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From Costa Rica to Suriname, a travel report
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
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Transport from Bahia to Morro and then from Boipeba to Bahia
Hi there!

I’m heading to Morro de São Paulo in the first half of September.

I’ll spend a day in Bahia and then take the fast ferry to Morro from the Terminal Turístico Náutico. I’ve heard this ferry can be canceled depending on sea conditions. Locals from Bahia, can you tell me if cancellations are common in early September or if it’s usually not a big deal?

After Morro, I’ll spend a few days in Boipeba.

My question is about the return trip to Bahia to catch my flight home.

Is it better to go back through Morro to take the ferry in the opposite direction, or can I leave directly from Boipeba to Bahia?

I want to avoid long trips and bus rides.

If there’s no way around a road trip, I could take a taxi, Uber, or something similar.

Obrigado pela ajuda for helping me optimize my route: Bahia → Morro / Boipeba → Bahia! :)
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Which direction should I take for the Salta–Mendoza loop from and back to Buenos Aires?
Hi everyone,

I’m planning a trip to Argentina in February. I’ll be starting from Buenos Aires and want to do a loop that goes through Salta and Mendoza before returning to Buenos Aires. I’m still undecided on the direction: • Buenos Aires → Mendoza → Salta → Buenos Aires or • Buenos Aires → Salta → Mendoza → Buenos Aires.

I plan to explore each region, alternating between buses and a rental car.

In your opinion, which direction makes more sense for this itinerary (climate, roads, logistics, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for your tips! !
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Credit cards for car rentals in Chile
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.

My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.

How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?

In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?

Thanks for your help!
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Feedback on my Chile travel itinerary
Hi everyone!

I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!

1-Flight to Santiago

2-Explore Santiago

3-Explore Santiago

4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña

5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)

6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)

7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna

8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto

9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car

10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni

13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night

14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena

15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)

16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory

17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)

18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)

19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco

20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón

21-Villarrica Volcano

22-Parque Huerquehue

23-Activities on-site

24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there

25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site

26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?

27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?

28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro

29-Explore Chiloé

30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas

31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)

32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)

33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén

34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?

35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique

36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo

37-Hike Cerro Castillo

38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo

39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores

40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities

41-Drive to Cochrane

42-Parque Patagonia

43-Drive to Chile Chico

44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car

45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city

46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales

47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)

50-Drive to Punta Arenas

51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)

52-Explore Buenos Aires

53-Explore Buenos Aires

54-Explore Buenos Aires

55-Flight back to France
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Peru Trip
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort. Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site. Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life. Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
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Patagonia Itinerary
Hi there,

I’m about to fulfill a dream that includes a trip to Patagonia between October and December 2026. I’ll be traveling solo.

My plan: - Take a boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (4-5 days) - Torres del Paine National Park (2-3 days) - Bus from Puerto Natales to Ushuaïa (1-2 days) - Exploring around Ushuaïa (3-4 days) - Cruise from Ushuaïa to Punta Arenas (Oct 31 - Nov 4) - Rent a vehicle and head back up to Puerto Montt by around December 10, which is about 35 days total, via Los Glaciares, El Chaltén, Patagonia NP, Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Bahía Exploradores, Cerro Castillo NP, Coyhaique, Queulat NP, Chaitén, Pumalín NP, and Hornopirén NP.

My goal is to enjoy nature and do some hiking.

I’ll be in Torres del Paine around October 20—is the weather manageable for day hikes at that time?

30-35 days from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt? That’s about 3,600 km. Is this timeframe doable to enjoy the scenery without rushing? If I arrive in the north earlier, it’s no big deal—I’ll just explore more spots above Puerto Montt.

Now, about the vehicle... I’m torn between a car + tent (regular car with a tent on top) and a small van. Is this enough for the Carretera Austral or unpaved roads? Or would a 4x4 be better? I’m not an experienced 4x4 driver—I’ve only driven occasionally to give the main driver a break on easy sections. A van is tempting for the comfort. Are there any rental options for slightly modified cars or ones where you can sleep, like a Kangoo?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on my itinerary and advice on the vehicle!
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Airport transfer in Bogota
Hi everyone, I just got back from a trip to Colombia and wanted to share my experience with you—maybe it’ll help some of you out. I met a French guy living in Bogota who offers airport transfer services, so you can arrive with total peace of mind and confidence. He’s really friendly, punctual, and can even drive you around for your sightseeing trips in Bogota. He’s just starting out, and I promised I’d mention him, so here it is! Have a great day.
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Safety in Colombia
Hi everyone, we’re planning to spend 2 months in Colombia (February–March), and the current events have us wondering about safety. Do you have any updates, or have you just come back that might reassure us? Thanks!
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Trip to the Amazon
Hi everyone, I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus. I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum. After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest. I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby. If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them. Have a great day, everyone.
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French-speaking guide in Buenos Aires
Hi, We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture? Thanks
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Back from my Bolivia itinerary
Hey everyone,

I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.

I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.

Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.

After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.

The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.

I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋

Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.

If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin
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Cananeia and PETAR Regions
Hi there! I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes... I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area. Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities? Thanks in advance! Best, Olivier 🌍
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Salvador da Bahia Carnival 2026
Here’s what a lot of you are looking for: the full lineup for the Salvador da Bahia Carnival 2026:

Salvador Carnival 2026 Schedule

(turn on your Goggol auto-translate 😁)

Tropical greetings from Salvador,

@ivanbahiaguide

Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years now 😆🇧🇷
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Colombia Road Trip: Itinerary and Safety
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?

Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):

29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.

So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
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Feedback on Northeast Brazil itinerary in February
Hello,

We’re leaving on February 19th for 13 days in the Northeast of Brazil, with my husband and our two kids (19 and 17). Here’s our itinerary: We’ll arrive in Fortaleza and stay in a guesthouse for 3 nights. Then we’ll hit the road with a private driver, heading to Pipa via the beach of Ponta do Mel, passing through Galinhos, São Miguel, and Natal.

Do you think this is a good itinerary?

Initially, I was planning to go from São Luís to Fortaleza (Lençóis Maranhenses...), but I was advised against it since it’s not really the season and the dunes and lagoons would’ve been empty. I can’t change the itinerary now, but I’m a bit worried I’ll be less impressed by this one. I’d love to know if it’s still worth it?

Thanks in advance!
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Looking for a car rental in Calama
Hi, we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general. For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges. Thanks in advance. Raf.
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Patagonia cruise: what equipment to bring?
Hi, I’ve booked a cruise on the Stella Australis for early February 2026. Departure from Punta Arenas, arrival in Ushuaia in 5 days with 4 nights on board, and stops (zodiac landings). Has anyone already done this cruise or hung out… way down there? What I’m wondering is what kind of clothes to bring, since I’ll need to gear up. Thanks in advance for your tips. Xabi.
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Exchanging Money in Argentina
I’m heading to Argentina for a month in September. Any tips on exchanging money? Can you still exchange currency on the street like before the political events? Thanks for your great tips
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Planning a circuit + flights in Brazil
Hi everyone, Our travel plans to Brazil in October are moving forward. Now we're looking for the best way to put it all together. Starting from Montpellier, probably connecting through CDG, arriving in Salvador de Bahia, stopping in Belo Horizonte, then a flight to Rio, and the return trip. How can we manage to finalize such a circular flight? Thanks in advance for your tips. Best, Serge
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Trip report: Argentina’s Northwest
hi everyone, I’m just back from a 5-week trip to Argentina’s Northwest and San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. This was my second visit to the area—20 years apart—and my third trip to Argentina overall. still just as stunning! this time I explored the El Peñón and Antofagasta de la Sierra region in Catamarca province; I can’t recommend it enough. the road from Cafayate is good—easy in a Renault Logan—and once you’re there you’ve got 4x4 excursions and hikes. way fewer tourists than around Salta, and the landscapes are totally different. happy travels!
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Manaus: walks, sightseeing, guide
Hello, I’m currently in Belém (Brazil) and I’m planning to take a boat to Manaus (I’ll first go to Santarém in 3 days). I’d love to get some info and contacts in Manaus for hiking, canoe trips, and more. Thanks a bunch!
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Jaguar Safari - The Pantanal
Hi everyone,

I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!
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Issue with Bolivian Tourist Visa
Hi everyone, actually I have a 6-month tourist visa for Bolivia, but a friend is telling me I can’t enter Bolivia with this visa. I don’t understand why—he says I need a transit visa instead. Could someone please clarify this for me? I’m really confused.
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Which currency should we bring to Argentina?
Hi everyone! My partner and I are heading to Argentina for a 3-week trip at the end of January, and we’d love to know which of these options is best: - Exchanging euros to pesos directly once we’re there - Exchanging euros to USD here in France and bringing the USD to swap for pesos as soon as we arrive in Argentina, since we’ve seen a lot of advice about bringing USD.

Another question: how much cash should we bring for 3 weeks in Argentina?

Thanks so much for your help! Looking forward to your tips! Yannick
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Overnight buses in Colombia
Hi, I read on a blog that for long overnight trips, there’s a "cama" category and even "cama VIP". I’m planning a Santa Marta/Bucaramanga route, but I can’t find this option on the bus company websites. Has anyone already done this route, and under what conditions? Thanks for your feedback!
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Problem with Sixt in Chile
Hi, I booked a car with Sixt from Temuco to Puerto Montt from 01/27/25 to 02/17/25. On Saturday, I got an email canceling the reservation. But the reservation is still showing up on the website (as of this morning at 9:30 AM). Can’t reach Sixt Chile. Sixt France is also in the dark (they can’t contact Chile either). Has anyone heard anything about this?
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Meeting a Mapuche community
Hi, I’d like to meet a Mapuche community in the Lake District during my upcoming trip to Chile. I’ve been given several offers, but the prices are way too high (nearly 1100 € for 2 days/3 nights). Even though the advertised program sounds interesting, I’m hoping there are other ways to connect with a Mapuche community. I’m open to any ideas on the topic! Best, Jamet JC
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