Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Mes voyages: (des villes Européennes), Québec (beaucoup), Tunisie, Suède, Guadeloupe, Mexique, Thaïlande, Italie, Argentine, Inde, Sri Lanka, Indonésie, Corse (3x), Jordanie, Vietnam, Éthiopie, Andalousie, Rwanda, Seattle/Portland/Hawaï, Venise, Sicile, Réunion et le prochain Cap Vert!
Hi Jeanne.
First off, Montagnard isn’t “selling” anything 😉, just sharing his inevitably subjective take.
The good news is that (from what I’ve seen) you’ve picked the “right” islands, and chance is taking you to São Vicente during Carnival—which must be something to experience!
For logistics, I think Marie (who should pop in soon—she never leaves anyone stranded in Cape Verde) will give you better advice than I can.
Personally, for 11 days—especially if you’re tired—I’d stick with the SV/SA combo. There’s so much to do, even more if you’re hiking!
Skip Carnival or not? If there’s zero accommodation available, it comes down to how much of an adventurer you are. Not everything’s on booking platforms…
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hello,
I’m currently in Cape Verde (Santo Antão).
Overall, I agree with Montagnard. It’s best to limit yourself to Santo Antão and São Vicente. As for us, we stayed 15 days on Santo Antão and would’ve happily stayed even longer—this island is stunning, and there are so many spectacular spots for hiking.
Worth noting: Ribeira das Patas, Alto Mira, Bordeira (along the ridges, the most spectacular), as well as the Norte, Tarrafal de Monte Trigo, Cha de Igreja to Ponta do Sol along the coast, Janela, Xoxo, Rabo Curto, and the Paul Valley with 3 or 4 hikes to do, including Pico da Cruz, the Cova crater, and the valley loop.
Accommodation isn’t an issue—you can find places to stay everywhere. Most lodgings aren’t listed on booking platforms. Yesterday, we even got to see a small Carnival parade in Cabo de Ribeira in the Paul Valley (a rehearsal for the real Carnival).
Have a great trip!
São Vicente didn’t leave us with a memorable souvenir—we stopped there on the way to and from Santo Antão.
On Santiago, only the Assomada region in the center of the island appealed to us... Tarrafal at a push for 1 or 2 days, but avoid weekends...
Santo Antao is truly amazing! A natural park all by itself. The relief, the diversity of landscapes, rural life, "natural" villages, the kindness of the locals, a hiker's paradise... with the freedom to go wherever you want without paying an entrance fee!! It's even better than I imagined. For how much longer? There’s a rumor about an airport being built in Ponta Do Sol (only an old abandoned runway remains).
We’re on our way back: we planned 3 nights in Mindelo to cover a possible ferry cancellation and 2 nights in Sal to cover a possible domestic flight cancellation.
PS: We ended the trip with 4 nights at Aldea Panoramica. Our knees are a bit tired 😅, but the best accommodation was Quinta Cochete, isolated in the heart of nature in Ribeira dos Patas 😊
Thanks Jean-Michel for your feedback—it should reassure Jeanne about her choice! 😊
I can’t wait to hear your thoughts on Sal, and to find out if I’m the one ruining everyone’s travel plans… 😅
As for the airport, I think it’s more of a never-ending story—they’ve already tried once… But Marie might know more.
Have a great end to your trip!
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Thanks to both of you!
I know it’s the overwhelm making me doubt.
I know I’ll need to let go and go with the flow.
I know that unexpected surprises and/or hassles often lead to joy (or not 😄).
I know not everything can be planned.
Thanks for reminding me of that!
I’m following your discussions for ideas and I’ll decide based on how I feel in the moment 🙂
Mes voyages: (des villes Européennes), Québec (beaucoup), Tunisie, Suède, Guadeloupe, Mexique, Thaïlande, Italie, Argentine, Inde, Sri Lanka, Indonésie, Corse (3x), Jordanie, Vietnam, Éthiopie, Andalousie, Rwanda, Seattle/Portland/Hawaï, Venise, Sicile, Réunion et le prochain Cap Vert!
Dang, Djalma, that username rang a bell!
And checking my old messages (we all try to get our brains back into travel mode however we can), sure enough, we already swapped tips about destinations over 10 years ago. 😎
Mes voyages: (des villes Européennes), Québec (beaucoup), Tunisie, Suède, Guadeloupe, Mexique, Thaïlande, Italie, Argentine, Inde, Sri Lanka, Indonésie, Corse (3x), Jordanie, Vietnam, Éthiopie, Andalousie, Rwanda, Seattle/Portland/Hawaï, Venise, Sicile, Réunion et le prochain Cap Vert!
In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo on Booking.com.
There are plenty of availabilities. In February, we’re staying there now—it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast, and the owner is always around and super friendly. He’s even going to show us around the island...
In Mindelo, check out Oia Mindelo guesthouse on Booking—there are plenty of rooms available in February. We’re staying there now, and it’s really nice, with a great little breakfast. The owner is always around and super friendly; he’s even going to show us around the island...
Thanks Jean-Michel!!!!
I just booked for my first night so the owner can help me (I’m gonna cancel my other reservation at a hostel).
But no availability at this place during Carnival, though 😅
On Booking, there are only 2 options (and one is totally out of the question for me🙈)
Mes voyages: (des villes Européennes), Québec (beaucoup), Tunisie, Suède, Guadeloupe, Mexique, Thaïlande, Italie, Argentine, Inde, Sri Lanka, Indonésie, Corse (3x), Jordanie, Vietnam, Éthiopie, Andalousie, Rwanda, Seattle/Portland/Hawaï, Venise, Sicile, Réunion et le prochain Cap Vert!
If you book at Oia Mindelo, ask for a room that doesn’t face the street—it’s quieter. The owner picks up guests from the ferry (free) or the airport (1000 escudos) and does the same for the return trip. He also organizes island tours with his car + a stop at a restaurant for 3000 escudos (27 €).
You made a great choice. The same thing happened to me in 2024—a last-minute trip to Cape Verde that coincided with Carnival season. Honestly, the pre-Carnival vibe is everywhere across the islands. Given your timeframe, yes, you can focus on São Vicente and Santo Antão. It’s the perfect balance of nature and culture with minimal time spent on transport.
I wrote a detailed recap of my trip in Cape Verde, with useful addresses and tips that might help. There’s an article for each island and one specifically about the Mindelo Carnival and the Mandingas.
Have an amazing trip!
Voyager Autrement est Possible
Un Voyage à votre image
Voyages en immersion et éco-responsables
Hi Jeanne,
I really think that with 13 days, it's best to "stick" to SV and SA—it’s a great combo!
It’s true that tourism is booming right now, with hotels popping up left and right every day. Today, the Four Points in Mindelo opened with 216 rooms!! Ughhh! Yesterday, a huge cruise ship was in Mindelo, and tourists were parading along the waterfront nonstop!! Ughhh again!!!
And during Carnival, it’s packed to the brim! Check Airbnb too, for example.
Still, I don’t think you should stress too much—it might be tough, but I think you’ll find somewhere to stay if you’re not too picky either way. That means being okay with something a little "rough" or, on the flip side, paying a bit more if nothing else is available.
On Santo Antão, it’ll be easier to find accommodation anyway.
Sure, Mindelo’s Carnival is something else… but in my opinion, it’s not a must-see. Though that’s just my take—I’m not a big fan of crowds and noise. ;O)))
And to answer the others: rumors about a new airport… we hear them, but it’d probably be near Porto Novo. Nothing concrete yet, though. I’m crossing my fingers it never happens. There’s already one in SV, and the ferry ride to SA is part of the fun and adventure (even me saying that, and I get seasick!!! Hahaha!). SA is worth the effort!!!
Happy planning,
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Yes, yesterday we saw hundreds of cruise passengers disembark from a huge ship docked in the port of Mindelo. Impressive!
I’d never seen anything like it before. A lot of obese people, others more or less disabled... probably the only way for these folks to travel. They headed to the Belém Tower and the fish market before swarming back to their ship.
Right now, there are also a lot of groups—restaurants along the waterfront are often fully booked... Two nights in a row, we got to watch a Carnival rehearsal right near our accommodation!
Tomorrow, we’re off to Sal Island before heading home. 😅
I have very little regard (that’s an understatement) for cruises—I see them as the fast food of travel—but that’s not the point here…
On our way back from South Africa, we slept and dined at Casa Café, near Praça Dom Luís, and really enjoyed the food and the atmosphere.
Enjoy your last authentic evening—tomorrow, you won’t be disappointed 😏
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
After a late arrival in Sal due to a 5-hour delay with Cabo Verde Airlines, we stayed at "Kleine Schweiz" (Little Switzerland!) or another name: Lafayette!
A large, comfortable, and well-equipped building near Espargos in the middle of an arid plain, 2 km from town and only accessible by 4x4.
As we walked closer to the "outskirts" during an evening stroll, we came across piles of rubbish, rubble, and dilapidated buildings... Not the best environment.😕
Our friendly hostess took us for an evening by the sea (Murdeira) at a Caribbean pirate-style restaurant with a fun beach show.
This morning, collectivos to Santa Maria! Not really disappointed since we kind of expected it.
It’s true that back home, there are plenty of fans of La Grande Motte or Palavas-les-Flots... it’s a bit like that but uglier. Still, I struggle to understand why it keeps developing—you see new constructions everywhere.
On São Vicente, we saw lots of abandoned hotels and restaurants due to a lack of tourists and water shortages. Here, apparently, that’s not the case. One day in this setting will be enough for us. Our hostess was supposed to take us to see the Blue Eye, but a last-minute issue prevented her. Too bad.
Hello,
This discussion interests me because I’m planning to visit Cape Verde and I only speak French.
I’m reading the replies to learn more about the islands.
Have a great weekend.
AFRIQUE , mon AFRIQUE
L'AFRIQUE des fiers guerriers dans les savanes ancestrales
AFRIQUE que chante ma grande mère au bord de son fleuve lointain...
Un peuple sans identité culturelle, c’est un peuple qui navigue dans l’obscurité.
In our last four accommodations, it was probably just a coincidence, but all our hosts spoke French fluently. 🙂
PS: Regarding Sal, when I wrote my message, we hadn’t seen everything yet... Even though it’s very touristy like in Santa Maria, part of that long beach is still nice. The architecture isn’t so bad in some areas, and for windsurfing and kite surfing fans, it’s an ideal spot—there’s always wind.
And there goes Jean-Michel, giving in to the siren call of mass tourism and off to enjoy Sal! 😉
Just teasing, of course—Sal *can* have some nice sides, especially its huge beaches.
Okay, the architecture didn’t exactly blow me away 😛
No water shortages on Sal (though there are apparently a few outages in peak season), thanks to two seawater desalination plants on the island (like on most of the Cape Verde islands, actually)
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi there!
No worries about the language in Cape Verde—lots of people speak French, which was even taught in schools.
Feel free to check out my travel journal for my thoughts on this magical country!
Actually, when the collectivo dropped us off in Santa Maria, we walked north toward a small cape past the beach. On our way back, we first saw piles of rubble and some tacky new constructions—what a shock! Then we settled in the only shady spot under a few palm trees. Later in the afternoon, we walked the entire beach (it’s huge) and discovered some pretty nice hotel residences and pleasant neighborhoods. Since we haven’t windsurfed in ages, the beach isn’t really our thing, but it did help us fill a day that would’ve been hard to occupy otherwise—aside from visiting the salt flats (meh) or the windy Blue Eye, which our very friendly hostess (who had already taken us for free in her 4x4 to Murdeira, where we’d had a great evening) showed us. She also picked us up at the restaurant exit in Espargos because no taxi would risk off-roading at night to get to her guesthouse in the middle of nowhere!
Hello Jean-Michel,
I arrived yesterday and followed your advice—I’d booked a room with Antonio... who then offered to let me stay at his aunt’s place during Carnival (she lives in the building next door 😊 and is in Dakar right now).
So after a relaxed arrival (I basically napped on Mindelo Beach) and today’s island tour with Antonio and a couple of 77-year-old English lovebirds 😍 (and yeah, Bruno, São Vicente *is* a rock, but it’s got a certain charm), I’m heading to Santo Antão tomorrow.
I’ll be back on the 16th and the 17th for Fat Tuesday, but since no domestic flights are available, I think I’ll return to Santo Antão on the 18th and come back on the 21st to catch my return flight on the 22nd.
I figured I’d head toward Ponto do Sol/Ribeira Grande for "Phase 1" and Tarrafal for "Phase 2."
I’ve got the night to decide where I’ll sleep 😅.
We’ll see 😊.
Mes voyages: (des villes Européennes), Québec (beaucoup), Tunisie, Suède, Guadeloupe, Mexique, Thaïlande, Italie, Argentine, Inde, Sri Lanka, Indonésie, Corse (3x), Jordanie, Vietnam, Éthiopie, Andalousie, Rwanda, Seattle/Portland/Hawaï, Venise, Sicile, Réunion et le prochain Cap Vert!
Hi!
Yes, the tour of Mindelo is worth it... but that's about it. I really liked the oasis part where you feel like you're in southern Morocco.
If you want info on hikes in Santo Antão, no problem—we did 8 or 9 in different spots! One was super impressive: Bordeira do Norte starting from Ribeira das Patas. You can stay at Quinta Cochete (one of the most beautiful places and accommodations) or with Suzeth or Amadeus.
For some relaxation, Tarrafal de Monte Trigo is really great and always sunny, unlike the eastern part, which is often foggy! Stay at Mar e tranquilidade at the village entrance by the (deserted) beach—great buffet dinners and unlimited punch on the beach terrace starting at 6 PM! Hic... One downside: the showers are cold to save water, but since it's warm, it’s okay...
PS: Two spots for easy hikes in green valleys: Paul Valley and Ribeira Grande Valley. Get dropped off at Xoxo (near Vila das Pombas) and hike up to Rabo Curto—several loops possible in each valley.
PS: Correction, Xoxo is in the Ribeira da Torre valley—you get there from Ribeira Grande... You can stay in that town or better yet, at the start of the hike at Casa Xoxo. (But reviews aren’t great for the accommodation 😕). We got a taxi to take us from Ribeira Grande to Casa Xoxo.
From Xoxo: Hike to Rabo Curto—it’s a really beautiful route, and the valley is even more stunning than Paul’s. There are several possible routes once you reach Rabo Curto... The shortest loop involves taking the steep downhill path to the right just as you enter the village (don’t miss it, or it’s an extra 5km).
For the Paul Valley, you can stay at Luz d’Sol in Cidade das Pombas, right at the bottom near the sea—great welcome in French. Or, much better but pricier and often fully booked, at the top of the valley: L’Aldea Panoramica in Cabo de Ribeira. It’s really great (accommodation and meals included)! They also welcome guests in French. The advantage here is that you can "reserve" without leaving a deposit—just fill out the form on their website or call them (in French).
If you stay at the bottom, you can explore the valley in more or less detail.
If you stay at L’Aldea (Cabo de Ribeira), you can do round trips:
1. Pico da Cruz
2. Cova Crater
Or, even better but tougher: a 1200m elevation gain for the full loop (we did it!). Climb to Pico da Cruz, then take the paved path/road to Cova Crater, and descend back to Cabo de Ribeira... The descent this way is less steep than the other direction!
Still about hiking. If you're staying in Ponta do Sol, there's of course the famous coastal hike to Cruzinha..
We did it the other way around, coming from Cha de Igreja/Cruzinha..
In my opinion, the last part closest to Ponta do Sol is really worth it..
So you can get a taxi to take you to the start of the hike from Ponta do Sol (paved road) and then walk to Fontainhas and Formiguinhas, then come back the same way, which will save you a long taxi ride (or boat!) back if you do the full hike—it goes up and down a lot in both directions...
We stayed at Musica do Mar; the accommodation is decent by the sea but close to a bar that's busy until late at night.. so if you're a light sleeper..
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?