Cycling the Cotentin Peninsula
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
KR
Hi everyone, In early April, I’m redoing the Vélo Francette (La Rochelle to Ouistreham), and then I’d like to cycle along the Cotentin Peninsula (which I don’t know at all), follow the coast up to Cherbourg, and then head back down to at least Saint-Malo. I’d love to know if it’s pleasant for cycling—are the roads nice? Not too windy? What are the must-see spots? Any great campsites? All your tips and advice are more than welcome, and I thank you in advance.
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
MA Mazzzz Veteran ·
Hello everyone, In early April, I’m doing the Vélo Francette route (La Rochelle to Ouistreham), then I’d like to cycle along the Cotentin coast (which I don’t know at all), follow the seaside to Cherbourg, and then head back down to at least Saint-Malo. I’d love to know if it’s pleasant for cycling—are the roads nice? Not too windy? What are the must-see spots? Any great campsites? All your tips and advice are welcome, and thank you in advance!

I know the Cotentin well since I have a lot of family on the peninsula (especially in Cherbourg). Could you clarify what you’re looking for—are you camping, for example?—so I can give you the best advice...
KR Krinette Regular ·
Hey Mazzzz, Yeah, still doing camping and the occasional bivouac! I don’t have any specific expectations, but I really don’t want to miss any "must-see" spots. I’m also wondering about the things I mentioned in my first post—roads, traffic, lots of wind (especially by the coast, which I’m guessing is a yes!), and good campgrounds. Tell me everything!!!!! Have a great evening
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
MA Mazzzz Veteran ·
Hi Martine, The Cotentin is a bit off the tourist trail and retains an extraordinary wild character—it often reminds me of Ireland with a similar climate. The coast is quite flat from Carentan (a very wild marshland area) up to the Val de Saire. The interesting spots start from Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, Barfleur, and the northern coast toward Cherbourg. The coastal road is stunning. To the north, its capital, Cherbourg, isn’t very interesting (former military port), but heading west, the coastal road to Nez de Jobourg is magnificent (moorland landscapes). The port of Goury, Omonville-la-Rogue, and other spots are must-sees. After Cap de Jobourg, the coast features very long beaches with beautiful dunes (Vauville, Biville, Flamanville, Carteret). Further down, Saint-Germain-sur-Ay is really worth the detour. Further south, Agon-Coutainville and Avranches are lovely towns. As for the roads, they’re all beautiful through the hedgerows of the Norman bocage—just take any small road, and you’ll have peace and quiet. You’ll find plenty of small, quiet, and friendly campsites, especially if you move slightly inland from the coast. Since tourists aren’t exactly swarming the area, wild camping in the dunes is totally doable.

It’s a magnificent and peaceful region, even at the height of summer. As for the climate, it can be fantastic—sunny and mild—or rainy and windy.
HA Hasahi Regular ·
Hi there, For me, it’ll be the reverse route—you can check out our day-by-day itinerary here:

http://cyclonomades.free.fr/index.html

From Nantes to Mont Saint-Michel, I’ll follow the Chemin des Miquelots, but the stretch along the Nantes-Brest Canal to Redon is smoother, and the ride back via Langon and Rennes along the Vilaine is peaceful and pretty. Then, I’ll take the Ille-et-Rance Canal up to Saint-Malo. The opposite direction for you. In June, the campsite in Saint-Médard is great—we spent a night there alone, with dinner at the picnic table under the big cherry trees (they were loaded!), all for 3 €.
BO Bolbatre147 Regular ·
Hi,

You can draw inspiration from the "bronze rays" of the FFCT Normandy region, which start from Caen. There are some great routes designed for cycle touring, combining sport and heritage discovery. Highly recommended!

http://www.normandie-cyclotourisme.com/pages/randonner-a-velo/les-rayons-normands.html

Michel
MSC
KR Krinette Regular ·
Hello everyone and a big thank you to all of you for all the very interesting information—I’ve taken good note of it! I’m really excited to discover the Cotentin region (thanks Pascal for the details). Thanks to everyone!
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
OL Olivier50 Globetrotter ·
The most beautiful section of La Hague is the southwest part between Cap de la Hague (Goury) and Vauville. It passes through the Ecalgrain Bay, Nez de Jobourg, Anse des Moulinets, the Herquemoulin descent, Les Treize Vents, and Les Pierres Pouquelées. You should take the small roads that line the coast, going up and down. The "descent" of Herquemoulin, which is actually an ascent in the direction you're considering, has an 18% grade. Of course, it's not for kilometers, but consider yourself warned. 😉
MA Mazzzz Veteran ·
The most beautiful section of La Hague is the southwest part between Cap de la Hague (Goury) and Vauville. It passes through the bay of Écalgrain, Nez de Jobourg, Anse des Moulinets, the Herquemoulin descent, Les Treize Vents, and Les Pierres Pouquelées. You should take the small roads that line the coast, going up and down. The "descent" of Herquemoulin, which is actually an ascent in the direction you're considering, has an 18% gradient. Of course, it's not for kilometers, but consider yourself warned.😉

Thanks, but personally, I’m not up for a hike in that area. That said, I share your love for La Hague—though a bit less for La Côte des Isles, but that’s another story...
AE Aesper Regular ·
Hi Martine,

Back in 2015, I’d planned to cycle in La Manche and had mapped out my route by mixing the circuit from: https://www.tourdemanche.com/ with some small coastal roads (Top 100 maps). The plan fell through because of rain and wind in mid-September 2015.

Happy planning! GS
KR Krinette Regular ·
Thanks so much, Aesper, for the link! I hope the weather isn’t too bad—early April is a bit early for warmth, but I can’t wait to get back on my "pannier-equipped" bike. Hope you’ll make your trip to the Cotentin soon! Have a great evening.
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
YD Ydso Regular ·
Hi Krinette, You’ve had lots of replies, and I agree with all of them. You were worried about the wind—it’s definitely something to consider on your trip. In April, Atlantic depressions can still be quite deep and generate strong SW to W winds. You shouldn’t underestimate NE winds either, which can blow for several days during high-pressure periods, sometimes quite forcefully. This might make the ride up the Cotentin’s west side, from Avranches to La Hague, a bit tricky. But since it’s all so unpredictable and the worst-case scenario isn’t guaranteed, you should just go for it—you’ll have a great time! As for wild camping, no problem at all. Happy trails.
OL Olivier50 Globetrotter ·
but personally I’m not up for a hike in the area

You’re really missing out—trails there are lovely, scenic, well-exposed, and (often but not always) sheltered from the wind. Just a few days ago (a gorgeous February afternoon), we started the ride in a parka and ended up in a T-shirt. As for the factory, you hardly notice it.
MA Mazzzz Veteran ·
but personally I’m not up for a hike in the area

You’re really missing out—trails there are lovely, steep, well-exposed, and (often but not always) sheltered from the wind. A few days ago (a gorgeous February afternoon), we started the walk in a parka and ended up in a T-shirt. As for the factory, you hardly notice it.

We must’ve misunderstood each other—I only said I’m not the one asking for info, that’s "krinette"’s thing. I’ve crisscrossed the Cotentin every which way, and I totally agree it’s a stunning region.
KR Krinette Regular ·
Hi there, a big thank you for all your replies—they’re going to be really helpful. Just reading them gives me a preview of what to expect, and I know I’m going to love it. Have a great day!
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
OL Olivier50 Globetrotter ·
I thought you were avoiding this area. 😉
LA Lalisette Regular ·
Hello there,

I’m reaching out because I’m currently planning my cycling holiday, and my Plan B is to do Caen to Saint-Malo with a train round trip from La Rochelle. While searching by keywords, I saw that you’ve already done this route! I’m thinking of doing Caen – Ouistreham – Cherbourg – visiting Mont Saint-Michel – Saint-Malo in about ten days, starting in early August. I’d love to get some info on campsites and their prices, as well as your impressions—like whether there’s a lot of elevation gain. We have basic bikes with gears.

Thanks for your reply, see you soon! Lise
lise
KR Krinette Regular ·
Hi Lalisette, Yes, I actually did this route—Rochefort, Caen, Ouistreham, around the Cotentin, Saint-Malo, in early April. There’s a bit more elevation gain to the north and west, but nothing too challenging. As for campgrounds, there are *tons* (in April, between 8–10 €). Best to avoid the ones by the sea—they’re pricier and noisier!

I preferred the northern part and the west coast—wilder and less touristy! The Cotentin is truly stunning. You can see Mont Saint-Michel long before you reach it; it’s so pretty! Then along the coast, Cancale, Saint-Malo—gorgeous!

Happy planning! PS: If you need it, I have a PDF list of campgrounds.

Martine
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
LA Lalisette Regular ·
Thanks for the reply!

I was wondering how long it took you? And I’d love the list of campgrounds. We average about 30 to 45 miles a day. Just booked the tickets!
lise
KR Krinette Regular ·
I don’t remember exactly how long it took me because I did the Vélo Francette route first before arriving in Caen. It seems like cycling around the Cotentin is about 450 km! If you’ve got 10 days for Caen to Saint-Malo, you’ll manage just fine! I’d be happy to send you the list of campgrounds, but I’ll need your email address (in a private message) because I can’t send PDFs through the site. See you soon
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
LA Lalisette Regular ·
Here’s the email: lisehassan@hotmail.fr
lise
LA Lalisette Regular ·
Hi there!

Thanks so much for the list of campsites! I usually travel with my guide—the "catalog" of campsites in France for routes that aren’t listed in other guides.

So, I’m scrapping the plan to cycle in Holland because it’s too complicated to get there by train, and there’s not enough space for bikes on trains anymore—you have to book early. For next summer, though! I already have the maps with the campsites 😊.

How about you—any cycling plans for the summer? Thanks again for the info! See you soon
lise
KR Krinette Regular ·
You’re all set to go then! No plans for now—I was away for 5 weeks in April and early May, then 15 days in June to do the GR 20 (on foot, backpacking!). I’m thinking of heading out again by bike in mid-August, but I don’t know where yet.
" J'aime les gens fêlés car a travers eux passe la lumiére ...... "
MA Marc029 Regular ·
Je viens de faire le tour du Cotentin à vélo. Attention, les campings sont souvent complet, il n'y a pas d' emplacement dédié aux randonneurs et certains ont des prix exorbitant. https://www.visugpx.com/8qDtdcPAJw

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