Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip

Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February. I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival. Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina), Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit. Is this doable in 3 months? Which direction should I take for this itinerary? Thanks in advance!

I visited Colombia in January 2016 and I’m heading back from August 6th to 17th with the same airline to see how things have changed. Starting August 18th, I’ll continue with independent exploration. I prefer slow travel and enjoying places at my own pace. Any tips—especially for getting around or must-see spots—are welcome!

Thu Aug 06. Fly Montreal to Bogotá 20:55-04:05+1 Air Canada Fri Aug 07. Bogotá Sat Aug 08. Bogotá Sun Aug 09. Bogotá Mon Aug 10. Fly Bogotá to Medellín Tue Aug 11. Medellín - Explore Guatapé Wed Aug 12. Comuna 8 & Hill of Values - PM Fly to Pereira Thu Aug 13. Montenegro Fri Aug 14. Salento - Cocora Valley Sat Aug 15. Fly to Cartagena Sun Aug 16. Explore Cartagena Mon Aug 17. Explore Cartagena Tue Aug 18. Fly Cartagena to Cali 12:20-14:55 Latam Wed Aug 19. Cali Thu Aug 20. Cali Fri Aug 21. Cali Sat Aug 22. Bus Cali to Popayán 09:00-13:00 Sun Aug 23. Popayán Mon Aug 24. Popayán Tue Aug 25. Popayán - Day trip to Silvia (Market Day) Wed Aug 26. Overland Popayán to Tierradentro by public transportation 4h, 100km Thu Aug 27. Tierradentro Fri Aug 28. Tierradentro Sat Aug 29. Overland Tierradentro to Garzón via La Plata Sun Aug 30. Bus Garzón to San Agustín 10:30-13:00 Mon Aug 31. San Agustín Tue Sep 01. San Agustín Wed Sep 02. San Agustín Thu Sep 03. San Agustín Fri Sep 04. Overland San Agustín to Tatacoa Desert via Neiva Sat Sep 05. Tatacoa Desert Sun Sep 06. Fly to Bogotá via Neiva 16:00-17:00 Latam Mon Sep 07. Bogotá Tue Sep 08. Fly Bogotá to Montreal 09:00-16:30 Air Canada

Hello, On our way back from Punta Arenas, we’ll be staying in Santiago for 4 days before heading home. Could you recommend any places to stay and neighborhoods in Santiago that are budget-friendly, please? We’d also like to visit Valparaíso despite some safety concerns. Is it better to hire a guide or book a organized tour from Santiago? Or can we plan it independently? Can this be done in a day? Thanks, Odile

Hi everyone,

We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.

We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄

For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...

Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !

Hello, We’re arriving at Rio Galeão on October 10th at 4:40 PM. We’ve booked a hotel near Ipanema. I’ve seen there are several options to get to Ipanema—bus plus metro, taxis—but I haven’t found any shuttle bus. Could you tell me if one exists and, if so, where to catch it at the airport? Thanks in advance

Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed?? Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?

hi there I’m thinking of heading to northeastern Brazil in January or February—I don’t really have a choice with the dates. Apparently, it rains a lot during that time. Is it really a big issue for traveling? Are these tropical downpours—heavy but brief—or more of a continuous rain? I’m especially curious about the stops in Lençóis, Atins, and Parnaíba. For Lençóis, I know the lagoons are almost empty at this time of year. I’ll also be passing through São Luís, Jericoacoara, Fortaleza, Olinda/Recife, and Salvador da Bahia, and before heading back to Europe, I’ll visit the Iguaçu Falls. What do you think? Thanks in advance for your reply. Best regards

Hello, I’m currently in Belém (Brazil) and I’m planning to take a boat to Manaus (I’ll first go to Santarém in 3 days). I’d love to get some info and contacts in Manaus for hiking, canoe trips, and more. Thanks a bunch!

IMPORTANT NOTICE for those planning to take a bus to another city, state, or destination from Salvador!

Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address! The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).

A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro. Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.

Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.

Tropical greetings from Salvador,

@ivanbahiaguide

Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷

Hi, we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously... I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres. Thanks for your feedback. Raf.

Hi, We’re heading to Mexico this summer and thinking of visiting Palenque. How much time should we allocate there? We plan to spend a day exploring the archaeological site. We’d also love to see some waterfalls—like Agua Azul, Misol-Ha, and Roberto Barrios Falls. Are these spots far from Palenque?

In the summer, is it possible to swim? I’ve read that the water can get pretty muddy due to frequent rains this time of year.

Any other excursion or hiking suggestions? Thanks

Hi there,

Assuming our flight takes off, we’re leaving on September 10th... On the 30th, we need to go to Valparaiso by bus—round trip in one day. I tried booking tickets on either Turbus or Pullman from the Alameda station, but neither site lets us enter our nationality because it’s not listed in the dropdown. Is it really necessary to book the bus tickets online, or can we just grab them the morning of—or even 48 hours ahead at the station? Thanks! Odile

Hi everyone,

I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!

Hi there, I’m not really into architecture, but I’ve always wanted to visit Brasília to see what a modern city built from scratch looks like, and I thought not many people lived there. After doing some research, I realize the city is actually quite crowded. As I’m planning my trip to Brazil, people keep telling me not to go, that I’ll be disappointed and it’s a waste of time.

For those of you who’ve been to Brasília, what do you think? Thanks for your replies. Anne

Hi everyone, actually I have a 6-month tourist visa for Bolivia, but a friend is telling me I can’t enter Bolivia with this visa. I don’t understand why—he says I need a transit visa instead. Could someone please clarify this for me? I’m really confused.

hi everyone, I just got back from 3 weeks in Paraguay. If you'd like any info, feel free to ask!

Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much

Hi there, We’re planning a month-long (or longer) trip to Colombia next February. We’re thinking of getting around by bus or taxi. For part of the trip, we’ve decided to start in Bogotá, then head to Villa de Leyva, then Barichara and the Chicamocha Canyon, and finally arrive in Bucaramanga to catch a flight to Medellín. If bus routes aren’t available, is it easy to find taxis in the villages or at hotels? Thanks for your tips!

Hi there, We’ll be in Argentina for 24 days starting mid-September 2025. I’m not sure where to go for this time of year—is Patagonia doable? Iguazu without a doubt, Salta, Peninsula Valdes to see the wildlife? Can we see penguins at that time? We love hiking, thanks for your tips!

Hi everyone, I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus. I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum. After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest. I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby. If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them. Have a great day, everyone.

Hi there, I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca. From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?

Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?

The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!

Hi there! I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes... I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area. Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities? Thanks in advance! Best, Olivier 🌍

Hi everyone, Back on the forum after a long absence.

For those who’ve had their large suitcases shrink-wrapped at Bogota Airport: - Is it useful and secure? - If so, do you know the cost per trolley bag (122 L)? - After checking in luggage, if customs or others want to inspect it, what happens?

We’ve been waiting to hear stories on this confusing topic!

Thanks for your feedback. Best, Rapp

Hi there, I’m planning to visit the Cotahuasi area in a few months. I’d like to know which bus companies operate the Arequipa to Cotahuasi route and which ones are the safest in terms of avoiding accidents. Is the road passable if we rent a car to get there? Has anyone reading this traveled by car to this destination? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hi there,

I’m about to fulfill a dream that includes a trip to Patagonia between October and December 2026. I’ll be traveling solo.

My plan: - Take a boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (4-5 days) - Torres del Paine National Park (2-3 days) - Bus from Puerto Natales to Ushuaïa (1-2 days) - Exploring around Ushuaïa (3-4 days) - Cruise from Ushuaïa to Punta Arenas (Oct 31 - Nov 4) - Rent a vehicle and head back up to Puerto Montt by around December 10, which is about 35 days total, via Los Glaciares, El Chaltén, Patagonia NP, Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Bahía Exploradores, Cerro Castillo NP, Coyhaique, Queulat NP, Chaitén, Pumalín NP, and Hornopirén NP.

My goal is to enjoy nature and do some hiking.

I’ll be in Torres del Paine around October 20—is the weather manageable for day hikes at that time?

30-35 days from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt? That’s about 3,600 km. Is this timeframe doable to enjoy the scenery without rushing? If I arrive in the north earlier, it’s no big deal—I’ll just explore more spots above Puerto Montt.

Now, about the vehicle... I’m torn between a car + tent (regular car with a tent on top) and a small van. Is this enough for the Carretera Austral or unpaved roads? Or would a 4x4 be better? I’m not an experienced 4x4 driver—I’ve only driven occasionally to give the main driver a break on easy sections. A van is tempting for the comfort. Are there any rental options for slightly modified cars or ones where you can sleep, like a Kangoo?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on my itinerary and advice on the vehicle!

Hi everyone, After a lot of hesitation due to the season, I finally booked my tickets to Lima from June 30 to March 11—I’ll be crossing my fingers for the weather! We’re planning the classic southern loop with a rental car, either the whole thing or part of it. I’ve got a ton of questions: Is it possible to drive to the Salinas y Aguada Blanca Reserve with our own vehicle? Is the road to Cusco (the 34 E) in good condition? Is it better to return via Andahuaylas, Pampachiri, Nazca? Or through Ayacucho toward Paracas? I’m also hesitating about heading to the Cordillera Blanca and pushing on to Trujillo and Chan Chan because of the weather. The other option would be to spend a week or 10 days in northern Chile, which I think is amazing...

So, if you’ve got any tips or suggestions?

Hi everyone,

I’d love to get your thoughts on the itinerary we’re planning for this summer (August) with our three older teens. We’ve booked our round-trip flight from Lyon to Rio. Originally, we were thinking of heading down to Paraty / Ilha Grande... but after checking, the water temperature seems a bit too cool, so we’d prefer to go to Bahia state for a bit more warmth. Our interests: discovering the people and cities, enjoying the beach and relaxation, a few short hikes, etc.

What do you think of this itinerary? Too much time lost in transit?

Day Stop J1 Flight J2 Early morning arrival in Rio J3 Rio J4 Rio J5 Rio J6 Flight to Foz do Iguaçu J7 Foz do Iguaçu J8 Foz do Iguaçu J9 Flight to Salvador J10 Salvador J11 Salvador J12 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J13 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J14 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J15 Ilha de Boipeba J16 Ilha de Boipeba J17 Ilha de Boipeba J18 Ilha de Boipeba to Salvador J19 Salvador to Rio J20 Flight J21 Arrival in France Thanks so much for your help!!!! Flo

Hi there, we're heading to Antarctica in February for the trip of a lifetime! After spending 3 weeks on the boat, we'd love some advice on how to extend our trip. We were thinking of staying in Buenos Aires, which we’ll have visited on the way there. So we’re considering exploring the areas around the capital. Any ideas for a week of discoveries? Thanks so much for your input!

Hi there,

We’re planning a 10-day road trip from Recife to Natal by car with our two kids (9 and 11). We’ll start by spending 2 days exploring Recife and Olinda, and finish with a few days in Pipa.

We’d love any suggestions for things to see, activities, or places to stay. Thanks!

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