Trek Alpamayo ou Huayhuash au Pérou?
by Sandra1234
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour à tous,
Cet été nous partons 3 grosses semaines au Perou. Nous envisageons de faire un long trek en autonomie (Max 8jours d’autonomie avant de racheter des vivres). Il y aura au moins 4 jours d’acclim tranquille avant.
Il y a 2 trek qui nous tentent: le tour de l’alpamayo ou le tour du huyahuash.
Seulement, on voit tout et son contraire sur internet en ce qui concerne la fréquentation des sites de camping et la beauté de ces trek. Surtout je vois de mauvais retour sur le tour du huyahuash: plein de touristes, pas super safe, business business av eux des bains chauds avec barbelés ou prdes presque. Alors c’est dur de choisir!
Qui connaît vraiment ces 2 massifs et peut nous conseiller sur:
- la fréquentation touristique ? Beaucoup de gens aux camps?
- possibilité de trouver des camps alternatifs avec moins de monde?
- la beauté des paysages? La diversité?
- lequel est le plus sauvage?
- lequel offre le plus d’alternatives possibles avec des détours si besoin?
Je précise qu’on ne fait pas d’alpinisme, qu’ On a déjà fait l’ausangate en autonomie sans problème.
Ce qu’on recherche c’est les montagnes de rêves au plus près des glaciers, avec le moins de monde possible (même si n part en pleine saison), un itinéraire sauvage.
Un grand merci d’avance
Sandra
Bonjour Sandra
Mes expériences du tour de l'alpamayo et du tour de la cordillera huayhuash commencent à dater un peu et n'étaient pas forcément au pic de la saison touristique (aout 2006 pour alpamayo; juin 2010 pour huayhuash). Ces expériences sont donc désormais un peu obsolètes.
Néanmoins je suis surpris des commentaires négatifs que tu as pu collecter, surtout sur le coté "pleins de touristes".
En ce qui concerne la fréquentation, j'ai croisé du monde sur huayhuash mais c'était loin d'être l'usine. Sur le "tour de l'alpamayo", un peu de monde sur la partie "santa cruz" (pas l'usine non plus), puis pour ainsi quasi plus personne sur la partie retour qui correspond à ce qu'on appelait parfois "trek de los cedros".
Si je continue sur les autres critères, je ne vais pas beaucoup vous aider à distinguer les deux 🙂. Dans les deux cas, il y'a quelques itinéraires alternatifs ou des détours parfois incontournables (col san antonio sur huayhuash). Pour les camps ça dépends des endroits, il y'a des zones privilégiées mais toujours la possibilité de mettre sa tente un peu plus loin s'il y'a du monde.
Mes expériences du tour de l'alpamayo et du tour de la cordillera huayhuash commencent à dater un peu et n'étaient pas forcément au pic de la saison touristique (aout 2006 pour alpamayo; juin 2010 pour huayhuash). Ces expériences sont donc désormais un peu obsolètes.
Néanmoins je suis surpris des commentaires négatifs que tu as pu collecter, surtout sur le coté "pleins de touristes".
En ce qui concerne la fréquentation, j'ai croisé du monde sur huayhuash mais c'était loin d'être l'usine. Sur le "tour de l'alpamayo", un peu de monde sur la partie "santa cruz" (pas l'usine non plus), puis pour ainsi quasi plus personne sur la partie retour qui correspond à ce qu'on appelait parfois "trek de los cedros".
Si je continue sur les autres critères, je ne vais pas beaucoup vous aider à distinguer les deux 🙂. Dans les deux cas, il y'a quelques itinéraires alternatifs ou des détours parfois incontournables (col san antonio sur huayhuash). Pour les camps ça dépends des endroits, il y'a des zones privilégiées mais toujours la possibilité de mettre sa tente un peu plus loin s'il y'a du monde.
Sur Alpamayo Nord, il y a tres peu de touristes (en fait, je n'en ai vu aucun).
Il y a de nombreux autres treks non touristiques possibles dans la Cordillera Blanca.
Bonjour,
Beaucoup moins de monde sur l'Alpamayo, sauf la partie Santa Cruz très fréquenté. Huayhuash par la route classique : beaucoup de monde, chemins défoncés par les mules, pas toujours très près des montagnes... mais le mieux, même si c'est un poil technique : la haute route de Huayhuash : personne, vue magnifiques au plus proche des montagnes, quasi aucune taxe locale... un de mes plus beaux trek. J'ai mis un topo sur mon blog : http://trek.uniterre.com/perou/
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Merci pour votre message.
Super idée, on s'y croisera peut-être alors ;) J'y serai fin juillet à priori !
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Julien, si tu retournes à Huaraz, il y a d'autres treks. Toi qui aimes les hauts cols, tu peux passer d'une vallée à l'autre au dessus de Huaraz, Aikillpo à Ishinca à Cojup à Quilcayhuanca et plus au Sud Rajucolpa à Rurec.
Merci pour l'idée. J'ai commandé la carte du Sud de la Cordillère Blanche. Je vais repérer tout ça dès que la recevrais.
Je vais d'abord 3 semaines en Equateur, puis ensuite je pense rester 3 autres semaines du côté de Huaraz.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
J'ai aussi découvert un court trek extraordinaire, enfin j'ai reçu un tuyau a Huaraz, 2 jours Laguna 513 puis un col pas trop difficile a la Laguna Ausquiscocha, au dessus de Carhuaz, sur la carte Nord.
Merci ! J'ai trouvé ça sur ma carte. Je vais aller poser ma tente là-bas alors :)
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
A Carhuaz je recommande l'Hospedaje Los Capulies, j'y ai laissé des affaires pendant la rando. J'ai pris un transport Carhuaz Hualcan et au retour Shilla Carhuaz.
Julien, si tu retournes à Huaraz, il y a d'autres treks. Toi qui aimes les hauts cols, tu peux passer d'une vallée à l'autre au dessus de Huaraz, Aikillpo à Ishinca à Cojup à Quilcayhuanca et plus au Sud Rajucolpa à Rurec.
J'ai reçu la carte et j'ai regardé. J'envisage un trek d'une vallée à l'autre. De nombreux hauts cols effectivement, mais difficile de savoir le niveau technique de chacun d'eux.
1) D'Ishinca, ça semble difficile de passer dans la vallée de Cojup. Impossible ? Avec la matériel de glacier peut-être ? (on l'aura de toute façon pour faire le Uurs et le Nevada Ishinca).
2) De Cojup à Quilcayhuanca, tu sais où est le col qui passe ?
3) Plus au Sud, de Shallap à Rajucolpa, j'ai trouvé sur le site de quelques agences le Huamashpunta pass. Tu as des infos dessus ?
4) De Rajucolpa à Rurec, c'est le col entre les glaciers qui passe ? Celui qui descend sur la Laguna Tararhua ?
J'ai reçu la carte et j'ai regardé. J'envisage un trek d'une vallée à l'autre. De nombreux hauts cols effectivement, mais difficile de savoir le niveau technique de chacun d'eux.
1) D'Ishinca, ça semble difficile de passer dans la vallée de Cojup. Impossible ? Avec la matériel de glacier peut-être ? (on l'aura de toute façon pour faire le Uurs et le Nevada Ishinca).
2) De Cojup à Quilcayhuanca, tu sais où est le col qui passe ?
3) Plus au Sud, de Shallap à Rajucolpa, j'ai trouvé sur le site de quelques agences le Huamashpunta pass. Tu as des infos dessus ?
4) De Rajucolpa à Rurec, c'est le col entre les glaciers qui passe ? Celui qui descend sur la Laguna Tararhua ?
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Point 1 : réglé en regardant plus attentivement camptocamp. Le Nevado Ishinca peut se faire par le versant Nord ou Sud, les deux voies sont cotées F, donc à notre portée.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Sur le web, j'ai lu un blog qui comprenait Ishinca Cojup et que tu peux sans doute rechercher. Aussi un blog avec Rurec Rajupolca.
Je n'ai traverse que Quilcayhuanca vers Cojup, en venant de Cojup c'est une montée très raide mais sans difficulté.
Je suis allé au lac Ishinca, à mon avis ce n'est pas la bonne route pour le col, glacier très crevasse.
A Rajupolca je suis monte jusqu au glacier à 4700 mètres sur une trace un peu pénible. Tu vas devoir 'explorer' pour continuer jusqu'au col.
Encore un très beau court trek, assez facile, au dessus de Chavin: Huantsanpampa (marque Q.Alhuina sur ma carte) - Tuctopampa et les lacs au dessus. Sur ces 2 derniers treks (Q.513) j'ai rencontre 0 touriste.
Intéressant toutes ces alternatives aux treks classiques. Je vais aller emprunter le livre de Vincent Gues pour voir si je peux trouver plus d'infos.
Pour passer de Q.Alhuina à Tuctopampa c'est le col à l'Ouest du C.Altaco ?
Je suis en train d'imaginer une jolie "haute route" dans le coin... y a la possibilité de faire un long enchaînement.
Pour passer de Q.Alhuina à Tuctopampa c'est le col à l'Ouest du C.Altaco ?
Je suis en train d'imaginer une jolie "haute route" dans le coin... y a la possibilité de faire un long enchaînement.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Le livre de V.Geus n'a quasiment rien sur le Nord.
Le col oui c'est ca, juste sous Huantsan. Dans la descente, après avoir passe la tour rocheuse, je suis monte raide sur la gauche vers le plateau, hors sentier, pour les vues puis une route directe au lac Tumarina. J'avais pris un taxi de Chavin pour le début jusque Chichucancha. J'ai trouve le topo de de trek dans le guide Trailblazers.
Je suis actuellement pour la deuxième fois à Huaraz et je ne peux que recommander les suggestions de Pierre.
2 jours : Lagune 513 - Laguna Auquishcocha. Magnifique de passer ce col. Ça rajoute beaucoup d'intérêt à un simple aller-retour à la laguna 513.
Enchaîner les vallées plus au Sud par les hauts cols et également hautement recommandable.
- Akilpo-Ishinca: sublime et on a croisé personne jusqu'à rejoindre la zone du refuge (logiquement très fréquenté). - Ishinca en traversée vers Cojup. Attention, matériel de glacier requis (crampons, piolet, corde, baudrier, matériel de moufflage et savoir s'en servir). - Cojup-Quilcayhuanca : très bien également. Enchaîner les trois, permet 5 jours de superbes haute route avec troid sommets sur glacier à >5000m en bonus. Bon ça fait des sacs très lourds.
Sans matériel d'alpi, Akilpo-Ishinca ou Cojup-Quilcayhuanca permettent les deux de faire 3 jours sur des cols très peu fréquentes et exceptionnels.
Et dire que tout le monde se presse sur l'autoroute du Santa Cruz ou sur le traditionnel tour de Huayhuash...
Pour ma part, je vais continuer ces hauts cols plus au Sud. Également la proposition autour de Chavin.
2 jours : Lagune 513 - Laguna Auquishcocha. Magnifique de passer ce col. Ça rajoute beaucoup d'intérêt à un simple aller-retour à la laguna 513.
Enchaîner les vallées plus au Sud par les hauts cols et également hautement recommandable.
- Akilpo-Ishinca: sublime et on a croisé personne jusqu'à rejoindre la zone du refuge (logiquement très fréquenté). - Ishinca en traversée vers Cojup. Attention, matériel de glacier requis (crampons, piolet, corde, baudrier, matériel de moufflage et savoir s'en servir). - Cojup-Quilcayhuanca : très bien également. Enchaîner les trois, permet 5 jours de superbes haute route avec troid sommets sur glacier à >5000m en bonus. Bon ça fait des sacs très lourds.
Sans matériel d'alpi, Akilpo-Ishinca ou Cojup-Quilcayhuanca permettent les deux de faire 3 jours sur des cols très peu fréquentes et exceptionnels.
Et dire que tout le monde se presse sur l'autoroute du Santa Cruz ou sur le traditionnel tour de Huayhuash...
Pour ma part, je vais continuer ces hauts cols plus au Sud. Également la proposition autour de Chavin.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Et du côté Est de la cordillère on peut aussi enchaîner de courts treks pour en faire un long, avec de courts transferts en collectivo/combi:
Quebrada Raria (départ avec un tour au glacier Pastoruri) puis la boucle au dessus de Chavin, ensuite Huari - Chacas, puis Quebrada Ulta a Yanama, et on peut terminer par Santa Cruz ou par Laguna 69 Refugio Peru.
J'ouvrirai une discussion séparée quand j'aurais fait les topos à mon retour. Mais encore une info d'ici là :
San Marcos - Tuctopampa - Alhuina - Yanashallash - col pour la vallée de Tararhua. Pas de problème particulier. Très sauvage, croisé aucun autre randonneur, souvent sans chemin, quelques passages marécageux.
Par contre, le col entre Tararhua et Rajucolta, très difficile. Ce n'est plus de la simple randonnée. Couloir de 120m raide, terrain sans appui, quelques pas de grimpe (avec de bonnes prises) à la fin pour quitter le couloir qui revenait impraticable : plus raide, impossible d'avoir de bonnes prises sur cet argile mou et ces gravillons, quelques centimètres de neige pour compliquer encore la tâche. Aucun chemin depuis la laguna. L'autre versant est un pierrier raide. Pas trop compliqué. Pas de chemin entre 4750 et le col à 5155m, mais ça passe à vue sans soucis.
Ça m'a refroidit pour continuer vers Shallap seul (et avec une cheville pas remise à 100%), je me suis arrêté là.
Donc contrairement à Akilpo/Ishinca ou Cojup/Quilcayhuanca, qui sont des chemins raides et peu marqués mais sans grande difficulté, là c'est un autre niveau.
San Marcos - Tuctopampa - Alhuina - Yanashallash - col pour la vallée de Tararhua. Pas de problème particulier. Très sauvage, croisé aucun autre randonneur, souvent sans chemin, quelques passages marécageux.
Par contre, le col entre Tararhua et Rajucolta, très difficile. Ce n'est plus de la simple randonnée. Couloir de 120m raide, terrain sans appui, quelques pas de grimpe (avec de bonnes prises) à la fin pour quitter le couloir qui revenait impraticable : plus raide, impossible d'avoir de bonnes prises sur cet argile mou et ces gravillons, quelques centimètres de neige pour compliquer encore la tâche. Aucun chemin depuis la laguna. L'autre versant est un pierrier raide. Pas trop compliqué. Pas de chemin entre 4750 et le col à 5155m, mais ça passe à vue sans soucis.
Ça m'a refroidit pour continuer vers Shallap seul (et avec une cheville pas remise à 100%), je me suis arrêté là.
Donc contrairement à Akilpo/Ishinca ou Cojup/Quilcayhuanca, qui sont des chemins raides et peu marqués mais sans grande difficulté, là c'est un autre niveau.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
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Thanks in advance for your replies.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
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Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
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hi there
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Thanks, community! 🙂
Also, I see there are lots of train options if you book well in advance—does that only apply to the "fast" trains? Are there buses as well?
Thanks, community! 🙂
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With the agency: An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk. Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening. We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old. What do you think of this itinerary?
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Thanks
Cat, Bruno.
Thanks
Cat, Bruno.
Hi everyone!
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028. I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄). This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
Hello,
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots? Thanks in advance for your tips. We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries! Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
Spots where we could pitch the tent near a stream
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
Hi there,
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
I can find longer treks, but nothing for a short outing!
So, if you’ve got any ideas...
Thanks! :)
Hi everyone,
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.