How about Algeria and a return to the Tassili n’Ajjer?
This part of the Sahara is arguably one of the most beautiful deserts on the planet for its diversity and is accessible to everyone.
The vastness of the black rock forests and ochre dunes is complemented by the intimacy of the Djanet oasis, the heart of the Tuareg country, and the mineral memory of the Erg Admer, which bears traces of prehistoric human activity. Camping under the Milky Way, suspended in a sky of forgotten purity, adds another dimension to this rare journey.
Don’t forget—unless recent laws have changed—that the entire region, including Hoggar, Tassili, Djanet, and Tamanrasset, is off-limits for solo travel, whether you're on foot or with a personal vehicle.
Visits are only allowed when properly supervised by a military or police escort, so you’ll need to arrange this in advance or go through a tour operator, who will also be closely escorted.
All independent travel, with full freedom, is prohibited.
Good luck!
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
What you're saying is false: we spent 10 days around Djanet in December 2024 and I didn’t see any police escort... nowhere, with no group of travelers. It’s only between Tamanrasset Airport and the city of Tamanrasset that we had this escort.
Where did you get this information? Have you just returned from the Algerian Sahara?
Be careful not to spread misinformation......
After multiple transactions with the Bordeaux consulate agent, I was only able to obtain a one-month visa for my trip spanning November and December 2023, instead of the three months I requested.
I should mention that for all the countries I’ve visited, I’ve never used a "tour operator" and have always traveled independently—either with my own vehicle throughout Europe (including Ukraine, and even two months in Iceland in a 2CV Citroën in 1965), or by renting a vehicle, or more rarely by public transport.
When I applied for the visa, the clerk at the Bordeaux consulate clearly outlined the rules for independent travel with my own vehicle (for 35 years, it’s been the same little VW Transporter T3 camper, my avatar).
First, a day-by-day breakdown of each stage with proof of paid hotel reservations, which would have been impossible for me since I almost never know exactly where I’ll end up in the evening—it depends on the wind, encounters, etc. ...
Luckily, I have a Kabyle friend as a neighbor who provided me with an accommodation certificate, and I managed to get my visa—but only for one month, even though I’d requested three.
I was able to visit only the northern third of Algeria (due to lack of time), from the Moroccan border to the Tunisian one, without following this law (precise itinerary) and by "bending the rules" thanks to tips on how to bypass them.
Over the course of this month-long trip, covering about 5,000 km, I was only checked three times.
As for my "claims" about the entire southern region—Tamanrasset, Djanet, Hoggar, Tassili, etc.—they’re simply what the passport officer at the Algerian consulate in Bordeaux told me.
No visa for independent travelers in this area, except for those on organized tours, and he made it clear that there would ALWAYS be supervision—a minimum of a guide (probably some kind of security agent?), a gendarme, police officer, or military personnel—and at my expense (food, accommodation, etc.). Not an option for me.
I’m not in the habit of making things up, and your judgment of my statements might be a bit malicious, but I’ll let it slide.
I’d advise you to go to the consulate to verify what I’ve said, unless there are new, more flexible laws—which I highly doubt.
Could you also kindly tell me what methods you’ve used to travel to this region of Algeria?
I’m heading back this year and, given my know-how for wandering just about anywhere, I plan to at least cover the Central Third (south of Béchar, Timimoun, etc.) and push toward the Southeast and that stunning region.
Véra béné.
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
Hi there,
What you're saying is partly true for people traveling with their own car, even if it's not the case for the military escort.
If you come with your own vehicle all the way to Djanet, you should be able to get there without any issues (we talked to bikers who did it from Algiers), though you’ll pass through a few checkpoints.
However, to go into the Tadrart, you’ll need to be accompanied by a guide with their 4×4, just like everyone else ;)
But there’s really no military escort in that area—at least not so far.
The situation in Tamanrasset is different because the region is less secure.
By the way, we still travel mostly by public transport or car rental in Europe, but sometimes, like during treks to remote places or in the Tadrart, we obviously have to hire a guide.
We also need to consider Franco-Algerian relations, which have been deteriorating since November 2024—will the visa-on-arrival for French travelers in southern Algeria still be available in the future?
Okay, and thanks for these really useful details.
For the past fifteen years or so, I’ve mostly spent my winters traveling all over—especially Morocco, crisscrossing it in every direction; Mauritania; and Senegal.
The info about motorcyclists confirms that I can indeed do what I want, wandering around like last time, while still respecting road checks just like in Morocco, which was my plan.
You didn’t mention what method you used for this trip.
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
Hey,
Your camper van reminds me of 9 months in West Africa with the same vehicle, though that was a while ago (2007).🙂. We actually wanted to head back through Algeria but never got past Niger because of the Tuareg rebellion in the north.
I’ve always wanted to ride through Algeria by motorcycle, but the paperwork, France-Algeria relations, and uncertainty about accessible and secure zones discouraged me.
You hear all kinds of things about the possibility of traveling to the south with your own vehicle.
I’m really interested in your experience!
My experience was solely based on the fact that I could only get my visa for myself and my VW with an Accommodation Certificate from an Algerian living in Algeria.
Unfortunately, it was limited to 1 month, so it was clear I’d have to stay for the entire duration of the visa.
Another VW van traveler gave me the tip.
Once I arrived, there were very few road checks—something I can confirm—and each time, no issues with the Accommodation Certificate.
So I traveled around the northern third of the country for a month.
I was also able to camp in my VW almost every night.
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
I rode my motorcycle through the northeastern quarter of Algeria (as far as Ghardaïa) in April 2023.
I can confirm what Lagardevicto said about police checks and the possibility of wild camping.
For my visa, I dealt with the consulate in Grenoble, and they didn’t ask me any questions about my itinerary. Given the recent events, things may have changed since then.
Absolutely!!!
I think the officer at the passport counter makes up their own rules, as is often the case in the Maghreb with pretty much all authorities (police, gendarmerie, mokadem, etc.).
Based on over 15 years of experience with every stay (always at least 3 months).
It’s part of the charm of these countries!!
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
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Merci
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques