How about Algeria and a return to the Tassili n’Ajjer?
This part of the Sahara is arguably one of the most beautiful deserts on the planet for its diversity and is accessible to everyone.
The vastness of the black rock forests and ochre dunes is complemented by the intimacy of the Djanet oasis, the heart of the Tuareg country, and the mineral memory of the Erg Admer, which bears traces of prehistoric human activity. Camping under the Milky Way, suspended in a sky of forgotten purity, adds another dimension to this rare journey.
Don’t forget—unless recent laws have changed—that the entire region, including Hoggar, Tassili, Djanet, and Tamanrasset, is off-limits for solo travel, whether you're on foot or with a personal vehicle.
Visits are only allowed when properly supervised by a military or police escort, so you’ll need to arrange this in advance or go through a tour operator, who will also be closely escorted.
All independent travel, with full freedom, is prohibited.
Good luck!
What you're saying is false: we spent 10 days around Djanet in December 2024 and I didn’t see any police escort... nowhere, with no group of travelers. It’s only between Tamanrasset Airport and the city of Tamanrasset that we had this escort.
Where did you get this information? Have you just returned from the Algerian Sahara?
Be careful not to spread misinformation......
After multiple transactions with the Bordeaux consulate agent, I was only able to obtain a one-month visa for my trip spanning November and December 2023, instead of the three months I requested.
I should mention that for all the countries I’ve visited, I’ve never used a "tour operator" and have always traveled independently—either with my own vehicle throughout Europe (including Ukraine, and even two months in Iceland in a 2CV Citroën in 1965), or by renting a vehicle, or more rarely by public transport.
When I applied for the visa, the clerk at the Bordeaux consulate clearly outlined the rules for independent travel with my own vehicle (for 35 years, it’s been the same little VW Transporter T3 camper, my avatar).
First, a day-by-day breakdown of each stage with proof of paid hotel reservations, which would have been impossible for me since I almost never know exactly where I’ll end up in the evening—it depends on the wind, encounters, etc. ...
Luckily, I have a Kabyle friend as a neighbor who provided me with an accommodation certificate, and I managed to get my visa—but only for one month, even though I’d requested three.
I was able to visit only the northern third of Algeria (due to lack of time), from the Moroccan border to the Tunisian one, without following this law (precise itinerary) and by "bending the rules" thanks to tips on how to bypass them.
Over the course of this month-long trip, covering about 5,000 km, I was only checked three times.
As for my "claims" about the entire southern region—Tamanrasset, Djanet, Hoggar, Tassili, etc.—they’re simply what the passport officer at the Algerian consulate in Bordeaux told me.
No visa for independent travelers in this area, except for those on organized tours, and he made it clear that there would ALWAYS be supervision—a minimum of a guide (probably some kind of security agent?), a gendarme, police officer, or military personnel—and at my expense (food, accommodation, etc.). Not an option for me.
I’m not in the habit of making things up, and your judgment of my statements might be a bit malicious, but I’ll let it slide.
I’d advise you to go to the consulate to verify what I’ve said, unless there are new, more flexible laws—which I highly doubt.
Could you also kindly tell me what methods you’ve used to travel to this region of Algeria?
I’m heading back this year and, given my know-how for wandering just about anywhere, I plan to at least cover the Central Third (south of Béchar, Timimoun, etc.) and push toward the Southeast and that stunning region.
Véra béné.
Hi there,
What you're saying is partly true for people traveling with their own car, even if it's not the case for the military escort.
If you come with your own vehicle all the way to Djanet, you should be able to get there without any issues (we talked to bikers who did it from Algiers), though you’ll pass through a few checkpoints.
However, to go into the Tadrart, you’ll need to be accompanied by a guide with their 4×4, just like everyone else ;)
But there’s really no military escort in that area—at least not so far.
The situation in Tamanrasset is different because the region is less secure.
By the way, we still travel mostly by public transport or car rental in Europe, but sometimes, like during treks to remote places or in the Tadrart, we obviously have to hire a guide.
We also need to consider Franco-Algerian relations, which have been deteriorating since November 2024—will the visa-on-arrival for French travelers in southern Algeria still be available in the future?
Okay, and thanks for these really useful details.
For the past fifteen years or so, I’ve mostly spent my winters traveling all over—especially Morocco, crisscrossing it in every direction; Mauritania; and Senegal.
The info about motorcyclists confirms that I can indeed do what I want, wandering around like last time, while still respecting road checks just like in Morocco, which was my plan.
You didn’t mention what method you used for this trip.
Hey,
Your camper van reminds me of 9 months in West Africa with the same vehicle, though that was a while ago (2007).🙂. We actually wanted to head back through Algeria but never got past Niger because of the Tuareg rebellion in the north.
I’ve always wanted to ride through Algeria by motorcycle, but the paperwork, France-Algeria relations, and uncertainty about accessible and secure zones discouraged me.
You hear all kinds of things about the possibility of traveling to the south with your own vehicle.
I’m really interested in your experience!
My experience was solely based on the fact that I could only get my visa for myself and my VW with an Accommodation Certificate from an Algerian living in Algeria.
Unfortunately, it was limited to 1 month, so it was clear I’d have to stay for the entire duration of the visa.
Another VW van traveler gave me the tip.
Once I arrived, there were very few road checks—something I can confirm—and each time, no issues with the Accommodation Certificate.
So I traveled around the northern third of the country for a month.
I was also able to camp in my VW almost every night.
I rode my motorcycle through the northeastern quarter of Algeria (as far as Ghardaïa) in April 2023.
I can confirm what Lagardevicto said about police checks and the possibility of wild camping.
For my visa, I dealt with the consulate in Grenoble, and they didn’t ask me any questions about my itinerary. Given the recent events, things may have changed since then.
Absolutely!!!
I think the officer at the passport counter makes up their own rules, as is often the case in the Maghreb with pretty much all authorities (police, gendarmerie, mokadem, etc.).
Based on over 15 years of experience with every stay (always at least 3 months).
It’s part of the charm of these countries!!
We’re planning a trip to Egypt from January 21 to 28, 2027.
J21 – Arrival in Cairo at 6 PM
V22 – Visit the Pyramids
S23 – Early flight to Aswan, visit Aswan
D24 – Visit Aswan, depart mid-afternoon for Abu Simbel
L25 – Morning visit to Abu Simbel, return to Aswan. Is it possible to go all the way to Luxor the same day? Private driver between Aswan and Luxor
M26 – Visit Luxor
M27 – Visit Luxor
J28 – Early flight to Cairo, arrive around 9–10 AM, head back into the city to see 1 or 2 museums (probably just 1 due to time), then flight to Lyon at 7 PM
Does this itinerary seem realistic to you? Does it cover the highlights?
During our trip to Egypt at the end of January, beginning of February, we plan to visit the White Desert and nearby oases for 3 to 4 days, starting from Cairo.
If my initial agency searches weren't conclusive, I now have a "too many options" situation.
Here’s an alphabetical list of my first findings.
If you’ve had any experience (good or bad) with any of these agencies in the White Desert:
Hello, my husband and I will be in Egypt this coming November. Cairo seems more challenging to explore without a guide, and we’ll be there for 3 full days. Would anyone have the name of a guide?
Thanks!
Hi
It's hard to tell from Maps or anything else whether the road along the Tessaout is fully paved from Amezri all the way to the junction with the road connecting Demnate to Ouarzazate (RN23).
Thanks for your replies!
Herviche
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi there!
I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker.
Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore?
I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky...
Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination!
Laurence
Hi, I’m planning a 10-day trip to Morocco starting on 12/30 with my parents, and I’d love your thoughts on the itinerary. Since I’m traveling with my parents, who are 78, I’m trying to keep train rides between cities short. I’d like to start with 4 days in FES (with Meknès nearby), then head to Casablanca for 2 days, and finish with 4 days in Marrakech, including a day trip or overnight stay in Essaouira. Thanks for your input!
During our road trip in Morocco in November/December, we’re planning to spend a night at the Hassilabied dunes around November 10th.
We don’t want to sleep in a camp, go on a camel trek, or do a 4x4 tour—we just want to stay right at the foot of the dunes so we can walk around on our own, on foot, at sunrise and sunset. It seems like Hassilabied is better located for this (closer to the dunes) than Merzouga.
Do you know of any clean accommodation with hot water, not too rustic but not too "bling-bling" either, and—most importantly—ideally located right in front of the dunes?
Thanks so much for your tips!
Fran
Hi, we're looking for a guide to show us around Essaouira.
We're 11 adults and don't want to go through an agency. If you have a contact to help us discover this city, that would be great!
Thanks
We're heading to Egypt in a few days, inspired by many of your travel journals (thanks especially to Franck!).
We’ll spend a short day exploring Cairo before an evening departure, with our luggage in tow. We’re traveling light, but it’s still not very practical...
Does anyone know if baggage storage/lockers are easy to find, and if so, do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!
I’m currently planning several trips to Morocco (Marrakech, Draa Valley, Merzouga) and I’m wondering about the reliability of data connections outside major urban centers.
Here’s what I’ve observed on the ground so far:
- In cities (Marrakech, Agadir, Fez), 4G is excellent, including in the medina riads.
- On the Tizi n'Tichka road and toward Ouarzazate, coverage remains decent, with a few dead spots here and there.
- In Saharan areas (Merzouga, Chegaga), the connection becomes patchy: some camps get great reception, others none at all.
My specific questions:
1) On your recent trips, which operator (Maroc Telecom, inwi, Orange) gave you the best coverage in the Atlas and Sahara?
2) Have international eSIMs seemed as reliable as a local Moroccan SIM, or have you noticed a difference in speed in rural areas?
3) While trekking or driving a 4x4 in the desert, have you come across completely dead zones despite theoretical coverage?
I’m happy to share my own coverage notes if it helps, and I’ll gladly answer any questions about Morocco—I know it well.
I'm looking for a travel companion for a road trip in southern Morocco at the end of March 2027.
Duration: 15 days.
Departure from Marrakech.
Car rental and Airbnb accommodation.
Budget: 1200 €.
Itinerary to plan together
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Where to go in 2025?
