Hello, I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.

There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.

I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...

I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...

Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...

Where to go in 2025?

How about Algeria and a return to the Tassili n’Ajjer? This part of the Sahara is arguably one of the most beautiful deserts on the planet for its diversity and is accessible to everyone.

The vastness of the black rock forests and ochre dunes is complemented by the intimacy of the Djanet oasis, the heart of the Tuareg country, and the mineral memory of the Erg Admer, which bears traces of prehistoric human activity. Camping under the Milky Way, suspended in a sky of forgotten purity, adds another dimension to this rare journey.

Hi, This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car. Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Hi everyone,

Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.

A few questions:

1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!

2) What documents are required for the car?

3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊

I know there are experts on this forum.

Thanks in advance

Hello, We’re retired and would like to head to Morocco next winter, from January to March 2026, with our car and caravan. If possible, we’d love some info on traveling to Morocco and tips for several campsites. Of course, our bikes are coming along too. Thanks

Hi there, we’re planning a short week in Morocco this coming February with our two kids, aged 8 and 10. We’ll be flying into Agadir and want to drive to Tafraoute with a rental car; we’ll only have 6 full days there (arriving Monday evening and leaving the following Monday afternoon). I’m torn between two loops: Agadir–Tafraoute–Taroudant–Agadir or Agadir–Tafraoute–Tiznit–Agadir (via the Kerdouss Pass).

Either way, I’ve spotted a few places I’d like to see: the Tizourgane kasbah and the Aït Mansour gorges.

Any advice? I’m struggling to figure out if the road between Tiznit and Tafraoute is easy to drive with a rental car in February. Thanks in advance for your tips!

Maïwenn

Hi there, Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.

Hi there, I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days. We’ll be renting a car to get around. Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy? My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal! Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!

Hi fellow travelers,

We’ll be in Marrakech for 10 days in February (couple + 12-year-old child). We’d like to spend 3-4 days in Essaouira.

What’s the easiest and most budget-friendly way to make the Marrakech-Essaouira trip and then Essaouira-Marrakech (straight to the airport, I think) a few days later? Taxi? Bus? Or just rent a car? But then what do we do with the car while we’re in Essaouira? Could it be useful for exploring interesting sites outside the city while we’re there?

Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi fellow travelers, I’m looking for a nice hotel in Agadir, in a lively neighborhood, with a room that has a private bathroom, toilet, and AC (not essential). We’ll be staying for 2 or 3 nights before heading south. We land in the late afternoon—definitely not the best time to go hunting for a place to stay, especially since it’s our first trip to Morocco. Thanks for your tips!

Hi there, Just back from 3 weeks in Morocco, I’m selling a SIM card (INWI operator) at a low price. It still has 15 MAD + 10 GB of data left. This gives you a local Moroccan number to make/receive calls and texts without extra fees, and the data lets you use WhatsApp. See the 2 photos. Sold for 6 euros + postage

Hi everyone, I’m heading back to Algeria for the fourth time. I’d like to visit Ghardaia. I’ve booked my flight ticket from Oran to Ghardaia, but I read in the latest *Petit Futé* that you need to go through a local travel agency. For the south, I know it’s mandatory, but can anyone give me info about Ghardaia? I’m planning to hire a guide from the hotel where I have my reservation. Thanks!

Hello and Happy New Year to everyone!!

We have a little week of vacation from February 1st to 8th and we’d like to return to Morocco. In March 2024, we spent 4 days in Marrakech, 2 nights in the Atlas Mountains, and 1 night in Essaouira. This time, we’re hesitating between spending 3 days in Rabat and 3 days in Fez and the surrounding area (Meknes), or landing in Marrakech again but taking the road to Mergouza via Ouarzazate, the Dadès Gorges, etc. What do you recommend for this time of year? We enjoy both monuments (for the first option) and nature (for the second).

Best regards, Christophe

Bonjour à tous, Mes préparatifs pour un voyage dans le Haut Atlas au Maroc m'amènent à vous demander: - Pourquoi plusieurs personnes déconseillent de passer par un organisme international pour une location de voiture? Sauriez vous me dire pourquoi ? - Booking est sérieux et quelqu'un a t il loué, un véhicule en passant en passant par leurs services? Il y a une différence assez importante de prix avec les agences marocaines . - Y a t -il une carte routière détaillée dans la voiture? - Google maps est il suffisant pour circuler dans le Haut Atlas? Ce sera mon 1er voyage en Haut Atlas.

En remerciant tous ceux qui pourront m'aider pour cette destination dont je rêve depuis quelques années. Bonne soirée à tous Roberto

Hi there,

We’re leaving at the end of December (30th) until the beginning of January (6th) with my partner. I’ll be 6 months pregnant. We’d like to rent a car as soon as we arrive in Marrakesh but don’t want to stay there for New Year’s. We prefer the quiet of nature and remote villages. We’re planning to spend 2 days in Marrakesh before our return flight on the 6th.

What itinerary would you recommend to get off the beaten path, avoid overly touristy areas, and discover the palm groves, desert, and this region of Morocco—without overdoing it, given the advanced pregnancy? Thanks so much,

Hi there, We’ll be staying in Marrakech for a few days soon and are looking for a serious and competent guide to show us around the Marrakech medina. We’ve searched without luck so far—could you help us out? Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April. What do you think of this rate? This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.

Thanks

Hello,

We’re torn between a riad in the medina and one on the outskirts (south of Marrakech) with the advantage of peace and quiet, a big pool for the kids, but it’s far (10 km).

We’ll have a rental car. Is it easy to park near Jemaa el-Fna square, for example? Are the rates public (so we know what to expect)?

This would save us from taking taxis multiple times a day since we’ve been told it’d cost around 12 € each way. The bill could add up quickly.

Generally speaking, would you recommend staying in Marrakech itself, in the old city, or in the surrounding area? We’ll only be there for two nights with a 10-year-old girl and a 14-year-old teen who both want to explore the city but also enjoy the pool.

Thanks

Hi there, We're interested in urbanism, architecture, Arab-Muslim culture, and the daily life of locals... A rough idea: Fez and Meknes. A good plan? Maybe too touristy? We prefer off-the-beaten-path destinations (we’ve traveled to Iran, for example). What else is there to see in the region? We’re open to any suggestions. Thanks for your tips!

Hello, I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026. I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application: - Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip? - Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room? - Is it checked during inspections? - Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa? - If so, does it need to be paid in advance?

I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency. If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!

Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling. We’d organize the journey together, of course.

Thanks for your feedback! Safe travels to all, Dom, Dijon, 64 years old

Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!

Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair

- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.

- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).

- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!

Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.

Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).

Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!

Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!

Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.

Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).

A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!

Hi everyone, We’re planning a trip to Morocco in February 2026. We already know the country a bit, including the desert where we were lucky enough to take part in a rally. This time, we’d like to explore the Merzouga dunes as a family. We’ll be renting a car in Marrakech and we’re looking for advice on the best stops to make the most of the drive. We’re still undecided about the return route: should we go back through the Valley of the Roses (and maybe see the gorges if we don’t have time on the way there) or take the Draa Valley for a change? Here’s our rough itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Marrakech in the evening – Overnight stay there

Day 2: Drive east – Overnight in Skoura? Boumalne? Further on?

Day 3: Drive with a stop at the Dadès or Todra Gorges – Overnight in Merzouga

Day 4: Desert day – Overnight in Merzouga

Day 5: Return drive (Draa Valley or back through the Valley of the Roses / Route of the 1000 Kasbahs?) – Overnight in Agdz? Ouarzazate?

Day 6: Drive back to Marrakech with a stop at Aït Ben Haddou / Fint Oasis – Overnight in Marrakech

Day 7–8: Marrakech then departure

If any of you have suggestions on timing, the most enjoyable stops, or feedback on these routes, I’d love to hear your tips. Thanks in advance!

Hi there, in mid-January my wife and I are leaving from Marrakech heading to the Atlas (Essaouira ==> Dades ==> Merzouga ==> Draa Valley) before finally making our way to Taghazout near Agadir for 2 or 3 days.

The route ends up looking like this, except for the end where we head toward the ocean. https://www.les-covoyageurs.com/ressources/images-produits/photo-produit-29-carte.jpg?v=6

I’m hesitating about renting a car, and since I don’t know the road conditions, I’d like to know if a Dacia Sandero is enough for this kind of trip?

Another thing making me hesitate is the possibility of rain and roads being less passable.

I’m reaching out to more experienced travelers who can share their advice, of course.

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, I’ve given my 18-year-old daughter a week in Morocco in February. I’d like to mix a bit of Marrakech (or elsewhere) with a hotel and pool, plus a trip into the desert with some beautiful dunes. How can I structure this without making the journeys too long? Is it possible to do Marrakech to the south in 2 days, stopping at lovely spots along the way? Just to clarify, I’d prefer not to rent a car, and my daughter isn’t very "adventurous." Thanks in advance for your replies and tips!

Hi there, We’re a small group planning a road trip loop with a rental car, starting and ending in Marrakech. Two weeks at the end of October. We’d like a mix of nature discoveries, villages, ksars (ideally some photogenic and/or abandoned ones), a few hikes, and if possible, one or two nights sleeping on a rooftop/terrace in a village. What do you think of this itinerary? Thanks for your insights, and have a great evening, everyone! Christophe

10/17 Marrakech airport → Cascades Ourika Ourika Valley, Promenade des 7 Cascades – 65 km

10/18 Cascades Ourika → Telouet Toufliht (km 99) – 163 km

10/19 Telouet → Aïd Benhaddou Walks in the stunning Ounila Valley – 47 km

10/20 Aïd Benhaddou → Gorges Dadès Skoura (Association des femmes) – 168 km

10/21 Gorges Dadès → Départ Saghro Tinghir, Todgha Gorges – 154 km

10/22 Départ Saghro → Départ Saghro Walk in the Saghro (24 km) – 0 km

10/23 Départ Saghro → Tagounite Dunes Tinfou – 192 km

10/24 Tagounite → Tamnougalt Zagora – 156 km

10/25 Tamnougalt → Tamnougalt Draa Valley – 0 km

10/26 Tamnougalt → Taliouine Tazenakht – 178 km

10/27 Taliouine → Imlil Tizi n Test – 202 km

10/28 Imlil → Marrakech – 63 km

Hi there,

I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’ll be late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was a constant 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.

For southern Morocco, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but for those who’ve been there in early July, did it cause any major issues? Otherwise, I’ll start thinking of another destination.

Here’s the rough itinerary I had in mind, renting a car for the whole trip:

Day 1: Arrival in Marrakech late morning Day 2: Marrakech Day 3: Marrakech -> Aït Ben Haddou -> Ouarzazate Day 4: Ouarzazate -> Vallée des Roses -> Dadès Gorges Day 5: Dadès Gorges -> Tinghir -> Todra Gorges -> Erfoud Day 6: Erfoud -> Merzouga (Erg Chebbi desert) Day 7: Merzouga -> Ouarzazate Day 8: Ouarzazate -> seaside? Agadir or Essaouira Day 9: ?? Day 10: ?? Day 11: Return to Marrakech and flight back late afternoon

Is this schedule too rushed? Does Ouarzazate deserve an extra night? The seaside isn’t a must, as long as we can swim somewhere—pool or lake. We’re planning activities like horseback riding, camel treks, quad biking, and jeep tours.

Thanks for your input

Hi there, I’m about to take my nephews to Morocco for a week to celebrate their 18th birthdays during the first week of September. I’ve already planned most of it, but I’d love any advice or tips on my itinerary! Thanks in advance to anyone who replies :)

Day 1: Agadir → Essaouira Morning: Crocoparc/cable car/kasbah (I’d considered Paradise Valley, but it seems less great now? Dirty, drought, etc.?) Depart for Essaouira, lunch in Taghazout around 1 PM. Mid-afternoon to evening in Essaouira, overnight there. Visit the medina, walk along the ramparts and fishing port. Sunset from the Skala du Port or the beach. Dinner at one of the seafood restaurants near the port.

Day 2: Essaouira → Marrakech → Agafay Desert Morning: 🔹 Early departure from Essaouira to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Afternoon: Explore Marrakech: 🔹 Jemaa el-Fna Square 🔹 Majorelle Garden Late afternoon: 🔹 At 3 PM, depart for the Agafay Desert (~1 hour) for a camel ride + quad excursion. Evening: 🔹 Dinner and overnight in the desert.

Day 3: Agafay → Marrakech → Ouzoud Morning: 🔹 Return to Marrakech from Agafay at 11 AM. Late morning & early afternoon: Last spots in Marrakech: 🔹 Bahia Palace 🔹 Ben Youssef Madrasa Mid/late afternoon: 🔹 Depart for Ouzoud (~2.5 hours). Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouzoud. Day 4: Ouzoud → Marrakech Morning: 🔹 Visit Ouzoud Waterfalls. Early afternoon: 🔹 Return to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Late afternoon/evening: 🔹 Free time in Marrakech to wander the souks and experience Jemaa el-Fna Square at night with its evening atmosphere. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Marrakech. Day 5: Marrakech → Aït Ben Haddou → Ouarzazate Early morning: 🔹 Depart for Aït Ben Haddou via the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (~3 hours 45 minutes). Midday: 🔹 Visit the Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou. Afternoon: 🔹 Drive to Ouarzazate (~30 minutes), visit the Taourirt Kasbah. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouarzazate. Day 6: Ouarzazate → Agadir Very early departure in the morning. Morning: Visit Agadir’s souk. Afternoon: 🔹 Relax at the hotel pool, jet ski, and overnight stay. Day 7: Agadir Morning off. 🔹 Beach and pool time. Return flight.

Thanks so much!

Hi there, if you're planning to rent a car to get around in Morocco, make sure to budget for "fines" even if you drive perfectly. For example, getting caught going 5 km/h over the speed limit 500 meters before you see the sign dropping the limit to 60 km/h—while being overtaken by a packed taxi with no seatbelts. Or, say, stopping at a stop sign for 3 seconds but not long enough, even though no helmetless motorcyclists were stopping either (yes, helmets are mandatory in Morocco)... Anyway, plan a "fine" budget for your Moroccan "vacation."

Hi there,

We’re planning to visit southern Morocco from April 30th to May 11th (10 full days). I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on the itinerary I’ve planned. We’ll be arriving in Ouarzazate and departing from Agadir. We’re thinking of renting a Dacia for this little road trip. Thanks in advance for your tips!

**Ouarzazate** – Arrival at 7:00 PM. Dinner in Ouarzazate, then drive to Ait Ben Haddou. **Night in Ait Ben Haddou** – To visit in Ait Ben Haddou: - The Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou - The Kasbah of Tifoultoute (on the way down to Ouarzazate) In Ouarzazate itself: - Visit the Kasbah Taourirt (gorgeous) 30 minutes south of Ouarzazate: - Fint Oasis Leaving Ouarzazate (eastbound): Route of the 1,000 Kasbahs - Kasbah Amridil (just before arriving in Skoura) - Skoura Palm Grove (a must-see) **Valley of the Roses** – Tamellalt / Boulmane Dadès – Night in Tamellalt? Boulmane Dadès? **Dadès Gorges**: 2–3 hour hike/walk (in the Valley of the Monkey Fingers) Then head toward the Todgha Gorges Arrival at the Todgha Gorges/Tinghir in the late afternoon (3-hour drive) **Visit Todgha Gorges**: no particular activity—it’s the road that’s stunning. **Tinghir** – Night in Tinghir? The next morning, head toward either: - Zagora (3h20 – 208 km) - Or M’Hamid (4h48 – 305 km) **Night in Zagora? M’Hamid?** **Drive to the Sahara Desert** – First night in the desert: camels, oasis, etc. Second night in the desert Return to Zagora or M’Hamid, then depending on arrival time, drive to Agdz? Taliouine, or Taroudant (a bit far) **Night in Agdz? Taliouine? Taroudant?** Then drive to Taghazout **Night in Taghazout** Drive to Essaouira **Visit Essaouira the next day** **Night in Essaouira** Return to Taghazout the following morning **Night in Taghazout** One extra day (buffer) **May 11th** – Drive to Agadir for morning flight departure

Hi there, I’m planning to cross the Atlas M’Goun-Toubkal range at the end of March and I’m looking for info on how to get to Ait Bou Oulli from Marrakech via Demnate. Can anyone tell me if there’s a direct bus to Demnate and then a minibus (once it’s full) to Ait Bou Oulli? Is it doable in a day by bus or even a shared taxi?

Thanks in advance