Hi everyone,
I’m planning a third trip to Madagascar in 2026. This time, heading north and then part of the west coast before going back up.
The question I’m asking myself—same as during our first visits—is Nosy Be or not?
Of course, the photos show stunning beaches, and when you mention Madagascar, almost everyone says Nosy Be or at least has heard of it. That’s actually why we didn’t include it in our itineraries before, especially since we’d already seen paradise-like beaches in the south, and we had them all to ourselves because they were hard to reach.
On the other hand, I’ve always been drawn to Île Sainte-Marie, but from the north, you have to go back down to Tana, which I’m okay with in principle.
So, what’s your take? Nosy Be and its surroundings—what do you think? Just tourists looking to party?
Thanks
hi there
I lived in Madagascar in the 60s, and since 1991 I’ve been coming back regularly. I’ve traveled quite a bit off the beaten path—bush taxis, covered trucks, boats, 4L cars, and 4x4s. I went to Nosy Be twice, in 1967 and 1991, and I don’t want to go back. It’s become a Malagasy Phuket or Punta Cana—it’s disheartening how many guys from ANTANANARIVO go there just for the underage girls.
So for me, Nosy Be isn’t—or isn’t anymore—real Madagascar.
Île Sainte-Marie, on the other hand, has definitely changed (only 3 cars and one minibus in 1992!), but it still feels pretty authentic, even if I don’t approve of all those pseudo-eco-tourists who are *desperate* to see humpback whales (mostly for the pleasure of Italian tour operators). Still, I’m heading there for a week in October.
But Nosy Be? That’s just "vita kabary" (all talk).
jipi
Good evening,
I’d say the choice really depends on how much time you have, your arrival and departure airports, etc.
For a trip under 3 weeks, I don’t think Sainte Marie is the best option. The North is vast—there’s so much to do and see—and unless you have plenty of time, it’s better to stay there for the whole trip.
A detour to Sainte Marie would mean either a grueling, pothole-ridden road trip or a flight (doable but pricey for domestic flights).
Here’s what I think:
1/ Nosy Be is fantastic for diving, especially if you’re there during whale shark season. The islands are stunning, and Nosy Be itself is really beautiful. Ylang-ylang plantations, lychee trees, cocoa, and vanilla as you head toward Ambanja. The houses in Hell Ville are charming, and there’s a lovely oceanfront neighborhood with views of the mainland. If you combine Nosy Be and Diego, you’ll have enough to keep you busy for weeks without getting bored. Yes, there are older guys with young women, but outside of Ambatoloaka, you won’t really see it. I spent weeks there in a hotel away from the main spots and never encountered it.
One thing, though—the beaches in Nosy Be itself aren’t particularly beautiful. There’s no lagoon because there’s no coral reef, so the best beaches and spots are on the surrounding islands (where you can also stay, like Nosy Komba or Nosy Sakatia).
As for crowds, yes, compared to the rest of Madagascar, it’s busier and more touristy, but let’s put it in perspective: Madagascar gets about 300,000 tourists a year. That’s 300,000 people in a country the size of France and Belgium combined… It gives you an idea of how little tourism there really is. Comparisons aren’t always fair, but I read that the Galeries Lafayette in Paris gets 80,000–100,000 visitors *per day* on 7 hectares. So, no, Madagascar isn’t crowded.
2/ Sainte Marie is amazing too—I’ve been back several times and never gotten tired of it. The beaches are way more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, there are fewer people, and there’s Île aux Nattes, a peaceful, timeless little island (it’s part of Sainte Marie, which is part of Madagascar). Maximum tranquility. The flora is gorgeous too. There’s a lagoon on the east coast with stunning colors depending on the tides, pirate ruins, etc. That said, the diving is pretty disappointing, but the snorkeling is nice.
Both are completely different, both are stunning, and both are great for long stays.
But honestly, I wouldn’t go to Sainte Marie unless you have plenty of time for your trip and choose to fly from the North.
Perfect, Madagascar really needs time if you want to get around. And if you can spare that time, it’s ideal.
By car, you’re looking at a solid 4 days to travel from the North to Sainte-Marie. Flying might actually be more cost-effective in terms of both time and money.
My first time in Madagascar was in 2023. I immediately booked a flight from Tana to Sainte Marie and a week in a hotel on Île aux Nattes.
In the end, I stayed on Île aux Nattes for 2 months. It was fantastic—a life out of time. Île Sainte-Marie is stunning, the beaches on the northeast are still untouched and wild, with beautiful waves. Paradise.
My first time in Madagascar was in 2023. I immediately booked a flight from Tana to Sainte Marie and a week in a hotel on Île aux Nattes.
In the end, I stayed on Île aux Nattes for 2 months. It was fantastic—a life out of time. Île Sainte-Marie is gorgeous, the beaches on the northeast are still untouched and wild, with beautiful waves. Paradise.
Wow, two months instead of one week—that’s no small change! You really fell in love with it, and you were right to do so.
Hi there,
I’d posted this recap of our last trip to Sainte Marie back in December:
Mora Mora in Boraha, 1 week with a touch of Malagasy Polynesia | Travel journal > Madagascar | Voyage Forum
There’s a book by Tronchet, the comic book author, who spent several months on Île aux Nattes—*Robinsons père et fils*—which also gives a literary take on the place.
As for our last trip to Nosy Be two years ago, that’s on another forum since this one was still closed then.
Hello,
I had posted this report from our last stay in Sainte Marie last December.
Mora Mora in Boraha, 1 week with a touch of Malagasy Polynesia | Travel journal > Madagascar | Voyage Forum
There’s a book by Tronchet, the comic book author, who spent several months on Île aux Nattes: "Robinsons père et fils," which also gives a literary perspective.
As for our last trip to Nosy Be two years ago, that’s on another forum—this one was still closed back then.
Thanks, I just read the travel journal. It’s been a while since I last visited Voyageforum, so it’s great that the forum is active again.
Hello,
I read in the replies that Nosy Be is like Phuket! That’s a bit of an exaggeration—there’s a cabaret with girls out front for about 10 meters, and that’s pretty much it...
For the rest, these are two very different islands. Sainte Marie is much quieter. Nosy Be is far more populated, with a constant stream of tuk-tuks and chaotic traffic. The beaches aren’t great—no water at low tide... That said, what you *should* do is visit the surrounding islands, which are way nicer. Nosy Komba (no roads, no cars), same for Sakatia, and Tanikely for diving. A little gem that’s unfortunately getting too crowded is Nosy Iranja—you’d better hurry and go. The interior of Nosy Be is interesting too. Almost untouched, with remote villages, lakes, and waterfalls—no roads, just trails. You’ll need a guide or someone who knows the area.
For the surrounding islands, Tanikely like Nosy Iranja are overcrowded, especially on days when cruise ships bring in day-trippers. With thousands of people suddenly on such small islands, it quickly feels overwhelming.
So it's best to avoid going (when possible) on days when the huge boats are anchored at Hell-Ville, and ideally visit off-season (also when possible).
It's really nice to stay on Sakatia or Nosy Komba for a quieter experience and generally for prettier beaches.
Hi, Nosy Be with these charter flights filled to 75% with guys arriving daily from Poland, Bulgaria, Italy (every day), Ethiopia, and soon Emirates—of course, the South Africans every day too. Don’t tell me it’s not too crowded; it’s mass tourism.
After checking migration stats, over 100 girls (aged 14 to 25) arrive every week in Nosy Be from all over northern Madagascar—Diego, Sambava, Antalaha, Majunga, and even Tana.
With over 20 flights per week starting in May, we’re still getting close to the norm, especially for a small island like Nosy Be.
I’ll leave the island to the die-hard fans...
Good evening,
For my part, I wouldn’t be so definitive—there are ways to explore Nosy Be peacefully. As mentioned earlier for the island’s interior, but also by adjusting your schedule and avoiding the most touristy spots for accommodation.
With a max of 100,000 people on an island like that, we’re still far from mass tourism, and it’s easy to be super relaxed.
In Thailand, it’s 40 million per year. In all of Madagascar, we barely hit 400,000.
I’m not a die-hard fan, but I think it’s a shame to avoid it—there are beautiful things to do and see there.
If you love marine life, it’s probably the richest and most fascinating spot in Madagascar. And if you venture off the beaten path, there are truly incredible places.
good evening
yeah, it’s a choice, but the fact that I first visited this island in 1967 is definitely a factor in why I’m disappointed by the current evolution (check out the news on Nosy Satiaka and other practically privatized islands).
In Madagascar, there aren’t more than 300,000 tourists in total; we agree on that, but you should know that at least half of them go to Nosy Be—so 150,000 tourists for that tiny piece of land????
For Nosy Komba, the last time I was there was in 1999, and it was still amazing—just 3 or 4 small hotels. Now there are over 20 (since Ankify, where I often go in the evenings, you can see the whole island lit up).
I prefer the northeast region, Antalaha to the Masoala Peninsula, and also the stunning coast between Soanierana Ivongo and Mananara, probably the most beautiful in Madagascar, along with—though in a different style—the coast between Tulear, Andavadakoa, and Morombe, home to the island’s most beautiful baobab forest (best explored by the coast, not via RN 9).
And also the Itampolo area—those are still authentic spots, but for how long????
But I do think that half the tourists being focused on Nosy Be suits me just fine 😎😛
We agree on pretty much everything, except I’ve never seen 14-year-old girls there. Maybe it was a different time... I know you have a real issue with Nosy Be, and I agree there are much better places in Madagascar! Fort Dauphin, Andringitra, and so many more... For tourism, it’s true. About half of all tourists go to Nosy Be—why? Because the infrastructure on the main island is almost nonexistent, and traveling 1,000 kilometers on rough roads is quite an adventure. So far, Nosy Be isn’t mass tourism yet, except for a few spots like Andilana where you only hear Italian. But yes, unfortunately, it’s becoming more like that. As Rotsaka mentioned, Iranja is overrated—I’ve even heard talk of limiting visitor numbers. Still, most people arrive at 10 AM and leave by 3 PM, so evenings are quiet. I remember Komba back when there were just three small hotels—it was a different time. Now, you still only have a tiny sandy or rocky path to explore.
Anyway, I think travelers still have plenty of choices for different kinds of trips based on what they’re looking for. Don’t limit yourself—go explore!
Hi there,
Yeah, totally agree with you—that’s exactly why I prefer exploring the island. I did that with my wife in bush taxis, often in the back of covered trucks, back in the 1990s/2000s. After that, I bought an old 4x4 and was able to drive the RN5 several times.
I also did a trip in 1998 from Vaingaindrano to Fort Dauphin—half on foot and half in makeshift vehicles, etc. I’ve been to Andrigitra, the Tsingy, and more—I won’t list it all. The only thing missing from my list is the Makay. The trip I had planned fell through.
But like I say, it was a different time. It’s the same with Asia, where I was based for work in the 75/80s—you can imagine how much things have changed.
I lived in Tahiti and Nouméa with my parents between 1958 and 1962, so I don’t really feel like going back.
I do have Malagasy friends who keep insisting I visit Nosy Be, where their family owns a small hotel, but honestly, I’m not really up for it.
My next trip at the end of this year: Sainte Marie, the loop from Tana to Antsirabe to Ampefy and back to Tana (I’ve never taken the road between Antsirabe and Ampefy). Then I’ll head north, hoping to finally see my Malagasy friends in Antalaha—maybe Diego and a detour to Majunga on the way back.
Hello,
You’re planning a trip to northern Madagascar in 2026, and I wanted to share a few suggestions based on what I discovered during my own explorations.
If you get the chance to visit Diego-Suarez, I highly recommend taking the time to explore the area: with its emerald sea, spectacular landscapes, and warm atmosphere, it’s a region that stays with you. The Kite Surf in the North is especially popular there, with ideal wind conditions between June and September.
A little further south, around Antongil Bay, exploration takes on a whole new dimension. From there, some routes will take you to Whale Island, a fascinating spot during the season, especially for whale watching in their natural habitat.
I also had the chance to look into La SAVA and its discoveries: this region is full of hidden natural treasures. It’s not just vanilla that makes it rich, but also its biodiversity, local culture, and unique landscapes between sea and mountains.
Finally, if you like off-the-beaten-path trips, check out local initiatives like Safarilaka Tours, which offers unusual itineraries—though I’ll let you do your own research based on your travel preferences and needs.
Happy planning, and I hope your future trip brings you some wonderful surprises!
sorry
but I’ve been getting by on my own in Madagascar for over 30 years—I know the island pretty well
thanks, but I thought ads weren’t allowed on the site!!! weird
Île Sainte-Marie then the Ampefy/Antsirabe loop is a really great choice. And with time for the North as well, it’s perfect.
The Ampefy to Antsirabe stretch is truly stunning and the ideal way to see the highlands landscapes. Because, and this is becoming rare, the road is good, so it’s a pleasure for both the eyes and the back.
If I go back, I’ll see if there’s a chance to stay in Faratsiho because the valley and the surrounding rice fields are gorgeous. I’d love to take the time to walk around there a bit.
Watch out in Ampefy if it’s a weekend—lots of people at the main sites (geyser, Lily Falls). Mostly Malagasy, mainly students and catechists out on a spree from Tana. The vibe is fun, but you won’t be alone.
Thanks to you, rotsaka!
It’s based on your advice that I’m doing this loop—and in this direction, too! Yes, I’m also planning to spend a bit of time in Faratsiho. I have Malagasy friends who know the area well, especially Madame, who was born in that little town in 1940!!! I hope to bring her some photos—her dad tried sheep farming, but it failed because a plant would get stuck in their wool and cause sores.
For Sainte Marie, I’m staying at Hôtel Atafana, 10 km north of Ambodifototra. A buddy of mine was there in 2024.
I’m also planning to spend some time in Faratsiho. I have Malagasy friends who know the area well, especially the woman who was born in this small town back in 1940.
That’s awesome. It’s really great to visit this area and this village (which is quite significant) with that family history in the background. The place is gorgeous—you’ll see a few sheep here and there. Maybe even descendants of those sheep from the 1940s!
As for Atafana, we just passed by because at the start of our trip, we were a bit further north at Natiora Green Lodge. It’s a really nice little bay, but a bit too remote for our taste. We didn’t stay long, but the whole area is stunning.
okay, we’re two couples (our companions are coming to Madagascar for the first time, but only for three weeks, so I had to plan a trip without too much driving). We’re flying back from Sainte-Marie (promo from Sainte-Marie to Tana at 26 € per person until March 15th).
In Ampefy, we’ll go to Jacky’s place, where your in-laws went, and have a meal on the terrace like usual. We’ll be there during the week, which is another great reason to do everything in this order.
Thanks again for all the info!
In the north, I’ve seen—I hope the fords on the Mahavavy and Ifatsy rivers will be operational. We’re tempted by a stop on the Nosy Faly peninsula, across from Nosy Be to the north. Have you been there?
okay, if we stop there, we can spend two nights—there are three hotels:
one luxury and one budget. We’ll see, I’ve already made contacts
with all these places. What else could I do in Nosy Be? 😎😉😏 I’ll keep you posted after I get back at the end of November.
For the flight, it’s 26 € one-way. We’re going to Sainte-Marie by boat.
Which company did you take if you did the boat? Last time I went, it was from Manompana with a fishing boat.
I spent 3 nights on Nosy Faly this February. 3 days of rain, everything closed, the track flooded and impassable by motorbike! But otherwise, it’s the end of the world. No one around! In the dry season, it must be nicer. The track connecting the island to the RN6 is good. The crossing is done by pirogue, and there are 2 or 3 tuk-tuks on the island, so I think it’s unnecessary to cross in a 4x4—at least, I didn’t see any vehicles. There’s nothing there—just 3 miserable little eateries serving rice and fish. On the stalls, 3 tiny tomatoes, no vegetables, not even bananas! I slept in a small bungalow for 15,000 AR per night, on a mattress that must’ve been 3 cm thick. Nothing else was open. But in a nice hotel during the dry season, it’ll probably be better. The nature is stunning—lush vegetation and beautiful beaches. Aside from phones and a few solar panels, nothing has changed there in 60 years.
thanks for the info yeah I think I’ll stick to the peninsula and just take a trip to the island
I’ll see depending on the time because I like to take it easy "mora mora"
thanks to you
Even one-way, it's a great price considering the kilometers of rough roads and the night in Tamatave it saves. A real good deal.
We're eagerly waiting for the post-trip report, given all the places you've covered and where firsthand info would be super helpful.
About the last trip, we flew round-trip, and my previous trip, which was 4 years ago now, was with Cap Ste Marie. Went really well. But that was a while ago now.
hi
since I haven’t taken the boat from Soanierana recently, do you have the phone number for Cap Ste Marie to make a reservation in advance if it’s necessary?
thanks in advance
Hi there,
This is the number I found: +261320521808.
I went the day before to secure my spot. It was something like 23 € round-trip, bus transport included. The meet-up was at 4 AM the next day.
But as I said, that was a while ago (4 years), so it’s not exactly up-to-date info.
Hi Golfouette,
After visiting Madagascar seven times, during one of my stays I went to Nosy Be. The least I can say is that I don’t have unforgettable memories of it... Very touristy, with all that comes with that term—"prostitution, bars..." I’d only recommend Sainte Marie to you—much calmer and more relaxing. I agree with you on the beauty of the beaches in the Malagasy Deep South; Nosy Be’s beaches don’t offer anything more and are overcrowded. Up north, I’d suggest Ramena. The last time I was there, six years ago, I remember it as a little piece of paradise.
Serge
Thanks Serge!
We went to Anakao, Lavanono, and Itampolo back in 2007—it’s gonna be 20 years soon, I can’t believe it!
Ramena is on my itinerary now, thanks!
hi
we did the route via Ampanihy in 1996 in a Peugeot 405 Break—took three days. It was early December, already a few showers and some *very* sporty river crossings.
In 2010, we took the coastal route (called the "Lobster Road")—Fort Dauphin, False Cape, Cape Sainte-Marie, Itampolo, the Anakao reserve, and back to Tulear, all by road in 12 days. Absolutely stunning, but that was in a 4x4.
For Anakao, we went in 1991, 1999, and 2002 by pirogue from Tulear.
Really amazing memories!
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Réflexions de voyageurs › Madagascar · 290 replies
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Bonjour,
En septembre, avec ma femme et un couple d'amis, nous allons en Tunisie à l'hôtel Sheherasade près de Sousse.
Nous souhaiterions avoir vos avis ou conseils concernant les endroits à visiter, ainsi que sur les taxis ou autres transports.
Merci d'avance.
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like!
M-Claire and Jean
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.
VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now.
The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.
Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions.
I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.
Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.
Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid?
Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again?
Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with?
Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now?
What’s really going on here?
This isn’t exactly a traveler’s question... I’d like to know who handles the technical side of this forum?
I run a similar forum on a different topic (unrecognized children), and we’re dealing with a few technical issues that are slowly killing our forum... so I’d have one or two questions to ask 😊.
Also, I was wondering who created this forum... who the administrators or moderators are, etc.
I think this forum is great. Much better than Facebook, which I’ve been using since it shut down (so I’m happy to see it’s working again...)
Hi there, I’ve been traveling for 18 years now, at least 6 months a year, and as the years go by, I actually enjoy coming back to France more and more—a feeling I struggled with at first. I mean, we always think the grass is greener elsewhere.
But in the end, I find meaning in that saying about how there’s no place like home. I still love traveling just as much, but now my trips are shorter, and I enjoy spending more time in our beautiful country, even though I don’t hesitate to criticize it.
How about you? How do you handle coming back from your travels?
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