Discussions similar to: Départ Amérique Sud
FR
Securing Suitcases When Leaving Bogota
Hi everyone, Back on the forum after a long absence.

For those who’ve had their large suitcases shrink-wrapped at Bogota Airport: - Is it useful and secure? - If so, do you know the cost per trolley bag (122 L)? - After checking in luggage, if customs or others want to inspect it, what happens?

We’ve been waiting to hear stories on this confusing topic!

Thanks for your feedback. Best, Rapp
Open
Which direction should I take for the Salta–Mendoza loop from and back to Buenos Aires?
Hi everyone,

I’m planning a trip to Argentina in February. I’ll be starting from Buenos Aires and want to do a loop that goes through Salta and Mendoza before returning to Buenos Aires. I’m still undecided on the direction: • Buenos Aires → Mendoza → Salta → Buenos Aires or • Buenos Aires → Salta → Mendoza → Buenos Aires.

I plan to explore each region, alternating between buses and a rental car.

In your opinion, which direction makes more sense for this itinerary (climate, roads, logistics, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for your tips! !
Open
Trip to Chile: pesos or dollars?
Hi there, Our departure is coming up soon... Since we’ll be mostly in the San Pedro de Atacama area and Chilean Patagonia, is it better to bring only Chilean pesos or is it wise to also take some US dollars? Thanks! Odile
Open
Patagonia cruise: what equipment to bring?
Hi, I’ve booked a cruise on the Stella Australis for early February 2026. Departure from Punta Arenas, arrival in Ushuaia in 5 days with 4 nights on board, and stops (zodiac landings). Has anyone already done this cruise or hung out… way down there? What I’m wondering is what kind of clothes to bring, since I’ll need to gear up. Thanks in advance for your tips. Xabi.
Open
Trip to the Amazon
Hi everyone, I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus. I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum. After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest. I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby. If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them. Have a great day, everyone.
Open
Booking the Tren a las Nubes in Salta
Hi there, We’ll be staying in Salta in September and plan to take the "Tren a las Nubes." Should we book from France, or will it be possible to buy our tickets on the day of departure? Will the price be different? We’re hesitating between the bus-train option from Salta (long trip) or just taking the train from San Antonio de los Cobres, which would mean renting a car to get there. What do you recommend? Thanks for your great tips!
Open
Planning a circuit + flights in Brazil
Hi everyone, Our travel plans to Brazil in October are moving forward. Now we're looking for the best way to put it all together. Starting from Montpellier, probably connecting through CDG, arriving in Salvador de Bahia, stopping in Belo Horizonte, then a flight to Rio, and the return trip. How can we manage to finalize such a circular flight? Thanks in advance for your tips. Best, Serge
Open
Feedback on Northeast Brazil itinerary in February
Hello,

We’re leaving on February 19th for 13 days in the Northeast of Brazil, with my husband and our two kids (19 and 17). Here’s our itinerary: We’ll arrive in Fortaleza and stay in a guesthouse for 3 nights. Then we’ll hit the road with a private driver, heading to Pipa via the beach of Ponta do Mel, passing through Galinhos, São Miguel, and Natal.

Do you think this is a good itinerary?

Initially, I was planning to go from São Luís to Fortaleza (Lençóis Maranhenses...), but I was advised against it since it’s not really the season and the dunes and lagoons would’ve been empty. I can’t change the itinerary now, but I’m a bit worried I’ll be less impressed by this one. I’d love to know if it’s still worth it?

Thanks in advance!
Open
Looking for a car rental in Calama
Hi, we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general. For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges. Thanks in advance. Raf.
Open
Transport questions in Colombia (buses and taxis)
Hi there, We’re planning a month-long (or longer) trip to Colombia next February. We’re thinking of getting around by bus or taxi. For part of the trip, we’ve decided to start in Bogotá, then head to Villa de Leyva, then Barichara and the Chicamocha Canyon, and finally arrive in Bucaramanga to catch a flight to Medellín. If bus routes aren’t available, is it easy to find taxis in the villages or at hotels? Thanks for your tips!
Open
Trip report: Cayenne - Macapá - Belém
I’ve seen some info about this route, but not nearly enough, so I thought I’d share what I did for anyone interested.

Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.

Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.

Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.

Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.

Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.

Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html

Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!
Open
Feedback on 20-day Brazil itinerary in August
Hi everyone,

I’d love to get your thoughts on the itinerary we’re planning for this summer (August) with our three older teens. We’ve booked our round-trip flight from Lyon to Rio. Originally, we were thinking of heading down to Paraty / Ilha Grande... but after checking, the water temperature seems a bit too cool, so we’d prefer to go to Bahia state for a bit more warmth. Our interests: discovering the people and cities, enjoying the beach and relaxation, a few short hikes, etc.

What do you think of this itinerary? Too much time lost in transit?

Day Stop J1 Flight J2 Early morning arrival in Rio J3 Rio J4 Rio J5 Rio J6 Flight to Foz do Iguaçu J7 Foz do Iguaçu J8 Foz do Iguaçu J9 Flight to Salvador J10 Salvador J11 Salvador J12 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J13 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J14 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J15 Ilha de Boipeba J16 Ilha de Boipeba J17 Ilha de Boipeba J18 Ilha de Boipeba to Salvador J19 Salvador to Rio J20 Flight J21 Arrival in France Thanks so much for your help!!!! Flo
Open
Solo traveler safety in Colombia
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve been reading a lot about safety in Colombia—everything and its opposite. For those of you who know Colombia, currently, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely? I don’t plan on going to narco or paramilitary zones. What about the political situation? I’m traveling as a couple, without any tour organization. I just signed up and I’m still figuring out how this forum works—I didn’t know where to look for answers. Thanks.
Open
Transport from Bahia to Morro and then from Boipeba to Bahia
Hi there!

I’m heading to Morro de São Paulo in the first half of September.

I’ll spend a day in Bahia and then take the fast ferry to Morro from the Terminal Turístico Náutico. I’ve heard this ferry can be canceled depending on sea conditions. Locals from Bahia, can you tell me if cancellations are common in early September or if it’s usually not a big deal?

After Morro, I’ll spend a few days in Boipeba.

My question is about the return trip to Bahia to catch my flight home.

Is it better to go back through Morro to take the ferry in the opposite direction, or can I leave directly from Boipeba to Bahia?

I want to avoid long trips and bus rides.

If there’s no way around a road trip, I could take a taxi, Uber, or something similar.

Obrigado pela ajuda for helping me optimize my route: Bahia → Morro / Boipeba → Bahia! :)
Open
Some tips and good deals for Peru
Hey hey!

We’re on a 3-month trip through Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, and then southern Brazil.

We’ve been in Ollantaytambo for 2 days now, right at the gateway to Machu Picchu...

Here are a few tips:

To get to Aguas Calientes, there are 2 options: one by train for at least $70 one-way (2h), with lots of departures throughout the day.

The other is by bus—departure in the morning, check with local agencies starting at 10 € (40 soles). The bus ends at Hidroeléctrica, where you’ll have to walk the last 2 hours... We went with option 2 ;) Leaving tomorrow morning.

PS: There’s a great little "bakery" with good prices near the market (croissants, pizza, bread, etc.).

In the Sacred Valley, I’d recommend spending a night or two in Maras—a quiet village where a nice walk will take you to Moray, then another to the Salineras...

Another really cool route to take with stops for pisco (from San Clemente, where colectivos leave) to Cusco, along stunning high-altitude roads... From Pisco to Ayacucho: 5h, then from Ayacucho to Andahuaylas: 5h. Super big local market on Saturdays/Sundays.

Plan for 6-7 hours to finish the trip to Cusco...

Happy travels! !
Open
Three Peru itineraries: which one should I choose?
Hi there,

I’ll be traveling to Peru in August 2025. Unfortunately, I only have 12 days to visit this amazing country. I’m torn between doing a fast-paced trip where I see every sight but don’t really soak it all in, or going for a lighter itinerary that lets me enjoy the moment more.

Right now, I’ve narrowed it down to three options and I’d love to hear your thoughts on which one to pick.

Option 1 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 15, 2025 Flight Lima – Cusco Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 16, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 17, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 18, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 19, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 21, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Bus Lima to Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 22, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 23, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Huacachina August 24, 2025 Bus Huacachina – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 2 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus August 16, 2025 Visit Arequipa Stay in Arequipa August 17, 2025 Colca Canyon Transfer Arequipa – Puno Stay in Puno August 18, 2025 Visit Lake Titicaca Bus Puno – Cusco (7:00 AM) Overnight bus August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 3 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 16, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Paracas August 17, 2025 Bus Paracas – Lima Flight Lima – Cusco Stay in Cusco August 18, 2025 Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada
Open
What transportation options are there for Cotahuasi Canyon from Arequipa?
Hi there, I’m planning to visit the Cotahuasi area in a few months. I’d like to know which bus companies operate the Arequipa to Cotahuasi route and which ones are the safest in terms of avoiding accidents. Is the road passable if we rent a car to get there? Has anyone reading this traveled by car to this destination? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Open
What to visit around Buenos Aires?
Hi there, we're heading to Antarctica in February for the trip of a lifetime! After spending 3 weeks on the boat, we'd love some advice on how to extend our trip. We were thinking of staying in Buenos Aires, which we’ll have visited on the way there. So we’re considering exploring the areas around the capital. Any ideas for a week of discoveries? Thanks so much for your input!
Open
Booking bus tickets to Valparaiso
Hi there,

Assuming our flight takes off, we’re leaving on September 10th... On the 30th, we need to go to Valparaiso by bus—round trip in one day. I tried booking tickets on either Turbus or Pullman from the Alameda station, but neither site lets us enter our nationality because it’s not listed in the dropdown. Is it really necessary to book the bus tickets online, or can we just grab them the morning of—or even 48 hours ahead at the station? Thanks! Odile
Open
Feedback on first-time Brazil itinerary using public transport
Hello, We’re planning our first trip to Brazil from October 10 to November 7, 2025. We’re a couple traveling with light backpacks using local transport. Here’s our planned route: Arrival in Rio de Janeiro, 5 days, Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, Belo Horizonte, 7 days, Flight from Belo Horizonte to Recife, Recife, Olinda, 4 days, Maceió, Penedo, 3 days, Aracaju, 3 days, Salvador de Bahia and surrounding areas, 5 days Departure from Salvador de Bahia to Paris

Thanks in advance for any feedback you can share!

Of course, everything is flexible except for our arrival in Rio and departure from Salvador de Bahia.

Could you also recommend a neighborhood to stay in Rio? Alod
Open
Help choosing itinerary: Chile - Argentina - Brazil
Hello, How good it feels to be back on this forum!!!!

Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.

Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.

We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.

We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.

Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.

We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.

Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.

Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.

Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.
Open
Any recent feedback on safety in Iquitos?
Hi there, I’m planning our trip to Peru in September-October. Flights are booked, itinerary is pretty much set, but... after hearing about recent attacks on the river (Iquitos)—apparently around ten—I’m having second thoughts. It’s my husband’s dream to spend a few days in the jungle. I know if we read all the official travel advisories, we’d never go anywhere (no info on the government site, but I saw something on a forum). Has anyone been there recently? How did it feel? Is Iquitos sketchy? Thanks for your help! Patricia
Open
10-day independent trip to Brazil
hi,

We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers
Open
Accommodation for 4 days in Santiago (Chile)
Hello, On our way back from Punta Arenas, we’ll be staying in Santiago for 4 days before heading home. Could you recommend any places to stay and neighborhoods in Santiago that are budget-friendly, please? We’d also like to visit Valparaíso despite some safety concerns. Is it better to hire a guide or book a organized tour from Santiago? Or can we plan it independently? Can this be done in a day? Thanks, Odile
Open
Planning a 3-week itinerary in Brazil
Hi, We’re considering a discovery trip to Brazil in summer 2025 for a maximum of 3 weeks, transport included. Since the must-see sites are very far apart, we’ve selected the ones that seemed the most spectacular and have little or no equivalent elsewhere in the world. Here’s what we’re thinking: Outbound: 1 day Paris → São Paulo Iguaçu: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via São Paulo or Rio and São Luís Lençóis National Park: 3 days Transfer: 1 day via São Luís Salvador de Bahia: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via Rio Rio: 4 days Return: 1 day What do you think? I was thinking of adding a stop that’s easily accessible without flying from one of the places above. Ilha Grande? Tinharé Island? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your tips! Virginie
Open
Questions about an 11-day Brazil itinerary in February
Good evening, We're leaving from January 26 to February 7 with our two kids, aged 23 and 27. I'm hoping to visit Iguazu, Rio, Ilha Grande, or Cabo Frio. I have a few questions. - Should we visit Rio with a guide, considering we want to explore favelas and hike to reach the main sites? And how many days should we plan for it? - How many days for Ilha Grande, and is the weather favorable during this period? Is it a must-see? - What do you think of Cabo Frio? In terms of organization, is it better to visit Iguazu at the beginning, middle, or end of our stay, departing from São Paulo or Rio? We haven’t bought our flight tickets yet, so I can arrange to arrive or depart from Rio/São Paulo. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences and opinions!
Open
Where to stay in Rio, Paraty, and Iguazu Falls?
Hi everyone! I’m looking for accommodation in these three destinations, with a budget of 100 € per person max including breakfast. I’d prefer places by the water for the first two spots and somewhere halfway between the main sights for Iguazu. Could you help me out? Thanks! 😊
Open
Brazil Trip – 19 Nights Through Agencies
Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Brazil in October and decided to go through an agency to organize our itinerary. I asked two agencies to put together a circuit with transfers, hotels, organized visits, and one domestic flight. I don’t speak Spanish or Portuguese. 6 nights in Rio 3 nights on Ilha Grande 3 nights in Paraty Domestic flight to Salvador for 3 nights 3 nights in Morro de São Paulo 1 night in Salvador before flying back to France. For this itinerary, I’m going with Tourlane, but I’m still waiting on the second quote from Comptoir des Voyages. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary and especially on these agencies—thanks for any feedback! 😊
Open
Looking for an itinerary and car rental in Chilean Patagonia
Hello,

For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?

We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?

How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?

Best regards,

Odile
Open
From Costa Rica to Suriname, a travel report
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
Open

You might also like