excursions possibles en pirogue.
Se diriger ensuite plein sud vers le poste de frontière de Karang. Visa sur place rapide (compter 20 000 H CFA de mémoire). Encore une trentaine de km et vous arrivez à Barra où on prend le bac pour pas très cher.
Arrivée dans le centre de Banjul. Ensuite en une journée vous pouvez à vélo parvenir au poste de frontière de Séléti en passant par la ville de Brikama. Ici à Séléti vous entrez à nouveau au Sénégal en haute Casamance.
La route que je vous indique évite de faire un très gros détour qui passe par la route de Kaolak, Nioro et Farenni.
Cette route est pénible , longue et dangereuse (camions, bus etc...). Le passage du bac est pas cher et le vis de transit non plus mais bon, gros détour pour aller vers Zigunchor si vous y allez.
La route par la haute Casamance est sympa et vous permettre de visiter ce coin magnifique. Ne pas manquer Abéné ET kAFOUNTINE. De nombreuses possibilité de campements. La circulation est interdite la nuit sur les routes de haute Casamance en principe. Mais il n'y a rien à craindre niveau sécurité par rapport à la vieille rébellion qui a eu lieu dans le passé.
Pour aller de Kafountine à Ziguenchor, la route est belle et sympa (env 120 km faisable en une journée).
De Ziguenchor vous avez accès à la basse-Casamane. Ne pas manquez Oussouye. Je vous conseille un super hébergement à l'auberge du routard ( Case à impluvium chez Ghouho). Les villages à visiter sont nombreux et la population est adorable. Je vous en cite quelques-un : MLOMP-ELINKINE- L'île de Karane accessible en piroque d'ELINKINE- CAP-SKIRINE.
Pour aller au Mali, vous avez la route qui va de Ziguenchor-Tambacounda et ensuite KEDOUGOU (proche de la Guinée Bissau en passant par le parc du Nioko-koba. Il y a un poste frontière où vous pourrez prendre le visa malien (faudra demander des renseignements à Kédougou. Il y a une route/piste qui va vers Bamako.
Sinon ha oui, si vous êtes encore en Mauritanie, je vous déconseille de passer par le poste frontière de Rosso. Je l'ai fait et en ai de mauvais souvenir, l'endroit est vraiment glauque. Une autre possibilité bien mieux : passer par le poste frontière de Diama (avoir son visa Sénégal en poche). La route est simple : Nouakchott - Tiquent en 1 journée (très belle). A 40 km de Tiquent vers Rosso, il y a un carrefour assez grand (avec poste de police en principe). Prendre route à droite très belle sur 38 km et vous atteindrez un village dont je ne me souviens plus du nom. Ravitaillement possible, hébergement également. Ensuite piste et vous entrez dans le fameux pars du Diawling. Cette piste est sèche à cette saison. Encore 30 km environ et possibilité de dormir dans le parc (hébergement 10 km avant frontière) juste à l'endroit où vous trouverez des gardes pour vous faire payer le parc. Le matin, de bonne heure vous pouvez voir des colonie de pélican voir même des flamands roses, c'est magnifique. La frontière se passe facilement et 40 km après vous êtes à St Louis. Cette ville (que j'adore) mérite une bonne visite. Na pas rater la zone de la "langue de barbarie" où il y a de nombreuse possibilité d'hébergement de rêve entre océan et fleuve Sénégal. Je vous en cite un : l'auberge Pélican tenu par un couple de franco - Sénégalais. Hébergement (en case tout près de l'océan). Voilà, désolé, j'ai été un peu long, mais c'est pour la bonne cause. Je vous souhaite un bon voyage. A Bamako, une bonne adresse : rive sud du fleuve l'auberge Djamilla tenue par une jeune suissesse sympa (havre de paix au milieu de l'effervessence de la ville) et aussi une autre auberge juste à côté qui porte le nom de Camel quelque chose (ma mémoire me fait défaut) Si vous souhaitez d'autres renseignements, n'hésitez pas à me contacter, sinon, y'a mon blog. Bruno
Sinon ha oui, si vous êtes encore en Mauritanie, je vous déconseille de passer par le poste frontière de Rosso. Je l'ai fait et en ai de mauvais souvenir, l'endroit est vraiment glauque. Une autre possibilité bien mieux : passer par le poste frontière de Diama (avoir son visa Sénégal en poche). La route est simple : Nouakchott - Tiquent en 1 journée (très belle). A 40 km de Tiquent vers Rosso, il y a un carrefour assez grand (avec poste de police en principe). Prendre route à droite très belle sur 38 km et vous atteindrez un village dont je ne me souviens plus du nom. Ravitaillement possible, hébergement également. Ensuite piste et vous entrez dans le fameux pars du Diawling. Cette piste est sèche à cette saison. Encore 30 km environ et possibilité de dormir dans le parc (hébergement 10 km avant frontière) juste à l'endroit où vous trouverez des gardes pour vous faire payer le parc. Le matin, de bonne heure vous pouvez voir des colonie de pélican voir même des flamands roses, c'est magnifique. La frontière se passe facilement et 40 km après vous êtes à St Louis. Cette ville (que j'adore) mérite une bonne visite. Na pas rater la zone de la "langue de barbarie" où il y a de nombreuse possibilité d'hébergement de rêve entre océan et fleuve Sénégal. Je vous en cite un : l'auberge Pélican tenu par un couple de franco - Sénégalais. Hébergement (en case tout près de l'océan). Voilà, désolé, j'ai été un peu long, mais c'est pour la bonne cause. Je vous souhaite un bon voyage. A Bamako, une bonne adresse : rive sud du fleuve l'auberge Djamilla tenue par une jeune suissesse sympa (havre de paix au milieu de l'effervessence de la ville) et aussi une autre auberge juste à côté qui porte le nom de Camel quelque chose (ma mémoire me fait défaut) Si vous souhaitez d'autres renseignements, n'hésitez pas à me contacter, sinon, y'a mon blog. Bruno
Bonjour Bruno,
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse et pour tous ces détails. Je vais relire ça calmement avec la carte sous les yeux. :)
J'avais bien suivi ton blog avant de prendre la route. Merci d'avoir partagé ces infos et retours d'expérience.
Ma compagne a vécu trois ans à Bamako donc nous avons des points de chute. C'est d'ailleurs un peu l'objectif du voyage, d'aller rendre visite à ses amis à vélo. Nous avons également des contacts en Mauritanie et à Saint Louis. Mais merci pour les tuyaux d'hébergement.
Et c'est bien noté pour Diama, j'avais déjà lu cette info là. Merci encore.
A+ Matt
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse et pour tous ces détails. Je vais relire ça calmement avec la carte sous les yeux. :)
J'avais bien suivi ton blog avant de prendre la route. Merci d'avoir partagé ces infos et retours d'expérience.
Ma compagne a vécu trois ans à Bamako donc nous avons des points de chute. C'est d'ailleurs un peu l'objectif du voyage, d'aller rendre visite à ses amis à vélo. Nous avons également des contacts en Mauritanie et à Saint Louis. Mais merci pour les tuyaux d'hébergement.
Et c'est bien noté pour Diama, j'avais déjà lu cette info là. Merci encore.
A+ Matt
Le vélo, c'est bien, même pour celleux qui n'en font pas.
Bonjour,
Si vous avez des points de chute et des amis sur place, vous bénéficierez de bons renseignements sur les pays que vous traversés, c'est l'idéal quand on voyage.
Toutefois, par exemple pour la Casamance que je connais assez bien, n'hésitez pas si vous avez besoin de renseignements.
Bon voyage et profitez-en bien
Bruno
salut le trajet pour la gambie et la casamance n est plus difficile et meme les billets de bateau sont diminues moi qui vous parle je me rend parfois laba mais par voitur merci
vive la teranga
salut vous pouvez prendre l avion puis le bateau pour aller en casamance et en fin le taxi pour la gambie c est possible merci
vive la teranga
Bonjour,
Je suis en train de préparer un voyage au Sénégal. Je vais passer un peu de temps dans le Sine Saloum et ensuite je voudrais aller en Casamance à Elinkine. Savez-vous si je peux obtenir un visa à Karang, sans problèmes.
Le bac à Bunaldu vers Banjul est-il possible pour un ccar de 6m50. Si vous avez une idée du prix, cela m'aiderait.
La sortie à Sileti n'est elle pas trop compliquée.
Merci pour votre aide. Cordialement. jp
Bonjour,
J'ai fait cet itinéraire en nov 2014 mais à vélo. Concernant le bac, je sais que des camions le prennent.
Je me souviens qu'il y avait une bonne queue d'ailleurs, donc mieux vaut venir le matin de bonne heure? En revanche j'ignore le prix, mais ça ne doit pas être bien cher. Et puis cet itinéraire est bien plus court que de passer par KAOLAC et farenni 'visa transit de 24h) où il y a un bac à prendre également 'avec queue évidemment pour les véhicule).
L'itinéraire que tu compte prendre est bien car il permet en outre de découvrir aussi la Gambie qui est un pays différend du Sénégal (c'est l'anglais qui domine mais nombreux sont ceux qui parlent français, notamment à Banjul
Concernant le visa, je l'ai eue à Karang. Je crois 30 000 FCFA. En fai
La route pour aller de Banjuls au poste frontière du Sénégal à Séléti est bonne.
Elle est bonne pour aller jusqu'à Diouloulou. Sinon sur la route, faire bien gaffe aux ornières et ça dans tout la Casamance notamment.
Tu comptes te rendre à Elinkine en basse Casamance, mais il serait dommage en passant si près de rater les villages d'Abéné et Kafountine qui sont des villages très simpa. A Dioulou où il y a un grand carrefour, prendre juste à droite et c'est à 25/28 km (c'était une piste il y a 3 ans et maintenant une route).
Juste un truc : certaines routes sont fermées à partir de 19 h. barrage routier. Bon c'est juste une précaution par rapport à "l'ancienne" rébellion. Je dis ancienne car ces interdictions de circuler sont plus pour éviter tous les trafics nocturnes (armes, drogue ect...).
Tu le fait à quelle époque ton voyage ?
En basse Casamance, si tu vas à Elinkine qui est un beau village de pêcheur, ne rate pas l'île de Carabanne (grandes pirogues qui désert lêle tous les j). Ne rate pas non plus Mlomp, Oussouye, cap Skiring qui vaut le coup de s' arrêter, la plage et les environs sont magnifiques.
Si tu as l'occasion de faire une journée de pêche en pirogue, ça vaut vraiment le coup. La règle : tu paye la journée de 20 à 25 000 FCFA et tu gardes le poisson, et il y en a bcp parfois. Possibilité de faire un mix : pêche et balades pour voir les différentes espèce d'oiseaux.
Un village à ne pas rater dans les environs de cap siring est celui de BOUYOUYE. Prendre la piste (bonne) cap Skiring vers Djembrering. 1 km Avant d'arriver à Djembering, prendre à droite piste sableuse sur 2 km (aucune indication du village mais tout le monde connaît ds le coin). C'est un village très typique de maisons traditionnelles au milieu d'une fabuleuse forêt de fromager. Vraiment très beau.
(je ne pense pas que tu puisses prendre la piste pour y aller en C.C., car j'étais à vélo et chargé, j'en ai bavé).
Un autre site très beau c'est la pointe St George à faire à pieds, 9 km à faire à partir de Mlomp. Le village se situe sur la rive du fleuve Casamance, avec un peu de chance, tu peux voir des lamantins, il y a un observatoire pour celà. Possibilité de dormir sur les berge du fleuve dans auberge très sympas.
Bon si tu as un guide style routard, ils doivent en parler.
Quand j'ai visité la Casamance fin 2014 et la Sénégal en général, c'était en période Ebola et aussi certainement l'effet Daesh, guerre au Mali etc... Du coup, très peu de touriste hormis sur la zone de la petit côte (MBOUR) mais j'ai vite filé au sud. Là vraiment très peu de voyageurs et le pays en souffre beaucoup.
Il n'y a aucun risque particulier à aller là-bas et c'est bien dommage que le tourisme se soit cassé la figure comme cela. Pour l'instant pas de souci.
Je suppose que tu passes en CC par la Mauritannie et donc par le poste frontière de Rosso. Ici, il faut être sur ses gardes (ne donner passeport qu'à la police et à personne d'autres sinon racket). Pour moi qui était à vélo, je j'ai pas un bon souvenir de Rosso. Dernière conseil, ne rate pas St Louis, c'est une de mes ville préférée au Sénégal, la langue de Barbarie etc...
Désolé, j'ai répondu au delà des tes questions...
Bonne journée
Si tu as besoin d'autres renseignement, n'hésite pas.
Bonjour,
Merci pour cette mine de tuyaux. Je vais y aller en déc, janv, fév. Il est vrai que l'on se pose beaucoup de questions et que c'est un soutien moral quand on a des nouvelles fraiches. Mon problème est que j'ai eu d'autres tuyaux pour le passage en Gambie qui ne correspondent pas avec les tiens, surtout ne le prends pas mal car je ne sais pas lesquels sont les plus récents. J'ai bien retenu toutes les belles choses que tu m'as signalées et je possède le Lonely Planet et le guide du routard, mais je préfère les conseils privés. J'attends d'autres avis pour le passage de la frontière en Gambie. Peut-être que j'ai mal compris et je vais relire plus attentionnellement.😉
En général, j'évite de rouler de nuit et de me poser avant.
Cordialement, bonne journée. jp
Déc/janv, c'est une bonne période pour aller là-bas.
Bon, je ne sais pas ce que tu as eu comme infos sur le passage de la Gambie. Les miennes d'infos datent
de 8 mois bien sûr.
Si les questions que tu te posent sont relatives au passage du bac avec ton CC, tu as toujours la possibilité du plan B et passer par Kaolack et Ferreni, c'est plus long mal faisable.
Si elles sont de l'ordre de la sécurité qui règne là-bas, je peux juste te dire que j'ai fait ce trajet à vélo et que ce soit au nord du Sénégal, au sud, en Casamance et même à l'est où j'ai continué sur le Mali de l'ouest, je n'ai pas eu l'ombre d'un soucis, je me suis toujours trouvé en sécurité là-bas. Je rajouterai aussi dans la liste des pays où on peut circuler sans problème vu la présence militaire et policière mis en place, le Maroc et la Mauritanie.
Je sais que pour la Casamance en outre, il circule parfois des infos qui sont plus ou moins bonne par rapport à la rébellion et que la région n'est pas sûre. Il n'en est rien. Il y a une présence militaire, c'est certain, mais sur place tout le monde est d'accord pour dire que les quelques escarmouches qui ont lieu relèvent plus du banditisme qu'autre chose. Ayant fait ce trajet fin 2012 et fin 2014, la différence est simplement que les touristes étaient bien moins nombreux, sans doute effet conjugué d'ébola et des conséquences désastreuses de l'actions des islamistes radicaux et donc certainement une réticence à vouloir aller en tant que touriste dans ces pays à majorité musulmans de l'Afrique de l'ouest, je pense. En tous cas pour Sénégal/Mali et Mauritanie. (Exemple : le nombre de visa en 2007 en Mauritanie était d'environ 20 000, en 2014 : 400). Pour le Maroc par exemple aussi, l'affaire du français assassiné en Algérie en oct 2014 a eu pour conséquence de faire baisser de 2 millions le nombre de touristes en 2014. A cela on peux ajouter les problèmes de visa obligatoire pour le Sénégal maintenant (en 2012 y'en avait pas) et le visa pour la Mauritanie qui est passé de 50 à 120 € Au final ça représente un somme et puis au final les tracasseries administratives liées au véhicule qui n'ont pas l'air simples.
Concernant le fait d'éviter de conduire la nuit, de toutes manière au Sénégal, Gambie ou Mali, vaut mieux éviter de le faire par bon sens. Premièrement parce la population marche le long des routes la nuit, c'est fréquent, deuxièmement, le risque de heurt avec des bestiaux en tous genres. Cordialement.
Si elles sont de l'ordre de la sécurité qui règne là-bas, je peux juste te dire que j'ai fait ce trajet à vélo et que ce soit au nord du Sénégal, au sud, en Casamance et même à l'est où j'ai continué sur le Mali de l'ouest, je n'ai pas eu l'ombre d'un soucis, je me suis toujours trouvé en sécurité là-bas. Je rajouterai aussi dans la liste des pays où on peut circuler sans problème vu la présence militaire et policière mis en place, le Maroc et la Mauritanie.
Je sais que pour la Casamance en outre, il circule parfois des infos qui sont plus ou moins bonne par rapport à la rébellion et que la région n'est pas sûre. Il n'en est rien. Il y a une présence militaire, c'est certain, mais sur place tout le monde est d'accord pour dire que les quelques escarmouches qui ont lieu relèvent plus du banditisme qu'autre chose. Ayant fait ce trajet fin 2012 et fin 2014, la différence est simplement que les touristes étaient bien moins nombreux, sans doute effet conjugué d'ébola et des conséquences désastreuses de l'actions des islamistes radicaux et donc certainement une réticence à vouloir aller en tant que touriste dans ces pays à majorité musulmans de l'Afrique de l'ouest, je pense. En tous cas pour Sénégal/Mali et Mauritanie. (Exemple : le nombre de visa en 2007 en Mauritanie était d'environ 20 000, en 2014 : 400). Pour le Maroc par exemple aussi, l'affaire du français assassiné en Algérie en oct 2014 a eu pour conséquence de faire baisser de 2 millions le nombre de touristes en 2014. A cela on peux ajouter les problèmes de visa obligatoire pour le Sénégal maintenant (en 2012 y'en avait pas) et le visa pour la Mauritanie qui est passé de 50 à 120 € Au final ça représente un somme et puis au final les tracasseries administratives liées au véhicule qui n'ont pas l'air simples.
Concernant le fait d'éviter de conduire la nuit, de toutes manière au Sénégal, Gambie ou Mali, vaut mieux éviter de le faire par bon sens. Premièrement parce la population marche le long des routes la nuit, c'est fréquent, deuxièmement, le risque de heurt avec des bestiaux en tous genres. Cordialement.
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We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie






