Trek au Ladakh: Kanji - Kumjung Seraï ou Darsha?
by Kerguelen
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Après beaucoup d'hésitation, je m'oriente vers un trek au départ de Kanjï vers le Zanskar. Je reviens donc sur le forum avec beaucoup de questions et à la recherche d'information sur le parcours ci dessous que je voudrais faire en solo en démarrant le 20 août de Kanjï.
J'aimerais beaucoup partir de Kanjï afin d'éviter au maximum la route vers Photoksar, mais trouve-t’on facilement un taxi à Lamayuru ou Heniskut pour aller jusqu'à Kanjï et à quel prix ?
Ensuite entre Photoksar et Zangla je voudrais passer par Yulchung, Nieraq, Labar-la, Namtse-la. Quelqu'un connait il ce parcours, cela passe bien, pas trop pommatoire ?
Puis de Zangla je voudrais passer par Zangla Sumdo, Niri, Shade, Phuktal, Purne, Tanze. Quelqu'un connait ? Y a-t-il des rivières difficiles à passer.
Pour la fin du parcours, quel est le plus beau, passer par le Shinkun-la et Ramjak et arrivée à Darsha ou le Phirtse-la pour finir à Kumjung Seraï ?
Est-il facile de trouver une place dans un bus pour Leh à Darsha ?
Si fin à Kumjung Seraï est il facile d'arrêter un bus ou un camion pour Leh?
Si je veux prendre un ou deux jours de repos, quel sont les meilleurs endroits pour cela (jolie village, ballade sympa à faire ...). Ou je peux espérer trouver du ravitaillement sur le parcours à part Zangla. Je pense alterner bivouac et logement chez l'habitant. Dans quels villages je peux espérer trouver "le gîte et le couvert".
Merci d'avance pour les infos.
Gilles
Kola a des intuitions qui laisseraient Mme Soleil sans voix !
Je prévois de passer par là l'été prochain, mais il ne faudra pas m'attendre car je serais passé 3 jours avant.
Je pars le 14 août de Shergol, et je passe à Kanji le 17.
Pour tes questions :
Il n'y a rien depuis Leh pour Kanji, seulement le bus quotidien Leh-Kargil passe à Henasku (les habitants tiennent à ce qu'on l'appelle "Henasku" et pas "Heniskot" comme l'écrivent les Indiens sur les panneaux), et un bus pour Phokar, ou Fokar, je ne sais plus quel jour.
S'il est tard, il y a un tourist bungalow sommaire et peu fréquenté au bord de la route à Henasku. Le gardien vient vers 18h voir s'il y a des clients. De là, il faut 2 bonnes heures pour rejoindre Kanji par de très belles gorges. Il y a des guesthouses à Kanji.
Sinon le taxi depuis Leh coûte 4054, 4238 ou 4422 Rs selon sa classe. Voir http://www.spiceflair.com/wp-content/uploads/ubpfattach/leh-taxi-rate-list-2012-13-13.jpg
On rejoint ensuite Photaksar, et la route, en 3 jours. Hébergement chez l'habitant.
Ensuite, en étant seul, on est hébergé, et nourri, partout à Yulchung, Nyerak, Zangla, Shade, Tantak, Phuktal, KhangSar, Purne, etc.
Les traversées de rivières les plus "délicates" sont entre Zangla et Shade. J'ai lu un récit qui donnait 100 traversées avec parfois beaucoup d'eau. Même s'il n'y en a pas 100, il doit y en avoir beaucoup. Je le découvrirai aussi. Après Shade, il n'y en a plus jusqu'à Darcha, là je connais. Il y a maintenant une route de Ramjak à Darcha.
Il y a de beaux paysages dans le Shingo La (ou Shinkun La), et deux ravitaillement en cours de route, et un au camp de base de chaque côté du col.
Le Phirtse La est plus sauvage, moins fréquenté, et la piste semble plus facile à suivre de ce côté. Là, j'imagine d'après la carte.
Depuis Ramjak, on arrive à Darcha en début d'après midi. Le bus Manali-Leh est déjà passé. Il y a un bus vers 15h (sauf dimanche) qui va de Rarik à Keylong. Là, il faut chercher la solution : soit un shared taxi pour Leh le lendemain matin, soit réserver une place dans un bus (si le bureau est encore ouvert). Éviter les camions, il leur faut 3 jours pour arriver à Leh. Il faut les prendre pour un dépannage sur un petit trajet, mais pas pour des longs trips. Leur vitesse moyenne est de 15 km/h.
Voilà pour un premier aperçu.
J'ai oublié les jours de repos : Zangla où il y a beaucoup de choses à voir, Phuktal, et même là où rien n'est prévu, il peut y avoir une mariage ou les yaks qui foulent la récolte d'orge.
J'ai oublié les jours de repos : Zangla où il y a beaucoup de choses à voir, Phuktal, et même là où rien n'est prévu, il peut y avoir une mariage ou les yaks qui foulent la récolte d'orge.
Merci Djullé84, j'espérais bien que tu passe par là.
Pour mon acclimatation plutôt que de rester à Leh je voulais venir passer une nuit à Lamayuru et ainsi visiter le monastère puis le lendemain aller au départ de mon trek à Kanjï. Il n'y a pas moyen de trouver un taxi à Lamayuru ou choper un camion pour Henasku (y a t il beaucoup de circulation sur cette route). Sais-tu vers quelle heure le bus Leh-Karguil passe à Lamayuru (si pas de camion je pourrais le prendre le lendemain pour me faire déposer à l'embranchement pour Kanjï.
Quand tu dis deux bonnes heures pour monter à Kanjï, c'est à pied ?
Merci encore pour toute tes info.
Gilles
Oui, il y beaucoup de trafic sur cette route.
Le bus Leh-Kargil part à 4h30 de Leh et passe à Lamayuru entre 11h et 14h. La route est devenu très bonne, et les durées de trajet raccourcissent à vue d'oeil. Lamayuru est à la même altitude que Leh : 3500m.
Je préfère prendre le bus de Chiktan (mardi, vendredi, dimanche) qui part de Leh à 8h, passer l'après midi à Lamayuru, et reprendre le bus de Kargil le lendemain jusqu'au croisement de Kanji. Attention, c'est à toi d'arrêter le bus au bon moment, sinon tu iras jusqu'à Kargil !
Le camion, c'est en dernier ressort. Ils vont très lentement, bien que dans ce sens, ils repartent à vide et vont plus vite, mais ils s'arrêtent souvent. Tu risques de passer 2h à Wakha, près de Mulbek, où les chauffeurs de retrouvent pour manger et discuter. C'est parfois gratuit, mais rarement, et si tu ne discutes pas le prix avant de monter, tu peux te faire racketter de plusieurs centaines de roupies.
Les 2 bonnes pour Kanji, c'est à pied, oui. Depuis la route, il faut descendre dans la gorge, en coupant quelques virages, puis dans la gorge, c'est tout plat, ou presque.
Merci Jean-Louis pour les infos.
Mais j'ai encore besoin de tes lumières.
Combien faut-il compter pour un hébergement + nourriture chez l'habitant. A quoi je dois m'attendre comme nourriture ?
J'ai lu qu'il fallait souvent payer pour poser la tente, même en dehors des "zones aménagé", combien ?, il vous donne un petit ticket (pour éviter que tout les mecs qui passe par là réclame d'être payé).
Pour les prises électriques en Inde, faut-il un adaptateur ?
Merci
Gilles
L'hébergement, c'est devenu le bazar depuis que des petits malins ont inventés les homestays pour remplacer les guesthouses. Cette année (2012), la(e) homestay coûte 400 Rs pour une journée en pension complète (nuit + 3 repas), ce que certains ont allègrement transformé en 400 Rs pour la nuit. On trouve ça dans les endroits fréquentés (Sham, Markha, traversée du Zanskar (donc à Zangla), ...).
Sinon, il faut chercher ailleurs, quand c'est possible, et on a 150 Rs pour la nuit et 50 Rs par repas. (en 2011)
Le menu : rice & dal, ou rice & veg. Je le refuse systématiquement. C'est devenu le grand snobisme du Ladakh : montrer que l'on a de l'argent pour acheter du riz (du mauvais riz blanc qui a poussé à grand renfort d'engrais et de produits chimiques dans les plaines indiennes, et assaisonné de sauce pimenté pour faire plus indien). Je réclame toujours les plats traditionnels du Ladakh : tukpa ou tantuk (soupes à base de farine d'orge), skyu ou chutaki (plats de pâtes à base farine d'orge, le chutaki est plus long à préparer, comme les momos réservés aux jours de fête ou aux restaurants).
La taxe de séjour, c'est ainsi que j'appelle la taxe pour dormir n'importe où même à la belle étoile, vient de passer à 120 Rs, alors qu'elle était à 100 Rs depuis plusieurs années. On a droit à un petit ticket. Et s'il n'y a personne une nuit, on paie pour les deux nuits le lendemain, on voit ça dans la traversée du Kharnak par exemple. Par contre, ce que tu as appelé (à juste titre entre guillemets) "zone aménagée", n'est pas du tout aménagé. La seule qualité du lieu est d'être à peu près plat.
Et pour les prises électriques, il n'y a pas besoin d'adaptateur. Certaines vieilles prises ont un diamètre plus large, et il suffit d'une allumette pour caler la fiche mâle, mais c'est devenu très rare.
j.l.
La taxe de séjour, c'est ainsi que j'appelle la taxe pour dormir n'importe où même à la belle étoile, vient de passer à 120 Rs, alors qu'elle était à 100 Rs depuis plusieurs années. On a droit à un petit ticket. Et s'il n'y a personne une nuit, on paie pour les deux nuits le lendemain, on voit ça dans la traversée du Kharnak par exemple. Par contre, ce que tu as appelé (à juste titre entre guillemets) "zone aménagée", n'est pas du tout aménagé. La seule qualité du lieu est d'être à peu près plat.
Et pour les prises électriques, il n'y a pas besoin d'adaptateur. Certaines vieilles prises ont un diamètre plus large, et il suffit d'une allumette pour caler la fiche mâle, mais c'est devenu très rare.
j.l.
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I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
hi
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra



