Back from Skoura (Morocco)
by Aichlo
Translated into English.
Original post
A big thank you to the VoyageForum members who shared their experiences with us! We spent 3 wonderful days at "La Kasbah la Palmeraie" in Skoura. Coming from Marrakech (a stunning drive after the Tichka Pass via Telouet and Ait-Benhaddou), our stay at the Palmeraie was pure bliss: Mohammed and Ghizlane’s warm welcome, delicious breakfasts on the terrace overlooking the palm grove (wood-fired bread, honey pancakes made by Ghizlane), and equally delicious and hearty evening meals shared as a family around a cozy fire. We felt right at home and learned so much about the local way of life. The excursions offered were always interesting and off the beaten tourist track—from there, we explored the Dades Valley and Gorges, the Almond Blossom Valley (gorgeous!), and the palm grove. The region is home to magnificent kasbahs, including our hosts’. A different way to "visit" Morocco!
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
No snow, except for the stunning views on the Atlas Mountains, just sunshine and warmth; it felt like the middle of summer! However, the nights are cool, but everywhere we stayed had big fires in the fireplaces in the evenings and extra heaters in the rooms. Have a great trip! It's a wonderful country!
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
For the roads, no problem at all. The main roads are very well maintained; if you take the backroads, make sure to check ahead—you’ll often need a 4x4.
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
From Skoura, there are plenty of lovely walks besides the Dades Valley and gorges, which already take a full day.
We enjoyed strolling through the palm grove, visiting a large Kasbah in Skoura, heading to the almond tree valley (gorgeous this season and no tourists—head toward Toundount north of Skoura), and the village of Boutharar by taking the road starting from El-Kelaâ M'Gouna. A little tip: even if you have a GPS, a good Michelin map bought in France isn’t useless—the GPS doesn’t recognize small roads or tracks.
Happy exploring!
MC
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
no, what do you mean by douars?
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
Yes, the douars are small villages, not municipalities—just villages. The ones I visited in the fall are part of the Skoura municipality but are located about ten kilometers from the center of Skoura. You have to cross the wadis and head toward other palm groves with magnificent kasbahs, gardens, and the mountains in the background.
From Skoura, there are plenty of lovely walks besides the Dades Valley and gorges, which already take a full day.
We enjoyed strolling through the palm grove, visiting a large Kasbah in Skoura, heading to the almond tree valley (gorgeous this season and no tourists, head toward Toundount north of Skoura), and the village of Boutharar by taking the road starting from El-Kelaâ M'Gouna. A little tip: even if you have a GPS, a good Michelin map bought in France isn’t useless—the GPS doesn’t recognize small roads or tracks.
Happy trails!
MC
FYI, there’s now a detailed map of the Skoura palm grove. Since ads aren’t allowed here, feel free to DM me...
FYI, there’s now a detailed map of the Skoura palm grove. Since ads aren’t allowed here, feel free to DM me...
Good evening Marie Claude,
I agree with you on all the positive points about the guesthouse La Palmeraie.
Ghizlane is an amazing cook and Mohammed is a very interesting guide. We saw so many things thanks to him, with a big highlight being the nighttime irrigation of the palm grove in his company.
On the last day, we found out there was a cobbler in Skoura who made custom babouches, but it was too late... what a shame...
Returning to France was tough—a real wake-up call, just as François predicted...
The snow wasn’t far off, and it was difficult.
I hope everything went well for you.
Elodie
ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves
Hey Elodie,
It was really tough for us too, that cold Paris region weather... I'll send you the photo you asked for as soon as I can—I'm already swamped! The other photos are already up on the site; you can check them out. They bring back such great memories!
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
From Skoura, there are plenty of lovely walks besides the Dades Valley and gorges, which already take a full day.
We enjoyed strolling through the palm grove, visiting a large Kasbah in Skoura, heading to the almond tree valley (gorgeous this season and no tourists, direction Toundount north of Skoura), and the village of Boutharar by taking the road starting from El-Kelaâ M'Gouna. A little tip: even if you have a GPS, a good Michelin map bought in France isn’t useless—the GPS doesn’t recognize small roads or tracks.
Happy hiking!
MC
For your info, there’s now a detailed map of Skoura’s palm grove. Since ads aren’t allowed here, feel free to DM me...
Hello Christophe!
I’d love to get your map! I’ll be in Morocco from April 6th to 18th with my backpack! The goal is to do some short treks and get lost in the Atlas... I wanted to do Toubkal solo without a guide, but I think I’ll decide on the spot depending on the snow conditions. If you’ve got any tips, itineraries, or must-see off-the-beaten-path spots, don’t hesitate!
Thanks for sharing.
Guillaume
For your info, there’s now a detailed map of Skoura’s palm grove. Since ads aren’t allowed here, feel free to DM me...
Hello Christophe!
I’d love to get your map! I’ll be in Morocco from April 6th to 18th with my backpack! The goal is to do some short treks and get lost in the Atlas... I wanted to do Toubkal solo without a guide, but I think I’ll decide on the spot depending on the snow conditions. If you’ve got any tips, itineraries, or must-see off-the-beaten-path spots, don’t hesitate!
Thanks for sharing.
Guillaume
there are 9 rooms in the palm grove
good luck
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
A really beautiful blog full of photos taken during a stay in Skoura...
http://b-by-bel.blogspot.com/2013/03/watercolor-course-at-skoura-authentik.html
A really beautiful blog full of photos taken during a stay in Skoura...
http://b-by-bel.blogspot.com/2013/03/watercolor-course-at-skoura-authentik.html
After reading your blog, I’m a bit worried about crossing the Atlas Mountains to reach Ouarzazate and Skoura. Is it really as dangerous as you say? I hadn’t come across that kind of warning before...
After reading your blog, I’m a bit worried about crossing the Atlas Mountains to reach Ouarzazate and Skoura. Is it really as dangerous as you say? I hadn’t come across that kind of warning before...
A beautiful blog full of photos taken during a stay in Skoura...
http://b-by-bel.blogspot.com/2013/03/watercolor-course-at-skoura-authentik.html
After reading your blog, I’m a bit worried about crossing the Atlas Mountains to reach Ouarzazate and Skoura. Is it really as dangerous as you say? I hadn’t come across that kind of feedback before...
Hi, That’s the blog of a friend who’s really into 4x4s, and she’d made the trip from Tangier to Skoura in a vehicle that had a minor issue—so she probably had a bit of an adrenaline rush... The road between Marrakech and Ouarzazate isn’t brand new, it’s full of reckless drivers, but it’s not necessarily much more dangerous than plenty of others... In any case, nothing that should put off a "normal" driver. Have a great trip...
After reading your blog, I’m a bit worried about crossing the Atlas Mountains to reach Ouarzazate and Skoura. Is it really as dangerous as you say? I hadn’t come across that kind of feedback before...
Hi, That’s the blog of a friend who’s really into 4x4s, and she’d made the trip from Tangier to Skoura in a vehicle that had a minor issue—so she probably had a bit of an adrenaline rush... The road between Marrakech and Ouarzazate isn’t brand new, it’s full of reckless drivers, but it’s not necessarily much more dangerous than plenty of others... In any case, nothing that should put off a "normal" driver. Have a great trip...
really nothing to worry about, the road is magnificent! As with any mountain road, you just need to be careful...
Lots of friendly trucks let us pass....
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
Good evening Marie Claude,
I agree with you on all the positive points about the guesthouse La Palmeraie.
Ghizlane is an amazing cook and Mohammed is a very interesting guide. We saw so much thanks to him, with a big highlight being the nighttime irrigation of the palm grove in his company.
On the last day, we found out there was a cobbler who made custom babouches in Skoura, but it was too late... what a shame...
Returning to France was tough, a real wake-up call as François had predicted...
The snow wasn’t far off—it was difficult.
I hope everything went well for you.
Elodie
Good evening Elodie, I’m planning a stop in Skoura... at the guesthouse La Palmeraie. I just read your post: the nighttime irrigation of the palm grove... Could we learn a bit more about it? Thanks, and looking forward to reading your reply.
Good evening Elodie, I’m planning a stop in Skoura... at the guesthouse La Palmeraie. I just read your post: the nighttime irrigation of the palm grove... Could we learn a bit more about it? Thanks, and looking forward to reading your reply.
To ensure everyone gets their share, since water is scarce and precious, there’s a schedule—each person gets no more than 3 hours in a set time slot on rotation. In this case, it was supposed to be between 10 PM and midnight, or 11 PM and 1 AM, I can’t remember exactly, and we didn’t take part ourselves. It’s tough—you have to move fast and bring headlamps, plus shovels to open or close the channels where the water flows (coming from the springs).
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
Hi there,
I took a little time to reply, but as Mohammed would say, "a man in a hurry is already dead"...
so, watering the garden:
we had visited the palm grove one morning with Mohammed. He explained the water-sharing system, the irrigation canals, etc., to us.
One evening after dinner, he tells us it’s his turn for water, that he’s going to water his garden, and he invites us to come along.
And off we go!! His water turn lasts from 10 PM to midnight. We grab our headlamps and head into the palm grove to open the irrigation canals that correspond to his plots. Then we head to the first plot, and there we sit in the field and wait for the water to arrive (all under a stunning starry sky). We don’t really understand why we have to wait for the water, but we wait... and after a while, there it is! And then it begins! The miracle of water! The water follows the small furrow dug along the edge of the field to flood a first section at the far end. Once that part is flooded, we quickly plug the entrance and open the passage to another section of the field, and so on until the entire field is flooded. This brings us to around 11:30 PM, and we think we’re going to head back to sleep—but no, that was just the warm-up...
We quickly close the canal at the entrance of this field and rush to another field where a small furrow runs through the plot, this time from olive tree to olive tree (no need to waste water by irrigating the whole field; we focus on what’s essential). Mohammed shows us the path the water will take and explains which canal we’ll need to block so the water then takes the second small path into the other part of the field, and then... he heads off to the other side of the palm grove to close another canal and open the one that will bring water to the garden by the house. Our mission is to close off the first furrow once the water has reached the end and open the second passage. And we wait patiently for the water to arrive...
The two of us (me and my partner) watch the journey of this water, so precious here, and cross our fingers that we’ve understood what Mohammed asked of us so we can rise to the occasion...
Mohammed returns—mission accomplished for us!
We head toward the house and do the same thing for the garden.
And just like that, it’s 1:30 AM. We’ve finished "watering" the garden and have truly grasped the sacred nature of water...
Thank you, Mohammed, for sharing this moment with us.
ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves
Hi Elodie,
Your explanations are great—so authentic!
Did you get the two photos of the Kasbah with Ghizlane?
aichlo
Sans projet de voyage le quotidien est sans couleur!
Mes carnets de voyages: http://cojal.canalblog.com/
Mon blog sur Paris, une photo par jour: http://parisvillage.canalblog.com/
Hello,
I took a little time to reply, but as Mohammed would say, "a hurried man is already dead..."
so, watering the garden:
we had visited the palm grove one morning with Mohammed. He had explained the water-sharing system, the irrigation canals, etc...
One evening after dinner, he tells us it’s his water turn, that he’s going to water his garden, and he offers for us to go with him.
And off we go!! His water turn lasts from 10 PM to midnight. We grab our headlamps and head into the palm grove to open the irrigation canals corresponding to his plots. Then we head to the first plot, and there we sit in the field and wait for the water to arrive (all under a stunning starry sky). We don’t really understand why we have to wait for the water, but we wait... and after a while, there it is! And then it starts! The miracle of water! The water follows the small furrow dug at the edge of the field to flood a first section at the far end. Once that part is flooded, we quickly plug the entrance and open the passage to another section of the field, and so on until the entire field is flooded. This brings us to around 11:30 PM, and we think we’re going to head back to sleep, but no—this was just the warm-up... We quickly close the canal at the entrance of this field and rush to another field where a small furrow runs through the plot, this time from olive tree to olive tree (no need to waste water by irrigating the whole field; we focus on what’s essential). Mohammed shows us the path the water will take and explains which canal we’ll need to block so the water then takes the second small path in the other part of the field, and then... he heads off to the other side of the palm grove to close another canal and open the one that will bring water to the house’s garden. Our mission is to close off the first furrow once the water has reached the end and open the second passage. And we wait patiently for the water to arrive... The two of us (with my partner) watch the journey of this water, so precious here, and cross our fingers, hoping we’ve understood what Mohammed asked of us so we can rise to the occasion...
Mohammed returns—mission accomplished for us!
We head toward the house and do the same thing for the garden.
And there we are, it’s 1:30 AM, we’ve finished "watering" the garden, and we’ve truly grasped the sacred nature of water...
Thank you, Mohammed, for sharing this moment with us.
To be even more precise about this beautiful experience, we can note that "water rights" are divided among families over 24 hours, and within each family, time slots are then allocated. Nighttime slots are preferred, but why?
Several reasons: In summer, the heat... and the fact that crops also prefer to avoid the magnifying effect of water in full sun. The nighttime silence, which allows you to "listen" for any potential issues in the circuit. The fact that during the day, outside of allocated water rights, some people divert the circuit for a few minutes to water a few square meters, which disrupts the schedule—at night, they don’t do that. And probably other, more personal reasons...
To be even more precise about this beautiful experience, we can note that "water rights" are divided among families over 24 hours, and within each family, time slots are then allocated. Nighttime slots are preferred, but why?
Several reasons: In summer, the heat... and the fact that crops also prefer to avoid the magnifying effect of water in full sun. The nighttime silence, which allows you to "listen" for any potential issues in the circuit. The fact that during the day, outside of allocated water rights, some people divert the circuit for a few minutes to water a few square meters, which disrupts the schedule—at night, they don’t do that. And probably other, more personal reasons...
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More discussions
Hi there, 🙂
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Thanks
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Thanks
Hi, I'm looking for a taxi from Dakhla airport to downtown Dakhla.
If you know a contact ?????
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for accommodation in Tabarka for 3 nights in mid-July. I’m only finding offers for large hotel complexes.
We’re looking for something more authentic, like a guesthouse or similar.
I could use some help because I’m not finding anything like that.
Have a great day!
I'm looking for accommodation in Tabarka for 3 nights in mid-July. I’m only finding offers for large hotel complexes.
We’re looking for something more authentic, like a guesthouse or similar.
I could use some help because I’m not finding anything like that.
Have a great day!
Hi there,
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Is it complicated?
Do I need an international driver’s permit?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
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Any recommendations?
Have a great day
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Any recommendations?
Have a great day
It's all in the title.
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
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1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
I know there are experts on this forum.
Thanks in advance
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
I know there are experts on this forum.
Thanks in advance
Hello,
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I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency. If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling. We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback! Safe travels to all, Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
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hi,
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Has anyone done this before and can point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance.
have a good day
I’m planning to take the SETE-TANGER ferry with my car.
No agency in my town sells tickets.
Has anyone done this before and can point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance.
have a good day
Good evening, everyone!
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier. Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel... Day 3: Stop in Tetouan Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!) Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad) After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF). Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier. Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel... Day 3: Stop in Tetouan Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!) Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad) After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF). Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
Hi everyone! :)
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
As-salamu alaykum!
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
hi there
we’re heading to Hammamet in a few months
what would you recommend visiting for a week?
best regards
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Thanks in advance.
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!