Hi everyone, Back on the forum after a long absence.

For those who’ve had their large suitcases shrink-wrapped at Bogota Airport: - Is it useful and secure? - If so, do you know the cost per trolley bag (122 L)? - After checking in luggage, if customs or others want to inspect it, what happens?

We’ve been waiting to hear stories on this confusing topic!

Thanks for your feedback. Best, Rapp

Hi there, I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca. From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?

Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?

The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!

Hi there, we're heading to Antarctica in February for the trip of a lifetime! After spending 3 weeks on the boat, we'd love some advice on how to extend our trip. We were thinking of staying in Buenos Aires, which we’ll have visited on the way there. So we’re considering exploring the areas around the capital. Any ideas for a week of discoveries? Thanks so much for your input!

Hi everyone, I’d love to explore Colombia next winter and, of course, I’m really keen to discover the country’s natural wonders. However, I know that despite impressive progress, there are still security issues in Colombia, and that remote mountainous forest areas were once favored by guerrillas and drug traffickers as hideouts. I assume things are different now. I’m well aware that big cities like Bogota, Medellin, and Cartagena require extra vigilance, but that seems pretty normal in itself.

But I’d like to know if it’s possible—and safe enough—to rent a car and explore the national parks and nature reserves on my own, without a guide (such as Parque Nacional Natural Chingaza, Parque Nacional Natural Páramo de Iguaque, Parque Nacional Natural Serranía de los Yariguíes, Pico Cristóbal Colón, etc.).

Of course, I’m also aware of the dangerous wildlife (pumas, jaguars, snakes, spiders, crocs, etc.), but that’s another story.

Thanks for your replies! :-)

Hi, I’d like to know if it’s possible to leave luggage at Quito and Baltra airports so I can hike with a lighter load. Could you also share the rates for this service, please? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hi, I’m heading to Brazil soon and wanted to know the price of drinks in restaurants/hotels—like wine, beers, or cocktails—just to budget. Also, is there any risk with ice cubes? Thanks!

Hi everyone! I’m looking for accommodation in these three destinations, with a budget of 100 € per person max including breakfast. I’d prefer places by the water for the first two spots and somewhere halfway between the main sights for Iguazu. Could you help me out? Thanks! 😊

Hi everyone,

We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.

We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄

For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...

Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !

Hi there, I’m planning a road trip in a rental car in Paraguay. During this trip, I’d also like to cross the border to visit Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which are just a few kilometers from the Paraguayan border. The issue is that rental car agencies don’t allow crossing borders. So my question is: is it easy, possible, and safe to leave the rental car for 2 or 3 days in Paraguay and cross the border from Ciudad del Este? What’s the best way to get around (bus, taxi)? Thanks for your help

Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.

My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.

How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?

In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everyone, I know arachnophobes will get why I’m asking this: is it reasonable to hope to travel for a month in this country without running into a tarantula? And a follow-up question—since I’m traveling with a friend who’s terrified of seeing a snake—do you often come across reptiles? Thanks in advance for your answers!

Hi there, I’d like to walk in the footsteps of Antoine de Tounens, the king of the Mapuche. Would you happen to have a suggested route for me in the Chilean Araucanía? I’ve got the historical info from araucanie-patagonie.org, but I’d love some ideas for places to visit. Thanks

Hi there, I’m reposting this because the two replies to my question were really nice, but one was from someone who traveled to Colombia five years ago, and the other from someone who’s never been. Plus, my question got buried in a completely off-topic discussion. To clarify, I’d love **RECENT** info on safety in Colombia right now. So, here it is again.

I’m planning a trip to Colombia this summer. I’ve read a lot about safety there—everything and its opposite. You, Colombia experts, after your recent return from Colombia, would you say it’s a country where you can travel safely today? We don’t plan to visit narco or paramilitary zones. What about the current political situation? We’re traveling as a couple, without a tour. Thanks for your replies.

Hi everyone,

I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I’m really surprised by the wide range of prices charged by car rental companies in Chile, so I’d like to know which type of vehicle is best suited for the roads in the Lake District: Puerto Montt and Ensenada, between Ensenada and Pucón, and between Pucón and Currarrehue, for example. I have the choice between 4x4s (expensive!), 4x2s (I don’t know what that is), SUVs (also expensive), and more classic vehicles. Thanks in advance! JJC

Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip

Hi, I read on a blog that for long overnight trips, there’s a "cama" category and even "cama VIP". I’m planning a Santa Marta/Bucaramanga route, but I can’t find this option on the bus company websites. Has anyone already done this route, and under what conditions? Thanks for your feedback!

Hi, I'm looking for a local agency in Uyuni to do the trip and tours from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed?? Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?

Hello everyone! July 5, 2025: Argentina Update As I do every month, here’s an overview of the situation in Argentina—useful if you’re planning to visit in the coming weeks! Vibe, economy, general situation, tips for tourists, and more... Latest news for anyone thinking of visiting Argentina this year: - Mixed outlook - Current economic and social situation in Argentina - Our friend Cristina - What’s new for tourists?

What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip! Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask! You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before. Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.

As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous. Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20. On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3. In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.

In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.” But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable! So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing! Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba. Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up. Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels! For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy. Why? 1- Lack of foreign tourists, 2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),

3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.

To read the full article, check it out here: https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html

Hi everyone, we’re planning to spend 2 months in Colombia (February–March), and the current events have us wondering about safety. Do you have any updates, or have you just come back that might reassure us? Thanks!

Hi there, I just wanted to warn those who want to reach the beaches of Tayrona Park by lancha. If you're not a fan of thrills or prone to seasickness, opt for the car instead. We did this 40-minute lancha trip to Playa Cristal, with rough seas and huge waves that nearly capsized the boat several times. And we arrived at Playa Cristal completely soaked—though that wasn’t too bad, really...

Anyway, the beaches and the park are amazing.

Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition) Hi fellow travelers,

Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!

As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.

In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:

Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.

Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.

Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ

And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!

Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé

Hi there, Do you have any recommendations for comfortable accommodation in Leyva and Barichara? We're also looking for a guide to explore the areas around these two towns (parks, waterfalls, etc.). Thanks for your tips!

Hello, We’re a retired couple planning a trip to Colombia in January 2026. We’ve been reading the current travel advisories for the country, and they’re quite alarming. Do you have any recommendations for trustworthy local tour agencies we could contact to help organize visits to safe areas? Thanks so much.

hi,

We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers

Hi, I’m planning a trip to Argentina with friends for 21 days. Could you tell me which places are worth spending more time in—or not—since the country is so big?

Hi everyone, I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus. I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum. After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest. I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby. If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them. Have a great day, everyone.

Hi, We’re considering a discovery trip to Brazil in summer 2025 for a maximum of 3 weeks, transport included. Since the must-see sites are very far apart, we’ve selected the ones that seemed the most spectacular and have little or no equivalent elsewhere in the world. Here’s what we’re thinking: Outbound: 1 day Paris → São Paulo Iguaçu: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via São Paulo or Rio and São Luís Lençóis National Park: 3 days Transfer: 1 day via São Luís Salvador de Bahia: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via Rio Rio: 4 days Return: 1 day What do you think? I was thinking of adding a stop that’s easily accessible without flying from one of the places above. Ilha Grande? Tinharé Island? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your tips! Virginie

Hi there,

I’m sharing a link to the online site for all gas stations in Chile.

It can be really useful because it shows not only their locations but also the current prices per liter. The site is run by Chile’s National Energy Commission.

https://www.bencinaenlinea.cl/

This info is especially important for those traveling through remote and isolated areas like the high plateaus of the far north, the Austral Highway, Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego.

Have a great trip and stay safe out there!

Thierry