Bonjour à tous,
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Bon voilà, j'ai fait mon circuit en Zambie pour cet été : Vic-Falls, Kafue, Bangweulu (à la recherche du bec en sabot), j'avais prévu ensuite de redescende sur le lac Kariba, du côté de Sinasongwe, mais le prestataire ferme son établissement ;-(
Je me retrouve donc à Bangweulu avec 6 nuits à combler avant de retourner à Victoria Falls.
A partir de là, en revenant de Bangweulu, plus ou moins près, il y a plusieurs idées : North Luangua, South Luangua, Lower Zambezi, Kariba, Luangua Village, ou retour sur Kafue, le long du Zambeze Nord-Ouest ???
Je recherche les animaux bien sur (pas forcément les lions) et surtout les oiseaux pour faire des photos +++ ...!
Quelqu'un aurait il une idée à me conseiller ???
(Nous serons en 4x4 équipé, évidemment... 😛)
Merci pour vos idées..
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
De manière plutôt intéressée, j'aurais tendance à te dire : allez vers le Nord-Ouest et le haut Zambèze, comme ça on aurait des infos de première main sur ce coin méconnu... 😛
Peut-être en redescendant par Liuwa Plains. Mais 6 jours ce n'est vraiment pas beaucoup pour ça.
De l'autre côté tu connais...
Vous pourriez traverser North Luangwa, descendre le long de la rivière et aller faire une bise aux gens de Kawasa.
Ou bien aller jusqu'au lac Malawi que tu es le seul de vous deux à connaître. Mais là encore, 6 jours c'est bien court.
Ou bien remplacer l'île de Sinazongwe par une autre vers Siavonga ?
il ya quelques annees j'avais fait la partie Ouest de la Zambie.
En particulier toute la remontee via les chutes de Sioma qui sont une merveille.
Un debit incroyable, une cataracte en cercle, des iles au milieu qu'on rejoint en pirogue avec l'aide des habitants du village.
Sans Vic falls ce seraient elles les reines.... mais il y a.
Loutres, oiseaux, leopards, hippotragues a l'etat sauvage !!!! si si
Le dernier gars qui etait venu voir les chutes etait passé 20 jours avant nous (il y a un petit carnet rempli par une dame des parcs nationaux).
Je lui avais demandé le prix de la visite elle m'avait repondu "vous paierez la prochaine fois" J'espere qu'elle n'attend pas encore.
Pas un touriste.
Par contre les pistes sont un cauchemard j'y ai casse le pot, un amortisseur, fendu le reservoir, arraché une aile etc....
9h00 pour faire 80 km.
Et pas la peine d'esperer de l'aide des gens du coin.
Il y a avait par moment des ornieres si hautes qu'on ne pouvait plus ouvrir les portes.
Est-ce toujours comme ça ? La Zambie n'est en tout cas pas réputée pour la qualité de son réseau routier. Surtout dans des coins peu visités.
On traverse des petits royaumes qui vous font payer un droit d'entrée sur le territoire du roi
Nous y avions été, car deux fois par an le plus grand roi de la région (debut et fin de saison des pluies) transfert toute sa cour dans sa residence d'été (ou d'hiver) sur pirogues immenses : chevaux, céréales, maisons... tout est entassé.
C'est tellement spectaculaire que les journaux en parlent et que la basse populasse se masse sur les rives pour voir passer son altesse.
Malheureusement la date n'est jamais fixe.
Mais c'est un spectacle rare.
Je me suis toujours juré d'y retourner et puis quand je pense a la piste je me trouve d'autres destinations.
Mais si tu as du temps, simplement remonter jusqu'à Sioma c'est magnifique, et question oiseaux tu seras servi.
J'attends avec impatience ton carnet sur Bengwelu que je ne connais pas alors tu vas surement me donner envie.
Les choses ont bien changé du côté de Sioma Falls !
Il y a une belle route goudronnée chinoise toute neuve, un parc national avec une clôture tout autour toute neuve, et les gens du coin n'ont plus le droit de faire passer le fleuve sur leurs pirogues. Comem j'avais ce genre d'info qu'on pouvait traverser avec les gens du coin, nous avons tenté le coup. Nous nous sommes fait bien engueuler et virer par un ranger. Du coup, nous n'avons pas vu ces chutes...
Mais c'est vrai que passer par le Kafue et redescendre par Mongu et Sioma est aussi une option très défendable ! Mais je crois bien que Franck le fait en montant à l'aller...
Des ornières, pas de touriste, des chutes d'eau... et des oiseaux +++
Il en fallait pas plus pour attirer ma convoitise.
Merci Mannu, c'est quand même cool d'avoir un éclaireur "sur place".
Tu y étais juste avant ou juste après la saison des pluies.
Tu penses que c'est plus accessible en Juillet Aout ?
Il y a la M9 qui vient de Lusaka jusqu'à Mungu (Tar road ?) puis la M10 vers le Sud (Tar Raod ?), puis traversée du Zambèze à Kalangola pour rejoindre la river Ouest, je suppose par un bac ?
Tu te souviens si tu as campé (ou lodgé) près de Sioma Falls ?
Encore mercisssss Emmanuel
(PS : j'espère que tout le monde va bien chez toi ;-))
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
bonjour, je suis passé à Sioma fall l’été dernier, il y a un petit camp aménagé juste à coté, il est géré par les habitants tout comme la traversée en pirogue pour les chutes qui sont spectaculaires et méritent vraiment de passer par la bas, le campement est très agréable pour une ou deux nuit et en plus ça va directement à la communauté et pas à un groupe privé. Par contre en venant du nord par Mongu après Senanga il ne faut pas continué par la route neuve en effet le pont pour franchir le Zambese n'est toujours pas fait, à partir de Senanga il faut prendre la piste en direction du "ponton" en fait un bac ou bien remonter par le sud depuis Sesheke ce qui est beaucoup plus facile quand on est à Livingstone.
Patrice
nous y etions en Octobre.
On avait campé à Sioma (le village) en fait on avait garé la voiture et planté la tente.
Si j'en juge par le dernier message on peut donc toujours prendre des pirogues pour aller sur les iles au centre des chutes.
Je vais essayé de retrouver des photos.
Je sais que nous avions fait un film sur la traversée en pirogue car j'etais persuadé qu'on allait tous finir à l'eau.
La pirogue n'avait pas de fond, le gars avait une branche en guise de rame. On ne passait que un par un avec lui.
Il remontait sur le bord de la rivière comme un forcené puis se lançait au milieu du courant (énorme) qui le ramenait en aval et sur une ile.
J'ai rarement eu autant la trouille.
Depuis les iles la vue est incroyable, on est cerné par le fleuve de toute part et par la chute en demi cercle, le courant est monstrueux. On y voit des loutres, des oiseaux, des reptiles...
A l'epoque pas de route goudronnée pour y accéder. On avait rencontré des Sud af qui faisaient demi tour, ils n'en pouvaient plus. Ce n'était pas technique mais cassant, une succession de pierres qui t'empechaient de rouler. C'etait au pas pendant des heures. Je me souviens même que les enfants marchaient à côté de la voiture pendant qu'on roulait.
Quand je parle d'ornieres (juste sur un passage) c'etait tellement enorme qu'on aurait dit que quelqu'un avait creusé une tranchée.
Des murs de chaque côté de la voiture et la piste etait unique. Ne connaissant pas la longueur on se lance dedans et au bout d'un moment on se dit, et si quelqu'un arrive en face ??? Ah non c'est a vous de reculer, Oui mais nous on a deja fait 2 km, et nous 45 !!!!! Heureusement on est arrivé au bout sans croiser personne. D'ailleurs a part les sud Af nous n'avions vu aucune voiture.
A un moment une grande montée toute en sable. Je prends de l'elan, de la vitesse (bonjour les degats sur les pierres) au milieu de la montee, gros choc. Une pierre sous le sable, roue crevée, jante abimée, reservoir félé, essence qui coule sur le pot...la totale. Un gars passe a pied, on lui demande si il y a un village quelque part, pas un mot, pas un regard il continue sa route.
Aprés Sioma (plus haut) c'est aussi sympa. Mais les chutes sont vraiment à ne pas rater.
En 2012, on trouvait effectivement toujours ce genre de pirogues, d'ailleurs deux d'entre nous avaient déjà traversé dans ces conditions très précaires quand ils se sont fait virer par le fameux ranger !
Je crois que nous n'avons pas eu de chance d'être tombés sur lui. Il y avait une chance sur je ne sais combien...
Les traversées "touristiques" doivent maintenant théoriquement passer par l'accueil du parc national dans un bâtiment tout neuf.
Il nous faudra revenir aussi pour les voir, moi aussi tout ça me donne envie...
Et maintenant de Katima Mulilo ça peut se faire en excursion journée !
Le nouveau pont (pas encore construit) qui terminera la route Sesheke / Mongu se trouvera juste au Nord de Sioma Falls. Pour l'instant il y a là un ferry qu'Eric a pris l'an dernier.
En 2012 on passait toujours par le ferry plus au Nord, à Sitoti. Et sur l'autre rive, la route sur une vingtaine de kilomètres à travers la plaine inondable du Zambèze n'en avait effectivement que le nom : complètement défoncée, ponts écroulés...
Au dernières nouvelles, il y a quelques mois, le ferry de Sitoti fonctionnait toujours, mais jusqu'à quand ? À la moindre panne on peut douter qu'il sera réparé.
J'y serai en Aout, mais effectivement, j'ai l impression que la route entre Mongu et Senonga est effectivement goudronnée mais bien proche du Zambèze... s'il y a des inondations la route sera sans doute submergée...
On verra bien
Bon, comme tu es "voisin", si tu es par là aux alentours du 10 - 12 Août, on fera un braii sur une des iles "inaccessibles" ..;-)
à bientôt
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
bonjour,
à partir de Senanga il faut prendre la piste en direction du "ponton" en fait un bac
Patrice
Merci Patrice.
C'est effectivement ce qui me semble voir sur Google Earth.
Tu y étais à quelle époque ?
Comment était la piste entre Senanga et Kalangola-Bac ?
Elle semble passer très proche du Zambèze. Inondée ? défoncée ?
Aurais tu une trace GPS ?
merci encore Patrice
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Mais c'est vrai que passer par le Kafue et redescendre par Mongu et Sioma est aussi une option très défendable ! Mais je crois bien que Franck le fait en montant à l'aller...
Ah merci Pierre... il me semblait bien !!!
Non non à l 'aller, je monte par la T1 et je traverse Kafue Sud - Nord.
merci à vous
à suivre...
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Comment était la piste entre Senanga et Kalangola-Bac ?
Elle semble passer très proche du Zambèze. Inondée ? défoncée ?
C'est celle dont je parle plus haut. Et aussi peut-être celle dont parle Emmanuel.
Une vingtaine de kms pas faciles. Quelques villages inaccessibles pendant la saison des pluies. Mais il n'y aura pas d'eau à l'époque où vous serez dans le coin.
Kalangola / Sitoti, deux noms pour le même ferry. C'est celui qui risque de s'arrêter si tout le trafic passe par la nouvelle route sur la rive Est pour ne traverser qu'à Sioma.
Rive ouest entre Kalangola et Sioma, c'est une petite piste africaine sympathique.
Salut, j'y était fin aout, la piste était bonne, je voyageait en stop et le type qui m'a pris en direction de Senanga avait une voiture normale, pas un 4x4, et ça a passé sans trop de soucis.
Salut, j'y était fin aout, la piste était bonne, je voyageait en stop et le type qui m'a pris en direction de Senanga avait une voiture normale, pas un 4x4, et ça a passé sans trop de soucis.
Merci Patrice, tu me rassure un peu.. ;-)
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Salut Francky Pierre et les autres,
Je viens de suivre votre conversation avec intérêt car je serais dans la région Zambienne fin mai début juin donc j'aurais des nouvelles fraîche à vous donner, voici mon itinéraire provisoire en Zambie: katima mulilo, Sioma, kafue, Lower zambezi, South luangwa, Bangweulu, et direction Tanzanie, voila les amis, départ la semaine prochaine pour Johanessburg le 23 avril, quelqu'un sait-il ou se trouve ce bon Eric car je n'ai pas de nouvelles
A bientôt
Claude
Salut Francky Pierre et les autres,
Je viens de suivre votre conversation avec intérêt car je serais dans la région Zambienne fin mai début juin donc j'aurais des nouvelles fraîche à vous donner, voici mon itinéraire provisoire en Zambie: katima mulilo, Sioma, kafue, Lower zambezi, South luangwa, Bangweulu, et direction Tanzanie, voila les amis, départ la semaine prochaine pour Johanessburg le 23 avril, quelqu'un sait-il ou se trouve ce bon Eric car je n'ai pas de nouvelles
A bientôt
Claude
Ah bah effectivement, tu pars en éclaireur...
J'attends de tes nouvelles avec impatience.. 😏😏
Bon voyage
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Salut Claude !
Eric est "sur zone", quelque part au Botswana. 😉
Vous allez vers où en tanzanie ensuite ?
Bon voyage !
re,
pour la suite nous devons être à Dar es salaam pour le 25 juin nous revenons en Europe pour un mois c'est la naissance de notre deuxième petite fille (quel bonheur!!) ensuite nous revenons à Dar pour continuer notre voyage, en Tanzanie l'itinéraire serait: Selous, Ruaha NP, Katavi plains NP, Mahale montains NP, Rubondo NP, Serengeti, Tarangire, et direction le Kenya, nous comptons rester environ 3 mois en Afrique de l'est, voila ami les dernières nouvelles.
Merci pour l'info sur Eric je lui ai envoyer un mail il y à une semaine mais pas de réponse, peut-être pas de réseau !
quand sera tu en Afrique ?
il y a plusieurs idées : North Luangua, South Luangua, Lower Zambezi, Kariba, Luangua Village, ou retour sur Kafue, le long du Zambeze Nord-Ouest ???
Salut Franck,
on s'est côtoyé par mail il y a quelques années au sujet de Mafia Island Tanzanie...
Parmi les réponses que tu as eu, et j'ignore si j'arrive un peu tard, mais peu de choses sont annoncées sur le South luanga.
j'y étais en Novembre 2012 durant une période de sécheresse extrême si bien que la rivière Luanga était très basse et du coup concentrait de nombreux animaux. On séjournait à "Croc Valley", c'est pas mal.
à l'époque la route qui menait au parc ( départ de Chipata) était en partie asphaltée, un important tronçon demeurant toujours en travaux...depuis ça a peut être changé.
Le parc à cette époque de l'année était très peu fréquenté, c'est un lieu magique qui mérite le détour...
photos et article sur mon blog: http://marie-alain.blog4ever.com (Rubrique En route 1 (Afrique), Zambie)
Je ne suis pas "un photographe", j'ai un simple petit "coolpix" mais ça donne une idée..
Bonne préparation,
Alain
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!