Hi there,
we’re heading to Colombia from mid-January to mid-February 2025 and we’d love to visit the Tierradentro and San Agustín sites in February. We’ve heard these sites are closed on Tuesdays during the low season—but when exactly *is* the low season? We need to plan our bus routes.
Thanks in advance!
Anne
Hello,
I’ve planned a 3.5-week trip to Chile in February/March 2025, with the goal of driving the Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel in a rented 4x4. The itinerary is set, accommodations are booked, and the 4x4 is reserved. We could still tweak things a bit, but it’s getting harder to find available lodging in some spots.
Here’s the planned route: - 1 night in Puerto Montt on arrival day - 2 nights in Castro (Chiloé Island) - 2 nights near Ensenada - 1 night in Horniporén - 1 night in Chaitén - 3 nights in Puyuhuapi - 2 nights in Coyhaique - 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane - 2 nights in Caleta Tortel - 3 nights in Puerto Guadal - 1 night in Chile Chico (to take the ferry across the lake) - 1 night in Villa Cerro Castillo before flying out from Balmaceda
I have a few questions about the activities we’d like to do:
The **Marble Caves**: I’d love an option that lets us "go inside" them. From what I’ve read, this depends on the water level, wind, and type of boat. Any tips or advice? We’d like to do an **excursion to see condors**. We were thinking of doing this while in Coyhaique (we’re staying 2 nights). Has anyone done this? With which agency? We’re spending 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. The idea is to **explore the vast Patagonia Park and its wildlife**. But I’m not sure where to start. Any recommendations for day hikes or itineraries? I read somewhere that you can do a day trip with a guide that includes a boat ride on Lake Cochrane, but I can’t find the booking info. An agency for **glacier exploration** (we were thinking of **Lake Leones Glacier**). I contacted Ruta León but haven’t heard back. Any agencies to recommend?
Thanks so much! Pascale
I’ve planned a 3.5-week trip to Chile in February/March 2025, with the goal of driving the Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel in a rented 4x4. The itinerary is set, accommodations are booked, and the 4x4 is reserved. We could still tweak things a bit, but it’s getting harder to find available lodging in some spots.
Here’s the planned route: - 1 night in Puerto Montt on arrival day - 2 nights in Castro (Chiloé Island) - 2 nights near Ensenada - 1 night in Horniporén - 1 night in Chaitén - 3 nights in Puyuhuapi - 2 nights in Coyhaique - 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane - 2 nights in Caleta Tortel - 3 nights in Puerto Guadal - 1 night in Chile Chico (to take the ferry across the lake) - 1 night in Villa Cerro Castillo before flying out from Balmaceda
I have a few questions about the activities we’d like to do:
The **Marble Caves**: I’d love an option that lets us "go inside" them. From what I’ve read, this depends on the water level, wind, and type of boat. Any tips or advice? We’d like to do an **excursion to see condors**. We were thinking of doing this while in Coyhaique (we’re staying 2 nights). Has anyone done this? With which agency? We’re spending 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. The idea is to **explore the vast Patagonia Park and its wildlife**. But I’m not sure where to start. Any recommendations for day hikes or itineraries? I read somewhere that you can do a day trip with a guide that includes a boat ride on Lake Cochrane, but I can’t find the booking info. An agency for **glacier exploration** (we were thinking of **Lake Leones Glacier**). I contacted Ruta León but haven’t heard back. Any agencies to recommend?
Thanks so much! Pascale
Good evening,
We're leaving from January 26 to February 7 with our two kids, aged 23 and 27. I'm hoping to visit Iguazu, Rio, Ilha Grande, or Cabo Frio. I have a few questions.
- Should we visit Rio with a guide, considering we want to explore favelas and hike to reach the main sites? And how many days should we plan for it?
- How many days for Ilha Grande, and is the weather favorable during this period? Is it a must-see?
- What do you think of Cabo Frio?
In terms of organization, is it better to visit Iguazu at the beginning, middle, or end of our stay, departing from São Paulo or Rio? We haven’t bought our flight tickets yet, so I can arrange to arrive or depart from Rio/São Paulo.
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences and opinions!
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We’re two women of a certain age heading off to discover Chile for three weeks starting at the end of December.
We’re not really hikers, but we’re planning a few days in Torres del Paine (flying from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales), though we’re having trouble getting around the park by transport and finding reasonably priced accommodation...
There are a lot of bad reviews about the services on-site and the prices—overtourism! Is it still doable this season? Rent a car from Puerto Natales airport? Or would it be better to focus on another region that’s just as beautiful but less touristy?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
Hi everyone.
We’re heading to Brazil at the end of August for a month as a couple.
Could anyone help us find accommodation and particularly interesting spots along this legendary route?
We’ll be renting a car and plan to make 2 or 3 stops, but we prefer exploring on foot or by boat once we’re there.
I know that lodging is particularly expensive there and that access to nature is usually on private properties, but our budget is limited and comfort isn’t our priority.
Thanks for your replies.
Fred
Hello,
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
Hi everyone!
My partner and I are heading to Argentina for a 3-week trip at the end of January, and we’d love to know which of these options is best:
- Exchanging euros to pesos directly once we’re there
- Exchanging euros to USD here in France and bringing the USD to swap for pesos as soon as we arrive in Argentina, since we’ve seen a lot of advice about bringing USD.
Another question: how much cash should we bring for 3 weeks in Argentina?
Thanks so much for your help! Looking forward to your tips! Yannick
Another question: how much cash should we bring for 3 weeks in Argentina?
Thanks so much for your help! Looking forward to your tips! Yannick
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Hi there,
I’m planning a 3-week trip to Patagonia and Chile at the end of March. I’m looking for a pretty chill itinerary that isn’t too tiring for health reasons, but still a nice trip...
To avoid spending three weeks in the somewhat chilly Patagonia, we’re planning to head up to Valparaíso and the Atacama Desert. Here’s the itinerary:
Arrival in Buenos Aires
Flight to El Calafate (4 nights)
Bus to Puerto Natales (1 night)
Torres del Paine (4 nights)
Santiago (1 night) (flight from Puerto Natales)
Valparaíso (4 nights)
San Pedro de Atacama (5 nights)
Santiago (1 night) then flight to Paris
I’m wondering whether it’s worth going all the way to Ushuaia. Sure, it’s a legendary destination, but is it as impressive as El Calafate and Torres del Paine?
The other option would be to cut one night from Torres del Paine, Valparaíso, and San Pedro, and spend 3 nights in Ushuaia instead.
Also, I’m a bit confused about whether an international driver’s permit is required to drive in Argentina and Chile. I’ve applied for one, but the processing times are really long, and I probably won’t have it before I leave...
Thanks for your feedback,
Marc
Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition)
Hi fellow travelers,
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
Hi everyone, my son and I are planning a 2-week trip at the end of the year and would like to visit Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain) and then experience the Amazon in a lodge near Iquitos (probably Muyuna). What’s the ideal itinerary, considering there’s no direct flight between Cusco and Iquitos?
Just to clarify, we’re skipping Machu Picchu and only plan to spend one night in Lima to recover from the inbound flight.
All your tips and suggestions are welcome. Thanks! Pascal
Just to clarify, we’re skipping Machu Picchu and only plan to spend one night in Lima to recover from the inbound flight.
All your tips and suggestions are welcome. Thanks! Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting this because the two replies to my question were really nice, but one was from someone who traveled to Colombia five years ago, and the other from someone who’s never been. Plus, my question got buried in a completely off-topic discussion.
To clarify, I’d love **RECENT** info on safety in Colombia right now.
So, here it is again.
I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve read a lot about safety there—everything and its opposite. You, Colombia experts, after your recent return from Colombia, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely today? We don’t plan to visit narco or paramilitary zones. What about the current political situation? We’re traveling as a couple, without a tour. Thanks for your replies.
I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve read a lot about safety there—everything and its opposite. You, Colombia experts, after your recent return from Colombia, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely today? We don’t plan to visit narco or paramilitary zones. What about the current political situation? We’re traveling as a couple, without a tour. Thanks for your replies.
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve been reading a lot about safety in Colombia—everything and its opposite.
For those of you who know Colombia, currently, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely? I don’t plan on going to narco or paramilitary zones. What about the political situation? I’m traveling as a couple, without any tour organization.
I just signed up and I’m still figuring out how this forum works—I didn’t know where to look for answers.
Thanks.
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
Hi there,
I’m looking for advice on a semi-independent two-week trip to Peru. We’re not big fans of group tours and love exploring off the beaten path.
Is October a good time to avoid the crowds?
Thanks in advance for your tips! !
Hello everyone,
I'm just starting to plan a two-week trip I'd like to take with my wife in early May.
This trip would include the Atacama Desert, which I was lucky enough to visit alone once and would love to experience again with her.
But I'd like to add one or two other places to visit, keeping in mind that we're much more into nature than cities.
I was thinking about part of adjacent Bolivia... but since we'll have already seen quite a few stunning high-altitude lakes around Atacama, what would be some interesting and very different spots?
We would have loved to include Peru as well, but it might be tricky to combine in just two weeks.
I'll go through the many posts on this forum, but if any of you have some tempting ideas for this time of year (late April - early May), I'm all ears.
Thanks! :)
Hello,
How good it feels to be back on this forum!!!!
Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.
Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.
We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.
We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.
Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.
We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.
Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.
Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.
Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.
Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.
Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.
We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.
We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.
Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.
We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.
Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.
Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.
Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.
hi,
We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers
We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers
Hi,
We’re considering a discovery trip to Brazil in summer 2025 for a maximum of 3 weeks, transport included.
Since the must-see sites are very far apart, we’ve selected the ones that seemed the most spectacular and have little or no equivalent elsewhere in the world.
Here’s what we’re thinking:
Outbound: 1 day Paris → São Paulo
Iguaçu: 2 days
Transfer: 1 day via São Paulo or Rio and São Luís
Lençóis National Park: 3 days
Transfer: 1 day via São Luís
Salvador de Bahia: 2 days
Transfer: 1 day via Rio
Rio: 4 days
Return: 1 day
What do you think?
I was thinking of adding a stop that’s easily accessible without flying from one of the places above. Ilha Grande? Tinharé Island? Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Virginie
Hi everyone,
My husband and I are planning to explore Ecuador in the coming year, and to make the most of the trip, we’d like to do it with a rental car. We already have a rough idea of the route we’d take, and I’m reaching out to the community to help us refine this journey. Here’s the plan:
Day 1: Flight to Quito
Days 2 and 3: Exploring Quito
Days 4 and 5: Picking up the rental car and driving to Otavalo and Laguna Cuicocha
Day 6: Drive to Papallacta via Cayambe to enjoy the hot springs in the evening
Days 7 and 8: Drive to Lasso via Malachi – Excursions in Cotopaxi National Park. Laguna Limpiopungo
Days 9 and 10: Laguna Quilotoa
Day 11: Drive to Baños via Latacunga/Ambato to enjoy the hot springs in Baños
Days 12 and 13: Hiking in the Chimborazo Reserve
Day 14: Hiking in Sangay National Park
Day 15: Drive to Guamote to arrive by late afternoon
Day 16: Guamote market in the morning. Drive to Cañar in the afternoon
Day 17: Guided tour of Ingapirca, then drive to Cuenca
Day 18: Visit Cajas National Park early in the morning
Day 19: Exploring Cuenca
Day 20: Returning the rental car and flight to Quito or driving back to Quito (depending on cost)
Day 21: Relaxing in Quito
Day 22: Flight back to France
We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).
We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine
We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).
We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine
Hello,
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort.
Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site.
Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life.
Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
Hi there,
I’m about to fulfill a dream that includes a trip to Patagonia between October and December 2026. I’ll be traveling solo.
My plan: - Take a boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (4-5 days) - Torres del Paine National Park (2-3 days) - Bus from Puerto Natales to Ushuaïa (1-2 days) - Exploring around Ushuaïa (3-4 days) - Cruise from Ushuaïa to Punta Arenas (Oct 31 - Nov 4) - Rent a vehicle and head back up to Puerto Montt by around December 10, which is about 35 days total, via Los Glaciares, El Chaltén, Patagonia NP, Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Bahía Exploradores, Cerro Castillo NP, Coyhaique, Queulat NP, Chaitén, Pumalín NP, and Hornopirén NP.
My goal is to enjoy nature and do some hiking.
I’ll be in Torres del Paine around October 20—is the weather manageable for day hikes at that time?
30-35 days from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt? That’s about 3,600 km. Is this timeframe doable to enjoy the scenery without rushing? If I arrive in the north earlier, it’s no big deal—I’ll just explore more spots above Puerto Montt.
Now, about the vehicle... I’m torn between a car + tent (regular car with a tent on top) and a small van. Is this enough for the Carretera Austral or unpaved roads? Or would a 4x4 be better? I’m not an experienced 4x4 driver—I’ve only driven occasionally to give the main driver a break on easy sections. A van is tempting for the comfort. Are there any rental options for slightly modified cars or ones where you can sleep, like a Kangoo?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on my itinerary and advice on the vehicle!
I’m about to fulfill a dream that includes a trip to Patagonia between October and December 2026. I’ll be traveling solo.
My plan: - Take a boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (4-5 days) - Torres del Paine National Park (2-3 days) - Bus from Puerto Natales to Ushuaïa (1-2 days) - Exploring around Ushuaïa (3-4 days) - Cruise from Ushuaïa to Punta Arenas (Oct 31 - Nov 4) - Rent a vehicle and head back up to Puerto Montt by around December 10, which is about 35 days total, via Los Glaciares, El Chaltén, Patagonia NP, Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Bahía Exploradores, Cerro Castillo NP, Coyhaique, Queulat NP, Chaitén, Pumalín NP, and Hornopirén NP.
My goal is to enjoy nature and do some hiking.
I’ll be in Torres del Paine around October 20—is the weather manageable for day hikes at that time?
30-35 days from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt? That’s about 3,600 km. Is this timeframe doable to enjoy the scenery without rushing? If I arrive in the north earlier, it’s no big deal—I’ll just explore more spots above Puerto Montt.
Now, about the vehicle... I’m torn between a car + tent (regular car with a tent on top) and a small van. Is this enough for the Carretera Austral or unpaved roads? Or would a 4x4 be better? I’m not an experienced 4x4 driver—I’ve only driven occasionally to give the main driver a break on easy sections. A van is tempting for the comfort. Are there any rental options for slightly modified cars or ones where you can sleep, like a Kangoo?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on my itinerary and advice on the vehicle!
Hi everyone,
I just got back from a trip to Colombia and wanted to share my experience with you—maybe it’ll help some of you out.
I met a French guy living in Bogota who offers airport transfer services, so you can arrive with total peace of mind and confidence.
He’s really friendly, punctual, and can even drive you around for your sightseeing trips in Bogota.
He’s just starting out, and I promised I’d mention him, so here it is!
Have a great day.
Hi everyone, we’re planning to spend 2 months in Colombia (February–March), and the current events have us wondering about safety.
Do you have any updates, or have you just come back that might reassure us?
Thanks!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus.
I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum.
After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest.
I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby.
If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them.
Have a great day, everyone.
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks







