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Account of my cycling trip through Yunnan
Hi there,

Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.

Entry and exit

I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.

The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.

No issues with the bike.

I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.

The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.

The timing

I visited Yunnan in February 2026.

Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.

I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.

Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.

Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.

A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.

Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).

An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.

I only managed to use Alipay.

Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.

Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.

Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).

In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.

The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).

Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.

You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.

The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.

Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.

The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.

Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).

Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.

Oh well... 😉
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Saddle bag for touring bike
Hi,

First off, I just want to say how happy I am that the forum’s back up. It really means a lot. When it went down, I realized how much time I spent here and how much I valued this space for sharing. :) Hopefully, it’ll regain its momentum.

Anyway, I’m starting a thread. I’d like to get a saddle bag. I’m working on making my touring bike more versatile. It’s currently set up with racks for panniers, but for shorter rides, I’d like to remove the racks and switch to "bike-packing" mode. I’ll also be using a lighter set of wheels.

Long story short, I’d love to hear about your experiences with saddle bags you’ve used. This way, I can make an informed choice before buying.

Thanks!

Matt
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Biking in the Cyclades
Hi there, We’re heading to three islands in March (Paros, Milos, and Sifnos). Given their small size and lack of major elevation, we’d love to explore them by bike. However, I can’t find any bike rental shops on any of these islands. Has anyone done this before and have any recommendations or addresses? Thanks so much in advance!
Open
Bike parking in Thai hotels?
Hi there,

I’m cycling around the world and will soon arrive in Thailand. Is it easy to park my bike at hotels? If so, what are the usual arrangements? Thanks in advance!

Jean Michel
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Biking through tulip fields near Amsterdam: transport and accommodations
Hi, We’re traveling as a couple in mid-April for 7 days in the Netherlands. We want to see Amsterdam, the tulips, and the windmills. We’d like to bike through the tulip fields. We’re not athletes, but physical ability probably won’t be an issue. How many days should we devote to each part? (Amsterdam-windmills-tulips) Is it better to stay outside Amsterdam for the windmill-tulip portion? (like 2 nights in Leiden?) Is renting bikes a problem? Should we rent a car, or is public transport efficient? Thanks so much in advance for taking the time to answer! Mélanie
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Bike gear modifications to ease climbing with a loaded setup
Hello fellow cycling friends,

I’m heading out very soon for a few weeks in France and elsewhere on my trusty two-wheeled steel steed, with a total of me + luggage = around 120 kg gross weight, and I’ve never really tackled mountain passes before—something I’ll definitely be facing this time...

Currently, I’m running 700c wheels and a Deore XT 10-speed drivetrain (long-cage derailleur) with a 26/36/48 chainring setup and an 11-36 cassette. I’m considering two options (and possible modifications) to get a lower gear ratio (currently 0.72) and spin more easily on steep and mountainous climbs...

1 – Install an 11-42 cassette This would give me a gear ratio of 0.61. Would this be feasible with my current rear derailleur, please?

I have several new chains with 116 links—would these work for this cassette, which would have 6 more teeth on the largest cog, or would I need a longer chain?

2 – Swap the 26-tooth small chainring for a 24-tooth one This would give me a gear ratio of 0.66. Would this be feasible, please?

When switching to a 24T, will the gap be accepted by the 36-tooth middle chainring, and will shifting remain as smooth as it is now? Will this setup (24/36/48 + 11-36 cassette) still work well together, in your opinion?

Which of these two options do you think would be more feasible and preferable?

What drivetrain and gearing do you use on your bikes for loaded touring that sometimes involves climbing mountain passes and other steep ascents?

So many questions... Thanks for your answers and advice! Have a great day,

Spady
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Page 2024 turned, hello 2025 and bike projects!
hi fellow cyclists!

Outside, the weather isn’t great for bike escapes! But that doesn’t stop us from planning ahead. Starting to look at a map or other resources is when the journey begins! So, what are your plans? For us, there’s a trip in the drawer ready for a few months now—heading south (Montpellier) from the Allier department! Another idea has been taking shape: Corrèze, Périgord!!! Looking forward to reading your replies, have a great day! !
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How to repair a Suntour SF11 fork and where to find parts?
Hi everyone, Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.

The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.

Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.

Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
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Which countries are best for cycling with daily hotel stops?
Hello, I spent a month cycling in Thailand earlier this year with a touring bike equipped with two rear panniers. I loved being able to ride and stop at a hotel every night, and eat just about anywhere. I tried India two months ago but gave up because of the road conditions and chaotic traffic.

I’m looking for countries where I can cycle "without autonomy"—so no tent, no stove, just the bare minimum. Ideally, I’d like to stop at hotels or similar accommodations regularly, without having to cover 200 km a day!

I’d love to hear from your experiences—what countries make it easy to travel this way? Thanks!
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Biking around the world: all our bike routes as a tandem
For map lovers, bike routes, cycle touring all over the planet, and long-haul trips...

I had fun compiling in one place ALL the routes my partner and I have biked across the planet since 1996: Quebec far and wide, of course, but also Canada, the USA (crossed completely by bike 3 times), Mexico, and all the way to Ushuaia—basically the entire Americas.

In Europe, the Balkans, Turkey; and more recently (2024: Taiwan, Korea, and 4 months in Japan!) You can check out a global map with all the routes by continent, more detailed maps by country, and others that focus on a region, like the Balkans in Eastern Europe. In short, there’s something for everyone!

I’ve included 3 photos here, but the originals (via the link above) let you zoom in infinitely. Plus, many of my routes are represented by lines with a different color for each day of biking. Hope some of you enjoy browsing through all this as much as I enjoyed compiling it. Until the snow comes, skiing... and spring!

https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/TDM_en_Tandem_Trajets_Maps

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Cycling trip through the Po Valley and Venice
Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys! Claudio (still from Faverges) dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin) from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross) The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice. I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island, but it sounds a bit stressful. Has anyone already tackled this route?

Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/

Claudio
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Bike trip in Uganda in January 2026: looking for a teammate
Hi everyone here who loves cycling, I’m planning a 5-week trip next January in Uganda: a little tour of 1,200 to 1,500 km crossing the most beautiful spots and reserves in the country. Route to be defined together. I’m looking for someone to join me.

Interested? Nicolas (72 years old)

Travel site: nicolas.saulnier.free.fr
Open
Biking the Shimanami Kaido: organizational questions
Hi fellow travelers! I’m planning a trip to Japan from March 22 to April 12 and really want to bike the Shimanami Kaido starting from Onomichi, but I don’t cycle regularly. Has anyone here done it and could share their experience or tips? Is the weather in March-April favorable? Should I plan for 2 or 3 days? Electric or regular bike? What’s better—having my luggage forwarded along the route or leaving it in a locker? Any recommendations for accommodations or bike rentals? Thanks in advance for your replies!
Open
2 months cycling as a family: Denmark/Sweden/Finland and Estonia?
Hello fellow cycle-tourers! First post on this site for our first big family cycling adventure with our two teens (12 and 16 years old) over 2 months. We're preparing to leave in June/July from Erdeven by bike, then take the train from Auray to Paris, followed by a FlixBus from Paris to Copenhagen with our 4 bikes. After that, we're looking to refine our route: Should we go to Sweden via Helsingborg and then head up to Stockholm along the west or east coast? Maybe passing through the Gotland islands, then via the Åland Islands, why not Turku? Then off to Estonia to Tallinn, ride a bit along the coast, and return by bus if we can find one that takes 4 bikes. :))

Could you share any tips on routes in Sweden: west coast or east coast to prioritize in the south? We’ve heard it’s a shame not to go up to Norway, but we’re worried about the elevation and don’t see how to make a loop work in our 2 months / 1500 km. Any ideas? And the southern Finnish coast: should we go all the way to Helsinki or not? Maybe at the expense of Estonia?

In short, we know choosing means giving something up, but if we can do it with advice from fellow cyclists, that would be amazing! Thanks in advance for your tips! Anne-Sophie and the whole Breton family: David, Axel, and Maude
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2025 Wishes
Best wishes to all you bike travelers—I hope you have extraordinary journeys. Safe travels and happy planning! 😉
Open
Diagonals of France
A lot of water has flowed under the bridges, and many kilometers have rolled by under my wheels since my last post on this forum. I've ridden the 4 diagonals of France, a Paris-Brest-Paris, and crisscrossed the country from one end to the other.
Open
RandoCamping - Finding Accommodations During Your Bike Trek
The RandoCamping site is free for users and hosts.

Its goal is to help trekkers find accommodations (usually by the night) all across France and to promote hosts who welcome trekkers satisfactorily.

Check it out here: https://randocamping.touteslatitudes.fr

The site is collaborative and supported by associations like Cyclo-Camping International or AF3V.

It lets you plan a trip or trek (on foot or by bike) by searching for accommodations along a route. The accommodations come from the DataTourisme platform (which aggregates information from Tourist Offices) and from users (trekkers & hosts).

Train lines and passenger stations are also listed. Clicking on a station can show you (if the data is available) how accessible the platforms are with a non-dismantled bike. Bike and hiking routes come from Waymarked Trails (which is based on OpenStreetMap).

You can find more details about the site’s features on this page (version 1.0): https://randovelo.touteslatitudes.fr/randocamping-v1/







Open
Questions about cycling the Tessaout Valley
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum! I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009. Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem. Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!

Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Open
Changing bike chainring or cassette
Hello, I have a TX400. We're heading to the Andes this spring, and I wanted to see about changing my cassette to switch from an 11-35 to an 11-42 so I can tackle the big climbs more easily. So far, I've only found discussions from cyclists who switched from a 48-36-26 chainring to a 44-32-22. Has anyone kept the original chainring and just changed to a larger sprocket?
Open
Condition of the Passa Pais cycle path
I'm planning a 3-day weekend with my wife on this cycle path. The articles about this route are old, so if anyone has traveled it recently and can give me an update on its condition, that'd be great. We're riding 1994 ROCKRIDER 340 mountain bikes but with 1.5-inch tires suited for road touring—will that work, or should I switch back to MTB tires? Thanks for your replies!

A bit disappointed with the forum's revival—there isn’t much activity or shared travel stories anymore.
Open
Information for a cycling trip from Poland to Armenia via Romania and Georgia
Hi there! Every year, we go on a cycling trip abroad with panniers, lasting about two weeks. We stay in step lodgings, guesthouses, and the like. We mostly take small roads and really enjoyed northern Montenegro and Albania last year.

We’d love to hear from anyone who’s cycled in these countries before: tips on finding quiet roads, highlights of the regions we’ll pass through, how welcoming the locals are, and so on. Thanks in advance for any replies or exchanges!
Open
Cycling tour of Guadeloupe
Hi there, I’d like to cycle around Guadeloupe during the Christmas holidays. I was wondering if it’s dangerous, if it’s easy to rent a bike, and to find accommodation along the way? Thanks!
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What cycling route between Ariège and Drôme?
Hi fellow bike-packers, so I’m heading out solo by bike this spring, like I do every year—around 1,500 to 2,000 km in total. This time I want to explore the south of France. I’ll start by meeting up with a buddy in Ariège, and after that the road’s wide open toward the east, aiming for Drôme. If anyone has route ideas—especially quiet backroads, places I can wild-camp pretty much anywhere, and climbs that aren’t too steep—I’m all ears! Thanks, and see you around here or on the road. Take care.
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Questions about the Vélosud route from Biarritz to Le Barcarès
Hi there, I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week. I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès. Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route! Thanks in advance. Laurent.
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Stockholm Archipelago by bike in 4 days
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April. Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
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Solar vehicle Otonomi: seeking senior adventurer for journey from France to the Pamir!
It’s never too late to live intensely. I’m Guy, I’ve passed 70, and I’m looking for a female travel companion for an extraordinary adventure aboard OTONOMI—a solar-powered tandem I built with my own hands over two years. My past is that of an unrepentant traveler: crossing the Atlantic in an ultralight aircraft, swimming across channels, and a high-level sailing record in major transatlantic races... OTONOMI isn’t a retiree’s whim—it’s the final chapter of a life of adventure, perhaps the most beautiful one. Departure at the end of May. Route: Europe to Baku, crossing the Caspian by ferry, then Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, the Pamir, Kyrgyzstan, and return via Kazakhstan. At least 3-4 months. No need to be athletic—a session of *longe côte* (coastal walking) requires more physical effort than a full day on OTONOMI. You don’t even have to pedal at all. OTONOMI tows a foldable solar-powered caravan trailer—camping under the stars or staying in small local hotels, depending on your mood. Road expenses are shared simply. I’m looking for a free-spirited woman, curious, passionate about genuine encounters and wide-open spaces—appearance or insecurities don’t matter. Just that flame still burning inside you. A real-life test run is planned before departure—so we can meet naturally, without pressure. 📩 guy.otonomi@outlook.fr
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