Local transport Marrakech - Ait Bou Oulli
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Original post
JF
Hi there, I’m planning to cross the Atlas M’Goun-Toubkal range at the end of March and I’m looking for info on how to get to Ait Bou Oulli from Marrakech via Demnate. Can anyone tell me if there’s a direct bus to Demnate and then a minibus (once it’s full) to Ait Bou Oulli? Is it doable in a day by bus or even a shared taxi?

Thanks in advance
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Hi,

I rarely take buses, but I can assure you it's possible and there's a pretty large bus station for the area right in the center... Just across from one of the few hotels in town, the Atlas Hotel (a rather expensive and average hotel, but it does the job if you need a quick fix). But with a grand taxi, you'll get there much faster, and I recommend that option... Also, check with the buses heading to Azilal—Demnate is on the way, and I think they stop at the bus station. So you might not find a direct connection to Demnate, but you will for Azilal... The grand taxis and minibuses to Tabant also leave from the same bus station, and they'll drop you off wherever you ask. Same thing—if you're not counting every penny, take a grand taxi. You'll save a lot of time. The 207, 307, 308, etc., make tons of stops, and it's more hassle loading and unloading than in a grand taxi...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Thanks, that's cool! I read your posts from time to time... so full of relevant info!

I know about the grands taxis, and yes, they're a great option +++ since they're not far from the bus station. My question is: what time should I show up at the grands taxis stand? 1) to get a spot and 2) to get a good spot?

I went in early May 2024 to do the M'Goun trek to Keelat M'Gouna and took a bus to Azilal, then a minibus to reach the Ait Bouguemez valley... The bus made a stop at the intersection with the Demnate road but didn’t go there.
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Grand taxis don’t really run on a schedule... They leave when they’re full. I’m not worried about leaving from Marrakech. If you show up in the morning, you’re sure to find one... Having a front seat is always better, but there’s no crystal ball to guarantee it... Do it in two stages—you’ll have a harder time finding a grand taxi to go exactly where you want.

While I rarely take public transport in Morocco since I always have my own vehicle, I’ve done it often in North Africa, and it’s pretty much the same system, just simpler since 5-seat cars are turned into 10-seaters, so better odds ^^... What I do when I can is come to the bus station the day before to organize things. March is a good time—it’s Ramadan, so you won’t be bothered by tea and skewer stops every 10 km. Still, come in the morning early enough before the afternoon siesta... Just avoid being on the road in the evening during iftar, unless you’re not in a hurry.

There are a few experts on the Morocco section who only travel the country by public transport—they might have more precise tips...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Any thoughts on snow conditions at the end of March in the area? I’m planning to start on March 27th and I’ve heard there’s quite a bit of snow this year! I’ve got a few bivouacs at altitude, like the first day before Tizi n' Rouguelt, Taoudja pasture, Lake Tamda, etc.—around 2,500 m. Doable at the end of March/beginning of April?
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Well... Yeah, there's been a bit more snow this year. I've got photos from quite a few spots in the High Atlas almost daily... This morning, around Taghia, a little snow starting from 2,200m... On the east side, near Agoudal, the last hostel going up the Tizi Ouano pass... Nothing, and it crosses the pass just fine... Shows that the snow holds more on the Atlantic side already... No photos every day due to network issues, but I’ve also got a few contacts in the M'goun valley, though responses aren’t always quick, haha...

Send a WhatsApp voice message to the Tarkeddit refuge, +212677349362, or to the Rougoult gîte, +212637378811... They’re the closest and can give you real-time info. I won’t predict the weather—it doesn’t mean anything anymore. You can cross Ait Hamed in the middle of January-February without snow, just like I’ve been stuck there in early May...

No more seasons, as they say...😇

Tamda—you’re probably talking about the lake between (roughly) Telouet and Toufghine? Because "Tamda" isn’t a name, it’s just a translation. Basically, it means "lake lake" ^^... In Darija, a lot of people also say they’re looking for "Lac d’Aguelmame"—it’s not a proper name, it just means "lake." When hiking, knowing some topographic vocabulary in Tashelhit is really cool and useful... If you don’t know it, I can give you about ten useful words if you run into an "amksa"... (The first French topographers really didn’t bother.)

If you’re taking the Rougoult route, I assume you’re heading to Amzeri... Rougoult, hmm... Over 2,800m, all the same... Don’t prepay the champagne for the other side just yet... From Rougoult, you can also skip Amzeri and head straight to Imi n’Ikkis-Ichbakken. That seems ambitious in 2 or 3 weeks... Well... The range is vague—I’m not sticking my neck out. It’ll be somewhere between a yak-hair compression suit and a tank top... 😎

If you descend toward Amzeri, you’ll more or less pass Tassaout on your trail, where there’s a mountain gîte run by Youssef, who’s really nice... He’s also a guide, so he knows the area well. His WhatsApp: +212678871831...

Are you following the Tessaout? Passing through Megdaz? There’s a gîte in the village for 150 € half-board... Mohamed is pretty responsive at +212697277953... (The gîte’s access isn’t great for people with mobility issues yet.) By late March, if you’ve already made it through, following the Tessaout is nice...

Your starting point isn’t far from a small, almost-no-longer-typical fortified village... Boukal... Very photogenic from the road. You can sleep there too, but it’s far from the standard of the Adrar or Tissent gîtes...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Great for Contacts! I’ll reach out to them to find out the conditions. Yes, I plan to follow the Tessaout then branch off toward Megdaz and Lake Tamda on the way to Telouet.... I’d love some basics to interact with the locals—useful and I think appreciated.
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Today's update... Quite a bit of snow fell last night on the Tizi n'Ouano and the M'Goun area—about 20-30 cm...

It can melt quickly...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Thanks for the feedback and all the best... I admit it would be wise to have a Plan B like the Djebel Saghro area. Sure, there are 3 weeks before my trek, but we’ll play it safe 😉 Do you live in Morocco?
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Just my heart... No, I have my house by the sea, just steps from the beach, not far from Mont Saint-Michel, and facing the Chausey Islands... Could be worse as a life... I need the ocean, and it's not in Morocco that I'll find that kind of happiness ^^

But I'm there very often, and since 1998, between 1 and 3 months a year... I'll spend more time there in 10 years (I'm not yet 50), but I also love Asia and the Indian subcontinent too much... I only have 6 months of vacation per year, I can't do it all ^^...

But I have a ton of contacts, and since the internet and WhatsApp are around, it's so easy to communicate in Morocco—especially since the networks aren't like in France. Here, we don't have the same standards, lol... So, I have 200 or 300 WhatsApp chats going, and the guys love sending me instant photos when the weather acts up... Or, if I need info, it doesn't take long...

The Saghro at this time of year... I'd pick that over the High Atlas any day...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Hi Olivier, Tassaout Guesthouse... Does Youssef have a WhatsApp? Is +212678871831 the right number? It’s not recognized on the app. Where exactly is the guesthouse... which village? Before or after Amezri when coming down from the pass?
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Ugh, in Morocco, a new SIM card is 20 MAD ^^ Prices can change quickly... No, before that, at the first village on the way down, you need to take a trail on the left... The trail is better and more direct to the next village... By road, though, you have to go through Amzeri..

I’ll ask someone I know in Amzeri if they have their phone... Youssef isn’t from the mobile generation either... Not sure he even has WhatsApp...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JF Jfractal Regular ·
Ok, thanks...
Un hasard vaut mieux que mille rendez-vous
MA Marrakechoui ·
thanks
MA Marrakechoui ·
ahahahaha

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