Je suis à la recherche d'informations sur la sorcellerie et j'aimerais beaucoup recueillir vos témoignages sur le sujet en tant que voyageurs.
Vous en a-t-on beaucoup parlé pendant vos voyages?Y avez vous été confronté directement? Avez vous rencontré des sorciers, des guérisseurs, des mages...?
Je m'interesse particulièrement au Burkina Faso, à la Gambie, la Côte d'Ivoire, le Ghana, le Bénin, le Nigéria et la Côte d'Ivoire mais tout vos témoignages me seront précieux, même s'ils ne concernent pas directement ces pays!
En ce qui me concerne on m'a parlé des voleurs de sexes et des femmes chassées de leurs villages car soupçonnées d'être sorcières lors de mon voyage au Burkina, ça m'a semblé très intéressant donc j'ai décidé de creuser un peu le sujet :-)
Merci d'avance pour vos futures réponses!
Lucile
Bonsoir,
si tu es fan de culture animiste et d'immanquable sorcellerie qui l'accompagne, je te conseille d'étendre tes recherches au pays Dogon. le pregnance animiste fait partie directement du quotidien des villageois : divination, présages, sacrifices, organisation de la société, le tout dans une organisation cosmogonique préservée, même chez les plus jeunes. chacun est détenteur de quelques secrets et la religion musulmane a été adaptée aux pratiques ancestrales.
je n'ai jamais été "ensorcelé" personnellement, mais je dois dire que dans ces contrées où l'accès à la médecine contemporaine est plus que limité, l'utilisation de la médecin traditionnelle, les pratiques divinatoires rythment encore le quotidien des dogons.
Les histoires de voleurs de sexes c'est quelque chose que l'on retrouve dans pas mal de pays visiblement, tout comme la sorcellerie et gare à celui qui en est accusé à tord ou à raison!! Il suffit de lui serrer la main, parfois un seul regard et hop 😮!
Pour avoir vécu au Gabon en brousse , je peux dire que c'est quasiment du quotidien et je l'ai constaté par des personnes que je cotoyais tous les jours, et sur notre concession à l'époque chez notre voisin blanc dont sa copine avait fait venir la sorcière dans sa chambre à son insu(mais on a été au courant de suite avec le gardien tout affolé et la ménagère qui n'osait plus y aller faire le ménage). Mais quand une personne locale proche est touchée il est mieux de ne pas s'en mêler, même si c'est difficile parfois, tous les vieux broussards le disent aussi et puis ce sont des choses qui nous dépassent parfois, qu'on ne sait pas controler, parce qu'on n'a pas tous les éléments. Une fois un vieux blanc de 50 ans d'Afrique, me faisait part de sa ménagère qui était arrivée le matin même le bras gonflé et qui lui faisait part de ses histoires de famille, de ce fait il l'avait renvoyé chez elle en disant :"je veux pas de ces histoires chez moi, tu reviendras quand tu seras guérie".... Et comme il n'y a pas de mort naturelle, ni de maladie ou de probème naturel....En Afrique Centrale (de l'Ouest) la sorcellerie c'est aussi , l'empoisonnement par des plantes...les gens font gaffe à la bouffe, surtout qui fait la bouffe... ou comme les moustaches de panthères coupées finement dans la bouffe c'est radical !! Vaste sujet! Il y a aussi des interdits avec les animaux , certains interdits d'être consommés suivant la personne, des histoires de "doubles", de "vampires", les "génies" etc....
Parfois quand il y a enquête par la police sur un sujet grave où il y a apparement sorcellerie, c'est un autre sorcier qui est chargé de retrouver l'auteur ou le mauvais sorcier .
Les bouquins de Julien Bonhomme sont intéressants , il a justement un bouquin sur les voleurs de sexes.
http://www.scienceshumaines.com/...e-sexe_fr_24751.html
tout à fait d'accord avec la conclusion de choucarde: sujet intrigant et interessant, mais de loin...
La sorcellerie est tout aussi vivante dans les campagnes françaises encore. C'est un sujet qui m'a tjours beaucoup intéressé tant en France ( je suis médecin de campagne ) qu'en Afrique de l'ouest que je connais aussi. Il y a quelques années une jeune universitaire française avait voulu faire une thèse sur la sorcellerie dans la région où je vis. Au bout de quelques mois elle s'est retrouvée avec tellement de problèmes dans sa vie privée quelle a décidé de tout arrêter, faisant un rapprochement entre ses ennuis et sa recherche sur la sorcellerie. Son esprit rationnel n'avait pas resisté. J'ai moi-même, malgré également mon esprit rationnel et scientifique vécu des expériences troublantes
Dans votre quête sachez garder du recul par rapport à tout ce que vous verrez et entendrez si vous voulez en sortir indemne.
A cette condition vous avez un superbe travail de recherche à faire.
Bonjour,
La sorcellerie est un sujet certainement très intéressant, mais avec lequel il faut être très prudent ! Il ne faut pas plaisanter sur ce sujet avec les africains. Il y a certes des superstitions, mais aussi des réalités. Le Vaudou viendrait du sud Bénin.
Ce qui est incontestable, c'est que certaines personnes ont une grande connaissance des propriétés des plantes locales, et notamment de poisons et préparations hallucinogènes plus ou moins toxiques. Ils savent aussi traiter des maladies parfois très efficacement.
Par rapport à la sorcellerie pure, il semble qu'il soit plus facile de faire le mal que le bien ! D'où mon rappel à une grande prudence.
Si tu étais au Burkina, tu aurais pu aller chez les Gourmantchés, au nord-est du pays. Ils ont un système de divination, en lisant dans la terre, qui est très renommé. C'est l'association d'un don et d'une technique. Impressionnant, et efficace !
Salutations
"L'Afrique sans la magie et la sorcellerie ne serait plus l'Afrique!"
C'est vrai aussi, et c'était sans doute encore plus vrai jadis. Vu que ces croyances et rites liés à la nature donnaient une gestion de leur environnement(chasse, pêche, arbre à abattre ou pas etc) qui ma fois était pas mal équilibrée(jusqu'à l'arrivée du fusil) , ça avait son bon côté...Ex : les barrages que les femmes font en foret pour vider un ruisseau et prendre le poisson, elles défont toujours le barrage pour ne pas facher le génie de l'eau et ainsi le cours reprend et y aura toujours du poisson.
ça me fait aussi penser puisque que l'on parlait de plantes et de leurs puissances aussi, que des gens pechent aussi grace à une mixture de feuilles de je ne sais quelles plantes qu'ils versent dans l'eau et hop y a qu'à ramasser!
j'ai vécu deux ans au bénin, et comme je travaillais en permance avec des béninois de toute les regions du bénin j' ai entendu beaucoup d'histoires difficiles à croire pour nous europeens.
Voici deux cas personnellement vécu, au départ de l'histoire c'etait un ensorcelement et un vol d'âme et de sexe, mais en cherchant un peu on trouve d'autres motifs
L'un des cas a été notre piroguier, jeune Béninois sérieux, dynamique et honnête il était utilisé régulièrement par notre corporation pour des visites du village lacustre des Aguégué sur le lac nokoué du coté Porto Novo, un couple d'amis l'avait aidé pour monter sa petite entreprise, il avait des pirogues transport en commun et une pirogue pour les touristes qu'il animait personnellement.
Et un jour on nous annonce : «Casimir le piroguier est mort» on demande de quoi ! La réponse a été «il a été ensorcelé »
Quelque temps après les amis qui l'avaient aidé on voulu récupère l'argent emprunté par Casimir pour l'achat d'un moteur, et là grosse surprise, les barques et les moteurs ont été revendues par la famille et l'argent a disparu. En réalité Casimir a été empoisonné par une de ses tantes qui lui avait demandé de l'argent et il avait refusé.
L'autre une jeune béninoise est décède d'un palus au Togo, la famille fait rapatrier le corps au Bénin
En préparant le corps pour l'enterrement, elle voit une marque au niveau du cœur et une autre entre le nombril et le pubis
La famille porte plainte à la gendarmerie pour vol de l'âme et vol de sexe.
Le procureur a demandé une autopsie, elle sera faite par un médecin légiste et un technicien en identification criminelle de la gendarmerie
En réalité le corps avait reçu plusieurs injections de formoles pour la conservation du corps pour retardé ça décomposition.
ci-joint deux coupures de presse récent parlant de sorcellerie
L'Afrique de ouest et le bénin en particulier est à l'origine du culte du vaudou
Bon travail et prudence (non je rigole)
@+ laurent
"Le plus beau voyage, c'est celui qu'on n'a pas encore fait." (Loick Peyron)
Effectivement j'avais entendu parle de cette peche par les plantes; il semble que ca soit des plantes soporifiques non nocives pour le poisson.
Mais c'est vrai aussi que dans les temps recules les peuples dit sauvages avaient beaucoup plus de savoir spirituels et etaient beaucoup plus en connexion avec la nature. Il en etait de meme avec les ameridiens qui demandaient la permission au frere arbre ou au frere bison de se servir de leur branche ou fourrure.
Il est vrai comme le stipule le post precedent que les plantes sont beaucoup utilisees, mais il n'y a pas que ca et c'est ce qui rend perplexe les esprits cartesiens des occidentaux. Comme je dis dans l'article, on nie ce que l'on ne comprend pas.
A l'inverse, tu as les jardins de Findhorn (Nord Ecosse), ou ils ont plante sur une terre non fertile et ont fait pousse des plantes jusqu'a obtenir un choux de 21kg. Tous les experts restent tres perplexes evidemment et certains parlent de magie, par meconnaissance de la nature.
Oui en fait c'est pas vraiment nocif pour le poisson, ça les anesthésie juste en qq sorte...et de toute évidence pas dangereux pour la consommation ensuite.
J'avais lu le lien sur ton site, je retrouve des mêmes exemples, comme celui aussi de Camboui45 avec le jeune béninois et sa petite entreprise qui est une affaire assez classique. Ses coupures de presses sont pas mal, vu d'ici ça prete à rire pour la plupart mais comme dit plus haut on ne plaisante pas avec ce sujet avec les africains et comment les deux gardiens disent avoir vu la même scène, étaient ils aussi ensorcelés?.... j'ai vu une connaissance se mettre en colère une fois parce que je n'avais pu retenir un sourire alors qu'il m'expliquait le pouvoir d'une plante qui peut faire tomber la pluie sauf sur toi si tu tiens la feuille entre les dents: "oui vous les blancs vous ne savez pas que chez nous il y a des choses très puissantes et des pouvoirs que vous n'avez pas...etc et palabre" très faché...je regrettais de n'avoir pu retenir ce sourire, je ne voulais pas me moquer mais il y avait aussi la façon théatrale de la raconter il faut le dire.
Au Gabon parait il y avait des grands bwitistes qui avaient des dons de télékinésie et lors de grands Bwiti , ils accomplissaient de ces exploits comme de faire tomber inerte un animal d'un arbre par la puissance de l'esprit et du regard.......?
Bonne question! peut etre que les gens se reveillent de leur endormissement dans le materialisme et qu'ils se rendent compte qu'il existe autres choses dans l'univers que les chaines stereo et les tv grands ecrans ou l'on formate le cerveau des populations.
Ca veut dire que le monde change, bonne nouvelle!
Merci à tous pour toutes vos réponses!
En fait j'aurais bien aimé faire des portraits de sorcières et de sorciers, aussi bien des gens que l'on accuse de pratiquer la sorcellerie que des gens qui le revendique. Mon but est de découvrir l'Afrique de l'Ouest par ce sujet là. Je me doutais déjà qu'il fallait être prudente mais après avoir lu vos témoignages encore plus!!
Si vous avez d'autres conseils/idées/histoires je suis preneuse!!!
merci à vous🙂
Lucile
Il y a une chose que tu dois savoir, c'est que tu peux resister a ce genre de fetiche si ton esprit est fort. Les gens faibles degagent tres vite.
Lors d'un conge en france j'ai vu un magnetiseur qui m'a nettoye les differents corps (astral, etherique....) car je suis soumis a beaucoup de maraboutage, comme tous les gens qui derangent et il m'a trouve 24 entites accrochees a tous les corps et m'a dit qu'il etait surpris de voir que j'etais encore en vie avec tout ca.
Generalement tout le monde en a car dans les foules, grands magasins, metro, on en ramasse toujours, mais 3 ou 4, pas 24. Ca prouve qu'on peut faire face si on a le mental qui va avec.
Ensuite ne te lance dans ces histoires qu'avec une personne de confiance qui pourra t'introduire. Quand je dis de confiance c'est que tu peux faire l'objet toi meme de cette experience mais a tes depends et te retrouver depouillee sans avoir compris ce qui t'arrivait.
Le vaudou vient de l'afrique de l'ouest et tu as entendu parle des zombis dans les caraibes.
Ce sont des gens qui sont soumis a l'influence de champignons ou herbes. Ils decedent et sont enterres. Seulement il y a une equipe qui vient les deterrer plus tard, leur donnent l'antidote et les types se reveillent en zombis; ne savent pas qui ils sont ni rien et finissent dans les plantations de canne a sucre; main d'oeuvre pas chere et non revendicante!
Voila tout ce que je peux te dire.
salut mo ije suis au burkina faso et sincerement si vous ne croyez pas c'est pas de votre faute mais si vous voulez revenez au burkina et moi je vous montrerez les coins ou il y'a des sorciers et c'est sans blague car au depart moi je ne croyez jusqu'au jour ou j'ai ete temoin d'un cas mais cela depasse l'imagination. est ce que on vous a parler des feux de sorciers sinon au burkina il y'a un village si vous n'etespas sorcier c'est que vous aller disparaitre
Le sujet est passionnant mais extrêmement dangereux si vous vous laissez persuader de vous y impliquer ! J'ai vécu en Afrique équatoriale de l'Ouest pendant près de 40 ans, ai parcouru la forêt camerounaise, centrafricaine, congolaise et gabonaise, ai entendu de nombreuses histoires mais ne me suis jamais mêlé de ce qui ne me regardais pas...Je suis marié depuis maintenant 37 ans avec une Africaine authentique dont la grand'mère était féticheuse et qui est persuadée que sa soeur aînée est une redoutable sorcière aux pouvoirs malfaisants, responsable de tous les malheurs vrais ou supposés qui l'ont frappée au cours de sa vie. Démêler le vrai du faux ou de l'imaginaire est parfois difficile, mais la société africaine a ses bases dans des croyances et des pratiques traditionnelles dont l'origine se perd dans la nuit des temps. Une femme veut-elle conquérir un homme ? Sorcellerie. Un homme veut-il conquérir une femme ? Sorcellerie. Un personnage veut-il réussir dans une entreprise quelconque ? Sorcellerie. Tout est sujet à manoeuvres sorcières, la vie comme la mort, car jamais la mort n'est considérée comme naturelle, elle ne peut que résulter que de l'action d'un sorcier...payé par quelqu'un. Il y a au Congo-Brazzaville, dans la région de Pointe-Noire, une croyance totale dans l'existence de deux mondes parallèles, le mwiini et le niimbi (en langue vili), le diurne et le nocturne, que certains peuvent visiter à volonté grâce à leurs pouvoirs surnaturels. Quand un événement se produit, la question immédiate est: "c'est diurne ou c'est nocturne ?". A Libreville existe une expression, "se faire taper un fusil nocturne", qui signifie que l'on est visé par un sorcier. Alors restez loin de tout cela...
Qui a été confronté à la sorcellerie ou à l'envoutement à Madagascar? Il paraît que les sorcières, dans certaines régions ne mangent pas de poulet qui est un fétiche: quelqu'un a-t-il connaissance de cela?
Je ne connais pas Madagascar, hélas, mais le poulet est en Afrique la triste victime de beaucoup de rituels sorciers. Est-il consommé ensuite ? Je l'ignore, mais le poulet africain est généralement maigre et tout en muscles, assez peu appétissant. Après une très longue cuisson, il devient consommable et le sorcier mal nourri se laisse peut-être tenter !
je suis moi même sorcier de la savane alors si il t arrive de passer par le pays dogon en avril je te ferai la demonstration mais attention il ya pluisieur type de sorciers
Pour le punir, on le rend laid en faisant pencher à droite ou à gauche leurs lèvres. Voici comment on procède : constituer les éléments suivants : moitié d'une gousse de sô ou congo-sô (isoberlinia dalzielii), plumes tordues sous-traite d'une pintade, d'une poule ou d'un coq (peu importe), racine de manganakièma (pour cette racine, voir dans le Gana, au village de N'diôbougou, dans le bosquet qui se trouve dans cette localité, à côté du grand caïlcédrat, au sud de l'agglomération), racine transversale de n'importe quelle plante. De très bon matin, carboniser le tout et réduire en poudre. Pétrir celle-ci de graisse. Avec un doigt de la main gauche, prendre de la pâte et tracer dans la cosse tendre du sô, en prononçant le nom de l'enfant visé, une ligne longitudinale puis placer le talisman près d'un foyer ardent. La cosse séchant tord à droite ou à gauche et les lèvres de l'ensorcelé suivent le même mouvement.
Antidote : jeter la cosse de sô dans une eau fraîche. L'objet reprend alors sa forme naturelle, les lèvres reviennent à leur position normale.
La personne qui m'a cité ce genre de recettes ne rigolait pas avec ça ! Mais comment vérifier ?
je suis assez rationnel pour ma part et j'ai de sérieux doute quand à la sorcellerie en général.
Enfin, je ne suis pas téméraire non plus... là je fais mon malin car je ne suis pas en Afrique...
Un ami a eu un problème un jour avec un gars qui ne lui rendait pas son argent. Il est allé chez un marabout. L'autre a fait de même. Peut-être c'était le même !?... Du coup, ils y croient tellement que tout ce qui leur arrive dans la vie ne peut que venir de la sorcellerie. Mais finalement, tout s'est arrangé. Ils se sont fait peurs. Ils ont partagé l'argent...
Voila nous sommes 2 (gregory et melanie)enfin 4 avec les sac à dos à partir le 1/12/04 pour 6 mois en afrque le 1er pays sera le cameroun pour 1mois et 15j…
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
